Skip to main content

Full text of "Switzerland : and the adjacent portions of Italy, Savoy, and the Tyrol : handbook for travellers"

See other formats


B£DEKER'S GUIDE BOOKS. 

GREAT BRITAIN, with 15 Maps, 30 Plans, and a Panorama 

Second Edition. 1890. 10 markj 

LONDON and its ENVIRONS, with 3 Maps and 15 Plans. 

Eighth Edition. 1892. 6 marks. 

THE. UNITED STATES, with an excursion into Mexico. 

With 17 Maps ;ind 02 Plans. 1893. 12 .marks. 

BELGIUM and HOLLAND, with 13 Maps and 20 Plans- 

Tenth Edition. 1891. 6 marks. 

THE RHINE from Rotterdam to Constance, with 39 

Maps and 21 Plans. Twelfth Edition. 1892. 7 marks. 

NORTHERN GERMANY, with 35 Maps and 54 Plans. 

Tenth E """ 



SOUTHER] 

3U Plans 

THE EAST 

oramas. 

GREECE, - 
1889. 

NORTHEB 

YENNA, 

CENTRAL 

a Panor 

souther: 

LlPARI 

Corfu 
NORWAY, 

15 Plan: 
PARIS AN] 



HDBERT W WOODRUFF 
LIBRARY 




8 marks. 
A, with 15 Maps and 

8 marks. 

12 Plans, and 7 Pan- 

8 maTks. 

Panorama of Athens. 
10 marks. 

iorn, Florence, Ra- 

i Edition. 1892. 8 marks. 

Maps, 33 Plans, and 
1893. 6 marks. 

Excursions to the 
Jardinia, Malta, and 

th Edition. 1893. 6 marks. 

RK, with 26 Maps, 
1892. 10 marks. 

)utes from London 

TO PARIS. Withll Maps and 31 Plans. Tenth Edition. 1891. 6 marks. 
NORTHERN FRANCE, with ( J Maps and 25 Plans. 1889. 

7 marks . 

19 Plans. 1891. 

9 marks . 

SWITZERLAND, and the adjacent Parts of Italy, 

SAVOY, and the TYROL, with 39 Maps, 12 Plans, and 12 Panoramas. 
Fifteenth Edition. 1893. 8 marks. 

LOWER EGYPT, with the Peninsula of Sinai, with 16 

Maps, 30 Hans, and 7 Views. Second Edition. 1885. 16 marks. 

UPPER EGYi'T, and Nubia as far as the Second Cata- 
ract. With 11 Maps and 26 Plans. 1892. 10 marks. 

PALESTINE and SYRIA, with 18 Maps, 43 Plans, a Pano- 
rama of Jerusalem, and 10 Views. 1876. 20 marks. 

CONVERSATION DICTIONARY in four languages: Eng- 

lish, French, German, Italian. 3 marks. 

THE TRAVELLER'S MANUAL OF CONVERSATION, in 

English, German, Fiiknch, and Italian. 3 marks. 



SOUTHERN FRANCE, with 14 Maps and 



MONEY TABLE. 

(Comp. p.xvil.) 
Approximate Equivalents. 



American 


English 




Swiss 


German 


Money 




Money 




Money 


Money 


Boll. 


Cts. 


L. 


S. 


D. 


Fr. 


Cent. 


*w« 


Pf. 


— 


1 


— 


— 


M* 





5 





4 


— 


»l* 


— 


— 


11|4 


— 


121/2 


— 


10 


— 


5 


— 


— 


2'2 


— 


25 


— 


20 


— 


10 


— 


— 


5 





50 





40 


— 


12i|s 


— 


— 


6'|4 


— 


62ij 2 


— 


50 


— 


20 


— 


— 


9s| 4 


1 


— 


— 


80 


— 


25 


— 


1 





1 


25 


1 


— 


— 


45 


— 


1 


8i| 2 


2 


15 


1 


75 


— 


50 


— 


2 


— 


2 


50 


2 


— 


— 


75 


— 


3 


— 


3 


75 


3 





1 


— 


— 


4 


— 


5 





4 





1 


25 


— 


5 


— 


6 


25 


5 





1 


50 


— 


6 


— 


7 


50 


6 





1 


75 


— 


7 


— 


8 


75 


7 


— 


2 


— 


— 


8 


— 


10 





8 


— 


2 


25 


— 


9 


— 


11 


25 


9 





2 


50 


— 


10 


— 


12 


50 


10 





3 


— 


— 


12 


— 


15 





12 





4 


— 


— 


16 


— 


20 





16 





5 


— 


1 


— 


— 


25 





20 





25 


— 


5 


— 


— 


125 





100 





125 


~ 


25 

1 




~ 


625 


~ 


500 


— 



SWITZERLAND 



AND THE ADJACENT PORTIONS OF 

ITALY, SAVOY, AND THE TYKOL 



HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS 



K. BAEDEKER 



With 39 Maps, 12 Plans, and 12 Panoramas 



FIFTEENTH EDITION 



LEIPSIO : KARL BAEDEKER, PUBLISHER. 

1893 



'Go, little ook, God send thee good passage, 
And specially let this be thy prayere 
Unto them all that thee will read or hear, 
Where thot art wrong, after their help to call, 
Thee to correct in any part or all.' 



PREFACE. 



Ihe object of the Handbook for Switzerland is to 
supply the traveller with all needful information, to point 
out the most interesting places and the best way of reach- 
ing them, to render him comparatively independent of 
the services of guides and others, and thus to enable him 
thoroughly to enjoy his tour in this magnificent country. 

With improved facilities for travel, the number of visi- 
tors to Switzerland has greatly increased of late years, 
and mountaineering ambition has been proportionally 
stimulated. Summits once deemed well-nigh inaccessible 
are now scaled annually by travellers from all parts of the 
world. The achievements of the modern Alpine clubs have 
dimmed the memory of De Saussure, Auldjo, and the other 
pioneers of these icy regions, and even ladies now fre- 
quently vie with the stronger sex in their deeds of daring. 

The Handbook is based on the Editor's personal ac- 
quaintance with the places described , most of which he 
has carefully and repeatedly explored. This edition, which 
corresponds with the twenty-fifth German edition, has 
been thoroughly revised, and furnished with the latest in- 
formation obtainable. Its contents are divided into Seven 
Sections (I. N. Switzerland; II. Lake of Lucerne and 
Environs, and St. Gotthard; III. Bernese Oberland; IV. 
W. Switzerland, Lake of Geneva, Lower Rhone Valley ; 

V. Savoy, the Valais, and the adjacent Italian Alps; 

VI. S.E. Switzerland, Grisons ; VII. Lakes of N. Italy), 
each of which may be separately removed from the book 
by the mountaineer or pedestrian who desires to minimise 
the bulk of his luggage. To each section is prefixed a 
list of the routes it contains, so that each forms an ap- 
proximately complete volume apart from the general table 
of contents or the general index. 

The Editor will highly appreciate any corrections or 
suggestions with which travellers may favour him. The in- 



vi PREFACE. 

formation already received from numerous correspondents, 
which he gratefully acknowledges, has in many instances 
proved most serviceable. 

The Maps and Plans, on which special care has been 
bestowed, are based on the Topographical Atlas of Switzer- 
land and on Dufours Map (p. xxiii), and revised with the 
aid of other recent authorities and from the editor's own 
experiences. 

Time Tables. The best Swiss publications are the 
'Kursbiicher (time-tables) of Burkli of Zurich and Krusi 
of Bale (50 c. each) , sold at most of the railway-stations. 

Heights are given in the text in English feet, on 
the maps in metres (1 Engl. ft. — 0.3048 metre; 1 metre 
= 3.281 Engl, ft., or about 3 ft. 3y 3 in.). — Distances 
on high-roads and railways are given in English miles ; 
while those on bridle-paths and mountain-routes are ex- 
pressed by the time which they usually take. The number 
of miles at the beginning of a paragraph denotes the dis- 
tance from the starting-point, while the distances from 
place to place are generally stated within brackets ; but 
on railway-routes the mileage is always reckoned from 
the starting-point. 

Hotels. Besides the first-class hotels, the Handbook 
mentions a number of the more modest inns also. The 
usual charges are stated in accordance with the Editor's 
own experience , or from the bills furnished to him by 
travellers. Hotel-charges, like carriage-fares and fees to 
guides, generally have an upward tendency, but an ap- 
proximate statement of these items will enable the trav- 
eller to form an estimate of his probable expenditure. 

To hotel-keepers, tradesmen, and others the Editor 
begs to intimate that a character for fair dealing towards 
travellers forms the sole passport to his commendation, 
and that advertisements of every kind are strictly exclud- 
ed from his Handbooks. 



CONTENTS. 



Page 

I. Plan of Tour, etc xii 

II. Travelling Expenses. Money xvii 

III. Hotels and Pensions xvii 

TV. Passports. Custom House xix 

V. "Walking Tours xix 

VI. Maps xxi 

Vn. Guides xxii 

Vm. Carriages and Horses xxiii 

IX. Diligences, Post Office, Telegraph ....... xxiii 

X. Railways xxv 

XI. History. Statistics xxvi 

Route I. Northern Switzerland. 

1. Bale 2 

2. From Bale to Bienne and Bern through the Miinsterthal 9 

3. From Bale to Bienne via, Olten and Soleure 12 

4. From Bale to Bern via, Herzogenbuchsee 17 

5. From Bale to Zurich 18 

6. From Bale to Lucerne 20 

7. From Olten to Waldshut via Aarau and Brugg 21 

8. From Bale to Schaffhausen and Constance 22 

9. The Falls of the Rhine 26 

10. From Friedrichshafen to Constance. Lake of Constance . 27 

11. From Rorschach to Constance and Winterthur (Zurich) . 30 

12. From Schaffhausen to Zurich 32 

13. Zurich and the Uetliberg 32 

14. From Zurich to Coire. Lakes of Zurich and Walenstadt 39 

15. From Zurich to Romanshorn and Friedrichshafen ... 46 

16. From Zurich to St. Gallen, Rorschach, and Lindau ... 47 

17. The Canton of Appenzell 51 

18. From Wyl through the Toggenburg to Buchs in the Valley 

of the Rhine 57 

19. From Zurich to Glarus and Linththal 59 

20. From Stachelberg to Altdorf. Klausen 63 

21. From Schwyz to Glarus over the Pragel 65 

22. From Glarus to Coire through the Sernf-Thal 67 

II. Lake of Lucerne and Environs. The St. Gotthard. 

23. From Zurich to Zug and Lucerne 70 

24. Lucerne 73 

25. Lake of Lucerne 78 



viii CONTENTS. 

Route Page 

26. The Rigi 85 

27. From Lucerne to Alpnach-Stad. Pilatus 92 

28. From Zug and Lucerne to Arth 95 

29. From Zurich via Wadensweil to Arth-Goldau. From 
Biberbriicke to Einsiedeln 97 

30. From Lucerne to Bellinzona. St. Gotthard Railway . . 100 

31. From Goschenen to Airolo ever the St. Gotthard . . . 109 

32. The Maderaner Thai 113 

33. From Goschenen to the Rhone Glacier. The Furka . . 116 

34. From Lucerne to Altdorf via Stans and Engelberg. The 
Surenen Pass 118 

35. From Lucerne over the Briinig to Meiringen and Brienz 
(Interlaken) 122 

36. From Meiringen to Engelberg. Engstlen-Alp. Joch Pass 125 

37. From Meiringen to Wasen. Susten Pass 127 

38. From Lucerne to Bern. Entlebuch. Emmenthal .... 129 

39. From Lucerne to Lenzburs (Aarau). The 'Seethal' 
Railway 131 

III. The Bernese Oberland. 

40. Bern 134 

41. From Bern to Thun 141 

42. The Niesen 143 

43. From Thun to Interlaken. Lake of Thun. St. Beatenberg 144 

44. Interlaken and Environs 148 

45. From Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen. Staubbach .... 154 

46. Upper Valley of Lauterbrunnen. Miirren. Schmadribach 156 

47. From Interlaken to Grindelwald. Wengernalp 160 

48. The Faulhorn 166 

49. From Grindelwald to Meiringen. Baths of Rosenlaui. 
Falls of the Reichenbach 168 

50. From Meiringen to Interlaken. Lake of Brienz .... 172 

51. The Giessbach 173 

52. From Meiringen to the Rhone Glacier. Grimsel .... 174 

53. From Spiez to Leuk over the Gemmi 179 

64. The Adelboden Valley 185 

55. From Gampel to Kandersteg. Lotschen Pass . . . 186 

56. From Thun to Sion over the Rawyl 188 

57. From Thun to Saanen through the Simmenthal .... 190 

IV. Western Switzerland. Lake of Geneva. Lower Valley of the 

Rhone. 

58. From Bern to Neuchatel 194 

59. From Neuchatel to Chaux-de-Fonds and Lode 197 

60. From Neuchatel to Pontarlier through the Val de Travers 199 

61. From Neuchatel to Lausanne 201 

62. From Bern to Lausanne (Vevey) 203 



CONTENTS. ix 

Route Page 

63. From Lausanne to Payerne and Lyss 206 

64. From Lausanne to Vallorbe and Pontarlier 208 

65. Geneva and Environs 209 

66. From Geneva to Martigny via Lausanne and Villeneuve. 
Lake of Geneva (North Bank) 221 

67. From Saanen to Aigle over the Col de Pillon 238 

68. From Bulle to Chateau d'Oex and Aigle 240 

69. From Bex to Sion. Pas de Cheville 243 

70. From Geneva to St. Maurice via, Bouveret. Lake of Geneva 
(South Bank). Val d'llliez 244 

V. Savoy, the Valais, and the adjacent Italian Alps. 

71. From Geneva via Culoz and Aix-les-Bains to Chambe'ry, 

and back via Annecy 252 

72. From Geneva to Chamonix 258 

73. Chamonix and Environs 264 

74. From Chamonix to Martigny over the Tete-Noire , or to 
Vernayaz via Triquent and Salvan 271 

75. From Martigny to Chamonix. Col de Balme 275 

76. From Chamonix to Courmayeur over the Col duBonhomme 

and the Col de la Seigne. Tour du Mont Blanc .... 277 

77. From Courmayeur to Aosta and Ivrea 282 

78. From Martigny to Aosta. Great St. Bernard 287 

79. From Martigny to Aosta over the Col de Fenetre. Val de 
Bagnes 293 

80. From Martigny to Domodossola over the Simplon . . . 295 

81. From the Rhone Glacier to Brig. The Eggishorn . . . . 303 

82. From Ulrichen to Domodossola. Gries Pass. Falls of the 
Tosa. Val Formazza 308 

83. The S. Valleys of the Valais between Sion and Turtmann 
(Val d'He'rens, Val d'Anniviers, Turtmann Valley) . . . 310 

84. From Visp to Zermatt 320 

85. From Piedimulera to Macugnaga, and over the Moro Pass 

to Saas and Visp 329 

86. From Macugnaga to Zermatt round Monte Rosa .... 334 

87. From Chatillon to Valtournanche and over the Theodule 
Pass to Zermatt 337 

VI. S.E. Switzerland. The Orisons. 

88. From Rorschach to Coire 341 

89. Ragatz and Pfafers 343 

90. Coire 347 

91. From Landquart to Davos through the Pratigau and to 
Schuls over the Fliiela Pass 349 

92. From Davos to Coire via Lenz (Landwasser Route). . . . 354 

93. From Coire to Davos through the Schanrlggthal. Arosa . 357 



x CONTENTS. 

Route Page 

94. From Coire to Goschenen. Oberalp 359 

95. From Disentis to Biasca. The Lukmanier 367 

96. From Coire to Spliigen. Via Mala 370 

97. From Spliigen to the Lake of Como 375 

98. From Spliigen to Bellinzona. Bernardino 377 

99. From Coire to the Engadine over the Albula Pass . . . 380 

100. From Coire to the Engadine over the Julier 382 

101. The Upper Engadine from the Maloja to Samaden . . . 387 

102. Pontresina and Environs 395 

103. From Samaden to Nauders. Lower Engadine .... 404 

104. From Samaden-Pontresina over the Bernina to Tirano 

and through the Valtellina to Colico 411 

105. From the Maloja to Chiavenna. Val Bregaglia .... 414 

106. From Tirano to Nauders over the Stelvio 416 

107. From Nauders to Bregenz over the Arlberg 421 

VII. The Italian Lakes. 

108. From Bellinzona to Lugano and Como (Milan) .... 425 

109. From Bellinzona to Locarno. Val Maggia 431 

110. Lago Maggiore. The Borromean Islands 435 

111. From Domodossola to Novara. Lake of Orta 441 

112. From Luino on Lago Maggiore to Menaggio on the Lake 

of Como. Lake of Lugano 446 

113. The Lake of Como 448 

114. From Como to Milan 455 

Index 459 



List of Maps. 

(Comp. Key Map after the General Index.) 

1. Map of Switzerland, before the title-page. 

2. District between Schaffhausen and Constance: RR. 8 9 11 12 
15, 16; between pp. 2G, 2T. ' ' ' ' 

3. Environs of Schaffhausen: RR. 8, 9, 12; p. 26. 

4. Lake of Constance : RR. 10, 11, 15, 16, 17, 107 ;' between pp. 28, 29. 

5. Lakes of Zurich and Zug : RR. 13, 14, 15, 23, 29 ; between pp. 38 39. 

6. Canton of Appenzell: RR. 14, 16, 17, 18, 88, 107; between pp 52 53 

7. Canton of Glarus: RR. 14, 19-22; between pp. 60, 61 

8. Todi District : RR. 19, 20, 32, 94 : between pp. 62, 63." 

9. Lake of Lucerne : RR. 6, 23-31, 34, 35 ; between dd. 78 7P 

10. Pilatds: R. 27; p. 79. FF ' °" 

11. Riqi : RR. 26, 26, 28 ; between pp. 86, 87. 

12. Environs of the St. Gotthard : RR. 30-34, 36. 37 52 81 at . v- 
tween pp. 104, 105. ' ' ' D1 ' a4 ' be " 

13. Loop-Tunnels of the St. Gotthard Railway: E. 30- p 104 

14. Trift District: RR. 31, 33, 37, 52, 79; between pp. 110, 111 ' 

15. Environs of Enqelbero: RR. 30, 34-37; between pp. 120 121 

16. Bernese Oberland: RE. 41-50, 53, 57; between pp. 148, lig. ' 

17. Environs of Interlaken: R. 44; p. 149. 

18. Environs of Grindelwald: RR. 44-50, 52; between pp. 162 163 



LIST OF MAPS. xi 

19. Environs of Kandersteg: RR. 46, 53-56; between pp. 180, 181. 

20. Lake of Geneva: RR. 62, 65-68, 70; between pp. 222, 223. 

21. Obmont Valleys: RR. 56, 66, 67, 69; between pp. 238, 239. 

22. Environs of Chamonix, Sixt, and Courmayeur : RR. 70, 72-76 ; be- 
tween pp. 258, 259. 

23. Mont Blanc District: RR. 72-76; between pp. 264, 265. 

24. Environs of the Great St. Bernard, from Martigny to Aosta : RR. 77, 
78-80, 83; between pp. 288, 289. 

25. Lower Vallet of the Rhone, from the Lake of Geneva to the Lotschen- 
Thal : RR. 53-56, 66-70, 80, 83 ; between pp. 296, 297. 

26. The Upper Valais : RR. 80-82, 84, 87 ; between pp. 298, 299. 

27. Aletsch District: RR. 81, 47, 52; between pp. 304, 305. 

28. Valaisian Alps: RR. 80, 83-87; between pp. 310, 311. 

29. Environs of Zermatt: RR. 83-86; between pp. 320, 321. 

30. Environs of Ragatz , the Pratigau and Montafon : RR. 88, 89, 91, 
107; between pp. 346, 347. 

31. Central Grisons Alps (from Coire and Davos to Samaden): RR. 91- 
94, 96, 99, 100, 103; between pp. 352, 353. 

32. Vorder-Rheinthal : RR. 94-96, 100 ; between pp. 360, 361. 

33. District from the Lukmanier to the Maloja : RR. 30, 95, 97, 98, 100, 
105; between pp. 374, 375. 

34. The Engadine and Valtellina : RR. 91-93, 99-106; between pp. 386, 387. 

35. Environs of Pontresina: RR. 101, 102, 104; between pp. 394, 395. 

36. The Lower Engadine : RR. 91-93, 99, 100, 103, 106; between pp. 404, 405. 

37. Lago Maggiore : RR. 80, 110-112 ; between pp. 434, 435. 

38. Lakes of Como and Lugano : RR. 30, 98, 108, 112, 113 ; pp. 448, 449. 

39. Key Map of Switzerland, after the Index. 



Panoramas and Views. 

1. From the Rigi-Kulm, between pp. 90, 91. 

2. From the Pilatus, between pp. 94, 95. 

3. From Bern, p. 135. 

4. From the Niesen, p. 148. 

5. From the Heimwehfluh, p. 150. 

6. From Murren, p. 157. 

7. From the Faolhorn, between pp. 166, 167. 

8. From the FlAgere, between pp. 268, 269. 

9. From the Eggishorn, between pp. 306, 307. 

10. From the Gorner Grat, between pp. 322, 323. 

11. From the Piz Langdard, between pp. 400, 401. 

12. From the Monte Generoso, between pp. 430, 431. 



FlanB of Towns. 

Bale, p. 2; Constance, p. 27; Zurich, p. 32; Lucerne, p. 78; Bern, p. 134; 

Neuchatel, p. 195; Geneva, p. 208; Lausanne, p. 224; Ragatz, p. 346; 

Coire, p. 347; Lugano, p. 426; Milan, p. 456. 

Abbreviations. 

R. = Room. ft. (') = Engl. foot. 1. = Left. 

B. = Breakfast. N. = North, northern, hr. = Hour. 

D. = Dinner. S. = South, southern, min. = Minute. 

L. = Light. E. = East, eastern. carr. = Carriage. 

A. = Attendance. W.= West, western. S.A.C. = Swiss Alpine Club. 

M. = English mile. r. = Right. C.A.I. = Italian Alpine Club. 

N.B. Everything specially worthy of note is indicated by an asterisk. 
With regard to distances, see Preface. 



I. Plan of Tour. 

Season of the Year. Distribution of Time. 

The traveller will save both time and money by planning his tour 
carefully before leaving home. The Handbook will help him to 
select the most interesting routes and the pleasantest resting- 
places, and point out how each day may be disposed of to the best 
advantage, provided the weather be favourable. 

Season. The great majority of tourists visit Switzerland between 
the middle of July and the end of September; but to those who 
wish to see the scenery, the vegetation, and particularly the Alpine 
flowers in perfection June is recommended as the most charming 
month in the year. For expeditions among the higher Alps the 
month of August is the best time. Even in summer snow occasion- 
ally falls among the higher regions , rendering the mountain-paths 
impassable ; but in ordinary seasons the snow disappears from the 
Rigi, the routes through the Bernese Oberland, and most of the 
higher Alpine carriage-routes at the beginning of June. On the 
other hand snow sometimes lies throughout the whole season on 
the Furka, the Grimsel, the Gemmi, etc. 

Distribution of Time. One Month, as the annexed plan shows, 
suffices for a glimpse at the most interesting parts of Switzerland. 
Bale, where the scenery is least interesting, is a good starting- 
point, but the traveller may find it. more convenient to begin with 
Geneva or Nenchatel. 

Days 
By railway from Bale to Neuhausen; visit the Falls of t/ie Rhine, by 

railway from Dachsen to Zurich (RE. 1, 8, 9, 12) 1 

Zurich and the Uetliberg (B. 13) 1 

From Ziirich by railway to Zug ; by steamboat to Arth; by railway 

to the Rigi-Kulm (EE. 23, 28, 26) 1 

From the Rigi by railway to Vitznau (or on foot to Waggis); by 

steamboat to Lucerne, and one day at Lucerne (RE. 26, 25, 24) 1 
By steamer on the Lake of Lucerne to Brunnen; visit the Riitli, 

Axenstein, etc. (R. 25) 1 

By steamer from Brunnen to Fliielen ; by the St. Gotthard Railway 

to ODschenm; by omnibus or on foot to Andermatt (RE. 25, 3(J,31) . 1 
By diligence over the Furka to the Rhone Glacier (E. 33); walk over 

the Grimsel to the Grimsel Hospice (R. 52) 

Walk down the Haslithal (Handegg Fall) to Meiringen (i:E. 52, 49) 1 
Walk from Meiringen (Falls of the Eeichenbach) through the Ber- 
nese Oberland, by the Scheidegg, to [the Faulhorn (EE. 49, 48) . 1 
Descend the Faulhorn to] Grindelwald (Grindelwald Glaciers) (RR. 48 

47) 1 

By railway from Grindelwald over the Wengernalp to Lauterbrunnen 

(Staubbacli) (RR. 47, 45) and Miirren (B. 46) \ 

Walk to Trachsellauenen (Upper Steinberg, Schmodribach Fall) and 

hack to Lauterbrunnen ; by railway to lnlerlaken (RR. 46, 45). . (1) 



I. PLAN OF EXCURSION. xiii 

Days 
Excursions from Interlaken (St. Beatenberg, Giessbach, Schynige 

Platte, etc. ; RR. 44, 51) 2 

By railway to Spiez; [walk to Wimmis; walk or ride to the top of 

the Niesen (RR. 43, 42) (1) 

Descend from the Niesen to the Heustrich Bad]; drive or walk to 

Kandersteg (R. 53) 1 

Walk from Kandersteg over the Gemmi to Bad Leuk (R. 53) . . . 1 
Drive to Leuk station (R. 53) ; by railway to Visp (R. 80) and Zer- 
matt (R. 84) 1 

Walk to the Eiffel Inn, ascend the Gornergrat, and return via, Findelen 

to Zermatt (R. 84) 1 

Excursions from Zermatt (Gorner Gorge, Schwarzsee, Hbrnli, etc.) 

(R. 84) 1 

Railway to Visp (R. 84) and Martigny (R. 80) i 

To Chamonix over the Col de Balme or the TUe-Noire (RR. 75, 74) 1 

Gh.amon.ix (R. 73) 1 

To Vernayaz by Salvan (R. 74); by railway to Montreux (R. 66) . 1 
Excursions from Montreux and Vevey (R. 66) ; by steamboat to 

Geneva (R. 66) 1 

Geneva and Environs (R. 65) 1 

By railway to Lausanne; several hours at Lausanne; by railway in 

the afternoon to Freiburg (RR. 66, 62) 1 

By railway to Bern (R. 62) ; at Bern (R. 40) 1 

By railway to Bale (R. 4); at Bdle (R. 1) 1 

A few additional days may be pleasantly spent in Eastern 
Switzerland (Appenzell, Bad Pfafers, Via Mala, Upper Engadine), 
whence the Italian Lakes are easily visited. 

Days 
From Rorschach or Zurich to Pfafers and Coire (RR. 89, 90) . . 1 
Diligence to Thusis; visit the Via Mala as far as the third bridge, 

and return to Thusis (R. 96) ; walk or drive by the Schyn Road to 

Tiefenkasten (R. 96) 1 

Diligence over the Julier to Silvaplana (R. 100) and St. Moritz (R. 101). 
Drive to the Maloja and back (R. 101); in the afternoon to Pon- 

tresina (R. 102) 1 

Pontresina (Morteratsch and Roseg Glaciers; ascent of the Piz Lan- 

yuard, etc.; R. 102) 2-3 

Diligence over the Bernina to Tirano and Sondrio (R. 104); railway 

to Golico (R. 104); steamer to Bellagio (R. 113) l'/a 

Bellagio ( Villa Serbelloni, Villa Carlotta, etc.) ; then via Menaggio 

and Porlezza to Lugano (RR. 112, 108) 1 

Steamboat to Ponte Tresa, railway to Luino (R. 112) ; steamer to the 

Borromean Islands and to Pallanza or Stresa (R. 110) 1 

Steamboat to Laveno, and back by the St. Gotthard Railway to 

Lucerne 1 

Or by railway and diligence over the Simplon to Brieg (R. 80) . . 



So comprehensive a tour as the above is of course rarely under- 
taken ; but it will enable the traveller to plan an excursion of suit- 
able length, such as one of the following : — 

I. Eight Days from Bale. 
(Rigi, Bernese Oberland, Rhone Glacier, St. Gotthard Route.) 

1st. From Bdle (or Constance or Romanshorn) to Zurich. Uetliberg. 

2nd. To Zug, Arth, the Rigi, and Lucerne. 

3rd. By the Brilnig Railway to Meiringen (Gorge of the Aare; Pilalus 



xiy I. PLAN OF EXCURSION. 

or Brienzer Rothhorn i/t-1 day extra) and Brienz; by steamboat to the 
Gietsbach and Interlaken. 

4th. Railway to Lauterbrunnen, Milrren and over the Wengernalp to 
Grindelwald. 
' 5th. Over the Great Scheidegg to Inn Hof. 

6th. Through the Hailithal (Handegg Fall) to the Grimsel Hospice. 
7th. By the Grimsel, the Rhone Glacier, and the Furka to Andermati 

or GSschenen. 
8th. To Fliielen, Lucerne, and 5die. 

II. Twelve ob Fourteen Days fbom Bale. 
(Rigi, Bernese Oberland, Zermatt, Gemmi.) 

lst-6th. As in Tour I. 

7th. Over the Grimsel to the Rhone Glacier. Drive to Fiesch; walk 
or ride to the Hdtel Jungfrau. 

8th. Ascend the Eggishom; walk via the Riederalp to MSrel, drive 
to Brig. [Additional day : walk from the Riederalp to the Belalp s ascend 
the Sparrenhom.] 

9th. By rail to Visp and Zermatt. 

10th. Ascend the Riffelberg and Gomergrat, etc. 

11th. Railway to Visp and Loueche; walk or drive to Bad Zeuk. 

12th. Over the Gemmi to Kandersteg ; drive to Spiez; train to Bern. 

III. Sixteen Dats feom Bale. 
(Rigi, Bernese Oberland, Zermatt, Chamonix, Lake of Geneva.) 
lst-9th. As in Tour II. 
10th. By train to Visp and Martigny. 

11th. Over the Tete-Noire or the Col de Balme to Chamonix. 
12th. Excursions from Chamonix. 

13th. By Salvan to Vernayaz; by train to Montreux. 
14th, 15th. To Glion (Naye), Vevey, Lausanne, and Geneva. 
16th. To Freiburg, Bern, and Bdle (or from Bern to Neuchdtel). 

IV. Seventeen to Twenty Days feom Bale. 
(Rigi, Bernese Oberland, Southern Valais, Chamonix.) 
lst-8th. As in Tour II. 

9th. Ascend the Gomergrat and return to St. Niklaus. 
10th. Cross the Augstbord Pass (ascent of Schwarzhwn) to Gruben. 
11th. Cross the Meiden Pass (ascent of Bella Tola) to St. Luc, Vis- 
toye, or Zinal. 

12th. At Zinal (visit the Alp Arpitetla, etc.). 
13th. Cross the Col de Torrent to Evolena. 

14th, 15th. At Evolena (Arolla and Ferpecle), and return to Sion. 
16th, 17th. Cross the Gemmi to Kandersteg and TA«» (or by rail to 
Lausanne. Freiburg, and Bern). 

(Or: 15th. From Evolena to Sion and Martigny. 16th-20th. To Cha- 
monix, Geneva, etc., as in Tour III.) 

V. Seven Days fkom Bale. 
(Bernese Oberland, Rigi, St. Gotthard Railway, Italian Lakes.) 
1st. From Bdle to Bern and Interlaken. 

2nd. To Lauterbrunnen, Milrren and over the Wengernalp to Grindelwald. 
3rd. Over the Great Scheidegg to Meiringen. 

4th. Over the Briinig to Alpnach-Stad (ascent of .ft'Zataj) and Lucerne. 
5th. By the £«. Gotthard Railway to iatieno; steamboat to Stresa 
( Borromean Islands). 

6th. By i»»»o and Lugano to Bella gio. 

7th. Steamer to Como; St. Gotthard Railway to Lucerne, etc. 

VI. Eight ob Ten Days feom Bale. 
(Rigi, Late of Lucerne, St. Gotthard, Italian Lakes, Spliigen.) 
1st. From Bdle to Lucerne, and by rail to the Rigi-Kulm. 
2nd. Descend to Vitznau; steamer to Brunnen (Axenstein, Rntli etc.). 



I. PLAN OF EXCURSION. xv 

(One or two additional days : visit the Maderaner Thai from Amsleg, 
and return by the Staffeln. By train or carriage to Goschenen.) 
3rd. By the St. Gotthard Line to Locarno. 
4th. To the Borromean Islands, Luino, and Lugano. 
5th. By Como, or by Porlezza, to Bellagio. 

6th. Walks at Bellagio; steamer to Colico ; drive to Chiavenna. 
7th. Cross the Spliigen to Coire. 
8th. To Ziirich and Neuch&tel (or to the fa2I< o/ tfie Rhine and Bdle). 

VII. Twelve to Fourteen Days from Bale. 

(Same as Tour VI., with the addition of the Upper Engadine.) 

lst-5th. As in Tour VI. 

6th. To Chiavenna and through the Val Bregaglia to Casaccia. 

7th. Cross the Maloja to St. Moritz and Pontresina. 

8th, 9th. At Pontresina (Piz Languard, etc.). 

10th. Cross the Albula to Tiefenkasten. 

11th. Through the Schyn Pass to Thusis (Via Mala) and Coire. 

12th. To Ragatz (Pfdfers) and Zurich. 

VIII. Sixteen to Eighteen Dats from Bale. 

(Same as Tour VII., with the addition of the Valtellina and Lower Engadine.) 

lst-8th. As in Tour VII. 

9th. Cros3 the Bernina to Tiratio. 

10th. Through the Valtellina to Bormio. 

11th. Cross the Wormser Joch (Piz Umbrail) to St. Maria in the 
Miinsterthal (or cross the Slelvio to Trafoi and Spondinig). 

12th. Over the 0/era Pa«« to Zemetz (or drive by Nauders and Martins- 
bruck to Schuls). 

13th. Cross the Fliiela-Pass to Davos. 

14th. Landwasser Route to Tiefenkasten. 

15th, 16th. As 11th and 12th of Tour VII. 

IX. One Month from Geneva. 
(Chamonix, Courmayeur, Zermatt, Macugnaga , Simplon, Upper Rhone 
Valley, Tosa Fall, St. Gotthard, Lake of Lucerne, Rigi, Bernese Oberland.) 

1st. From Geneva by steamer to Chilton, and by train to Aigle. 

2nd. Drive to Champlry. 

3rd. Cross the Col de Coux and Col de Golese to Samoins and Sfe<. 

4th. Cross the Col d"Anterne to Chamonix. 

5th, 6th. At Chamonix ; excursions. 

7th. Cross the Col de Voza to Contamines. 

8th. Cross the Col de BonJiomme and the Col des Fours to Motteis. 

9th. Cross the Co! de la Seigne to Courmayeur and Josia 
10th. Bail to Chdtillon and walk or ride to Val Tournanche. 
11th. Cross the Thiodule Pass to Zermatt. 
12th, 13th. At Zermatt; excursions. 
14th. To Saas and Mattmark. 
15th. To Macugnaga by the Monte Moro. 

16th. Walk or ride to Piedimulera (and thence, if time permit, devote 
a couple of days or more to the Italian Lakes). 
17th. Cross the Simplon to Brig. 
18th. Drive to Fiesch; ascend the Eggishorn. 

19th. Drive to Obergestelen (perhaps visit the Rhone Glacier thence) 
and cross the Gries Pass to the Fall of the Tosa. 
20th. Cross the S. Giacomo Pass to Airolo. 
21st. By train to Fliielen; steamboat to Vitznau. 
22nd. Rigi. 
23rd. To Lucerne. 

24th. Cross the Briinig to Meiringen. 
25th. To Rosenlaui and Grindelwald. 
26th. Cross the Wengemalp to Lauterbrunnen and Milrren. 



xvi I. PLAN OF EXCURSION. 

27th. To Interlalen; visit Giessbach, etc. 
28th. To Thun, Bern, and B&le. 

All the above tours are adapted for moderate walkers, and 
may of coarse be varied at pleasure. 

Lastly, to travellers who are disinclined for a prolonged tour, 
the following notes may be acceptable : — 

Famous Points of View. 

1. In the Jura (with the Alps in the distance, the lower Swiss 
hills in the foreground, and, from the westernmost points, the lakes 
of Bienne, Neuchatel, and Geneva) : H6lel Schweizerhof (p. 26) by the Falls 
of the Rhine ; the Weissenstein (p. 15) near Soleure ; the Frohburg (p. 13) 
near Olten ; the Chaumont (p. 197) and the Tete de Rang (p. 197), in Canton 
Neuchatel ; the Signal de Chexbres (p. 206), the Signal de Bougy (p. 224), the 
DSle (p. 224) and the Dent de Vaulion (p. 209) in the Canton de Vaud. 

2. Nearer the Alps, or among the lower Alps: 

(a). On the N. side of the Alps: the Kaien (p. 53), Hohe Kaslen 
(p. 55), and Sentis (p. 56) in Canton Appenzell ; the Uetliberg (p. 38) and 
Bachtel (p. 42) near Zurich ; the Speer (p. 44) near Weesen ; the Alvier (p. 45) 
near Sargans ; the Rigi (p. 85), Pilatus (p. 94) , Stanserhorn (p. 118), My- 
then (p. 101) , Niederbauen (p. 81), and the Frolmalpstoch (p. 83) near the 
Lake of Lucerne; the Napf (p. 130) in the Entlebuch; the Schanzli (p. 140) 
and the Gurten (p. 140) near Bern; the Moltson (p. 241) and Jaman (p. 242) 
in Canton Freiburg ; the Saleve (p. 220) and the Voirons (p. 221) in Savoy, 
near Geneva ; the Rochers de Nape (p. 232), near Glion ; the Chamossaire 
(p. 235) near Villars. 

(b). On the S. side of the Alps : Monte Generoso (p. 430), Monte S-. Sal- 
valore (p. 428), and Monte Bre (p. 429) near the Lake of Lugano; Monte 
Motlerone (p. 441) and Punta Arcumeggia (p. 437) on Lago Maggiore; the 
Monte S. Primo (p. 451) near the Lake of Como ; the Becca di Nona (p. 284) 
near Aosta; the Crammont (p. 282) near Pre-St. Didier. 

3. Among the High Alps: Nieten (p. 143), Amisbiihel (p. 147), Heim- 
wehjtuh (p. 150), Schynige Platte (p. 152), Abendberg (p. 153) , Faulhorn 
(p. 166), Wengernalp (p. 161), Mannlichen (p. 165), Brienzer Rothhorn (p. 172), 
Milrren (p. 156), and the Schilthorn (p. 157) in the Bernese Oberland ; the Piezo 
Centrale (p. 113) on the St. Gotthard; Taneda (p. 107), in the Val Piora; 
the Furkahom (p. 117), Kleine Siedelhorn (p. 177), Eggishorn (p. 305), Sparr- 
horn (p. 298), the Torrenthorn (p. 184), Pierre a Voir (p. 238), Mont Brtilf 
(p. 288), Gornergrat (p. 323), Breithorn (p. 325), Schwanhorn (p. 319), Bella 
Tola (p. 318), and Pic d'Arzinol (p. 311) in the Valais ; the Col de Balme 
(p. 275), Fligere (p. 267), and Brivent (p. 268) near Chamonix ; Piz Umbrail 
(p. 418) on the Stelvio route: Muot Marmore (p. 389), Muottas Muraigl (p. 399), 
Sehafberg (p. 398), Piz Languard (p. 399), Piz Ol (p. 395), Schwarzhorn (p. 353), 
Statzerhom (p. 383), Piz Mundaun (p. 362) and Piz Muraun (p. 365) in 
the Grisons. 

Principal Alpine Passes. 
Pre-eminent in point of scenery is the St. Gotthard (RR. 30, 31), rendered 
easily accessible by the railway across it ; but it need hardly be said that 
its attractions are not seen to advantage from the windows of a train. 
Next to it ranks the SplUgen (RR. 96, 97), particularly on the N. side, 
where it coincides with the Bernardino Route (R. 98). The finest approach 
to the Engadine is by the Schyn-Strasse (p. 371) and the Albula Pass (R. 99); 
and the beautiful Maloja Pass (RR. 101, 105) leads thence to the Lake 
of Como. From the Engadine the interesting Bernina Pass (R. 104) crosses 
to the somewhat monotonous Valtellina, the journey through which has, 
however, been much facilitated by the railway from Sondrio to Colico 
(p. 413). In Western Switzerland the Simplon (R. 80) is justly a fav- 
ourite pass, though inferior to several of the above , while the famous 
Great St. Bernard (R. 78), apart from its hospice, is undoubtedly the least 
interesting of the series. Many of the grandest, and also easiest passes 
are comprised in the 9th of the above Tours. 



II. TRAVELLING EXPENSES. MONEY. xvii 

Headquarters for Mountaineering. 
The most important are Orindelwald (p. 163), Zermatt (p. 321) , Cha- 
monix (p. 264) , Courmayeur (p. 280), Macugnaga (p. 330), and Pontresina 
(p. 395), at all of which experienced guides abound. 

Health Resorts. 

Switzerland can boast of few mineral springs, but 'Luftkurorte' 
( l air-cure places') and summer pensions abound in every part of the 
country. A few of the most important only need be mentioned here. 

Mineral Baths. Tarasp, in the Lower Engadine (p. 408) ; St. Moritz, 
in the Upper Engadine (p. 391); Ragatz (p. 343); Slachelberg (p. 61); 
Weissenburg (p. 191); Lenk (p. 188); Leuk or Loe'che (p. 183); the saline 
baths of Bex and Aigle (pp. 235, 234); St. Gervais (p. 260). 

Winter Resokts for invalids: Davos (p. 354); Montrewx (p. 230). 

Summer Besorts, see p. xviii. 

II. Travelling Expenses. Money. 

Expenses. The cost of a tour in Switzerland depends of course 
upon the habits and tastes of the traveller. The pedestrian's daily 
expenditure, exclusive of guides, may be estimated at 12-15s., or 
even less, if he selects the more modest inns. The traveller, on the 
other hand, who prefers driving and riding to walking, who always 
goes to the best hotels, and never makes an ascent without a guide, 
must be prepared to spend at least twice the above sum ; while the 
mountaineer's expenses will often amount to several pounds for a 
single glacier-expedition. 

Money. The Swiss monetary system was assimilated to that of 
France in 1851. In gold there are coins of 20 fr., in silver of 5, 2, 1, 
and */ 2 fr. (Those of 1859-63, with the sitting figure of Helvetia, 
which have been called in, Italian pieces coined previous to 1863, 
and Papal 1 fr. and i/ 2 fr. pieces should be declined). In plated 
copper 20, 10, and 5 centimes (or 'Eappen'), and in copper 2 and 
1 c. pieces. One franc = 100 c. = (in German money) 80 pfennigs 
= 9 3 /4<2. Twenty franc-pieces are the most convenient money, and 
English sovereigns (25 fr.) and banknotes are received almost every- 
where at the full value ; but the circular notes of 10J. , issued by 
many of the English banks, are safer for carrying large sums. Ger- 
man gold and banknotes also realize their full value (20 marks = 
24 fr. 50-60 c). 

III. Hotels and Pensions. 

Hotels. Switzerland is famous for its hotels. The large modern 
establishments at Geneva, Vevey, Zurich, Lucerne, Interlaken, etc., 
are models of organisation ; the smaller hotels are often equally well 
conducted, and indeed a really bad inn is rarely met with in French 
or German Switzerland. 

The ordinary charges at the first - class hotels are : bed - room 
from 2l/ 2 fr., candle 1 fr., service 1 fr. ; breakfast (tea or coffee, 
bread, butter, and honey) 1 1 / 2 f r. in the public room, 2 fr. in the 
traveller's apartment ; lunch 3-3V2 i table d'hote dinner 4-5 fr. ; 

Baedeker, Switzerland. 15th Edition. b 



xviii in. HOTELS AND PENSIONS. 

supper generally ft la carte. When attendance is charged in the bill, 
nothing more need be given except to the boots and porter. At the 
large hotels the best accommodation is generally reserved for fam- 
ilies, while the solitary traveller is consigned to the inferior rooms 
at equally high charges. 

At the second-class inns the average charges are : bed-room from 
1 1/2-2 fr., breakfast 1-1 1/4 fr., table d'hote 27 2 -3fr., service discre- 
tionary, and no charge for 'bougies'. 

Opinions regarding hotels often differ ; but travellers will rarely 
have much cause to complain if they endeavour to comply with the 
customs of the country, restrict their luggage to a moderate quantity 
(jp. xxv), and learn enough of the language to make themselves in- 
telligible. 

If a prolonged stay is made at a hotel, the bill should be asked for 
every three or four days, in order that errors, whether accidental or de- 
signed, may more easily be detected. When an early departure is contem- 
plated, the bill should be obtained over-night. It is not an uncommon 
practice to withhold the bill till the last moment, when the hurry and 
confusion of starting render pvercharges less liable to discovery. 

In the height of the season the hotels at the favourite resorts of trav- 
ellers are often crowded. To prevent disappointment rooms should be tele- 
graphed for (p. xxv). 

Pensions. Boarding-houses or 'pensions' abound at Lucerne, 
Geneva, Interlaken, and in many other parts of Switzerland. The 
charge for board and lodging varies from 4^/2 to 10 fr. or more, and at 
some of the most famous health-resorts and watering-places some- 
times amounts to 20 fr. per day. As the word 'pension' is some- 
times used to signify board only, the traveller should ascertain 
whether rooms are included in the charge or not. In the dull 
season (October to June) many of the hotels also take visitors 'en 
pension', usually charging 1-372 fr. per week extra for attendance. 

Among the Swiss Summer Resorts may be mentioned: — 

In Northern Switzerland: The Weissenstein (4220'; p. 15) near So- 
leure; Langenbruck (2355'; p. 13) and Frenkendorf (1120'; p. 12) near Lies- 
tal; the Frohburg (2772'; p. 13) near Olten; the Chaumont (3845'; p. 197) 
near Neuchatel; Zurich (1345'; p. 32) and the Uetliberg (2864'; p. 38); 
Wademieeil (1348'; p. 41) and other places on the Lake of Zurich (1342'); 
BchOnfels and Felsenegg (3085'; p. 71) near Zug; Agerithal (2380'; p. 72); 
Weesen (1410'; p. 43); and iiurg (p. 45) on the Walensee; Obstalden (2237': 
p. 44), Slachelberg (2178'; p. 61), Torauen (2640'), and Richisau (3590 1 ) in 
the Klonthal (p. 66); the Heinrichsbad (2300'; p. 48), near Herisau- Sor- 
tchach (1312' ; p. 50), Walzenhausen (2207'; p. 50), Heiden (2645'; d. 52)' Oats 
(3075'; p. 54), and Weistbad (268C; p. 54) in Appenzell. 

On the Lake op Lucerne (1435') : Lucerne (p. 73) ; Meggen (p. 96) ; Her- 
tit /■_ .. d„i. j ,_ on,, xr,... . ~tj^_ g ertau 

Seelisberg 
yi-KlesterU 
-- . . . - . - . , - - 1 Scheidegg (5405'). 

In Canton Lucerne: Sonnenberg (2560'; p. 74); Sehwarzenberg (2760'- 
p. 129). In Unteewalden : Engelberg (3315'; p. 120) ; ffiederrickenbach (3830'' 
p. 119); Melchtee-Frutl (6115'; p. 123). In Ubi: Amsteg (1760'; p. 104). the 
Maderaner Thai (4790 1 ; p. 113); Unlertchdchen (3345'; p. 64); Andevmatt 
(4738'; p. Ill); Hotpenthal (4800'; p. Ill); St. Qotthard (6867'; p. 112). 

In the Bernese Oberland: Bern (1765'; p. 134); Thun (1844'- p.141). 
Oberhofen (p. 146), Ounten (p. 146), Spies (p. 145) and Faulenseebad (p. 146) 




IV. PASSPORTS. xix 

on the Lake of Than (1837'); AicM (2818'; p. 179); Gurnigelbad (3783'; 
p. 143); Interlaken (1863'; p. 148); St. Beatenberg (3775'; p. 146); Abendberg 
(3737'; p. 153); theGiessbach (1857'; p. 173); Murren (5350 1 ; p. 156); Wengen 
(4327': p. 161); Grindelwald (3468'; p. 163); Rosenlauibad (4363'; p. 169); Mei- 
ringen (1968'; p. 170); Engstlenalp (6033'; p. 126); Adelboden (445CC; p. 18b); 
Kanderiteg (3840"; p. 180); Lenk (3527'; p. 188). 

On the Lake of Geneva, in the Rhone Valley, etc.: Geneva (1243'; 
p. 209); Ouchy (p. 225); Lausanne (p. 225); Vevey (p. 228); Montreux 
(p. 230); Qlion (2254 1 ; p. 231); Aigle (1375'; p. 234); Bex (1427'; p. 235); 
Villars (4166'; p. 235); the Ormonts (3815'; p. 239); Gryon (3632'; p. 243); 
Ch&teau d'Oex (3498'; p. 242); Champiry (3450'; p. 247); Fiesch (3458'; 
p. 305); Belalp (7153'; p. 298); Riederalp (6315'; p. 306); Eggishorn (7195'; 
p. 305) ; Berisal (5005'; p. 300) ; Zermatt (5315'; p. 321), the Riffelalp (7305'; 
p. 323) and Riffelberg (8430'; p. 323); Saas-Fee (5900'; p. 332); -S*. i«c (5495'; 
p. 318) ; Hotel Weisshorn (7550'; p. 316); Zinal (5505'; p. 316) ; Evolena (4520'; 
p. 311) ; Chamonix (3445'; p. 264). 

In the Gkisons: Samaden (5670'; p. 394); Poniresina (5915'; p. 395); 
St. Moritz (6090'; p. 392); Sils-Maria (5895'; p. 389); -J/aio/a (5960'; p. 337); 
Zuoz (5548'; p. 405); Schuh (3970'; p. 40S); Davos (5115'; p. 354); Arota 
(6035"; p. 358); Klosters (3966'; p. 351); Serais (2985'; p. 350); Waldhauser 
(3615'; p. 361), near Flims; Thusis (2448'; p. 371); Disentis (3773'; p. 365); 
Wiesen (4720'; p. 356); Churwalden (3976'; p. 383); Pa/^aw (4956'; p. 383). 

On the South Side op the Alps: Airolo (3755'; p. 106); Hdtel Piora 
(6000'; p. 106) ; Faido (2485'; p. 107); and Bignasco (1424'; p. 433); in Ticino; 
Macugnaga (5115'; p. 330); Alagna (3955'; p. 334); Gressoney (5370 1 ; p. 335); 
Lugano (932'; p. 426) ; Bellagio (p. 450), Cadenabbia, Menaggio, etc., on the 
Lake of Como (700'); Locarno (p. 432), Pallanza (p. 438), .Bawno (p. 439), 
and Stresa (p. 440) , on the Lago Maggiore (646') ; Monte Generoso (5560'; 
p. 430) and Lanzo d^Intelvi (3117'; p. 447), near the Lake of Lngano. 

IV. Passports. Custom House. 

Passports. In Switzerland passports are unnecessary, but as 
they must be shown in order to obtain delivery of registered letters, 
and are sometimes of service in proving the traveller's identity, 
it is unwise not to be provided with one. The principal passport- 
agents in London are : Lee and Carter, 440 West Strand ; Dorrel 
and Son, 15 Charing Cross; E. Stanford, 26 Cockspur St., Charing 
Cross; W. J. Adams, 59 Fleet Street. 

Custom House. Luggage is rarely examined at the Swiss 
custom-house, but the formalities of the douane must be un- 
dergone by persons leaving Switzerland. At the French, Italian, 
and Austrian frontiers the examination is sometimes strict, and to- 
bacco and cigars pay a heavy duty, but at the German frontier the 
visile is usually lenient. As a rule the traveller should restrict his 
belongings as far as possible to wearing apparel and articles for per- 
sonal use. 

V. Walking Tours. 

In a mountainous country like Switzerland it is to pedestrians 
alone that many of the finest points are accessible, and even where 
driving or riding is practicable, walking is often more enjoyable. 

Disposition of Time. The first golden rule for the walker is to 
start early. If strength permits, and a suitable halting-place is to 
be met with, a walk of one or two hours may be accomplished be- 

b* 



m V. WALKING TOURS. 

fore breakfast. At noon a moderate luncheon is preferable to the 
usual table d'hote dinner. Rest should be taken during the hottest 
hours (12-3), and the journey then continued till 5 or 6 p.m., 
when a substantial meal (evening table d'hote at the principal hotels) 
may be partaken of. The traveller's own feelings will best dictate 
the hour for retiring to bed. 

Equipment. A superabundance of luggage infallibly increases 
the delays, annoyances , and expenses of travel. To be provided 
with enough and no more, may be considered the second golden 
rule for the traveller. A light 'gibeciere' or game-bag, which is 
far less irksome to carry than a knapsack, suffices to contain all that 
is necessary for a week's excursion. A change of flannel shirts and 
worsted stockings , a few pocket-handkerchiefs , a pair of slippers, 
and the 'objets de toilette' may, with a little^practice, be carried 
with hardly a perceptible increase of fatigue. A pocket-knife with a 
corkscrew, a leather drinking-cup, a spirit-flask, stout gloves , and a 
piece of green crape or coloured spectacles to protect the eyes from 
the glare of the snow, should not be forgotten. Useful, though less 
indispensable, are an opera-glass or small telescope, sewing materials, 
a supply of strong cord, sticking plaster, a small compass, a pocket- 
lantern, a thermometer, and an aneroid barometer. The traveller's 
reserve of clothing should be contained in a portmanteau of moder- 
ate size, which he can easily wield himself when necessary, and 
which may be forwarded from town to town by post. 

The mountaineer should have a well-tried Alpenstock of seasoned 
ash, 5-6' long, shod with a steel point, and strong enough, when 
placed horizontally, with the ends supported, to bear the whole 
weight of the body. For the more difficult ascents an Ice- Axe and 
Rope are also necessary. The best ropes, light and strong, are made 
of silk or Manilla hemp. In crossing a glacier the precaution of using 
the rope should never be neglected. It should be securely tied 
round the waist of each member of the party, leaving a length of 
about 10' between each pair. Ice-axes are made in various forms, 
and are usually furnished with a spike at the eud of the handle, so 
that they can in some measure be used like an Alpenstock. 

General Hints. The traveller's ambition often exceeds his 
powers of endurance, and if his strength be once overtaxed he will 
sometimes be incapacitated altogether for several days. At the 
outset, therefore, the walker's performances should be moderate; 
and even when he is in good training , they should rarely exceed 
10 hrs. a day. When a mountain has to be breasted, the pedes- 
trian should avoid 'spurts', and pursue the 'even tenor of his way' 
at a steady and moderate pace ( 'chi va piano va sano ; chi va sano 
va lontano' ). As another golden maxim for his guidance, the travel- 
ler should remember that— 'When fatigue begins, enjoyment ceases'. 

Mountaineering among the higher Alps should not be attempted 
before the middle or end of July, nor at any period after a long 



VI. MAPS. xxi 

.continuance of rain or snow. Glaciers should be traversed as early 
in tlie morning as possible, before the sun softens the crust of ice 
formed during the night over the crevasses. Experienced guides 
are indispensable for such excursions. 

The traveller is cautioned against sleeping in chalets, unless ab- 
solutely necessary. Whatever poetry there may be theoretically in 
'a fragrant bed of hay', the cold night-air piercing abundant aper- 
tures , the ringing of the cow-bells , the grunting of the pigs, and 
the undiscarded garments, hardly conduce to refreshing slumber. 
As a rule, therefore, the night previous to a mountain expedition 
should be spent either at an inn or at one of the club-huts which 
the Swiss, German, and Italian Alpine Clubs have recently erected 
for the convenience of travellers. 

Mountaineers should provide themselves with fresh meat, bread, 
and wine or spirits for long expeditions. The chalets usually afford 
nothing but Alpine fare (milk , cheese, and stale bread). Glacier- 
water should not be drunk except in small quantities, mixed with 
wine or cognac. Cold milk is also safer when qualified with spirits. 
One of the best beverages for quenching the thirst is cold tea. 

Over all the movements of the pedestrian the weather holds 
despotic sway. The barometer and weather-wise natives should be 
consulted when an opportunity offers. The blowing down of the 
wind from the mountains into the valleys in the evening, the melt- 
ing away of the clouds, the fall of fresh snow on the mountains, 
and the ascent of the cattle to the higher parts of their pasture are 
all signs of fine weather. On the other hand it is a bad sign if the 
distant mountains are dark blue in colour and very distinct in out- 
line, if the wind blows up the mountains , and if the dust rises in 
eddies on the roads. West winds also usually bring rain. 

Health. For wounds and bruises zinc ointment is a good remedy. 
Another is a mixture of V2 oz. of white wax, '/^ oz. tallow, 3 /t oz. olive 
oil, and l l /2 drachms of vinegar of lead, melted together. For inflammation 
of the skin, caused by the glare of the sun on the snow, cold cream or 
glycerine and starch are recommended. Another remedy is an ointment 
of equal parts of almond oil, white wax, and spermaceti. 

Fur diarrhoea 16 drops of tincture of opium and aromatic tincture 
mixed in equal quantities may be taken every two hours until relief is 
afforded. The homoeopathic tincture of camphor is also useful. 



VI. Maps. 

1. Maps of Switzerland in One Sheet : — 
*Leuzinger's neue Karte der Schweiz (1 : 400,000), 6fr. 40c. 
Keller's Reisekarte der Schweiz (1 : 440,000), 4fr. 80 c. 
Mullhaupt's Karte (1 : 300,000), 2 sheets, 4fr. 

2. Maps on a Labgeb, Scale : — 

*Topographische Karte der Schweiz, from surveys made by order 
of the Federal authorities (under the superintendence of General 



xxii VII. GUIDES. 

Dufour); scale 1 : 100,000; 25 sheets, each 1 to 2fr. (not mounted). 
Heights are given in metres. 

An admirable work on a still larger scale is the *Topogra- 
phisehe Atlas der Schweiz, on the scale of the original drawings 
(flat districts 1:25,000, mountains 1:50,000), published by the 
Federal Staff Office under the superintendence of Col. Siegfried; 
each sheet 1 fr. 

The Alpine Club Map of Switzerland , published by B. C. Ni- 
chols (1 : 250,000), 4 sheets, 42s. 

For Chamonix, Reilly's Map of Mont Blanc, and Mieulet's Massif 
du Montblanc (1 : 40,000). 

VII. Guides. 

On well-trodden routes like those of the Rigi, Pilatus, Wen- 
gern Alp, Faulhorn, Scheidegg, Grimsel, Gemmi, etc., the services 
of a guide are unnecessary ; but the traveller may engage the first 
urchin he meets to caTry his bag or knapsack for a trifling gratuity. 
Guides are, however, indispensable for glacier-expeditions. As a 
class, they will be found to be intelligent and respectable men, 
well versed in their duties, and acquainted with the people and 
resources of the country. 

The great stations for guides are Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen, 
Grindelwald, Meiringen, Martigny, Chamonix, Courmayeur, Zer- 
matt , and Pontresina , while for the principal passes guides are 
always to be found at the neighbouring villages. The traveller 
should select one of the certificated guides , who have passed an 
examination, and are furnished with legal certificates of character 
and qualifications. The usual pay of a guide is 6-8 fr. for a day of 
8 hrs. ; he is bound to carry 15-18 pounds of baggage, and to hold 
himself at the entire disposition of his employers. If dismissed at 
a distance from home, he is entitled to 6fr. a day for the return- 
journey ; but he is bound to return by the shortest practicable route. 

Although a guide adds considerably to the traveller's expenses, 
the outlay will seldom be regretted. A good guide points out many 
objects which the best maps fail to indicate ; he furnishes interesting 
information about manners and customs, battle-fields, and historical 
incidents ; and when the traveller reaches his hotel, wearied with the 
fatigues of the day, his guide often renders him valuable service. 
It need hardly be said that a certain amount of good fellowship and 
confidence should subsist between the traveller and the man who 
is perhaps to be his sole companion for several days, and upon 
whose skill and experience his very life not unfrequently depends. 

Divided among a party, the expense of a guide is of course 
greatly diminished; but where there is much luggage to carry, it is 
often better to hire a horse or mule, the attendant of which will 
serve as a guide on the ordinary Toutes. 

Adult porters are entitled to 75 cent, or 1 fr. an hour, when 



IX. DILIGENCES, etc. xxiii 

not engaged by the day, return included. In every case it is advis- 
able to make a distinct bargain beforehand. 

VIII. Carriages and Horses. 

Carriages. The ordinary charge for a carriage with one horse is 
15-20 fr., with two horses 25-30 fr. per day, and the driver ex- 
pects 10 per cent of the fare as a gratuity. In the height of sum- 
mer the charges are slightly increased. Like the guides , the 
'voiturier' demands the return -fare to the place where he was 
engaged, and the traveller should therefore endeavour to discharge 
his carriage as near the home of the driver as possible. 

For long journeys it is desirable to have a written agreement, 
which the driver usually concludes by depositing a sum with his 
employer as earnest-money, afterwards to be added to the account. 
The carriage and horses should be inspected before the conclusion 
of the bargain. Private posting, or the system of changing horses, 
is forbidden by law. 

Return-vehicles may sometimes be obtained for 10 to 15 fr. per 
day, but the use of them is in some places prohibited. 

The average day's journey is 30-40 miles, a halt of 2-3 hrs. 
being made about noon ; and for the return-journey about 36 M. 

In mountainous districts 'Bergwagli' or 'chars-a-bancs', for two 
persons, may be hired for 12-15 fr. per day, fees included. 

Horses. A horse or mule costs 10-12 fr. per day, and the atten- 
dant expects a gratuity of 1-2 fr. in addition; but in some places, 
as at Chamonix, as much is charged for the attendant as for the 
animal. If he cannot return home with his horse on the same day, 
the following day must be paid for. Walking, however, is prefer- 
able. A prolonged ascent on horseback is fatiguing, and the de- 
scent of a steep hill is disagreeable. Even ladies may easily ascend 
some of the finest points of view on foot, but if unequal to the 
task they may either ride or engage 'chaises-a-porteurs'. 

IX. Diligences, Post Office, Telegraph. 

Diligences. The Swiss postal system is well organised. The 
diligences are generally well fitted up, the drivers and guards are 
respectable, and the fares moderate. These vehicles consist of the 
coupe, or first-class compartment in front , with 2-3 seats, the in- 
terieur, or second-class compartment at the back, with 4-6 seats, 
which affords little or no view, and the banquette (used in summer 
only) for 2 passengers on the outside. In some cases there is only 
one outside-seat, which is reserved for the conducteur, or guard, 
but which will be ceded by him on payment of the difference be- 
tween the ordinary and the coupe fare. 

On important routes the coupe" is generally engaged several days 
beforehand. This may be done by letter, enclosing the fare, and 
giving the traveller's name , and the day and hour of departure. 



xxiv IX. DILIGENCES, etc. 

When the diligence is full, 'Beiwagen', or supplementary carriages 
are provided. These are often light , open vehicles , preferable 
to the lumbering 'Postwagen'. A seat in one of them may gen- 
erally be procured by arrangement with the conductor. As a rule 
passengers are consigned to the interieur or to a supplementary 
carriage in the order in which they are booked. If therefore the 
traveller has failed to secure a coupe or banquette seat by early 
application, he will often avoid the inte"rieur by delaying to take 
his ticket till the diligence is about to start. 

The coupe or banquette fare is on ordinary routes 20 c. per 
kilometre (about 32 e. per Engl. M.),on Alpine passes 30 c. peTkilom. 
(about 48 c. per Engl. M.); fare in the interieur or cabriolet 15 or 
25 c. per kilometre (24 or 40 per Engl. M.). Children of 2-7 years of 
age pay half-fare. Each passenger is allowed 33 lbs. of luggage 
on ordinary routes, but 22 lbs. only on the high Alpine routes. 
Overweight is charged for at the ordinary postal tariff. Small articles 
may be taken into the carriage, but heavy luggage should be booked 
one hour before starting. The average speed of these sedate mail- 
coaches of Switzerland is about 6 M. per hour on level ground, and 
4 M. per hour on mountains-routes. 

Extra-Post. This is the term applied to the Swiss system of 
posting, managed by government, private posting being prohibited. 
The charge for each horse is r jih. per kilometre (80c. per M.) ; for 
a carriage with 2-5 seats 20 c. per kilom. (32 c. per M.), for one 
with 6 seats 25 c. per kilom. (40 c. per M.), for one with 7 or 
more seats 30 c. per kilom. (48 c. per M.). Besides these charges, 
which include the driver's fee, an additional payment of 2-4 fr. 
must be made according to the size of the carriage. If the same 
vehicle is required for a journey of several stages, double carriage- 
money is exacted. Extra-post may be ordered at the principal post- 
offices on the mountain-routes at one hour's notice. The fare must 
be paid in advance. 

Letters of 250 grammes (about 9 oz.), prepaid, to any part o 
Switzerland 10 c. ; if within a radius of 10 kilometres, 5c; letters 
of 15 grammes (about y 2 oz to a 'l countries in the postal union 
25 c, and 25 c. for each 15 gr. more Registration-fee for Switzer- 
land 10 c., for other countries 25 c — Post-cards for Switzerland 
5c, for other countries 10 c. — Printed matter under 15 gr. for 
Switzerland 2c, for other countries 5 c. 

Post Office Orders within Switzerland must not exceed 1000 fr. for 
the larger, and 500 fr. for the smaller towns. The charge for an order not 
exceeding 20 fr. is 15 c., for 100 fr. 20 c, for each additional 100 fr. 10 c. 
more. Money-orders for foreign countries 24 c. for every 100 fr. (with a 
minimum fee of 60 c). 

Parcel Post. The rate of postage for an inland parcel from any 
post office in Switzerland to any other is 15 c for a weight not ex- 
ceeding 500 grammes (iy, !*>.); 16 c. from 500 to 2."i00 gr. ; 40 c 
from 2500 gr. to 5 kilogrammes (11 lb.); 70 c. from 5 to 10 kgr.; 



X. RAILWAYS. xxv 

1 fr. from 10 to 15 kgr.; 1 fr. 50 c. from 15 to 20 kgr. The tariff 
for parcels exceeding 20 kgr. varies according to the distance from 
30 to 90 c. for every 5 kgr. Luggage can often be sent by post much 
more cheaply than by other means. 

The Telegraph. System of Switzerland is very complete, the 
aggregate length of the wires being at present greater than in any 
other country in proportion to the population. There are now 
upwards of 1000 offices; those in the large towns are open from 
6 or 7 a.m. till 11 or 10 p.m. according to the season. The tariff 
for a telegram within Switzerland is 30 c, together with 5 c. for 
every two words; to Germany 50c. and 10c. for each word; to 
England 40 c. for each word ; to France 7 c. for each word for tele- 
grams to the frontier, or 12'^ c. for each word for greater distances. 
The rates for other foreign telegrams may be ascertained at the offices. 
For telegrams handed in at railway-stations an additional charge of 
50 c. is made. 

Telegrams may be handed in at any post-office, from which, if 
not itself a telegraph office, they are transmitted without delay to 
the nearest. In such cases the fee for the telegram is paid by af- 
fixing a stamp of the requisite value (}fe fr. or upwards, according 
to the number of words). 

X. Railways. 

The Carriages on most of the Swiss lines are constructed on 
the American plan, generally holding 72 passengers, and furnished 
at each end with steps of easy access. Through each carriage, and 
indeed through the whole train, runs a passage, on each side of 
which the seats are disposed. This arrangement enables the trav- 
eller to change his seat at pleasure, and to see the scenery to ad- 
vantage, unless the carriage is very full. Tickets are examined and 
collected in the carriages. 

The carriages in French Switzerland are of the ordinary con- 
struction. Passengers' tickets are checked as they leave the waiting- 
room before starting, and given up at the 'Sortie' on their arrival. 

Luggage must be booked and paid for after the traveller has 
obtained his own ticket, but small portmanteaus and travelling-bags 
may generally be taken into the carriage without objection. Trav- 
ellers with through-tickets from the German to the Swiss railways, 
or vice versa, should see that their luggage is safe on reaching the 
frontier (Bale, Geneva, Neuchatel, Friedrichshafen, Lindau, Ror- 
chach, Romanshorn, etc.). Where a frontier has to be crossed, 
ordinary luggage should never be sent by goods-train. 

The enormous weight of the large trunks and boxes used by 
some travellers causes not only great labour but not infrequently 
serious and even lifelong injury to the railway and hotel porters who 
have to handle them. Heavy articles should be placed in the smaller 
packages, and only the lightest articles in the larger trunks. 



xxvi XI. HISTORY. 

Circular Tickets and return-tickets aTe issued at reduced Tates 
on most of the Swiss lines, and also by the German and French 
railways to Switzerland. Information regarding them will be found in 
the time-tables ; but they are apt to hamper the traveller's movements 
and to deprive him of the independence essential to enjoyment. 

XI. History. Statistics. 

The limits of this work preclude more than a brief historical sketch of 
the interesting country the traveller is now visiting, whose inhabitants have 
ever been noted for their spirit of freedom and independence. It is ne- 
cessary for a moment to carry the reader back to the conquest of Helvetia 
by the Roman legions. Under the Roman sway Helvetia enjoyed a flourish- 
ing trade, which covered the land with cities and villages. A trace of 
that period exists in the Romanic dialect, which is still spoken in some 
parts of Switzerland. 

Switzerland is believed to have been first peopled by the Rhaeti, who 
were driven from the plains to the mountains by the Uelvetii, a Celtic 
tribe. The latter were conquered by the Romans, B. C. 58, and the Rhaeti 
were subdued in B. C. 15. The Romans made good military roads over 
the Great St. Bernard (p. 290) to Bale , and over the Julier (p. 385), 
Septimer (p. 385), and Spliigen (p. 375) to Bregenz (p. 424), and thence to 
Bale. The chief settlements were Aventicum (Avenches, p. 207) in the Can- 
ton of Vaud, Vindonissa (p. 19) at the confluence of the Aare, Reuss, and 
Limmat, Augusta Rauracorum (Augst, p. 18) near Bale, and Curia Rhae- 
lorum (Coire, p. 347) in the Grisons. E. Switzerland as far as Pfyn (ad 
fines) in Thurgau, and Pfyn (p. 297) in the Upper Valais, belonged to the 
province of Rhsetia, while W. Switzerland formed part of Gaul. The name 
Helvetii had become extinct even before the time of Constantine. 

About A. D. 400 a great irruption of barbarians swept through the 
peaceful valleys of the Alps, and Huns, Burgundians, Alemanni, and 
Ostrogoths in succession settled in different parts of the country. The 
Alemanni occupied the whole of N. Switzerland, where German is now 
spoken ; the Burgundians the W. part, where French is spoken ; and the 
Ostrogoths S. Switzerland, where Italian and Romansch are now spoken. 
These races were gradually subdued by the Franks, who, however, did not 
take possession of the country themselves, but governed it by their officers. 
During this period Christianity was introduced, the monasteries of Disentis 
(p. 365), St. Oallen (p. 48), Einsiedeln (p. 98), and Beromiinster were 
founded, and dukes and counts were appointed as vicegerents of the 
Franconian kings. 

After the dissolution of the great Franconian empire, the eastern half 
of Switzerland, the boundary of which extended from Eglisau over the 
Albis to Lucerne and the Grimsel, was united with the duchy of Aleman- 
nia, or Swabia, and the western part with the kingdom of Burgundy (912). 
After the downfall of the latter (1032) the German Emperors took posses- 
sion of the country, and governed it by their vicegerents the dukes of 
Zcehringen (p. 135), who were perpetually at enmity with the Burgundian 
nobles and therefore favoured the inhabitants of the towns, and were 
themselves the founders of several new towns, such as Freiburg Bern 
and Burgdorf. 6 ' ' 

As the power of the emperors declined, and the nobles, spiritual and 
temporal, became more ambitious of independence, and more eager to fill 
their coffers at the expense of their neighbours, the Swiss towns and the 
few country-people who had succeeded in preserving their freedom from 
serfdom were compelled to consult their safety by entering into treaties 
with the feudal lords of the soil. Thus the inhabitants of Zurich placed 
themselves under the protection of the then unimportant Counts of Saps- 
burg, with whom the ' Three Cantons ' of Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden 
were also allied. In 1231 and 1240 letters of independence were granted 
by Emperor Frederick II. to Uri and Schwyz, and after Count Rudolph of 



XI. HISTORY. xxvii 

Hapsburg had become emperor he confirmed the privileges of the former 
in 1274, while Schwyz and Unterwalden still continued subject to the 
Hapsburg supremacy. 

After the emperor's death in 1291 the Forest Cantons formed their 
first league for mutual safety and the protection of their liberty against 
the growing power of the House of Hapsburg. Rudolph's son Albert in 
particular endeavoured to rear the limited rights he enjoyed in these dis- 
tricts into absolute sovereignty, and to incorporate them with his empire. 

The ancient cantons therefore embraced the cause of the rival monarch 
Adolph of Nassau, who confirmed their privileges. Victory, however, 
favoured Albert, who again deprived the cantons of their privileges, but 
does not appear to have treated them with much severity. To this period 
belongs the romantic but unfounded tradition of William Tell. + 

After the assassination of Albert by John of Swabia in 1308, Emperor 
Henry 711., who was also an opponent of the Hapsburgers, conferred a 
charter of independence on the Forest Cantons. The House of Hapsburg 
regarded this as an infringement of their rights, and sent a powerful 
army against these cantons, which after the death of Henry had declared 
their adherence to Lewis the Bavarian, the opponent of Frederick the 
Handsome. This army was destroyed at the Morgarten (p. 72) in 1315. 
Subsequent attempts to subject the country to the supremacy of the 
House of Hapsburg were frustrated by the victories of the Swiss at Sem- 
pach (p. 20) in 1386, at Nafels (p. 59) in 1388, and at the Stoss (p. 54) 
in 1405. 

In the Burgundian parts of the country too the nobility were jealous 
of the increasing importance of the towns, and therefore attempted to con- 
quer Bern, but were defeated by the citizens at Laupen (p. 203) in 1339. 

In 1354 a confederacy was formed by eight independent districts and 
towns, which soon became powerful enough to assume the offensive, and 
at length actually wrested the hereditary domain of Hapsburg from the 
dukes of Austria, who tried in vain to recover it. 

Even Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, the mightiest prince of his 
time, was defeated by the Swiss at the three battles of Grandson (1476, 
p. 202), Moral (1476, p. 207), and Nancy, while at an earlier period a large 
body of irregular French and other troops, which had been made over to 
Austria by the King of France, sustained a severe check from the con- 
federates at St. Jacob on the Birs (1444, p. 8). 

In the Swabian war (1499) the bravery and unity of the Swiss achieved 
another triumph in the victory of Dornach (p. 9). At that period their 
independence of the emperor was formally recognised, but they continued 
nominally attached to the empire down to 1648. 

The last-named victory formed a fitting termination to a successful 
career of two centuries, the most glorious in the history of Switzerland. 
At the beginning of the 16th century a period of decline set in. The 
enormous booty captured in the Burgundian war had begotten a taste for 
wealth and luxury, the demoralising practice of serving as mercenary 
troops in foreign lands began to prevail, and a foundation was laid for 
the reproachful proverb, ' Pas d'argent, pas de Suisses ! ' 

The cause of the Reformation under the auspices of Zwingli was 
zealously embraced by a large proportion of the population of Switzerland 
about the beginning of the 16th century; but the bitter jealousies thus 



t The legend of the national hero of Switzerland, as well as the story 
of the expulsion of the Austrian bailiffs in 1308, is destitute of historical 
foundation. No trace of such a person is to be found in the work of John 
of Winterthur (Vitoduranus , 1349) or that of Conrad Justinger of Bern 
(1420), the earliest Swiss historians. Mention is made of him for the first 
time in the Sarner Chronik of 1470, and the myth was subsequently em- 
bellished by .ffigidius Tschudi of Glarus (d. 1542), and still more by Jo- 
hann v. Miiller (d. 1809), while Schiller's famous play has finally secured 
to the hero a world-wide celebrity. Similar traditions are met with among 
various northern nations, such as the Danes and Icelanders. 



xxviii XI. STATISTICS. 

sown between the Roman Catholic and the Reformed Cantons were 
attended with most disastrous consequences, and in the civil wars which 
ensued bloody battles were fought at Kappel (p. 71) in 1531, at VilUnergen 
in 165S, and during the Toggenburg war (p. 58) in 1712. 

Traces of unflinching bravery and of a noble spirit of self-sacrifice in 
the cause of conscience are observable in individual instances even at the 
close of the 18th century, as exampled by the affairs of Rothenthurm 
(p. 99) and Slans (p. 118), but the national vigour was gone. The resist- 
ance of individuals to the invasion of the French republicans proved fruit- 
less, and the Helvetian Republic was founded on the ruins of the ancient 
liberties of the nation. In 1803 Napoleon restored the cantonal system, 
and in accordance with resolutions passed by the Congress of Vienna in 
1815 the constitution was remodelled. The changes introduced in conse- 
quence of the revolution of July, 1830, were unhappily the forerunners of 
the civil war of the Sonderbund, or Separate League, in November, 1847; 
but this was of short duration, and on 12th September, 1848, a new 
federal constitution was inaugurated. Since that period the public tran- 
quillity has been undisturbed, and the prosperity and harmony which now 
prevail throughout the country are not unworthy of the glorious traditions 
of the past. 



Area and Population 

according to the census of 1st Dec. 1888. 







C 


onf ession. 








Sq. 
Leagues 










Totals. 


Cantons. 


Rom.Cath. 


Prot. 


Jews 


Sects 


1. Zurich . . . 


74,8 


40,408 


294,336 


1,416 


2,960 


339,014 


2. Bern .... 


294 


68,246 


468,120 


1,245 


1,694 


539,305 


3. Lucerne . . . 


54 


127,533 


7,939 


215 


93 


135,780 


4. Uri . . . . 


47 


16,892 


378 


3 


11 


17,284 


5. Schwyz . . . 


40 


49,289 


1,097 


2 


8 


50,396 


6. Unterwald . . 


33, 5 


27,096 


457 


— 


3 


27,556 


7. Glarus . . . 


29, 8 


7,790 


25,935 


15 


60 


33,800 


8. Zug . . . ■ 


10, 2 


21,696 


1,394 


18 


12 


23,120 


9. Freiburg . . 


lh l 


100,425 


18,869 


127 


42 


119,562 


10. Soleure . . . 


34, 5 


63,539 


21,898 


154 


125 


85,720 


11. B&le-ville . . 


1,» 


22,402 


50,326 


1,078 


441 


74,247 


Bale-camp. . . 


18,5 


12,961 


48,847 


165 


160 


62,133 


12. Schaffhausen . 


12,9 


4,813 


32,887 


26 


150 


37,876 


13. Appenzell . . 














(Rhodes ext.) . 


10,7 


4,502 


49,555 


26 


117 


54,200 


(Rhodes int.) . 


al' 3 


12,906 


697 


— 


3 


12,906 


14. St. Gallen . . 


87,, 


135,796 


93,705 


575 


365 


229,441 


15. Orisons . . . 


304,! 


43,320 


52,842 


43 


86 


96,291 


16. Aargau . ■ ■ 


60,4 


85,962 


106,414 


1,064 


394 


193,834 


17. Thurgau . ■ 


42.8 


30,337 


74,782 


61 


411 


105,091 


18. Ticino . . . 


121,6 


125,622 


1,079 


13 


434 


127,148 


19. Vaud . ■ ■ 


138,7 


22,428 


227,475 


638 


755 


251,296 


20. Yalais . ■ ■ 


226, 5 


100,925 


865 


3 


44 


101,837 


21. Neuchdtel . . 


34,7 


12,689 


95,040 


774 


534 


109,037 


22. Geneva . ■ ■ 


12,2 


52,692 


51,532 


723 


1,791 


106,738 


Total .... 


1769,8 


1,189,662 


1,724,869 


8,33i 


10,697 


2,933,612 


Census of 1880 . 


— 


1,161,055 


1,666,984 


7,3S0 


10,683 


2,846,102 


Increase . • 


1 - 


28,607 


57,885 


1004 


14 


147,510 



I. NORTHERN SWITZERLAND. 



1. Bale 2 

From Bale through the Birsigthal to Fliihen. Lands- 
kron; Marias tein, 8. 

2. From Bale to Bienne and Bern through the Miinsterthal 9 

From Delemont to Porrentruy. Ascent of the Weissen- 
stein from Jliinster, 10. — From Bevilard over the 
Montoz to Renchenette, 10. The Taubenlochschlucht. 
Macolin, 11. — Ascent of the Chasseral Leuhringen, 12. 

3. From Bale to Bienne via Olten and Soleure .... 12 

From Liestal to Waldenburg; Langenbruck, 12. — The 
Schafmatt ; Eptingen ; the Frohburg, 13. — The Neu-Wart- 
burg ; Fridau, 14. — Lostorf. From Soleure to theWeissen- 
stein, 15. — From Soleure to Burgdorf; to Lyss, 16. 

4. From Bale to Bern via Herzogenbuchsee 17 

From Herzogenbuchsee to Soleure, 17. — From Burg- 
dorf to Langnau, 17. 

5. From Bale to Zurich 18 

From Stein to Koblenz. Kbnigsfelden ; Vindonissa, 18. — 
From Brugg to Wohlen, 19. — From Wettingen to Oer- 
likon, 20. 

6. From Bale to Lucerne 20 

From Zofingen to Suhr, 20. 

7. From Olten to Waldshut via, Aarau and Brugg ... 21 

From Aarau to Muri and Rothkreuz; Bremgarten, 21. — 
From Aarau to Baden. The Habsburg, 22. 

8. From Bale to Schaffhausen and Constance 22 

From Singen to Etzweilen. The Island of P^eichenau, 24. 
— Steamboat from Schaffhausen to Constance, 25. 

9. The Falls of the Rhine 26 

10. From Friedrichshafen to Constance. Lake of Constance 27 

The Mainau, 30. 

11. From Rorschach to Constance and Winterthiir (Zurich) 30 

12. From Schaffhausen to Zurich 32 

13. Zurich and the Uetliberg 32 

14. From Zurich to Coire. Lakes of Zurich and Walenstadt 39 
i. Steamboat on the Lake of Zurich 39 

The Pfannenstiel, 40. 

ii. Railway on the Left (S.) Bank from Zurich to Zie- 

gelbrucke (Glarus) 41 

The Wiiggithal, 41. 

iii. Railway from Zurich to Rapperswil, Weesen, and 

Sargans 42 

The Bachtel, 42. — Rieden, 43. — Biberlikopf ; Amden; 
Speer, 44. — From Miihlehorn over the Kerenzenberg 
to Mollis, 44. — The Murgthal; the Roththor; the Wider- 
stein-Fnrkel and Murgsee-Furkel ; Miirtsehenstock, 45. — 
From Walenstadt over the Kaserruck toWildhaus in the 
Toggenburg. The Alvier, 45. — From Mels through the 
Weisstannen-Thal and Kalfeuser-Thal to Vattis, 46. 

Baedeker, Switzerland. 15th Edition. \ 



2 I. Route 1. BALE. Hotels. 



15. From Zurich to Romanshorn and Friedrichshafen . . 46 

From Oerlikon to Dielsdorf; Eegensberg, 46. — From 
Winterthur to Waldshut, 40. — From Winterthur to 
Riiti (Tbssthal Railway), 47. — From Frauenfeld to Wyl, 
47. — From Sulgen to Gossau, 47. 

16. From Zurich to St. Gallen, Rorschach, and Lindau . 47 

From Winkeln to Appenzell, 48. — Excursions from St. 
Gallen; the Freudenberg ; Untere and ObereWaid, etc., 49. 

— Excursions from Rorschach; the Martinstobel; the 
Mottelischloss ; Walzenhausen ; Meldegg; Horn, 50. — 
Excursions from Lindau, 51. 

17. The Canton of Appenzell 51 

Chapel of St.Anthony ;the Kaien,V6gelisegg, 53. — Giibris ; 
Stoss, 54. — From the Weissbad over the Hohe Kasten 
to the Valley of the Rhine, 55. — The Wildkirchli and 
Ebenalp, 55. — The Sentis, 56. — From the Weissbad 
to Wildhaus ; Altmann ; Teufen ; Frolichsegg, 57. 

18. From Wyl through the Toggehburg to Buchs in the 
Rhine Valley 58 

Ascent of the Speer from Ebnat or Nesslau. From 
Nesslau over the Krazern Pass to Urnascb, 58. 

19. From Zurich to Glarus and Linththal 59 

The Rautispitz, 59. — The Scheye ; Schild; Fronalp- 
stock, 60. — Oberblegisee; Saasberg and Karpfstock,61. 

— Excursions from Stachelberg, 62. — The Pantenbriicke, 
Uelialp, Upper Sandalp, and TSdi, etc., 62, 63. — From 
Linththal over the Kisten-Pass to Ilanz, 63. 

20. From Stachelberg to Altdorf. Klausen 63 

21. From Schwyz to Glarus over the Pragel 65 

From the Muottathal to Altdorf over the Kinzig Pass, 
and to Stachelberg by the Bisithal, 65. — The Glar- 
nisch, 66. 

22. From Glarus to Coire through the Sernf-Thal. ... 07 

From Elm over the Segnes Pass to Flims ; over the 
Panixer Pass or the Sether Furka to Ilanz, 68. — From 
Elm over the Ramin Pass to Weisstannen. 68. — From 
Elm over the Sardona Pass, the Scheibe Pass, or the 
Muttenthaler Grat to Vattis, 68. — From Elm over the 
Richetli Pass to Linththal, 68. 



1. Bale. 

Railway Stations. The Baden Station (PI. F, 1), at Klein-Basel, 
is on the right bank of the Rhine. The Baden (middle European) time 
is 30 min. in advance of the Swiss. — The Alsace and the Swiss lines 
both start from the Central Station (PI. D, E, 6) in Bale, on the S. side 
of the town. These two stations are connected by a junction-line, crossing 
the river (10 min. ; fares 1 fr., 70 c, 50 c). Omnibus, see p. 3. 

Hotels. "Trois Rois (PI. a ; D, 2, 3), on the Rhine, R., L., & A. 41/2-6V2, 
B. l'/s, D. 5, omn. 1 fr. At the Central Station, to the right : "'Hotel Na- 
tional (PI. d; E, 6), R., L., &. A. 3i/ 2 -4 fr. ; "Hotel Soisse (PI. c; E, 61, R. 
& A. 3'/ 2 -4V2, D. 4-5 fr. ; these two of the tirst class ; "Hotel Victoria fPl. e ; 
E, 6), R., L., & A. from 3y 2 , D. 31/2-4 fr. ; "Hotel St. Gotthard , R., L., 
& A. 3, D. 3 fr. To the left of the station: "Hotel Edler (PI. 1, ; i>, (y, 
B., h., & A. 4'/2 GV2. omnibus 1 fr., first-class ; 'Hotel Hofer (PI. f ; D, C), 
i:.&A.2'/2-3'/2, 1'.l'/tfr. ; "Hotel Jdra, small. — In the town: *Faucon (Pl.g; 
1), 6), corner of the Elisabethen-Str., R. 2-3, B. 1 fr. ; 'Mktropoi.e PI. h) 
U, 4), li.&A. 2'/2, IS. l'/ifr.;8AUVAGK(Pl. i;D, 4), well Broken of; •Cigoone 



Bridges. BALE. /. Route 1. 3 

(Pi. k ; D, 3), E. & A. 2'/*, D. 3 fr. ; Hotel Central (PI. o; D, 4), opposite 
the post-office; Couronne (PI. 1; D, 3), »Bellevue (PI. m ; D, 3), both on the 
Rhine; "'Post (PI. n; D, 3, 4). — At Klein-Basel: *H6tel Krafft (PI. p; 

E, 3), R. &A. 3, B. li/i, D. 3 fr., .Croix Blanche (PI. q; E, 3), R. & A. 
2V2-3fr., both on the Rhine; H3tel de BXle (PI. r; F, 2), R. & A. 3, B. 
l'A fr. ; *H6tel Sohrieder (PI. g ; F, 1), near the Baden Station, R. 3, B. 

Cafes. Trois Rois, on the Rhine; Kunsthalle; *Sladt-Casino, also good 
restaurant ; Cafe" National, also restaurant, by the old bridge, with a terrace 
overlooking the Rhine. — Confectioners (who sell 'Basler Leckerli'): Wirz, 
near the old bridge; Kissling-Kuentzy, Freie-Str. 19; Burckhardt, Steiger, 
both in the Schneidergasse; fforter, at Klein-Basel; etc. 

Restaurants. At the "Central Station; "Casino (see above); Bertrand, 
JIarkt-Platz; Bierhalle zum Parsifal, Freie-Str. 49 (Munich beer); Biihler's 
Bierhalle, Steinensuburb, in the 'old German' style, good cooking (in summer, 
Biihler's Biergarten, in the Sternengasslein). Wine at the Veltlinerhalle, Freie- 
Str., and at the Schiltzenhaus (good stained glass). — In Klein-Basel: at the 
Baden Station; Burgvogtei, with a 'Bierhalle' and garden ; Warteck Brewery, 
near the Baden station; Oeschger, Riehenthor-Str. 27. — "Sommer- Casino (PI. 

F, 6), near the St. Jacob Monument (p. 8), with a pleasant garden, mnsic 
on Wed. and Frid. at 7.30, on Sun. at 6 p.m. (50 c.) ; concerts also at the 
Erlen-Park, l'/4 M. from Klein-Basel, and in the Zoological Garden (p. 8). 

Omnibus (Stadtomnibus) between the Central and Baden Stations, cross- 
ing the Alte Brucke (20 c). — Cabs. For 1/4 hr., 1-2 persons, 80 c. ; second 'U 
hr. 60, each additional '/4 hr. 50 c. ; 3-4 pers. 1 fr. 20 c, the second '/4 hr. 90, 
each additional •/« hr. 70 c. From either station into the town, 1-2 pers. 
1 fr. 20 c. , 3-4 pers. 1 fr. 80 c. ; from one station to the other 1-2 pers. l'/z, 
3-4 pers. 2'/2 fr., each box 20 c. extra. At night (10 p.m. to 6 a.m.) 3fr. 
for the first '/« hr. and 1 fr. for each additional >/< hr. , and 10 c. per '/< 
hr. for lights. 

Post and Telegraph Offices (PI. D, 4) in the Freien-Str.; at the railway- 
stations ; in the Johannes suburb; and at the Schiitzengraben. 

Baths in the Rhine (PI. E, 3, 4), entered from the Ffalz (p. 5), 1 fr. 
Warm baths : Stauffer-Schmid, Martinsgasse; Sigmund, Leonhard-Str. ; Zum 
Brunnen, Fischmarkt. 

Zoological Garden (p. 8) ; admission >/2 fr. 

Picture Gallery (1/2 fr.) in the new Kunsthalle on the Steinenberg (p. 8) ; 
another at Lang's, Freie-Str. 

English Church Service in a chapel at the Hotel des Trois Rois. 

Bale, or Basel (870'), the capital of the half-canton Bale-Ville 
or Basel-Stadt (pop. 82,431), is first mentioned in the year 374 
under the name of Basilea, having prohahly been founded by the 
Roman armies, when they fell back on the Rhine, near the old Colonia 
Augusta Rauracorum, which had been established in B. C. 27 by 
L. Munatius Plancus (now Basel- Augst, 5!/ 2 M - t0 tne E. , see 
p. 18). In the middle ages Bale was a free town of the Empire, 
and it has been a member of the Swiss Confederation since 1501. 

The principal town lies on the left bank of the Rhine, and is 
connected with Klein -Basel by three bridges. The wooden Alte 
Brucke (PI. D, E, 3), 165 yds. in length and 16 yds. in breadth, 
is partly supported by stone piers. In the middle of the bridge rise 
a chapel of the 16th cent, and a column with a barometer and 
weather-cock. Above the old bridge the river is crossed by the 
iron Wettstein Bridge (PI. F, 4), completed in 1879, with three 
spans 200 ft. in width. At each end of the bridge are two basilisks, 
the heraldic symbol of Bale. Below the old bridge is the five- 

1 * 



4 I. Route 1. BALE. Munster. 

arched Johanniter Bridge (PI. D, 1), completed in 1882, -which 
commands a fine view. 

The *Munster (PI. E, 4), a picturesque edifice of red sand- 
stone , with two conspicuous towers , was formerly the cathedral 
of the see of Bale. The bishopric, founded by Charlemagne, 
was transferred, in consequence of the puritanical outrages, to 
Porrentruy (p. 10) in 1529, and afterwards to Soleure (p. 14). 
The Munster was built by the Emp. Henry II. in 1010-1019, 
and was restored in 1185 after a fire. In 1356 the old building was 
almost demolished by an earthquake, but it was afterwards rebuilt 
in the Gothic style. The Towers, which are 218' in height, were 
not completed till 1500. Of the original structure the N. portal, or 
-St. Oallus gateway (built about 1200), still exists, and is adorned 
with statues of the Evangelists, John the Baptist, and other saints; 
over the church-door is a relief representing the wise and foolish 
virgins; at the sides in six niches are the works of charity, and at 
the top Christ on the Judgment-seat and the angels at the last day. 
The W. Front under the towers, with the principal portal and two 
side-entrances, belongs to the 14th cent . ; on the facade are represented 
the Virgin and Child, and under them the Emp. Henry, the founder 
and benefactor of the church, with the Empress Kunigunde ; on the 
two side-entrances are two knights, on the left St. George and the 
Dragon, and on the right St. Martin. The exterior has recently 
undergone a thorough restoration. 

The Interior is open to the public in summer on Wed., 2-4 p.m.; 
at other times 50 c. (mediaeval collection and council-hall 50 c. extra, see 
below). The sacristan lives in the Miinsterplatz No. 13, hut in summer he 
is generally to he found in the church (knock). The church, which is 71 
yds. long and 35>/2 yds. wide, was skilfully restored in 1852-56, and is 
embellished with good modern stained glass. The beautiful rood-loft of 1381 
serves to support the large new organ. The pulpit dates from 1486. The aisles 
and choir contain old monuments and tombstones built into the walls. In the 
K. aisle is a Gothic sacerdotal chair of the 14th cent. ; we also observe a 
curious relief of the 11th cent, (martyrdom of St. Vincent). The font is of 
1465 ; on the pillar opposite is the tombstone of the learned Erasmus of 
Rotterdam (d. 1536), with a long Latin inscription. In the retro-choir are 
monuments of the Empress Anna (d. 1281), consort of Rudolph of Hapsburg 
and mother of Albert I. , and of her youngest son Charles. The crypt 
is now occupied by the stoves used in heating the church. — In 1431 
the great Council began to sit in the Munster. It consisted of upwards of 
500 clergymen, including many great dignitaries, whose ostensible task 
was a 'reformation of the Church in head and members'; hut after having 
disputed for years without any result, and having been excommunicated 
by Pope Eugene IV., it was at last dissolved in 1448. 

The <! Medieeval Collection, which occupies the three floors of the building 
adjoining the church, is very interesting (open to the puhlic on Sun. 10.30 
to 12.30; at other times adm. '/s fr., on application at Munster-Platz 13- 
illustrated catalogue in French and German, V2 fr., recommended to 
other than hasty visitors, as the attendants cannot give full information). 

Ground Floor. Chapel of St. Nicholas : antiquities of the flint period- 
architectural fragments chietly from churches of Bale; and the '■Lallen- 
k«nig\ a curious piece of mechanism not older than the end of the 17th 
cent., formerly on the exterior of the tower (removed in 1S.'3'.I) of the 
Rhine bridge. The later story that this head was erected in derision of 



Museum. BALE. I. Route 1. 5 

the Austrians to whom Klein-Basel was pledged in 1375-92 is a mere 
myth. — The Waffenhalle, or armoury, contains the chief curiosities 
of the arsenal of Bale; in the middle are interesting cannon of the 
•15th and 16th cent. ; to the right, by the window, a suit of armour 
supposed to have belonged to Charles the Bold. — A winding staircase 
ascends to the rooms of the Fikst Flook. In the Conciliums-Saal, or 
council-hall, the Council of Bale held their sittings in 1431-48. Along the 
walls are arranged numerous casts of mouldings from churches of Bale ; 
also eighteen fragments of the famous "Death Dance of Bale, a fresco 
which once adorned the wall of the Dominican burial-ground (taken down 
in 1805), painted early in the 15th century. On a long table in the centre 
are models of buildings in Bale and of castles in the environs ; large winged 
'Altar by B. Strigel of Memmingen (1512). — "We next enter the Saal fiir 
Profanarchitectur, which contains panels, tiles, stone slabs, and other 
fragments from houses in Bale and other parts of Switzerland. — In the 
following room, the Saal fiir Hausalterthilmer, is a collection of mediaeval 
furniture, tapestry, porcelain, glass, jewel- caskets , and other articles 
for domestic use. Beyond these is the "Dining - room of the Counsellor 
Lucas Iselin, of Bale, with rich panelling in the choicest woods, 
dating from 1607. The adjoining Gothic Room of 1460 contains a large 
bedstead of 1510 and other Gothic furniture. "Figures of Adam and Eve, 
carved in box-wood (about 1500). — Two vaulted rooms on this floor 
are devoted to the illustration of the history of Handicrafts: in the first 
are fine specimens of *Iron work, bindings of books, "Goldsmiths' models, 
etc. ; in the second, the ecclesiastical treasures remaining after the division 
of the canton in 1833, large guild-vessels, gold ornaments irom churches 
of Bale, fragments of stoves, and a collection of tiles. — Halfway up 
to the next floor is a kind of gallery containing a collection of Domestic and 
Kitchen Utensils, chiefly from mediseval Bale. 

Second Floor. The Saal fiir Musikalische Alterthumer contains interest- 
ing specimens of old musical instruments, showing in particular the deve- 
lopment of the piano and wooden wind-instruments. — In the Saal fiir 
kirchliche Alterthumer are altars, carved wood, bronzes, and an enamelled 
bronze "Votive Tablet presented by Duchess Isabella of Burgundy in 1433. — 
The Saal fur Costume is chiefly devoted to Bale costumes of the 17th and 
18th centuries. — Lastly, the Saal fur Rechts- und Staatsalterthiimer con- 
tains the weights and measures of Bale of the 14-18th centuries. 

On the S. side of the choir are extensive ^Cloisters, constructed 
in the 15th cent., restored in 1869-73, and used until recently as 
family burial-places. They extend to the Pfalz, a terrace behind the 
Miinster, 65 ft. above the Khine , planted with chestnuts, and 
affording a pleasing survey of the green river and the distant hills 
of the Black Forest, the outliers of the Jura, and (in clear weather) 
of the Vosges. Behind the Miinster, on the "W. side of the cloisters, 
is a statue of (Ecolampadius ; and in the neighbourhood (Baumlein- 
gasse 18) is the house of Froben and Erasmus. 

In the Augustinergasse, which descends from the Miinsterplatz 
towards the N.W. to the bridge, is the *Museum (PI. E, 3; open 
on Sun., 10.15-12.30, and in summer on Wed., 2-4 o'clock; engrav- 
ings, Thurs. and Sat., 2-5; at other times fee 50 c. for 1 or 2 
persons, 25 c. for each additional pers.), containing a natural history 
collection, a picture-gallery and a collection of antiquities. 

The Picture Gallery (on the upper floor) is chiefly interesting on account 
of its collection of paintings and drawings by the younger Holbein (b. at 
Augsburg 1497, d. in London 1543), who lived at Bale in 1515-26 and 1528-32. 
The Staibcase is adorned with frescoes of Gsea, Flora, and Apollo by Bbcklin, 
cartoons by Cornelius., Schnorr, and Steinle, stained glass, and a statue of 



6 /. Route 1. BALE. Museum. 

Jason with the golden fleece, in marble, by Schloth. "178. Benner, Street 
in Capri. — Ante-Eoom. Seven fragments of Holbein's obliterated frescoes 
in the Council Chamber and old and modern copies from them ; painted 
organ-shutters from the Miinster, by Holbein. — Room to the left. 
Modern Swiss Masters. To the left: Bbcklin, 10. Lady with a green veil, 
15. Life a dream, *11. Pieta. "14. Naiads, "12. Battle of Centaurs; 27. Ed. 
Girardet, Fortune-teller; *21. Zund, Forest landscape with the Prodigal 
Son; "43. Stefan, Forest landscape; Bocklin, "43. Sacred grove, "9. Diana 
hunting; 20. Zilnd, Harvest; 37. Barzaghi-Cattaneo, Tasso and Leonora; 
Diethelm Meyer, 44. Girl of the Haslitha], 45. Girl of the Valais; 59. Corrodi, 
Gondola party; 26. Ed. Oirardet, Wounded Turcos; 49. Staebli, River scene; 

54. Ruedisiihli, Marshy ground; 46. Tobkr, The happy mother; 79. Burnat, 
Sheep ; 75. E. de Fury, Among the Lagoons ; Van Muyden, 29. Italian street 
scene, 30. Italian woman with child ; 35. Gleyre, Pentheus pursued by the 
Meenads; *1. A. Calame, Evening landscape; Roller, 32, 33. Cows at water, 
31. Horses on a road through a dale; 25. E. Girardet, Barber's shop ; 74. 
Arthur Calame, Landscape by moonshine ; 57. Caslan, Harvest ; "18. Anker, 
Children's breakfast; Vautier, "16. Rustic debtor compelled by a rich 
neighbour and his agent to sell his property, *17. The involuntary con- 
fession; 8. Sliickelberg, Earthquake at Bale; "23. Ziind, Noon; 24. Ed. Gi- 
rardet, Snow-balling; Stiickelberg , "7. The painter's children, :; 6. Marionettes, 
"5. Festival of St. Mary in the Sabine Mts. ; "2, 3. Calame, Forest landscapes ; 
78. Monteverde, Vine-wreath; 38. Barzaghi- Cattaneo , Lady performing 
music; .'9. Anker, Quack; 36. Gleyre, Nymph; 50. S. Durand, Wandering 
musicians; 51. Bachmann, Christmas singers in the Canton of Lucerne; 

55. Ruedisiihli, Rocky scenery. — "Drawings. The cabinets contain 
a rich collection. On the walls: 5-13. Schongauer ; 15-27 a. H. Holbein 
the Elder; "30-32. A. Diirer; 33. H. Schaufelein ; 34. H. Sebald Beham; "37- 
41. H. Baldung Grien; "44-53 and 58. Nidi. Manuel Deutsch; 54-57. Urs 
Graf; ""61-138 and 142. H. Holbein the Younger. Among the last should 
particularly be observed: 111. Family of Sir Thomas More (presented to 
Erasmus), 113. Combat of foot-soldiers, 114. Samuel and Saul, 123-128. 
Feminine costumes of Bale, 91-100. The Passion. Then: 139-141. Ambrose 
Holbein; "152. Nich. Glockendon; 158. Rembrandt ; 160. Raphael. In a glass- 
case the original of Holbein's Praise of Folly. — Large Saloon, N. end 
(view towards the Blauen in fine weather). Continuation of Modern 
Swiss Masters, (left) "80. Gos, Storm in the Seflnen Valley; 64. Veillon, 
Lagoons of Venice; 76. Frblicher, Spring landscape; 48. Grob, Pestalozzi; 
52. Preiswerk, Landscape with Satyrs ; 63. Bosshardt, Hans von Hallwyl at 
the battle of Morat; "39. Barzaghi -Cattaneo, Fiesco; 62. Buchser, Capu- 
chins and worldlings; 67. Niakrhausern, Pond near Grenoble; 297. Frei, 
Forest landscape in the Roman mountains; 61. Buchser, Rapids of Sault 
Ste. Marie, Canada ; 68. David, Capri ; 299. Hauser, Fr. ( ivurlicck ; 42. Steffan, 
Mountain landscape; 28. Ed. Girardet, Arab drinking coffee; "69. Bocion, 
The harbour of Ouchy; "65. Humbert, Cattle watering; "40. Zwengauer, 
Sunset; 41. Steffan, Mountain landscape. — Large Saloon, 1st section. 
H. Holbein the Younger, 6a. and 6b. Schoolmaster's signboard of 1516; -7. 
Erasmus; 10. The burgomaster Jacob Meyer and his wife; "11. Last 
Supper; 12. Adam and Eve; 13. Ecce Homo; ""14. The Passion in eight 
separate scenes, formerly in the Rathhaus; "15. The dead body of Christ, 
of startling realism; '"16. Portrait of Boniface Amerbach; 17. Erasmus; 
"18. Lais Corinthiaca, the portrait of a lady of the noble family of 
Offenburg; 19. The same lady with Cupid; "20. Wife and children of 
the painter; 21. A London merchant. 23, 24. Ambrose Holbein, Portraits 
of boys; M. Grunewald , 32. Crucifixion, 33. Resurrection; Hans Baldung 
Grien, 34. Crucifixion, 35. Nativity, '3B, "37. Pictures with figures of 
Death; 41-43. N. Manuel Deutsch; 58, 59. Tob. Slimmer, Full-length por- 
traits of Jac. Schwytzer and his wife (1564). — 2nd Section. 65-72. School 
of Gerrit van St. Jans; Dutch Masters of the 15th cent., 73. Pius Joachim, 
74. Coronation of the Virgin; 89. Strigel, St. Anna; 101-3. Lucas Cranach 
the Elder; 109. H. met de Bles('l), Adoration of the Magi. Fine old inlaid 
council table. — 3rd Section. "118. Rubens, Christ bearing the cross (a 
sketch); "124. Peter Thys, Pieta; 125. Dirk van Sandvoort, Woman sin'ing 



Bathhaus. BALE. I. Route 1 . 7 

and flute player ; 126. J. B. Weenix, Italian landscape ; 131. Tenters the 
Younger, Dutch peasant's room; 136. Wouverman, Horses and ass; 137. 
Karel du Jardin, Trumpeter on horseback; 138. Berghem. Cattle crossing 
a ford; 139. G. Dusart, Rustic scene; 140. Fr. Mieris, Fishmonger; 144. 
Rombouts, Forest scene; 145. Becker, Landscape ; 146. S. Ruysdael, Landscape ; 
*156. Butch Master, Forest scene; 165. Old copy of Raphael's Joanna of 
Aragon. — 5th Section. 265. Jos. Koch, Macbeth and the witches; Leopold 
Robert , 288. Bandits' wives in flight , 289. Wounded bandit and his wife ; 
290. Aur. Robert, Interior of St. Mark's at Venice; 292-296. J. Frey, South- 
ern landscapes; ''300. Biday, Scene on the Lake of Brienz; 35. Landerer, 
Federal representatives entering Bale in 1501 to administer the federal 
oath to the town; 306. Lessing, Forest landscape; 307. Feuerbach, Idyl. — 
Sculptures in the picture-gallery : Antique heads of Apollo and Hercules; 
Imhof, Rebecca; Kissling, Runner; Schloeth, Psyche (marble statues). — 
Modern Drawings. 2-23. Hess, Schraudolph, and /. C. Koch, Cartoons for 
the frescoes in St. Boniface at Munich ; cartoons by Overbed (26-35), Schwind 
(36-40), Genelli (41,43), /. C. Koch (59, 50), Cornelius (51, 52; drawings for 
the Last Judgment), etc. In the centre a "Relief of the Jun'gfrau in the 
scale of 1 : 10,000, by a. Simon. 

Collection of Antiquities. In the first room are casts, coins and 
medals, and a handsome antique cabinet. In the next room are vases, 
mosaics, and other antiquities, chiefly found near Angst (p. 3). On the 
ground-floor a room containing Mexican, Chinese, and Japanese antiqui 
ties; in the following room are various objects from lake-dwellings. 

The University Library in the same building (open 10-12 and 2-4) 
contains about 200,000 vols, and 5000 MSS. ; among the latter are 
the transactions of the Council, writings of Luther, Melanchthon, etc. 
The University (350 students) , founded in 1459 by Pius II. , was 
once famous for its mathematicians Bernoulli, Merian, and Euler. 
The hall contains upwards of 100 portraits of scholars of Bale, 
including the cosmographer Sebastian Miinster (d. 1552), the re- 
formers (Ecolampadius and Orynaeus, and the theologians De Wette 
(d. 1849) and Ate. Vinet (d. 1847). In front of the aula are ten mar- 
ble busts, by Schloth, of professors of Bale of the present century. 

The Rathhaus (PL D, 3), or Town Hall, in the Markt - Platz 
(No. 13), was erected in 1504, and restored in 1824-28. The hand- 
some *Council Hall in the interior is adorned with carvings and 
stained glass. The court contains a Statue of Munatius Plancus 
(p. 3), erected here in 1580. 

The old fortifications have been almost entirely removed , and 
their site converted into promenades ; but the handsome Spalen- 
Thor (Pi. C, 3), on the W. side of the town, erected about the 
year 1400, the St. Albansthor (PI. a, 5) on the S. , and the St. 
Johannthor (PI. C, 1) on the N., have been restored. Near the first 
of these, to the right, is the Vesalianum (PI. C, 3), the new Uni- 
versity institute for anatomy and physiology ; and to the N.W. is 
the Bernoullianum (PI. C, 2, 3), also belonging to the University, 
an edifice for the study of physios, chemistry, aud astronomy. In 
the Hebel-Str., near the latter, is the house where the poet Hebel 
(1760-1826) was born, with a tablet. 

Other Medlzeval Strtjctuebs deserving mention are the late-Go- 
thic Fishmarket Fountain (PI. D, 3), of the 15th cent., restored in 
1851 ; the Spalen Fountain, with a bagpiper supposed to have been 



8 I. Route 1. BALE. 

designed by Holbein ; the Rebhaus Fountain, in the Riehenthor- 
Strasse (PI. F, 3); and the Roman archway in the old St. Alban's 
Monastery (PI. F, 4). — The Barfiisser-Kirche (PI. D, E, 4), dating 
from the beginning of the 14th cent., with its very lofty choir, is 
now used as a storehouse. — The Church of St. Martin (PI. D, 3), 
was restored in 1851, when the choir was skilfully adapted as a 
Protestant place of worship — The large Gothic (Rom. Cath.) Church 
of St. Clara (PI. E, 2) at Klein-Basel has been recently restored. 
Foremost among the Modbkn Buildings of Bale is the Gothic 
*St. Elisahethenkirche (PI. E, 5), erected by Hr. Merian-Burck- 
hardt (d. 1858). The interior is worth seeing, especially the fine 
stained glass from Munich. — Near it, on the Steinenberg, is the 
Xunsthall^ (PI. E, 5; built by Stehlin; adm. 50 c), containing a 
collection of modern pictures and sculptures. Connected with it are 
a large garden and a restaurant, the latter adorned with good mural 
paintings by Brihiner. On the staircase are frescoes by Stiickelberg. 
Between the St. Elisahethenkirche and the Kunsthalle is the new 
Sculpturhalle, containing plaster-casts. Next the Kunsthalle is the 
Theatre, opposite which is the Musiksaal, both designed by Stehlin. 

The Zoological Garden (PL B, C, 6) , adjoining the 'Nachti- 
gallenwaldchen', outside the site of the Steinenthor, and about 3 /4 M. 
from the Central Station (adm. V2-I fr.), contains admirable 
examples of Swiss (mountain goats) and other animals. Concerts 
are frequently given on Sun. afternoons. 

The Monument of St. Jacob (PI. F, 6), near the Sommer- Casino 
(p. 3), by F. Schlblh, completed in 1872, commemorates the heroism and 
death of 1300 Confederates who opposed the Armagnac invaders under 
the Dauphin (afterwards Lnuis XI.) in 1444. Above is Helvetia in armour, 
with a wreath ; on the pedestal are four falling warriors in marble. In- 
scription: 'Our souls to God, our bodies to the enemy!'. 

The Missionary Institutions of Bale are deservedly in high repute. 
The Mission House (PI. B, 3) educates missionaries for the promulgation 
of Christianity. It contains an interesting ethnographical collection from 
the E. Indies and W. Africa, and two large models of the Temple area 
and Great Mosque at Jerusalem. — In the neighbourhood are several 
charitable institutions : the Deaf and Dumb Asylum at Riehen, 3 M. to 
the N.E., the missionary institution on the Chrischona (1722'), 4 M. to the E., 
with splendid view , and the Reformatory at Beuggen , 12 51. to the E. 
(p. 23). — An excellent Society for the Promotion of the Public Welfare, 
which has existed at Bale for more than a century, has a very extensive 
sphere of operation. 

Fkom Bale to Fluhen, 8 M., steam-tramway in 50 min. (fares 1 fr. 30, 
95c). The train, starting from the Steinenthor-Str. (PI. D, 5), passes the 
Zoological Garden (see above), and traverses the fertile valley of the Birsig. 
Stations: l'/« M. Binningen ("Hirsch; "Bar), a large village with 4700 inhab. 
and the church of St. Margaret, commanding a good view; l 3 /4 M. Boit- 
minger-Miihle ; 2 1 /* M. Bottmingen, with the Bottminger Schlbsschen (Inn and 
pretty park); 3 M. Oberwyl ("Krone), with an extensive parquetry-factory; 
4V4 M. Therwil (Rb'ssli), a substantial village in the Leimenthul. The line 
now bends to the S. to (5 l /» M.) Ettingen (Badhaus), with a chalybeate 
spring, and thence skirts the hills to the right via Witlerswyl and Battwyl 
to (8 M.) Fluhen (1250'; Inn and Baths), a small village with a chalybeate 
spring, prettily situated in a defile at the foot of the Blauen. Interesting 
excursion hence via Tannuald to the (l'/a M.) well-preserved ruin of 'Lands- 



MUNSTERTHAL. /. Route 2. 9 

kron (1890 ft.)> the tower of which commands a wide view (key at the 
last house in Tannwald). — A road leads to the S. from Fliihen to (li/ 2 M.) 
Mariastein (1685' ; Kreuz ; Post), formerly a Benedictine ahbey, with a fre- 
quented pilgrimage-church, picturesquely situated on a steep crag. A spacious 
rock cavern beneath the church contains the chapel of Maria im Stein. From 
Mariastein the Landskron may be reached via Tannwald in 25 minutes. — 
The road goes on beyond Mariastein to Metzerlen and (2*/4 M.) Burg (1735'; 
*Inn), a charmingly-situated village with a mineral spring and a chateau 
commanding fine views. — The Blauen (2690'), which may be ascended 
from Ettingen (p. 8) or Mariastein in l'/a hr., commands a wide prospect, 
extending on the S.E. to the Bernese Alps. 

2. From Bale to Bienne and Bern through the 
Munsterthal. 

77 M. Railway (Juva-Simplon Line) to Bienne (56 M.) in 3-4 hrs. (fares 
9fr. 30, 6fr.65, 4fr. 75 c); from Bienne to Bern (21 M.) in l-iy 4 hr. (fares 
3fr. 55, 2fr. 50, 1 fr. 80 c). [Railway from Bienne to Keuchatel (20 M.) in 
3/4- l'A hr.; to Geneva (102 M.) in 5i/4-7'/4 hrs.; from Bale to Geneva, 
express in 7 3 /4 hrs. Through-carriages to Geneva and St. Maurice.] 

The Munsterthal, watered by the Birs , is the grandest and most in- 
teresting valley in the Jura range. It consists of a succession of defiles 
and narrow gorges, with pine-clad banks, while the broader basins are en- 
livened with meadows, villages, mills, and factories. This valley, which 
belongs to the ancient bishopric of Bale, afforded the Romans a route 
between Aventicum (Avenches, see p. 207), the most important town of Hel- 
vetia, and Augusta Rauracorum (Augst, see p. 3), one of their advanced 
posts on the Rhine. 

B&le (870'), see p. 2. Leaving the Central Station, the train 
soon diverges from the Central Line (p. 12) to the right, passes the 
cemetery on the right, and near (3 M.) Mbnchenstein crosses the 
Bits. On the hills to the left are several ruined castles. — 5 M. 
Domach-Arlesheim (Munzinger's Restaurant). On a wooded hill, 
IV2 M. to theE., near Arlesheim (1130 ft.; Lowe; Ochs), rises 
Schloss Birseck, once a chateau of the bishops of Bale, with a pleasant 
park, interesting grottoes, and a hermitage. (Apply to the gardener 
at the foot of the hill.) 

The train follows the right bank of the Birs. On the left is the 
village of Dornach, with its picturesque ruined castle. 7 M. Aesch 
(Ochs), a village on the left bank. The valley contracts. The train 
passes through a tunnel under the modernised chateau of Angen- 
8tein, and enters the canton of Bern. On a hill to the right is the 
picturesque ruin of Pf 'effing en (1850'). On the right, near (97 4 M.) 
Grellingen (*Bar), are several factories. The train passes through a 
deep cutting and crosses the Birs twice; the valley then expands. 
Schloss Zwingen, on the right, was the seat of the episcopal governors 
of the district, down to the first French revolution. 

W1/2 M. Laufen(1155'; H6t. Jura; Sonne) lies at the confluence 
of the Liitzel and Birs. The train traverses a narrow, wooded valley. 
Beyond (16 M.) Barschwyl it passes through two tunnels and 
crosses the Birs twice. I872M. Liesberg. At (22 l /2 M.) Saugern, 
Fr. Soyhieres (Hotel de la Gare) the language changes from German 
to French. On the right is the ruined castle of that name. At the 



10 I. Route 2. MUNSTER. From Bale 

rocky egress of the valley, before its expansion into a broad plain, 
lies Bellerive, on the left, now a factory. On a hill to the right is the 
ruin of Vorburg. 

241/2 M. Del6mont, Ger. Delsberg (1430'; *Faucon; Lion d'Or; 
Hotel de la Oare, at the station ; Rail. Restaurant) is an old town 
(3638 inhab.) on the Some, with a chateau of the former Bishops 
of Bale. 

From DelSmont to Porkentruy, 18 M., railway in a /t-V/t hr. (fares 
3 fr. 65, 2 fr. 15, 1 fr. 50 c). The line traverses the grassy valley of the 
Some. Stations Courletelle , Courfaivre , Bassecourt, and (7Vz M.) Glovelier. 
We next cross the large viaduct of Combe-Maran, and beyond a tunnel, 
3200 yds. in length, and two others, reach (11 31.) Ste. Ursanne ('Deux 
Clefs; Boeuf), a picturesque old town in the romantic valley of the Doubs 
(p. 198), with a ruined chateau on a lofty rock. Another tunnel pierces 
the Mont Terrible. Stat. Courgenay. Then (18 M.) Porrentruy, Ger. Prun- 
trut (1455'; "Ours; "Cheval Blanc), a considerable old town (6509 inhab.) 
with a chateau, once the residence of the Bishops of Bale. At RicUre, 7 M. 
to the W. of Porrentruy, near the French frontier, a large stalactite grotto 
has recently been discovered and made accessible. — The line leads hence 
to Belle, the French frontier-station, Bel/ort, and Paris (express from Bale 
to Paris in 9 hrs. 22 niin.). 

The line traverses the valley towards the S.E. , and beyond 
(26Y2 M.) Courrendlin, Ger. Rennendorf (Cerf), enters the *Mun- 
sterthal, Fr. Val Moutier, a wild, romantic ravine of the Birs, flanked 
with huge limestone rocks. The line is carried through these 'Gorges 
de Moutier by means of a series of tunnels, galleries, and viaducts. 
(A walk from Courrendlin to Miinster is recommended.) Above 
(28Y2 M-) Ohoindez, and opposite the Glass Works of Roche, which 
lie on the right bank of the stream, we traverse a tunnel, 100 yds. 
in length, and reach (29ty 2 M.) Roche (1650'; *Cheval Blanc, 
moderate). The train threads five short tunnels in rapid succession, 
crosses the Birs by a lofty bridge, and then, at the mouth of the 
defile, the Rausbach. 

32 M. Munster, Fr. Moutier (1730' ; *H6tel de la Gare, moderate) 
The thriving village (1750'; *Cerf; Couronne; Cheval, well spoken 
of), with 2346 inhab. and a new Protestant church, is prettily sit- 
uated in a green dale, on the left bank of the Birs. 

Ascent of the Weissenstein from Munster (3>/2 hrs.; comp. p. 15). 
About 10 min. to the N.E. of Munster, or 6 rain, from the station, at the 
Restaurant Speriien (good beer), a road (diligence to St. Joseph daily in 
1 hr.) ascends to the right to (2 31.) Oranfelden (Fr. Grandval, 2010') and 
(V4 M.) Crimine (2065'; Croix). It next ascends the gorge of the Raus to 
(2 31.) St. Joseph am Gansbrunncn (Inn), at the N. base of the Weissen- 
stein, the Kurhaus on which (p. 15) may easily be reached hence by the 
road in l 3 /4-2 hrs. The footpath to the left is shorter (li/ii hr.). (Carriage 
from Munster to the Weissenstein 25 fr., there and back 30 fr. ; from Gans- 
brunnen 15 fr.) 

The line traverses another wild and very picturesque gorge, 
the Roches de Court , high above the Birs , and beyond a long 
tunnel reaches (35 V2 M.) Court (2200'; Ours; Couronne). 

From Court, or better from Bivilard (see below), a steep path crosses 
the Montoz (4370 1 ) to (3 hrs.) Revchenelte (p. 11; guide advisable). View 
similar to that from the Weissenstein. 



to Bern. BIBNNE. I. Route 2. 11 

We traverse pleasant grassy dales , pass Sorvilier, Malleray- 
Bevilard, and Reconvilier, and reach — 

427 2 M. Tavannes, Ger. Dachsfelden (2500' ; Hotel de la Oare 
poor ; Restaur, and R. at the Brasserie"), a large village at the source 
of the Birs (branch-line in 35 min. to Tramelan). The train as- 
cends slightly, and passes by means of a tunnel (1500 yds.) under 
the Pierre Pertuis, a natural opening in the rock through which the 
high-road passes. It then descends the slope to the right, describes 
a sharp curve betweenSombeval and Corgemont, and crosses the Suze, 
or Schiiss. 

47 M. Sonceboz (2150'; Couronne; Cerf, well spoken of), the 
junction for La Chaux-de-Fonds (see p. 198). 

The train again crosses the Suze, and passes through a tunnel un- 
derthe S.W. spur of the Montozfji. 10). Thestreamis crossed several 
times in its beautiful wooded valley. 50'^ M. La Heutte; 53 M. 
Beuchenette (1940'; Inn, excellent trout). The line now suddenly 
turns towards the S., and enters the narrow passage which the Suze 
has forced through the last heights of the Jura range. Four tunnels 
between this point and Bienne. On the right beyond the first tunnel 
is a fall of the Suze, and on the hill is the ruined chateau of Rond- 
chdtel. Two more tunnels. Pleasant view of the green valley of 
Orvin (Ger. llfingen) to the right. Beyond another long tunnel the 
train crosses the deep and wild ravine of the Suze (Taubenloch, see 
below), by a lofty bridge, and quits the ravine. "We now obtain a 
striking view of the rich plains of Bienne, with the whole of the 
Alpine chain from the mountains of Unterwalden to Mont Blanc in 
the distance. "We then descend vine-clad slopes to — 

56 M. Bienne, Ger. Biel (1445'; *Couronne, R. from 2, D. 3, S. 
2!/ 2 fr. ; * Hotel de Bienne, near the station, R., L., & A. ^fa-^fai B. 
l 1 /^!" 1 -; *H6t. Suisse, R. 2l/2> B. 1 fr. ; Croix; Hot. de la Gare, near 
the station, well spoken of ; *Rail. Restaurant), an ancient and 
thriving town (18,000 inhab.). The Museum Schwab, founded by 
Col. Schwab and pre sented by him to the town, is an interesting 
collection of antiquities from the lake-villages, Celtic and Roman 
weapons, implements, coins, etc. (open on Sun. and Thurs., 2-4; 
at other times on application). The beautiful avenues enclosing 
the town stretch to the N. end of the Lake of Bienne, as far as 
(1 M.) Nidau , with its old chateau and sea-baths, near the efflux 
of the Zihl or Thiele (p. 194). 

Tramway from the station into the town, to Nidau, and to the N. to 
(20 min.) Rozingen, Fr. Boujean (Hirsch; Rossli). An attractive walk leads 
hence through the picturesque 'Taubenlochschlucht, watered by the copi- 
ous Schiiss, to the 0/2 hr.) hamlet of Friedliswart, Fr. Frinvillier (Restaur, 
des Gorges and Restaur, de la Truite , good trout), and thence past the 
ruin of Rondchdtel to ( 3 /4 nr.) the station of Reuchenette (see above"). 

A Wike-Rope Railway (station 10 min. to the N.W. of the railway 
station at Bienne, where an omnibus is waiting) ascends in 15 min. (1 fr., 
return l'/2 fr.) to the Kurhaus of "Macolin, Ger. Magglingen (2960'; R., L., 
& A. 4, D. 4, pens. 8-11 fr.), splendidly situated on the slopes of the Jura : 



12 /. Route 3. LIESTAL. From Bdle 

l l U hr. above Bienne, and noted for ita fine air. Large wooded grounds, 
and fine view of the Alps from the Sentis to Mont Blanc. English Church 
Service in summer. 

A very pleasant round of 3 hrs. is as follows: by wire-rope railway 
to Macolin, thence via. the (25min.) prettily situated village of Leubringen, 
Fr. Evilard (*Kurhaus ; Drei Tannen, well spoken of J, through magnificent 
pine-woods, or via, Orvin (p. 11) to Frinvillier and by the Taubenloch- 
schlueht to Bozingen (tramway to Bienne). — The ascent of the Chasseral 
(5280') takes about 4 hrs. from Macolin. From the hotel a good path crosses 
the hill to the S.W. to Lamboing, Diesse, and Nuds, at the N.E. foot of the 
mountain, whence a steep and stony ascent leads to the top (descent to 
St. Imier, see p. 198). — From Macolin to Twannberg (p. 194) , a pleasant 
walk of IV2 hr. 

From Bienne to Soleure, see p. 16 ; to Neuchdtel and Geneva, see R. 6S. 

The Railway from Bienne to Bern crosses the Zihl near 
(58V 2 M.) Briigg, and the Aare before (61 M.) Busswyl. 

63 M. Lyss (Hirsch ; Rail. Restaurant) is the junction of the lines 
to Pay erne on the S. (p. 208) and to Soleure on the N. (p. 16). — 64 V2 M. 
Suberg ; 68 M. Schiipfen; 71 M. Munchen-Buchsee (*H6t. Kaech; 
Krone ; Bar). On the right, the Bernese Alps from the Jungfrau to 
the Balmhorn become visible , but soon disappear. — 73 M. Zolli- 
kofen, a station on the Central Line (Bale-Herzogenbuchsee-Bern). 
Thence to (77 M.) Bern, see p. 17. 

3. From Bale to Bienne via Olten and Soleure. 

63 M. Railwai in 3-4 hrs. (fares 10 fr. 65, 7 fr. 45, 5 fr. 35 c). 

Bale, see p. 2. The train crosses the Birs. 3 M. Muttenz. 5 M. 
Pratteln, the junction for Zurich (p. 18). On the Rhine, 1^2 M- to 
the N.W. (branch-railway in 10 min.) are the well-equipped salt- 
baths of Schweizerhalle. 

The line leaves the valley of the Rhine , enters the Jura Mts. 
and follows the left bank of the Ergolz. Near (7t/ 2 M.) Nieder- 
Schbnthal, on a hill to the right, lies Frenkendorf (1120'; Wilder 
Mann ; Lowe), a pretty summer-resort. A good carriage-road leads 
from Nieder-Schonthal to (2V 4 M.) Bad Schauenburg (see below). 

9 M. Liestal (1033'; 4927 inh.; *Falke, with salt -baths and 
garden, pens, from 4 fr.; Schliissel; Engel ; Sonne), prettily situated 
on the Ergolz, is the seat of government of the half-canton of Basel- 
Land or Bale-Campagne. In the town-hall is a collection of coins 
and the cup of Charles the Bold, found in his tent after the battle 
of Nancy (1477). 

Bienenberg (Kurhaui, with salt-baths), l'/jM. to the N.W. of Liestal, 
is a pleasant summer-resort, and about l'/a M. beyond it is Bad Schauen- 
burg (1590 1 ) , below the ruin of the same name (1975 1 ; 'View). Road to 
Nieder-Schonthal, see above. 

To Waldisnbubg, 8V2 M., narrow-gauge railway in 1 hr., through the 
pretty Frenkenthal. 2'/2 M. Bad Bubendorf, with, mineral and salt baths. 
(The village with its ruined castle lies 1 M. to the right.) 4 M. Lampenberg; 
0V2 M. HSlstein, in a narrow part of the valley, with manufactories of 
silk ribbon. Passing Kiederdorf and Oberdorf, we reach (Si,.. M.) Walden- 
burg (1713'; LSwe; Schliittel), a little town with a ruined castle and a 
pretty church. A good road leads hence (diligence 4 times daily in 50 min.) 



to Bienne. OLTEN. I. Route 3. 13 

to (3 M.) Langenbruck ("Kurhaus, with its dependance Ochsen, pens. 5V2- 
8 fr. ; Pens. Bider, etc.), situated on the pass of the Obere Hauenstein 
(2355 1 ), a quiet and pleasant hill sanatorium. — A high-road leads from 
Langenbruck to the S.E. to Fridau and (5 M.) Egerkingen (p. 14); another 
to the S.W. to Holderbank, Balsthal, and through the Klus, a derile for- 
merly fortified, with the picturesque ruin of Falkenstein and the restored 
chateau of Bechburg, to (IOV2 M.) Oensingen (p. 14). 

11 M. Lausen. Near (13 M.) Sissach (1233'; Lowe), a thriv- 
ing village, we pass (r.) the small chateau and park of Ebenrain. 
Fine view from the Sissacher Fluh (2400'), 1 hr. to the N. 

From Sissach over the Schafmatt to Aarau (13V2 M.). Branch-line 
via Bockten in 15min. to (2Vz M.) Oelterkinden (1370'; "Rbssli), a manu- 
facturing village ; thence road through a picturesque valley past the 
Hanggiessen waterfall to (H/2 M.) Tecknau (1440'); (I1/2 M.) Wenslingen 
(I860 1 ) ; (I1/2 M.) Oltingen (1940' ; Ochs), with a mineral spring. The path 
ascending the (V2hr.) "Schafmatt (2515') diverges close to the 'Ochs', and 
is easily found, being provided with finger-posts. The summit commands 
an extensive panorama of the Jura and the Alps, which we enjoy until we 
reach a point overlooking the deep valley of Rohr. Turning to the left 
here, we reach the upper part of a meadow, at the foot of which (1/2 hr. 
from the top) lies a chalet and whey-cure establishment. From this point 
we enjoy a view of the environs of the Lake of Lucerne, the Rigi, Pi- 
latus, etc., framed by the mountains between which we stand. From the 
chalet to Aarau (p. 21) in l'/4 hr., past the Laurenzenbad (p. 21), situated 
in a side-valley to the left, and Erlisbach. 

To the S. of Sissach lies (7 M.; diligence twice daily in l>/4 hr. 
via Zunzgen, Tenniken, and Diegten) Eptingen or Ruch-Eptingen (1873'; 
Kurhaus, with saline and mineral baths; pens. 4-5 fr.), situated in a 
narrow valley at the base of the Hauenstein (footpath to Ldufelfingen, see 
below, 1 hr. ; to Langenbruck, see above, I 1 , 4 hr.). 

The train quits the Ergolzthal, turns to the S. into the narrow 
and picturesque Homburger Thai , and beyond (16 M.) Som- 
merau passes through two tunnels. 19^2 M. Laufelfingen (2010' ; 
Sonne), at the foot of the Hauenstein. 

On the summit of the Hauenstein, ascended in % hr. from stat. Laufel- 
fingen via, Reisen and Erlimoos (each of which has a Kurhaus), is situated 
the Trohburg (2770'; "ffStel & Pension, R. 2'/ 2 , B. l'/ 4 , pens. 6-7 fr.), 
commanding a beautiful view of the Alps, from the Sentis to Mont Blanc ; 
in the foreground the Wartburg (see below) and the Wiggerthal with the 
railway to Lucerne ; on the right rises Pilatus, on the left the Rigi. About 
10 min. from the inn are some scanty ruins of a castle destroyed by an 
earthquake. Descent by Trimbach in 1 hr. to Olten. 

The train now enters the Hauenstein Tunnel, 2970 yds. long, 
during the construction of which in 1857 sixty -three workmen 
were buried by a fall of earth. Beyond it we observe on a hill to 
the right the small chateau of Neu- Wartburg (p. 14), to the right 
of which, farther on, the Bernese Alps gradually become visible 
from the Wetterhorn to the Doldenhorn. The train descends by a 
long curve to the Aare, crosses it, and ascends on the right bank to — 

241/2 M. Olten. — "Hotel Suisse, at the station, R. 2, B. 1 fr. ; 
Hotel Wiss, moderate; Halbmond. — "Rail. Restaurant. 

Carriages generally changed here. Detention of '/4-*/2 h r - As we leave 
the waiting-rooms, the trains for Bale and Zurich are to the left, those to 
Lucerne and Bern to the right. Pocket-picking not uncommon here. 

Olten (1295'; 4936 inhab.), the second town in the canton of 
Soleure, prettily situated on the Aare, is the junction of the lines 



14 I. Route 3. SOLEURE. From Bah 

t» Aarau and Brugg (R. 7), to Aarburg and Lucerne (R. 6), to 
Bern (R. 4), and to Soleure and Neuchatel (see below). The Pariah 
Church contains an Ascension by Disteli, and the Capuchin Church 
a Madonna by Deschwanden. Extensive railway work-shops and 
large shoe-manufactories. 

To the S.E. of Olten, on an isolated hill on the right bank of the Aare, 
rises the Neu-Wartburg or Salischloss (2235'; "Restaurant), a small chateau 
with a fine view of the Alps from the Sentis to the Jungfrau. Good 
paths from Olten and from Aarburg to the top in 3 /t hr- 

About 4 , ,2 M. to the N.E. of Olten (diligence twice daily in summer 
in I1/4 hr.) are the sulphur-baths of Lostorf CA'tirhaus, moderate, pens. 
5 fr.), prettily situated at the foot of the Jura. On a cliff above O/4 hr.) 
rises the small chateau of Wartenfeh (2060'), with a fine view. 

Beyond Olten the train diverges to the right from the Bern and 
Lucerne line (p. 17), crosses the Aare, and traverses the plain 
watered by the Diinnern, at the base of the Jura. To the left the 
view of the Alps from the Glarnisch to the Altels is gradually un- 
folded. 26 M. Olten-Hammer; 27y 2 M. Wangen; 29 M. Hagen- 
dorf; 31 M. Egerkingen (Kreuz). 

Diligence twice daily in 45 min. to Friedau (2300'; 'Xurliaus, pens. 
5'/2-6 fr.), situated on the slope of the Jura, and well fitted up. Beautiful 
view of the Alps from Sentis to Mont Blanc. Slnidy grounds and extensive 
wood-walks. The road also leads to Langenbruck, 3 M. farther (see p. 13; 
diligence in summer daily). 

32 M. Oberbuchsiten ; 36 M. Oensingen (diligence twice daily 
in l 3 /,jhr. to Langenbruck, p. 13); 37 M. Niederbipp (to the right 
of which is Oberbipp , with a handsome modern chateau). At 
( 41 M.) Wangen the train crosses the Aare. Beyond Deitingen and 
J.uterbach we obtain a view of Soleure with the minster of St. Ours ; 
to the right are the Rothi and the Kurhaus on the "Weissenstein 
(p. 15). The train crosses the Orosse Emme, not far from its con- 
fluence with the Aare. — 47 M. Neu- Solo (hum. 

Soleure. — Soleure has two Railway Stations : Neu-Solothum, on 
the right bank of the Aare, for the lines to Olten, Herzogenbuchsee, 
Burgdorf, Lyss, and Bienne, and All-Solothurn, on the left bank, to the 
W. of the town, for the line to Bieime. 

Hotels. 'Krone, K., L., & A. 3, B. I1/4, D. 3 fr. ; 'Stokch; Hirsch; 
Thurm; Scuwan, well spoken of. 

Soleure, or Solothurn (14-25'; 8462 inhab.), on the Aare, a quiet 
place, the capital of Canton Soleure, was incorporated with the 
Confederation in 1481, and claims to be the oldest town on this side 
of the Alps next to Treves. ('In Celtis nihil est Salodoro antiquius, 
unis exceptis Treviris, quarum ego dicta soror\ is the inscription 
on the clock-tower.) It was the Roman Salodurwn, once a flourishing 
settlement. The old ramparts have been almost entirely removed. 

The Cathedbat, of St. Ouhs, a cathedral of the Bishopric of Bale 
(p. 4), was built in 1702-73 on the site of an edifice of 1050, in the 
form of a cross, surmounted with a dome and two half-domes. A 
flight of 36 steps leads to the facade. One of tin- adjoining foun- 
tains is adorned with a statue of Moses striking the rock, the other 
with a figure of Gideon wringing the dew from the fleece. The ten 



to Bienne. . SOLEURE. I. Route 3. 15 

large altarpieces, dating from the latter half of the 18th cent., are 
unimportant. The treasury, in the sacristy, contains some good 
artistic work in metal and textile fabrics, chiefly of the 16-18th 
centuries. 

The *AasENAi, not far from the cathedral, contains the arms 
of the cantonal militia, and on the second floor a collection of an- 
cient annour and weapons. Among the curiosities is a mitrailleuse 
of the 15th century. A large plastic group close to the entrance 
represents the reconciliation of the Confederates effected at the 
Diet of Stans in 1481 by Nicholas von der Flue (p. 123), from a 
drawing by Disteli. 

The oldest building in Soleure is the Clock Toweb, recently 
restored, which is said to have been erected in the 4th century B.C., 
but is really an early Burgundian building of the 5th or 6th cent. 
A.D. The figures and mechanism of the clock are similar to those 
at Bern (p. 136). 

The Natural History Cabinet, in the suburb on the right bank of 
the Aare, contains valuable collections of zoology and palaeontology. 
In the Cantonal School are a number of Roman and Mediceval An- 
tiquities and the Cantonal Library. The Town Library contains 
about 40,000 vols, and 200 incunabula, besides coins and medals. 
The Municipal Picture Gallery possesses a *Virgin and Child, with 
SS. Ours and Martin of Tours, one of the chief works of Holbein 
the Younger (1522), much restored. 

The "Weissenstein (4220'), 3 hours' walk or drive to the N. of So- 
leure, is deservedly a very favourite point of view. It is reached either 
by the carriage - road via Langendorf and Oberdorf (two -horse carr. in 
2'/2 hrs., up 20, down 10, there and back 25 fr. and fee), or (preferable) 
by the footpath (guide or porter 4-5 fr.) ascending the Verenathal. Taking 
the latter, we pass the cathedral of St. Ours, and through the handsome 
Bale gate, and then bear to the left towards the Villa Cartier with its 
two towers , where we turn to the right. Farther on we enter the 
avenue to the left, at the end of which we turn to the right towards the 
church of St. Nicholas. Before reaching the church our route passes the 
Restaurant Wengistein and turns to the left into the *St. Verenathal 
(1 M. from Soleure) , a narrow, cool, and shady ra vine, l /t M. in length. 
The path to the left, at the beginning of the gorge, leads to the Wengistein 
(see below). At the other end of the valley are quarries of Portland lime- 
stone, where interesting fossils are found. The blocks of granite on the 
neighbouring slopes are believed by geologists to have been deposited by 
ancient Alpine glaciers. This gorge is now converted into a promenade. 

At the N. end of the ravine is the Hermitage of St. Verena. On 
the right are the hermit's dwelling and a chapel; on the left is a rock- 
hewn chapel, reached by a broad flight of steps, and containing a repre- 
sentation of the holy sepulchre with life-size figures. We may now ascend 
by the chapel to the crosses, pass near the large quarries (where 'Gletscher- 
schliffe', or rocks worn by the action of the glaciers were recently discov- 
ered), and traverse the wood to the Wengistein, the view from which is 
similar to that from the Weissenstein, though on a smallar scale. A huge 
granite boulder here bears a Latin inscription recording two memorable 
events in the history of Soleure. 

From the restaurant beyond the hermitage we take to the right, in 
the direction of the Weissenstein ; at (10 min.) the village of Widlisbach 
we turn to the left and cross the hill to (12 min.) the hamlet of Fallem 
(1827'), at the foot of the Weissenstein. Above it we enter the wood to 



16 I. Route 3. WEISSENSTEIN. 

the left by a finger-post, ascend gradually, and then in steep zigzags to 
the (40 min.) first bench, above which there are several others. The path 
soon quits the wood and ascends an abrupt rocky gully, partly by means of 
steps. Farther up, the ascent is through wood and more gradual. In 
40 min. we regain the road (to the left) above the Netselboden Alp (3447'), 
and following it, reach in 40 min. more the "Kurhaus on the Vordere 
Weissenslein (4220'; B., L., & A. 3-4, B. V/ t , D. 31/2, S. 2'/2, pension 8 10 fr.; 
telephone to Soleure), a sanatorium surrounded by woods and pastures, and 
much resorted to in summer (English Church service). The footpath, 
diverging to the right at the end of the wide curve, 8 min. from the Nessel- 
boden Alp, and then ascending abruptly to the left at the post on the 
top, is a short-cut. 

The 'View is less picturesque , but more extensive than that from 
the Eigi ; and no spot commands a better view of the whole Alpine 
chain from the Tyrol to Mont Blanc. To the E. are distinguished the 
Sentis, the Glarnisch, with the Rigi in the foreground, the Todi between 
the Eigi and Pilatus, the lofty saddle of Titlis, and the Sustenhorn; 
beyond Soleure are the Wetterhorn and Schreckhorn, the Finsteraarhorn, 
Eiger, Monch, Jungf rau, Blumlisalp, and Doldeuhorn ; then the Balmhorn, 
Altels, Wildstrnbel, Wildhorn, Diablerets, and to the S. Mont Blanc. 
To the S.W. glitter the lakes of Bienne, Morat, and Heuchatel; the Aare 
winds to the S. through the fertile plains, and the Grosse Emme flows into 
it at the foot of the mountain. 

Pleasant walk to the W. through the wood to the (10 min.) Kdnzeli (4093'). 
— The Rbthi (4590'), V« nr - to the E. of the hotel, commands an extensive 
view to the N. and E. of the Black Forest and Vosges, which are hid- 
den from the Weissenstein, and of the picturesque mountains and 
valleys of the Jura. — Towards the W. the view is concealed by the 
"Hasenmatt (4745'), l 3 ,U hr. from the hotel , whence an uninterrupted 
panorama may be enjoyed. The path (white marks) to it leads across the 
pastures to the W. to (25 min.) the Hintere Weissenslein (4027' ; Inn). A 
pleasanter route leads by the shady footpath, which enters the woods to the 
right above the pastures, but which must be quitted as soon as it begins 
to ascend more steeply. Shortly before reaching the Hintere Weissenstein 
we descend a little to the left and cross the ridge to (20 min.) the end 
of the meadows ; then descend for •/« hr. in the Eesselwald, and ascend across 
pastures to (20 min.) the chalet of Alth'isU (4375'; simple Kfmts.), on the 
saddle, with a good spring. An easy path leads hence to the summit in 
20 min. (the path, diverging to the left, 10 min. before the chalet, is 
shorter but steeper). — We may descend from the Hasenmatt or the chalet 
on the S. side, pass Lammiswyl, and regain Soleure, or the nearer station 
of Selzach (see below). Those returning from the Kurhausto Soleure fol- 
low the road from Fallern (see above) to 0/2 M.) a sign-post with four 
arms, whence a path between pine-woods and large quarries brings them 
in '/2 hr. to the X.W. gate of Soleure. Carriages may also be directed to 
return by a route affording an opportunity of visiting the St. Verena gorge. 

From Soleure to Herzogenbuchsee, see p. 17. 

Fbom Soleuke to Burgdokp (13 M.) by the Emmenthal railway in 
40-50 min. The principal station is (7 M.) Ulzensdorf, the largest village 
in the lower Emmenthal. Burgdorf, see p. 17. 

Fbom Soleure to Ltss (15 m.) by railway, skirting the right bank of 
the Aare, in l-lj/ihour. About halfway is Bilren (Krone), a small town 
with an old chateau. Lyss, see p. 12. 

The Bienne line crosses the Aare. 48 M. Alt-Solnthurn (p. 14); 
then Selzach, Grenchen or Granges (Lowe), with watch-manufactor- 
ies, and Pieterlen. 

63 M. Bienne, see p. 11. 



17 
4. From Bile to Bern via Herzogenbuehsee. 

66 M. Railway in 3y 4 -4y 4 hrs. (fares 11 fr. 50, 8 fr. 5, 5 fr. 75 c). 

To (2472 M.) 0«en, see pp. 12, 13. The line skirts the light 
bank of the Aare ; to the left, the chateau of Neu- Wartburg (p. 14). 

27 M. Aarburg (1285' ; *Krone ; Bar), a thriving little town 
(2079 inhab.), picturesquely situated on the Aare (junction for Lu- 
cerne, p. 20). The old castle on a hill, built in 1660, is now a factory. 
— Stations Rothrist ; Murgenthal, where the Murg is crossed ; Bogg- 
wyl ; Langenthal (*Lowe), a thriving village with a busy timber- 
trade (branch-line in 40 min. to Huttwil); Biitzberg. 

41i/ 2 M. Herzogenbuehsee (1500' ; 2316 inhab. ; *Sonne ; Hot. 
de la Qare) is a considerable place, with a loftily situated church. 

To Soledee (9 Jl.) railway in 40 min. Stations Inhwyl, Subigen, and 
Derendingen, beyond which we cross the Orosse Emrne to Neu-Solothum(-p. 14). 

Near (45*^ M.) Biedwyl we enter a grassy valley with wooded 
slopes. Beyond (47 M.) Wynigen a long tunnel (1 min.). The train 
now crosses the Orosse Emme to — 

52 M. Burgdorf, Fr. Berthoud (1863' ; Hot. Ouggisberg, Hot. 
de la Qare, both at the station ; Maison de Ville ; Ours), a busy town 
(6876 inhab.), picturesquely situated. The substantially built houses 
are flanked with 'Lauben', or arcades, as at Bern. The public 
buildings, the hospital, schools, orphanage, and public walks testify 
to the wealth and taste of the community. In the chateau of 
Burgdorf, in 1798, Pestalozzi established his famous school, which 
in 1804 he removed to Yverdon (p. 202). Beautiful views from the 
church and chateau; finer from the Lueg (2885'), 2 hrs. to the E. 

Fbom Burgdobf to Langnatj, 14 M., railway in 3 /4-l hr. The line 
ascends the fertile Emmenthal. Stat. Oberburg and Hasle-Ruegsau. From 
Riiegsau, l>/2 M. to the N.E. of the railway, the Bachisberg (2768'; line 
view of the Alps and the Jura) may be ascended in >/2 hr. — 6 M. 
Liitzelfluh-Ooldbach. Liitzelfluh was the home of the pastor Albert Bitzius 
(d. 1854), a well-known popular author under the name of Jeremias Gott- 
helf. — P/jM. Ramsey-Sumiswald (the latter lying 3 M. to the N.); 9 M. 
Zollbriick; 14 M. Langnau (p. 130). 

From Burgdorf to Soleure, see p. 16. 

54 1 / 2 M. Lyssach. Beyond (56 M.) Hindelbank a monument, to 
the left of the railway, commemorates the battle between the Bern- 
ese and the French in the Grauholz, March 15th, 1798. — 59 M. 
Schoribuhl. Beyond (61 ^M.) Zollikofen (junction for Bienne, p. 12), 
the train crosses the iron Worblaufen Bridge (below, to the right, 
the handsome bridge of Tiefenau over the Aare) and then ascends 
through a cutting to the Wyler Feld, whence, to the left, we obtain 
a magnificent view of the Bernese Alps. To the right is the suburb 
Lorraine, beyond which we cross the Aare and enter the station of 
Bern. The ^Bridge, 200 yds. long and 142' high, has a roadway 
for ordinary traffic below the railway. — 66 M. Bern, see p. 134. 



Baedekeb, Switzerland. 15th Edition. 



18 

5. From Bale to Zurich. 

56 M. IU11.WAY in 2V4-3'/2 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 40, 6 fr. 60, 4 fr. 75 c). 

To (5 M.) Pratteln, see p. 12. Near (7V2 M.) Augst, pictur- 
esquely situated, -we cross the Ergolz and approach the Rhine. On 
the left is Kaiser-Augst, with salt-works and an old church; opposite, 
on the left bank of the Ergolz is the hamlet of Basel-Augst (p. 3). 

IOV2 M. Bheinfelden. — Hotels. "Gr. Hdtel det Salines, 5 min. 
above the town, pens, with R. 8-12 fr.; "Bdtel Dielechy zur Krone, with 
terrace on the Rhine ; "Dreikbnig, with shady garden , pens. 5 fr. ; Zum 
Schiitzin; Schiff, all with salt-baths; 'Bellevue, on the right bank of the 
Rhine; beer at the SaVmeu. — English Church Service in summer. 

Rheinfelden (873 '), an old town with 2400 iuhab., once strongly 
fortified, with walls, and towers still partly preserved , was one of 
the outposts of the Holy Roman Empire. After repeated sieges it 
was razed to the ground by the French in 1744. Since 1801 it has 
belonged to Switzerland. The foaming river here dashes over the 
rocks, forming the Hollenhaken rapids. Near the town are extensive 
salt-works on the Rhine. 

We quit the Rhine, which here describes a bend to the N., pass 
(13 M.) Mohlin and (17 M.J Mumpf (Soolbad zur Sonne; Giintert), 
and then return to the river for a short distance. I8Y2 M. Stein 
(990'; *L6we), connected by a covered bridge with Sachingen (p. 23). 

Fkom Stein to Koblenz, 16 51., railway in 48 min. (2 fr. 80, 2 fr., 
1 fr. 40 c). The line skirts the left bank of the Rhine ; stations Sisseln, 
Laufenburg (p. 23), Sulz, Etzgtn, Schwaderloch , Leibstatt, Felsenau; then 
across the Aare to Koblenz (p. 22). 

We quit the Rhine, and at (20 1 /'<2 M.) Eiken enter the fertile 
Sisseln-Thal. 23 M. Frick (1120'; Adler; Engel), a considerable 
village. The train ascends in a long curve to (26 M.) Hornussen 
(1275'). 28V 2 M. Effingen (1425'), the highest point on the line. 
Then a tunnel, 2697 yds. long (4 min.), under the Bdtzberg (1945'), 
the Mons Vocetius of the Romans. 31 M. Bbtzenegg is the station 
for the village of Schinznach (p. 22). The train gradually descends, 
affording a magnificent view of the valley of the Aare to the right, 
and, in clear weather, of the St. Gall, Glarus, and Schwyz Alps, 
and crosses the Aare by a bridge 259 yds. long and 104' high. 

36 M. Brugg(109G'; pop. 1572; *RothesHaus; *Rossli; Hot. 
Bahnhof; Rail. Restaurant), an antiquated little town, the junction 
for Aarau and Waldshut (R. 7), is best surveyed from the bridge 
over the Aare , here hemmed in by rocks. The 'Schwarze Thurtn', 
by the bridge, dates from the later Roman Empire; the upper part 
was rebuilt in the 15th century. 

The ancient Abbey of Konigafelden (3/ 4 jl. to the S.E. of Brugg), for- 
merly a convent of Minorites, was founded in 1310 by the Empress Eliza- 
beth and her daughter, Queen Agnes of Hungary, on the spot where 
Albert of Austria, husband of the former, had been murdered two years 
before (1308) by John of Swabia and his accomplices. It was secularised in 
1528; the building was converted into an hospital, and in 1872 into a lunatic 
asylum. Of the old buildings there now remain the 8. part only, the church, 
and the dwelling of Queen Agnes, which last now contains a collection of 
antiquities. The stained-glass Windows in the choir, of the 14th cent. op« 



BADEN. I. Route 5. 19 

posite the door, portray the history of Agnes, etc. Part of the choir, with 
the tomb of Duke Leopold (p. 20), is now a cart-shed. On the walls are 
portraits of the chief knights who fell at Sempach (painted soon after the 
battle, but now mnch damaged). 

On the tongue of land formed by the Reuss and the Aare once stood 
the considerable Helvetian town of Vindonissa, which in the early centu- 
ries of the Christian era was the headquarters of a Roman legion with its 
Rhsetian cohorts, as is proved by inscriptions. The position of the amphi- 
theatre is recognisable; and the well of the Abbey of Konigsfelden is fed 
by a subterranean Roman conduit. The town was destroyed in the 5th 
cent., and there is now no trace of its extensive edifices; but the name 
still survives in that of the village of Windisch, 1 II. to the E. of Brugg. 

From Brugg to Wohlen, 11 M., railway in 40 minutes. — 3 M. Birr- 
feld; 5V« M. Othmarsingen (junction for Wettingen and Aarau, p. 22); 
71/2 M. ffendschikon. (p. 21); 8V2 M. Dottikon-Dintikon (p. 21); 11 M. Woh- 
Un-Villmergen. (To Rothkreuz, see p. 22.) 

"We cross the Reuss near its union with the Aare, and beyond 
(38 M.) Turgi (p. 22; Buffet), reach the Limmat and follow its left 
bank. The steep slopes are clad with vines. 

42 M. Baden (1257'; pop. 3887; * Hotel Bdhnhof ; *Waage, D. 
incl. wine 2y 2 fr-J was much visited even in Roman times for the 
sake of its mineral springs (Aquae Helvetiae). In the reign of Nero, 
according to Tacitus (Hist. i. 67), it had all the appearance of a 
town ('in modum municipii exstructus locus, amoeno salubrium 
aquarum usu frequens 1 ). In the middle ages Baden was a fortress, 
and down to the beginning of the 15th cent, was often the residence 
of the counts of Hapsburg. The extensive ruins of the fortress 
Stein zu Baden (1505'), destroyed in 1415 and again in 1712, rise 
above the town (1/4 hr. from the station) ; pretty view from the top 
and the adjacent Cafe Belvedere. 

The hot mineral springs (98°-126° Fahr.) lie in the narrow val- 
ley of the Limmat (1190'), 5min. to the N. of the station, l / 2 M. 
from the town. The 'Small Baths' (Adler ; Engel ; Hirsch ; Rebstock; 
Schwan), on the right bank of the Limmat, are chiefly frequented 
by the neighbouring peasantry ; the ' Oreat Baths' 1 (*Neue Kuranstalt 
Baden, or Grand Hdtel, pens. 8-12 fr. ; Schiff ; *Verenahof, 8fr. ; 
*Blume; Schweizerhof ; Freihof; *Limmathof ; Ochs; Bar) lie on the 
left bank. The Bahnhof-Str. leads from the station to the handsome 
Kursaal , with its pleasant grounds (*Kestaurant ; music several 
times daily) and to the Kuranstalt (see above). Good view from the 
lower Limmat bridge (1175'); opposite, on the right bank, is the 
Cafe Brunner, with a garden. From the upper bridge a footpath 
leads to the left to (^ M.) the Restaurant Schartenfels, which com- 
mands a fine view. 

From Baden to Aarau, see p. 22; station on the S.W. side of the up- 
per town, 1 M. from the baths. 

"We pass through a short tunnel under the Stein zu Baden (see 
above), and cross the Limmat to (43 M.) Wettingen. The village lies 
on the left, at the foot of the vine-clad Lagerngebirge (2830'); on 
the right, surrounded by the Limmat, are the extensive buildings 
and gardens of the former Cistercian Abbey of Wettingen, now a 

2* 



20 /. Route 6. SEMPACH. 

seminary for teachers. The church contains a sarcophagus in which 
the remains of the Emp. Albert (see p. 18) reposed for 15 months 
before their removal to Speyer. Stained -glass windows of the 
16th and 17th cent., carved stalls of the 17th. 

Fbom Wettingen to Oerlikon, 13'/2 M., railway in l'/4 hr. — 2 l /2 M. 
Wurenlos; i l fe M. Otelfingen-Daenikon (branch-line by Bucks and Nitder- 
glait to Biilach, p. 47); 6 M. Buchs-Daellikon ; 8'/a M. Regensdorf-Watt , a 
little to the E. of which is the small Katzensee (Inn) ; 10'/2 M. Affol- 
tern; 121/2 M. Seebach; 13 l /2 M. Oerlikon (p. 46). 

The train again crosses the deep bed of the Limmat and follows 
its left bank to Zurich. 46 M. Killwangen. — 49 M. Dietikon(1285'; 
Lowe). It was here that Masstfna effected his famous passage of 
the Limmat, 24th Sept., 1799, after which he repulsed the Russians 
and took Zurich. — 51 M. Schlieren; 53y 2 M. Altstetten (p. 70). 
To the right stretches the long ridge of the Uetli with its inn (p. 38). 
We now cross the Sihl and enter the station of — 

56 M. Zurich, see p. 32. 

6. From Bale to Lucerne. 

59 M. Railwat in 2V2-4'/2 hrs. (fares 10 fr. 25, 7 fr. 15, 5 fr. 10 c). 

To (27 M.) Aarburg, the junction for Bern (R. 4), see p. 17. 
The Lucerne line traverses the broad grassy Wiggerthal. 

30 M. Zofingen (1430' ; pop. 4496 ; Rbssli; Ochs), a busy little 
town. The library in the Rathhaus contains a collection of coins, 
autographs of Swiss reformers , and the album of the society of 
Swiss artists, founded in the year 1806, which formerly met at Zo- 
fingen annually. On the branches of the fine old lime-trees near 
the Schutzenhaus two 'ball-rooms' have been constructed. In the 
Bleichegut, near the town, are the remains of a Roman bath. 

From Zofingen to Suhr, railway in 36 minutes. Stations Safenwyl, 
Kolliken, Enlfelden, well-to-do villages , and (lO'/a M.) Suhr, the junction 
for Aarau and Baden (p. 22). 

33 M. Reiden, an old lodge of the knights of Malta, now a par- 
sonage. 35 M. Dagmersellen ; 37 M. Nebikon (diligence daily in 
3 hrs., via Willisau, to Wohlhausen in the Entlebuch, p. 129). To 
the right appear the Bernese Alps; in the centre the Jungfrau, 
with the Monch and Eiger to the left of it and the Altels to the 
right. Beyond (39'/2 M.) Wauwyl the little Mauensee, with its 
island and castle, lies on the right. 

431/2 M. Sursee (1690'; pop. 2135; Sonne; Hirsch), an old 
town, over whose gates the double eagle of Hapsburg is still 
enthroned. The Town Hall recalls the Burgundian style. 

Near (46 M.) Nottwyl we approach the Lake of Sempach (1663'), 
5 M. long, l'/z M. broad, and abounding in fish. On a hill to the 
right rises Schlosa Wartensee. 

49V2 M - Sempach. The small town (pop. 1097; Kreuz; Adler) 
lies IV2 M. to the N., on the S.E. bank of the lake. Near Sempach 
Duke Leopold of Austria was signally defeated on 9th July, 1386, by 



AARAU. /. Route 7. 21 

the Swiss Confederates, owing, according to the story, to the noble 
self-sacrifice of Arnold von "Winkelried. The duke himself and 263 of 
his knights were slain. A column surmounted by a lion was erected 
beside the church in 1886 on the 500th anniversary of the victory 

A Chapel (2064'), l'/2 M. to the N.E. of Sempach, marks the spot where 
Leopold fell. His uncle, Duke Leopold, had been defeated by the Swiss 71 
years before at Morgarten (p. 72). The anniversary is still kept. 

The train intersects plantations of firs. On the right appear the 
precipitous cliffs and peaks of Pilatus ; on the left the long crest of 
the Eigi; between these tower the snowy Alps (see p. 75); the 
isolated mountain adjacent to Pilatus, rising above the lake, is the 
Titlis. 53 M. Rothenburg ; 56 M. Emmenbriicke (Hotel Emmen- 
briicke ; Restaurant Seethal) , the junction of the 'Seethal' line to 
Lenzburg (p. 131). The line crosses the Emme , a little above 
its junction with the Reuss, and follows the latter, being joined 
on the left by the Zurich and Lucerne line (p. 70), and on the 
right by the Bern and Lucerne line (p. 129). Lastly we pass 
through a tunnel under the Outsell (p. 77). 

59 M. Lucerne, see p. 73. 

7. From Olten to Waldshut via Aarau and Brugg. 

32>/ 2 M. Railway in 2 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 60, 4 fr., 3 fr. 85 c). 

Olten, see p. 13. The train runs near the Aare as far as Brugg. 
To the left rise the picturesque Jura Mts. 

4 M. Danikon ; b 1 /^ M. Schonenwerth ; on the opposite bank of 
the Aare is Schlosa Oosgen , with a ruined tower. A tunnel now 
carries us under the loftily situated town of — 

8i/ 2 M. Aarau (1263'; pop. 6809; *Rossli; *Ochs; *Lowe; 
* Wilder Mann), a manufacturing place, the capital of Canton Aargau, 
on the Aare (which is crossed by a suspension-bridge, constructed 
in 1850), and at the foot of the Jura, the slopes of which at places 
are planted with the vine. The Oross-Rathsgebaude contains fine 
stained ' glass (from the Abbey of Muri, 16th cent.) and the Can- 
tonal Library (60,000 vols.). The Geographical and Commercial 
Society of Central Switzerland has here founded an interesting 
*Ethnographical Industrial Museum. A house in the Rathhaus- 
Platz (No. 882) contains interesting antiquities from Vindonissa 
(p. 19). The historian Heinrich Zschokke (d. 1848) once lived 
here; his house, the ' Blumenhalde' , is passed on the pleasant 
walk across the suspension-bridge to the (^4 nr *Alpenzeiger on 
the Hungerberg (Restaurant, with fine view, pens. 4 fr.). 

Above the town, to the N., rises the Wasserjluh (2850 1 ), and to the 
N.E. the Oiselafluh (2540'), over which a path, with a view of the lakes of 
Hallwyl and Baldegg, leads to the Baths of Schinzuach. — Pleasant road 
from Aarau by Erlisbach (p. 13) to the (4 M.) "Laurenzenbad, prettily situat- 
ed in the Jura. — About 6 M. to the W. of Aarau are the sulphur-baths 
of Lottorf (p. 14), the road to which passes Erlisbach and Sltlsslingen. 
— From Aarau to Sissach over the Schafmatt, see p. 13. 

From Aarau to Rothkkeuz, 29'/z M., railway in l ] /2-2 hrs. — 4 M. 
Ruppersweil (see p. 22) ; 6 M. Lenzburg (p. 132) ; 8 M. Hendschikon ; 10 M. Dotti- 



22 I. Route 7. SCHINZNACH. 

kon-DMikon; 12'/2 M. Wohlen-Villmergen, two considerable villages (junc- 
tion for Brugg and Bale, p. 19). Branch-line hence to the E. to (6 M.) 
Bremgarten (Drei Konige; Kreuz), a small town on the Reuss, with a 
chateau. — Then (16 M.) Bosuryl-Biinzen and the (18 SI.) charmingly situated 
Muri (159C; "Lowe, with salt and mineral baths ; Adler). with a former 
Benedictine Abbey burned down in 1889, but to be rebuilt. Near the 
town is the picturesque wooded Miihltobel with several waterfalls. On a 
hill, l»/2 hr. to the S.E., is "Schloss Horben (2625'; pension from 4 fr.), 
with extensive wood-walks and a beautiful view. — 20'/2 M. Benzemchwyl; 
22>/2 M. Miihlau, on the Kcuss; 25 M. Sins; 27 M. Oberriiti. We then cross 
the Reuss to (29i/ 2 II.) Ruthkreuz (pp. 72, 100). 

From Aaeau to Baden, 17'/2 M., railway in 1 hr. 20 min. — 3 M. 
<S«7i; - (branch-line to Zofinyen, p. 20); 5'/2 M. Hunzenschwyl (on a hill to 
the right the Slaufberg). 7',2 M. Lenzburg (p. 132; 'Seethalbahn' to 
Lucerne , see R. 39), where the Aa is crossed. IOV2 M. Othmarsingen, 
junction for Brugg and Wohlen (p. 19). Near (11 M.) Magenwyl, on a 
spur of the Keslenberg, to the left, rises Schloss Braunegg. The train 
crosses the Reuss. 13>/2 M. Mellingen; 15'/2 M. Dattwyl; 17V2 M. Baden 
(the station lies to the S.W. of the upper town, see p. 18). 

On the left, beyond the Aare, at the foot of the Giselafluh, lies 
Biberstein, with an old castle. 13 M. Buppersweil ; to the right the 
Staufberg and the chateau of Lenzburg (p. 132). — 15 M. Wildegg, 
with a castle of that name, on the foot of the Wiilpelsberg, has mineral 
springs containing iodine and bromine, the water of which is used 
for exportation only. On a hill beyond the Aare rises Schloss Wilden- 
stein. — 17y 2 M. Stat. Schinznach lies 1/2 M. from Bad Schinznach 
(1203'), on the right bank of the Aare , with sulphur-baths , fre- 
quented by French visitors (physician Dr. Amsler ; R. in the News 
Bad from 4, board 8, bath 2 fr. ; music i/ 2 fr. per day; in the Altes 
Bad, more frequented by Swiss visitors, about half as much). 

The baths lie at the foot of the Wiilpelsberg (1686'), on the top of 
which (V2 hr.) are the ruins of the Habsburg, the cradle of the imperial 
family of Austria, erected by Count Radbod von Altenburg about 1020. 
The tower, with walls 8' thick, is the only part now standing. The ad- 
joining house is occupied by a farmer. The view embraces the entire 
dominions of the ancient counts of Hapsburg, and the valleys of the Aare, 
Reuss, and Limmat, bounded on the S. by the Alps. — The village of 
Schinznach lies about 2'/2 M. to the S.W., on the left bank of the Aare. 
The nearest station is Butzenegg (p. 18). 

1972 M. Brugg, and thence to (22 M.) Turgi, see pp. 18, 19. 
The Waldshut train crosses the Limmat near its influx into the 
Aare, passes stat. Sigyenthal, and traverses the broad valley of the 
Aare, which it approaches near (28 M.) Dottingen-KUngnau. It then 
describes a wide curve, passes through a tunnel, and crosses the 
Rhine near (3072 M Koblenz, above the mouth of the Aare. 

321/2 M. Waldshut, see p. 23. 

8. From Bale to Schaffhausen and Constance. 

89 M. Baden Railway in 5 hrs. (to Schaffhausen 9fr. 50, 6fr. 30, 4fr. 
5c. ; to Constance 14 fr. 50, 9 fr. 65, 6 fr. 20c). Neuhausen (p. 23) is the 
station for the Falls of the Rhine (R. 9). Views to the right. — Steamer 
from Schaffhausen to Constance in 31/2-4 hrs. (descending in 3 hrs.), pleas- 
ant if time and weather permit (see y. 25; fares 4 fr., 1 fr. 95 c.). 

Bale (Baden station), see p. 2. We traverse a fertile plain 



SCHAFFHAUSEN. I. Route 8. 23 

between the S. spurs of the Black Forest and the Rhine. Stations 
Grenzach, Wyhlen (Hotel Bilmaier), Herthen. At (10 M.) Bei 
Rheinfelden (*Bellevue), opposite Rheinfelden (p. 18), the line ap- 
proaches the Rhine, which here dashes over rocks. The left bank is 
precipitous and wooded. — 12 M. Beuggen; to the right are a large 
reformatory and a seminary (p. 8), formerly a Teutonic lodge. 15 M. 
Niederschworstadt. To the left of (17M.) Brennet opens the * Wehra- 
thal (see Baedeker's Rhine). 

20 M. Sackingen (957'; Soolbad or Lowe; Schiitze~), a consider- 
able town, has a large abbey-church with two towers. The castle 
on the Rhine, which figures in Scheffel's poem 'Der Trompeter von 
Sackingen', is now the property of Hr. Balli. Pretty grounds. 

24 M. Murg (Zum Murgthal), where we cross the Murg. Op- 
posite (25Y2 M.) Laufenburg (*Post) is the Swiss town of Laufen- 
burg (980'; Rheinsoolbad ; Adler), very picturesquely placed on 
the left bank, with its lofty church, ruined castle, and old watch- 
towers (railway-station, see p. 18). The Rhine here forms impetuous 
rapids called the 'Lauferi . 

A long tunnel; then, beyond (29 M.) Albert-Hauenstein, a lofty 
viaduct. At intervals we approach the river. Near (30 M.) Albbruck 
the Alb is crossed. 32 M. Dogern. 

35 M. Waldshut (1122'; Hot. Schatzle, at the station; *H6tel 
Blume; Rebstock, in the town), the largest of these small towns 
on the Rhine, lies high above the river. — Railway to Turgi (for 
Zurich), see p. 22; to Winterthur, see p. 46. 

Beyond Waldshut a tunnel; to the right, occasional glimpses of 
the Alps. Before (38 M.) Thiengen (Krone) we cross the Schliicht, 
and at (40^2 M.) Oberlauehringen the Wutach. To the right, on a 
wooded height, is the ruin of Kussenberg. Stations Griessen, Erzin- 
gen, Wilchingen-Hallau, Neunkirch, Beringen, and (57Y2 M.) Neu- 
hausen, the station for the Falls of the Rhine (p. 26). 

59 M. Schaffhausen. — "Post, in the Herrenacker, 3 min. from the 
station; "Hot. Mtjllek, K.. from 2, B. lV4fr., Kheinischer Hop, Riese, all 
three at the station; *Schwanen; 'Tanne, plain; "Schiff, on the Rhine; 
Krone, unpretending. — Restaurant Rebmann, at the station ; Rail. Restau- 
rant. — Baths in the Rhine, at the upper end of the town, 6-1 and 5-8, for 
ladies 2-5. 

Schaffhausen (1415'; pop. 12,400), the capital of the canton of 
that name, still retains some of the features of a Swabian town of 
the empire. It presents a most picturesque appearance when seen 
from the village of Feuerthalen, on the left bank of the Rhine, or 
from the villa Charlottenfels (1385') on the right bank. Hr. Moser 
(d. 1871), the late proprietor of the villa, originated the imposing 
Waterworks in the Rhine (outside the Miihlenthor), by means of 
which the factories of the town are supplied with water-power. 

The Cathedbax, once an abbey-church, an early-Romanesque 
basilica, was erected in 1052-1101. Interior lately restored. The 
Gothic cloisters are tolerably preserved. The inscription on the great 



24 /. Route 8. SINGEN. From Bale 

bell, cast in 1486: Vivos voco, mortuos plango, fulgura frango, 
suggested Schiller's beautiful 'Lied von der Glocke'. The Gothic 
Church of St. John contains an excellent new organ. 

The castle of Munot (properly Vnnot), built in 1564-82 and 
recently restored, commands the town. It consists of a round tower 
containing a winding inclined plane instead of a staircase, with 
walls 16' thick (fine view from the top). 

The Imthurneum , in the Herrenacker, erected by Hr. Imthurn 
(d. 1881), a native of Schaffhausen and a London banker, and pre- 
sented to the town, contains a theatre, a music-school, and exhibi- 
tion rooms. Opposite is the Museum, with natural history specimens 
and antiquities (including those found in the Kesslerloch near 
Thayingen), and the town-library. In the neighbouring govern- 
ment buildings is preserved a large onyx, dating from the Roman 
imperial epoch, and representing a goddess of peace (adm. 11-12 
gratis ; at other times 1 fr.). 

In the pretty Fasenstaub Promenade is a bust of the Swiss his- 
torian Johannes v. Miiller (b. at Schaffhausen, 1752; d. at Cassel, 
1809). The lofty terrace affords a fine view of the Rhine and the Alps. 

From Schaffhausen to the Falls of the Rhine (2 M.), see p. 26. Car- 
riage with one horse to the Schlosschen Worth, and back from Neuhausen 
to Schaffhausen, including stay of 1 hr., 7 fr. Omnibus from the Schaff- 
hausen station 12 times daily, see p. 26. — Pretty walk through the Miihlen- 
thal to the Seekelamtshusli, with a view of the Alps, and back to Schaff- 
hausen by the "Hochfluh (another fine point of view) and the suburb of Steig 
(l'/« hr. in all). Other fine views may be obtained from the Beringer Rand en 
(belvedere), 4 M. to the W. (to Beringen station in 20 min., see p. 23), and 
from the Hohe Randen (2955')> IOV2 M. to the N.W., reached via. Hemmen- 
ttadt or Merishcmsen. 

Stations Herblingen, Thayingen, and Gottmadingen. — 71 M. 
Singen (*Krone ; Ekkehard ; Rail. Restaurant), the junction for the 
Black Forest Railway. About 3 M. to the N.W. rises the *Hohen- 
twiel (2245'), with grand ruins and a noble view (see Baedeker's 
Southern Germany). 

Fkom Singen to Etzweilen, railway in 1/2 hr. (1 fr. 30, 90, 65 c). 
Stations Rielasingen, Ramsen. We cross the Rhine between Hemishofen and 
Rheinklingen (p. 25). 9 M. Etzweilen (p. 31). 

751/2 M. Rickelshausen. — 77i/ 2 M. Radolfzell (*Schiff; Krone; 
*Sonne), an old town on the Untersee, with a Gothic church of 1436. 
Near it, on the lake, is the villa Seehalde, with a monument to the 
poet Victor v. Scheffel (d. 1886). — 78 M . Markelfingen. — 82 M. 
Allensbach. — 86 M. Reichenau is the station for the island of that 
name, situated to the right in the Untersee and connected with the 
shore by an embankment. 

The island of Reichenau, now belonging to Baden, was formerly the 
seat of a celebrated Benedictine Abbey, founded in 724 and secularized 
in 1799. The Schaffhausen and Constance steamers touch at the island 
twice daily. The road from the shore leads past the ruined tower of the 
castle of Schopeln, which was destroyed as early as 1384. The former 
collegiate church of St. George, near the houses of. Oberzell, is a Romanes- 
que basilica of the 11th and 12th cent., with interesting frescoes of the 
10th cent. — In the centre of the island lies its chief village, Mittelzell 



to Constance. STEIN. J. Route 8. 25 

(Mohren, Bar), with 1000 inhabitants. The parish church, orMlinster, is the 
former abbey church, which was consecrated in bOS, and contains the remains 
of Charles the Fat, great-grandson of Charlemagne , who was dethroned 
in 887. The present edifice is a basilica of the 11th and 12th cent., borne 
by columns , with two transepts and a late-Gothic choir of 1448-51 ; the 
treasury, in the sacristy, contains several fine reliquaries. — The church 
of Unterzell, on the N.W. side of the island, is another basilica of the 
9-12th cent. 

The train passes the large barracks of Petershausen and crosses 
the Rhine to (89 M.) Constance (p. 28), by an iron bridge embell- 
ished with statues. 



Steamboat fkom Schaffhausen to Constancy. Charts of the journey 
are sold for 30 c. on board the steamboats. Below the stations are indi- 
cated with daggers. Pier above the bridge, near Schloss Munot (p. 24), op- 
posite Feuerthalen. — Right : Paradies, formerly a nunnery. 

+ Left: Biisingen, a Baden village. 

R. St. Catharinenthal, formerly a nunnery, now a hospital for in- 
curables; opposite (left) Villa Rauschenberg. 

+ R. Diessenhofen (1325'; Adler; Lowe; Hirsch), the Roman Ouno- 
durum. The Rhine is crossed here by a covered wooden bridge , below 
which the steamer lowers its funnel. 

R. RheinUingen ; left, Bibern. We now pass under the handsome 
bridge of the 'Nordostbahn' (see p. 24). L. Hemishofen, with the ruin 
of Wolkenstein above. R. Wagenhausen. 

t L. Stein ("Sonne; 'Babe), a picturesque old town, connected with 
the village of Burg (Wasserfels) by a new wooden bridge, and a station on 
the Winterthur railway (p. 31). The suppressed monastery of St. George 
contains a hall with a vaulted wooden roof, erected in 1515, and embel- 
lished with frescoes. The Rathhaus contains stained glass, old weapons, 
etc. The old chateau of Bohenklingen (1945'), on a hill to the N. of the 
town, affords an admirable view. 

Above Stein is the island of St. Othmar, with the chapel of that name. 
The Rhine widens, the steamer enters the Untersee. R. Eschenz (p. 31) ; 
on the hill above it the chateau of Freudenfels. 

+ L. Oberstaad, an old mansion with a square tower, now occupied 
by dyeworks ; beyond it the suppressed monastery of Oehningen. 

+ R. Mammern (p. 31) ; in the wood, the ruin of Neuburg ; on the 
bank, the house of Olarisegg. 

+ L. Wangen and the chateau of Marbach (now a hydropathic). 

T R. Steckborn, (p. 31). Below it, the former nunnery of Feldbach. 

t R. Berlingen (p. 31). The lake expands, and we now see the island 
of Reichenau (p. 24). On the hill to the right is the chateau of Eugens- 
berg, erected by Eugene Beauharnais, vice-king of Italy, and now the 
property of Count Reichenbach-Lessonitz. 

t R. Marmenbach (p. 31), charmingly situated, above which is the 
handsome pinnacled chateau oi Salenstein ; then, on a wooded hill, Arena- 
berg (1052'), once the residence of Queen Hortense (d. 1837) and her son 
Napoleon III. (d. 1873), now the property of the ex-Empress Eugenie. 

+ L. Reichenau, on the island of Reichenau (p. 24). 

+ R. Ermatingen (p. 31), prettily situated on a promontory; on 
the hill above it, Schloss Wol/sberg (1690'; *H6t.-Pens., pens., incl. R. & A., 
3'/2-6 fr.). The neighbouring Schloss Hard, with its beautiful garden, is 
not visible. 

We now enter the narrow arm of the Rhine connecting the Unter- 
see with the Lake of Constance. 

t R. Oottlieben (Krone), with a chateau, now restored, in which Huss 
and Jerome of Prague, and afterwards Pope John XXII. were confined 
by order of the Council. The chateau and ruin of Castel, on the hill at 
the back of the village, command a charming view. Beautiful retrospect 
of the Untersee, with the peaks of the Huhgau in the distance. 



26 I. Route 9. FALLS OF THE RHINE. 

The banks now become flat, and at places marshy. We thread out' 
way through reedy shallows (1. Petershausen , with large barracks), and 
at length pass under the handsome railway-bridge of Constance (p. 28). 
Passengers are landed at the pier with a lighthouse at its E. end. 

9. The Falls of the Rhine. 

Hotels. On the hill on the right bank , near stat. Neuhausen (p. 23), 
'Schwkizehhof, R., L., & A. 5-6, D. 4-5 fr., well managed (no fees), with 
extensive grounds and the finest view of the Falls and the Alps ; 'Bellevub, 
R., L., & A. from 4 fr. ; omnibuses from both to the station and pier at 
Schaffhausen (l'/2 fr.). At Neuhausen, Hotel Rheinfall, moderate. — On 
the left bank, above the Falls, "Hot. Schloss Laufen, R. 2'/j, pens, from 
5 fr. ; *H6t. Witzio, at stat. Dachsen, >/» M - from the Falls (P- 32 )- uln - 
mination of the Falls with electric and Bengal lights every evening in 
summer (1 fr.). — English Church in the 'Schweizerhof grounds. 

The station for the Falls on the right bank is Neuhausen (p. 23) on the 
Baden Railway, that on the left bank Dachsen (p. 32) on the Swiss line. 
The best way to see the Falls is to start from Neuhausen and follow 
the route described below (cross the bridge to Schloss Laufen, descend to 
the Fischetz , cross to the Schlbsschen Worth, and return through the 
grounds, l l fe hr. in all). This round is often taken in the reverse direc- 
tion, but as the Fischetz, the most striking point of all, is then visited 
first , the other points lose much of their impressiveness. — Travellers who 
desire to combine a visit to the falls with the journey to or from Switzer- 
land alight at stat. Dachsen (allowing luggage to go on to its destination 
and await their arrival), walk or drive (omnibus there and back 1 fr.) 
to (1 M.) Laufen, descend through the grounds to the Fischetz, cross to 
Schlbsschen Worth, and return to Schloss Laufen by the Rheinfallbriicke ; 
or descend from Worth by the road on the right bank to the C/4 M.) vil- 
lage of Nohl, cross the river (ferry 15-20 c), and regain Dachsen in a few 
minutes. — The pleasantest way to visit the Falls from Schaffhausen (p. 23) 
is to drive in an open carriage, via. Feuerthalen, to Schloss Laufen. Or 
the traveller may walk to Neuhausen and cross the railway-bridge to the 
Schloss (2 M.). Omnibuses ply from the railway station at Schaffhausen 
to Neuhausen (Falls of the Rhine) in summer 12 times daily in 20 min. 
(30 c, the two last trips, at 8.30 and 10 p.m., 50 c). — All the points of 
view should if possible be visited, as the traveller's impression of the Falls 
will otherwise be imperfect. 

The Tails of the Rhine are in point of volume the grandest 
in Europe. The Rhine is precipitated in three leaps over an 
irregular rocky ledge, which on the side next the left bank is 
about 60' in height, and on the right bank about 48'. Above the 
Falls the river is about 125 yds. in width. If the rapids and the 
cataracts a few hundred paces farther up be taken into account, the 
total height of the Falls may be estimated at nearly 100'. (Level 
of the Rhine below the falls 1180'.) In June and July the river is 
much swelled by melting snow. Before 8 a.m. and after 3 p.m. 
numberless rainbows are formed by the sunshine in the clouds of 
silvery spray. The spectacle is also very impressive by moonlight. 

Of the four limestone -rocks which rise above the Falls, that nearest 
the left bank has been worn by the action of the water to one-third of 
its original thickness, but has lately been buttressed with masonry. When 
viewed from a boat below, the rocks seem to tremble. The central and 
highest rock, surmounted by a small pavilion, may be reached by boat, 
and ascended by a path protected by a railing. The Falls are here surveyed 
to the best advantage. The passage, which only occupies a few minutes, 




Ingl. Mile 



I 



n DonaitejcJiintftn 















Eg I ■" 






toisnieiuJial 




SCHAFFHAUSI 



^fruhausli 



JuchthaWV 



£u?M^ten . , j,j£l 



tag* ( •»%. C « 




I % 






i#* 



Jestetten 



Bajsadinge 

fiDickekof /7 "J ri J _ , . ^*\r ' 

fi J., I* Sturitlirtmtr £ I»SC 



\ Or/i„ 



Marital 



(njenluini 






CuMiauseriC fHur- xl „ ., .^^&*Jsrfcimj < 

■\CratU 



SfefteiJ 





|\a. 







•*■"*>>, 



S 



VYfifiB 

Yurmsdor/* 

l.mrlau .'-V 

SITsHlPI 



i<*»&)h Vri.sslingfn\ 



^/^ch) 







LiitzSIsukten 

ZELLER SEE ^?jL „ 'W eVxidat % ) 

dlolm • . **k8.lkKnH»u\lffltapBn» \£"aa 

, vjfmn SEE '"^'^-^a^^-TsTr^sX. J. j JLAoJ 
Hemin^nholeii Berlin&n Jfang uiiarA . u r)_ V A^^^Sfea.,,.,^''™' 




slfm| 
Kali 



)l'i,///i(ur.ini I . -SEE. jSirnmi 
,t£clsdorf 

.i.Jp 



AUri&sbaCh 






gr ft* -><Tj I . F^? 8 ^ 



- oaurv /■ \ -SI: "i s a J ,• . •< "rfc^zsSSZ: ^ ,7^' 




^ *>HutUiii4"en ' 
it'' LeutinsiJjeii.. „.ffj'^%. 

irttiberi Lustclorf J><^0»Tk\4 KinfyiS^f^Sx!^ i.. 



rudrf 






Taken* 






Ob. 



HWnga 
JVettle/v 



(/:■■'!/'': 



Ml 



K ran 



Toss *Sc%^^l^ eu ^ rch 

js^f \Htjl.Rreia.,, 
^Vu^iau*- ^^<w^ 

^Velfens- • ^X V-jr.iv 
berf 



J»\ 



•41 



- ' ? " 



Siniacfi 



"jr*"*? .^»^i 



l77«WflK^ 






!h5s'ciwvyi 
. ^3 FJi^^^"C f Jficdeyftiurcfi^ 



^•fiifly, 










■tooo 



JZngLmUes 



JSTorAen 






KDNSTAMZ. 



1: 12.300 

a.i-Jg'lIrtlT 



3*»^ 



v% 



UilN 






§u 



^J 



^r 



$/*?##*£ 



s^- 



JL 






At 






3 



\ ^.CondliumssuaJ CA2 

ZJTaus i.lwheiiKnfmMX 

Jflrclien: 

! S^iuijustiner-JL B.5J 

iJiEinslei' B.& 

| SJ>roUs1iint.X. aA- 

B.Stepltans-X. B.4 

1 IJ'ostaml CM 

ttJlS'b'ajiosgarten, B.3, 

I Q.Sclmelefhnr A.5. 

\O.Sieijesdcrikmal CJ 

ll.Stadt/iaus -XB.4 

A*- Jl8-*WWlBW*W B.4.5 

SgWP >•. J)03 JTeleifr. Bureau C.& 






m 



8# 






'eio, 




J f ... ;,n i — iS p.ftYi. 

J L Era 







,t\ IfWetufdaium 







I 



!i!' ; ilif«" 




Gusthoft* : 
a Insel-HoipJ 



C.3. 



r ffiW /fa//;; C'.. r ). 

<I /An-ft/ C.+. 

e Schonebedc C .5. 

I' liadischev Hot' B.H. 

g Krone C.l 
jVinlerfliurC_^Koinantil]j)rTi I) 



K i"i iT c n 



sDt'l>cs.l.nipBj 



FALLS OF THE RHINE. J. Route 9. 27 

is unattended with danger (1-2 pers. 3 fr. and fee ; each additional person 
1 fr.). — It ia a carious fact that no mention of the Falls of the Rhine 
occurs in history before the year 960. It has therefore been supposed that 
they did not exist until about a thousand years ago, and that, while the 
bed of the river below the falls has gradually been deepened by erosion, 
the deepening process above the falls has been retarded by the hardness 
of the rocky barrier above mentioned. 

Leaving the Neuhausen Station (p. 23), we follow the road to 
the left, and after a few paces descend by a path to the right to the 
village. At the Hotel Rheinfall we descend to the right by a finger- 
post, and after 100 paces take the shady path to the left, passing 
the Gun and Waggon Factory to the ( 1 / 4 hr.) *Rheinfallbriicke, 
210 yds. long, which carries the 'Nordostbahn' over the Rhine a 
little above the Falls (p. 32). The nine arches vary in span (42-66'), 
as it was difficult to obtain foundations for the piers. The footway 
on the upper side of the bridge affords an interesting view of the 
rocky bed of the river, the rapids, and the falls below. 

On the left bank a path ascends to the left in 5 min. to the 
Schloss Laufen (1360'), picturesquely situated on a wooded rock 
immediately above the Falls. (Admission 1 fr.; no other fees.) The 
balcony and a jutting pavilion with stained-glass windows command 
a good survey of the falls, the bridge, and the environs. Camera 
obscura, 50 c. 

Footpaths descend through the grounds to the chief points of 
view : an iron *Pavilion, the wooden *Kdnzeli, andlastly the *Fischetz, 
an iron platform projecting over the foaming abyss. The scene here 
is stupendous. The vast emerald-green volume of water descends 
with a roar like thunder, apparently threatening to overwhelm the 
spectator, and bedewing him with its spray. 

Boats are in readiness here to ferry us across (50 c.) to the 
Schlosschen Worth (Inn, R. l^fr.; camera obscura 50 c), on an is- 
land opposite the Falls , which is connected with the right bank by 
a bridge. This point commands the finest general View of the Falls. 
(Boat to the central rock, see p. 26.) We may now return to the 
Neuhausen station or visit the Schweizerhof. To the W. of the hotel 
is the Fischerhblzli , with shady grounds and picturesque views. Or 
we may follow the road on the right bank, ascending the river 
(benches at intervals , commanding splendid views) to the Laufen 
Ironworks, where a stone parapet near the sluices affords another 
good survey of the Falls. The road thence to the left ascends through 
the village of Neuhausen to the station (see above). 

10. From Friedrichshafen to Constance. Lake of 
Constance. 

Steamboat four times daily in summer (twice direct, in I1/4-I1/2 hr.; 
twice via, Meersburg in 2 hrs.). Between the chief places on the lake, 
Friedrichshafen, Lindau, Bregenz , Rorschach, Romanshorn, Constance, 
Meersburg, Ueberlingen, and Ludwigshafen , the steamers (about 26 in 
number) ply at least once daily, and on the chief routes (Friedrichshafen- 



28 J. Route 10. FRIEDRICHSHAFEN. Lake of 

Constance i 1 /* hr. , Friedrichshafen - Romanshorn 1 hr. , Friedrichshafen- 
Rorschach l'/i hr., Lindau-Romanshorn l'A hr., Rorschach-Lindau 1 hr., 
Constance-Lindan 2'/ 2 hrs.) 3-4 times daily. Good restaurants on board. 
The lake being neutral, luggage is liable to custom-house examination on 
arriving in Germany or Austria from Switzerland, and nominally in the re- 
verse case also. Passengers from one German port to another may avoid 
these formalities by obtaining on embarkation a custom-house ticket for their 
luggage, which will be delivered to them free of charge on their arrival. 
The Lake of Constance (1305'; Ger. Bodensee, Lat. Lacus Brigantinus), 
an immense reservoir of the Rhine, 210 sq. M. in area, is, from Bregenz 
to the influx of the Stockach, 40 M. long, about 7'/2 M. wide, and between 
Friedrichshafen and 1'tweil 835' deep. In beauty of scenery the Bodensee 
cannot vie with the other Swiss lakes ; but its broad expanse of water, its 
picturesque banks, and green hills, the chain of the Appenzell Alps in the 
distance, the snow-clad Sentis in particular, and several snow-peaks of the 
Vorarlberg Alps, visible in clear weather, combine to present a very pleas- 
ing scene. In rough weather sea-sickness is sometimes experienced. The 
best fish are '■Felcheti and trout, and the best wine grown on the banks 
is the l Meersburger'. 

Friedrichshafen (*Deutsches Haus; *Konig v. Wurttemberg ; 
"Krone; Sonne ; Adler ; Miiller's Restaurant), the S. terminus of the 
Wurtemberg Railway (to Stuttgart 6-7!/2 hrs.), is a busy place in 
summer. Its lake-baths attract many visitors, especially from Swabia, 
and it boasts of a Kurhalle with pleasant grounds on the lake. The 
Harbour with its Lighthouse is 1 M. from the railway-station. 

Travellers about to continue their journey by steamer may keep their 
seats until the train reaches the harbour-terminus, near the quay (Restau- 
rant with view-terrace). Those arriving by steamer may procure tickets 
immediately on landing, and step into the train at once. 

The Constance steamer directs its course to the W. On the 
N. bank are the village of Immenstaad , the chateaux of Herrs- 
berg and Kirehberg; then the village of Hagnau. On the N.W. arm 
of the lake, the Ueberlinger See, we next observe the picturesque 
little town of Meersburg ; then the island of Mainau (p. 30), and in 
the distance Ueberlingen. The steamer passes the promontory which 
separates the Ueberlinger See from the bay of Constance , and 
reaches (l*/2 hr.) — 

Constance (comp. Plan, p. 27). — °Insel-H6tel (PI. a; C, 3), form- 
erly a Dominican monastery (p. 30), on the lake, with a garden and fine 
view, R. 3'/2-5, L. >/ 2 , A. 3/4, B. I1/4, D. 4.0. S. 2 1 /*, pens. 7-10 M. ; "Hotel 
Halm (PI. c; C, 5), R. & A. 2 M., B. 80 pf. ; Hotel Schoxebeck (PI. e; 

C, 5), both opposite the railway station; "Heciit (PI. d; C, 4), R., L., & 
A. 3, B. 1, D. 3 M.% -Badiscueb Hop (PI. f; A, 5); "Krone (PI. g; C, 4), 
Anker, Schiff, Barbaeossa, r.oDAN, Falke , Lamm, Schnetzer, in 
the market-place, second class, moderate. — "Poet Restaurant, next the 
lintel Halm ; 'Museitms-Reslaur. (Munich beer) ; Englefs Biergarten near the 
public park; t'afi Maximilian, Bahnhof-Str. — Post-Office (PI. C,4), near the 
station. — Baths in the lake (PI. D, 4, 5), well fitted up (bath 40 pf. ; ferry 10 pf.). 
— English Church Service in summer. — The former Konstanzer Hof (PI. 

D, 1), on the lake, is now an Institute for Nervous Patients (Dr. G. Fischer). 

Constance (1335'; pop. 17,000), a free town of the Empire 
down to 1548, after the Reformation subject to Austria, and since 
the Peace of Pressburg in 1805 a town of Baden, lies at the N.W. 
end of the Lake of Constance, at the efflux of the Rhine. The epis- 



Geoyapii AngtaJt von 









LiitiuelstcUen .1 



Zivujrniy&Tii, Tf X* ^S^fluii 

Aftersiyl 



IJntV* 



5fe 






Aah; 






t.aaf 



Daiscndoil 



auscn 

E El 
Unite Wufti 
Frehi&rftai.-h' 



IltfiidorCs 






.uLsrn 



AltisT \^ , f s 

EUSt'n|| **(rra/ts/uittsen. 

Serf 






JEffX 



« 



t.MoasBusq 



^? 



■S 



Schfielti 



--JFA 






....... -|.., . u r.A -- it. . >>s -+ " **i , v 









\ Qrlstenjj 






Yrasaachl 



■wsied,*.^ ,i ^ i, ' lk ' r : h , ( . . ^ ,1,,,.,/ 



s» S 



_A,V,J-„V/yj- _ tflll 



Wagner &.D e"b es,Xejpgii 




MlfllW 'MoUli, ^■■Jma . 

eiftn JwEHkT II ^Valzeirtiaiiiihi* kVMaf?v---v-5o 







Constance. CONSTANCE. /. Route 10. 29 

copal see, founded in 781 , and held by 87 bishops in succession, 
was deprived of its temporalities in 1802, and suppressed in 1827. 

The *Cathedral (PI. 4; B,3), founded in 1052, originally a cru- 
eiform Romanesque edifice, was rebuilt in its present form in 
1435 and 1680. The Gothic tower, designed by Hiibsch, was erected 
in 1850-57 ; the open spire has a platform on each side , which 
commands an excellent survey of the town and lake (adm. 20 pf.). 

Interior. On the doors of the chief portal are "Reliefs in 20 sections, 
from the life of Christ, carved in oak by Simon Haider in 1470. * Choir- 
stalls, with satirical sculptures, of the same date. The organ-loft was 
enriched in the Renaissance style in 1680. In the nave, which is borne by 
16 monolith columns (28' high , 3' thick), sixteen paces from the entrance, 
is a large stone slab, with a white spot which always remains dry when 
the rest is damp. On this spot Huss is said to have stood on 6th July, 
1415, when the Council sentenced him to be burned at the stake. The N. 
chapel adjoining the choir contains a "Death of the Virgin, in stone, date 
1460. In the left aisle is the monument of J. H. v. Wessenberg (see below). 

The Treasury (verger V2-I M.) contains missals of 1426 with miniatures. 
On the E. side of the church is a Crypt, containing the Chapel of the Se- 
pulchre, a representation of the Holy Sepulchre in stone, 2C high (13th 
cent.). Adjoining the church on the N. stand two sides of the once hand- 
some "Cloisters, erected about 1480 in the Gothic style. 

The Wbssenbekg-Haus (PI. 15; B,3), once the residence of the 
benevolent Hr. v. Wessenberg (d. 1860), who for many years was 
the administrator of the bishopric, contains a collection of pictures, 
engravings, and books, bequeathed by him to the town, and a num- 
ber of paintings and sketches left by M. Ellenrieder (d. 1853), a 
lady-artist. 

The late-Gothic church of St. Stephen (PI. 6; B,4), of the 15th 
cent., with its slender tower , but disfigured externally, contains 
interesting sculptures in wood and stone. — The "Wessenberg-Str. 
leads hence to the Obere Markt, at the corner of which is the house 
'Zum Hohen Haferi (PI. 2 ; B, 4), where, according to the modern 
inscription, Frederick, Burgrave of Nuremberg, was invested with 
the March of Brandenburg by Emp. Sigismund on 18th April, 1417. 
Adjacent is an old house (now the Hotel Barbarossd), styled by 
the inscription Curia Pads, in which Emp. Frederick I. concluded 
peace with the Lombard towns in 1183. 

The Stadt-Kanzlei , or Town Hall (PI. 12; B, 4, 5), erected 
in 1593 in the Renaissance style, and embellished in 1864 on the 
facade with frescoes relating to the history of Constance, contains the 
Municipal Archives in the lower rooms (2800 charters , chiefly from 
the Reformation period). Handsome inner court. — In the market- 
place stands a Wingless Victory, by Baur (PI. 10), erected in memory 
of the war of 1870-71. 

The Rosgabten (PL 8; B, 5), the old guild- house of the 
butchers, contains the *Rosgarten Museum, a line collection of pre- 
historic remains, antiquities of Constance and natural history spec- 
imens (adm. 40 pf.). 

The Kaufhaus (PI. 1; C,4) on the lake, erected in 1388, contains 



30 /. Route 10. CONSTANCE. 

the large hall, 52 yds. long, 35 yds. wide, and borne by ten mass- 
ive oaken pillars, where the conclave of cardinals met at the time 
of the Great Council (1414-18). The hall has been restored and 
adorned in 1875 with frescoes by Pecht and Schworer from the his- 
tory of the town (adm. 20 pf.). Upstairs a collection of Indian 
and Chinese curiosities, the property of the castellan (40 pf.). 

The Dominican Monastery (PI. a; C. 3), in which Huss was 
confined , on an island, has been partly converted into a hotel 
('Insel-Hotel', p. 28). The well-preserved Romanesque cloisters 
(with frescoes by Haberlin, illustrating the history of the con- 
vent) and the finely vaulted dining-room (formerly the church) are 
worthy of a visit. 

Pleasant promenade in the Stadtgarten on the lake, with a 
marble bust of Emp. William I. and charming view. 

The house in which Huss was arrested, in the Hussen-Strasse 
near the Schnetzthor (PI. A, 5), is indicated by a tablet with a por- 
trait of the reformer in relief, put up in 1878. Adjoining it is an 
old relief, of 1415, with derisive verses. Some houses farther on, at 
the 'Obere Laube', a bronze tablet with an inscription designates the 
spot where Jerome of Prague was imprisoned in 1415-16. In the 
Briihl, 'tiM. to the W. of the town, a large bonlder with inscrip- 
tions marks the spot where these illustrious reformers suffered 
martyrdom. 

Fine view of the lake and the Vorarlberg and Appenzell Alps from 
the "Allmannshdhe ( 3 /4 hr.), with belvedere (Restaurant), 5 min. above the 
village of Allmannsdorf, on the road to the JIainau. — Pleasant walks to 
the Loretto - Kapelle 0/2 hr.); the Jacob, a restaurant with a fine view 
('/a hr.); and the Eleine Rigi, above Miinsterlingen (Inn; 1 hr.). 

In the N. W. arm of the Lake of Constance (Ueberlinger See, p. 28), 
41/2 M. from Constance, lies the pretty island of "Mainau, formerly the seat 
of a commandery of the Teutonic order, as is indicated by a cross on the 
S. side of the chateau, which was built in 1746. The island, i'/2 M. in 
circumference, is connected with the mainland by an iron bridge 650 paces 
long. Since 1853 it has been the property of the Grand Duke of Baden, and 
is laid out in pleasure-grounds. Steamboat from Constance in 55 min. ; 
small boat (a pleasant trip of 1 hr.) 5 Jl. and gratuity; carriage for 1 person 
5JI., two persons 6 Jl.). Walkers take a shorter route, partly through plea- 
sant woods (1 hr.). 

11. From Rorschach to Constance and Winterthur 

(Zurich J . 

Cony). Maps, pp. 28, 26. 

60 M. Railway (Nordostbatm) in 4Vi-5 3 'i hrs. (fares 9 fr. 75, 6 fr. 85, 
4 fr. 80 c). ' 

Rorschach, see p. 50. The line skirts the lake of Constance, 
of which it affords pretty glimpses. Rising conspicuously above the 
woods on the N. bank is Heiligenberg (1065' above the lake), a 
chateau of Prince Furstcnberg. Stations Horn (p. 50), Arbon 
(*Biir; Engel; Kreuz; Pens. Seebad), a small town on the site of 
the Roman Arbor Felix. — 7^2 M. Egnach. 



STECKBORN. I. Route 11. 31 

9V2M. Romanshorn, see p. 47. — 12 M. Vttwyl; 13 M. Kesswyl 
(Bar; Pens. Seethal), well-to-do villages. To the right, on the 
lake, the Moosburg is visible. — 95 M. OiMingen, with a chateau ; 
16 M. Altnau; 18'/ 2 M. Miimterlingen (Pens. Schelling), with a 
lunatic asylum. — 21 M. Kreuzlingen (*Eelvetia ; Lowe), a pleas- 
ant little town with the old Augustinian abbey of that name, at pres- 
ent a seminary for teachers. The church contains a curious piece of 
wood-carving of the 18th cent., with about 1000 small figures. 

22 M. Constance (a terminus station), see p. 28. The train 
backs out and runs towards the W. through a fertile district. 23 M. 
Emmishofen- Egelshofen, 25 M. Tagerweilen, thriving villages ; 
on the Rhine, to the right, Oottlieben (p. 25). Near (28 M.) 
Ermatingen (* Hot. -Pens. Adler, pens. incl. R. 4 1 / 2 -5 fr. ; Krone) 
we approach the green Untersee, which we now skirt. Charming 
views ; in the distance, to the N.W., rise the peaks of the Hohgau 
(p. 25). Near Ermatingen, on the height to the left, are the cha- 
teaux of Wolfsberg (p. 25) and Hard ; then Arenaberg (p. 25), and 
near (28^2 M.) Mannenbach (*Pens. Schiff, 4-5 fr.) the handsome 
Salenstein (p. 25). To the right, in the lake, the large island of 
Reichenau (p. 24); on the left, Schloss Eugensberg (p. 25). At 
(30^2 M.) Berlingen the Untersee attains its greatest width (5 M.), 
after which it divides into two branches. 

32 M. Steckborn (*Lbwe ; Krone ; Sonne), a small town with 
a castellated 'Kaufhaus', lately restored. Below it, on the right, 
the iron-foundry of Feldbach, once a nunnery. On the right, 
farther on , the mansion of Olarisegg ; to the left , in the wood, 
the ruin of Neuburg. On the opposite (N.) bank are Wangen and 
the hydropathic establishment of Marbach (p. 25). 

36 M. Mammern (Ochs, at the station), with a chateau, used as 
a Hydropathic Establishment (pension). Then, on the right bank, 
Oberstaad, and on the hill the abbey of Oehningen (p. 25). At 
(37 M.) Eschenz the Untersee again narrows into the Rhine (p. 25). 
We follow the left bank to the station for (39 M.) Stein (p. 25), 
on the right bank , commanded by the castle of Hohenklingen ; 
and then turn to the left to (41 M.) Etzweilen (Rail. Restaurant ), 
the junction for Singen (p. 24). 

On the left, as we proceed to the S., is the vine-clad and 
wooded Stammheimer Berg (1716'). 43i/ 2 M. Stammheim; 48y 2 M. 
Ossingen. "We now cross he Tftwrby a bold iron bridge, 148' high, 
borne by seven iron buttresses. Stations Thalheim-Altikon, Dyn- 
hard, Seuzach, and Oberwinterthur, a small town with an old Ro- 
manesque church (tower modern), the Roman Vitodurum. 

60 M. Winterthur and thence to (76 M.) Zurich, see p. 46. 



32 

12. From Schaffhausen to Zurich. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 26, 38. 

35 M. Railway (Nordostbahn) in 2 hrs.: to Winterthur 1 hr., to Zurich 
1 hr. (fares 5 fr. 95 c, 4 fr. 20 c, 3 fr.). Views on the right. 

Schaffhausen , see p. 23. The line skirts the lofty Fiisenstaub 
Promenade (p. 24), and passes below the villa Charlottenfels (p. 23). 
On the right, high above, is the Waldshut railway (p. 23), which 
passes through a tunnel under Charlottenfels. Immediately beyond 
a long cutting we cross the Rheinfallbrucke (see p. 27), obtaining 
a glimpse of the falls to the right, and enter a tunnel, 71 yds. long, 
under Schloss Laufen (p. 27). On emerging, and looking back to 
the right, we obtain another beautiful glance at the falls. 

3 M. Dachsen (1296'; "Hotel Witzig, R. & B. 2 fr. 75, B. 1 fr. 
30 c.) lies 1 M. to the S. of Schloss Laufen (comp. p. 26). As the 
train proceeds, it affords pleasing views at intervals of the bluish-green 
Rhine in its deep and narrow channel , enclosed by wooded banks. 

51/2 M. Marthalen. The valley of (10y 2 M.) Andelfhigen (1298' ; 
Lowe) soon begins to open, and that thriving village appears in the 
distance to the right, on the steep bank of the Thur. We approach it 
by a wide curve, and cross the Thur above the village by an iron 
bridge 113' high. We then skirt the river for a short distance, and 
reach Andelfingen on the S. side. The site of the station has been 
excavated in an ancient moraine. 

The route is now less interesting. 13 M. Henggart, i j^ M. to the 
N.W. of which is the chateau of Goldenberg (pens., moderate). 
14 M. Hettlingen. The vine-clad slopes of Neftenbach, to the right, 
produce the best wines in N. Switzerland, the finest of which is 
Oallenspitz. Near Winterthur the broad valley of the Toss is entered. 

19 M. Winterthur, and thence to (35 M.) Zurich, see p. 46. 

13. Zurich and the Xletliberg. 

Railway Stations. Central Station (PI. H, J, 3, 4) at the lower (N.) 
end of the town, 3 /4 M. from the lake (omnihus 75 c.-l fr., each box 20 c. ; 
cab for i-2 pers. 80 c.).— Eiige Station (PI. D, 2), on the left bank of the 
lake (p. 41). — Uetli Station (PI. F, 1), also for the Sihlthalbahn (p. 39). 
— Steamboats (see p. 39) start helow the Tonhalle (PI. C, 5) and from the 
Stadthaus-PlaU. 

Hotels. "Hotel Badr ad Lac (PI. a; E, 3; closed in winter), with a 
pretty garden and delightful view, R., L., & A. from 6, D. 5fr. ; *Gb.- 
Hot. Bellevue (PI. b; E, 4), on the lake, with fine view, R., L., & A. 
from 41/2, D. D fr. ; 'National (PI. d; H, 3), "Victoria (PI. c; H, 8), R., 
L., & A. 31/2-5, D. 4 fr., both opposite the station; Hot. de l'Epee (PI. 
e ; G, 4), by the lower bridge, Ii. & L. from 3, D. 3-3>/2 fr. ; "Hotel Baub- 
Ville (PI. f; F,3), R., L., & A. from 3, 1). 4fr.; "Kuppee's Hotel Habis 
(PI. g ; II, 3), R., L., <fc A. 21/2-31/2, B. li/ 4 , D. 31/2 fr., at the station; Hotel 
de Zurich- (PI. h ; E, 5), R., L., & A. 3'/2, D. 3>/ 2 fr. ; CiooGNe (PI. i; F, 4), 
commercial; "St. Gotthard (PI. k; H, 3) and "Wanner's Hotel (PI. 
1; H, 3). Bahnhof-Str. ; Hotel Uaunhof (PI. m ; H, 3) and Stadthof (PI- 
n; H,3,4), R., L., & A. 31/4, B. iy 4 , D. 3 fr., both near the station; Hot. 
• 'bntkal (PI. 0; H, 41, on the ri^lit bank of the Limmat, near the station, 
D. incl. wine 3 fr. ; "Schweizerhof (PI. p; G, 4), R. & A. 2V2, B. li/«, D., 



EURICH 

1: 14-.000 
J Slock 

7 



l 



P.avk-' 



Baa 



z 



' ' 



'o 



~X 



-J 



«? 



#«£' 









V 



I'ulr Hiii'fili 



,#ytK- rt id 



i-1? 



i aX 



a 



K , tjiiittr 



f 



S{> 



* ' Vmen-QuSrtr{.'^ ." 

e 
5 






s* 



pj 



r "<* 



** 



U H I C. £: E S SEE 



Skefila-Quai 



' r J 



*e ? 



l"4 "- 



I! 



_^r^ 



ll Ditfour 



* V -. 



•> T. 



S 



M 



^ 



*& 



£* 



ri 



, *>r *<5* 



l>€ 



m ♦* 



^tt.? 



J 



-. ,T/n< 



***4 



c- 



N- 



.WT 1 

~.("»ii-Mrt». 



. IV? 



1^ ■• 



:#* 



5, -jsanic Pejjifc--Jr 









_!>ji£i 



<i»»s 



4"-. ,^!§nW\ Up 

B E F 




W; S X./.. "- *:° ' ,> B Knfl>ii>*m.Ss- 







■ESS*"' 



ks: 






«6 , S*'" „-S^ r 



SK 









OWiBRSTMS S 



vs 



i 






Gfo^raph. Anet v."Wagner A"DeLes , Leipzig 



ZURICH. J. Route 13. 33 

incl. wine, 3'/2 fr., 'Limmathof (PI. q ; II, 4), and Hotel Juea, on the 
Limmat-Quai; Pfauen (PI. t; D, 6), next the Summer Theatre (see below); 
SchwabzerAdleb, moderate; Rothes Haus (PI. r; F,4), and Seehof (PI. s ; 
F, 4, 5), on the Sonnen-Qnai ; 'Sonne, Keone, Hiesch, Lamm, Lowe, Schiff, 
etc., unpretending. Visitors are received at all these hotels en pension, the 
charges being reduced in spring and autumn. — Pensions. "Pension Neptcn 
at Seefeld, near Zurich, 6-7 fr.; near it, "Weisses Kkeuz and Pension 
Hauseb; 'Beau-Site, Dufourstrasse, near the Alpen-Quai, pens, from 5 fr.; 
''Villa Schanzenbkeg (Frau Hepp), Schonbergstrasse 2 (6-8 fr.); Sonne, 
at TJnterstrass ; Blank- Jaquet, in Oberstrass, next the Polytechnic, pens. 
incl. R- 5fr. ; "Tiefenau, atHottingen (5 fr.); Kakolinenbukg and Forster, 
at Flunlern, on the hill, IV2 M. to the E. of Zurich. The Waid, see below. 
The 'Uetlibers, see p. 38. 

Restaurants and Cafes. "Sail. Restaurant ; " Orsini (in the Hotel Baur- 
Ville), Zunfthaus zur Waag, both in the Frau-Munsterplatz (Munich beer); 
Caffs National and Satis, both near the station; Wiener Cafi, St. Ootthard, 
Wanner, Bahnhof-Str. ; Central, Centralhof. On the right bank : "Kronen- 
halle, D. 2 J /2 fr.; Tonhalle (see below), on the lake, D. (11 to 2) 3 fr.-, 
Saffran, opposite the Rathhaus ; Summer Restaurant in the Platz Promenade 
(p. 37). — Ices. Spriingli, Parade-Platz; Bourry, TJntere Kirchgasse, on the 
Uto-Quai. — Beer. "Kropf, in Gassen, Munich beer; "Cafi Orsini (see above); 
Stadtkeller, behind the Limmathof; "Metzgerbriiu, Beatengasse; Franzis- 
kaner, corner of Stiissihofstatt and Niederdorfstr. ; Meierei, etc.; Draht- 
schmiedli, with garden on the Limmat (p. 37) ; also at the above mentioned 
cafe's. — Wine. Valtellina wine at the Velllinerhalle ; Walliser Weinhalle, 
near the Schweizerhof. 

Baths in the lake at the Stadfhaus-Platz (PI. E, 4), at the suburb of 
Enge (PI. C, 3), and, for ladies, in the Limmat below the Bauschanze 
(PI. E, F, 4). Neumiinster Baths (PI. F, 5), at the S. end of the town. — 
Warm Baths (vapour, etc.) at Treichler's, at the Werdmuhle in the Bahn- 
hof-Str., and at Stacker's, in the Miihlgarten. 

Post and Telegraph Office (PI. F, 3), Bahnhof-Strasse; branch-offices 
in various parts of the town. 

Cabs. Drive within the town, or not exceeding 1/4 hr., 1-2 pers. 80c, 
3-4 pers. lfr. 20c, each box 20 c. ; in the evening 10c extra for the lamps; 
from 10 p.m. to 6 a.m. double fares. For i/j hr., 1 fr. 50 or 2 fr. 20 c; 
3 /4 hr., 2 fr. or 2 fr. 90 c; 1 hr., 2 fr. 50 or 3 fr. 60 c, etc. 

Tramway from the Station through the Bahnhof-Str. to the suburb of 
Enge; across the Bahnhofbriicke and by the Limmat-Quai, Tonhalle-Str., 
and Seefeld-Str. to Riesbach and Tiefenbrunnen (near Zollikon); an< from 
the Parade-Platz northwards to the cemetery of Aussersihl. 

Steam-launches ('Dampfschwalben , ) ply on the Limmat and the lake- 
front of the city every 15 min. (fares 10-50 c); stations : Rathhaus (PI. F. 4); 
Wasserkirche (p. 36, by the Miinsterbriicke); Theatre (PI. D, 5); Mainau- 
strasse; Zurichhorn; thence across the lake to Wollishofen, on the W. bank, 
and past the suburb of Enge (p. 35) to the Stadthansplatz (PI. E, 4) and 
back into the Limmat. 

Bowing-boats for 1-2 pers. 50 c. per hour ; for ,3 or more pers. 20 c. 
each per hour ; each rower 60 c. per hour. 

Cable Tramway (Ziirichbergbahn) from the Limmat-Quai to the Poly- 
technic (PI. H, 4, 5), every few min. from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. (in summer from 
6 a.m. to 9.30 or 10 p.m. ; fare, in either direction, 10 c. ; journey 2'/2 min.). 

Popular Resorts. "Belvoir, a beautiful park at the S. extremity of the 
Alpen-Quai (PI. D, 3), with restaur. ; adm. 20 c, concerts 50 c, free on Sun. 
(tramway Paradeplatz-Enge) ; Ziirichhom(Pl. A, 6), park with restaur, and 
Nageli's Museum of stuffed Alpine animals (50 c.), station of the steam- 
launches (see above); Tonhalle (PI. E, 5) on the lake, with restaurant; 
concerts every evening in summer (70 c). Pfauen Summer Theatre (PI. F, 6) ; 
operettas, etc. Flatten- Garten (PI. G, 6), adjoining the Polytechnic; ex- 
hibitions of animals; concerts. The "Waid on the Eaferberg, 3 M. to the 
N.W. of ,the town. Jakobsburg (Munich beer), Sonnenberg, both on the 
slope of the Zurichberg, above Hottingen. The "Uetliberg is the finest 

Baedeker, Switzerland. 15th Edition. 3 



34 I. Route 13. ZURICH. Situation. 

point in the environs (by railway in l /a hr. ; see p. 38). — Information as 
to excursions, objects of interest, etc., at the Offizielles Verkehrs-Bureem, 
on the ground-floor of the Exchange buildings. 

English Church Service in the Chapel of St. Anne (PI. E, 3), near the 
Pelikan-Str., at 8, 10.30, & 5 o'cl. — Presbyterian Service (Church of Scot- 
land) in summer. 

British Consul. Henry Angst. Esq., liBleicherweg; office-hours 9V*-llVs« 
— American Consul. Geo. L. Catlin, Esq., Bbrsen-Str. 14, 9-12 and 2-4 p.m. 

Permanent Exhibition at Slaub & Co's., Parade-Platz (gratis). — Anglo- 
American Pharmacy, Dr. C. Diinnenberg, Tonhalle-Platz. 

Zurich (1345' ; pop. 104,406, including the eleven recently in- 
corporated 'Ausgemeinden' or suburbs), the Roman Turicum, the 
capital of the canton, lies at the N. end of the lake, on the green 
and rapid Limmat , which divides it into the ' Grosse Stadt' on the 
right, and the 'Kleine StaM on the left bank. On the W. side flows 
the Sihl, an unimportant stream except in spring, which falls into 
the Limmat below the town. Zurich is one of the busiest manufac- 
turing towns in Switzerland , silk and cotton being the staple pro- 
ducts. (There are 10,000 silk-looms in this canton.) At the same 
time it is the intellectual centre of German Switzerland. Its schools 
are in high repute, having for centuries sent forth men of distinction, 
such as Bodmer, Hottinger, Orelli, Gessner, Lavater, Hess, Pestalozzi, 
Heidegger, Horner, Hirzel, Henry Meyer, the friend of Goethe, and 
many others. 

The Situation of ZCkich is very beautiful. Both banks of the clear, 
pale-green lake are enlivened with villages, orchards, and vineyards, scat- 
tered over a highly cultivated country. In the background rise the snow- 
capped Alps ; to the left is the crest of the Glarnisch, then the perpendicular 
sides of the Griesetstock (9200'), near it on the right the P/annstock, and farther 
on, the Drusberg, the ice-clad Bifertenstock, and the Tbdi (the highest of the 
group, the two last rising above the Lmththal); in front of these the Cla- 
riden, with their westernmost point the Kammlistock (10,610') ; between this 
and the double-peaked Scheerhorn lies the Grief Glacier; then on the N. 
side of the Schachenthal the long Ross- Stock Chain with its fantastic peaks; 
the broad Windgalle; between this and the Scheerhorn appears the dark 
summit of the lower Mythen near Schwyz ; above the depression between 
the wooded Kaiserstock and the Rossberg towers the pyramidal Bristenstock, 
near Amsteg on the St. Gotthard route ; then, if we occupy a commanding 
position, the Blackenstock and Uri-Rothstock , and part of the snow -moun- 
tains of the Engelberger Thai, appearing above the Albis, to the right, the 
northernmost point of which is the Uetliberg, with the hotel on its summit. 

In the Bahnhop - Platz (PI. H, 4) a fountain with a bronze 
Statue of Alfred Escher (d. 1882), the statesman and founder of 
the St. Gotthard Railway, by Kissling, was erected in 1889. The 
Bahnhof-Strasse (PI. H, J, 3), nearly 3/ 4 M. long, leads hence S. to 
the lake. It passes on the right, in the Linth-Escher-Platz (PI. H, 3), 
the Linth-Escher School; then, on the right, the Post Office and the 
Credit- Anstalt (PI. F, 3); on the left the Centralhof, a block of houses 
with tempting shops, and the Kappeler Hof; and on the right the 
Zurich Cantonal Bank and the Exchange (PI. E, 3). The Stadthaus- 
Platz, which is adorned with flower-beds and shrubs, is adjoined by 
a Terrace on the lake (PI. E, 4), commanding a beautiful view; to 
the right is the steamboat-quay, to the left, a bathing-establishment 



Polytechnic. ZURICH. /. Route 13. 35 

(p. 33). — The broad *Alpen-Quai, with its pleasant promenades and 
fine 'views of the lake and the Alps, skirts the lake to the right as far 
as the new *Belvoir Park to the S. of the suburb of Enge (p. 33). 

To the E. from the Stadthaus-Platz the handsome Quaibrucke 
(PI. E, 4; 180 yds. long), constructed in 1882-83, crosses the 
Limmat near its issue from the lake. Below the bridge, on the left 
bank of the Limmat, is the Bauschanze, a small pentagonal island, 
shaded with trees, and connected with the bank by a bridge. On 
the right bank of the lake also new promenades, with charming views, 
extend past the Tonhalle (p. 33) and the handsome new Theatre 
(PI. D, 5) as far as the new harbour of Biesbach and the park of 
Zurichhom (p. 33). 

Going straight on from the Quaibrucke, we ascend the Rami- 
Strasse (PI. E-H , 5 , 6) , then turn to the right to the Hohe 
Promenade (PI. E, 5,6), a loftily situated avenue of lime-trees. 
Beautiful view (best by morning - light) from the plattform with 
the Monument of Nageli (d. 1836), a favourite vocal composer. — 
From the N. end of the Hohe Promenade a road passing the N. side 
of the Old Cemetery rejoins the Rami-Strasse, where in the Kantons- 
schulplatz (to the left) is the marble monument of Ignaz Heim 
(d. 1883), the composer. The street ascends to the Cantonal School 
(PI. G, 6), and then bends to the N. To the left is the Physical and 
Physiological Institute of the University, to the right are the Cantonal 
Hospital(P\. H,6), beyond itthe Physical Institute of the Polytechnic, 
the School of Forestry and Agriculture, and the Chemical Laboratory 
(PI. J, 5). 

The handsome *Polytechnic (PI. H, 5), to the left, designed by 
O. Semper (d. 1879), and erected in 1861-64, is the seat of the 
University of Zurich (founded in 1832; 600 students, 88 professors 
and lecturers) and of the federal Polytechnic School (800 students, 
107 professors and lecturers). 

The Main Entrance is on the W. side. In the vestibule and on the 
staircase are busts of Kopp and Bolley, the chemists. On the ground- 
floor are the Archaeological Collection (casts, Greek vases, "Terracottas from 
Tanagra, etc.; Sun. 10-12, Tues. and Frid. 2-4). On the Fihst Floor are 
busts of 0. Semper (see above) and C. Cvlmann (d. 1861), the engineer, and 
the Mineralogical and Palaeontological Collection. On the second floor are 
the Zoological Collection (Tours. 8-12 and 2-6) and the Aula, handsomely 
decorated , with mythological ceiling - paintings by Bin of Paris and a 
marble bust of Orelli (d. 1849), the celebrated philologist, by Meili. 
Splendid view from the balcony. The custodian, who opens the Aula, 
conducts visitors also to the Terbace on the top of the building, which 
commands the best survey of the town and its beautiful environs. 

The Collection of Engineering is shown only to professional engineers. 
The Mechanical and Technical Collection is open daily, 8-12 and 2-6 (adm. 
50 c.); the Semper Museum (in the Architectural School) on Mon., Wed., 
& Sat. 2-4 (gratis). 

To the S. is an Asylum for the Blind and Dumb ; lower down 
to the left, the Kunstgebaude ('Kiinstler-Gutli' ; PI. G, 5), contain- 
ing the Picture Gallery of the Artists' Union (open on Sat. 2-4, 
Sun. 10-12, free ; at other times, 50 c). 

3* 



36 J. Route 13. ZURICH. Town Library. 

Pictures by the older Zurich artists (chiefly portraits): //. Asper, J. 
Ammann, S. Hofmann, K. Meyer, and others. Millenet, Return of the Zii- 
richers from the battle of Tattwyl; Angelica Kauffmann, Winckelmann ; 
Fiissly, Portrait of Eodmer; L. Hess, Landscapes; Scheuchzer, The Fnscher- 
thal; Deschwanden, The Maries at the Sepulchre; Steffan, Mountain tor- 
rent; Botchard, Scenes from the history of Zurich; Roller, The Engel- 
berger Thai, Midday repose, Autumn evening; Holzhalb, The Wetter- 
horn; Diday, At the Handeck, Scene in the Valais; Veillon, Evening on 
the Lake of Lucerne ; Oirardet , The sick child ; Anker, Pestalozzi ; Grob, 
The artist on his travels; Frohlicher, Forest scene in Upper Bavaria; Toiler, 
Wedding in the Amperthal; Corrodi, L'ncle and nieces; Fug. Girardet, 
Halt in the desert; Stilckelberg, Charcoal-burner in the Jura; Buchser, 
Italian pastoral scene; "Bbcklin, Spring; Baade, Sea-pieces; Rigaud, Por- 
traits; Tischbein, Portrait of Bodmer; Marie Fllenrieder, Portrait. 

We descend to the lower town either from the Kunstgebaude 
by steep streets, or (preferable) by the cable-tramway (p. 33) from 
the N.E. side of the Polytechnic, and turn to the left along the 
Limmat-Quai. At the Marktbrucke (PI. G, 4) we see on our left 
the Rathhaus (PI. F, Gr, 4), a massive building of 1699, on our right 
the handsome Fleischhalle, or meat-market (PI. G, 4), and opposite 
to it the Lese-Museum (introduction by a member required). 

Crossing the Rathhaus-Quai on which is the Ruden, restored in 
the German Renaissance style, containing the Swiss educational 
exhibition and the Pestalozzi cabinet, we next come to the Miinster- 
brucke (PI. F, 4). Adjoining the bridge on the left is an open 
vestibule leading to the Town Library, established in an old church 
(1479), known as the Wasserkirche. It contains 130,000 vols, and 
many valuable MSS. (open on week-days 9-12 and 4-6; fee 50c, 
for a party 1 fr.). 

A letter of Zwingli (see below) to his wife ; Zwinglis Greek Bible with 
Hebrew annotations in his own handwriting ; autograph letter of Henry IV. 
of France and a cast of his features ; three autograph Latin letters of Lady 
Jane Grey to Antistes Bullinger ; letter of Frederick the Great, dated 1784, 
to Prof. Miiller; Portraits of burgomasters and scholars of Zurich, includ- 
ing Zwingli; marble bust of Lavaler by Dannecker; marble bust of Pesta- 
lozzi by Imhof ; eight panes of stained glass of 1506. Mutter's Relief of part 
of Switzerland, and one of the Engelberger Thai on a much larger scale, 
are executed with great care and accuracy. 

The Helmhaus, adjoining the Wasserkirche, contains the *Anti- 
quarian Museum (adm. daily, 8-12 and 2-6, fee 50 c, Wed. after- 
noon free), including a large and excellent collection of relics from 
the ancient Swiss lake-villages, coins, etc. — On the quay to the S. 
of the Wasserkirche is a bronze Statue of Zwingli, who was the 
incumbent of the Gross-Miinster from 1019 down to his death in 
1531 (see p. 71), by Natter (1885). 

The steps opposite the Miinsterbriicke lead to the Gross-Munster 
(PI. F, 4), erected in the Romanesque style of the 11 -13th cen- 
turies. The upper stories of the towers are Gothic, and in 1799 
they were crowned with helmet- shaped tops with gilded flowers. 
On the W. tower is enthroned Charlemagne with gilded crown and 
sword, in recognition of donations made by him to the church. The 
choir contains three large modern stained-glass windows represent- 
ing Christ, St. Peter, and St. Paul. The church and the adjoining 



Botanic Garden. ZURICH. J. Route 13. 37 

Cloisters, of the beginning of the 13th cent., are open daily in 
summer from 11 to 12 (adm. 20 c, ascent of tower 30 c. ; sacristan, 
Kirchgasse 13). 

"We now return by the Munsterbriicke to the left bank of the 
Limmat. On the left we pass the Frau-Miinsterkirche (PI. F, 4), 
built in the middle of the 13th cent., with a high red-roofed tower. 
Adjacent is the Peterskirehe with its massive tower and large 
electric clock (dials 29' in diameter) , where Lavater (d. 1801) 
was pastor for twenty-three years. In the direction of the Bahn- 
hof-Str. , is the late -Gothic Augustine Church (PI. G, 3), now 
used by the 'Old Catholics', with two altaipieces by Deschwanden. 

In the vicinity , nearly in the centre of the town , rises the 
Lindenhof (PI. G , 3 , 4) , 123' above the Limmat, once a Celtic 
settlement, and afterwards an imperial palace. A little to the N. 
are the laTge House of Correction and the Orphan Asylum (PI. H, 4). 

Crossing the Bahnhof-Str. and following the Pelikan-Str. , we 
reach the Botanic Garden (PL F, 2), which is well stocked with 
Alpine and other plants, and contains bronze busts of A. P. de Can- 
dolle (d. 1841) and Conrad Gessner (d. 1565), and marble busts of 
H. Zollinger, a Swiss botanist (d. in Java, 1859), and Oswald Heer 
(d. 1883) , the naturalist. In the garden rises the Katz, an old 
bastion, forming a lofty platform planted with trees. 

To the E. of the Botanic Garden a bridge crosses the Schanzen- 
graben (the old moat) to the suburb of Selnau. Immediately to the 
left is the Gewerbe-Museum (PI. F, 2), containing industrial collec- 
tions (including a *Room from a patrician house of the 17th cent, 
with fine panelling and stove) and a permanent exhibition (daily 
8-12 and 2-5, except Mon.). Beyond it, towards the Sihl, is the 
TJetliberg Station (PI. F, 1 ; see p. 38). 

In Aussersihl, a new workmen's quarter on the left bank of the 
Sihl, is the Military Depot of Canton Zurich, including barracks and 
an arsenal. The Collection of Arms in the arsenal (PI. H, J, 1 ; 
open on week-days 8-12 and 1.30-6) contains battle-axes, hal- 
berds, armour, flags, and cross-bows, among which last is one of the 
many which claim to have belonged to Tell. Zwinglis Battle-axe, 
taken by the Lucerners atKappel (p. 71),'and once kept at Lucerne, 
was transferred hither, after the War of the Separate League in 1847, 
and is now preserved here with his sword, coat of mail, and helmet. 
— In the Grosse "Werdstrasse in Aussersihl is the new Roman 
Catholic Church (PI. G, 1), embellished with good stained glass 
and altar-pieces by Balmer and Deschwanden. 

The Platzpromenade (PI. J, K, 3, 4), so called from the former 
Schiitzen-Platz, an avenue of fine trees, to the N. of the railway-station, 
between the Sihl and Limmat, affords a cool and pleasant walk. In this 
promenade are the new Landesmuseum (in course of construction), the town 
Aquarium (20 c.) and the simple monuments of the idyllic poet /Salomon 
Gessner (d. 1788) and the minnesinger Joh. Hadlaub. It terminates in the 
'Platzspitz', a point of land formed by the junction of the Sihl with the 
Limmat. A bridge crosses the Limmat to the Drahtschmiedli (PI. K, 3), a 



38 1. Route 13. UETLIBERG. 

beer-garden on the right hank ; and this is also the pleasantest route to 
the Waid (p. 33; we ascend the flight of steps, behind the Drahtschmidli, 
to the right, to the upper road). — On the right bank of the Limmat, 
opposite the Platzpromenade, lies the manufacturing quarter of Zurich, 
with the extensive engine -works of Etcher, TFjw, & Co. (PI. K, 4), who 
have built most of the steamboats that ply on the Swiss and Italian lakes. 

The TJetliberg. 

Railway to the top in 'A hr. (fare 1st class 3 fr. 50 c, 2nd cl. 2 fr.; 
return-ticket, 5 and 3 fr. ; family-tickets for 10 trips up and 10 down, 
available for a year, 20 fr. ; on Sun. and holidays by certain trains 2nd cl. 
return-ticket 2 fr.). This line, 5 l /i M. long, with a maximum gradient of 7 
in 100, is constructed in the ordinary way, but, as on the Rigi Railway, the 
locomotives are placed behind the trains. The station is in the suburb 
of Selnau (p. 37; PI. F, 1), not far from the Botanic Garden, on the Sihl, 
V4 hr. from the Central Station and 12 min. from that of Enge. 

The train (best views to the right) skirts the Sihl for a short 
distance and crosses it to (5 min.) stat. Wiedikon (1390'), where 
the ascent begins. At first we traverse an open slope, with a pleas- 
ant view of Zurich and the valley of the Limmat, and then ascend 
through wood to (17 min.) Stat. Waldegg (2040'). The train then 
describes a long curve on the slope of the hill and reaches the termi- 
nus. About 5 min. above the station is the large * Hot.-Pens.Uetliberg 
(R. & A. 3-5, B. I1/4, D. 4 fr.), and 3 min. higher, at the top of the 
hill, is the Restaurant Uto-Kulm. Pleasant shady walks in the 
woods near the hotel. On the S. side, about J /4 hr. from the top, is 
the Hotel Uto-Staffel (pens. 5 fr.). 

The *TJetliberg (2865'), the northernmost point of the Albis 
range, is the finest point in the environs of Zurich. The view, 
though inferior in grandeur to those from heights nearer the Alps, 
surpasses them in beauty. It embraces the Lake of Zurich and the 
valley of the Limmat; the Alps from the Sentis to the Jungfrau and 
the Stockhorn on the Lake of Thun, with the Rigi and Pilatus in the 
foreground; to the W. the Jura, from the Chasseral on the Lake of 
Bienne to its spurs near Aarau, over which appear some of the 
Vosges Mts. ; farther N. are the Feldberg and Belchen in the Black 
Forest, and the volcanic peaks of the Hohgau, Hohentwiel, Hohen- 
howen, and Hohenstoffeln. Baden with its old castle (p. 19) is also 
prominent. Good panorama by Keller. — On the Uto-Kulm is a 
marble obelisk with a bust of the Zurich statesman Jakob Dubs 
(d. 1879). 

Walk to the Uetlibeks (2 hrs.). The road leads from the Parade- 
Platz (PI. F, 3) via the Bleicher-Weg, the Beder-Strasse, aDd the Uto- 
Strasse. After 1 M. we cross the Sihl, turn to the left via. the Sihl-Strasse 
and Albis-Strasse, and reach ( ! / ( 51.) the Albisgiitli (tavern; cab to this 
point 2-3 fr.). We now turn to the Tight and ascend by a well-trodden 
path winding somewhat steeply up the valley, to the Hdtel Uto-Staffel 
(see above), on the brow of the hill, where a view of the Rigi, Pilatus, 
and the Bernese Alps is disclosed. To the summit 20 min. more. 

From the Uetliberq to the Albis-Hochwacht, a beautiful walk of 
3 hrs., ascending and descending on the Albis range , and chiefly through 
wood. A few minutes' walk beyond the Hot.l Uto-Staffel (see above) we 
keep to the right where the path divides (finger-post), and follow a tolerable 



i 



i IfrnttFtJiur- 



ifamse 



o£t 



iss 






■ /r, v 






Wwzi 



»//&>« "nJ'u&n^iliwql 



'•*fr' { 



Jamkf 



• lift T. r * i^Su-^*"*:. ->h*>c_ ttma&genr \ A 






''//;„ 



BinlTD 



iltfA^.l, 



Ob.lstr 



f 






. ■ *^7 IfiisclililGH] 






If- Ei<," 



HrrHrk 

thaltort" 






> 



U,M«» 






Miit-iOwn. 



*P§ 



'•SrJriHlbjL 






tf/'yiz-jwi^ 









hr. 



Vrf*' v " JttMuNmrM ] 
%l\i\\A* /vnsJmJil jttoff *-\ j, 




£2 



©iSVa ilrnsweil 

JJuJ,f.-.l.il./ r i n a ;!, t$ 



B 


















IfJJUSS 



X? 



't">'< 01,..'' 






llvrh,uh ^ ' *^ — ^// "A; J Atfflri \ful-.iitidi 






Hi/U nmiuti -* *' ** 







W. 



\jM U JK f ~ JU *~f \ 2M %#«i 



W Hittlttl 



%x& 






/ S I' ^1 1 "Zap/hi- .^^J 



-W 



Jdr/scTneijti 



._ Sodert, 



Jfctfid) 



„W 



fpK»e«cefi<jnvr 









r% 



{rrpvrt 



l P; 







'asseitlak 

CHTENSXaf 



W 



oflischjufjl- 



r^0fjf 



t,vew%ctyu 






; -*Jkutenspai 



jsSf ^"sJ? 




v\ 






mithamr Mer ?." " 



-Elm 



Srlm.' 



Schmerikoii^ 



:»**.■/ 






''irvmen.' 



pmioiswald 
men 



a8«3lp;m.g*n ! 



pw 



•a. r 



:,, «u.ihwc, 3 '. oar..,,. ?^ s ? ?,^„.i ^Ms^^ ff 






/*" J' tv 



«WJM - Amncaaif>V\\«// 



;ml«4i^. 



«^'-» H mt.'|f a|gifluil "'« rt '--r 3 



000 



Ihs&s* 



JZyujlish, nuicx . 



LAKE OF ZURICH. J. Route U. 39 

road, skirting the crest of the mountain. Fine view from the Felsenegg 
(Restaurant; finger-post). To the left is the ravine of the Sihl, beyond it 
the blue lake with its thousand glittering dwellings, to the right the pretty 
Tiirler See, and farther distant a fertile hilly tract, with the Alps towering 
in the distance. — 2y 2 hrs. Ober- Albis (2600'; Inn). Beautiful view from 
the Albis- Bochwacht or Schnabel (2835'), l fc hr. to the 8.; still more ex- 
tensive from the Albishorn (3010'), '/* nr - farther. From the Hochwacht a 
good forest-path leads to the E. (finger-post) to the forester's house of Unter- 
Sihlwald (good quarters), on the Sihl, whence we may reach Zurich by the 
Sihlthal Line in s/ 4 hr. ; while to the W. a road leads past the small Tiirler 
See to (3 M.) Hansen (p. 71). 

Sihlthal Railway from Zurich to Sihlwald, 8V2 M. in 3 A hr., via.Ad- 
lisicil and Langnau-Oattikon. Near the station of Gontenbach ('/2hr. by rail) 
is the Langenberg, a park I72M. in length, belonging to the town of Zurich 
and stocked with deer, chamois, etc. (Restaurant). 

14. From Zurich to Coire. Lakes of Zurich and 
Walenstadt. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 52, 60. 

Steamboat on the right (S.) bank to Rapperswil 7 times daily in 
2'/4 hrs. (2 fr. 50 or 1 fr. 80 c). Smaller steamers ply between the N. and 
S. banks. From Rapperswil to Schmerikon, thrice daily in 1 hr. 10 min. 
— An excursion - steamer starts on San. in summer (except in very bad 
weather) from the Tonhalle at 10 a.m., skirts the right bank to a point 
opposite Mannedorf, and returns by the left bank, without halting, reach- 
ing Zurich about noon (fare 2 fr.). 

Railway to Coire (79 M.) by Wallisellen, Rapperswil, Weesen, and Sar- 
gans in 33/4- 4^4 hrs. (12 fr. 45, 8fr. 75, 6fr. 25 c). The train does not ap- 
proach the Lake of Zurich till it reaches Rapperswil. — Railway on the 
Left (S.) Bank from Zurich to Richtersweil and Glarus : to Ziegelbriicke 
(p. 43, junction for Weesen) 36 M. , in l»/2-2 hrs. (6 fr. 5, 4fr. 25, 3fr. 5 c.) ; 
to Glarus, 43 M., in 2-21/2 hrs. (7 fr. 20, 5 fr. 5, 3 fr. 60 c). Comp. R. 19. 

The*LakeofZuricb.(1340'),25M. long, 2i/ 2 M. broad at its widest 
part, and 470' deep, is fed by tbe Linth and drained by the Limmat. 
Its scenery , though with no pretension to grandeur , is scarcely 
equalled in beauty by that of any other Swiss lake. The banks rise 
in gentle slopes, at the base of which are meadows and arable land ; 
above these is a belt of vineyards and orchards, and on the E. side 
the hills, here about 2500' high, are wooded. Being sprinkled for 
a long distance with houses, villages, and manufactories, the banks 
are sometimes not unaptly termed the suburbs of Zurich. In the 
background rises a long chain of snow-clad Alps (see p. 34). 

i. Steamboat Journey. — The first station on the right bank 
(to the left when coming from Zurich) is Neumilnster, a suburb of 
Zurich, with a handsome church loftily situated. On the right rises 
the long ridge of the Albis ; before us in the distance tower the Alps 
of Uri and Glarus. Then Zollikon, Goldbach, and (Y2 nr - from Zurich) 
Kusnacht (*Sonne), with a seminary for teachers. 

Erlenbach (Pension Seehof), beautifully situated. Between Herr- 
liberg and Thalweil is the deepest part of the lake (470'). Stations 
Feldmeilen and Meilen (Lowe; Sonne), a large village with an old 
church. 



40 I. Route 14. RAPPERS WIL. From Zurich 

The Pfannenstiel (OkenshShe, 2418'), to which a good path ascends from 
Meilen in 1 hr., affords a charming view of the lakes of Zurich and Greifen 
and of the Alps from Sentis to Pilatus (panorama by Keller). Monument to 
L. Oken (d. 1851), a famoua naturalist, and refreshment-pavilion at the top. 

Steamboat from Meilen to Horgen (p. 41) direct or via Feldmeilen 
8-10 times daily in 12-15 min. 

At Obermeilen (Hirsch) the first discovery of lake-dwellings was 
made in 1854. Stations Uetikon (Krone), Mdnnedorf (Wilder Mann), 
and Stafa (pop. 3845; (Sonne; Rossli; Restaur, zum Seethal, with 
garden), the largest village on the N. bank. — Steamboat toWadens- 
weil and Richtersweil see p. 41. 

The lake now attains its greatest breadth (2Y2M.). To theE., in 
the background, rises the Speer (p. 44); to the left of it the Sentis, 
beyond which tower the Toggenburg Mts. ; to the right, above the 
lake, the wooded Hohe Rhonen (4040'). Stations Kehlhof, Verikon, 
Schirmensee (Rossli). On the right are the small islands of Lutzelau 
and Ufnau, in front of the wooded Etzel. 

Ufnau, the property of the abbey of Einsiedeln, contains a farm-house, 
and a church and chapel consecrated in 1141. Ulrich von Hutten, the re- 
former, one of the boldest and most independent men of his time, sought 
refuge here when pursued by his enemies in 1523, and died a fortnight 
after his arrival, at the age of 36. His remains repose in the little church- 
yard, but the exact spot is unknown. 

Rapperswil (pop. 2789; *Swan, on the lake, R. i\'o-2, pens. 
6-7 fr.; *H6tel du Lac, R., L., & A. 3y 2 fr. ; Poste, at the station, 
with garden ; *Freihof), a picturesquely situated town, lies at the 
foot of the Lindenhof, a hill planted with limes (fine view), on which 
rises a black marble column with the Polish eagle, erected in memory 
of the beginning of the hundred years' struggle of the Poles for 
independence. The old Schloss, restored in 1871, contains the Pol- 
ish National Museum, founded by Count R. Plater (adm. 1 fr. ; 
splendid view from the tower). The Parish Church, re-erected since 
a fire in 1881, contains valuable sacred vessels. At the foot of the 
Lindenhof on the lake are public gardens, to which also a flight of 
steps leads down from the Schloss. 

In 1878 the old wooden bridge connecting Rapperswil with Hurden and 
Pfafflkon was replaced by the Seedamm, a viaduct 1024 yds. in length and 
12 yds. in width. Near the N. end are two iron bridges, each 47'/2 yds. long, 
and near the S. end a third, 95 yds. in length. There are also twenty other 
openings, each 10 yds. wide, and a swing-bridge 15'/ 2 yds. long, for the 
passage of vessels. The Railway (from Rapperswil to Pfafflkon, 3M., in 
10 min.), the high-road, and a footway protected by a railing, cross the 
lake by means of this embankment. A walk upon it is recommended for 
the sake of the view. About 20 yds. below it, near the S. bank, rises the 
Dreilandersiein, an obelisk 33' in height, marking the convergence of the 
boundaries of the cantons of Zurich, Schwyz, and St. Gallen, and bearing 
the arms of each. 

The upper part of the lake is grander and less thickly peopled 
than the lower. The mountains of Appenzell and Glarus form the 
background ; while in the extreme distance appear the Toggen- 
burg Mts. The steamer starts from the N.K. extremity of the See- 
damm and approaches the S. bank. To the right is the Etzel (p. 98). 
On the slope above the station of AltendorfXie the pilgrimage-chapel 



to Coire. WADENSWEIL. /. Baute 14. 41 

of St. Jbftann (1655'), and the Johannisburg Restaurant (pens., 4-5 ff. 
per day), with a fine view. In about 25 min. after leaving Rappers- 
wil, the steamer reaches the considerable village of Lachen (1350'; 
*Ochs, moderate) , and beyond the marshy promontory formed by 
the Waggithaler Aa, it touches at the little Bad Nuolen, at the W. 
base of the Vntere Buchberg (1975'). It now steers across the lake 
to Bollingen, on the N. bank, with large quarries, and to (1 hr. 10 min. 
from Rapperswil) Schmerikon (*Bossli; Seehof; Adler) , situated 
at the upper end of the lake, neaT the mouth of the Linth (p. 43). 

ii. Railway on the Left (S.) Bank from Zurich to Ziegelbriicke 
(and Glarus). 

The train describes a wide curve round the town , crossing the 
Sihl twice, passes under the Uetliberg line, and at (3 M.) Enge 
(p. 32) approaches the lake, which it skirts all the way to Lachen, 
affording beautiful views to the left. 31/2 M. Wollishofen, a pretty 
village ; 51/2 M. Bendlikon-Kilchberg, the latter situated on the hill 
above. Above(7M.).RuseMifeonis the rustic Nidelbad(i M. by road), 
with a chalybeate spring and pleasant walks. — 8 M. Thalweil 
[*Adler, near the church, moderate), a large village, charmingly 
situated. *View of the lake from the church, or better from the 
tower. — 974M. Oberrieden; IOV2M. Horgen (pop. 5519; Schwan; 
Lowe; Schiitzenhaus, a cafe' on the lake), with handsome houses 
chiefly belonging to silk-manufacturers, pleasantly situated amidst 
vineyards and orchards. 

Steamboat to Meilen (p. 39) 8-10 times daily in 12-15 min., to Kiiss- 
naeht 7-9 times daily in 40-60 min. — IV2 M. above Horgen is the Kur- 
haus Bocken (p. 73). " Zimmerberg (1 hr.) see p. 73. To Zug diligence daily 
in 2'/2 hrs., see p. 97. 

Near (13 M.) Au the peninsula of that name, with its orchards 
and meadows, projects far into the lake (Hot. -Pens. Au, 5 fr.). — ■ 
151/2 M. Wadensweil (1348'; pop. 6346; *Engel, facing the quay, 
R. 1 1/2-21/2, B. 1, pens. 5 ft.; H6t. du Lac) is the largest village 
on the lake. 

Railway to Mimiedeln see R. 29; diligence twice daily in l 3 /4 hr. via 
Schonenberg to Hiltten (p. 97). 

I71/2 M. Bichtersweil (pop. 3881; *Drei Konige, or Post; 
*Engel), another thriving village, prettily situated. 

Steamboat from Richtersweil via Wadensweil to Stiifa tp. 40) 12 
times daily in 30-45 min. ; to Mannedorf (p. 40) 10-12 times daily in 
27-50 min. 

The lake attains its greatest width here (see p. 40). Towards the 
E. rise the mountains of the Toggenburg and Appenzell. To the 
left , farther on , are the islands of Vfnau and Liitzelau (p. 40). 
21 M. Pfaffikon (Hot. Hofe) ; railway across the lake to Rapperswil, 
see p. 40; railway via Wollerau to Samstagern (Einsiedeln, etc.), 
see p. 97. At (25 M.) Lachen (see above) the train quits the lake, 
and near (27'/ 2 M.) Siebnen-Wangen it crosses the Waggithaler Aa. 

Wfiggithal. The road from Siebnen ( ! Rabe) follows first the left and 
then the right bank of the deep channel of the Aa to (4 M.) Vorder- 



42 J. Route 14. USTER. From Zurich 

Wdggithal (%SXf ; 'Rossli, plain), pleasantly situated in a green basin. 
It then leads through the defile of Stockerli, between the Grosse Auberg 
(5585') on the right and the Gugelberg (3780') on the left, to (1 M.) Hinler- 
Waggilhal, or Innerthal (3800' ; "Schafli, unpretending). Pleasant excursions 
to the Au (20 min.); E. to the Flaschenlochquelle (','« hr.); to the Aaberli- 
Alp (35i5'), 'A hr.; Huhflaschen-Alp (i?25'), l'A hr. — The Grosse Auberg 
(5585'), ascended by the Bdrlaui-Alp in 3 hrs., and the Fluhberg, or Diethelm 
(6873'), by the Flaschli-Alp in 4 hrs., are good points of view and present 
no difficulty (guide desirable). — From Innerthal to the Klbnthal a pleasant 
route (to Richisau 4 hrs. ; guide advisable). Skirting the Aabach, the path 
ascends, past the Aabern-Alp (3565'), to the (2 hrs.) Schweinalp Pass (5150'), 
and then descends by the Briisch-Alp and the Schwein-Alp to (2 hrs.) 
Richisau (p. 66). 

We now traverse a somewhat marshy plain to (31 M.) Reichen- 
burg. On the right rise the Glarus Mts., on the left the TJntere and 
Obere Buchberg (p. 43), and above them the Speer (p. 44). 34!/ 2 M. 
Bilten (Hirsch) ; in the 'Herrenstube' is a handsome apartment with 
artistic wood-carving of the 17th century. We cross the Linth Canal 
(p. 43) to the Rapperswil and Coire railway at (36 M.) Ziegelbritcke 
(p. 43). Thence to (43 M.) Glarus, see p. 59. 

iii. Railway from Zurich to Rapperswil, Weesen, and Sargans. 

From Zurich to (6 M.) Wallisellen, p. 46. The line traverses a 
flat district, near the right bank of the Olatt, which flows out of 
the neighbouring Oreifensee (1440'). Stations Dubendorf, Schwer- 
zenbach, and Nanikon. — 14 M. lister (1530'; Vsterhof; Stern; 
Kreuz), a large manufacturing village (7042 inhab.). On the right 
is the church with its pointed spire, and the loftily situated old 
castle with its massive tower, now the seat of the district court 
(Restaurant; fine view). In the vicinity are several large cotton- 
mills, driven by the Aa, a brook near the railway. .Beyond (16 M.) 
Aathal the Alps of Glarus and Schwyz form the S. background. 
From (18M.) Wetzikon (Sclrweizerhof) branoh-lines diverge to the 
N.W. to Pfaffikon and Effretikon (p.' 46), and to the S.E. (in 
10 min.) to Hinweil (Hirsch; Kreuz), at the N.W. base of the 
Bachtel (see below). Near (21 M.) Bubikon (Lowe, plain) the line 
attains its highest level (1800'). 22'/ 2 M. Ruti, with a former Prae- 
monstratensian abbey, is the junction of the Tossthal Line (p. 47). 

The Bachtel (3670'; "Inn), 2 hrs. to theN.E. of Riiti, commands a fine view 
to the N.W. over the district of Uster, sprinkled with factories, and the lakes 
of Greifen and Pfaffikon ; to the S. the Lake of Zurich from Wadensweil 
to the Linth Canal, the Linth Valley as far as the bridge of Mollis, and the 
Alps from the Sends to the Bernese Oberland. Consult Keller's Panorama, 
at the inn. From Wald (p. 47; in 'A hr. from Riiti by rail), and from 
Hinweil (see above; small carriage to the top 7fr.), good paths lead to 
the summit in l'/2 hr. 

Beyond a tunnel the train descends , chiefly through wood. 
Near Jona (Schliissel), a pretty village almost adjoining Rappers- 
wil, we descry the Alps of Schwyz to the S., and farther on, the 
Miirtschenstock, Schiiniser Berg, Speer, and Sentis on the left. 

27 M. Rapperswil, see p. 40. The station on the lake, near 
the steamboat-pier, is a terminus , from which the train backs out 



to Coire. WEESEN. /. Route 14. 43 

on its departure. (Branch-line to Pfafftkon, see p. 41.) Views 
to the right as far as Weesen. The line crosses the Jona, pass- 
es the nunnery of Wurmspach on the right , and returns to the 
bank of the lake near Bollingen (p. 41). 

34 M. Schmerikon, see p. 41. We now enter a broad valley 
traversed by the Linth (see below), which falls into the lake here. 
To the right, on the N.E. spur of the Vntere Buchberg (p. 41), 
stands the ancient Schloss Orynau, with a frowning square tower. '' 

36 M. TJtznach, a manufacturing village (1378'; *Ochs; Falke), 
lies on a hill to the left, surmounted by the church. (Diligence to 
Wattwyl 4 times daily in 2!/ 4 hrs., p. 58.) To the left, on the hill, 
the monastery of Sion (2317'). 36!/ 2 M. Kaltbrunn-Benken. The 
wooded range on the right is the Obere Buchberg (2020'). 

A carriage-road leads from the station of Kaltbrunn-Benken or TJtznach 
to (3 M.) Rieden (2360'; Inn & Kurhaus zum Russli. moderate), a health-resort, 
commanding charming views. Excursions may be made thence to the top 
of the Speer (p. 44), in 3V2 hrs. ; via Alp Breitenau to (2 hrs.) Ebnat-Kappel 
(p. 58); etc. 

Beyond (3972 M.) Schanis (1450'; *Hirsch; Lowe), another in- 
dustrial place, the ancient frontier of Rhaetia, we approach the Linth 
Canal, constructed in 1807-22 by Konrad Escher of Zurich, con- 
necting the Lake of Zurich with the Walensee, and, in conjunction 
with the Escher Canal, draining a once dismal and swampy region. 
The canal runs parallel with the railway at the foot of the Schaniser 
Berg (5470') ; to the right a striking view of the Valley of Glarus 
with its snow-mountains. 

On the opposite bank of the Linth Canal is the Linth- 
Colonie, originally a colony of poor people, now an agricultural 
institution. 42'/2 M. Ziegelbrucke (Hotel Berger) is the junction 
of the Glarus line, which soon diverges to the right (p. 59). The 
Weesen line passes through a cutting and rounds the Biberlikopf 
(see below), the extreme spur of the Schaniser Berg. To the right 
tower the Wiggis and the Glarnisch (pp. 59, 66). 

4572 M. Weesen. — Hotels. "Hotel Speer, at the station, '/sM. 
from the lake, R., L., & A. 2'/4, B. I1/4, S. 2V4, pens. 6-6 fr. ; * Hotel Maria- 
halden , with, fine view ; "Schwert, prettily situated on the lake, it. 2, 
pens. 6 fr. ; *Rossli, pens. 4-4 , /2 fr. Various less pretending inns in the 
'/Vy', the quarter of the village extending along the lake, with numerous 
gardens. — Rail. Restaurant. — English Church Service in summer. 

Weesen (1410'), a favourite summer-resort, lies in a sheltered 
situation at the W. end of the Walensee. The Klosterberg yields 
good wine. 

Excursions. Shady paths ascend from the Fly to the (20 Min.) Kapfen- 
berg, which affords a charming survey. — Pleasant walk (from the station 
3 /i hr., or from stat. Ziegelbrucke 20 min.) to the top of the Biberlikopf 
(1895') ; fine view of the Walensee and of the Linththal up to Netstall and 
down to the Buchberg. — A very attractive excursion may be made by 
boat across the lake to p/4 hr.) the hamlet of Betlis, prettily situated beside 
the ruin of Strahlegg at the foot of the Leistkamm. Fine view of Jliihle- 
horn, the Murtschenstock, etc. From Betlis, we may walk to the ruined 
Serenmiihle and the Falls of the Serenbach (see below), or we may ascend 
to (i hr.) Amden. 



44 J. Bowie U. WALENSEE. From Zurich 

A new road with fine views of the lake, but destitute of shade, ascends 
from Weesen to (IV4 hr.) Amden or Amnion (2875' ; flirsch), loftily situated 
on sunny pastures. Most beautiful view at a small ruined chapel to the 
right of the road, 3 /4 hr. from Weesen. — From Amden to the top of the 
Leistkamm (6890 1 ), 3V2hrs., with guide (Thoma of Amden), interesting and 
not difficult. — From Amden to Slarkcnbach or Stein in the Toggenburg 
(p. 58) over the Amdener Berg (5055'), a route of 5 hrs., with beautiful 
views, but fatiguing on account of the stone pavement. 

The "Speer (6417'), an admirable point of view, 472-5 hrs. (guide unne- 
cessary for experts). At the church we turn to the left, and ascend for 
the first V2 hr. over rough pavement of conglomerate (pleasant retrospects 
of the lake). Then a steep ascent through woods and meadows; 2 hrs. 
Untere Butz-Alp (3563'); 3 /i hr. Unter-Kasern Alp (4337'); 1 hr. Ober-Kasern 
Alp (5404 1 ; "Inn Zum Hohen Speer). Thence to the top a steep ascent of 
3 /i hr. more. Beautiful view, especially of E. and K.E. Switzerland. From 
Ebnal or Nesslau (p. 58) the Speer is easily ascended in 3'/2-4 hrs. 

The *Walensee, or Lake of Walenstadt (1395'), 9!/ 4 M. long, 
1^4 M. wide, and 495' deep, is hardly inferior to the Lake of 
Lucerne in mountainous grandeur. The N. bank consists of 
almost perpendicular precipices, 2000' to 3000' high, ahove which 
rise the barren peaks of the seven Curftrsten [Leistkamm 6890', 
Selun 7240', Friimsel 7434', Brisi 7477', Zustoll 7336', Scheiben- 
stoll 7556', and Hinterruck 7523'). The hamlet of Quinten alone has 
found a site on the N. bank. On the S. bank also the rocks, pierced 
by nine tunnels, are very precipitous at places. At the mouths of the 
small torrents which descend from the Miirtschenstock (8012'), lie 
several villages. The names of the hamlets, Primsch, Gunz, Terzen, 
Quarten, Quinten, and that of the lake itself, indicate that the in- 
habitants are of Rhsetian or Latin, and not Germanic origin. 

Beyond Weesen we cross the Linth Canal (to the right the 
Glarus line, see R. 19), and farther on the Escher Canal (p. 59) 
near its influx into the Walensee, and pass through two tunnels 
with apertures in the side next the lake. Beyond them we observe 
the Bayerbach waterfall on the opposite bank, and the village of 
Amden on the hill above ; then the falls of the Serenbach, which 
sometimes disappear in summer. Three more tunnels, between which 
we obtain pleasant glimpes of the lake and the waterfalls and pre- 
cipices opposite. 50 M. Muhlehorn [Zur Miihle, Tellsplatte, both un- 
pretending). To the right rises the bald Miirtschenstock (p. 45). 

Fbom Mdhlehorn to Mollis (8V2 M.), an interesting walk. Tne road 
leads over the Kerenzenberg by the favourite summer-resorts (2'/2 M.) 
Obstalden (2237'; 'flinch, with shady garden, pens. 5Vs-6Vs fr. ; "Stern) and 
(IV4 M.) Filzbach (2336'; "Rossli), a village near the highest part of the route, 
whence the Miirticlienslock (see p. 45) may be ascended via, the Meerenalp 
in 6 hrs., with guide. (By the flatlcnalp to Glarus, see p. til.) From a 
rock on the right (good path in 10 min.), about 3/ 4 31. farther on, we enjoy 
an admirable "View of the Walensee, the Seezthal Jits., the valley of the 
Linth Canal, bounded on the left by the Hirzli (5387'), and the valleys of 
Glarus with the Wiggis and Glarnisch. Much of our route now passes 
through wood. Near (3 M.) Beglingen we get a glimpse of the snow-fields 
of the Todi, and then descend in windings (avoided by short-cuts) to (1 M.) 
Mollis (p. 59). — A fine new road (recommended to pedestrians) leads from 
Muhlehorn via, ( 3 / 4 M.) Tiefenwinkel (brewery) and (n/2 M.) Murg to (2 M.) 
Ohterterzen and (3'/2 M.) Walenstadt. 

Two more tunnels (to the left, Quinten, see above). 



to Coire. MURG. I. Route 14. 45 

51 M. Murg (*Schiffli, *Rossli, pens, at both 4 fr. ; Kreuz , all 
rustic), charmingly situated at the narrow mouth of the Murgthal, 
with factories and spinning-mills. 

A visit to the 'Murgthal, a valley 10 M. long, is recommended (guide 
unnecessary). The path ascends rapidly, past the Rossli, as far as (20 min.) 
a "'Waterfall below a bridge, which we do not cross (or we may cross 
the bridge and return to Murg by the pleasant path on the other side). In 
20 min. more we reach another bridge, and cross it. After a steep ascent 
of 3 A hr. on the left bank the path returns to the Murg and crosses it by 
a third bridge at the O/2 hr.) beginning of the Merlenalp (3640'). It then 
ascends a pleasant valley, through meadows and wood, to the (2>/2 hrs.) 
three Murgseen (5490', 5955', and 5980'). From the highest lake the "Roth- 
thor (8250') may be ascended in 2 hrs. (guide desirable ; the fisherman 
or a herdsman); striking view (W. the Glarnisch, S.W. the Todi, S.E. the 
Calanda, E. the Scesaplana, N. the Sentis and Curfirsten, N.W. the hill- 
country of Zurich). — From the highest lake a rough path crosses the 
Widerstein-Furkel (66070 to the Miihlebachthal and (2V2 hrs.) Bngiin the 
Sernfthal (p. 67) ; another (guide required) leads over the Murgsee-Furkel 
(6570') to the Murtschenalp (6060'), past the Murtschenstock and Fronalp- 
stock, to the Heuboden-Alp (p. 60) and (5 hrs.) Olarus. — Ascent of the 
Murtschenstock (8012') from the Murtschenalp in 2 hrs., laborious, fit for 
experts only, with guide ; magnificent view. 

Beyond Murg another tunnel ; above, to the right, the village of 
Quarten (1760') with a new church (*Kurhaus Quarten, with hydro- 
pathic, prettily situated about 1 M. from TJnterterzen; pens, from 
4fr.). 53'/2 M. TJnterterzen (Freieck; Zur Blumenau). On the 
steep rocks of the opposite bank several waterfalls are visible ; to 
the right , the village of Mols. Then a tunnel and a bridge across 
the Seez Canal. 

56 M. Walenstadt (1395'; *E6tel Churfirsten , at the station, 
R. & A. 2'/ 2 fr. ; *Hirsch, in the village, moderate) lies '^M. from 
the E. end of the lake (*H6t.-Pens. Seehof, on the lake). 

Exclusion (with guide) from Walenstadt by a steep path through 
wood to the (2 hrs.) Alp Losis; then, nearly level, to the Alp Bills and ( 3 /4 hr.) 
the Tschingeln-Alp (5040' ; milk) ; follow the slopes of the Curfirsten, with 
a series of beautiful views, to the (l'/4 hr.) Alp Schwaldis (4775') and return 
by Alp Schrinen (4205') to (I1/2 hr.) Walenstadt ; or proceed from Alp Schwal- 
dis to the Sals-Alp (46C0'), descend by the Stdfeli to the (1 hr.) Laubegg 
Alp (4505') and thence by a steep path, but free from danger, to (IV2 hr.) 
Quinten (p. 44), whence the lake is crossed by boat to Murg. — To Amden 
via, the leistkamm, 10 hrs. with guide, very attractive (comp. p. 44). — To 
Wildhaus in the Toggenburg (p. 59) a rough path, with splendid views, 
crosses the Kdserruck (7435' ; 6 hrs. ; guide necessary). 

We now ascend the broad valley of the Seez. On a rock to the 
right, the ruins of Ordplang (Romanic Crap Long~), or Langenstein ; 
to the left, on a rocky height above Barschis, the pilgrimage-church 
of St. Georgen. 58 M. Flums (1475' ; Hotel Bahnhof; Lowe). Near 
(64 M.) Mels (1637'; Melserhof, at the station; Frohsinn) the Seez 
descends from the Weisstannen-Thal, a valley to the S.W. 

The "Alvier (7753'), an admirable point of view, may be ascended 
hence in 5 hrs. (guide unnecessary for adepts). The path ascends steeply from 
the station to the right to the (3 hrs.) Alp Palfries (4850'; Kurhaus, plain), 
traverses steep and rocky slopes, and (2'/2 hrs.) reaches the summit through 
a narrow cleft by steps cut in the rock (Club-hut, dilapidated). The 
magnificent view embraces the Rhine Valley, the Rhsetikon, and tho 



46 I. Route 15. WINTERTHUR. 

Vorarlberg, Appenzell, and Glarus Mts. (good panorama by Simon). Good 
paths ascend from Flums, Sevelen, Buchs, and Triibbach (comp. p. 342). 
Fbom Mels to Vattis, through the Weisstannen-Thal and Kalf enter Thai 
(10-11 hrs.). Road to (8 51.) Weisstannen (3270'; Alpenhof; Oamsli). Thence 
(with guide), by Unter-Lavtina (4325') and the Alp Valtusch (594C), in 
4 hrs. to the Heidel-Pass (7305'), between the Seezberg and the Beidelspitt 
(7980'), where we have a fine view of the huge Sardona Glacier, the 
Trinserhorn, and Eingelspitz. Descent into the Kalfeuser Thai, to the 
Tamina bridge near St. Martin (4430') 2 hrs., and to Vattis (p. 346) 2 hrs. 
more. — From Weisstannen to Elm by the Foo or Eamin Pass, see p. 68. 

At (65 M.) Sargans (1590'; *H6tel Thoma, at the station; 
Rail. Restaurant ; Krone , Lowe , in the town) we reach the Rhine 
Valley and the Rorschach and Coire line. The little town, 3/ 4 M. 
to the N.W., rebuilt since a fire in 1811, lies picturesquely at the 
foot of the Gonzen (p. 342), and is commanded by an old castle 
(still habitable) of the former Counts of Toggenburg. 

Railway from Sargans via, Ragatz to (79 M.) Coire, see R. 88. 

15. From Zurich to Romanshorn and Friedrichshafen 

(Lindau) . 

Comp. Maps, pp. 38, 26, 28. 

Railway to Romanshorn (51 M.) in 3 hrs. (8 fr. 65, 6 fr. 5, 4 fr. 35 c). 
Steamboat thence to Friedrichshafen in 1 hr. (1 Jl. 20 or 80 pf.) ; to Lin- 
dau in li/a br. (2 Jl. 25 or ljf. 50 pf. ; see p. 27). 

The train crosses the Sihl, ascends in a wide curve, crosses 
the Limmat, and passes under the Kaferberg by a tunnel 1020 yds. 
long. 3 M. Oerlikon (1443' ; Sonne ; Rail. Restaurant). 

From Oeelikon to Dielsdoef, 12 M., railway in 35 minutes. Stations 
Glattbrugg, Riimlang, and (8 l /2 M.) Oberglatt, the junction for Mederglatt 
and (41/2 M.) Biilach (p. 47). Then (10y 2 M.) Niederhasli and (12 M.) Diels- 
dorf (1410'; Sonne; Post), the terminus of the line, l'/j M. below the pret- 
tily situated old town of Regensberg (2024'; -Krone), on the E. spur of the 
Lagerngebirge (p. 19). Fine view from the tower of the old castle (now 
an institution for boys of weak intellect); still more extensive from the 
Hochwachl (2&30'), 1 hr. farther on. 

The line crosses the Glatt. At (6 M.) Wallisellen (Linde) the 
Rapperswil line diverges to the right (see p. 42). Fine view of 
the Glarus Alps. 7y 2 M. Dietlikon; lO 1 /^ M. Effretikon (branch- 
line to Wetzikon and Hinweil , p. 42); 13 M. Kemptthal. Near 
Winterthur the Toss is crossed. On a hill to the left, the ruins of 
Hoch- Wulflingen (1962'). 

16 M. Winterthur (1447'; pop. 15,985; *Goldner Lowe, R.&A. 
272! D. 3Y2 fr-; *Krone ; *Adler; *Rail. Restaurant), on the Eulach, 
is an industrial and wealthy town and an important railway-junction. 
The handsome Stadthaus was designed by Semper. The large School 
(with statues of Zwingli, Gessner, Pestalozzi, and Sulzer) contains 
the town-library and a few small Roman antiquities found near 
Ober-Winterthur (p. 31). In the Kunsthalle are some good Swiss 
paintings. The Panorama of the Rigi near the Polytechnicum is 
worth seeing. 

Fbom Wintebthcb to Waldshut, 32 M., railway in 2 hrs. The 
line traverses the Tbssthal. Stat. Toss, Wulflingen, Pfungen-Iteflenbuch, 



FBAUENFELD. I. Route 15. 47 

Entbrach-Rorbas. The train leaves the Toss and passes through a 
tunnel (1980 yds.). 10y 2 M. Biilach (1374' ; Kopf; Kreuz), a small town 
near the Glatt, once fortified (branch-line to Oberglatl and Otelfingen, 
p. 20). The line runs through the Hardwald to the N. to Glattfelden and 
(13'/2 M.) Eglisau; the latter (Lowe; Hirsch) with its castle lies on the 
right bank of the Rhine. We now follow the left bank of the Rhine and 
cross the Glatt. Stat. Zweidlen; 19 M. Weiach-Kaiserstuhl , an old town 
with a massive tower ; on the right bank Schloss Rbteln, and farther on, 
the ruins of Weiss- Wasserstelz. Stat. Riimikon, Reckingen, Zurzach, and 
(30 M.) Koblenz, where the Rhine is crossed to (32 Jl.) Waldshut (p. 23). 

From Winterthur to Ruti, 29'/2M., in 2-3 hrs., by the Tossthalbahn. 
Stations Griize and Seen. Near (5 M.) Sennhof (25 min. to the S.W. of which 
is the old chateau of Kyburg, commanding a fine view) we enter the pretty 
Tossthal. Stations Kollbrunn, Rikon, Zell, (10 M.) Turbenthal (Bar), Wyla 
(with a picturesquely situated church), Saland, (16 M.) Baurna (Tanne), 
all thriving industrial places. About 2'A M. to the E. of Zell, on the slope 
of the Schauenberg. is the frequented Gyrenbad, with an alcaline spring (see 
p. 48). Then Steg, Fischenthal, Gibswyl-Ried. From the last, situated on 
the watershed, the Bachtel may be ascended in 1 hr. Then through the 
picturesque valley of the Jona to (25 M.) Wald (Lowe; Rossli), attheS.E. 
foot of the Bachtel (p. 42). Passing the waterfall of Sohe Lauf, we join 
the Zurich and Rapperswil line at (29V2 M.) Rilti (p. 42). 

From Winterthur to Schaffhausen, see R. 12; to <S(. Gallen and Ror- 
ichach, see R. 16 ; to Constance, see R. 11. 

The Romanshorn line traverses the green and fertile Thurgau. 
20 M. Wiesendangen ; 24 M. Islikon. 

26 M. Frauenfeld (1340'; pop. 6087; *Falke; *H6tel Bahn- 
hof) , on the Murg , with large cotton-factories, is the capital of 
the Thurgau. The handsome Schloss on an ivy-clad rock is said to 
have been built by a Count of Kyburg in the 11th century. 

From Frabenfeld to Wyl, 11 M., steam-tramway in I-IV4 hr. (fares 
1 fr. 80, 1 fr. 30 c ). Stations : Hurkart, Mazingen, Jakobsthal, Wdngi, Rosen- 
thal, Miinchweilen, and Wyl (p. 48). 

29 M. Felben. Near (32y 2 M. ) Mullheim the train crosses the 
Thur. 35 M. Marstetten ; 37i/ 2 M. Weinfelden (1463')- To the left 
Schloss Weinfelden (1850'; view), on the vine -clad Ottenberg. 
3972 M. Burglen; 41 M. Sulgen (1584'; Helvetia; Schweizerhof). 

From Sdlgen to Gossad, 14'/2 M., railway in 67 min. (1 fr. 65, lfr. 
15 c). The line traverses the pretty valley of the Thur. Stations Kra- 
dolf, Sitterthal. 6 M. Bischofzell (1653'; Linde; Schwert), a small town at 
the confluence of the Thur and Sitter; then Hauptweil, Arnegg, Gossan 
(see- p. 48). 

Stations Erlen (Hot. Bahnhof), Amrisweil, and (51 M.) Romans- 
horn (1322'; *H6tel Bodan, R., L., &A. 3, B. iy 4 fr.; Falke; Jager ; 
*Rail. Restaurant), on a promontory on the Lake of Constance. 
Thence to Friedrichshafen, or Lindau, see p. 28. 

16. From Ziirich to St. Gallen, Rorschach, and 
Lindau. 

Cornp. Maps, pp. 38, 52, 28. 

Railway to St. Gallen (521/2M.) in 3 hrs. (8 fr. 80, 6 fr. 20, 4 fr. 40 c); 
to Rorschach (62 M.) in 33/4 hrs (10 fr. 35, 7 fr. 45, 5 fr. 30 c). Steamboat 
from Rorschach to Lindau in IV4 hr. (1 Jl. 65 or 1 Jl . 10 pf .). 

From Zurich to (16 M.) Winterthur, see p. 46. The St. Gallen 



48 /. Route 16. ST. GALLEN. From Zurich 

railway is unattractive. The Curflrsten gradually appear to the S., 
and the Appenzell Mts. to the S.E. — 20»/2 M. Raterschen ; 24 M. 
Elgg (2012' ; Ochs ; Lowe). To the S. (4 M.) is the Schauenberg 
(2930' ; fine view), on the S. W. slope of which lies the Qyrenbad 
Cp. 47). Stations Aadorf (Linde), Eschlikon, Sirnach. — 34'/2 M. 
Wyl (1936'; *E6tel Bahnhof), a pleasant old town (3507 inhah.). 
Branch-line to Ebnat, see p. 58 ; steam-tramway to Frauenfeld, p. 47. 

The train crosses the Thur by an iron bridge, near the old 
castle of Schwarzenbach. 3972 M. Utzwyl, the station for Nieder- 
Vtzwyl on the left, and Ober - Utzwyl on the right. (Near the 
former, i s /i M. from the station, is the Hydropathic of Buchen- 
thal.) 43 M. Flawyl (2020'; *R'6ssli; Post), a large manufacturing 
village. The Olatt is crossed. 46 M. Oossau (H6t. Bahnhof ; branch- 
line to Sulgen, see p. 47). — 48y 2 M. Winkeln (Kreuz). 

From Winkeln to Appenzell, 16 M., in l'/z hr., by the narrow-gauge 
Appenzell Railway. The line passes the Heinrichsbad (*Kurhaus, with chaly- 
beate spring, whey-cure, etc.). 3 SI. Herisau (2550'; 12,937 inhab. ; *L6we, 
R. 2V2, D. 3, pens. 7-8 fr. ; Storch), a thriving town with extensive muslin- 
factories and a clock-tower attributed to the 7th century. 5'/2M. Waldstatl 
(2700'; Hirsch ; Pens. Sentisblick), with a chalybeate spring and whey-cure. 
Then through the Urnasch Valley, by Ziirchersmiihle, to (9'/4 M.) Urnasch 
(2746'; "Krone; Schafle). About V2 M. above Urnasch is the primitive spa 
of Rosenhiigel (2892'J. Beyond Urnasch the train passes the (ll'/a M.) 
Jacobsbad (to the E.), with its mineral spring (good quarters) and goes on 
via (13 M.) Gonten (2970'; Bar) and (14 M.) Gontenbad (2925'), a well-managed 
whey-cure establishment, with a chalybeate spring, to (16 M.) Appenzell 
(p. 54). — Ascent of the Sentis from Urnasch, see p. 57. Over the Krazern 
Pass to Neu St. Jdhann, see p. 58. 

We now cross the deep valley of the Sitter by an imposing iron 
bridge, 207yds. long, and 174' above the river. A little lower 
down is the Krazernbrucke , with its two stone arches, built in 
1810. — 50 M. Bruggen. 

52V2 M. St. Gallen. —Hotels. *Hecht, E., L., & A. 2'/2-4, D., incl. 
wine, 3'/2fr.; 'Linde, with Cafe'-Eestaurant; Hot. Stiegek, E., L., & A. 
3 fr. ; "Hibsch , R. & A. 2'/2, D- 3 fr. ; 'Walhalla , opposite the station ; 
"Schiff, Ocbs , moderate. — Cafes. Borse, Pavilion, Trischli, all three 
with gardens; Gafi National; Walhalla, see above. — Baths of all kinds 
at the Lochlibad and at the 'Paradies\ — Cabs: 1/4 hr., 1-2 persons 80 c, 
3-4 pers. 1 fr. 20, 1/2 br. 1 fr. 20 and 1 fr. 80, »/ 4 hr. 1 fr. 60 and 2.fr. 40, 
X hr. 2 fr. and 3 fr., luggage 20 c. ; double fares at right. — Embroidery at 
A. Naefs. 

St. Gallen (2165'), one of the highest-lying of the larger towns 
of Europe, the capital of the canton of that name, and an episcopal 
see (since 1846), is one of the chief industrial towns in Switzerland, 
embroidered cotton goods being its staple product. Pop. 27,842. 

The Bbnediotine Abbby, founded in the 7th cent, by St. Gal- 
lus, an Irish monk, rebuilt in the 18th cent., and suppressed in 1805, 
was one of the most famous seats of learning in Europe from the 
8th to the 10th century. The extensive buildings now accom- 
modate the Cantonal offices , the bishop's residence, and the cel- 
ebrated Abbey Library. The last (open on Mon., Wed., and Sat., 9-12 
and 2-4) contains many valuable MSS. (a psalter of Notker Laheo 



to Lindau. ST. GALLEN. /. Route 16. 49 

of the 10th cent, and a Nibelungenlied of the 13th cent.); of those 
mentioned in a catalogue of the year 823 about 400 still exist. 

The Abbey Church, rebuilt in 1755-65 in the rococo style, contains 
finely carved choir-stalls and a beautiful iron choir-screen. The 
Gothic Church of St. .Lawrence (Prot.), to the N. of the abbey-church, 
was rebuilt in 1849-51 and embellished with a handsome tower, 
and contains stained glass by Gsell of Paris. 

The large Cantonal School House in the Vordere Briihl contains 
the Town Library ['Bibliotheca Vadiana ; open Tues., Thurs., and 
Sat., 2-4), which boasts of valuable MSS., chiefly of the Reforma- 
tion period, and the collections of the Oeopraphical fy Commercial 
Society (open Sun. 11-12, 1-3; Tues. and Sat. 1-3). Near it, in the 
Museums- Str., by the Grosse Briihl, is the Museum, containing the 
municipal collections. On the ground-floor are the Natural History 
Collections (open Sun., 10-12 and 1-3, Wed. andFrid., 1-3), and 
on the first floor the Picture Oallery of the Kunstverein (open Sun. 
10-12, 1-3, Wed. 1-4; works by Roller, Diday, Makart, A. Feuer- 
bach, Ritz, Schirmer, and others), and the collections of the Histor- 
ical Society (open Sun., 10-12 and Wed., 1-4). Behind the museum 
is the Public Park; farther on, in the Rorschacher-Strasse, are the 
Town Hospital, to the right, and the Cantonal Hospital, to the left. 
To the W., in the Arboner-Strasse, on the left bank of the Steinach, 
is the large Cantonal Prison. The Industrial Museum, with a school 
of design, is in the Vadian-Strasse (open Sun. 10-12; on other 
days, except Mon., 9-12 and 1-5). 

Excubsions. The Treudenberg (2805'; Inn; carriage for 1-2 pers. 
7 fr., 3-4 pera. 12 fr.), f/2 M. to the S.E., commands a charming view of 
the Lake of Constance as far as Lindau; in the foreground lie St. Gallen 
and the surrounding country, dotted with houses, to the S. the Sentis 
chain, the Glarnisch, Todi, etc. — The " Vffgelisegg (41/a M. ; p. 53) and the 
"Frdlichsegg (4 M. ; p. 57) also afford fine views. — From the Kurzegg 
inn on the road to Vogelisegg a fine view of the Bodensee. Near it, the nun- 
nery of Notkersegg (2567'). — To the Rosenberg (2445' carriage 2 fr., 3 fr.) 
with the Kurzeriburg, a deaf-and-dumb institution (view to the S.W.) ; walk 
along the hill to the (»/ 4 hr.) inn of SS. Peter and Paul (2628' ; view). — 
Across the pastures to the Bernegg (2757'; Inn), with view of the Sentis, 
and back by the Teufen road (2 M.). — Kronbuhl (2033'; Inn; carriage 
3 fr., 5 fr.), on the Arbon road, with a view of the Lake of Constance. — 
Waid, a health-resort, 3 M. to the N.E., with splendid view of the lake of 
Constance (carriage 4 fr., 6 fr. ; diligence from St. Fiden, see below). — 
Bruggen and the "Sitterbriicke (p. 48), by rail in 8 min. — Martinstotel and 
MSUelischlosi, see p. 50. — To Trogen, Gals, Appenzell, Weissbad (R. 
17), one-horse carr. there and back 13 fr., a pleasant day's excursion. 

From St. Gallen the line descends through a long cutting to 
(53t/2 M.) St. Fiden (H. National), and enters the wild valley of the 
Steinach. Embankments and cuttings are traversed in rapid suc- 
cession. Nearly the whole Lake of Constance is frequently visible, 
with Friedrichshafen on its N. bank. — Turning to the right, the 
line crosses the Ooldach by a bridge of five arches near (56*/2 M.) 
Morschwyl (*Pens. Gallusberg, near the station), and traverses a 
fertile district to Rorschach. There are two stations at Rorschach, 
the chief station at the harbour, the second Y2 M. to the E. 

Baedekub, Switzerland. 15th Edition. 4 



50 J. Route 16. RORSCHACH. From Zurich 

62M. Rorschach. — *Seehof, with garden ; 'Anker, R.,L.,& A. 2V2-3, 
B. 1 fr., pens. 7-8 fr. ; "Hiesch, moderate ; Badhof ; "Hotel Bodan ; Schiff ; 
Hotel Bahnhof, Post, R.2,D.2'/2f*i these two near the station; "Schafle, 
with garden , moderate ; Eossle ; Zub Ilge ; Groneb Baum ; Ochs, with 
brewery. — "Rail. Restaurant, with a balcony and view of the lake. Beer 
at Stierlin's, behind the station, and at the Falke (with rooms to let). — 
Private apartments reasonable. — Baths at Notter^s, on the lake; 'Lake 
Baths y t M. to the W. (bath with towel 35 c). 

Rorschach (1312'; pop. 5867), a busy town on the Lake of Con- 
stance, chiefly important for its corn trade, is also a summer-resort. 

Railway to Coire, see p. 341 ; to Bregenz and Lindau, see p. 424 ; to 
Heiden, see p. 64; to Constance, see p. 30. 

Excursions. Above Rorschach rises the old abbey of Harienberg, with 
handsome cloisters, now a school. The view from the Rorschacher Berg, 
the green orchard-like hill behind the town, embraces the whole lake, 
with the Vorarlberg Mts. and the Rhsetikon chain. Its summit, the Rosb- 
biihel (Inn), may be reached in l l /4 hr. from Rorschach (boy to show the way 
desirable). The whole hillside is intersected by roads, which afford a great 
many pleasant walks. — The St. Anna Schloss, since 1449 the property of 
the Abbots of St. Gallen, has been partly restored ('Restaurant); fine view 
from the upper rooms. The road, which is steep towards the end, takes 
about */t hr. from the station. The view from the Jagerhaus, ',z hr. 
farther up, is still more extensive (Inn, good wine). 

To the Martinstobel and Mbttelischloss and back, 3 hours. By the St. 
Gallen railway to St. Fiden, see above. Below the station we take the road 
to Neudorf (brewery on the left), descend the high-road, and diverge to the 
right by the Heiden road into the Martinstobel, the gorge of the Goldach, 
spanned by an iron bridge lOt/ high. Here at the beginning of the 10th cent, 
the monk Notker composed his 'Media vita in morte sumus\ upon seeing 
a man accidentally killed. Beyond the bridge we ascend the road to the 
left, passing the debris of a landslip which took place in 1845, to Untereggen 
(Schafie) , and thence descend the Goldach road as far as a road leading 
through a grassy dale to the right to the Mbttelischloss. This was for- 
merly the seat of the Barons of Sulzberg, of whom it was purchased by 
the wealthy Mbtteli family of St. Gallen, and after various vicissitudes it has 
now fallen into disrepair. -View from the new platform on the top (gratuity), 
one of the finest near the lake. Pleasant walk back to Rorschach through 
the Witholz (!/j hr.). — ToTiibach, surrounded by fruit-trees, and the 
Castle of Steinach about 1 hr. — By the 'Obere Weg', with fine views, 
to (1 hr.) Wylen ("Inn) , near the Duke of Parma's chateau of Wartegg, 
with its beautiful park. — By Staad (p. 341) to (l'/< hr.) Schloss Weinburg, 
the summer-residence of the Prince of Hohenzollern (visitors admitted to 
the fine park); splendid view from the Sleinerne Tisch, above the chateau 
(return via Thai and Rheinegg, p. 341). — To Heiden, see p. 52. 

To the Meldegg. Railway to ('/< hr.) Rheinegg; then a good road 
(diligence twice daily in 1 hr. 5min.; (cable railway projected) to (2'/s M.) 
Walzenhausen (2207 1 ; "Kurhavs; "H6t.-Pens. Rheinburg, 6-9 fr.), a summer 
resort in a sheltered situation, with pleasant wood-walks and fine points 
of view. Road thence to (I1/2 M.) the monastery of Qrimmenstein ; then a 
path to the left to the ('/« hr.) -Meldegg (2125'), a rocky height at the angle 
of the Rhine Valley, affording an admirable survey of the valley and the 
Bodensee. (Tavern in summer.) We may then descend to (>/« hr.) St. Mar- 
grethen (p. 341) or 0/2 hr.) Au (p. 341) and return by train to Rorschach. 

At Horn (on the lake, l'/z M. to the N.W.; railway, sue p. 30) there are 
a large Hotel & Bath-house (pension 6 fr.), and the Steinbock Inn. Visitors 
are also received at the Schloss, near the baths, to the left of the road. 

To Lindau by steamer (I1/4 hr. ; D. 2*/ 2 Jl., mediocre), comp. 
p. 27. To the S.E. is Bregenz. at the foot of the Pfiinder; in the 
background the Rhsetikon chain; to the S. rise the Appenzell Mts. 
and the Sentis 



to Lindau. LINDAU. /. Route 16. 51 

Lindau. — "Bayrischer Hof, R., L., St A. 2V2-4, D. 3Jt.; -Krone, 
R. IV2-2V2 M.-, B. 80 pf., D. IfrliM.; "Hotel Reutemann, *Lindauer Hof, 
Helvetia, moderate, all on the lake; Sonne, in the Reichsplatz ; Gaktchen 
atjf deb Mauer, a pension on the mainland. — Restaurants : Seegarien, near 
the Bayrische Hof (also R.); Schiitzengarten, a restaurant on the old bas- 
tion, near the Roman tower, with view; adjacent to it, Rupflin (wine); 
Rail. Restaurant. — Lake Baths on the N.W. side of the town, in the inner 
arm of the lake. 

Lindau, (5400 inhab.), the terminus of the Bavarian S.W. Rail- 
way (express to Augsburg 5, to Munich b l / 2 hrs.), once an imperial 
town and fortress, and in the middle ages a thriving commercial 
place, lies on an island in the Lake of Constance, connected with 
the mainland by a railway-embankment and by a wooden bridge, 
356 yds. long. Lindau is said to have been the site of an ancient 
Roman fort, to which the venerable tower near the bridge perhaps 
belonged. On the quay is a monument to King Max II. (d. 1864), 
in bronze, designed by Halbig. At the end of the S. pier, on a 
gTanite pedestal 33' high, is placed an imposing lion in marble, 20' 
in height, also by Halbig ; opposite, on the N. pier, is a Lighthouse. 
The harbour is adjoined to the S. by the Alte Schanz, which com- 
mands a view of the Alps from the Scesaplana to the Sentis (moun- 
tain indicator). In the Reichsplatz are the Bathhaus , erected in 
1422-36 and restored in 1885-87, with painted facades and an 
interesting collection of antiquities (open 11-12, Sun. 2-5), and 
the handsome Reichsbrunnen with a bronze figure of 'Lindauia', and 
other allegorical figures, erected in 1884. 

Exccksions. Pleasant walk on the bank of the lake towards the W. 
(cross the railway embankment and turn to the left), passing the villas of 
Naher, Lotzbeck (pretty park), Giebelbacli, Lingg ("Frescoes by Naue), and 
others, to the ( 3 /4 M.) Schachenbad (Pens. Freihof), and the (3/4 M.) Linden- 
hof (or Villa Gruber), with its beautiful grounds and hot-houses (adm. on 
Frid. gratis; at other times iUl., tickets at the Schachenbad; closed on 
Sun.). About l fr M. farther on is the chateau of Alwind. — Beautiful view 
from the Q/2 hr.) "Hoyerberg (1496'), which is reached by a path skirting 
the railway, or by the road by Aeschach (Schlatter) to the village of Hoyren, 
at the foot of the vine-clad hill. Two inns and a belvedere on the top. 
We may then return by Enzisweiler (*Schmid's Restaurant) and Schachen, 
(Zum Schlossle). — To Bregenz, see p. 424. 

17. The Canton of Appenzell. 

The Canton of Appenzell cannot vie in grandeur with many other parts 
of Switzerland , but it includes within a small space most of the charact- 
eristics of the country. It boasts of Switzerland's largest lake, of an almost 
southern vegetation, of great industrial prosperity, of the richest pastures, 
and even of lofty snow-mountains. The finest points are Heiden, St. Antoni, 
Wildkirchli, Ebenalp, the Hohe Kasten, and the Sentis. 

This canton, which is entirely surrounded by that of St. Gallen, was 
divided after the religious wars of 1597 into two half-cantons , Ausser- 
Rhoden and Inner-Rhoden, and to this day party-feeling on religious ques- 
tions is very strong. Inner-Rhoden , which consists of pasture-land and 
is 63 sq. M. in area, is almost exclusively Roman Catholic, and down to 
1848 permitted no Protestants to settle within its limits ; even Roman Catho- 
lics who were not natives of the canton were strictly excluded. This restric- 
tion was nominally rescinded by an article of the Federal consitution in 
1848, but little change has practically taken place. Population 12,90', "f 

4* 



52 I. Route 17. HEIDEN. The Canton 

whom about 550 only are Protestants. The inhabitants generally occupy 
scattered cottages and huts ; they are, according to Merian (1650), 'a rough, 
hardy, homely, and pious folk' ; their costume is picturesque and primitive, 
and cattle-breeding and cheese-making are their chief pursuits. — Aubbeb- 
Ehodes (90 sq. M., 54,200 inhnb., 3594 Rom. Cath.) belongs to the Reformed 
Church ; one- fourth of its population is engaged in the cotton and silk manufac- 
ture, chiefly for firms at St. Gallen. Almost every house has its loom, the 
products of which often exhibit extraordinary taste and skill, and were 
objects of admiration at the London and Paris Industrial Exhibitions. 

Whey-cure Establishments in the Canton of Appenzell : Gais, Weitsbad, 
Heiden, Gonten, Waldstatt, etc. The goats' whey is prepared on the pastures of 
the Sentis ; the milk is heated, and the whey separated from it by the ad- 
dition of rennet. The whey (' SchotterC ) thus prepared is of a yellowish-green 
colour, semi-transparent, entirely free from caseine, but rich in saccharine 
matter. The process takes place at night. Early in the morning the goat- 
herds carry the hot whey on their backs to the different establishments be- 
low. The whey-makers have about 500 goats on the Sentis, and even buy 
goats' milk from other districts, to supply the hotel-keepers. After the sepa- 
ration of the whey, the cheese is manufactured in the ordinary manner. 

Railway from Winkeln to Appenzell in IV2-2 hrs. -, from St. Gallen to 
Oaii in l l /« DT ' i from Rorschach to Heiden in 55 minutes. — Diligence from 
Rheineek to Heiden twice daily in l s /4 hr. ; from Au to Heiden via, Berneci, 
once daily in 3 hrs. 5 from Heiden via Trogen and Speicher to Teufen 
twice daily in 2 s /4brs.; from Allstatlen to Gais daily in 2 hrs. ; from Gait 
to Appenzell five times daily in 35 min. ; from St. Gallen via Speicher to 
Trogen thrice daily in 1 hr. 40 min. — Carriage from St. Gallen to Trogen 
6 fr. (34 pers. 10 fr.), to Appenzell 9 or 16, Weis3bad 10 or I6V2 fr. ; half-fare 
more for the return. 

The Rail-way from Rorschach to Heidbn, 4V3 M. long , is 
constructed on the rack - and - pinion system (maximum gradient 
1 : 11). The train starts from the harbour station (p. 50), stops at 
the outer station, where the toothed rail begins, and then ascends 
through orchards and vineyards, affording charming glimpses of the 
lake. On the left, below, is the picturesque chateau of Wartegg, on 
the right Wartensee. We then cross a ravine, pass through a cutting, 
and traverse wood. Near (2!/ 2 M.) stat. Wienachten (1930') are 
large quarries of fossiliferous sandstone. We cross the gorge of that 
name by a lofty viaduct, obtaining to the left a beautiful view of 
the rich valley, with the mountains of the Bregenzer Wald beyond, 
and the mouth of the Rhine below ; then ascend through orchards 
and wood, past a deep ravine on the left, to (3 M. ) stat. Schwendi, 
and skirt the wooded Oalgentobel in a wide bend. 

4'/3 M. Heiden. — "Fkeuiop, r., l., & A. 3-4, B. Vfc, x>. 4, S. 2V«, 
pens. 8'/2 fr., whey 80 c. ; "Schweizerhof, R., L., & A. 3'/ 2 , B. H/4, D. 3'/», 
S. S'/sfr.; Sonnenhugel, at the upper end of the village, near the Kur- 
halle; "Lowe, pens. 672 fr. ; Krone, pens. 6 fr. ; Linde; °Zdm Pabadies; 
Zur Frohen Aussicht, well spoken of. Lodgings at Tobler't, the post- 
master. Baths in the Quellenhof. — Visitors'' Tax for a stay of several 
days 1 fr. 20 c. — English Church Service in summer. 

Heiden (2465'; pop. 3453), a thriving village with substantial 
houses, rebuilt since a Are in 1838, lies in the midst of sunny and 
sheltered meadows, and is a favourite whey-cure resort. Mineral 
water may also be procured. At the upper end is a tasteful Kw- 
halle. The gallery of the church-tower contains a good telescope, 
and affords a fine panoramic view, including the Lake of Constance. 



V 



\. Sub 



lut; 



^mo**^ 


p^ktaf 


1 


-tritartd 



■rp^ i 



.■**£, 






Fjirth, j 
, , 'Vwn&eriWq V i \._ /\s 



''■ Hud J : ] #£»»*■ 



emu 



/ ScW ■ ■ ... 

^j*f J iuti.--.Um 




win. ' 

if-4/opitn 



hmt.J/ufik) 



f<**W 



Wli 



jjfe' 



nOruti 









f JfJagil Tfc 



«W 



XVronbmj 



,'■ i.m^ 









« „ 4',, , *v//Vrf\T Jr^sr „ A"*/ st^n™» 

SiZMi YT* GrnMlhoirn 

OkJSasrm. fcapf ' 

,w«uta I ^"fe-^v ,>; •3u*fc i **>.^- -hvi..,i ■■' ■■'■ 

•' ('^*- » 



. .-^Tfi^-'T'V* eK - '^^ySy~^ Jl 



■ • ! ™$^ pi \ :fr m * v,jr •*—«■ 






torlq JfW'/r ^S.f , IH-<ald,n " „„ W' . j i I' "' I VX\rS.»A;. 






jQuartenL'^_i 










*.n Burxcfwch 



'■;, asissi --. oi>eree£"*---JKeut« j IBS, . 



"Jlbhr, 






nnejt 
PailtTiTfiua, . 



led 



AIM/ ,) /' Mmgtti&F^sil 

■kSJumpJtul'I ' - 

SoKU'tw _JL^-"~V »~~ 15hiifrm 

*•'*' !XtWcissva4s 



t" >" 

s'Mosttn.Jfp --^^krnmsei ' 

VU — ~'a i <, Jbnstt 

r— Limbos , Air — ^*™- _ 

Sommeri 




VJijc 




■•f*«jwerwuep. ' 7 , j^ 




■ T[ f KlausL -/ 



^ /5$5 






mSesbiy 1 " K ^v 



T.M 






J 1 s j? v. Jnasstrrm^. J 11 



HendeJen ) If) \ \ ) x^ 

irasfcnwr // ^ . . , . 
ASanA, li tflirt] 




\ IK 



Otusilen 



/ 






,j_ J^&U 




H j Iriesen 




ScheqfTlly \ 



Arihluhof. 



TE5TH. v. 



■BlJmW / 



50.000 



"WaiJjrar&DebeS/leipia^. 



of Appenzell. KAIEN. X. Route 17. 53 

Walks. To the "Sellevue, a hill 20 min. to the S.E. , on the right 
bank of the Gstaldenbach , with a beautiful view of Heiden and the 
Lake of Constance, and in 10 min. more to the Sentisblick ; S.W. to the 
Sasenbiihl , BenzenrilH, and *Steinli, with a pavilion and charming view ; 
S. to Bischo/sberg (see below). To the W. , below the Grub road (see 
below), the Krdhenwald (pleasant grounds); N.W. ( 3 / 4 hr.) the Rossbiihel 
above Wienachten (see p. 52; tavern, good wine). 

A road affording picturesque views leads from Heiden to the N.E. 
via Wol/halden (2322'; Friedberg) to (4V2 M.) Rheinegg (p. 341; diligence 
twice daily in 3 ji hr.) ; another attractive road to the W. via Grub, Eggers- 
ried, and the Marlinstobel (p. 50) to (8 M.) St. Gotten (p. 48). To Rorschach 
a pleasant footpath and a carriage-road (4'/2 M.) via Zelg and Wienachten. 

The *Chapel of St. Anthony CSt. AnWnibild" ; 3635'; Rbssli Inn, 
adjacent), l'A hr. to the S. of Heiden, affords a famous view of the 
Rhine Valley (preferable to that from the Kaien) , Bregenz, Lindau, part 
of the Bodensee, and the Vorarlberg and Appenzell Mts. One route to the 
chapel is by Oberegg; another, shorter, leads by the orphan-houses and 
the Bischo/sberg (see above). From the chapel to AUstdtten (p. 342) l'/2 hr. 

The Kaien, l'/4 hr. to the S.W. of Heiden, is also frequently ascended 
(guide desirable, IV2 fr.)- We at first follow the Trogen road ; after 13/4 M. 
we ascend to the right towards some houses, where a boy may be engaged 
as a guide; 10 min., the path enters pine-wood (rather steep here), then 
crosses an open meadow with a few chalets, and ascends the small peak of 
the (V2 hr.) 'Kaien (3670'). The view embraces a great part of the Lake of 
Constance and Canton Thurgau , the embouchures of the Rhine and the 
Bregenzer Ach, the Vorarlberg and Liechtenstein Mts., with the white chain 
of the Rhsetikon and the Scesaplana above them to the S.E. To the S. it 
affords a characteristic glimpse of the Appenzell district: the Kamor and 
Hohe Kasten, the five peaks of the Furgglen-First and Kanzel, the double- 
peaked Altmann , the snow-fields of the Sentis , and the Todi farther 
distant; in the foreground woods, meadows, and the thriving villages of 
Wald, Trogen, and Speicher; to the left above Trogen rises the Gabris 
(see below) ; to the right, near Speicher, the Vogelisegg (see below) ; to the 
left, above Speicher, in the distance, the Pilatus and the Rigi. — The Kaien 
is lV2hr. from Speicher, and 2V2 hrs. from St. Gall. Trogen seems almost 
within a stone's-throw, though really 3 M. distant. The path descends to 
the right by the Gup/ (Inn) and Rehtobel ("Hirsch), a village almost wholly 
burnt down in 1890, beyond which the road to Trogen is visible in the 
wooded ravine far below. Near the bridge, in the valley below, is a rustic 
tavern 'Am Goldach'. 

The Gabeis (see p. 54) may be ascended from Heiden direct (avoiding 
the Kaien) : to St. Anthony's Chapel (see above) l'/4 hr. ; then along the 
arete, with a charming survey of the Rhine Valley and the Sentis, to the 
Landmark (Inn , comp. p. 342) and the summit of the Gabris , a beautiful 
walk of 2 hrs. 

The road to Trogen (672 M.) ascends the E. slope of the Kaien 
(see above) to the (2i/ 4 M.) Langenegg (3182'; Inn) and then leads 
up and down hill, past Rehtobel (see above), situated beyond the 
deep valley of the Goldach on the right, and (2i/ 4 M.) Wald (3150'; 
Sonne), to (2 M.) — 

Trogen (2975'; pop. 2578; Hirsch; *Krone), a prosperous Till- 
age pleasantly situated and visited as a summer-resort. 

Road over the Landmark to (7 M.) AUstdtten, see p. 342. — Fkom St. 
Gaixen to Tkogen (6 M.), diligence thrice daily in 1 hr. 40 min. The 
road leads past the nunnery of Kotkersegg and the inn of Kurzegg (p. 50), to 
the (4 M.) '-'Vogelisegg (1358'; *38tel-Pension), which affords a fine view 
of the Lake of Constance, the populous and rich pasture-lands of Speicher 
and Trogen and of the Vorarlberg and Appenzell Mts. A point in front 
of the hotel commands a specially fine prospect of the Sentis. Descent to 
('/ M 1 Speicher (3070' ; Lowe ; Krone) and across the Bachtobel to (l'/4 M.) 



54 I. Route 17. GAIS. The Canton 

Trogen. — From Trogen to (4*/4 M.) Teufen, diligence twice daily in 1 hr. 
Steam-tramway from St. Gallen to Gais via, Teufen, see p. 57. 

From the church at Trogen a road leads via (3^2 M.) Buhler 
(p. 57) to (13/4 MO Gais, but the path over the *Gabris (4100') 
is shorter and far more attractive. 

The traveller coming from the Kaien follows the Trogen and Buhler 
road to the 0/2 hr.) top of the hill (3487' ; view of the Sentis) ; a finger- 
post here indicates the path to the left to Gais over the Gabris. Those 
who come from Vbgelisegg should not go on to Trogen, but quit the high- 
road beyond the Bachtobel (see above) by a flight of steps to the right. A 
small valley lies immediately on the right, and the path ascends gradually 
across meadows. After 3 /t hr. (from Speicher) this path reaches the road 
from Trogen to Buhler at a few hundred paces from the finger-post. About 
5 min. beyond the latter we reach two houses. Where the ascent begins, 
5 min. farther on, we keep to the left. Farther on, the road skirts a wood 
(at the beginning of which the descent to the left is to be avoided). At the 
point (12 min.) where a row of old pine-trees flanks the road on the right, 
a footpath between two of these ascends, chiefly through wood, in 20 min. 
to the summit. The point first attained is the Signalhohe (4110'), the view 
from which is obstructed by wood. A few min. farther on is an "Inn (4100'), 
whence a charming prospect is enjoyed (l 1 /* hr. from Speicher). Hence 
to Gais a descent of 1 /-t hour. Walkers in the reverse direction find finger- 
posts at doubtful points. Numerous benches. 

Gais (3075'; pop. 2495; *Krone, R. & A. 2i/ 2 -3i/ 2 , pens. 7fr.; 
*Ochs, Adler, Hirsch, Rothbach, etc., plain), a trim-looking village, 
in the midst of green meadows, is the oldest of the Appenzell whey- 
resorts, having been in vogue since 1749. Fine view of the Sentis 
from the Kurgarten. 

Steam-tramway to St. Qallen, see p. 57. — The Road fkom Gais to 
Altstatten (6 M., diligence daily in l'/4 hr., from Altstatten to Gais in 
l'/« hr.) is level for the first IV2 M., and then descends uninterruptedly 
from the point where it diverges from the old road and winds round the 
mountain. The old road, shorter for pedestrians, and far preferable on 
account of the view, leads to the left over the ('/ 4 hr.) 'Stoss (3130' ; Pen- 
sion Stoss), a chapel on the pass, with a celebrated view of the Rhine 
Valley, the Vorarlberg, and the Grisons. Here, on 17th June, 1405, 400 
Appenzellers under Rudolf von Werdenberg signally defeated 3000 troops 01 
the Archduke Frederick and the Abbot of St. Gallen. The old road rejoins 
the new immediately below the Stoss, but soon diverges again. The road 
to the left, descending in zigzags, is the better ; that to the right is steeper, 
but shorter. — Those who intend proceeding from the Stoss to the Sentis 
may leave Gais and Appenzell to the right, and descend direct to the (2 
hrs.) Weissbad, by the Hohe HirscKberg (3835'; fine panorama). 

A road traversing meadows leads from Gais to (3 M.) Appenzell 
(2550'; pop. 4477; *Lowe, *Hecht,*Hirsch, all moderate; beer at the 
Krone), another whey-resort, the capital of Canton Inner-Rhoden, on 
the Sitter, a large village consisting chiefly of old wooden houses. It 
contains two monasteries, and was formerly a country-seat of the Ab- 
bots of St. Gallen, Appenzell being a corruption of 'Abbatis Cella'. 
The Hospital, the Church, erected in 1826, and the Landesarchiv, 
containing interesting charters, are worthy of note. Shady prome- 
nades on the Sitter. — Railway to Urnasch and Winkeln, see p. 48. 

A road leads from Appenzell (also a footpath from the station) 
to the S.E., crossing the Sitter and passing the Hotel Steinegg, to the 
(2 M.) *Weissbad (2680'; omnibus to and from the station 1 fr., 



ofAppenxell. WEISSBAD. I. Route 17. 55 

to meet the earlier trains only), another whey-cure and health 
resort (E. & A. 21/2-4, B. 1.20, D. 3, S. 2 fr., cheaper for a longer 
stay ; also river-baths), pleasantly situated at the base of the Appen- 
zellMts., and a good starting-point for excursions. 

Guides' Fees (Joh. Jos. Bitchier, Euber, Jac. and Joh. Koster): Wild- 
kirchli 5, Ebenalp 5, Sentis 10, over the Sentis to Wildhaus 20, Altmann 
12, Holie Kasten 6, over the latter into the Rhine Valley 10 fr. — Horse 
to Wildkirchli 10, Ebenalp 12, Hohe Kasten 10, Kamor 9 fr. — Carriage 
to St. Gallen and Altstatten with one horse 12 , with two horses 25 fr. ; to 
Gais 8 or 14 fr. ; to Appenzell 3 or 6 fr. 

From Weissbad to the Rhine Valley. The direct route by the 
Hohe Kasten (5'/2 hrs.) leads to the S.E. through (V2 hr.) Briilisau (3030'; 
Krone, rustic) ; by the church we follow the paved path , past the first 
house , as far as a barn , and ascend the meadows (towards the inn 
which lies conspicuously at the foot of the Kamor) as far as the last 
group of houses, V2 nr - ; then straight on (not by the beaten path), through 
the enclosure on the right, to the Inn 'Ruhsitz' (4495'; 72 hr., bridle-path 
thus far), at the 8.W. base of the Kamor (5215'). From the inn a steep 
ascent of 1 hr. by a good path, to the summit of the "Hohe Kasten (5900'; 
"Inn), which slopes precipitously on the E. towards the Rhine Valley. Splendid 
view of the Sentis group, with its three spurs on the N.E., which is nowhere 
seen to such advantage; in the other direction we see the Rhine Valley, 
stretching as far as the Lake of Constance, and the Alps of the Vorarlberg 
and Grisons. We may now descend by a steep and stony path to (3 hrs.) 
stat. Sennwald-Saletz (p. 342). It diverges from the Weissbad path to the 
left, just below the saddle between the Kamor and Hohe Kasten, skirts 
the W. and S. slopes of the latter, and descends in zigzags (no possibility 
of mistake; several finger-posts lower down). Traversing wood for the 
last hour, we at length reach the village of Sennwald and the station. 

The favourite walk from the Weissbad is to the Wildkibchli, 
1% hr. to the S. (guide 5 fr., unnecessary). Following the road 
to Briilisau (see above) for 100 paces, we ascend to the right ; 8 min., 
a house, whence the bridle-track diverges to the left, while the 
good footpath leads straight on through a gate, crossing the bridle- 
path at (15 min.) a double gate ; we then cross the meadow in the 
direction of the Ebenalp, or rather towards the depression between 
it and the wooded Bommen-Alp (to the left). A little below the 
top of the hill (40 min.) we turn to the left. (In 10 min. more the 
direct path to the Ebenalp diverges to the right ; see p. 56). The 
path approaches the foot of the precipitous rocks which descend from 
the Ebenalp to the Seealp-Thal (see p. 56). Near the (V2 hr-) 
*Zum Escher tavern (4790') we ascend to the right by a narrow, 
but safe path, skirting the perpendicular rocks, to the (5 min.) 
*Wildkirchli (48450, formerly a hermitage, founded in 1656, with 
a chapel dedicated to St. Michael, situated in a gTotto (33' wide ; 
tavern). On the patron-saint's day (at the beginning of July) and 
on St. Michael's Day (29th Sept.) solemn services are conducted 
here, and the grotto and the Ebenalp attract numerous visitors. View 
of the deep Seealp-Thal (with the path to the Sentis opposite, see 
p. 56), and, to the left, of the Lake of Constance. 

A dark passage in the rock , 150 paces long, closed by a door 
(opened by the landlord, who provides a light, i/ 2 fr.), leads from the 
grotto to the "'Ebenalp, where an entirely new Alpine view is dis- 



56 /. Route 17. SENTIS. The Canton 

closed. The (25 min.) summit (5390'; Inn, 6 beds) , commands 
a superb view of the Sentis, Altmann, Lake of Constance, etc. — 
We may descend direct to the (25 min.) Bommen-Alp (p. 55; guide 
useful to the beginning of the distinct path). 

Pleasant walk from Weissbad via Schwendi (see below), leaving the 
Sentis route to the left, to the (l 3 /4 hr.) Seealp-See (3735'; Inn, trout), 
very picturesquely situated in a basin between the Qloggeven and Alten-Alp 
(see p. 67). From the Seealp-See to the Megglitalp (see below) 1 hr., path 
recently improved (wire rope at giddy points). — A steep path leads from 
the Escher tavern (see above) to the Seealp-See in 3 ,4 hr. — To the Leuer- 
fall (3185'), l l /» hr., also interesting; the path ascends the Weistbachtltal 
(guide-post beyond the Weissbad), the last part through beautiful wood. 

The snow-clad *Sentis (8215'), the highest mountain in the 
canton, is most conveniently ascended from the Weissbad (6 hrs. ; 
guide 10 fr. ; one-horse can. to Wasserauen 4 fr.). A road di- 
verges to the right from the road to Briilisau beyond the (3 min.) 
bridge over the Schwendibach, and ascends on the right bank of the 
brook to (!/* hr.) Schwendi (2790'; *Inn Zur Felsenburg, on the 
left bank), and to the (35 min.) Wasserauen Inn, -where the road 
ceases. The ascent now commences (Katzensteig) , following the 
telegraph stakes, on the left side of a ravine through which a brook 
is precipitated; (40 min.) chalets of the Huttenalp (3940'; milk). 
The narrow , but well - denned path now skirts the Schrennen, the 
shelving pastures of the Ologgeren (below which are perpen- 
dicular rocks), affording beautiful glimpses of the Seealp-See far 
below, the Sentis and Altmann, and the Wildkirchli to the right. 
In 3 /4 hr. we pass a refuge-hut, and in 3 / 4 hr. more we reach the 
Megglis- Alp (4985'; plain Inn, bed 2 fr.), in a picturesque basin. The 
path ascends hence rather steeply on the left side of the valley and 
skirts the base of the Rossmaad , being frequently hewn in steps 
(the telegraph stakes commencing 10 min. from the Megglisalp may 
be followed). Aiter 2 hrs. the inn on the Sentis becomes visible. 
In early summer the snow generally begins here , on which we as- 
cend to the inn (steep towards the end) in another hour. Later 
in the season the path leaves the snow on the left, ascends past 
the Wagenlucke ( p . 57), gradually becoming steeper and crossing 
large masses of rock, and also reaches the inn in an hour. The Inn 
(bed 3-4 fr. ; often crowded on Sat. and Sun.; telegraph office) is 
6 min. from the summit of the Sbntis, to which we finally mount 
by a path protected by a railing. 

The *°Vikw (see HeinTs excellent Panorama) extends over N.E. and 
E. Switzerland, embracing the Lake of Constance, Swabia and Bavaria, 
the Tyrolese Jits., the Grisons, and the Alps of Glarus and Bern. — The 
N. peak, separated from the S. by the 'Blaue St/mee'' (not to be tried with- 
out a guide; see p. 57) is named the Qirespiit or Geierspitz (7766'). 

From the Sentis we may descend, at first over snow, and then by a 
path which is very steep at first, over the Scltafboden and the Fliess- 
Alp to (3'/2 - 1 hrs.; in the reverse direction 6 hrs.) Wildhaut or Unter- 
waster in the Toggenburg (p. 59 ; guide desirable). — The usual route 
from the Weissbad to Wildhaus (7'/a-8 hrs.) leads by Briilisau and 
through the Brilltobel to the Sdmblis-See (3965'), passes the Fdhlen-See 
(4750'; chalet*), and ascends to the Zwingli Past (6630'), between the Alt- 



of Appenzell. TEUFEN. .1. Route 17. 57 

mann (see below) on the right, and the Kraialpfirst (6990') on the left. We- 
descend by the Krai-Alp (5933'), and the fuel-Alp (4575') to Wildhaus. This 
route, however, is rough, and the Sentis route (not much longer) is preferable. 

Mountaineers may combine a visit to the Wildkirchli (p. 65) with 
the ascent of the Sentis (guide necessary, 15 fr.) by leaving the valley 
of the Seealp-See to the left. The path leads high above the Seealp- 
See at the base of the Zansler and Schafler across the Alten-Alp, the 
Oehrli, and over the Muschelenberg (numerous fossils) ; hence either to the 
left across the valley to the Wagenlucke (6785') by the path which ascends 
from the Megglisalp (see above), or (1 hr. shorter) across the Blaut Schnee 
(caution on account of the crevasses) past the base of the Girespitz, and over 
the Flatten direct to the summit (7-8 hrs. in all). — A path, constructed by 
the S. A. C, ascends to the summit on the W. side also (6 hrs., with guide). 
It starts from the Qemeinen- Wesen Alp (4210' ; reached from Urnasch or 
Nesslau in 2 hrs.), ascends over stony slopes, and mounts a steep rocky 
slope in zigzags to the first mountain-terrace. The ascent is then more 
gradual, over rock and pasture, to the Fliesbordkamm and the (272 hrs.) 
Club But on the Thierwies (6835'). We next traverse rocks and debris on 
the Gravkopf (7255'), and ascend in zigzags to the arete between the 
Oirespitz and the Sentis. Lastly we mount the Flatten by a flight of steps 
140 yds. long, protected by a wire railing, and reach the (l'/2 hr.) summit. 

The Altmann (8000'; 7 hrs. with guide; toilsome), is ascended from 
the Weissbad via. the Fahlenalp and Zwingli Pass (see above); descent through 
the LBchlibetter to the Megglisalp (p. 56). 

Railway from Appenzell to "Winkeln, via, Urnasch and Herisau, 
see p. 48. — It is preferable, however, to drive via Gais and Teufen 
to St. Gallen (to Gais, 3l/ 2 M., diligence four times daily in 1 hr. ; 
thence to St. Gallen, 8V2 M., steam-tramway in l 4 / 4 hr.). To 
(31/2 M.) Oais, see p. 54. Thence the steam-tramway (rack-and- 
pinion line at the steeper places) descends by the Rothbach to 
(1 3 /4M.) the prettily situated village of .BuMer (2735'; RSssli, etc.), 
and beyond the Rose and Linde inns ascends to (472 M.) Teufen 
(2743'; pop. 4629; *Hecht; *Linde~), a wealthy industrial village, 
picturesquely situated, with a fine view of the Sentis chain. It 
then skirts the W. slope of the Teuferegg, through meadows and 
wood, passing the stations of Stemen, Niederteufen, Lustmiihle, and 
Riethausle, to (8V2 M.) St. Gallen (p. 48). 

The Footpath from Teufen to St. Gallen (IV2 hr.) diverges from 
the high-road near the 'Hecht' inn , and immediately ascends to P/4 hr.) 
the SchSflgs-Egg <$$)$•, tavern); it then descends to P/4 hr.) St. Georgen, 
where it joins the high-road to (l 1 /* M.) St. Gallen. — About 10 min. to 
theW. of the Schafle's-Egg is the Trblichsegg (3290',- "Inn), which com- 
mands an admirable view: Teufen in the foreground, the green Alpine 
valley sprinkled with dwellings, and the Appenzell Mts., beginning with 
the Fahnern, on the left, the Eamor, the Hohe Kasten about the middle of 
the chain, the green Ebenalp below the snow, more to the right the 
Altmann and the Sentis with its snow-fields, then in the distance the 
Glarnisch and Speer; to the W. the railway and road to Wyl, and to 
the N., part of the Lake of Constance. Hence to St. Gallen, 3 M. 

18. From Wyl through the Toggenburg to Buchs 
in the Rhine Valley. 

Comp. Map, p. 52. 
Railway from Wyl to Ebnat, 15>/2 M., in 1 hr. 5 min. (1 fr. 95, 1 fr. 
40 c. ; 2nd and 3rd cl. only). — From Ebnat to Buchs, 24 M., diligence four 



58 I. Route 18. WATTWYL. 

times daily in 5 1 /* hrs. (5 fr. 70 c); also several times daily to Nesslau in 
1 hr., and to Alt St. Johann in 22/3 hrs. — Carriage with one horse from 
Wildhaus to Oami 8 fr. (carriages in Gams to be had at the 'Kreus' inn) ; 
to Buchs, 9 fr. ; to Ebnat, 14 fr. 

Wyl, on the Winterthur and St. Gallen line, Bee p. 48. The train 
traverses the Toggenburg , the busy and populous valley of the Thur. 

When the Counts of Toggenburg became extinct (1436) , the County 
was purchased by the Abbots of St. Gallen, who at the same time secured 
to the inhabitants their ancient rights and privileges. In the course of 
centuries , however , a great part of the population having embraced 
Protestantism , the abbots violated their contract , which resulted in their 
expulsion at the beginning of the 18th century. This gave rise to the 
Toggenburg War, a violent feud in which the Roman Catholic cantons 
espoused the cause of St. Gallen, while the Protestants took the part of 
the Toggenburgers. No fewer than 150,000 men were thus gradually 
brought into the field. In July, 1712, the Roman Catholics were at length 
defeated at Villmergen in the Aargau ; and a general peace was concluded, 
which secured to the Toggenburgers full enjoyment of all their ancient 
liberties, though they were still to belong to the Canton of St. Gallen. 

4^2 M. Batzenheid ; opposite is Jonswyl, with a new church. Op- 
posite (6 M.) Liltisburg we cross the Guggerloch by a viaduct 170 yds. 
long, and 190' high. Stations Biitschwyl, Dietfurt, and (lO 1 ^ M.) 
Lichtensteig (pop. 1529; *Krone), a pleasant town on a rocky 
height, with a modern Gothic church. On a hill to theE. (l'^hr.) 
is the ruin of Neu-Toggenburg (3565'), a fine point of view. 

121/2 M. Wattwyl (2027'; Boss; *Toggenburg~), a charming 
village, with 5260 inhab. and a new church. (Diligence to Utz- 
nach, 4 times daily in l 3 / 4 hr., see p. 43.) On a hill to the right is 
the nunnery of St. Maria der Engeln, and above it the ruin of 
Yberg. The last station is (15y 2 M.) Ebnat-Kappel. The village of 
Ebnat (2106'; * Krone; *Adler ; Rosenbiihl, a restaurant with view) 
is a thriving place ; 1 M. to the N. W. is Kappel (Traube; Stem). 

The "Speer (6417') may be ascended through the Steinthal in 5 hrs. 
(not difficult for experts, but near the top rather trying; comp. p. 44); or 
from Neu St. Johann, or from Nesslau (see below), by the Alp im Load 
and the Herren-Alp in 5 hrs. (guide 7 fr.). 

The road, commanding a view of the Curflrsten opposite, and, 
near Neu St. Johann, of the Sentis on the left, ascends slightly on 
the right bank of the Thur, to Krummenau (2385'), where the 
'Sprung', a natural rock-bridge, crosses the stream, Neu St. Johann 
(.Schafle), with an old Benedictine abbey, and (4i/ 2 M.) — 

20 M. Nesslau (2470'; *Krone; Traube; Stern), with a pretty 
church. 

To] Uenasch over the Keazekn Pass (4>/2 hrs.), interesting. A| road 
ascends from Neu St. Johann through the Lauterthal, via Ennetbilhl and 
the Riedbad or Ennetbiihler-Bad, to the (l'/ 2 hr.) Alp Bernhalden (3402') ; a 
path to the left then ascends through the Krdzernwald to the Krazern 
Pass (3936'), and crosses the pastures of Krazern to the (2 hrs.) Rossfall-Alp 
(Inn), whence a road leads to (1 hr.) Urnasch (p. 48). — Ascent of the 
Sentis (p. 66) from Nesslau, 6'/4 hrs. : from (l'/ 2 hr.) Bernhalden (see above) 
in s/ 4 hr. to the Alp Oemeinen - Wesen (4210'); new path thence to the (4 hrs.) 
top (p. 57). — Ascent of the Speer, see above. 

The scenery becomes bleaker. The road leads past a fine fall of 
the Weisse Thur to (2y 4 M.) Stein ( Krone) and (2y t M.) Stnrkenbach 



WILDHAUS. I. Route 18. 59 

(Drei Eidgenossen), a straggling village. To the right is the ruin 
of Starkenstein. (Over the Amdener Berg to Weesen, seep. 44; 
guide to the pass advisable.) Passing (ll/ 2 M.) Alt St. Johann 
(2920'; *R6ssli) and (3/ 4 M.) Vnterwasser (Stern; Traube), prettily 
situated at the sources of the Thur, we ascend to (3 3 / 4 M.) — 

301/2 M. Wildhaus (3600'; *Hirsch; Sonne). A little before the 
village, on the right, is the wooden house, blackened with age, in 
which Zwingli was born in 1484. Wildhaus belonged to Rhsetia till 
1310, and the region of the Romansch language (p. 347) extended 
to this point. Behind the village, which lies at the foot of the Schaf- 
berg (7820'), we obtain a survey of the seven Curfirsten (p. 44); 
or still better from the (8/4 hr.) Sommerikopf (4317'). 

Ascent of the Sentis from Wildhaus or Alt St. Johann (via the Fliess- 
Alp and the Schafboden in 6 hrs., with guide; toilsome), see p. 57. — ToWeiss- 
bad by the Krayalp, the Fdhlensee, and Sambtis-See (7hrs.), see p. 57. — To 
Walenstadt over the Kaserruck, 6 hrs., see p. 45. 

The road descends, finally describing a long bend (short-cut for 
walkers to the right at the beginning of the bend), to (6 M.) 
Oams (1575'; *Kreuz), in the Rhine Valley, and then leads straight 
to (IV2 M.) Haag (p. 342), while a road to the right leads via Grabs 
and Werdenberg to (3i/ 2 M.) — 

391/2 M. Buchs (p. 342). 

19. From Ziirich to Glarus and Linththal. 

53 M. Railway (Nordostbahn) to Glarus (43 M.) in 2V« hrs. (7 fr. 20, 
5 fr. 5, 3 fr. 60 c.) ; from Glarus to Linththal (10 M.) in 40-50 min. (1 fr. 
60c, ifr. 15c., 80 c.). (From Weesen to Glarus, 71/2 M., in 25 min.; lfr. 
25c, 90c, 65 c). Carriages are usually changed at Glarus. 

Railway on the left bank from Zurich to (36 M.) Ziegelbrucke, 
see pp. 42, 43. The train again crosses the Linth Canal (p. 43) and 
traverses the broad valley towards the S. ; on the right the Wiggis 
and Glarnisch (see below). 37 M. Nieder- and Ober-Urnen; 39 M. 
Nafels-Mollis, junction for (I1/4 M.) Weesen (p. 43). 

Nafels (1434' ; Linthhof ; Hirsch; Schweri) and Ober-Urnen are 
the only Roman Catholic villages in Canton Glarus. The church is the 
finest in the canton. The restored Freuler Palace, now a poor-house, 
contains some exquisite panelling. On 9th April, 1388, the canton 
here shook off the Austrian yoke. In the Rautif 'elder, where eleven 
attacks took place, stand eleven memorial stones (monument in the 
Sandlen). On the second Thursday of April the natives flock to Nafels 
to celebrate the anniversary. — On the opposite bank of the Escher 
Canal lies Mollis (1470'; *Bar, *L6we, bothmoderate ; *Pens. Haltlf), 
an industrial village. (Over the Kerenzenbtrg to Miihlehorn, see p. 44.) 

Excursions (guide, M. Hauler). The Rautispitz (7493'), the summit 
of the Wiggis Chain (see p. 60), rising abruptly to the S.W., is ascended 
from Nafels in 5Vz-6 hrs. (interesting; no difficulty; guide 18 fr.). On the 
right bank of the Rautibach, with its numerous falls, we ascend in zigzags, 
cross the Thrangibach, and reach a road through wood. Passing above the 
(1 hr.) Haslentee (2460'), we reach the ( 3 /4 hr.) charming Obersee (3225'), skirt 
the lake to the left, ascend through wood to the Grappli-Alp (4730') and 



60 /. Route 19. ■ GLARUS. From Zurich 

(2 hrs.) Rauti-Alp (5400'), and in Vfa hr. more to the summit, which slopes 
gradually on the W. side (beautiful view). — A rocky arSte 1 hr. in length, 
traversed by a path which should not be attempted by those subject to 
dizziness, connects the Rautispitz with the Scheye (7420'), the second highest 
peak of the Wiggis. The Scheye may also be ascended from Vorauen (p. 66) 
by the Langenegg-Alp (4'/2 hrs.), or from the Klonthaler See (p. 66) by the 
Berberig and the Deyenalp (4 hrs.), or from Netstall by the Auern-Alp (5 hrs.). 

41 M. Netstall (St. Fridolin ; Bar ; Rabe ; Schwert), a large vill- 
age (pop. 2326), lies at the E. base of the Wiggis. The Lontsch, 
descending from the Klonthal (p. 67), falls into the Linth here. 

43 iil. Glarus. — !S Glarner Hof, at the station, R., L., &A. 4, B. i'/z, 
D. 4 fr. ; Drei Eidgenossen, R., L., & A. 2, B. 1 fr. ; Lowe ; Sonne ; Adlek; 
beer at the Cafi Tobias, opposite the station, at the Raben, etc. ; Restau- 
rant (plain) on the Bergli (1883 1 ), 20 min. to the W. of the town, an ad- 
mirable point of view. 

Glarus (1490' ; pop. 5401), Fr. Olaris, the capital of the canton, 
with busy industries, lies at the N.E. base of the precipitous and 
imposing Vorder- Glarnisch (7648'), at the "W. base of the Schild 
(7503^, and at the S.E. base of the Wiggis (see above), the barren, 
grey summits of which form a striking contrast to the fresh green on 
its slopes. The Hausstock (10,355') forms the background to the S.; 
to the left the Karpf stock (9180'), to the right the fiucfti(10,190 r ). 
In 1861 , during a violent 'Fohn' (S. wind), the greater part of 
the town was burned down. The new Romanesque church is used 
by the Roman Catholics and the Protestants in common. In 1506- 
12 the reformer Zwingli was pastor at the old church, on the site of 
which the law-courts now stand. The two grassy spaces in front 
represent the old cemetery. The Law Courts contain the Can- 
tonal Archives , the public Library , and collections of antiquities 
and natural curiosities (fine fossils). In the Government cf Postal 
Buildings is an excellent relief-model of the canton of Glarus by 
Becker (adm. free). In the art department is a small Picture 
Gallery, containing chiefly works by Swiss artists. The Public 
Gardens, in front of the Glarner Hof, are embellished with a hand- 
some fountain, and contain memorial stones to the statesmen J.Heer 
(d. 1879) and J. J. Blumer (d. 1876), both natives of Glarus. — On 
the opposite bank of the Linth lies the busy manufacturing village 
of Enrienda (H6tel Neues Bad, Schiitzenhof). 

Excursions (guides, see p. 62). The Schild (7500') is a fine point (5 l /2 
hrs. ; guide 12 fr.). The path from Glarus leads through wood and pastures, 
and over the Ennetberge, to the (3 hrs.) Heuboden-Alp (4770') and thence 
to the right, without difficulty, tn the top in 2^2 hrs. more. Admirable 
view of the Miirtschenstock, Todi, and Glarnisch. — The Fronalpstock 
(6980'; similar view) is easily ascended by the Ennetberge and the Fronalp 
in 5 hrs. — To the Murgthal from the Heuboden-Alp, by the Murttchm- 
Alp (Oberstafel, 6063'), see p. 45 (to the Merlen-Alp direct, 2 hrs.i over 
the Afurgseef urkel to the ifurgseen, 2 l /t hrs.). — To Filzbach (8 hrs.; 
guide unnecessary for experts), a fine route : we cross the Fronalp (Mittltre 
5193', Obere 11039'), pass between the Fronalpstock and Fahristock to the 
(6 hrs.) Spaimegg (5108'), skirt the little Spatmegg-See (4767 1 ; with the 
Miirtschenstock on our right, p. 44), and descend over the Platlen-Alp to the 
Thalalp-See (3610') and(3hrs.).Ftte6acA (p. 45). — The Vorder- Glarnisch (7648'), 
from Glarus 5'/2-6 hrs. (guide 13 fr. ; laborious), see p. 66. 



•<l'ir..l, j^^ 



A/,,^4* l>™-.Ui.Sp. ' 



fit 

^i' 7 f.etrftrn.4-. " , \~- 

<*tticttrjjB: (j iy H , .Tsi . 









Venkmul "Verd .filrimisrll 






: Ccid;t7- 






V«a/«tlMfc 

£Upt*rtfu-r. •// 

Amlm/l'n'S ^f'r-u. 



j,., ... K ; Ort oA.. x -- 

IV 1 ,'/ J »-*^?- SiUimn. St., 







bach ) s : j 
fttats 




•\inis 



ft 1 "'-/ 

ainrrjtpo tim 



Silbfi-Sp. 






Xictjc 



t< 

si- , •* 

Planum JtfZavch, 

WW 






J 
/Biudut 



.,,„ <*p„ ,*«sf/' p ; 



<P filaui 



GufUnf, 



"WHssmSS 

\ / 

"Wnlfriltfuri, 

•(Tie- 

.Tlftfc 

,SYImtir(j!\iL 



'.>m|ul|» 






"S \ !«>o«tncWi 



In, _ , 



V.Sol 



exSJ. 



tM^S*^ Stirda 
Smir«nst,' C> 



^ 



J iV.SeimcK 5V -i " Tin i it ei Furca Gin. to* fit • 1 ^ i , t 



iB&he 






-—--TV"' * ^ Mrtnxw puree 



w**? \ '-^» >^Piiw^ p* 



Simrl 



<S"soh«!p V 

£^J>. i Craplllnt 

\ 



Wpssagit 



1,/mM 



<Pj 
/ -AJUnuisvu - 






I&ulertt- 



&0~datrc%; 



Pintnai 



**i\. 



&ara 



: ftbebesieip2 



to Linththal. SCHWANDEN. /. Route 19. 61 

The "Klonthal (p. 66) deserves a visit. Good road to the Klonthaler 
See 4 ] /2 M., thence to Vorauen 4'/2 M. more (one-horse carr. there and' back 
16, two-horse carr. 20-25 fr.). 

From Glarus over the Pragel to Schwyz, see R. 21 ; through the Sernf- 
thal to Coire, see R. 22. 

The railway to Linththal crosses the Linth six times. 44 M. 
Ennenda (see p. 60). Near (45i/ 2 M.) Mitlddi (1665'; Hirsch), and 
again beyond it, we obtain a superb view of the Todi and its neigh- 
bours, which are not visible beyond Schwanden. On the right bank 
lies Ennetlinth. The scenery is picturesque, the fertile valley with its 
factories contrasting pleasantly with the rocky and wooded slopes 
and the snow-mountains at its head. Pedestrians, who will also 
find this valley attractive, follow the right bank of the Linth, via. 
Ennenda, Ennetlinth, Sool, and Haslen, to Hcitzingen (see below). 

47 M. Schwanden (1712'; Rail. Restaurant; *Schwandner Hof, 
near the station; Adler, pens. 5-6 fr.), with large factories, lies at 
the junction of the Sernf-Thal or Klein-Thai with the Linth-Thal or 
Gross-Thai. 

Diligence to Elm, see p. 67. — To the Oherblegi-See (4680'), a pleasant 
excursion, by Nidfurn, in 3 hrs. ; fine view of the Linththal and Todi. 
We may also ascend by the charmingly situated villages of Thon and 
Schwdndi to the (3'/2 hrs.) Guppen-Alp (5510'), go on past the small Guppen- 
Seeli and the Leuggelstoek (6673') to the (1 hr.) Oberblegi Lake, and return 
by Nidfurn. 

The train crosses the Linth below the influx of the Sernf and 
passes through the village of Schwanden. Beyond (48M.) Nidfurn- 
Haslen is Leuggelbach, with a fine waterfall on the right. 50 M. 
Luchsingen-Hatzingen, two well-to-do villages, one on each bank 
of the Linth. We cross the stream to (51 M.) Betschwanden-Dies- 
bach (1958'); on the left, the picturesque fall of the Diesbach. 

The Saasberg (6467'), a spur of the Freiberg Range, easily ascended 
from Betschwanden, Riiti, or Stachelberg in 3'/4-4 hrs., commands a strik- 
ing view of the head of the valley and the surrounding mountains. — 
Karpfstock (EochMrpf, 9177'), the highest of the Freiberge, laborious, and 
suitable for experts only (with guide; 7-8 hrs. from Betschwanden or Riiti, 
via, Bodmen-Alp and Kuhthal). 

Beyond stat. Riiti we cross the Linth for the last time. 53 M. 
Linththal, the terminus, lies on the left bank. About 1 / i M. to the 
N. are the favourite *Baths of Stachelberg (2178'; *Glarner's 
Hotel, R., L., & A. 3i/ 2 -4, D. 3i/ 2 , S. 2i/ 2 fr., B. 1 fr. 30 c, board 
6y 2 fr. , visitors' tax 1 fr. per week; dependance at the 'Seggen', 
on the right bank), beautifully situated. The powerful sulphureous 
alkaline water drops from a cleft in the Braunvialdberg , l 1 ^^- dis- 
tant. The *View of the head of the valley is very striking : in the 
centre is the Selbsanft (9920'), to the right the Kammerstock (6975'), 
and adjoining it part of the Todi to the left ; between the latter and 
the Bifertenstock (11,240') lies the Biferten Glacier. Pleasant walks 
have been laid out on the wooded hillside. — English Church Service 
at the hotel in summer. 

A road leads from the station to (% M.) Linththal (2238'; pop. 
2228 ; Bar or Post ; Rabe ; Klausen, all unpretending and good), 



62 J. Route 19. STACHELBERG. From Zurich 

a considerable village on the Tight bank of the Linth, with large 
spinning-mills and other factories. On the opposite bank lies En- 
netlinth (p. 63). 

Excursions. Stachelberg is a good starting-point for exploring the 
Todi region. (Guides: Heinrich and Peter Elmer of Elm, Salomon and 
Adam Zweifel, Heinrich Schiesser, Rob. Hamig, Thorn. Wichter, Jakob Note, 
and Friedrich Vo'geli of Linthtlial ; Fritz Brander, Heinrich Streiff, and 
Abraham Stussi, ofGlarus. High charges.) To the "Fdtschbach-Fall (p. 64) ; 
' Pantenbriicke , "Ueli-Alp, and Sandalp, see below; also to the (l 1 /* hr.) 
Braunwaldberge (4920'; small Inn), a mountain hamlet with a magni- 
ficent view of the Todi, best from beside the school, IV2 M. farther on; 
to the Oberblegi-See (p. 61), etc. — Kammerstock (6975'), by the Kammer- 
Alp, 4 hrs., repaying, and not difficult. — Ortstock, or Silberstock (8908'), 
by the Alp Brack and the Furkel, 6 hrs., laborious: splendid view (guide 
IS tr.). — Crrieset, or Faulen (8940 1 ), by the Braunwaldberge, 6 hrs., attract- 
ive, and not difficult (guide 18 fr.). The Bbse Faulen (9200'), the H. and 
higher peak of the Grieset, is difficult (672-7 hrs. ; guide 30 fr.). These 
peaks afford an interesting survey of the stony wilderness around. Other 
fine points are the Pfannenstock (8440'; 6 hrs.) and the Kirchberg (Hoher Thurm; 
8761'; 7 hrs., with guide). From the Faulen via the Dreckloch-Alp (5560') to 
the Olarnisch-Hiitle (p. 66), i l /t hrs. — Gemsfayrenstock (9758'), from the 
Upper Sandalp (see p. 63), by the Beckenen and the Clariden Olacier in 
3'/2hrs., not difficult. The descent may be made by the Gemifayer-Alp 
to the Urner-Boden (p. 64). 

A road leads from Linththal (one-horse carr. from Stachelberg 
8 fr. for i/ 2 day, two-horse 12 fr. ; whole day 12 or 20 fr.) by the 
Auenguter (Inn 'Im Alien') to the(3y 2 M.) Thierfehd (2680'; *ffitel 
Todi, pens. 5i/ 2 fr.), a green pasture surrounded by lofty mountains. 
During the latter part of the route we have a view of the *Schreien- 
bach Waterfall (230' high), which the morning sun tints with rain- 
bow hues. Fine view from the *Kanzeli, % M. from the inn. 

The beautiful Falls of the Linth, in a romantic rocky basin below the 
Pantenbriicke (see below), are best viewed from a point reached by turn- 
ing to the left at the Kanzeli through wood and ascending the grassy 
slope for about 1 /i hr. (guide advisable). 

A few paces beyond the Hotel a bridge crosses the Linth, beyond 
which the stony path ascends for */ 2 hour. A slab on a large rock on 
the left is to the memory of Dr. Wislicenus, who perished on the 
Griinhorn in 1866. The path then descends a little towards the rav- 
ine, turns a corner, and reaches ('/ihr.) the *Pantenbrucke (3212'), 
160' above the Linth, in the midst of imposing scenery. On the 
right bank, a path ascends the grassy slope straight to the C/4 hr.) 
*Ueli-Alp (3612'), where we enjoy a superb view of the Todi. 

Thence we may either return by the same path to the Hotel Todi; or 
we may ascend to the right to the (l'/4 hr.) Lower Baumgarten-Alp (5285'), 
which lies on the right bank of the valley above the Thierfehd and presents 
a magnificent view, and descend by a narrow and dizzy path (guide desi- 
rable, but not always to be obtained at the Alp, which is usually empty 
in summer) skirting the precipice of the Tritt, turning to the left, 5 min. 
beyond the Baumgarten-Alp, to Obort (3425'; *Inn, plain), and thence to 
the right via the Auenguter to (1 hr.) Linththal. For persons subject to 
giddiness this excursion is preferable in the opposite direction: Linththal, 
Auenguter, Obort, Bimmgarten-Alp, Ueli-Alp, Pantenbriicke. — A steep 
path leads to the E. from the Baumgarten-Alp along precipitous grassy slopes 
to (l'/4 hr.) the rocks of the Thor (6755 1 ), where it becomes easier and bends 
totherightto( 3 |4hr.) the Nijtclienalp (727CC), thence skirting the Mutlenwdndli 
to (i'/« hr.) the club hut on the romantically situated Muttensee (8010 1 ), the 






STiwioitn-stiifk 

1 1 



r Kin7.r 






; . /] \ tiu.np.Tjtock ^ «r*r 




u ' . £M1 

A^ saaplanl- HodfMirffcn. Srtw 
' MalboX „ zm YftnttgMe 

Jmosittyrr-P. 




a'liz i 






Bin.h*«rHi 






■M ;•--• >m 

'Wand 



s 
'•wBloui 






Brlmrten' v 

»■ ,-' „ „ 

•■ Iloh-hauicn 

Gricytfuii '"\ 









^HufiA P.VntM 



■* Hufi-A 



igri „ '••» Si'hwtinstockU 

L " L Kl.WiudgiUle *•*»' 



D ^li5^r^« / 



J2fl*\ 



Ober-JEStfii,* 



7 



t-ffirnnfaruatv 



V 






-g S tM^i^e Stbrh 



\ v C-'^ -*/, '^ Jranilerstoriiii-. ^ . ■' 

!or</rr-A - 










IMArlrlla 

Ro.tsho,fan.\ ^ritnt.i., fryinjK-x.Om,* 



- wis* ..: ^ 





Crem-iftpfer J 
Tejufels- k v> :r£^BHge 



VTTuaiMut s-'hpiJstocWi 
»m Riicht 



f >v^ 




' V 2S05. 



vidvn 



,, /fVordcr 
V IjSaiuJ, 



L. IMI.I.IUIU V 



■j i l ss^-^£y .y»tw .■• -| sSffisJdft^ ill 






\/(P.Hus«teT^»EW 




-»« 









fa 

}%£$' \rJP.AaHartgas 



# j'frtp.dji h v' "'JJifiptteiustock 



»s»» 



9° V^-^ftS^T " ar-« •JMUTMMIBIUI.K 






F. Acuta 

2702 





to Linththdl. TODI. I. Route 19. 63 

loftiest lake among the Swiss Alps. The hut, which has accommodation 
for 20 persons , is the starting-point for the ascents of the Niischenstock 
(9500'), RUchi (9355'), Scheidstock (9220'), Ruchi (lOjigO'), Bausstock (10,340'), 
Muttenstock (10,140'), Piz Darlgas (9135'), Bifertenstock (11,240'), Selbsanfl 
(9920'), and other peaks. Over the Kisten Pass to Ilanz, see below. 

The -Upper Sandalp (6358'), 3'/2hrs. above the Pantenbrucke, is frequently 
visited on account of its grand situation. The path ascends beyond the 
Pantenbrucke to the right (that in a straight direction leads to the Uelialp, 
see p. 62), crosses the Limmern-Bach, which descends from a narrow ravine, 
and the Sand-Bach, and ascends on the left bank to the (1 hr.) Vordere 
Sandalp (4100'; Kefreshm.). The path now returns to the right bank. By 
the ffintere Sandalp (4330') it crosses the Biferten-Bach, and then ascends the 
steep and fatiguing slope of the Ochsenblanken , 2000' in height, where the 
Sandbach forms a fine cascade. Lastly we recross to the left bank, where 
the brook forces its passage through a gorge , and soon reach the (2 hrs.) 
chalets of the Upper Sandalp (Alpine fare and hay-beds in July and August). 
The best point of view is >/2 hr. beyond the chalets. 

The Linth Valley is terminated by a magnificent group'of snow-mountains. 
The giant of this group is the *Todi, or Piz Kussein (11,887'; from Linththal 
10-11 hrs. ; only fit for experts ; guide 40 fr. ; two guides required for one 
traveller, or one guide for two travellers), with its brilliant snowy crest, 
the most conspicuous mountain of N.E. Switzerland, ascended for the first 
time in 1837. The route from the Hintere Sandalp leads through the 
Bifertenthal via the Marenblanken to the (4 1 , / 2 hrs. from Thierfehd) Fridolin Hut 
of theS. A. C. (8080') on the Biferten-Alpeli, and thence up the Biferien-Firn to 
the summit, difficult at places, in 6 hrs. more. Magnificent view. We may 
descend by the Porta da Spescha, between the Piz Mellen (11,085') and 
Stockgron (11,215'), to the Val Russein and (6 hrs.) Disentis (p. 365; guide 
50 fr.); or by the Gliemspforte (10,925'), between the Stockgron and the 
Piz Urlaun, to the Gliems Glacier; then through a gap to the E. of the 
Puntaiglas Glacier and down the Val Puntaiglas to Truns (comp. p. 364). 
— The Bifertenstock or Piz Durgin (11,240'), the second peak of the Todi 
group, may be ascended from the Muttensee Club-hut (see above) via the 
Kisten Pass (see below) and the 'Furggle'' in 6-7 hrs. (difficult; for expert 
climbers only ; guide 40 fr.). 

Passes. From the Upper Sandalp a fatiguing route crosses the Sand- 
firn and the Sandalp Pass (9210') to Disentis in 6-7 hrs. (p. 365; guide 30 fr.); 
another, laborious but interesting, crosses (8 hrs.) the Clakiden Pass 
(9843') to the Maderaner Thai (p. 115; guide 36 fr.). 

From Linththal ovek the Kisten Pass to Ilanz, 13 hrs. (guide 30 fr.), 
fatiguing. Ascent by the (3 hrs.) Baumgarten-Alp to the (3 hrs.) Muttensee 
Club-hut (see above). Thence via the Mutlenalp, the Lattenfirn, and the Kisten- 
band, high above the IAmmernthal and opposite the Selbsanft and Bifer- 
tenstock (with the Gries and Limmern glaciers), to the (i l h nr ) Kisten Pass 
(8200 1 ), lying to the N. of the Kistenstbckli (9020'). Descent by the Alp Rubi 
to (3 hrs.) Brigels (p. 363) and thence to the left to f2>/2 hrs.) Ilanz (p. 361), 
or to the right via Schlans to (2 hrs.) Truns (p. 364). 

From Stachelberg by the Bisithal to Muotathal, see p. 65. 

20. From Stachelberg to Altdorf. Klausen. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 60, 78. 
10 hrs. Bridle-path to Unterschachen: from Stachelberg to Spitelriiti 
3i/4, Klausen 2, Aelpli Aesch I1/4, Unterschachen 1 hr. ; road thence to (7 Jf.) 
Altdorf (diligence every forenoon in H/2 hr. ; 3 fr. 5 c. ; one horse carr. 10, 
from Altorf to Unterschachen 15 fr.). Guide (18 fr.) unnecessary ; horse 
to Unterschachen 27, to Altdorf 32 fr. 

Leaving Stachelberg, we follow the left bank of the Linth, pass 
Ennetlinth, cross the C/2 hr.) Frutbach (small waterfall), and ascend 
to the right through wood; 5 min. farther on (where the path divides, 



64 1. Route 20. KLAUSEN PASS. 

we follow the lower track) we pass a fine *Waterfall of the Fatschbach, 
which descends from the Urner Boden. (In order to view the fall we 
turn to the right, fifteen paces before reaching the little bridge, and 
ascend for '200 paces by a narrow path on the left bank. We then 
return almost to the beginning of the path, and ascend the Frutberg, 
on which we regain the bridle-path in 5 min.) The path ascends 
rapidly through wood for 1 hr. (to the left a new path to the beautiful 
Upper Fatschbach Falls), then for the next 40 min. more gradually. 
A wall and gate form the boundary between Glarus and Uri at the 
point where the Scheidbachli (4290') descends from the right. 

The TJrner Boden (2 1 /* hrs. from Stachelberg), a broad grassy 
and at places marshy valley, with a few groups of chalets, about 4M. 
long and '/2 M- hroad, now begins. It is bounded on the N. by the 
jagged ridge of the Jagernstocke m&Marenberge, culminating in the 
Ortstock (8908') , and on the S. by the glaciers and snow-fields of 
the Clariden (10,728'). About !/ 2 hr. from the frontier of Glarus we 
pass the Alpine tavern Zur Sonne, and then (25 min.) the chalets of 
Spitelriiti, with a chapel on a hill (4560 r ), 

The path traverses the pasture for ^hr. more, and then ascends 
a stony slope, passing ( 3 / 4 hr.) an excellent spring to the left, to the 
('/ihr.) Klausen-Alp and the (^hr.) Klausen Pass (6437'). On the 
W. side we descend the gentle slopes of the beautifully situated 
Bbdmer Alp (to the left, the Grosse Scheerhorn, 10, SIS'). After 
V2 nr -> where the path divides, we turn to the left to the (5 min.) 
chalets of the Lower Balm (5600') and cross the brook to a rocky 
cleft, forming the approach to the Balmwand, which here descends 
precipitously to the Schachenthal. The stony path descends in zig- 
zags to the (V2 nr AelpU ('little Alp') Aesch (4173'; *H6t. Staubi, 
plain). To the left, the discharge of the Gries Glacier, on the N. 
side of the Siheerhorn, forms the magnificent *Stauber Waterfall. 

We now descend the wooded Schachenthal, on the left bank of 
the turbulent Schachenbach. On the right bank (35 min.) the Chapel 
of St. Anna ; 10 min., we cross the stream ; '/ 4 hr., Unterschachen 
(3345'; * Hotel Klausen, pens. 6 fr.), finely situated near the mouth 
of the Brunni-Thal, at the head of which rises the Grosse Ruchen 
(10,295') with its glaciers. (Over the Ruchkehlen Pass totheMaderaner 
Thai, see p. 115.) To the N. rises the Schachenthaler Windgalle 
(9052'), and farther W. the Kinsig Pass (p. 60), the scene of Suvorofl" s 
celebrated retreat. 

A road descends the pretty valley, by Spiringen, Weiterschwanden, 
and Trudelingen, to (5 M .) a stone bridge over the Schachenbach, and 
thence to (1 M.) Biirglen (p. 103) and (1 M.) AUdorf(see p. 102). 



65 
21. From Schwyz to Glarus over the Fragel. 

Corwp. Maps, pp. 78, 60. 

11 hrs. Diligence from Schwyz to (6 M.) Muotathal twice daily in 
I1/2 hr. (1 fr. 55 c.); carriage with one horse 9, with two horses 14 fr. 
From Muotathal over the Pragel to (4>/4 hrs.) Richisau, a bridle-path, 
unattractive ; guide advisable, especially early and late in the season when 
the pass is covered with snow (18 fr. ; Melchior Biirgler, Jos. Owerder or 
Xav. Hediger of Muotathal). No inn between Muotathal and Richisau. The 
pass being uninteresting, it is preferable to visit the Muotathal, as far as 
the Suvoroff bridge, from Schwyz or Brunnen, and the Klbnthal from Glarus 
(see p. 61). 

Schwyz, see p. 101. The road ascends to the S. through or- 
chards and meadows (view of the Lake of Lucerne to the right), and 
in a wooded ravine at the foot of the Giebel (3010') reaches the Muota, 
which flows through a deep rocky channel. Opposite, to the right, 
is Ober-Schbnenbuch, upon which the French were driven back by 
Suvoroff in 1799. Farther up the Muota ravine (2 1 / 2 M.), but not 
visible from the road, is the Suvoroff Bridge, which was contested 
by the Russians and the French for two days. (At a sharp bend 
in the road, 2'/ 2 M. from Schwyz, a road descends to the right to 
this bridge in 3min.; we may then return to Schwyz through wood 
and pastures on the left bank, a pleasant walk of 2 hrs. in all.) 
Beyond (2i/ 2 M.) Kied (1855'; Adler) , on the left, is the pretty 
fall of the Ostubtbach , at first descending perpendicularly , and 
then gliding over the rock. At (1 M.) Follmis (1900') we cross the 
Muota and pass the Mettelbachfall in the Kesseltobel. Then (2 M.) — 

8M. Muotathal (1995' ; pop. 2015; *Kreuz; *Hirsch, moderate; 
Krone), the capital of the valley, with the Franciscan Nunnery of St. 
Joseph, founded in 1280, in which Suvoroff had his headquarters 
in 1799. Fine rock scenery and waterfalls in the vicinity. 

Ovek the Kinzig Pass to Altdorf, 8 hrs., fatiguing (guide unnecessary 
for adepts). After following the Pragel route for 1/4 hr., we diverge by 
the Muota bridge to the right, and ascend the Huri-Thal, passing the cha- 
lets of Lipplisbilhl and Wdngi," to the (3'/2 hrs.) Kinzig Pass (Kinzigkulm 
or Kihzerkulm; 6790'), lying to the S.E. of the Faulen (8150'). Limited view. 
Then a rapid descent to the Schachenthal (p. 64), Weiterschwanden, and 
Bilrglen (p. 103). The Kinzig Pass is famous for the masterly retreat of Suvo- 
roff, who, when cut off from the Lake of Lucerne by the French in Sept. 1799, 
marched with his army through the Schachenthal to the Muotathal, thence 
over the Pragel to Glarus, and lastly over the Panixer Pass to Coire. 

Through the Bisithal to Stachelbeeg, 10 hrs., rough but attractive; 
guide necessary. Good path (at first a road) through the narrow Bisithal, 
watered by the Muota, to (2>/2 hrs.) Schwarzenbach (3153'; "Inn), with a fine 
fall of the Muota; steep ascent thence to the left to the (3 hrs.) Alp Melehberg 
(6293'); then across the dreary Karrenalp between the Kirchberg and Faulen 
(p. 62), and down the Braunwaldalp to (4'/2 hrs.) Stachelberg. Another and 
more interesting route is the following (10-11 hrs., with guide). From Schwar- 
zenbach through wood and meadows (path generally well discernible) to the 
(l'A hr.) * Waldibachfall , the finest waterfall of Central Switzerland; ascend 
thence to the left to the (2 hrs.) Olatt Alp, with the pretty blue Olatten-See 
(6090'), surrounded by lofty cliffs, and to the (3 hrs.) topoftLe Ortstock or 
Silbenlock (890S 1 ; p. 62) ; descend via the Brdch-Alp to (3-3>/2 hrs.) Stachel- 
berg. — Or from the Waldibachfall we may ascend to the right over the 
WaldirAVp and Ruos-Alp to the (3 hrs.) Ruosalper Kulm (7125'), descend to 

Baedeker, Switzerland. 15th Edition. 5 



66 I. Route 21. KLONTHAL. 

the Kdtern-Alp, turn to the left, and Teach the (IV4 hr.) Balmalp on the 
Klauaen route (see p. 64). 

TO SlSIKON THROUGH THE KlEMENSTALDENTHAL and aCTOSS the KdtZtn- 

tag el (4888'), a footpath, 7 hrs. (unattractive). 

From Muotathal the path leads to the (Y2 hr.) foot of the Stal- 
den, and then ascends a toilsome and stony slope to (1 hr.) a group 
of houses (fine retrospect) ; V^ 1 - farther on, it crosses the Starzlen- 
bach by the Klosterberg Bridge, to the left, and ascends rapidly to 
the right to two houses ; 40 min., by a gate, we descend to the right, 
and cross the brook ; 10 min., a cross ; 5 min. , a cattle-shed in a 
picturesque valley; t^Yx., the Sennebrunnen, with excellent water ; 
5 min., refuge-hut ; 5 min., a cross. Lastly, almost level, to the (25 
min.) chalets on the marshy Fragel (5060' ; no view). 

The path, at first steep and stony, now descends to the ( 3 /,jhr.) 
chalets of the Schwellaui (4367'), and then leads through wood; 
'/.j hr., the Neuhuttli (4193 r ); here we turn to the right towards a 
large pine, where the pretty Klonthal and its lake become visible; 
i / 2 hr. Richisau (3590'; *Kurhaus, moderate, pens. 5-7 fr.), a rich 
green pasture with fine groups of trees, to the N. of which tower 
the Wannenstock (6495') and Ochsenkopf (7155'), and to the S. 
the furrowed slopes of the Silbem (7570'). 

The SchwannhShe , an old moraine, V2 M. to the E. of the Kurhaus, 
affords a beautiful view of the Klonsee, Schild, Glarnisch, and (to the S.) the 
Faulen. Attractive excursions may be made to the W. to the (2>/2 hrs.) Cross 
on the Saasberg (6225' ; pass to the Sihlthal and Einsiedeln) and to (5 min.) 
the Sihlseeli (5985'); to the S. to (3 hrs.) the top of the Silbern (7570'), 
with fossils and interesting furrowed slopes; to the Oldrniseh (see below; 
to the club-hut 4 hrs., thence to the top 3 hrs.); to the top of the Faulen 
(Orietet, 8953') via the Dreckloch-Alp in 6 hrs. (with guide), descending to 
(4hra.) Stachelberg (p. 62); to the N., via (1 hr.) the Schtceinalp to (3'/2 hrs.) 
ffinterwdggilhal (conip. p. 42); to the tup of the Ochsenkopf (7155' ; 372 hrs. ; 
with guide); to the top of the Scheye (5 hrs. ; seep. 60) via Ldngenegg, etc. 

From Richisau a road descends , across a fine open pasture, in 
full view of the imposing Glarnisch, to (1 hr.) Vorauen (2640'; 
* Hotel-Pension Klonthal, pens. 6^2 _ 7^/2 fr. ; Aebli's Inn, plain), 
beautifully situated in the Klonthal. 

The 'Glarnisch , the huge rocks of which bound the Klonthal on the 
S. side, one of the most picturesque mountains in Switzerland, culmin- 
ates in the Vorder- Oldrniseh (7648'), the Trenelisgdrtli or Miltler-Oldrnisch 
(9535'), the Ruchen- Glarnisch (9557'), and the Bachislock or Hinter-Qldrnisch 
(9583'). The ascent of the Ruchen-Glarnisch is not difficult for moun- 
taineers (T'/2 hrs. ; guide 25 fr. ; see p. 62). We cross the Richisauer and 
Rossmatter Klon, to the W. of Vnrauen, to the huts on (40 min.) the 
KISnstalden (3450' ; direct path hither from Richisau in 25 min.), then enter 
the narrow Rossmatter Thai (redmarks), pass the chalets of Kasern (3968') and 
Werben (4562'), and reach the (3'/ 2 hrs.) Club Hut in the Steinlhdli (6613'; 
•Inn in summer). We next ascend steep stony slopes and cross the Gldr- 
nischfirn, regain the rock, and reach the top in 3 hrs. from the hut. Grand 
view (panorama by Heim). — Ascent of the Vorder-Qldrtiisclt from Glarus, 
laborious (5'/2-G hrs.; cunip. p. lit). 

Ascent of the Scheye ( Wiggis) from Vorauen, see p. 00. Over the 
Scliweinalp Pass to the Wdggithal, see p. 42. 

The *K16nthal is a picturesque dale, with meadows of freshest 
green, carpeted with wild -flowers until late in the autumn, and 
thinly peopled. To the S. rise the almost perpendicular, precipices 



SERNFTHAL. J. Route 22. 67 

of the Qlamisch (see above). The pale-green i535rotfcai!er See (2640^, 
iy 2 M. from Vorauen, a lake 2 M. long and l /s M. broad, enhances 
the beauty of the valley, reflecting in calm weather the minutest 
furrows on the side of the Glarnisch. The rocks on the S. bank, 
near a waterfall, bear an inscription to the poet Salomon Oessner 
(d. 1787), who often spent the summer in a neighbouring chalet. 
The road skirts the N. bank. Boat across the lake in 50 min., 
iy 2 fr- ; a steam-launch also plies on the lake. At the (3i/ 3 M.) 
Seeruti, at the lower end of the lake (fine views), is a small Inn. 

Below the lake the valley narrows to a gorge, through which 
dashes the Lontsch, the discharge of the lake, forming a series of 
cascades amid grand rocky scenery down to its confluence with the 
Linth, below Netstall. To the left rise the huge perpendicular cliffs 
of the Wiggis Chain (p. 59). We obtain a pretty view of the deep 
ravine from the iron foot-bridge , which crosses to the Kohlgrubli 
Inn, beside a ( 3 / 4 hr.) guide-post, below the road to the right. 

The road divides at the ( 3 / 4 M.) Staldengarten inn. The left 
branch leads to (2M.) Netstall (p. 60), the right crosses the Lontsch 
to (1 M.) Biedern and (l'/4 M.) Glarus (p. 60). In descending we 
enjoy a fine view of the Fronalpstock, the Schild, and the Freiberge 
(between the Linth and Sernf valleys). 

22. From Glarus to Coire through the Sernf- Thai. 

Comp. Map, p. 60, 

16-18 hrs. Railway from Glarus to Schwanden, 17 min. ; Diligence 
(2 fr. 55 c.) from Schwanden to (9V2 M.) Elm twice daily in 2 3 /4 hrs. (descent, 
l 3 / 4 hr.). — From Elm to Flims over the Segnes Pass, 8-9 hrs., guide 20 fr. 
(p. 68); to Ilanz over the Panixer Pass, 9 hrs., guide 18 fr. — From Flims 
to Coire Diligence twice daily in 2 l /\ hrs. ; from Flims to Reichenau a plea- 
sant walk; thence to Coire driving is preferable (diligence 4 times daily). 

At Schwanden (p. 61), 3 M. to the S, of Glarus, the deep Sernf- 
Thal, or Klein-Thai , diverges to the left from the Linththal. The 
high-road gradually ascends the N. slope. Beyond (l 1 ^ M.) Wart 
is a pretty waterfall on the left; fine retrospective view of the 
Glarnisch. 3 M. Engi (2540'; pop. 1164; *Sonne), with cotton- 
mills, at the mouth of the narrow Milhlebach-Thal. (Passage of 
the Widerstein-Furkel to the Murgthal, see p. 45.) The slate- 
quarries (Plattenberge) on the left bank of the Sernf are noted for 
their fossil fish. From (2 M.) Matt (2710') a path to the N. K. 
leads in 6 hrs. through the Krauchthal and over the Bieseten Pass 
(6644') to Weisstannen (p. 46). 

3 M. (9'/ 2 M. from Schwanden) Elm (3215' ; J. Elmer ; Zentner). 
the highest village in the valley, in a fine basin encircled by snow- 
mountains, was partly destroyed by a landslip on 11th Sept., 1881. 

From the Tichingelberg, above the slate -quarries to the S.E. of the 
village, between the Risikopf and the Oelbe Kopf, a rock about 1300' in 
breadth, 320' in thickness, and 800' in height, became detached and was 
precipitated over a steep slope, with a gradient of about 70:100, into the 
valley 1480' below, covering it for a distance of 1 M. with an enormous 

5* 



68 Route 22. SEGNES PASS. 

mass of debris, upwards of 225 acres in area. Nearly the whole Uhter- 
thai, the garden of the village, with 22 dwelling-houses and 57 other 
buildings, was destroyed ; 111 persons perished ; and the damage was 
estimated at nearly D/2 million fr. The church bears a memorial tablet 
recording the names of the deceased. 

Ascents (for experts only; guides Heinrich and Peter Elmer, see p. 62). 
The Kdrpfstock (9180') , by the Wichlen-Alp, 6 hrs. (laborious, but, with 
good guides, free from danger). — The Vorab (9925'), by the Sether Furka 
(see below), 7-8 hrs. — The Hausstock (10,340'), the Piz Segnet (10,230'), 
and the Saurenstock (10,0250 are more difficult. 

Passes. To Flims ovek the Segnes Pass, 8 his., fatiguing, but 
interesting (guide, 18 fr., necessary). We cross the Sernf, amidst the re- 
mains of the landslip , and the Raminbach , and ascend the wild gorge 
of the Tschingelnbach, which forms several picturesque falls, to the Tschin- 
geln-Alp. We then mount steep grassy and stony slopes to the (5 hrs.) 
Segnes Pass (8615') , lying to the S.W. of the Piz Segnes (10,230'). To 
the right rise the jagged Tschingelhbrner or Mannen (9452 ') , perforated by 
the Martinsloch (8648'), a hole through which the sun shines on the 
church of Elm twice a year. We descend over the short but steep Segnes 
Glacier (easy except in the absence of snow, when rope and ice-axe are 
useful), then by a steep path, which afterwards improves, to the Flimier 
Alpen, and thence past a pretty waterfall (to the left the huge Flimier 
Stein, p. 361) to (3 hrs.) Flims (p. 361). 

To Ilanz ovek the Panixek Pass, 9 hrs. (guide 18 fr.), fatiguing 
and unattractive, but historically famous for Suvoroffs retreat of 5th-10th 
Oct., 1799 (comp. p. 65). A road ascends on the left bank of the Sernf 
from Elm by Hinter- Steinibach to the (40 min.) Erbserbrilcke; 25 min. farther 
up, at Wallenbrugg, we cross the Sernf and ascend by a steep, rugged path 
to the chalets of the Jatzalp (Im Loch , 4822'; Ober-Staffel , 5587'). We 
next cross the Walenboden, pass the Rinkenkopf, traverse a patch of snow 
(with a small tarn on the left), and reach the (3'/2 hrs.) Fanixer Pass 
(C'uolm da Pignieu; 7907'), with its refuge-hut. On the right rises the 
Hausstock (see above), with the Meer Glacier. Descent over the Meer-Alp and 
the wild Ranasca-Alp to (2'/2 hrs.) Panix (4334'; Panixer Pass Inn), and via 
Ruts to (2 hrs.) Ilanz (p. 361). — Another route, fatiguing and uninteresting, 
crosses the Bether Furka (8565'). It diverges from the Panix route to the 
left, by the tarn above mentioned, and ascends steeply to the pass. De- 
scent by the Ruscheiner Alp and the Sether Tobel to (9 hrs.) Ilanz (p. 361). 

To Weisstannen by the Foo Pass, 7 hrs., rather rough (guide 15 fr.). 
We ascend the right bank of the Raminbach, chiefly through wood, to the 
Ramin-Alp, and past the chalets of Matt (6179'J, to the (4 hrs.) Foo Pass, 
or Eamin Pass (7333'); then descend by the Foo- Alp and the Unter-Siez- 
Alp (4377') to the Seez Valley and (3 hrs.) Weisstannen (p. 46 ; 3 hrs. from Mels). 

To Vattis over the Hakdona Pass, 10-11 hrs., difficult, and rarely 
traversed (guide 30 fr.). From the Segnes Pass (see above) we clamber 
round the abrupt W. side of the Piz Segnes to the Sauren Glacier and 
the Sardona Pass (about 9680'), between the Piz Segnes and the Saurenstock 
I 10,025'). Very steep descent to the Segnes Glacier, which we cross to the 
Sardona Glacier; then a rugged descent to the Sardona- Alp (5735'), in the 
Kalfeuser Thai, 3 hrs. above Vattis (p. 346). — Another difficult and labo- 
rious pass from Elm to Viittis (9-10 hrs.) is the Scheibe Pass, between the 
Saurenstock and the Grosse Scheibe (9620'). — Ovek the Mittenthalek 
Grat, 10-llhrs. to Viittis, less difficult, but rough and fatiguing (guide25fr.). 
From the (4 hrs.) Foo Pass (see above) we first descend to the Obere 
Foo-Alp, then ascend to the ri^ht through the Ifitttenthal to the basin of 
the Haibiltzli, with a small tarn (7693'), and thence to the. (3 hrs.) Mutten- 
thaler Grat (about 8200'). Kough descent over the Malanser Alp to (2 hrs.) 
St. Martin (1433') in the Kalfeuser Thai and (2 hrs.) Vattis (p. 346). 

To Lintiithal, by the Richetli Pass (7-1 28'), 8 hrs., not difficult ; ""View 
of the ll.iusstoek, Vorab, and Gliirnisch. Descent by the [hiruachthal. 



II. LAKE OF LUCERNE AND ENVIRONS. 
THE ST. GOTTHARD. 



23. From Zurich to Zug and Lucerne 70 

i. Railway Journey 70 

Excursions from Zug : Felsenegg and Schonfels. Stalac- 
tite Caverns in the Holle, 71. — Schonbrunn. Menzingen. 
Agerithal, 72. 
ii. From Zurich to Zug via Horgen 73 

24. Lucerne 73 

From Lucerne to Kriens and Herrgottswald, 77. 

25. Lake of Lucerne 78 

Weissenfluh. From Beckenried to Seeliaberg. Buochser 
Horn. Hochfluh. Vitznauer Stock, 80. — Kurhaus Seelis- 
berg. Seelisberger Kulm, 81. — Morschach, Axenfels, 
Axenstein, 82. — Stoos, Frohnalpstock, 83. — Riemen- 
staldenthal. Bophaien. Roaastock. Kaiaeratock, 84. — 
Isenthal. Uri-Bothstock, 85. 

26. TheRigi . 85 

27. From Lucerne to Alpnach-Stad. Pilatus 92 

Biirgenatock. From Stanaatad to Sarnen, 93. 

28. From Zug and Lucerne to Arth 95 

i. From Zug to Arth. Lake of Zug 95 

ii. From Lucerne to Kiissnacht and Arth 96 

St. Michaelakreuz, 97. 

29. From Zurich via Wadensweil to Arth-Goldau. From 
Biberbriicke to Einsiedeln 97 

Feusisberg. Hutten. Gottschalkenberg, 97. — From Pfaf- 
fikon to Einsiedeln; the Etzel, 98. — From Einsiedeln 
to Schwyz over the Hacken or the Iberger Egg. The 
Schlagstrasse, 99. — Eossberg, 100. 

30. From Lucerne to Bellinzona. St. Gotthard Railway . 100 

Goldau Landslip, 101. — The Mythen, 101. — Schachen- 
thal; Rossatock; Belmistock. Erstfelder Thai, 103. — 
Bristenstock ; Hoher Faulen. The.St. Gotthard Road from 
Amsteg to Goschenen, 104. — Pizzo Rotondo ; Passo dei 
Sassi. Val Piora; Taneda, etc., 106, 107. 

31. From Goschenen to Airolo over the St. Gotthard . . 109 

The Goschenen Valley. Passes to Realp, the Trift Glacier, 
and the Steinalp. The Fleckistock, 109. — The Badus 
or Six Madun. Gurschenstock and Gamsstock, 111. — 
Lucendro Lake, 112. — The Pizzo Centrale ; Prosa ; 
Fibbia ; Piz Lucendro ; Pizzo Rotondo ; Sorescia, 112. — 
From the St. Gotthard over the Orsino Pass to Realp, and 
over the Lecki Pass to the Furka, 113. 

32. The MaderaneT Thai 113 

Hiifi Glacier, 114. — Diissistock; Oberalpstock, etc., 

115. — Clariden Pass; Hiifi Pass; Kammlilucke; Ruch- 
kehlen Pass ; Scheerhorn-Griggeli Pass ; Brunni Pass, 115. 

33. From Goschenen to the Rhone Glacier. The Furka . 116 

From Realp over the Cavanna Pass to the Val Bedretto, 

116. — Tiefengletscher; Tiefensattel ; Winterlucke, 117. 
— Furkahorn; Muttenhorn; Galenstock. From the Furka 
over the Nagelisgratli to the GrimselHospice, 117. 



70 II. Route 23. URDORF. 



34. From Lucerne to Altdorf via Stans and Engelberg. 

The SurSnen Pass 118 

Stanser Horn, 118. — Niederrickenbach, 119. — Excur 
sions from Engelberg: Oberschwand; Tatschbach Fall; 
Rigithalstock ; Engelberg - Rothstock ; Uri - Rothstock ; 
Schlossberg; Titlis; Spannort, 120, 121. — From Engel- 
berg to Erstfeld over the Spannortjoch or the Schloss- 
berg-Liicke; to Wasen over the Grassen Pass; to the 
Steinalp over the Wendenjoch, 121. 

35. From Lucerne over the Briinig to Meiringen and 
Brienz (Interlaken) 122 

The Melchthal ; over the Storregg or the Juchli to 
Engelberg ; Nunalphorn ; Hutstock. Excursions from] 
Melchsee-Frutt, 123. — The Schwendi-Kaltbad, 123. — 
Giswiler Stock, 124. — From Briinig to Meiringen, 125. 

36. From Meiringen to Engelberg. Engstlen-Alp. Joch 
Pass 125 

From the Engstlenalp to Melchsee-Frutt. Schafberg, 
Graustock, etc. Ascent of the Titlis from the Engstlen- 
alp. From the Engstlenalp over the Siitteli to the Gad- 
menthal, 126. 

37. From Meiringen to "Wasen. Susten Pass 127 

Triftthal. Excursions from the Trifthvitte (Dammastock, 
etc.); over the Triftlimmi to the Rhone Glacier; Furt- 
wang-Sattel and Steinlimmi, 127, 128. — From the 
Stein Inn over the Sustenlimmi or the Thierberglimmi 
to the Goscheneralp; Brunnenstock, 128. 

38. From Lucerne to Bern. Entlebuch. Emmenthal . . 129 

Schwarzenberg; Bramegg Route ; Schimberg Bad, 129. 
— From Schupfheim to Sorenberg. The Napf, 130. — 
Riittihubelbad, 131. 

39. From Lucerne to Lenzburg (Aarau). The 'Seethal' 
Railway 131 

Excursions from Hochdorf: Hohenrain; Horben; Ober- 
reinach, etc., 131. — From Hitzkirch to Wohlen by 
Fahrwangen, 132. — From Beinwyl to Reinach and 
Menzikon; Homberg, 132. — From Boniswyl to Fahr- 
wangen; Brestenberg, 132. 



23. From Zurich to Zug and Lucerne. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 38, 78. 

i. Railway Journey. 

411/2 M. Railway to Zug in I1/2 hr. (4fr. 5, 2 fr. 85, 2 fr. 5 c); to 
Lucerne in 2y 3 hrs. (7 fr-, 4fr. 90, 3 fr. 50 c. 

On leaving the station the train crosses the Sihl, and at (2>/ 2 M.) 
Altstetten diverges from the Bale line (p. 21). To the left rises the 
long Vetliberg (p. 38), which the line skirts in a wide curve. To 
the right the pretty valley of the Limmat. 5 J / 2 M. Vrdorf; 8 M. 
Birmensdorf. We now follow the pleasant Reppisch-Thal. To the 
left the hotel on the Uetliberg. The train ascends through a tunnel 
under the Ettenberg to (12 M.) Bonstetten-Wettschwyl (1805'). To 
the right the Bernese Alps and Pilatus; and to the left, farther on, 



ZUG. II. Route 23. 71 

the Engelberg Alps, with the Uri-Rothstock and the Titlis, become 
visible. 14 M. Hedingen; 15V2 M - Affoltern (Lowe'). To the left 
rises the Aeugster Berg (2723'), at the foot of which lie Aeugst and 
the Baths of Wengi. — 18 M. Mettmenstetten (1550'). 

Diligence 3 times daily in 55 min. to Hausen (1980'; 'Lowe), at the 
W. base of the Albis (p. 39)-, near it is the excellent hydropathic Kurhaus 
of Albisbrunn (Dr. Paravicini). Near Kappel, D/2 M. to the S., on the road 
to Baar (p. 73), Zwingli was slain on 11th Oct. 1531, in battle against the 
Rom. Cath. cantons (comp. p. 36). 

20 M. Knonau (Adler). Near Zug we cross the Lorze, which 
descends from the Ageri-See (p. 72). 

24 1 /-2M. Zug. — Hotels: "Hirschen, R., L., & A. 3, D., incl. wine, 3'/2, 
pens. 5-7 fr. ; "Ochsen; "Lowen, on the lake, R., L., & A. 2!/2, B. 1 fr. 20c, 
good beer in the restaurant; "Hotel Bahnhof , with garden -restaurant; 
Hotel Rigi, near the station, moderate; Falken; Bellevue; Widder ; "Pens. 
Guggithal, on the road to Felsenegg ; Restaurant Aklin, near the Zeitthurm. 

Zug (1385') , the capital of the smallest Swiss canton , with 
5161 inhab., lies on the lake of that name. The lower town, part 
of which was undermined by the lake on July 5th, 1887, has fine 
Quays, commanding beautiful views of the lake, the Rigi, Pilatus, 
and the Bernese Alps. The upper and old towns still retain a quaint 
and mediaeval appearance, with their walls, towers, and substantial 
mansions. In the Old Rathhaus (now a restaurant) is a handsome 
late-Gothic apartment containing a museum of wood-carvings and 
other antiquities of Zug (adm. 50 c). The Gothic Church of St. 
Oswald (15th cent.) contains a Last Judgment by P. Deschwanden, 
and the Church of the Capuchins an Entombment by Calvaert. In 
the Arsenal are preserved ancient captured weapons and flags, and 
a scarf stained with the blood of its bearer Peter Collin, who fell at 
Arbedo in 1422. Handsome new Oovernment Buildings in the 
Renaissance style. Well-equipped Fish-breeding Ponds. Above the 
town are the handsome educational institutions of Minerva and St. 
Michael, and the nunnery of Maria Opferung. On the (8/4 M.) 
Rosenberg (Restaurant) is the interesting Swiss Museum of Bee- 
Culture. 

On the W. slope of the Zuger Berg, l'/s hr. from Zug (good road ; om- 
nibus from the station at 11 and 6 ; fare 2V2 fr.), are the "Hotel Felsenegg 
(3085'; pens. 7-8 fr.; English Church Service in summer), with a fine view 
towards the W. and (5 min. to the N.) the "Kurhaus Schonfels (R. 2-3, pens. 
7'/2-9 fr.), with hydropathic estab. and pleasant grounds, also commanding 
a beautiful view. This spot is recommended for a prolonged stay; pleasant 
wood-walks. The (1/4 hr.) "Hochwacht (3250'), l /i M. to the N.E., commands 
a complete survey of the Alpine chain; below us, to the E., lies the Lake 
of Ageri (p. 72). — Pretty walks also to the (20 min.) Hungigiitsch (2400'; 
view interrupted by trees) and the O/2 hr.) Horbachgiilsch (3070'), which 
affords a charming view of the lakes of Zug and Lucerne and the Rigi. — 
The ascent of the (2'/2 hrs.) Wildspitz {Rossberg, p. 100) is an attractive 
expedition, over mountain-pastures with rich flora. 

In the wild valley of the Lorze, to the N.W. of zug, are the in- 
teresting 'Stalactite Caverns in the Holle, to which a road leads via, Baar 
(p. 73) in l'/2 hr. (carriage with one horse from Zug. and hack, 5-7 fr. and 
fee), and a footpath (1 hr.) via. Thalacker (road to Ageri, see below) and 
the Tobel-Brilche. The caverns, at one time full of water, were made ac- 
cessible in 1887 and are open from Easter Monday to Oct, 15th. They 



72 II. Route 23. ROTHKREUZ. 

contain magnificent stalactite formations of various shapes, besides 
stalagmites. Admission, 1 fr. ; guide and key at the (>/« M.) Restaurant 
BSll (trout). From the caverns a route leads via the Tobel-Briicke to 
(2 M.) Schonbrunn (see below). 

On the Menzin^en hills above the Lorze, 4 1 /-.. M. to the E. of Zug 
(diligence twice daily, 1 fr. 35, coupe 1 1 fr. 60c.) and ] /jM. from the diligence 
station of Edlibach, is Dr. Hegglin's well managed "Schonbrunn Hy- 
dropathic (2215 1 ; board with baths 7, R. D/2-4 fr.), with sunny terrace and 
forest-walks, much frequented by French visitors. The view from the 
chapel (2230') extends as far as the Jura. — About 6 M. to the E. of Zug 
(diligence twice daily in l'/4hr.) is the prettily situated village of Men 
zingen (2635'; "Lowe; Hirsch) with a large convent-school for girls; and 
1 M. farther on, beyond the Edlibach is the "Pern. Schwandegg (2770'; pens. 
i l /r5 fr.), with pine-cone and other baths. The summit of the Schaandegg- 
OiiUch commands a view of the Lake of Zurich and of the Sentis range. 

Agerithal. A road (diligence to Oberageri twice daily in 2hrs.) ascends 
through a fruitful district via. Thalacker (route at the tend to the left ti> 
Schonbrunn, the Holle caverns, and Menzingen, see above) and Inkenberg t<> 
(3 M.) Allenwinden (2320'). Thence it descends into the valley of the winding 
Lorze (on a hill on the other side of the stream is the nunnery of Gubel) 
to (i [ l2M.)Jfeuageri, and past Miihlebach, with its large cotton factories, to 
(IV2 M.) TJnter&geri {"Agerihof; Briicke; Pott), a handsome industrial vill- 
age with a new Gothic church, on the Ageriiee (see below). The road 
skirts the lake, flanked by pretty villas, to (f/2 M.) the pleasant mountain 
village of Oberageri ("Lowe; Ochs). In a picturesque situation on the 
lake, between Unterageri and Oberageri, is Dr. Hiirlimann's private Eot- 
pital for children ; and on the hill, farther back, is a Sanitarium for scrof- 
ulous children, erected by the Zurich benevolent society. — Excursions 
from Unterageri through the Hiirithal and via the Rossberg-Alpt to the 
(2'/2 hrs.) summit of the Wildspitz (Rostberg , see p. 100); from Ober- 
ageri to the (IV2 hr.) Oottschalkenberg (p. 97), etc. 

On the pretty Agerisee (2380'; 3'/2 M. in length) a steamboat plies 4 
times daily from Unterageri in 3/ 4 hr. past the stations of Oberageri, Landli, 
and Eierhals, to Morgarten, at the E. extremity; thence to the rail, station 
of Sattel-Ageri (p. 99) omnibus in 50 min. Stat. Eierhals (Pension) com- 
mands a picturesque "View, comprising the Uri-Rothstock, Kninte , etc. 
Between Eierhals and Morgarten are the houses of Haselmatt, where on 
16th Nov., 1315, the Confederates in the Battle, of Morgarten wnn their 
first victory over their Hapsburg oppressors commanded by Duke Leopold of 
Austria. A memorial chapel, containing a representation of the battle, 
was erected at St. Jakob, 1 M. from the S.E. end of the lake and 3 /i M. 
from Sattel, where a commemoration service is held annually on the day 
of the battle. 

The train backs out of the station and skirts the flat N. bank of 
the Lake of Zug (p. 95), crosses the Lorze near its influx into the 
lake, and recrosses it at its efflux near (27 !/ 2 M.) Cham ( *Rabe), a vill- 
age with a slenderzinc-coveredchureh-towerandalarge manufactory 
of condensed milk. Pretty view of the lake to the left ; on the hill 
above Zug are the summer-resorts just mentioned; in the middle 
rises the Rigi; and to the right are the Stanser Horn, the Kngelberg 
Alps, and Pilatus. Beyond (31 M.) Rothkreuz (1410'; Rail. Re- 
staurant), the junction of the St. Gotthard (p. 100) and the Muri and 
Aarau (p. 22) lines, we entrr the valley of tin; Reuss. 33 M. Ciini- 
kon. Through an opening to the left we survey the Rigi, from the 
Kulm to the Rothstuck. 37 M. Ebikon. To the right rises the wooded 
Hundsriicken. The train skirts the Rothsee, l'/.iM. long, and crosses 
the Reuss by a bridge 178 yds. long. The line now unites with the 



LUCERNE. //. Route 24. 73 

Swiss Central (p. 21) and the Lucerne and Bern lines (p. 129), and 
finally passes through a tunnel under the Outsch (p. 77). 
41 y 2 M. Lucerne, see below. 

ii. From Zurich to Zug via Horgen. 

Railway from Zurich to (11 31.) Horgen in '/z hr- (steamer in lV4hr., 
see p. 39). Post Omnibus dally (8.45 a. m.) from Horgen to (12'/2 M.) Zug 
in 2 his. 35 min. (2 fr. 80c); one-horse carr. in 2 hrs., 12 fr. 

To Horgen (1394'), see p. 41. The road ascends in windings, 
passing the Kurhaus Bocken, to (3 M.) Hauriithi, where, by the 
finger-post, it joins the road from "Wadensweil. Several fine views 
of the lake, the Sentis, Speer, Curfirsten, and the Glarus Mts. 
About Y2 M. farther on we reach the saddle of the hill and the 
(1 M.) Inn Zum Morgenthal, at Hirzel (2245'). We then descend 
gradually into the valley of the Sihl, which here separates the 
cantons of Zurich and Zug, to the (2 M.) covered Sihl-Brucke 
(1745'; *Krone, good wine). 

Pedestrians should take the road from Horgen over the Horger Egg 
to the Sihl-Brucke (p/2 M.), which shortens the route by 2 M., and affords 
far finer views. Near (2 M.) Wydenbach rises the 'Zimmerberg (2535')) 
l /4 hr. to the right, with a beautiful view of the Lake of Zurich, the sombre 
valley of the Sihl, the Lake of Zug, the Alps, and particularly the Mythen, 
the Rigi, and Pilatus. About 3/ 4 M. beyond Wydenbach the road reaches the 
Hirzelhbhe (2415'; Inn), its highest point, with another fine prospect. We 
join the high-road near the Sihl-Brucke. 

The Zug road leads through an undulating tract, passing on 
the left the wooded hill of the Baarburg (2180'). Beyond the wood 
(2 M.) we obtain a view of Baar, the Lake of Zug, the Eigi, and 
Pilatus. To the left, */* M. farther on, on the Lorze, which we cross, 
is a large cotton-factory. Near (I74M.) Baar (1465'; Lindenhof, 
moderate; Krone; Schwert; Rossli), a straggling village with 4065 
inhabitants, is the hamlet of Blickenstorf, with the house in which 
Hans Waldmann burgomaster of Zurich and conqueror of Charles the 
Bold at Murten, was born. — About 2 M. to the E., in the prettily 
wooded valley of the Lorze, are the curious Stalactite Caverns in the 
Holle (p. 71). 

From Baar we continue straight on to (2 J /2 M.) Zug, see p. 71. 

24. Lucerne. 

Railway Station (PI. t), E, 4) on the left bank of the lake; Bbonig 
Station (PI. E, 4) '/t M. farther to the E. (Restaurants at both). The 
steamboats to Fliielen and Alpnach generally touch on the left bank after 
leaving the Schweizerhof Quay; those from Fluelen touch first here, and 
then at the quay. 

Hotels. -Schweizerhof (PI. a; D, E, 2), a spacious hotel with two 
'dependances', and 'Luzerner Hof (PI. b; E, 2), both on the Schweizerhof 
Quay, R., L., & A. from 5, B. l>/ 2 , D. 4V2-5, music »/*, pens. incl. R. 10-12 fr. ; 
'Hotel National (PI. c; E, F, 2), a sumptuous building on the Quai 
National, R., L., & A. from 6, D. 5 fr. ; "Hotel Beaurivage (PI. d ; F, 2) and 
"Hotel di l'Europe, both on the lake, in the Halden-Strasse ; "Englischek 
Hof (PI. e); 'Hotel du Cyone (PI. f), R., L., & A. 4'/ 2 -6, D. 4'/2fr. ; 'Hotel 
do Rigi (PI. g) R., L., & A. 3, B. I1/2, D. 3fr.; Hotel Central, Halden- 



74 II. Route 24. LUCERNE. Pensions. 

strasse (these four on the lake, on the right bank); 'Hotel dd Lac (PI. n; 
D, 4), on the left hank of the Reuss, with garden and hath-house, R., 
L., <ft A. from 3Vs, D., inel. wine, 31/2, pens. 772-9 fr. ; 'Hotel St. Gott- 
hard (PI. i), with restaurant, near the station, R., L., & A. 372-5, B. IV2, 

D. 4 fr. (no gratuities); "Hotel Victoria (PI. u; C, 4), R., L., & A. 3-472, 
Lunch 3, D. 4, pens, from 71/2 fr. ; -Wage (Balances, PI. k ; C, 3), near 
the third bridge over the Reuas, R. , L. and A. 3-4, B. l'/2, D. 372, pens. 
7-9 fr. — Less expensive: 'Engel (PI. 1; B, 3), R. & A. 2V», D. 3 fr. ; 
Adlek (PI. m; C, 3), R. 2>/2-3 fr., B. 1 fr. 20 c. ; 'Weisses Rossli (PI. n; 
C, 3), R. & A. 21/2, B. IV4, D. 3 fr. ; 'Hotel de la Poste (PI. ; C, 4) ; 
Hotel des Alpes (PI. p ; D, 2) , R. & A. 272-3 fr. ; "Hotel Dolder, Knppel- 
gasse22; 'Hotel Rutli; *Rebstock, beside the Hofkirche ; 'Hotel ROtli; 
Mohk (PI. u; D, 3); Hiesch (PI. q; C, 3); "Krone (PI. r; C, 3); 'Weisses 
Kreuz (PI. s; D, 3); 'Wilder Mann (PI. t; C, 4), R. & A. 2-27 2 fr., B. 

1 fr. 20 c; Raben ; Pfistern; Metzgern; Sonne, on the Reuss. 

Pensions. -Kaufmann; Kost-Hdfliger ; -Villa G'segnet-Matt; *Tivoli 
(6-10 fr.) ; "Belvedere (6-8 fr.) ; farther on, "Seeburg (steamboat-station ; p. 96). 
All these are on the Kiissnacht road, close to the lake. Faller, above Bean- 
rivage (from 6 fr.); *Neu-Bchweizerham (Eost), Felsberg (Pietzker), both 
loftily situated; "Alt-Schweizerhaut it Pension Anglaise; "H6l.-Pent. Gutsch 
(D. 372, pens. 8-10 fr.) and *H6t.-Pens. Wallis, on the Gutsch (p. 77), with 
charming view ; "Suter (pens. 5-6 fr.), on the hill of Gibraltar (PI. A, 3). Still 
higher, to the S. of Lucerne (from the Gutsch in '/« hr. ; brake from Lucerne 
thrice daily ; one-horse carr. 8 fr. ; comp. p. 77), "Kurhaus Sonnenberg (2560 1 ), 
with pleasant grounds and a fine view (7fr. per day). Pent.Stutz, see p. 93. 
— Furnished apartments at Frau Sigriift, Stadthofgebaude 41 J. 

Restaurants. Kursaal, see below; St. Goithard, near the station, see 
above; Cafi-Rest. Flora, Chalet, both at the station; Cafi du Thidtre and 
Alpenclub, on the Reuss; Cafe" du Lac; "Caft-Rett. Stadthof (PI. G, 2, 3), 
with garden (band frequently); Hungaria (Hungarian wines). — Beer. 
Spatenbrdu, at the Hotel Central (see above); LBwengarten, near the Lion 
Monument, with garden and a large concert hall; Rosengarten, Grendel- 
Strasse; Muth, at the Weggis Gate; Kreuz (see above); Seidenhof, on the 
left bank of the Reuss. — Confectioners. Huguenin, near the Stadthof; 
Gnandt, opposite the Hotel du Rigi. 

Kursaal on the Quai National (PI. F, 2), with reading, concert, and 
ball-rooms, restaurant, theatre, and garden. Band daily, 4-5 30 p.m. Ad- 
mission 50 c, for the day 1 fr. ; theatre (French operettas): stalls 4, pit 
and balcony 2 fr. 

Panorama of the French army entering Switzerland in Jan. 1871, by 

E. Castres, in the Lowenplatz (p. 76; adm. 1 fr.). 

Baths in the lake by the Quai National, above the Eursaal ; swim- 
ming 25, separate bath 50 c. — Lake-baths also near the Tivoli (see above). 
Baths in the Reuss below the town, at the Nollethor, with swimming-basin. 
Warm baths at the HCtel du Lao and at Felder-Lehmann's, Spreuer-Briicke. 

English Physician, Dr. Arthur Hill Bassall, Alpenstrasae 3. 

Post and Telegraph Office (PI. D, 4), near the railway station. — Steam- 
boats, see pp. 78, 92, 96. 

Cabs. For 1/4 hr. , 1-2 pers. 80 c, 3-4 pers. 1 fr. 20 c. (to or from the 
station 1 or 2 fr.); for 1/2 hr. 1 fr. 50 or 2 fr. 20 c ; for 1 hr., 2 fr. 50 or 
3fr. 60 c ; each box 30 c — To Seeburg U/ 2 or 2 fr. ; Drei Linden 2 or 
3 fr. ; Meggen 37 2 or 5 fr. ; Kiissnacht 672 or 9 fr. 

Rowing Boats, without boatman 50 c. per hr., with boatman 1-4 pers. 

2 fr., each additional person 50 c. more; with 2 boatmen 3 fr. per hr. 

English Church Service in the Protestant Church in summer. Presby- 
terian Service in the Maria-Hilf Church, Sun. at 11 and 6. American Epis- 
copal Church (Chritt Church), Museggstrasse, Sun. at^ll and 5. 

Official Enquiry Office by the Hotel du Cygne. 

Lucerne (1437'; pop. 22,000), the capital of the canton of 
that name which joined the Forest Cantons in 1332, lies pictur- 
esquely on the Lake of Lucerne or Yieriraldstatter See , at the 



Hofkirche. LUCERNE. II. Route 24. 75 

efflux of the Reuss. It is enclosed by -well-preserved walls with 
nine watch-towers, erected in 1385, while its amphitheatrical sit- 
uation surrounded by low hills, facing the Rigi and Pilatus and the 
snow-clad Alps of Uri and Engelberg, is of surpassing beauty. 

The clear, emerald-green Reuss issues from the lake with the 
swiftness of a torrent. Its banks are connected by four bridges. 
The highest, the iron Seebriicke (PI. D, 3), erected in 1869-70, 
600' long and 50' wide, crosses from the town to the railway-station 
and the new post-office, and affords an excellent view of the town 
and the lake. The two interesting mediaeval bridges, the Kapell- 
brucke (PI. D, 3) and the Spreuerbriicke or Muhlenbrucke (PI. B, 
C, 3), are both carried obliquely across the stream. Each is covered 
with a roof, which, in the case of the former, is painted with 154 
scenes from the lives of St. Leodegar and St. Mauritius, the patron- 
saints of Lucerne, and from Swiss history; and in the case of the 
latter, with a Dance of Death. The paintings all date from the 18th 
century. Adjoining the Kapellbrucke, in the middle of the river, 
rises the old Wasserthurm (PI. D , 3) , containing the admirably 
arranged Municipal Archives. According to tradition, this building 
was once a lighthouse (lucerna), and gave its name to the town. St. 
Peter's Chapel , on the N. bank, has four modern altarpieces by 
Deschwanden, a.native of Stans (p. 118). — The Reuss and the 
lake are enlivened with swans and flocks of half-tame waterfowl 
(Fulica atra; black, with white heads). 

The *Schweizerhof Quay (PI. D, E, 2), constructed in 1852, 
with its umbrageous avenue of chestnuts, extends in front of the 
large hotels along the N. bank of the lake and affords a delightful 
view. The stone indicator, on a projecting platform in the middle of 
the Schweizerhof Quay, points out the chief places in the environs. 

View. To the left the Rigi Group ; to the left is the Kulm with the 
hotels; on the saddle between the Kulm and the Rothstock is the Staffel 
Inn ; more to the right the Schild , the Dossen , and the isolated Vitznauer 
Stock. To the left of the Rigi , above the hills by the lake , rises the 
peak of the Rossberg; to the right of the Vitznauer Stock, in the distance, 
are the singularly indented peaks of the Ross- Stock Chain, the Clariden, the 
Todi and Kammlistock ; then the Meder-Bauen or Seelisberger Kulm and 
the Ober-Bauen ; nearer are the dark Biirgenstock, with its hotel , and the 
Buochser Horn; to the left and right of the latter tower the Engelberg Alps, 
the last to the right being the Titlis; farther to the right the Slanserhorn, 
the mountains of Kerns and Sachseln, and to the extreme right Pilatus. 

At the E. end of the quay is the handsome office of the administra- 
tion of the St. Gotthard Railway. — The continuation of the quay 
towards the E., on which is the Kursaal (p. 74), is known as the 
Quai National (PI. E, F, 2). 

On rising ground overlooking the quay is the *Hofkirche , or 
Stiftskirche (5f. Leodegar; PI. E, F, 2), said to have been founded 
in the 7th cent., restored in the 17th cent., with two slender towers 
erected about 1506. It contains a carved pulpit and stalls of the 
16th cent., two altars with gilded reliefs in carved wood, that on 
the N. side representing the death of the Virgin (15th cent.), a flue 



76 11. Route 2d. LUCERNE. Lion of Lucerne. 

crucifix by the Engelberg woodcarver Custer, and stained-glass win- 
dows. Organ concert daily 6.30-7.30 p. m. (1 ft.). In the arcades 
enclosing the old Churchyard are several frescoes by Deschwanden. 

We next follow the Alpen-Strasse and Ziiricher-Strasse, passing 
Meyer s Diorama of the Rigi and Pilatus (PI. D, E, 2; adm. 1 fr., 
interesting), the Panorama (p. 74), and Stauffef's Mu&eumof stuffed 
Alpine animals (PI. E, 1 ; adm. 1 fr.), and in 5 min. reach the famons 
*Lion of Lucerne (PI. E, 1), a most impressive work, executed in 1821 
to the memory of 26 officers and about 760 soldiers of the Swiss guard, 
who fell in the defence of the Tuileries on 10th Aug., 1792. The 
dying lion (28' in length), reclining in a grotto, transfixed by a broken 
lance, and sheltering the Bourbon lily with its paw, is hewn out 
of the natural sandstone rock after a model (exhibitedi n the adjoin- 
ing building) by the celebrated Danish sculptor Thorvaldsen. In- 
scription : Helvetiorum ftdei acvirtuti. Die X Aug., II et III Sept. 
1792. Haec sunt nomina eorum, qui ne sacramenti fidem fallerent, 
fortissime pugnantes ceciderunt. Duces XXVI. Solerti amicorum cura 
cladi superfuerunt Duces XVI. The rock which bears the inscrip- 
tion and names of the officers is overhung with trees and creepers. 
A spring at the top flows down on one side and forms a dark pool 
at the base, surrounded by trees and shrubs. — The neighbouring 
Chapel (inscription .- Invictis Pax) contains the escutcheons of the 
deceased officers, and the l Museum\ opposite the Lion, contains a 
painting of the last struggle of the Swiss guard in the Tuileries, 
and a diorama of the Jungfrau and of the Arth Rigi-Railway by 
Ernst Hodel (adm. 1 fr.). 

On the N. side of the monument is the entrance to the *Gletscher- 
garten (adm. 1 fr.), an interesting relic of the ice-period, with 32 
holes formed by whirlpools, of different sizes (the largest being 26' 
wide and 30' deep), well-preserved 'Gletscnerschliffe' , or rocks 
worn by the action of the ice, etc., discovered in 1872, and con- 
nected by means of steps and bridges. A kiosque here contains 
Pfyffer's Relief of Central Switzerland, on a scale of frfa inches to 
the mile, 23' long, and 13' wide; in another there is a small col- 
lection of relics from lake-dwellings, fossils, etc. Adjacent is a cafe*- 
restaurant. 

Many quaint and picturesque houses of the 16 -17th cent, 
are still to be seen in the crooked streets of the older parts of the 
town (PI. C, D, 3). — The ancient Bathhaus (PI. C, D, 3), in the 
corn-market, dates from 1519-1605. A fresco on the tower repre- 
sents the death of the Lucerne burgomaster Gundoldingen at the 
Battle of Sempach. 

On the ground-floor is the Historical Museum (adm. 9-6, 1 fr.). 
Room I. contains the armoury from the Arsenal, embracing weapons, 
flags, and trophies of the battles of the 14th cent, and of the Burgunrt- 
ian and Milanese wars; in the glass-case on the right are the coat of 
mail of Duke Leopold of Austria, and several banners captured by the 
townsmen at the battle of Sempach. A chased sword-handle ('Tellen 
schwerf, i.e. 'Tell's sword') of the 16th cent., and the uniforms of different 



Giitsch. LUCERNE. .II. Route 24. 11 

Swiss guards (in the middle of the large glass-case) should also be noticed. 
At the windows is exhibited a "Collection of Stained Glass of the 14-18th 
cent., including a series of armorial bearings of the 17th century. — Room II. 
contains the collections of the Historical Society, comprising relics of the 
pre-historic, Celtic-Roman, Germanic, and mediaeval periods; in glass-cases 
in the centre are Roman objects (bronze statue of Mercury; tripod) and 
the blue and white banner presented to Lucerne by Pope Julius II. — On 
the first floor is the Council Chamber, with beautiful 18th cent, carving 
on the ceiling and walls. In the ante-chamber are a number of portraits 
of magistrates, most of which are by Reinhart. 

An Art Exhibition takes place in the large hall by which we enter, 
from June 1st to Oct. 15th. 

The late-Gothic Fountain in the Weinmarkt (PI. 0, 3) dates 
from 1481. — In the vicinity, in the Hirschen-Platz, is the house 
of the goldsmith Bossard, adorned with frescoes. 

On the left bank of the Reuss is the Jesuit Church (PL 0, 4), 
built in 1667 in the rococo style , and the former Jesuit College, 
now the Government Building, with a picturesque court, the state 
archives, and a collection of coins. Opposite are the Museum (PI. 0,4), 
with the cantonal library of 80,000 vols, (including many rare books ; 
adm. 10-12), and the CivicLibrary, on the Reuss, containing a valu- 
able collection of works on Swiss history and copies of Holbein's 
frescoes on the Harter house, pulled down in 1824. 

The * Giitsch. (1722'), an eminence on the left bank of the 
Reuss, at the W. end of the town, reached on foot in 25 min., or 
by cable-train in 3 min. from the (1/2 M.) Giitsch station in the 
Untergrund (PI. A, 3 ; train every 1/4 hr. ; fare 30, return-ticket 
50 c), affords a splendid survey of the town , the lake, the Rigi, 
and the Alps of Uri, Unterwalden, and Engelberg, best from the 
view-tower (1920'; ascent 30 c). *Hotel and Restaurant, with 
wooded grounds, at the top (p. 74). 

A pretty walk through the woods leads from the Giitsch to the ( 3 /j hr.) 
Kurhaus Sonnenberg (p. 74), whence we may descend to (3/ 4 hr.) Kriens 
(see below). The steep direct footpath is not recommended. 

Another beautiful point in the neighbourhood of the town is the 
*Drei Linden (1810'), to which a new road leads in about 20 min. 
from the Hofkirche. We ascend to the right behind the church, in 
2 min. turn to the left, and finally ascend by an easy series of steps. 
The view embraces the environs of Lucerne and the Alps, with the 
Titlis in the middle and the Finsteraarhorn and Schreckhorn in 
the distance to the right. On the top of the hill, a series of houses 
and villas has recently been built. The return may be made to the 
N.W., past the Capuchin Convent on the Wesemlin, to the (i/^hr.) 
Gletschergarten (p. 76). — A similar view is obtained from the 
Allenwinden hill, reached in 20 min. from Meyer's Diorama (p. 75) 
by ascending to the W. via the Musegg-Strasse and the Bramberg- 
Strasse. 

From Lucerne to Keiens, 2 l /2 M., steam -tramway in 12 min., skirt- 
ing the brawling Krienbach. — Kriens (1670 1 ; "Pilatus; Linde), a considerable 
manufacturing village, is situated in a fertile valley at the N. foot of Mt. 
Filatus. To the S., on the slope, is the chateau of Schauensee (1950') ; to the 
N. the Sonnenberg (2560'; to the Kurhaus, 3 /t hr. ; see above). The road 



78 II. Routt 25. LAKE OF LUCERNE. 

ascends the valley beyond Kriens to the Renggbach, whence a footpath 
leads through wood to (l>/« hr.) Herrgottswald (2800 1 ; <B6l.-Petu. Haat), 
an inexpensive health-resort in a picturesque situation, and to (1 hr.) Eigen- 
thai (3375 1 ; Inn), another cheap health-resort (hence to Schwarzenberg, »/« hr. ; 
see p. 129). From Eigenthal a path ascends by the Riimligbach past the huts 
oiBuchiteg va&Rothstock, and finally mounts steeply to the left to (1V2-2 hrs.) 
the Briindlena Ip (4985'), with the little Pilatus Lake (generally dry in summer), 
where, according to an old tradition, Pontius Pilate drowned himself in 
the bitterness of his remorse. From this point the Widderfeld (6825') may 
he ascended in 1% hr. ; and a rough and not always distinct path leads 
round the slopes of the Widderfeld and Gemamattli and Ipast the Kaitelen- 
alp to the (IV2 hr.) H6tel Klimsenhom (p. 95). Neither expedition should 
he attempted without a guide. 

25. Lake of Lucerne. 

Comp. also Map, p. 86. 

Steamboat 6-7 times daily between Lucerne and FJiielen in 23/4 hrs., 
express in 2 l /4 hrs. (to Hertenstein 35 min., Weggis 45 min., Vitznau 1, 
Buochs IV4, Beckenried IV2, Gersau 13/4, Treib 2, Brunnen 2 hrs. 5 min., 
Kiitli 2 hrs. 12 min., Siaikon 2 hrs. 10 min., Isleten 2 hrs. 20 min., Bauen 

2 hrs. 25 min., Tells-Platte 2'/2, Fliielen 2 3 /4 hrs. ; the steamers do not all 
touch at Hertenstein, Buochs, Treib, Rutli, Sisikon, and Tells-Platte, 
while Bauen and Isleten are called at once a day only). Fare to Fliielen 

3 fr. 65 or 2 fr. 60 c. ; return-tickets available for two days at a fare and 
a half; season-tickets still cheaper. Trunk 40-80 c, including embarcation 
and landing. Sunday excursion trips from Lucerne to Fliielen and back, 
first class I 1 /* fr. All the steamers, except the express boat at 5.30 a.m., touch 
at the railway-station of Lucerne after leaving the quay (comp. p. 73). Good 
restaurants on board. Time-tables and maps of the lake to be had at the 
steamboat-offices gratis. 

The **Lake of Lucerne (1435'; Vierwaldstatter See, or 'Lake of 
the Four Forest Cantons'), which is hounded hy the 'forest cantons' 
of Uri, Schwyz, Unterwalden , and Lucerne, is unsurpassed in 
Switzerland, and even in Europe, in magnificence of scenery. Its 
beautiful banks are also intimately associated with those historical 
events and traditions which are so graphically depicted by Schiller 
in his William Tell. The lake is nearly cruciform in shape, the bay 
of Lucerne forming the head, the bays of Kiissnacht and Alpnach 
the arms, and those of Buochs and Uri the foot. Length from Lu- 
cerne to Fliielen 23 M. , from Alpnach to Kiissnacht at the ex- 
tremities of the arms i'l^M. ; width V2"^ 3 AM.; greatest depth 700'. 

The wind on the lake is apt to change with extraordinary rapidity, 
and the boatmen declare that it blows from a different quarter as each 
promontory is rounded. The most violent is the Fohn (S. wind), which some- 
times renders the S. bay of the lake impracticable for sailing or rowing-boats, 
and dangerous even for steamboats. In fine weather the Bise (N. wind) 
usually prevails on the bay of Uri from 10 a.m. to i p. m., and a gentle 
S. wind during the rest of the day. 

Soon after leaving Lucerne the steamer affords a strikingly pic- 
turesque view of the town, with its towers and battlements. To 
the left rises the Rigi, to the right Pilatus, and facing us the 
Biirgenstock, the Buochser Horn, and Stanser Horn; to the left of 
Pilatus, above the hills of Sachseln, the Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn, 
Monch, Eiger, and Jungfrau gradually become visible. The small 




j ^v... r * 4 Trunin W"" ' ' 



^ 



'nanus 



trAU, i 












'r>i'iL.~^i'""*cy'Si}r i 



if! . ,r . 









t nehnhiihi 1 !" ' J£, 










Siedt, 






stall 











... •ttcKft&V' . 



^ 



VVlsni 



V *f*5* 






K // Mvlrhtkul "•' 



AWIkm 



^ "rt 






>,..!■ i:,,„ r it, 




I '.'.'•i 




j \\'utU*ig«.i:it,J1afipt7:v»-riZ / hvt 




X lftUiftttl<e~'"~\ huh 






-^ A. ^ 



h»in Jeff. 



•> (?»■ 







.'-H,Wk/< 



It'*™ 1 / 1 



(BL-^y 






vduKlpiimtn. 



'fiillc'rtijlj/ 



.UMW 



\ 






■•#•«•. 



W ^kenned ' s ^,*i ^f*f""' t 



r.frW ; 



**¥: 






■Jv\ 



Srotvifcn' 



^'"^ff^i^^^i 



Iff ■hlm 3 ">, 



3£ngr' 



^0 



M 



^jcnstaMoi 








= KU.rmrti-r 1 '. 100.000 






VITZNATT. II. Route 25. 79 

promontory to the left, with a pinnacled villa , is the Meggenhorn. 
In front of it lies Altstad ('old shore') , an islet planted with poplars, 
on whichf ragments of an old custom-house are still to be seen. 

Beyond the Meggenhorn the lake of Kussnacht opens to the 
left, and the bay of Stansstad to the right, and we have now reach- 
ed the central part ('Kreuztrichter') of the cross formed by the lake. 
In the distance to the left, Kussnacht (p. 96) is visible ; in the fore- 
ground, Neu-Habsburg (p. 96). To the right the forest-clad Bilrgen- 
stock, with its hotel and railway, rises abruptly from the water (see 
p. 93). From this part of the lake the Pilatus (p. 94) is very strik- 
ing. Its barren, rugged peaks, seldom free from cloud or mist, 
frown grimly over the cheerful landscape, in marked contrast to the 
Bigi on the opposite bank , the lower slopes of which are covered 
with gardens , fruit-trees , and houses , and the upper with woods 
and green pastures. 

Beyond the promontory of Tanzenberg, in a small bay to the left, 
is the handsome *H6tel Schloss Hertenstein (pens. 7-10 fr. ; Teached 
either on foot through the park in 10 min., or by boat in 5 min.). 
Straight on in the distance, appears the double-peaked Scheerhorn 
(p. 115). Stat. Hertenstein (Pens. Hertenstein, dependance of the 
above) ; then — 

Weggifl. — *H6t.-Pens. do Lac, pens. 6-8 fr.; Lowe, R. 2, B. 1, 
D. 2'/2, pens. 6-7 fr.; *Post, at the steamboat-quay, small; 'Pens. Belve- 
deke & Villa Kohlek, with garden, pens. 8-10 fr. ; *Hot.-Pens. Belle- 
vue, finely situated s /4 M. to the W., 9-10 fr., adapted for a stay of some 
time; Pens.Baomen, 1 /tM. farther up (4 fr.) ; Hot.-Pens. Pakadies (5-8 fr.). 
On the lakeare several furnished villas which are let to families. 

Weggis, a thriving village in a very sheltered situation, is fre- 
quented, as a health-resort. — Bridle-path to the Rigi, see p. 88. 
A road to the N. leads in 3 /t hr. (or a path to the right, passing the 
church, in 1 hr.) to Oreppen (p. 96). Between the road and the path (which 
ascends for 1/4 hr. at the schoolhouse of Weggis) rises the Rigiblick, a 
grassy hill affording a fine survey of the lake. — Beautiful walk to the E., 
by the road skirting the lake, to the charmingly situated Lillzelau ('-Pens., 
5-6 fr.) and (3 M.) Vitznau. A new road leads on from Vitznau by the 
Obere Naie (fine View of the lake) to (1 hr.) Gersau and past the Kindli- 
mord Chapel (p. 81) to (1% hr.) Brunnen. 

Nearing Vitznau, we observe on the hillside to the left the rail- 
way-bridge across the Schnurtobel (p. 87), and high above it the 
Hotel Rigi-First (p. 91). 

Vitznau. — 'Hot. & Restabkant Rigibahn & Pension Kohlek, R., 
L., & A. 3V2, B. 1V«, pens. 6-7 fr.; -Hotel-Pension Rigi, R. 2-2Vs, D. 
3, pens. 5-7 fr. ; *H6tel-Pens. dd Pabc, '/3 M. to the W., with baths 
and extensive grounds, pens. 7-10 fr. ; Pension Zimmekmann zom Kreuz ; 
Pens.-Restadeant Feiedeichs ; furnished rooms at Zimmermann's at TJnter- 
wylen, 1 M. from the village, with fine view; beer at the hotels and at 
the Restaur, zur Alpenroie, 3 min. from the Rigi station, on the Gersau road. 

Vitznau, prettily situated at the base of the Vitznauer Stock 
(p. 80), is the terminus of the Bigi Railway (p. 86). High above 
the village rises the precipitous Rothfluh, with the Waldisbalm, a 
stalactite grotto 330 yds. long (difficult of access). 



80 II. Route ?5. GERSAU. Lake of 

On the S. slope of the Vitanauer Stock (bridle-path In 11/2 hr. from 
Vitznau, shady in the early morning) is the charmingly situated "Hotel- 
Fens. Weissenfluh (3100 ; pens, from 5'/2 fr.), frequented as a health resort, 
with beautiful view (finest from the Blumlismalt, 5 min. to the S.). Pretty 
walks to Aeusserurmi (3525'; 1/4 hr.): Oberurmi (3740'; >/2hr.); to the top 
of the "Vitznauer Stock (¥7101 ; V/ t hr., the last 1/2 hr.s teep); "Dotsen (5510'; 
21)rs.); etc. Descent from Weissenfluh to Gersau 50 min. (ascent l'/2 hr. ; 
path rough in places). 

Beyond Vitznau two roeky promontories, called the Nasen (noses), 
project far into the lake, apparently terminating it, the one being a 
spur of the Rigi, the other of the Biirgenstock (p. 93). To the left 
of the E. Nase, above the Pragel, the Glarnisch (p. 66) becomes 
visible. Beyond this strait the lake is called the Buochser See, from 
Buochs (*Krone; Hirsch; * Restaurant Kreuzgdrten), a village to the 
right , above which rise the Buochser Horn (see below) and the E. 
slopes of the Biirgenstock. Diligence to Stans (p. 118) thrice daily 
in 3 / 4 hr. Between Buochs and Beckenried (pretty walk of 3 / 4 hr.) 
extensive operations have been carried out to regulate the torrents 
descending from the Buochser Horn and the Schwalmis. — Farther 
on, on the S. bank, is — 

Beckenried, or Beggenried (*Sonne, pens, from 6 fr. ; *Mond, 
R. & B. 3, D. 3, pens. 6-8 fr.; *Nidwaldner Hof, pens. 6-8 fr. ; 
Adler), where the delegates from the Four Forest Cantons used to 
assemble. In front of the church rises a fine old walnut-tree. In 
the neighbourhood are several cement-factories and the picturesque 
Riseten Waterfall. 

One-horse carriage to Engelberg (p. 120) 18 fr., two-horse 30 fr. (from 
Buochs 17 or 28 fr.) ; to Stans 6 or 12, Stansstad 8 or 15, Alpnach 11 or 
18, Grafenort 12 or 20, Seelisberg 13 or 25, Schonegg 6 or 12 fr., and fee. 

From Beckenried to Seelisberg (2s/« hrs.). The road leads by the 
(1 hr.) charmingly situated "Pension Schoneck (water and whey-cure, board 
6 fr.) to ('A hr.) the village of Emmetten (2590'; Post, Engel, both well 
spoken of; Stern; pens, at all three 5 fr.); then through a somewhat 
monotonous dale between the Stulzberg and Niederbanen (p. 81) past the 
picturesque Seeli to the (l'/2 hr.) Kurhatts Seelisberg (p. 81). 

The Buochser Horn (6260 1 ) may be ascended in 3 l /2 hrs. from Becken- 
ried or Buochs (guide desirable; fine view). Descent to (l'/« hr.) Nitder- 
rickenbach (p. 119) and via Biiren to (2 hrs.) Slant (p. 118). 

On the opposite bank, on a fertile strip of land between the 
Vitznauer Stock and the Hochfluh, lies the pretty village of Gersau 
(*H6t.-Pens. Muller, R. 2-4, D. 31/2, pens. 7-10 fr. ; *Qersauer 
Hof, pens. 5-8 fr. ; *H6tel-Pens. Beau-Sejour, pens. from4fr.; 
Hirsch ; Sonne ; *Zur Jlge, plain ; furnished rooms at Mutter's, zur 
Sage; Eng. Ch. Service), in the midst of orchards, with its broad- 
eaved cottages scattered over the hillside. It was an independent 
canton down to 1817, when it was annexed to Canton Schwyz. The 
village, being protected from cold winds, is a resort of invalids. In 
the ravine behind it is a silk-spinning mill, and on the mountain 
above is the Rigi-Scheidegg Hntel (p. 92). 

The ascent of the Bigi-Hochfluh (0555'), from Gersau along the Oral 
and via the Zihlistock-Alp in 3-3'/2 hrs., is attractive. The last part of the 
route has been improved (see p. 92). From the Hochfluh to the Scheidegg. 
l'/2-2 hrs. — The Vitznauer Stock (47 fn') may be ascended in 2'/2 hrs. 



Lucerne. SEELISBERG. II. Route 25. 81 

from Gersau or Vitznau via Ober-Vrmi; the last */2 hour's climb is toilsome 
(comp. p. 80). — From Gersau to (4'/s M.) Brunnen (p. 82) a pleasant walk 
by the road skirting the lake. 

The chapel on the bank to the E. of Gersau is called Kind- 
limord ('infanticide'). To the E. rise the bare peaks of the two 
Mythen, at the base of which, 3 M. inland, lies Schwyz (p. 101); 
nearer is the church of Ingenbohl, and in the distance to the right 
the Achselberg or Achslenstock (7057'), with its crown of rocks re- 
sembling a castle. 

The steamer now crosses to Treib (Inn, rustic), in Canton Uri, at 
the foot of the precipitous Sonnenberg y the landing-place (telephone) 
for the village of Seelisberg (2628'; *H6t.-Pens. Bellevue, 5 fr. ; 
Pens. Aschwanden, behind the church, 5 fr., unpretending; Pens. 
Loweri) on the hill above, to which a road leads in I1/2 hr. through 
the orchards of Folligen (omnibus four times daily, up 2, down 
172 fr- ; one-horse carr. 5, two-horse 10, to the Kurhaus 6 or 12 fr., 
with fee of 2 fr.). The more direct footpath ascends to the left 
behind the inn (1 hr. ; stony but shady most of the way). By the 
Chapel of Maria-Sonnenberg (2770'), 12 min. from the church of 
Seelisberg, is the Pension OriMifp-l! ti. ), and 100 paces farther on 
is the little Hotel Mythenstein, beside which is the *Kurhaus 
Sonnenberg-Seelisberg (three houses, with 300 beds ; R. from 2, 
board 7-8, A. Y2 f'Oi a sheltered spot with pure mountain air, and 
a favourite health-resort. The terrace in front of the Kurhaus com- 
mands [a beautiful *View of the lake of Uri lying far below and of 
the surrounding mountains from the Mythen to the Uri-Rothstock. 

An attractive walk may be taken to (25 min.) the "Schwendifluh (2723'), 
by a route diverging to the left from the Beroldingen road (guide-post) 
about 1 M. to the S. of the Kurhaus. The view from the top of the 
perpendicular rocks, the Teufelsmiinster of Schiller ('Wilhelm Tell', Act IV., 
Sc. 1), is highly picturesque. 

Beautiful view from the Kanzeli (3303' ; in the wood to the right at the 
S. end of the Kurhaus, V2 hr.), over the lake and the plain as far as the 
Weissenstein. — About 20 min. to the S.W. of the Kurhaus lies the picturesque 
little Seelisberger See, or '■Seelf ('little lake', 2470'; with bath-house 50 c.) 
on the precipitous N. side of the *Niederbauen, or Seelisburger Kulm (6315'; 
guide 5 fr. and fee), which may be ascended from the Kurhaus in 3 l /2-4, 
from Beroldingen in 3, or from Emmetten in 3yz hrs. The two first routes 
are trying, and fit for adepts only (with guide). The ascent is easier 
from Emmetten (p. 80; experts may dispense with a guide). The shortest 
way (3 hrs.) leaving the village at the S. end, follows for a short distance 
the right bank of the Kohlthal brook, and then passes between some 
houses; after 20 min. we turn to the right and follow the tolerably good 
and distinct path towards the middle of the rocky arete at the W. end 
of the mountain. From the (l'/4 hr.) top we enjoy a fine view of the 
lake of Lucerne. Thence to the left along the ridge in l'/2 hr. to the 
summit. — Another route (V2 hr. longer) diverges to the left at the 
church (l 1 /* hr. from the Kurhaus) and ascends the Kohlthal to a gate 
near some chalets (1 hr.). After 2 min. more we cross the bridge to the 
left, and ascend by a good but steep zigzag path for 20 min., at first over 
a grassy slope, and then entering the wood to the left ; 7 min. , a bridge 
over a cleft; 10 min., a chalet (the path leading to the right of the hill 
with a cross). We ascend the slopes beyond the chalet to (>/« hr.) a gate; 
for 12 min. more we walk towards the Bauen, visible to the E., and then 
descend a little to a second chalet. Farther on we pass to the riyht of 

Baedeker, Switzerland. 15th Edition. 6 



82 //. Route 25. BRUNNEN. Lake of 

a stone stable on the hill; 40 min., third chalet (rustic tavern); lastly in 
zigzags, the best route being round the Bauen, to the pole on the top in 
40 min. more. Magnificent view of the entire Lake of Lucerne from Lu- 
cerne to Fliielen, of the Uri-Rothstock, the Bristenstock, Todi, Scheer- 
horn, Windgallen, etc., and of the Reussthal as far as Amsteg. The dis- 
tant view, however, is inferior to that from the Rigi. Early in the 
morning nearly the whole ascent from Emmetten is in shade. 

Those who desire to walk from Seelisberg to Bauen, on Lake Uri, and 
thence to cross the lake to Tell's Platte or Fliielen, go straight on from 
Sonnenberg (finger-post ; the road to the Schwendifluh leads to the left) to 
( 3 /« hr.) the little chateau of Beroldingen (beautiful view) and thence by a 
safe, though steep and rather uncomfortable path to 0/2 hr.) Bauen (Tell, 
poor). Boat from Bauen to Tellsplatte 2, Rutli 3, Fliielen 4 fr. (higher 
charges at the 'Tell'). — Path to the ('/ 2 hr.) Rutli, see p. 83. 

Opposite Treib, on the E. bank, lies the large village of — 

Brtumen. — "Waldstatter Hop, on the lake, with baths, R., L., 
* A. 3-5, D. 4, pens. 8-12 (in spring, 7-9 fr.); "Hot.-Pens. Aufdermauer au 
Parc, V* M. from the lake, pens. 8-10 fr. ; "Hot. -Pens. Adler, "Hot.-Pens. 
Hiksch, at the quay, pens. 7-10 fr. ; 'Hot. -Pens. Schweizekhof; Rossli, 
Brunnerhof, both near the quay, pens. 6 fr. ; *Hot.-Pens. Rigi, on the 
Gersau road, R. from 2, D. 3, pens. 5 fr. ; "Pens. <;utsch, with fine 
view, unpretending; "Pens, du Lac, '/i". to the W. of the village, with 
lake-baths, R. l 3 /t, board 5-5>/ 2 fr.; *Hot.-Pens. Bellevde (R. l>/2-2, D. 3, 
pens. 5-7 fr.) and "Pens. Mythenstein (6 fr.), both on the Axenstrasse, close 
to the lake; "Hotel-Pension St. Gotthakd, near the rail, station, with 
garden, pens. 5-7 fr. ; Hot. Bahnhof, Euw, Rosengarten, "Freihof, 'Sonne, 
Rutli, and others, plain (pens, about 5 fr.). Furnished roms at Villa Schoeck, 
above the Giitsch, etc. — Rett aur ant Zur Drosscl, on the quay. 

Rowing Boats : to Treib and back with one boatman 1 fr., with two 
2 fr.; Riitli (and back) 2i/ 2 or 4, Tellsplatte 3 or C, Riitli and Tellsplatte 
5 or 8 fr. 

Baths (warm and lake-baths) at the Waldstatterhof (lake bath and 
towel, 50 c). — Wood-carvings, photographs, books, newspapers, etc. at 
Leuthold's, by the steamboat-pier, and at Aufdermauer's, on the Axenstrasse. 

English Church Service at the Waldstatter Hof. 

Brunnen, the port of Canton Schwyz, a station on the St. Gott- 
hard Railway (p. 101), and one of the most beautiful places on the 
lake, is partly situated in a flat valley near the mouth of the 
Muota. The old Susthaus, or goods -magazine, is decorated with 
quaint frescoes. New Protestant Church on the Schwyz road, op- 
posite the railway station. 

The Giitsch (1700'; Pens., see above), a hill behind Brunnen, overlooks 
the two arms of the lake and the pretty valley of Schwyz. Shady walks 
in the neighbouring woods. — From Brunnen to Morschach a good car- 
riage-road (in shade in the morning) ascends in 1 hr. from the Axenstrasse. 
The shady footpath which diverges at the ( 3 /< M.) guide-post to the left 
cuts off a long curve. 50 min. "Hotel Axenfels (2065 1 ; K. from 2'/2, D. 4, 
pens. incl. R. from 7 fr.), with gardens and a fine view. A few min. farther 
on is the charmingly situated hamlet of Morschach ('-'155'; "I/St.- Pens. 
Frohnalp <f- Kurhavs Morschach, with garden and view, pens. incl. R. 6-8 fr.; 
"Pens. Beltscharf, 5 fr. ; Pens. Degenbalm, beautifully situated on an emin- 
ence 230' above the village, pens, from 6 fr.). The road forks immediately 
behind the Hotel F'rohnalp, the right branch leading via, O'ler-Sclibnenbtich 
to (4V2 M.) Schwyz, whiie the left branch ascends past the Pens. Rutliblict 
(line view) to (10 min.) the Grand Hotel Axenstein (2160'; R. 3-12, D. 4-!>, 
board 7 fr., less in June and Sept.; English Church Service), splendidly 
situated on the Briindli, with a magnificent "Survey of both arms of the 
lake. Large covered promenade and beautiful shady grounds close to the 
hotel, containing numerous erratic blocks and interesting traces of glacier- 
action. ^Strangers are admitted to the park, but if residing at the HGtel 



Lucerne. LAKE OF URL II. Route 25. 83 

Axenfels or at Morschach only by special permission. Besides the road, 
there is a path from the Giitsch to the hotel, for the most part in shade 
( 3 /i hr.). Omnibuses ran between the Axenstein Hotel and Brunnen (50 min., 
2 fr.; onehorse carr. 5, two-horse 10 fr.). 

The Stoos (4230'), the N. spur of the Frohnalp ("Kurhaus, well man- 
aged, R., L., & A. 3V2-4'/2, B. l'/4, pens 8-12, in June and Sept. 7-10 fr. ; 
Pent. Balmberg, 5-6 fr.), another good point of view (best from the Stoos- 
Aorn, 5 min. to the N.), with varied walks, is reached by a road (in shade 
in the morning for most of the way) from Morschach in l 3 /* hr. (carr. 
and pair from Brunnen in 2 l U hrs., 20 fr., there and back 25-90 fr., with 
one horse 15 fr. ; riding-horse 10, porter 5 fr.). — The Trohnalpstock 
(6305'; small •/»», ten beds), IV2 hr. to the S.W. of the Stoos, reached 
by a rough path (milk at a chalet halfway), affords a magnificent view, 
hardly inferior to that from the Rigi, of the Alps and of the entire Lake 
of Lucerne. — A footpath leads from the Stoos to (li/» hr.) Bied (p. 65) 
in the Muotathal, at first traversing meadows, but beyond the Stoosbach 
descending in steep zigzags through wood to the bridge over the Muota. 

Other excursions from Brunnen: by the St. Gotthard Railway to 
(12 min.) Schwyz - Seewen, and then by boat (in 25 min. from Seewen) 
to the island of Schwanau in the Lake of Lowerz (p. 101); to the Muota- 
thal as far as the (l 3 /4 hr.) Suvoroff Bridge (p. 65) , via Ingenbohl, 
Unter- and Ober-Schonenbuch, and back on the right bank via Ibach or 
Schwyz in 2 1 /* hrs. ; by the Axenstrasse (see below) to Tellsplatte and 
Fliielen (9 M. ; best by carr., the road being shadeless after 10 a.m.; to 
Fliielen with one horse 8 fr.) ; to the Kindlimord Chapel (p. 81) and Gersau 
(41/2 M. ; p. 80) ; to the Riitli (see below), and thence, or via Treib, to 
Seelisberg (p. 81); ascent of the Rigi (p. 85; 1 day); by the St. Gotthard 
Railway to Goschenen-Andermatt and back (R. 30; 1 day). 

At Brunnen begins the S. arm of the lake, called the Urner See 
or *Lake of Uri. The mountains now rise very abruptly , and the 
lake narrows. Lofty peaks , often snow - clad , peep through the 
gorges which open at intervals. By the sharp angle which juts into 
the lake from the W. bank rises the Mytenstein, a pyramid of 
rock, 80' high, bearing an inscription in huge gilded letters to the 
memory of Schiller, the 'Bard of Tell'. A little farther on, below 
Seelisberg (p. 81), and 8 min. above the lake, are the three springs 
of the Kutli, or Griitli, trickling from an artificial wall of stone, in 
the midst of an open space planted with trees. This spot, with the 
adjacent timber-built guard-house in the old Swiss style (refresh- 
ments) and pretty grounds, belongs to the Confederation. A block 
of granite, 10 ft. high, with bronze medallions, commemorates the 
author and the composer of the Song of Riitli. 

On this plateau, on the night of 7th Nov. , 1307, thirty-three men, from 
Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden, assembled and entered into a solemn league 
for the purpose of driving their oppressors from the soil. Tradition relates 
that these three fountains sprang up on the spot where the three confederates, 
Werner Stauffacher of Steinen in Schwyz, Erny (Arnold) an der ffalden of 
Melchthal in Unterwalden, and Walter Filrst of Attinghausen in Uri, stood 
when the oath was taken. — A good and shaded path ascends in l'/i hr. 
from the Riitli to the Kurhaus Seelisberg (p. 81). Small boat from Brun- 
nen to Riitli, see above; an excursion by boat (3-4 fr.) from Treib is also 
attractive. 

On the E. bank of the lake runs the almost level *Axenstrasse, 
leading from Brunnen to (9 M.) Fliielen, and remarkable for the 
boldness of its construction , being to a great extent hewn in the 
rock. Below, parallel with, or above the road, runs the St. Oott- 

6* 



84 II, Route '25. FLUELEN. Lake of 

hard Railway (p. 102), skirting the lake in a succession of tunnels 
and cuttings. 

About y 4 hr. after leaving Brunnen the steamer touches at Sisi- 
kon (Pens. Urirothstock), at the entrance to the narrow Riemen- 
staldenthal (p. 66). 

From the hamlet of (4'/2 M.) Riemenstalden (3410'; *Inn), the following 
summits may he ascended r the Iiophaien (6S30 1 ; 2'/z hrs.), commanding 
a fine view of the Lake of Lucerne; the "Rotsstock (8080 1 ; 3 l /s-4 hrs.), 
also with a charming view (these two ascents present no difficulty, comp. 
p. 103); the Liedemen or Kaiserstock (8255'; 4-472 hrs., with guide), to he 
attempted only by experienced mountaineers not subject to dizziness. — 
Over the Katzenzagel to the Muotathal, see p. 66. 

We next reach stat. Tell's Platte (Restaurant, with baths, at 
the landing-place), 8 min. above which, on the Axenstrasse, is the 
*H6t.-Pens. Tellsplatte (1680'; pens. 6fr.), with pleasure-grounds 
and a charming view. A little to the S. of the landing-place (private 
path in 1 min.) is a ledge of rock at the base of the Axenberg, where, 
shaded by overhanging trees and washed by the lake , stands the 
romantic Tell's Chapel, rebuilt in 1880, and adorned with four 
frescoes by Stiickelberg of Bale. It is said to have been originally 
erected by Canton Uriin 1388 on the spot where the Swiss liberator 
sprang out of Gessler's boat. On Friday after Ascension Day mass 
is performed here at 7 a.m., and a sermon preached, the service 
being attended by the inhabitants of the neighbourhood in gaily 
decorated boats. Near the chapel the lake is upwards of 700' deep. 

The grandest part of the Axenstrasse is between Tell's Platte 
Inn and Fliielen (2'/ 2 M.), where it pierces the curiously contorted 
limestone strata of the Axen/luh, 360' above the lake, by means of 
a tunnel. Beyond the chapel, Fliielen (which the steamer reaches 
in t / i hr. more) becomes visible. The scenery of this part of the lake 
is very striking. Opposite the chapel, on the W. bank, lies the 
hamlet of Bauen (Tell; p. 82), and, farther on, the dynamite-factory 
of Isleten (now abandoned), at the mouth of the Isenthal. On the 
saddle between the two peaks of theUri-Rothstock, which rise above 
the Isenthal, lies a glacier, distinctly visible from the steamer; to 
the left of it the Gitschen (8270') rises abruptly from the lake, with 
its summit resembling a castle. Beyond Fliielen the valley of the 
Reuss seems to be closed by the pyramidal Br isten stock, with the 
Kleine and Grosse Windgdlle to the left of it (p. 115). 

Fliielen (*Kreuz, R., L., & A. 3, B. U/ 4 fr. ; Tell $ Post, R. 2, 
I>. 3 fr.; *Adler, R. 2-3 fr.: *Sl. Gotthard, pens. 4-5 fr.; *IIirsch, all 
near the quay; Stern; Rail. Restaurant, with garden; lake-baths on 
the Axenstrasse, '/ 2 M. off), is the port of Uri, ami a station (close to 
the pier) on the St. Gotthard Railway (p. 1(12). Beyond the church 
is the small chateau of Rvdenz which once belonged to the Atting- 
hausen family. The Reuss, which falls into the lake between Fliielen 
and Seedorf, has been 'canalized' lure to prevent inundations 
{ x jl hr.'s walk, or '/4 hr. by boat to its influx). 



Lucerne. ISENTHAL. II. Route 25. 85 

The Isenthal (see Map , p. 120) may be reached from Fliielen or 
Altdorf on foot in 3 hrs. via Seedorf (see above), by a path skirting the 
lake and ascending to the site of the Fruttkapelle (2188 ), with a pictur- 
esque view, where the path turns to the left into the valley; or by the 
steamer from Fliielen (starting at 1.20 p.m.), which touches at Isleten daily ; 
or by small boat from Fliielen; or, best of all, by boat from Tell's Platte 
in '/» hr. (2-4 fr.). From Bauen (see above) a pleasant path , affording 
splendid views of the lake, ascends round the slope of the Furkelen 
direct to Isenthal in l'/2 hr. — The path ascending from Isleten unites 
at the Fruttkapelle with the path from Seedorf. About 1 hr. from Isleten 
we reach the prettily situated village of Isenthal (2452' ; Gasser^s Inn, three 
beds, rustic but clean ; guides, Joh. Imfanger and Mich, and Joh. Gasser), at 
the S. base of the precipitous Oberbauen or Schyngrat (6955'), which may 
be ascended hence via the Bauberg in 3V2-4 hrs. (recommended to adepts ; 
guide necessary). The valley divides here into the Grossthal to the right 
and the Kleinthal to the left. — Through the Grossthal, in which lies the 
Alpine hamlet of ( 3 /4 hr.) St. Jakob (3215'), we may either proceed to the 
W., passing over the Schbnegg Pass (6315'), between the Hohe Brisen 
(7890') and the Kaiserstuhl (7877'), to Ober-Bickenbach and (51/2 hrs.) Wolfen- 
schiessen (p. 119); or to the S.W., over the Rothgr&tli (8420'), between the 
Engelberg-Rothstock and the Hasenstock, to (10 hrs.) Engelberg (p. 120). 
The Engelberg-Rothstock (9250') may be ascended without difficulty from 
the Rothgratli in 3 /t hr. (comp. p. 120). Via the Jochli and the Buhlalp 
to (4'/2-5 hrs.) Nieder-Rickenbach, see p. 119. 

Through the Kleinthal leads the shortest route to the summit of the 
Uri-Eothstock (6-6'/2 hrs.; not easy ; guide 15 , or with descent to Engel- 
berg 25 fr.). A fatiguing path leads to the Neienalp and (2 hrs.) Musen- 
alp (4885') ; then a toilsome ascent of precipices of slate-rock to the 
top of the Kessel (8458'); lastly, up the Mittelgralli, or round it towards 
the E., across the Kleinthal Glacier and up the arete separating it from the 
Bliimlisalp Glacier, to the (4 hrs.) summit of the "Uri-Rothstock (9620'). 
An easier, but longer route through the Grossthal, passing St. Jakob (see 
above) and the Schloss/elsen , ascends by a steep and rough path to the 
(3 hrs.) Hangbaum-Alp (5660'), grandly situated (fine cascades), where the 
night is spent (hay-beds); thence (starting early in the morning) over 
pastures , loose stones, and along the N. edge of the Bliimlisalpfim to the 
ridge between the Grossthal and Kleinthal ; and lastly up the arete towards 
the W. to the summit(3 1 /2-4hrs. from Hangbaum), which is usually free from 
snow in summer. The mountain-group which culminates in the Uri-Eoth- 
stock and the Brunnistock (9683'), like the Titlis, is almost perpendicular 
on the E. and S.E. sides (towards the Gitschenthal and Surenen), and is 
composed of gigantic and fantastically contorted limestone rocks. The view 
from the summit is exceedingly grand : to the S. the chain of the Alps, with 
the Sentis at their E. extremity; at our feet, 8000' below, the Lake of 
Lucerne and the entire Schachenthal ; to the N.E., N. and N.W. the 
Mythen, Eossberg, Eigi, Pilatus, and the Entlebuch Mts., the lower hills 
of N. Switzerland, and the plains of S. Germany. — The descent (an easy 
and attractive glacier-expedition) may be made by the Bliimlisalp Glacier, 
the Schlossstock-Liicke, and the Rothstock-Liicke to the (3 hrs.) Plankenalp 
Club-hut, and to (3 hrs.) Engelberg (p. 120). 



26. The Rigi. 

The Mountain Railways which ascend the Eigi from Vitznau and from 
Arth are now used by the vast majority of travellers who visit this 
admirable and justly famous point of view. The journey is further 
facilitated by the numerous trains and steamboats which connect Arth 
and Vitznau with places both near and distant, so that a visit to the 
Eigi and back may now be accomplished easily from Lucerne or Ziirich 
in one day. The ascent from Vitznau, which is more convenient for many 
travellers, affords beantifnl views all the way, while that from Arth offers 



86 II. Route 26. RIGI. Hotels. 

the advantage that the view hursts upon the spectator far more strikingly 
as he approaches the top. 

Both lines are constructed on the rack-and-pinion system. The gauge 
is of the usual width. Between the rails runs the toothed rail, which 
consists of two rail9 placed side by side and connected with cross-bars at 
regular intervals. Into the spaces thus formed works a cog-wheel under 
the locomotive, which is always placed below the passenger-car. The 
maximum gradient of the Vitznau line is 1:4, and of the Arth line 1:5. 
Each train on the Vitznau line consists of one carriage only, with 54 
seats , not divided into classes, and , on the Arth line , of two carriages 
holding 40 persons each. The average speed is 4-6 M. per hour. 

The Footpaths to the top of the Rigi are now very little used , but 
the Descent to Weggis on foot (2-21/2 hrs. ; see p. 88) is recommended. 

Hotels. On the Kulm, "Schreibeb's Rigi-Kulm Hotels (three houses, 
the two higher and older being now dependances of the lower; Restau- 
rant on the ground-floor of the latter); high charges, R., L., & A. 6-7, 
D. 5 fr. — On the Rigi-Staffel (p. 87), where all the routes converge, '/a nr - 
below the Kulm, "Hot.-Pens. Rigi-Staffel, R., L., & A. 3-3>/2, !>• 3>/2, S. 3, 
pens. 8-9 fr., adapted for a stay of some time; Hotel Staffel-Kulm and 
Hotel Rigibahn, both immediately above the station, moderate. — The 
"Kurhaus Rigi-Kaltbad (p. 87), >/2 hr. below the Staffel, to the W., is a 
large, first-class establishment (pens, from 9 fr. ; hot and cold baths; Engl. 
Church Service); "Bellevue, below stat. Kaltbad, D. 3'/2, pens, from 7 fr. 
— "Hotel Rigi-Fiest, on the Scheidegg railway (p. 91), '/< nr - from the 
Kaltbad, pleasant for some stay, pens, from 10th July to 10th Sept. 
11-15 fr., earlier or later in the season 9-12 fr. — ''Sonne and "Schwert, 
by the Klosterli (p. 88), R. & A. I1/2-2V2, D. 2V2-3, pens. 5-G fr. — Pens. 
Riedboden, between the Klosterli and the Staffel, 4 fr. — ''Hot. -Pens. 
Rigi-Felsenthor (p. 88), 10 min. from stat. Romiti- Felsenthor (p. 87), 
pens. 6-7 fr. Hotel-Pens. Rothenfluh, 10 min., and Hotel-Pens. Grubis- 
balm, 15 min. from stat. Freibergen (p. S7), both unpretending. — •Hotel- 
Pens. Rigi-TJnterstetten, near stat. Unterstetten (p. 91), plain, pens. 
5-6 fr. — "Kurhaus Rigi-Scheidegg (p. 92), R.3-5, D. 4, B. l>/ 4 , 8. 2'/-j, 
pens, in July and August 7-12, in June and Sept. 7-10 fr. (Engl. Ch. Serv.). 

The **Bigi (5905', or 4470' above the Lake of Lucerne; origin- 
ally 'die Rigi', i.e. the strata), a group of mountains about 25 M. in 
circumference, lying between the lakes of Lucerne, Zug, and Lowerz, 
is chiefly composed of conglomerate (p. 101), while the N. and W. 
sides belong to the meiocene formation. The N. side is precipitous, 
but the S. side consists of broad terraces and gentle slopes, covered 
with fresh green pastures which support upwards of 4000 head of 
cattle, and planted towards the base with flg, chestnut, and almond 
trees. Owing to its isolated situation, the Rigi commands a most ex- 
tensive view, 300M.in circumference, and unsurpassed for beauty 
in Switzerland. The mountain was known to a few travellers 
during the latter part of the 18th cent., but it was not till afterthe 
peace of 1815 that it became a resort of tourists. In 1816 a very 
modest inn was erected on the Kulm by voluntary subscription, and 
in 1848 it was superseded by the oldest of the three houses on the 
summit. .Since then the number of inns has been steadily increas- 
ing, and the Rigi is now one of the most popular of Swiss resorts. 

From Vitznau to the Rigi-Kulm, 4'/2 3!., Mountain Railway 
in 1 hr. 20 min., fare 7 fr. (to Kaltbad 4'/ 2 , Staffel 6 fr.); descent also 
in 1 hr. 20 min., fare 3Va fr. ; 10 lbs. of luggage free. First-class return- 
tickets from Lucerne to the Rigi via Vitznau 13' 2 fr. ; Sunday tickets 7 fr. ; 
season-tickets 30 per cent less. Return-tickets dn not permit of an alternative 



i"JL#- TaiinbSlll,. 



~%\ 



iumpQ.sec 



'mB&JjunHyistv 



Mtiko 



./ 



v\\V 



\awA 



M 



\ 



'cenha* 



.Buwi-yt 



/' • 



p y' $ 



ioiiifc 



>M<* 



• Jfock HM 



Burqeck 



nwrajhwi/l ■ 



rf. 



Ucfuvyl 



%g 



Grepp 



pen- 



en 



,/ 



': Habsburi] 



-\i 



tftuttberq \ 

J -)Jto 

■'■? 



K ' A. ..Hitv.'/MMlr/l 



y#6*.-\ 



-**«< 



?*«*•' 



■liutm-nbcn, 



Kail JSiii, 



Iltrtensteul 



%ndm 



I E R W 









l-nter Otxf 



-/ 



l_x:' Ir 



HutAU 



Vitznau #v.. 



Jlolh Ji/iiJi ' 






V.diTcurvf '» S*.icX v J l#uiu\£«t, 



*--> • ' 



■J Juloju^trr* 




\ Jehorno. j 

\ ■' ' '¥ 



R» ( 



■ r:,i rf Mot 



J ft ■ , 



\ A*5? \ t'nt<T\Kaa6rto ~~*( \lft'''\ -Jris Hr J K } ■■''"'A' 



J&^jf i \ Arfd/r.i/l >V 



^V ■>•■'<'•'">«■" fen isa s £ E S^Hir*' 




^L^T^^^f^ /J/0 O^E^L*£0* f: 
;>:SriiseIUbden ~~\ / . ••._/'/ '■-<. --^v., * 

2M4. ■•\.ju r • z*^- TV r. q •«!.... ... -j.-}* J ^yu-'ii: 



Tnab 



liSi . 

'•■■!mi.' 



1 Je/tiUcrMo*! 




Tkiji 



j'ifcjy 



,s 



J.OOO 



DiwkvV«A« I ^ --> - I- " 



Kaltbad. RIGI. //. Route 26. 87 

return-route; e.g. holders of tickets from Vitznau may not return to Arth, 
or vice versa. 

Vitznau, see p. 79. The station is close to the quay. The 
train (views to the left) ascends gradually through the village (1 : 
15), and afterwards more rapidly (1 : 4), skirting the precipitous 
slopes of the Dossen. A *View of the lake is soon disclosed, becom- 
ing grander as we ascend. Opposite us first appears the dark Btir- 
genstock, then the Stanserhorn, Pilatus, and Lucerne. Farther up, 
the Alps of Uri, Engelberg, and Bern come in sight above the lower 
mountains. The train (20 min. after starting) penetrates a tunnel 
82 yds. long, crosses the Schnurtobel, a ravine 75' deep in which the 
Orubisbach flows, by a bridge borne by five iron pillars, and soon 
reaches the watering and passing station of Freibergen (3333'), beyond 
which the line is double. Stat. Romiti-Felsenthor (3890'; comp. 
p. 88) and (54 min. from Vitznau) — 

23/jM. Kaltbad (4700') ; to the left is the large Kurhaus (p. 86), 
with its covered promenade, a health-resort on a plateau sheltered 
from the N. and E. winds. 

A path leads through a narrow opening in the rock, to the left of the 
hotel, to (6 min.) St. Michael's Chapel, the walls of which are hung with 
numerous votive tablets. One of these on the left side records that two 
pious sisters sought refuge here from the persecutions of a governor of the 
district in the time of King Albert, and built the chapel. The spring 
(42° Fahr.) which bubbles forth from the rock adjoining the chapel was 
formerly called the 'Schwesternborn'. 

A level path among the blocks of conglomerate near the chapel, and after- 
wards traversing park-like grounds, leads to the i}/t hr.) 'Kanzeli (4773'), 
a pavilion on a proj ecting rock , commanding an admirable view of the 
snow-mountains, and of the plain towards the N. with its numerous lakes, 
similar to that from the Staffel, but with a more picturesque foreground. 
— A path leads hence to the Staffel in the same time as from the Kalt- 
bad (50 min.), ascending to the right as far as the point where the S. part 
of the Lake of Lucerne becomes visible, and following the crest of the 
mountain until it joins the path from the Kaltbad, at the ('/2hr.) Staffelhohe. 

Railway from the Kaltbad to the Scheidegg, see p. 91. 

In 5 min. more the train reaches stat. Staffelhohe; then ascends 
to the left, round theRigi-Rothstock (see below), in 9 min. to (4M.) 
Rigi-Staffel (5262'), the junction of the Arth line (see below). 

The -Rigi-Rothstock (5455'), 'A hr. to the S.W. (direct path from the 
Kaltbad in 35 min.), affords a very picturesque survey of the central part 
of the Lake of Lucerne, which is not visible from the Kulm. A clear view 
is often enjoyed from this point while the Kulm is enveloped in dense 
fog. The sunset is said to be sometimes seen in greater perfection from 
the Rothstock than from the Kulm, but the sunrise should certainly be 
witnessed from the latter. 

The railway (here parallel with the Arth line) now ascends steeply 
to the Kulm (in 7 min. ; a walk of y 2 hr.), skirting the precipices 
on the N. side of the hill. 41/2 M. Rigi-Kulm (5741'), see p. 89. 

From AltTH to the Rigi-Kulm, 7M., Mountain Railway inlV2hr., 
fare 8fr. 30 (to the Klosterli 5 fr. 50, Staffel 7fr. 40c; from Arth-Ooldau, on 
the St. Gotthard Railway, to the Kulm in H/4 hr., 8 fr.); descent in IV2 hr., 
4 fr. 30 c. ; return-tickets from Arth illh, fr °m Arth-Goldau 11 fr. ; only 
10 lbs. of luggage free. Season-tickets 50 per cent less. 



88 II. Route 26. RIGI. Klosterli. 

Arth (1345'; Rail. Restaurant), see p. 96. As far asGoldau the 
line is of the ordinary kind. The train ascends gradually to O&er- 
Arth (1490'), passes through the Miihlefluh Tunnel and under the 
St. Gotthard Railway, and reaches (I1/2 M.) Arth-Goldau (1683'), 
a station on the St. Gotthard line (p. 101), where the toothed- 
wheel system begins , and where we change our direction (Seats 
should if possible be secured at Arth on the left side, that 
farthest from the waiting-room.) The Rigi line traverses part of 
the scene of the Goldau landslip (p. 101), crosses the Schwyz road, 
and describes a wide curve to the "W.; then, ascending more rapidly, 
it skirts the slope at the foot of the Scheidegg and reaches (2 3 / 4 M.) 
stat. Krabel (2507'), where the engine is 'watered'. Farther on, 
ascending 1' in 5', we skirt the precipitous Krdbelwand, and obtain 
a fine view of the valley and lake of Lowerz , with the island of 
Schwanau, the Mythen near Schwyz, the Rossberg and scene of the 
great landslip, and the Lake of Zug. Beyond the Rothenfluh Tunnel 
we are carried through a picturesque wooded valley, and across the 
Rothenfluhbach, to the passing-station Fruttli (3780'). Still ascending 
rapidly, the train traverses the Pfedernwald , crosses the Dossen- 
bach and (beyond the Pfedernwald Tunnel) the Schildbach, and 
reaches (5 M.; IV4 hr. from Arth) — 

Stat. Bigi-Klosterli (4262'), lying in a basin enclosed by the 
Rigi-Kulrn, the Rothstock, and the First. The 'Klosterli' is a small 
Capuchin monastery and hospice, with the pilgrimage-chapel of Maria 
zurn Schnee, founded in 1689 and rebuilt in 1712, and the inns al- 
ready mentioned (p. 86). The chapel is much visited by pilgrims, 
especially on 5th Aug. and 6th Sept. ; and on Sundays there is mass 
with a sermon for the herdsmen. This spot has no view, but is 
sheltered, and the air is often quite clear while the Kulm, Staffel, and 
Scheidegg are shrouded in mist. Walk from the Klosterli to the Rigi- 
First 20 min., Unterstetten 1/2 hr., to the Staffel, the Rothstock, or the 
Schild 3 / 4 , to the Dossen or Kulm li/ 4 hr., to the Scheidegg l^gltf. 

At (6»/ 4 M.) stat. Bigi-Staffel (p. 87) a strikingly beautiful 
view is suddenly disclosed towards the "W. and N. (comp. p. 86). 
From this point to the (7 M.) Rigi-Kulm, see p. 87. 

Foot and Bridle Paths to the Rigi (comp. p. 86). Fitota Weggis (p. 79) a 
bridle-path (3'/4 hrs.), which cannot be missed (finger-post 5 min. from 
the landing-place), winds at first through productive orchards, the fruit 
of which is frequently offered for sale. It crosses the track of a mud- 
stream which descended from the mountain in 1795, taking a fortnight to 
reach the lake. (l'/ t hr.) Heiligkreuz-Capelle ; (•/» hr.) "H6M- Pen lion Felien- 
thor (p. 86), near the Bochstein or Kasbissen, an arch formed of two huge 
masses of conglomerate, on which rests a third block. (Stat. Romiti, a 
little higher up, see p. 87.) The path runs parallel to the railway part 
of the way. P/ 4 hr.) Kaltbad, see p. 87. This route commands beautiful 
views and is especially recommended for the descent (comp. p. 86). 

From KOssnacht (p. 96) a bridle-path l3>/ t hrs.). The path diverges 
to the right by a small shrine at the N. end of the village, skirting the 
brook, which it crosses near a large new house ; >/2 hr., ruins of a burned 
house; at the finger-post 'auf die Rigi" we turn to the left; 20 min., Jtoil- 
tceid, where the rock bears a cross to the memory of a man killed by 



Kulm. RIGI. 77. Route 26. 89 

lightning in 1738 (view over the N. part of the Lake of Zug); then through 
wood (for 20 min.) and a fern-clad tract (view of the Lakes of Sempach 
to the left, and Baldegg to the right). (1/4 hr.) Vordere Seeboden-Alp (3372'; 
Hotel-Pension Seebodenalp, 5-7 fr.), on which, at the Heiligkreuz, our 
path unites with those from Immensee and Tell's Chapel ; 18 min., Hinlere 
Seeboden-Alp. Then a steep zigzag ascent of l'/4 hr. to Rigi-Staffel (p. 87). 
Fkom Goldau (p. 101), 3 3 /4 hrs., an excellent bridle-path, and not to 
he mistaken. To the W. of the railway-station we cross the Act, and proceed 
to the left of the brook through meadows, pine-wood, and rocky de'bris, 
ascending by steps at places. To the left the precipitous slopes of the Roth- 
fluh (5233'). 1 hr. Unteres Dichli (3083'; Inn), where the path fromArth 
comes up on the right; good view of the valley of Goldau, the Lake of 
Lowerz, and the Mythen of Schwyz. By the cross adjoining the tavern 
begin the thirteen stations or oratories which lead to the chapel of Our 
Lady of the Snow. At (20 min.) the Oberes Dachli (refreshm.), with its 
fresh spring, the wood is quitted; on the opposite side of the valley runs 
the railway. This point is about half-way to the top ; the second half 
(l 3 /4 hr.) is easier. 10 min. Malehm-Kapelle, the 8th station ; then 0/2 hr.) 
Klosterli (p. 88); thence to the Rigi-Staffel (p. 87) 40 min., to the First 
20 min. (p. 101). 

The Rigi -Kulm (5905'), the highest and northernmost point of 
the Rigi, descends abruptly on the N. to the Lake of Zug, while on 
the S.W. side it joins that part of the mountain which encloses the 
basin of the Klosterli and extends to the Scheidegg. At the top 
rises a wooden belvedere. The hotels (p. 86) stand about 130 paces 
below the summit, sheltered from the W. and N. winds. 

The Kulm almost always presents a busy scene, but is most 
thronged in the morning and evening. The sunset is always the 
chief attraction. A performer on the Alpine horn blows the 'retreat 
of the orb of day, after which the belvedere is soon deserted. 

Half-an-hour before sunrise , the Alpine horn sounds the re- 
veille. All is again noise and bustle ; the crowded hotels are for 
the nonce without a tenant; and the summit is thronged with an 
eager multitude, enveloped in all manner of cloaks and mantles. 
Unfortunately a perfectly cloudless sunrise is a rare event. 

A faint streak in the E., which gradually pales the brightness 
of the stars, heralds the birth of day. This insensibly changes to 
a band of gold on the horizon ; each lofty peak becomes tinged with 
a roseate blush ; the shadows between the Rigi and the horizon grad- 
ually melt away; forests, lakes, hills, towns, and villages reveal 
themselves ; all is at first grey and cold, until at length the sun 
bursts from behind the mountains in all its majesty, flooding the 
superb landscape with light and warmth. 

**View. The first object which absorbs our attention is the stu- 
pendous range of the snow-clad Alps, 120 M. in length (comp. the 
Panorama). The chain begins in the far E. with the Sentis in Can- 
ton Appenzell , over or near which the first rays of the rising sun 
appear in summer. Nearer the Rigi rises the huge snowy crest of 
the Olamisch ; then the Todi , in front of which are the Clariden, 
and to the right the double peak of the Scheerhorn ; next, the broad 
Windyalle , immediately opposite , and the sharp pyramid of the 
BrUtenstock , at the foot of which lies Amsteg on the St. Gotthard 



90 II. Route 26. RIGI. Kulm. 

load; then the Brunnistock and the Uri-Rothstock , side by side, 
both so \ near that the ice of their glaciers can be distinguished; 
next, the broad Schlossberg and the serrated Spannorter, and more 
to the right the Titlis, the highest of the Unterwalden range, easily 
distinguished by its vast mantle of snow. The eye next travels to 
the Bernese Alps, crowning the landscape with their magnificent 
peaks clad with perpetual snow. To the extreme left is the Fintter- 
aarhorn, the loftiest of all (14,025'); adjacent to it the Lauteraar- 
hom and the Schreckhorn, the three white peaks of the Wetter horn 
(Rosenhorn, Mittelhorn, and Hasli-Jungfrau), the Monch, the Eiger 
with its perpendicular walls of dark rock on the N. side, and the 
Jungfrau with the Silberhorn. To the W. tower the jagged peaks of 
the Pilatus, forming the extreme outpost of the Alps in this direc- 
tion. — Towards the North the entire Lake ofZug is visible, with 
the roads leadings toArth, and the villages of Zug, Cham,'Risch, and 
Walchwyl. To the left of the Lake of Zug, at the foot of the Rigi, 
stands Tell's Chapel, midway between Immensee and Kiissnacht, 
a little to the left of a white house; then, separated from the Lake 
of Zug by a narrow strip of land, the Kiissnacht arm of the Lake of 
Lucerne ; more to the W. Lucerne with its crown of battlements and 
towers, at the head of its bay. Beyond Lucerne is seen almost the 
entire canton of that name and farther to the N. the canton of Aar- 
gau, with the Emme meandering through the open landscape like a 
silver thread ; the Reuss is also visible at places. More distant are 
the Lake of Sempach, the "W. side of which is skirted by the rail- 
way to Bale, and the lakes of Baldegg and Hallwyl. Towards the 
West and Nobth-West the horizon is bounded by the Jura Mts., 
above which peep some of the crests of the Vosges. — To the North, 
but to the left of the Lake of Zug, in the distance rises the castle 
of Habsburg; still farther the Black Forest with its highest peaks, 
the Feldberg (to the right) and the Belchen (to the left), is visible. 
Beyond the Lake of Zug is seen the crest of the Albis with the 
Vetliberg , which nearly conceals the Lake of Zurich; the long 
cantonal hospital and the cathedral in the town of Zurich are, 
however, visible. In the extreme distance rise the basaltic cones 
of Hohenhowen and Hohenstoffeln (close together) and the Eohen- 
twiel in Swabia. Towards the East, behind the N. slope of the 
Rossberg, a glimpse is obtained of the Lake ofAgeri, on the S. bank 
of which was fought the famous battle of Morgarten (p. 72). 
Beyond Arth, opposite the Kulm, is the Rossberg , the S. slope of 
which was the scene of the disastrous Goldau landslip (p. 101). 
Between the Rossberg and the E. ramifications of the Rigi lies the 
Lake of Lowers with its two little islands ; beyond it, the town of 
Schteyz, at the foot of the bald heights of the Mythen, overtopped 
by the imposing Olarnisch. To the right opens the Muotathal, cel- 
ebrated in military annals. To the South-east and South the 
different heights of the Rigi form the foreground : viz. the Hochfluh 



!U . Sp«i-WM GrdubrijlTO? BiKtnstHJ ^.ndkospMirn 21W7 ftaJ*rl»rni*?23S R jr h en .9l-u-m«h2013 Dnusi.ml RaKiuiMDM -Hi.cH*uMnIS72 MUrtnbprJE G«M%™m*!9)( Bifcrumi! Tad. i. ■■-. :■■'■■'•■ £-.WW|((lf31«J KtWiruHtHeWI KrwuH.ftJTB N*JerWnt9tt fi!tsdi»?ill BIHMiomW 

. , A1tm.«mM3S Miw.trB.1S6S LtiiDtftZW) SihitnblW MirUthennflW OrhicnlopF Gr.Mjftc WJ RuchlgriU Fault.iZ7i* IIiujhH 3tSB Mullen ,t< 3091 K.,«Ml*«J "** 8nSdi«ra"H» Kl.fi wtiwttJt I: .-... Bolm.tMffl S<ropi 3M» IrWMWtSMTS BartBitofflll fell 

S« n iif!5M MUH.H951 . KJ pB ,tti.1M BrSnnditB R.ut. Schr,t»61 :1fll XlMytMHB 8**3lork !BES PfmnM.lV- OrtsioeV Gr.Ructi! W«s«>beJ331 Bod.L,cl.,RM 6jjjPW»o Ro»si«rtttSJ DiWsa: ofc 5 r!!L( k Weit-iBlpstt G4.«™tKh ritatariDM DNWiWta BfO 



>VU ..curjiiurr 

HtatitflMl 6,S«lit3tK E-i.!tfi«ta^IKt Hurn^HBl liai,3;B HinllWrMW BtftWrtl MihrwW.2914 H^WnlfiM bM^IM f.Mw«Hi' C*.W«Vi-«Sj lto,«hMi Sth-nhliaSC. BIBmlisal^^ein W1I.I..W fc«n;» R.rthr NiMtnmB SchriU^IU | |r, EnlSlIS G^fc*""!" 

.,. : ~».i •™,.iiKiP:„:„i.j : ' , J„,„.,M„. > >,.-h».i.-,s., n,„„i-Si.d.,K- "> S..-hara m.»» «»•■ M«l» ™ ™ I.;;H.r, H.*,,i» aaa ,„aui kw .,,,.ti.»: 

"t- »•» ""%!•- "&•>•" -f;;;™ *%*■ "" "i'„r-""' "SSrtl, t£S*sr"'";,!S '1S"; lrl „„„ "„,.,„,. l '- <~sr ** '"'-;»;' 

, e...»..!..i».i Ef;g« ™ 




I » 8 

( 1800 Meter 0. M.I 

Nach Kellers neuem Rlgi-Panorama in hm ir Gross* de* Originals. 



First. RIGI. II. Route 26. 91 

(below it the Rothflufi), Scheidegg , Dossen , and Schild, at the foot 
of which lies the Klosterli. To the left of the Schild part of the 
Lake of Lucerne is seen near Beckenried, and to the right the hay 
called the Lake of Buochs, with the Buochser Horn above it ; a little 
more to the right the Stanser Horn with Stans at its base ; nearer, 
the less lofty Burgenstock and the Rigi-Rothstock. Beyond these, 
to the left, is the Lake of Sarnen, embosomed in forest, to the 
right, the Bay of Alpnach, connected, with the Luke of Lucerne by 
a narrow strait formed by the Lopperberg , a spur of Pilatus. — 
Good panorama by Keller, upon which that annexed is based. 

For a quarter of an hour before and after sunrise the view is 
clearest ; at a later hour the mists rise and condense into clouds, 
frequently concealing a great part of the landscape. To quote the 
chamois-hunter in Schiller's Tell : 

'Through the parting clouds only 
The earth can be seen, 

Far down 'neath the vapour 
The meadows of green.' 

But the mists themselves possess a certain charm, surging in the 
depths of the valleys, or veiling the Kulm, and struggling against 
the powerful rays of the sun. The effects of light and shade, 
varying so often in the course of the day , are also a source of 
constant interest. In the early morning the Bernese Alps are seen 
to the best advantage, and in the evening those to the E. of the 
Bristenstock. One whole day at least should be devoted to the Rigi. 
A visit may also be paid (on foot or by rail) to the Staffel (p. 87) 
and the Rothstock (p. 87), the Kaltbad (p. 87), the Klosterli (p. 88), 
or the Scheidegg (p. 92). 

As the temperature often varies 40-50° within 24 hours, overcoats 
and shawls should not be forgotten. During the prevalence of the Fohn, 
or S. wind, the Alps seem to draw nearer, their jagged outlines become 
more definite, their tints warmer; and during a W. wind the Jura Mts« 
present a similar appearance. These phenomena generally portend rain. 



From the Kaltbad to the Rigi-Scheidegg. — 4i/< 31. Railway 
(adhesion-cars, without toothed rail) in 25 min. ; fare 2 fr. 50, there and 
back 3 fr. 60 c. 

Rigi-Kaltbad (4700'), see p. 87. The railway skirts the S. 
slope of the Rothstock, being hewn in the rock the greater part 
of the way, and ascends gradually to stat. Rigi -First (4747'; 
*Hotel, see p. 86), which commands a beautiful view of the Lake 
of Lucerne, the Uri and Unterwalden Mts., and the Bernese Alps. 
The train now describes a wide curve round the N. slopes of the 
Schild (5062'; 18 min. from the Hotel Rigi-First), affording a pleasant 
view, towards the E., of the Mythen, the Glarnisch, and the Alps 
of Appenzell. Beyond stat. Vnterstetten (Hotel, see p. 86) we tra- 
verse the saddle of the hill and cross a bridge 55 yds. long, with 
a view to the N. and S. "We pass through the Weissenegg Tunnel, 
55 yds. long, cross the Dossentobel by a viaduct 84' high, and 



92 //. Route 26. RIGI-SCHEIDEGG. 

beyond the ridge which connects the Dossen with the Scheidegg, 
where a view towards the S. is again disclosed, reach Vnter-Dosien. 

Stat. Rigi-Scheidegg, 160' below the *Hotel $■ Kurhaus (54050 
mentioned at p. 86. The view hence is less extensive than that 
from the Kulm , but it also embraces the principal mountains, and 
some points not visible from the Kulm (view-tower 70' high ; Pano- 
rama at the hotel). The plateau of the Scheidegg, about 1 M. in 
length, affords a pleasant promenade which may be prolonged by the 
'Seeweg' along the slope of the Dossen as far as Unterstetten. The 
Dossen (see below), commanding a splendid view, is 3 /4hr. distant. 

The 'Rigi-Hochfluh (5555') may be ascended in U/2-2 hrs. from the 
Scheidegg, by a new path constructed by Dr. Stierlin-Hauser, which stead- 
ily follows the ridge, passing the Qatterli (pass from Geraau to Lowerz; 
3720") and Seharleggli (4475'). In the couloir, on the N.W. side of the sum- 
mit, an almost perpendicular iron ladder, 80* high, must be ascended 
(wire-rope railing, but steady head indispensable). This highly interesting 
ascent affords a most picturesque view of the Lake of Uri, the Alps of 
Uri and Schwyz, and the Glarner Alps. The older route (2 l /2-3 hrg.), cross- 
ing the saddle towards the ZihlittockSiilte, and then ascending among 
the rocks on the S. side, has also been improved and is preferable to the 
route on the N. side. 

Paths to the Scheidegg. From Gersau (p. 80) a bridle-path (3-3>/j hrs.), 
steep at places. Beyond the village we cross the brook and ascend by a 
paved path between orchards and farm-houses; 40 min., the Brand; >/s hr., 
a saw-mill, where we again cross the brook; 10 min., Unter-Qschwend 
(3200"; tavern); 10 min., Ober - Gschwend (3330'; halfway). To the right, 
the precipitous slopes of the Hochfluh( see above); below lies the little chapel 
of 5i. Joseph. We now turn to the left (to the right is the path to Lower* 
via. the Qatterli, see above) and ascend by the Hasenbiihl-Alp and the KrUtel- 
boden to the sharp crest of the hill, where a view is suddenly disclosed of the 
Rossberg, the lakes of Lowerz and Zug, and the Kurhaus of Rigi-Scheidegg. 

From Lowerz (p. 101) a bridle-path (3 hrs.), ascending towards the S. to 
the Oatterli (see above) and thence to the right over the ridge to the hotel. 

From the Klosterli (p. 88) a bridle-path (iy 2 hr.), ascending from 
the Schwert Inn to the (1/2 hr.) B6tel Rigi- Unterstetten (p. 86), situated on 
the saddle between the Schild and Dossen (5510 1 ), 40 min. below the sum- 
mit, which commands the whole of the Lake of Lucerne and Canton Unter- 
walden. Descent via TJnterdossen to Scheidegg in 40 minutes. Refreshments 
may be obtained at a chalet, halfway between Unterstetten and Scheidegg. 

27. From Lucerne to Alpnach-Stad. Pilatus. 

Comp. Map, p. 79. 
Brdniq Railway from Lucerne to (8 M.) Alpnach-Stad in 27-32 min., 
(1 fr. 40, 1 fr., 70 c. ; return-tickets 2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 60, 1 fr. 15 c), see p. 122. 
— _ Steamboat, 8 times daily in »/t-l'l 2 hr. (6 times via Kehrsiten, thrice 
via Hergiswyl, twice direct via Stansstad), connecting at Alpnach-Stad 
with the Briinig and Pilatus Railways. Passengers with through -tickets 
may use as far as Alpnach either the Bruni^ Railway or the steamboat. — 
The ascent or descent by the Pilatus Railway (p. 94) takes 1 hr. 25 min.; 
fares, up 10, down 6fr. j return-fare for the first and the last train 10 fr.; 
combined tickets for railway and hotel, including R., D., and B. 25 fr.; 
Sunday tickets, valid in May and Oct. for the first, in June-Sept, for the 
first and second trains (return by any train) 9 fr. 

The Bat'Nio Railway to Alpnach-Stad, via, Hergiswyl, see 
p. 122. — The Steamboat steers towards the 'Kreuztrichter'(p.79), 
keeping near the W. bank and passing the oonntry-seat of Tribtchen, 



HERGISWYL. II. Route 27. 93 

the Pension Stutz (p. 74), the St. Niklauscapelle, and the station of 
Eastanienbaum, and enters the bay of Stansstad. To the left rises 
the Burgenstock, with its precipitous N. slopes, at the N. E. angle 
of which lies the station of Kehrsiten (Restaurant). 

A Rack-and-Pinion and Wire-Rope Railway ascends the'Biirgenstock 
from Kehrsiten in 12 min. (fares, up i.i/s, 1 fr., down 1 fr., 50 c), tra- 
versing a distance of 1025 yds., with an average gradient of 54 : 100. The 
motive power is electricity, which is also utilized for pumping water and 
for purposes of lighting. At the top of the railway (2855', 1420" ahove the 
level of the lake) is a. Restaurant, with view terrace, heside which is the Park 
Hotel; 3 min. farther S. the large "Hdtel Burgenstock (R. from 2 1 /2-6 1 J2, B. 
V/i, D. 4!/2, hoard 7 fr. ; resident physician), a favourite health-resort, 
with extensive and shady grounds. The hotel and several points near 
it command beautiful views of the lakes of Lucerne , Zug , Sempach, 
and Baldegg, the Rigi, etc. A good path leads to (V2 hr.) Honegg; an- 
other (lately improved) through wood in 35-40 min. to the "Hammetsch- 
wand (3720'), the summit of the Burgenstock, which descends abruptly 
to the Lake of Lucerne : striking view of the greater part of the lake, 
of the lakes of Sarnen , Sempach , Baldegg , Hallwyl , and Zug , of the 
Rigi, Pilatus, Mythen, Weissenstein, and of the Alps of Glarus andUnter- 
walden, and part of the Bernese Alps (Panorama 50 c). 

To the right the promontory of Spissenegg extends far into the 
lake, forming a bay which extends to the N. to Winkel. The steamer 
steers (except on the direct voyages, see p. 92) to the S."W. to 
Hergiswyl (*H6t.- Pens. Rossli, *H6t.-Pens. Schweizerheim, both mod- 
erate), at the foot of Pilatus (see p. 95), and then to the E. to Stans- 
stad (1445'; *H6tel Winkelried, pens. 6 fr., K. extra; Freienhof; 
Rossli; SchlilsseV), the 'harbour of Stans'. The square pinnacled 
Sehnitz-Thurm was erected by the Swiss in 1308 to vindicate their 
new-won independence. 

Steam-tramway from Stansstad to Stans and cable-line thence to the 
top of the "Stanserhorn, see p. 118. — From Stans to Engelberg, see R. 34. 

Walk feom Stansstad to Sabnen, 3 hrs. The path skirts the lake for 
a short way, enters the Rotzloch, and at Allweg ("Inn), 2 M. from Stans- 
stad, where there is a chapel in memory of Winkelried (pp. 21,118), joins 
the Stans and Sarnen Road (no diligence). This road leads past the W. 
base of the Stanserhorn (p. 118), and by Rohren to (2 M.) St. Jakob, a village 
with an old church, then across the Mehlbach, and through the Kemwald 
to (3 M.) Kerns and (IV2 M.) Sarnen (p. 123). 

The Lopper, the E. spur of Pilatus, extends far into the lake. 
The brook opposite, which falls into the lake at Stansstad, has further 
narrowed the channel between the Lake of Lucerne and the Lake of 
Alpnach with its alluvial deposits, and the strait is now crossed by 
an embankment and a bridge (AcherbriickeJ, which is opened for the 
passage of steamers. Within the Bay of Alpnach rises the Rotzberg 
(2214'), crowned by a ruined castle of the same name (ascent from 
the Rotzloch 3 / 4 hr. ; view). The hill is separated from the Plattiberg 
by the Rotzloch, a narrow ravine, in which the Mehlbach forms 
several falls. Portland cement factory (the dust sometimes very 
unpleasant). On the lake is situated Hotel-Pension Rotzloch, with 
a sulphur-spring and pleasant grounds (pens. 4-5 fr.). On the slope 
of the Rotzberg, 1 / i hr. to the E., is the *Pens. Rotzberg, prettily sit- 
uated, and 10 min. beyond it the Pens. Burg Rotzberg. 



94 //. Route 27. PILATUS. 

At the S.W. angle of the Lake of Alpnach lies Alpnach-Stad 
(1443'; *H6tel Pilatus, R., L., & A. 2 l / 2 -3 l /2, I>- 3V2. B.li^fr., with 
veranda and garden; Stem; Rbssli, moderate), the station for the 
Briinig Railway and the starting-point of the Pilatus Railway. 

*Pilatus (6998'), the lofty mountain to the S.W. of Lucerne, 
rises boldly in a rugged and imposing mass, almost isolated from the 
surrounding heights. The W. and N. portions belong to the canton 
of Lucerne, the E. and S. to Unterwalden. The lower slopes are 
clothed with beautiful pastures and forests, while the upper part 
consists of wild and serrated cliffs, from which its ancient name 
Fractus Moris (broken mountain) is derived. The names 'Fracmont', 
'Frakmund', have in later times been occasionally applied to it, hut 
the name Pilatus (probably from the tradition mentioned at p. 78) 
came into general use about the close of last century. The mountain 
is the popular barometer of the district ; if the summit is free from 
clouds and fojr in the morning, the weather cannot be depended on; 
but if shrouded in fog till midday, a clear evening may be expected. 

The names of the different peaks from W. to E. are the Mittaggilpft 
or Gnepf stein (6300'), the Rothe-Totzen (6893'), the Widderfeld (6825', the 
wildest), the Tomlishorn (6998', the highest), the GemsmaMi (6732'); to 
the S. the Matthorn (6693 1 ); to the N. the Klimsenhorn (6265', which, seen 
from Lucerne, is the farthest W.); in the centre the Oberhaupt, then the 
Esel (6965', the most frequently ascended), and lastly the Steigli-Egg (6185'). 

The Pilatcs Kail way (duration of journey and fares see p. 92; best 
views to the right), constructed in 1886-88 by Col. Locher of Zurich, is 
nearly 3 M. long, with an average gradient of 42 : 100 and a maximum 
gradient of 48 : 100. The line rests throughout on a substructure of mas- 
sive granite blocks and slabs, to which an upper framework of iron and 
steel is securely fastened with huge screws. The toothed rail has vertical 
teeth on both sides, into which two pairs of toothed wheels attached to 
the train work horizontally. The engine and the passenger-carriage (32 seats) 
form a single car with two axles. 

The railway begins near the Hotel Pilatus (1443' ; p. 93), and 
immediately ascends, traversing orchards and afterwards wood. 
21 min. Wolfort (2985'), a watering-station , immediately beyond 
which the train crosses a stone bridge , with a span of 82', 
across the gorge of the Wolfort ; fine view of the Lake of Alp- 
nach to the right. We then enter the Wolfort Tunnel (48 yds.), 
beyond which the line is carried along the stony slope of the Ris- 
leten, the most difficult portion of the railway to construct (gradient 
48 : 100), and then traverse the Lower (56 yds.) and Upper Spychtr 
Tunnel (106 yds. long; 3773' above the sea-level) to the (43 min.) 
Aemsigenalp (4430'), a passing-station with pumping-works which 
force water to the Pilatus-Knlm, 235 r >' above. The railway now 
ascends through wood on the edge of a gorge, crosses the Mattalp 
(to the right the Steigli-Egg. in front the Esel), turns E. to the Ros- 
egg, and is next carried up the precipitous rocky slope of the Esel 
through four tunnels (48, 60, 50, and 12 yds. long). The terminus 
Pilatuskuhn (6785') adjoins the former Hotel Bellevue, now a 
dependance of the largo *H6tel Pilatuskulm (R., L. } ,<; A. 6-8, B. 2, 
lunch 4, D. 5 fr. ; restaurant in the ground-floor cheaper). The ter- 




A : 



II si 
p i n 



TSd i 



:■■, 



Rigi hyhstork 



ri.Lii-fir.teit H..,. 

jaw G^tfhe 

Oogjen ril Mvtht Ho*1)ub 



ScWd 
'*■ * FWiiah 

Lr 



Tschingelrt: 
M jt Hancock 

"Sire «*»l*'l '• R "' h ' 3 '" s,i k! „H;a luisna «""»*'"» 

5 30^ : a5 ' 7 Fair 1 a,Ie!15a Sriwalm.sKy fyCajnblfcla 



■ ■ ■ 

Steiiialp'firiss' 



:ia 



■in!; -i:. : U 



i7Si; 



[.,*]_; 



Hqthst* Rofefuti 



E n 9 [ I b e r ) 



Rrqith.il-tncLt P| 

MflMtftfa 



r Alp 
Wichelpbnkst!! 



Titlis 3239 

'i[-.il,-li|[>; : ! 



k.ni:-.i:v. 
U;,siHt» , s<;' 1 1 



T r i f t J . b i i f 

■Win _, , . HLtj-Jl-: 

Msmtopf Badmirfluh Mil 

SOW Thi^bgia W'i . Diechterhl B M glaaistock Ami 

Up™**™ »,ktaissb,r, ]m m , B ™.b,b.,.Ai 

2W - Gr au rtoct26Gl : Ealenstoft Steinha ^ 5 3t^ 6lMkharf36 

.lrfpv.;»GB to*ji»*> . MB . MHjjjL,,; „,„„„•« 




""fir H;h™,st*isi» 



Oberaarborn 



r Fiescber'nbmer 

r,.Sl»rjlA,m „„ S4 „„ h ,„, »J0 



Faullmrn Bliimiisalp 



WiliistiuW 

■r hritlih!! 



Augstmattlioro 
Weiashorn 30IU M %„,,|ifl 

..,«, Wilrfh U rr,j!6L HSU 



SthralienHuh 
2076 
3366 Feu*jrst*-iT« 



Sest v C Btrt*mj Sch-rft , B . Sclnrtm , LtipJ 



PMOB1IA tsm FILATUlS (ESEL.) 2123m. 



LAKE OF ZUG. II. Route 28. 95 

race commands a fine mountain view. — An easy path leads from 
the station to (6 min.) the summit of the *Esel, or Etzel (6965'), 
the chief point of view, with a spacious summit-plateau, surrounded 
by a parapet. The view surpasses that from the Rigi in grandeur 
and variety, the Bernese Alps in particular looming nearer and 
more massive (comp. the Panorama). — A similar but less pictur- 
esque view may he enjoyed from the *Tomlishorn (6998'), the high- 
est peak of Pilatus, to which a good path, skirting the slopes of the 
Oberhaupt and Tomlishorn and crossing the Tomlishorngrat (rail- 
ings; no danger even for novices), leads from the Hotel Pilatuskulm 
in */2 hr. (Panorama by Imfeld). — Another new path, cut in the 
rocks, leads to the top of the Matthorn (6693' ; from the H6tel 
Pilatuskulm 2 hrs. there and back). 

Pedestrians will find the ascent of Pilatus best made from Bergiswyl 
(p. 93), at the N.W. foot of the mountain. There is a bridle-path as far 
as the (3 l /2hrs.) Hotel Kimsenhorn (horse 12 fr., descent, on the same day, 
8, next day 12 fr.), whence a footpath ascends to (40 min.) the Pilatuskulm. 
In front of the church we take the broader path to the left, and after 
3 min. turn to the right, traversing orchards and meadows, and after- 
wards wood. At (lhr.) the "Kurhaus Brunni (pens. 6fr.), a health-resort, 
there is a terrace affording a fine view. After 1 /2hr. the path leads through 
a gate to the Gschvidndalp ; 20 min. farther up, near a chalet (refreshm.), 
we pass through another gate and ascend in steep zigzags to the left, at 
first through beautiful pine-wood, and then across slopes of grass and 
debris, to (I1/4 hr.) the Hdttl Klimsenhom, situated on the saddle (5940', 
35' higher than the Rigi- Kulm) connecting the Oberhaupt with the (lOmin.) 
Klimsenhom (6265'), which affords an extensive and picturesque prospect 
to the E., N., and W., from the Uri Mts. to the Lake of Neuchatel. The 
view to the 8. is hidden by the loftier peaks of Pilatus. 

From the Hotel Klimsenhom a well - constructed zigzag path (iron 
railing higher up) ascends the steep slope of the Oberhaupt. to the (40 min.) 
Krietiloeh, an aperture in the rock resembling a chimney, 20' high, through 
which 52 easy steps ascend to the arete between the Oberhaupt and the 
Esel. The "View of the Bernese Alps is suddenly disclosed here. The 
path then leads in 4 min. to the Hotel Pilatuskulm (p. 94). 

The Pilatuskulm may also be reached by bridle-paths from Alpnach- 
Siad (4V2-5 hrs. ; via the Aemiigenalp and Mattalp) and from Alpnaeh 
(p. 122; 4'/2-5 hrs.; via the Alps of Lutholdsmatt, Schwdndi, and Hinter- 
Frakmilnd). — From Kriem (p. 77) a path leads to (372-4 hrs.) the Hotel 
Klimsenhom, passing the chateau of Schauensee, and traversing the Hoch- 
wald and marshy pastures via the Miihlenmdst - Alp and Frakmiind-Alp 
(guide indispensable). Via the Briindlenalp (last part of the route very 
ough), see p. 78. 

28. From Zug and Lucerne to Arth. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 78, 86. 

i. From Zug to Arth. Lake of Zug. 

Steamboat (in connection with the Zurich and Lucerne and the Rigi 
railways) in 50 min. (Quick train from Zug by Rothkreuz to Arth-Goldau 
in 48 min., ordinary in 1 hr. 40 min.) 

The Lake of Zug (1368'), 83/ 4 M. long, 2'/ 2 M. wide, and 650' 
deep, is very picturesque. Its richly wooded banks rise gently to 
a moderate height, while to the S., above its azure waters, towers 
the Rigi, visible from base to summit. On the flat N. bank of the 
lake many remains of lake-dwellings have been discovered. 



96 7/. Route 28. li-UiSSJNAUtrr. 

Zug, see p. 71. Soon after the steamer has left the pier, PilatH 
appears to the S.W., and then the Bernese Alps and the Stansew 
horn to the left. On a promontory on the W. bank is the handsome; 
new chateau of Buonas ; on the E. bank lie the village of Obertoyl- 
and the houses of Otterswyl and Eielenegg. Looking back, we ob- 
serve the church-tower of Cham (p. 72), rising above the plain. 
On the W. bank, farther on, the wooded promontory of Kiemen pro- 
jects far into the lake. To the left of the Rigi-Scheidegg are the 
Frohnalpstock and the Ross-Stocke. The steamer touches at Lothen- 
bach on the E. bank, and then crosses to Immensee (Hot. Rigi), 
charmingly situated at the foot of the Rigi. (Rail, stat., see p. 101 ; 
omnibus to Kussnacht in !/-2 hr.) The steamer then steers diagon- 
ally across the lake to Walchwyl (*Pens. Hurlimann, with hydro- 
pathic, well situated, pens. 4 1 /2-5 l / , 2 fr. ; *Stern), on the E. bank. 
The mildness of the climate is indicated by chestnut-trees and vines. 
To the left lies St. Adrian, at the foot of the Rossberg (see p. 100), 
which on this side is clothed with wood and pasture. As Arth is 
approached, one of the Mythen of Schwyz (p. 101) peeps from be- 
hind the Rossberg. 

Arth (1345'; *Adler, with garden on the lake ; *S6t. Rigi ; Schlus- 
sel) lies at the S. end of the lake, between the Rigi and the Ross- 
berg , but not exposed to the landslips of the latter, the strata of 
which dip in another direction. 

Arth-Rigi Railway, see p. 87. — From Arth to Ktlssnacht and Lucerne, 
see below. 

ii. From Lucerne to Kussnacht and Arth. 

Steamboat from Lucerne to (8M.) Kussnacht in 45-55 min. ; Post-Omnibus 
from Kussnacht to (2 M.) stat. Immensee thrice daily in 25 min.; Railway 
from Immensee to (5 M.) Arth-Goldau in 19 minutes. (From Lucerne by 
Rothkreuz to Arth-Goldau 55-75 min. ; see pp. 72, 100.) 

Departure from Lucerne, see p. 78. The steamer touches at 
Pens. Seeburg (p. 74), rounds the promontory of Meggenhorn (p. 78), 
and enters the Bay of Kussnacht. To the left, near stat. Vorder- 
Meggen, rises the picturesque chateau of Neu-Habsburg , behind 
which peeps the ancient tower of the castle of that name, once a 
frequent resort of the Emp. Rudolph when Count of Hapsburg, 
and destroyed by the Lueerners in 1352. The incident which in- 
duced Rudolph to present his horse to the priest is said to have 
occurred here (see Schiller's ballad, 'The Count of Hapsburg'). 

Stat. Hinter-Meggen (*Kurhaus $ Pens. Oottlieben, suitable for 
some stay, prettily situated l / t M. from the lake, 5'/2-772 fr.). The 
steamer now crosses to Greppen, skirts the beautiful wooded slopes 
of the Rigi, and soon reaches — 

8M. Kussnacht (1395'; pop. 2940; *H6t.-Pens. Mon-SSjow, 
with hydropathic estab., garden, and sea-baths, R. 2-3, D. 3, pens. 
5-6 fr.; *Schwarter Adler; Rossli; Tell), a village prettily situated 
at the N. end of this bay of the lake. Omnibus to Immensee from the 
landing place; one-horse carr. 3 fr. — Asi-ent of the Rigi, see p. 88. 



BIBERBRUCKE. II. Route 29. 97 

Post-omnibus to Immensee from the steamboat-pier; one-horse carr. 3fr. 
— The "St. Michaelskreuz (2615'), locally known as the 'Kleine Rigi', 
l'/j hr. to the N.W. of Kiissnacht (easily reached via Altikori), commands 
a beautiful view of the lakes of Zug and Lucerne, the Alps and the hilly 
landscapes of N. Switzerland. Unpretending *Inn and chapel on the top. 
A more extensive view is enjoyed from the Ochsenwaldhdke (2685'), 5 min. 
from the inn. The St. Michaelskreuz may also be ascended by good roads 
from Rothkreuz (via. Meierskappel in l'^hr.), fromGisikon (in lhr.) and 
from Lucerne (via. Adligenschwyl and Udligenschwyl in 3 hrs.). 

The road ascends through the 'Hohle Gasse' or 'hollow lane' ; 
see Schiller's Tell), now half filled up, but still deserving the name 
at one point where it is shaded by lofty beeches. At the upper end 
of it, l!/ 4 M. from Kiissnacht, to the left, is Tell's Chapel (1585'), 
rebuilt in 1834, marking the spot where the tyrant Gessler is said 
to have been shot by Tell. Over the door is a painting of the event, 
with an inscription. By the 0/2 M -) inn *ZurEiche, the road divides. 
A few paces to the right is stat. Immensee- Kiissnacht (p. 100). The 
road to the left descends to (74 M.) the village of Immensee (p. 96). 



29. From Zurich via Wadensweil to Goldau. From 
Biberbrucke to Einsiedeln. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 38, 78. 

36 M. Railway in 3-3V2hrs- This is the shortest route from the Lake 
of Zurich to the Bigi and the St. Gotthard Railway, as well as to Ein- 
siedeln (branch-line from Biberbriicke, 3 M., in 13 min.). 

Wadensweil (1348'), see p. 41. The line ascends the fertile 
slopes on the S. bank of the Lake of Zurich, commanding beautiful 
views of the lake, with the Curfirsten and Sentis in the background. 
2M. Burghalden (1741') ; 3% M. Samstagern (2080' ; Rail. Restau- 
rant), junction of the line (to the left) to Rapperswil-Pfafflkon via 
Wollerau($. 41). Beyond (5y 2 M.) Schindellegi (2483'; *Freihof; 
HirscK) we cross the brawling Sihl. 

Diligence twice daily in '/s hr. to Feusisberg (2233' ; "Hotel), a health 
resort, pleasantly situated, with fine view of the lake of Zurich and the 
Alps of Appenzell. — IV2 M. to the S.W. of Schindellegi (diligence twice 
daily in '/» hr.) is the whey-cure resort of Hiitten (2428' ; Bar; Kreuz), 
charmingly situated on the idyllic Hiittentee, at the foot of the wooded 
Hohe Rhonen (see below). — The Dreilanderstein (412T), the highest point 
of the Hohe Rhonen, marking the boundaries of cantons Zurich, Zug and 
Schwyz, may be reached from Schindellegi in 1 hr., and the walk may 
be continued along the crest of the hill to the Qottschalkenberg (see below). 

The line rounds the B. slopes of the Hohe Rhonen (see above), 
and approaches the Alp, which falls into the Sihl here. Towards the 
S. appear the Mythen (p. 101). Beyond (7 1/2 M.) Biberbrucke (2730' ; 
Post), where the Biber falls into the Alp, the Glarus Mts., bounded 
on the left by the pyramidal Kopfenstock (6240'), form the back- 
ground. 

Pleasant excursion from Biberbrucke (by road l'/2hr.; damp footpath, 
to the right about halfway, l l /4 hr.) to the top of the "Gottschalkenberg 
(3780'; "Hotel, pens. 6-7 fr.), the W. prolongation of the Hohe Rhonen (see 
above), commanding a fine view of the Alps (finest from the Belvedere, 

Baedekeb, Switzerland. 15th Edition. 7 



98 II. Route 29. EINSIEDELN. From Zurich 

20 min. to the 8.)- The descent may be made to (2'/a M.) Ober-Ageri 
(p. 72), to (l>/2 br.) Richterttoeil (p.41), or by Menzingen to (6M.) Zug (p. 71). 

Fbom BibkrbrOckb to Einsibdeln, 3 M., branch-railway in 
13 min. The train follows the narrow Alpthal (several cuttings arid 
embankments, and a short tunnel). 

Fkom Pfaffikon (p. 41) by the Etzbl to Einsiedeln,_ 3'/2 hrs. A 
narrow road commanding fine views of the lake ascends in windings, 
past the Pens. Lugeten, to the (3 M.) pass of the Etzel (3145'; *Inn), with 
the Chapel of St. Meinrad. The Bohe-Etzel (3610'; steep ascent of tys br. 
from the inn) is wooded, and commands no view, but the °Sch5nboden 
(3513'), »/i br. to the E., affords a splendid view of the lake, the Limmat- 
thal as far as Baden, the Alps of Appenzell and Olarus, the Siblthal and 
Alpthal, with Einsiedeln, the Mythen of Schwyz, the Eossberg, and the 
Rigi ; to the W. rises the Hohe Rhonen (p. 97). Travellers bound for 
Einsiedeln may from the Schbnboden descend towards the 8.W. direct to 
Egg, visible below, cross the Sihl, and join the road from the Etzel. — 
From the Etzel Inn the road descends to the P/4 M.) TeufeUbriicke (2755') 
over the Sihl. Then 3 3 /4 M. to Einsiedeln. 

Einsiedeln (2770'; pop. 8612; *Pfau, R. & A. 2% B. from 1, 
D. 3, S. 21/2 fr.; *Sonne; DreiKbnige; *Adler; Schwari), or Notre- 
Dame-des-Ermites (Monasterium Eremitarum), in a green valley, 
watered by the Alpbach, vies with Rome and Loreto in Italy, St. 
Jago de Compostella in Spain, and Mariazell in Styria as one of 
the most famous pilgrim-resorts in the world. 

Its foundation is attributed to Count Meinrad of Sulgen, who built a 
chapel here in honour of a wonder-working image of the Virgin presented 
to him by the Abbess Hildegard of Zurich. After the death af Meinrad, 
who was assassinated in 861, a monastery of Benedictine Hermits ('Ein- 
siedler') sprang up here. In 1294 it was created an independent princip- 
ality by Emp. Rudolph of Hapsburg, and owing to the constantly increas- 
ing throng of pilgrims which it attracted soon vied with St. Gallen as one 
of the richest monasteries in Switzerland. 

In the large open space between the houses (a great many of 
which are inns for the entertainment of the pilgrims) and the con- 
spicuous buildings of the monastery rises a black marble Fountain 
with fourteen jets, surmounted by an image of the Virgin , from 
which the pilgrims are wont to drink. Under the Arcades , which 
form a semicircular approach to the church on the right and left, 
as well as in the Platz itself, there are numerous stalls for the sale of 
prayer-books, images of saints, rosaries, medals, crucifixes, and 
other 'devotional' objects. So great is the demand for engravings, 
religious works, and other souvenirs of the place, that at Benziger 
& Co.' s establishment no fewer than 700 workmen are employed in 
printing and stereotyping, engraving on wood and zinc, chromo- 
lithographing, book -binding, etc. The pilgrims, who come chiefly 
from Switzerland, Bavaria, Swabia, Baden, and Alsace, number about 
150,000 annually. The greatest festival takes place on 14th Sept. 

The extensive Abbey Buildings, in the Italian style, which were 
re-erected for the sixth or seventh time in 1704-19, are 148 yds. 
long , 41 yds. of which are occupied by the Church and its two 
slender towers. On the right and left of the entrance are Statues of 
the Kmperors Otho I. and Henry II., two benefactors of the Abbey. 



to Ooldau. ROTHENTHURM. II. Route 29. 99 

The Inteeior of the church is gaudily decorated with gilding, marble, 
and pictures of little value. In the nave stands the Chapel of the Virgin, 
of black marble, the 'Sanctum Sanctorum 1 , with a grating, through which, 
illuminated by a solitary lamp, a small Image of the Virgin and Child is 
visible, richly attired, and decked with crowns of gold and precious stones. 
In the chapel to the right a Crucifix by J. Kraus ; in the choir an As- 
sumption by the same artist, skilfully restored by Deschwanden in 1858. 
— The Abbey contains a well-arranged Libeaby of 26,000 volumes, chiefly 
historical, a number of MSS., and a small natural history collection. The 
FOestensaal is hung with good life-size portraits, including those of 
Pius IX. and the emperors William I., Francis Joseph, and Napoleon III. 
The Private Chapel of the abbot is adorned with paintings of ecclesiast- 
ical events. — Connected with the Abbey are a Seminary and a Ltceum. 

The Herrenberg (3650'; l^hr.,) a hill above the Abbey to the 
S.E., commands a beautiful view of the neighbourhood. 

From Einsiedeln to Schwyz ovek the Hacken (3'/2 hrs.), destitute 
of shade, and very disagreeable in bad weather. We ascend the monoton- 
ous Alp thai (with the nunnery of Au on the right) to the (l'/2 hr.) village 
of Alpthal (3258'; 'Stern), where the somewhat rough and steep log-path 
ascending the Hacken begins. In >/2 nr . we reach a point where the 
space between the two Mythen (p. 101), shaped like the letter V, is 
distinctly observed, and in •/* nr - more the Inn on the Hacken Pass 
(4588'), which commands a splendid view of the lakes of Lucerne and 
Lowerz, etc. (The view is still finer from the Bochstuckli, 5105', 'li hr. 
higher up, to the N., and embraces the N. part of the lake and the town 
of Zurich.) Descent to (1 hr.) Schwyz steep and stony. 

Feom Einsiedeln to Schwyz ovee the Ibeegee Egg, 13 M. Good 
road through the Sihlthal or Euthal by Sieinbach and Euthal to (8 M.) 
Iberg (3483'); thence to the Iberger Egg (4823') or Heilighauschen, afford- 
ing a fine survey of the Lake of Lucerne and the Alps, and by Biilisberg 
and Rickenbach to (5 M.) Schwyz. 

Beyond Biberbriicke (p. 97) the railway crosses the Biber , and 
ascends across a monotonous plateau. From (25 '/j M.) Altmatt 
(3035' ; Rossli), a poor hamlet on a large moor, a carriage-road leads 
in l 3 / 4 hr. to the Oottschalkenberg (p. 97). 

28 M. Rothenthurm (3050'; *Ochs; Schweri), with a new Ro- 
manesque church, where to the left the Mythen, to the right the 
long back of the Rigi and the hotels on the Kulm become visible, 
is named after a red tower belonging to fortifications (Letze) once 
erected by the Schwyzers to protect their N.W. boundary. In the 
vicinity, on the E. slope of the Morgarten (p. 72), on 2nd May, 
1798, the Schwyzers under Reding defeated the French, who lost 
2000 men. The railway then descends in the wooded valley of the 
Steinen-Aa (two short tunnels) to (31 M.) Saitel-Aegeri; to the left 
is the pleasantly situated village of Sattel (2345'; *Neue Krone, near 
the station ; Alte Krone, in the village). 

The 'Schlagstrasse, as the picturesque road from Sattel to Schwyz is 
called (6 M. ; a fine walk), crosses the Steinen-Aa and ascends on the 
W. slope of the Hacken (see above), affording beautiful views of the fertile 
valley of Steinen, the Lake of Lowerz with the Schwanau, the scene of 
the Goldau landslip, and the Rigi. At (3 3 A M.) the "Hirich Inn (a little 
father on the Burg Inn), Schwyz and the Mythen become visible. Thence 
to stat. Seewen l}/« M., to Schwyz (p. 101) 2 M. 

From Sattel-Ageri to Morgarten, 2 M., omnibus in l 'i hr. (50 c.) ; 
steamboat on the Ageri Lake, see p. 72. 

The railway descends the slopes of the Rossberg, by several 

7* 



100 II. Route 30. GOTTHARD RAILWAY. 

viaducts and a short tunnel to (34 M.) Steinerberg (1950' ; *Rdssli), 
a mountain-village with a fine view of the valley of Lowerz, framed 
by the slopes of the Rigi, the Frohnalpstock (with the Uri-Rothstock 
in the distance), and the two Mythen. 

The *Rossberg (highest peak, the Wildspitz, 5190 1 ) may be ascended 
from Steinerberg by a new bridle-path in 2'/a hrs. At the top, which com- 
mands a fine view (Panorama by Imfeld), is the Hdtel Rotsberg-Kulm. — 
The descent may be made to Agtri (p. 72). 

The railway traverses the scene of the 6old.au Landslip, and 
joins the St. Gotthard Railway (see below) at (36 M.) Arth-Ooldau 
(H6t. Hof Goldau, etc.). — Rigi Railway, see p. 87. 

30. From Lucerne to Bellinzona. St. Gotthard 
Railway. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 78, 86, 120, 104, 110, 374. 

109 M. Railway. Express in 4 1 /2-5'/3, ordinary trains in 7'/2 hrs. ; fares 
24 fr. 60, 17 fr. 20, 12 fr. 30 c. (To Lugano 127>/2 M., express in 6V4 hrs.; 
29 fr. 30, 20 fr. 50, 14 fr. 66 c. ; to Milan 176 M., in 9'A hrs.; 36 fr. 65, 
18 fr. 5 c.) Bothhveuz (p. 72), a station between Zug and Lncerne, the 
starting-point of the St. Gotthard line, is reached by express from Zurich 
in about IV2 hr. ; from Bale by Lucerne in 3 hrs., or by Aarau or by 
Brugg and Muri in 3'/2-4V< nrs - — For the day express there is a table 
d'hote at Goschenen, where the traveller should be careful to avoid an 
involuntary change of carriages, or even of trains. Finest views from 
Lucerne to Fliielen to the right, from Fliielen to Goschenen to the left, and 
from Airolo to Bellinzona to the right. 

The **St. Gotthard Railway, constructed in 1872-82 at a cost of 
238 million francs , is one of the grandest achievements of modern 
engineering. The highest point of the line, in the middle of the great 
tunnel , is 3787' above the sea-level, and the maximum gradient is about 
1' in 4'. At places the ascent is rendered more gradual by means of curved 
tunnels , piercing the sides of the valley ; there are three such tunnels 
on the N. side, and four on the S. side of the mountain (comp. Map, p. 104). 
Altogether the line has 56 tunnels (of an aggregate length of 25V2 M.), 
32 bridges, 10 viaducts, and 24 minor bridges. In order to examine the 
most interesting structure of the line itself, the traveller may drive in 
an open carriage or walk from Amsteg to Goschenen (12 M.) and from 
Airolo to Giornico (15 M.). Those who are not pressed for time should 
take the steamboat from Lucerne to Fliielen, in preference to the train 
(holders of through tickets and circular tickets have the choice of either 
route); or, if they have not yet visited the Rigi, they may take the rail- 
way to Rothkreuz, Arth-Goldau, the Rigi-Kulm, and Vitznau, and the 
steamer thence to Fliielen. 

From Lucerne to (11 M.) Rothkreuz (1410'), seep. 72. Our 
line diverges to the right, traversing a hilly and wooded tract. To 
the right the Rigi, the Uri and Engelberg Alps, and Pilatus. Be- 
fore reaching Immensee (p. 96), which lies below us, on the left, 
we obtain a survey of the E. part of the Lake of Zug (p. 95). On 
the N. bank lies Walchwyl; then St. Adrian (p. 96). 

16 M. Immensee-Kussnacht (1685'; omnibus to Kihsnacht in 
25 min., see p. 96). To the right are the wooded slopes of the Rigi, 
with the Kulm Hotel far above us (p. 89). The train runs high above 
the Lake of Zug, passing through several cuttings. At the E. end 



GOLDAU. II. Route 30. 101 

of the lake, on the left, lies the thriving village of Arth (p. 96), 
at the foot of the wooded Rossberg, behind which rise the Mythen 
(see below). Threading the Rindelfluh Tunnel (220 yds.) and several 
rock-cuttings, we reach — 

21 M. Arth-Goldau (1845'; * Hotel Hof Ooldau, Restaurant 
Bellevue, at the station; *Rossli, moderate), also a station on the 
Arth-Rigi Railway (p. 87) , and the junction for Einsiedeln and 
Wadensweil (p. 100). The station is situated on the scene of the 
great Ooldau Landslip, which occurred on Sept. 2nd, 1806. This 
landslip, which descended from the Gnippen (5127'), the W. 
summit of the Rossberg (p. 100), buried four villages with 457 of 
their inhabitants. The railway traverses part of this scene of de- 
solation, which extends a considerable way up the Rigi. Time has 
covered the fragments of rock with moss and other vegetation, and 
pools of stagnant water have been formed between them at places. 
The track of the landslip may be distinctly traced on the side of the 
Rossberg, which is still entirely barren. 

On the slope to the left lie the houses of Steinerberg (p. 100) ; 
on the right, high above, is the Kurhaus Rigi-Scheidegg (p. 92). 
The train skirts the pretty Lowerzer See (1475'; 3 M. long). To 
the right lies the village of Lowerz , and in the middle of the lake 
the Island of Schwanau with its ruined castle, a chapel, and a 
fisherman's house (Inn; boat from Lowerz orSeewen in 25min.). — 
241/2 M. Steinen (1540'; *Rdssli), a considerable village in a fertile 
situation, the traditional birthplace of Werner Stauffacher (p. 83). 
On the supposed site of his house stands the Chapel of the Holy Rood 
with new frescoes by Ferd. Wagner of Munich. The train crosses 
the Steinen-Aa to — 

26 M. Schwyz-Seewen (1500'; *H6t.-Pens. Schwyzerhof ; Rail- 
way Inn, both at the station). The village of /Seetuen(*RSssli, *Stern), 
to the W. of the line, at the foot of the K. spur of the Rigi, has a 
chalybeate bath which attracts visitors. About 1 M. to the E. lies 
Schwyz (1685'; pop. 6663; *R6ssli, R., L., &A.2-3fr.; *HotelHedi- 
ger, same charges; * Cafe Central, near the church, with garden), a 
straggling town, lying picturesquely at the base and on the slopes 
of the Little Mythen (5955') with its two peaks, and the Great Mythen 
(6245'). The Parish Church (1774) is considered one of the hand- 
somest in Switzerland. The Town Hall, restored in 1891 and em- 
bellished on the exterior with frescoes from Swiss history by Ferd. 
Wagner of Munich, contains portraits of 43 'landammanns J (mag- 
istrates) from 1534 downwards, and an old carved ceiling. The large 
Jesuit Monastery, above the town, is now a grammar-school. 

The -Great Mythen (6245' ; 3>/2 hrs. ; guide 6 fr. , unnecessary for the 
experienced; horse to the Holzegg 8-10 fr.). ascended without difficulty by 
a new path, is a magnificent point of view, hardly inferior to the Rigi and 
Pilatus. Road from Schwyz to (1 M.) Bickenbach (Bellevue; Stern, pens. 
4 fr.) ; bridle-path thence to the (2 hrs.) Holzegg (4642' ; small Inn), which 
may also be reached by a direct path from Schwyz via the Hblle and the 



102 II, Route 30. SOHWYZ. From Lucerne 

pastures of Hasli and BoU (guide desirable). — From Brunnen by Ibach 
and (3 M.) Rickenbach to the Holzegg in 3 hrs. , Schwyz remaining on the 
left. — Good path from Einaiedeln by Alpthal to the Holzegg in 2 s /4 hrs. 
— From the Holzegg the new Mythen path (railings at the steepest parts) 
ascends in 49 zigzags on the E. side of the mountain, and then follows the 
narrow arete to the (l'/4 hr.) summit (*Inn, plain, 10 beds). Good panorama 
by A. Heim. — The ascent of the Little Mythen (5955') is difficult ; view 
inferior to that from the Great Mythen. 

An interesting walk may be taken from Schwyz to the Suvoroff 
Bridge in the Muotat/ial , returning via Ober-SchSnenbuch (2 hrs. in all); 
comp. p. 65. 

We now turn to the S. (on the left the Frohnalpstock with the 
Kurhaus Stoos far above us, p. 83), cross the Muota near Ingenbohl, 
passing the large nunnery of Mariahilf, and Teach — 

28'/2 M. Brunnen (1445'; p. 82), the most frequented spot on 
the Lake of Lucerne. (Station Y2 M. from the lake.) 

Passing through a tunnel under the Giitsch and the Axen- 
strasse (p. 83), the train now reaches the *Lake of TJri, or S.E. 
bay of the Lake of Lucerne (p. 83), and is carried along its bank 
by a series of tunnels and rock-cuttings. Splendid views of the 
lake to the right. High above it, on the opposite bank, lie the 
houses of Seelisberg, at the foot of which are the Mythenstein and 
Riitli (p. 83); and farther to the left towers the Uri-Rothstock with 
its glacier (p. 85). We pass through the Hochfluh Tunnel, the 
St. Franciscus Tunnel, and the Oelberg ot Schiefernegg Tunnel 
(2169 yds.), the longest but one on the line. 32^2 M. Sisikon, at 
the mouth of the narrow Riemenstaldenthal (p. 84). Crossing the 
Axenstrasse, we traverse the Stutzeck Tunnel (1082 yds.) and others, 
passing TelVs Platte (chapel not visible ; p. 84) , the Axenberg 
(3670' long), and the Sulzeck, to — 

36 M. Fliielen (1435' ; Rail. Restaurant); see p. 84. 

We now ascend the broad lower Reussthal, with the Bristen- 
siocfc(p. 104) in the barkground, and the two Windgallen (p. 115) 
to the left of it. 

38 M. Altdorf, or Altorf (1465'; pop. 2553; *Schlussel, R. 2, 
B. 1, pens. 5-6 fr. ; *Lbive, moderate ; Krone; *Tell, with garden; 
Hotel de la Oare, at the station, R. 1-2 fr.), the capital of Canton 
Uri, 1 M. from the station, lies in a fertile valley surrounded by 
mountains. This pleasant little town is the traditional scene of 
the exploits of William Tell, the liberator of Switzerland from the 
Austrian yoke. A statue of the intrepid archer, with the child by 
his side, from Kissling's model, is to be erected to the N.W. of 
the tower (dating from the 13th cent.) in the principal 'Platx' of 
the village. Opposite is a fountain with the statue of a village 
magistrate. The Church contains a Madonna in relief, by Imhof. 
The Capuchin Monastery, above the church, and the neighbouring 
Pavilion Waldeck command beautiful views. (Ascent near the 
tower, or from below Tell's statue.) Above the monastery lies the 
Bannwald, a 'sacred grove', in which the woodman's axe is pro- 



to Bellimona. ERSTFELD. II. Route 30. 103 

scribed, as it protects Altdorf from falling rocks (see Schiller's Tell, 
Act iii, Scene 3). 

To the right, beyond the town, is a Nunnery, to the left the Arsenal ; 
then, about 1 II. to the left, the village of Burglen (1805'; Tell, pens. 
4>/2-5 fr.), prettily situated on a height at the entrance to the Schachen- 
thal (p. 64), the traditional birthplace of Tell. The supposed site of his 
house is marked by a Chapel, erected in 1522, and adorned with paint- 
ings of his exploits. 

Through the Schachenthal and over the Klausen to (28 M.) Stachelberg, 
see E. 20. A glimpse at the Schachenthal is best obtained by ascending from 
Weitersckwanden or Spiringen (p. 64) in about l'/2 hr. to one of the farm- 
houses in the Kessel (4505'), which afford a most picturesque survey of the 
grand head of the valley (Scheerhorn, Griesgletscher, Kammlistock , and 
Claridenstock) , with beautiful fresh pastures and dark pine-forest in the 
foreground. — The Ross-Stock (808C ; 5 hrs. ; guide 12 fr.), a splendid point 
of view, is ascended without difficulty by experts from Burglen, via the 
Meltenthal-Alp. Descent, if preferred, through the Riemenstaldenthal to 
Sisikon (p. 84). — Belmistock or Belmeten (7933'), from Altdorf in 5V2 hrs. 
(guide 8 fr.), also easy and interesting. 

The train now crosses the wild Schachenbach in its artificial bed, 
near its confluence with the Reuss. From among fruit-trees to the 
left peeps the church of Schattorf. To the right, beyond the Reuss, 
we observe the church -tower and the ruined castle of Atting- 
hausen, in which the Baron "Werner of Attinghausen, one of the 
characters in Schiller's Tell, is said to have died in 1307 (*Inn at 
the foot of the castle-hill). The background of the valley towards 
the S. is formed by the pyramidal Bristenstock (p. 104) ; to the right 
rise the bold precipices of the Qitschen (8335 r ) and the Boekli 
(6810'); to the left the Schwarzgrat (6636'), Belmistock (7933'), 
Hohe Faulen (8260'), and lastly the two Windgallen [Orosse, or 
Kalkstock, 10,463'; Kleine, or Sewelistock, 9800'). 

41i/ 2 M. Erstfeld (1503'; Hof Erstfeld , H6t. Bahnhof, both at 
the station, unpretending), a large railway-dep6t , where the ascent 
begins and a heavier locomotive is attached to the train. The village 
lies on the opposite bank of the Reuss, at the mouth of the Erst- 
f 'elder Thai, above which peep the jagged Spannorter, the Engel- 
terg-Rothstoek, and the strangely contorted Schlossberg Qlacier. 

The Erstfelder Thai (comp. Map, p. 120) extends to the S.W. to the 
Qlattenfirn. At the head of the valley are two Alpine lakes, the gloomy 
Fulensee, V2 hr- from the glacier, and the Obersee (6463'), V2 hr. farther to 
the S. On the latter, 3 l /2 hrs. from Erstfeld, is the Krbntehutte of the 
Swiss Alpine Club, whence the Krbnte or Kronlet (10,197') may be ascended 
by the Weissen Flatten and the Glattenfirn in 4'/2 hrs. (guide from Erst- 
feld 20 fr.), and the Great Spannort (10,515') in 5 hrs. (guide 25 fr.). The 
Fulenbach, which flows out of the Obersee, forms a beautiful fall. Fatiguing 
passes (for adepts only, with good guides) lead hence over the Schlossberg- 
Liicke (8635'; guide 25 fr.) and over the Spannort- Joch (9610'; guide 35 fr.) 
to (672 hrs.) Engelberg (comp. p. 120). 

From Erstfeld or Altdorf over the Surenen Past to (8V2 hrs.) Engelberg 
(guide 20 fr.), see p. 120. 

The Reussthal narrows, and the train begins to ascend on the 
right bank. 45 M. Stat. Amsteg (1795'), above Silenen, a village in 
the midst of fruit-trees. Near the station , on a rocky hill to the 
right, are the ruins of Zwing-Uri the traditional castle of Gessler 



104 II. Route 30. AMSTEG. From Lucerne 

(R. in the adjoining house). About 1 M. farther on lies the village 
of Amsteg (1760'; *Stern, or Post; *Hirsch; *Freihof; *Weisses 
Kreuz; *Engel; in all, R. 172-2, pens. 4-6 fr.), prettily situated 
at the mouth of the Maderaner Thai, from which the Karstelenbach 
descends to the Reuss. 

"Madirahee Thai, (bridle-path in 3 ] /4 hrs. to the Hotel Alpencluh), 
see R. 32. — Over the Kreuzli Pass or the Brunni Pass to Disentis and over 
the Clariden Pass to Stachelberg, see pp. 115, 116. 

The Bristenstock (10,090'), ascended from Amsteg in 7-8 hrs 1 . by the 
Brislenalp and the Blackialp and past the small Bristen-Seeli (7090"), affords 
a grand panorama, but is very fatiguing (guide 25 fr.)- Descent to the 
Etzlithal or Fellithal difficult. — Oberalpstock (10,925'), Kleine and Orosse 
Windgalle (9800' and 10,463'), etc., see p. 115. —The Hohe Faulen (826C J ), 
ascended from Silenen in 5 hrs. (guide 10 fr.) through the Evithal and over 
the Strengmatt, Bhonen, and Balmeten Alps, is attractive and not difficult. 

The St. Gotthard Road from Amsteg to Goschenen (comp. Map, p. 120) 
should be traversed on foot (or in an open carriage), both for the sake of 
the scenery and for the opportunity it affords of examining the interesting 
railway. It crosses the Karstelenbach and then the Reuss by a bridge of two 
arches. To the left runs the railway; below us the Reuss dashes through its 
deep ravine, forming a succession of waterfalls. In the early summer huge 
masses of avalanche-snow, looking like earth or detritus , are seen in the 
gorges. Beyond (l 3 /4 M.) Inschi (2168'; Lamm) we pass a fall of the Inschi- 
Alpbach. A picturesquely situated bridge carries the road back to the 
right bank of the Reuss (the railway remaining on the left bank), on which 
lies (IV2 M.) Meitschlingen, with a chapel. About V2 M. farther on we cross the 
Fellibach. (Through the narrow Felli-Thal or Fellenen-Thal , which abounds 
in crystals, the Oberalp-See may be reached by the Felli-Lucke in 6 hrs. ; 
p. 367.) On the hill opposite stands the hamlet of Otirtnellen (3048'). 
Beyond the village of Wyler is (3 31.) a third bridge (2660'), called the 
Pfajfeti sprung, by which the road recrosses to the left hank. The first 
of the curved tunnels of the railway begins here (p. 105). Far below, the 
river dashes through a narrow gorge. View beautiful in both directions. 
The road crosses the turbulent Meien-Reuss (p. 129) shortly before reach- 
ing (IV2 M.) Wasen (p. 105). To the right are the three railway-bridges. 
A path to the right, 50 yds. beyond the bridge, cuts off the windings of 
the road which ascends to the loftily situated church. 

Near ( 3 A 31.) Wattingen (2998') is the fourth bridge over the Reuss, 
above which, to the right, is a fall of the Rohi-bach (p. 105). The (1 31.) fifth 
bridge (Schonibriick, 3212') crosses to the left bank of the Reuss. To the 
left rises the Teufelsstein. a huge mass of rock. The next place (l'Ai M.) 
is Goschenen (3640'; p. 105). 

Above the village of Amsteg the line pierces a projecting rock 
by means of the WindgalleTunnel (182S'; 189 yds. long), crosses the 
Karstelenbach by an imposing iron bridge (147 yds. long, 177' high), 
affording a line view of the deeply-cut Maderaner Thai, with the 
Grosse Windgalle, to the left, and of the Reussthal to the right, 
and is then carried through the slope of the Bristenstock, which is 
much exposed to avalanches, by means of the two Bristenlaui 
Tunnels (436 yds. and 234 yds. long), and across the brawling 
Reuss by an iron bridge '2f>6' high. We now follow the left bank 
of the picturesque Reussthal (views to the left), traverse the Inschi 
Tunnel cross the Inschi-Alphach and the. Zraggenthal (viaduct about 
100 yds. long), thread the Zgraggen, lirtiten, and Meitschlingen 
tunnels and a long cutting, and skirt tin hillside by a viaduct to 
(50 M.) Gurtnellen ('2427'). 



Scale i:23.ooo. 



LOOP TUNNELS NEAR WASEN. 



Contour Llnrs drawn at 
intervals of 30 metres (38ft.) 



% ".'tei^i/ff, 



(JET" ■- «* 










LOOP TUNNELS NEAR DAZIO GRANDE. 




LOOP TUNNELS 
IN TBE IIASCMNA RAVINE. 



'jv-Tu; 




" /^:?,w* 







to Bellinzona. GOSCHENEN. II. Route 30. 105 

Above Gurtnellen we come to one of the most remarkable parts 
of the line, which in order to facilitate the ascent to Goschenen (see 
below) passes through three curved tunnels and describes a wide 
double bend. It crosses the Gornerenbach and the Hagrigenbach 
(fine waterfall on the right), enters, near the Pfaffensprung-Brilcke 
the Pfajfensprung Loop Tunnel (1635 yds., 3 min.), in which it 
mounts 115', goes through the short Muhle Tunnel, re-crosses the 
Hagrigenbach (overlooking the Pfaffensprung bridge on the left), 
and then traverses the Miihren Tunnel (2822'; 93 yds. long). Then 
follow a handsome bridge over the deep ravine of the Meien- 
reuss (p. 129), the Kirchberg Tunnel under the 'church-hill' of 
Wasen (330 yds.), a bridge across the Reuss to the left, the Wattin- 
ger Loop Tunnel (1199 yds.; ascent of 76'), another bridge over 
the Reuss, and the Rohrbach Tunnel (242 yds.). 55 M. Wasen 
or Wassen (3055'), a considerable village (*H6t. des Alpes; *Ochs ; 
Krone; Walker's Restaur.) with a loftily situated church command- 
ing an admirable survey of the bold structure of the railway. — 
Over the Susten to Meiringen, see R. 37. 

The imposing Mittlere Meienreuss Briicke (69 yds. long, 260' 
high) and the Leggistein Loop Tunnel (1204 yds. ; ascent of 82') 
carry us to the Upper Meienreuss Bridge (59 yds. long; 148' high), 
beautifully situated, the third bridge over the deep, wild gorge of 
the Meienreuss. We then pass through the short Meienkreuz Tunnel 
(3250' ; 84 yds. long), skirt the hillside, and obtain a view of Wasen 
and the windings just traversed. Opposite rises the Rienzer Stock 
(9785'). Crossing the Kellerbach and the Rohrbach, the train passes 
through the Naxberg Tunnel (1719 yds.; ascent of 118'), crosses the 
deep gorge of the Gbschenen-Reuss (bridge 69 yds. long, 161' high ; 
view of the Goschenenthal to the right, with the beautiful Damma- 
ftrn, p. 109), and reaches — 

591/2 M. Goschenen, or Geschenen (3640'; *Rail. Restaurant, D. 
372 fr. ; *H6t. Goschenen, opposite the station, R., L., & A. 3, D. 
3-4, pens. 6-9 fr. ; *Rbssli, 1/4 M. from the station, R.& A. 2, B.I1/4, 
D. 3fr. ; Hot. St. Gotthard; Lowen, moderate; Krone). In the little 
cemetery is a tasteful monument (1889) to L. Favre, the engineer 
of the St. Gotthard Tunnel, by Andreoletti. — From Goschenen 
to Airolo by the St. Gotthard Road, 22 M., see R. 31. 

Immediately beyond the station the train crosses the Gotthard- 
Reuss (p. 110) by a bridge 105' high, and enters the great *St. 
Gotthard Tunnel, which is 16,309 yds. (974 M.) in length, being 
2930 yds. (l 2 / 3 M.) longer than the Mont Cenis Tunnel. The 
central point is 3786' above the sea-level, from which it descends 
on both sides, about 6' in 1000' towards Goschenen and 2' in 1000' 
towards Airolo. The work was begun in June 1872, at Goschenen, 
and a month later at Airolo, and the boring was completed on 
29th Feb. 1880. During seven years and a half no fewer than 
2500 workmen were on an average employed here daily, and the 



106 //. Route 30. AIROLO. From Lucerne 

number sometimes rose to 3400. The cost was 56 3 /4 million fr. 
(2,270,000i.). The tunnel, 28' broad and 21' high, is lined with 
masonry throughout, and is laid with a double line of rails. In the 
interior there is always a strong current of air; temperature 70° Fahr, 
The tunnel runs at a depth of 1083' below Andermatt, 6076' below 
the Kastelhorn (which rises above the centre of the tunnel), and 
3350' below the Sella Lake. Express trains take 16 min. to pass 
through the tunnel, slow trains 25 min. ; lanterns are placed on 
each side of the tunnel at intervals of 1000 metres (even numbers 
on the right, uneven on the left). To the right above the exit from 
the tunnel fortifications have recently been erected. 

69i/ 2 M. Airolo (3755'; pop. 1749; *Posta, R., L. , & A. 
3-372, D. 4, B. I1/4 fr.; *H6t. Lombardi, *H6t. Airolo, R. & A. 
2'/2 fr-> Hot. des Alpes, Hot. Rossi, all near the station; Rail. Re- 
staurant), in the upper valley of theTicino [ValleLeventina, p. 108), 
the first Italian-Swiss village, rebuilt since a fire in 1877. The 
scenery retains its Alpine character until near Faido. 

Excursions (guides, Clem. Dotta and Basil Jori of Airolo). From 
Airolo to the picturesque Stalvedro Gorge (p. 107), 20 min.; to the Lom- 
bard Tower, 35 min. — Pizzo Rotondo (10,490'), the highest peak of the 
St. Gotthard, may be ascended from Airolo in 8-9 hrs. (difficult, for ex- 
perts only; guide 40 fr.). Drive or walk in the afternoon to (3 hrs.) 
AlVAcqua in Val Bedretto (p. 304; Inn), where the night is spent; steep 
ascent thence over grassy slopes, debris, and snow-fields to the (372 hrs.) 
Passo Bolondo (9515'), whence the rocky summit is reached in l'/2-2 hrs. 
by a difficult climb up a steep snowy couloir (foot-irons desirable) and 
over loose stones. The "View is extremely grand and picturesque. 

Passes (guide, Clem. Dotta of Airolo). Through the Val Bedretto and 
over the Nufenen Pass to the Valais, see p. 304; over the S. Qiacomo Pass 
(7572') to the Falls of the Tosa, see p. 309. Through the Val Canaria and 
over the Unleralp Pass (8303') to Andermatt (8 hrs.), fatiguing: the ascent 
very steep. Over the Bocca di Cadlimo (8337') to S. Maria (p. 368) in 8 hrs., 
attractive. — By Passo Bornengo to Val Maigels, see p. 367. Over the Sassello 
Pass to Val Maggia see p. 434. — To Val Maggla over the Fasso dei Sassi 
(about 8200'), interesting, but fit for steady climbers only (to Fusio 8 hrs.). 
From Airolo past the hamlet of Nante and the (2 hrs.) Alp Piscium (5630') 
to ( 3 /4 hr.) Comaschne (6234') and along precipitous rocky slopes, where the 
path entirely disappears, to the (2>/4 hrs.) pass, between the Poncione di 
Vespero and Poncione di Mezzodi, with fine retrospective view of the St. 
Gotthard mountains. Descent across steep grassy slopes (plenty of Edel- 
weiss) into the Val Maggia, to (2 hrs.) Corle and (»/ 4 hr.) Fusio (p. 434). 

Fkom Airolo to Disentis through the Val Piora (10 hrs., guide, 
unnecessary, to Piora 6, to S. Maria 10 fr. ; porter, at the Hotel Lombardi 
at Airolo , 15 c. per kilogramme up to Piora, 10 c. down ; horse to Piora, 
3 hrs., 12 fr.). Descending the St. Gotthard road for 3 / t M., we cross the 
Canaria to the left, and ascend to (20 min.) Madrauo (4110'). After y« hr. 
more the path ascends to the left to (20 min.) Brugnasco (4548'). It then 
runs at nearly at the same level, overlooking the picturesque valley of the 
Ticino, and afterwards through wood. From ( 3 /4 hr.) Altanca (4567'; Inn) 
we ascend to the left in zigzags past a small chapel to the (40 min.) Alp 
in Valle (a spring by the wayside). The rock below it bears a very ancient 
inscription. In the gorge to the right the Fossbach forms several pic- 
turesque waterfalls. Fine retrospect of the mountains of Ticino. We next 
cross a rocky saddle to the C/ahr.) sequestered Lake Ititom (6000'), on a 
hill to the left of which is the "Hotel Piora (R. 2, B. 1, D. 4, pens. 7-9 fr.), 
a health resort, suitable for a stay. Pine-woods close to the hotel; great 
variety of geological formations and of plants. Pleasant walks in the vicin- 



to Bellinzona. FAIDO. II. Route 30. 107 

ity; in secluded basins lie six small lakes, and there are fcrar others just 
beyond the ridges in the direction of the Val Cadlimo. Delightful view 
of the lake, the Ticino valley etc. from the Bella Vista (tyihr.); a more 
extensive prospect is enjoyed from Fongio (725T), 1 hr. farther (skirt the 
hillside to the W.). Another fine point is Camoghe (TOO 1 ; l 3 /4 hr.). — 
"Taneda (8760"), an easy ascent of 2'/2 hrs. , past Lake Tom to the ridge 
separating Val Piora from Val Cadlimo, between Taneda and Punta Nera, 
where we keep to the right to the broad summit. The splendid view com- 
mands the Val Piora, the Val Bedretto and the Alps of Valais, Bern, XJri, 
Ticino, and the Grisons. — Other interesting points near Val Piora are the 
Punta Neva (8925'; 23/4 hrs.), Corandoni (8733'; 3 hrs.), Piz delV Uomo (9020'; 
3'/2 hrs.), \Pizzo Lucomagno (9115'; 5 hrs.) and 'Piz Bias (9920 1 ; 5'/2 hrs.). 
— The path to S. Maria (3 3 /< hrs.; porter 7 fr.) leads round the lake, 
to the left. By the (20 min.) Ritom Chalets we ascend the slope to 
the left by a good path to the (20 min.) chapel of S. Carlo. Crossing 
the brook, and passing a cross on the right (leaving the small lake of 
Cadagno, with its chalets to the left), we reach (!/4 hr.) the Alp Piora, 
and O/4 hr.) Murinascio, a group of huts. The path, indicated by crosses, 
leads straight on for '/4 hr., and then ascends to the left. Farther on it 
always bears to the left. [The last huts of Piano de' Porci lie to the 
right, below us. Persons bound for Olivone may from this point cross 
direct by the Passo Columbe (7792'), between the Scat and Piz Columbe, to 
the Casaccia hospice; p. 369.] We ascend the secluded Val Termine, 
with the Piz dell" Uomo (9020') on the left, to the ( 3 A hr.) summit of the 
Homo Pass (7257'; 10 min. before reaching which we pass a good spring 
by a heap of stones), with its deserted hut. Descent on the other side 
marshy at places. To the left, the Medelser Rhine descends from the Val 
Cadlimo in a copious waterfall. Before us to the right rises the Scopi, to 
the left in the distance the Todi chain. The (IV2 hr.) Hospice of St. Maria, 
see p. 368. Thence to Disentis, or across the Lukmanier to Olivone, see R. 95. 

Below Airolo the train crosses the Ticino, which descends from 
the Val Bedretto (p. 304), passes through the Stalvedro Tunnel 
(209 yds.), and enters the Stretto di Stalvedro. On the left bank of 
the Ticino the high-road runs through four rock-cuttings. The 
valley expands. 73 M. Ambri-Piotta (3250'; Restaurant Soldini ; 
Brasserie Piotta). To the left lies Quinto. Beyond (76 M.) Kodi- 
Fiesso (3100' ; Hotel Monte Piottino) we come to one of the most 
curious parts of the line (comp. the map, p. 104). The Platifer 
(Monte Piottino) here projects into the valley from the N. ; the 
Ticino has forced its passage through the harrier, descending in a 
series of falls through a wild rocky gorge to a lower region of the 
valley, while the railway accomplishes the descent by means of two 
circular tunnels. At Dazio Grande it crosses the Ticino (striking 
view down the valley), is carried through the Dazio Tunnel and 
the short Artoito Tunnel , and enters the Freggio Loop Tunnel 
(1712 yds.), from which it emerges into the Piottino Ravine, 118' 
lower down. It then recrosses the Ticino (fine scenery) , passes 
through the Monte Piottino and Pardorea tunnels , and descends 
118' more by means of the Prato Loop Tunnel (1711 yds.), beyond 
which opens the beautiful valley of Faido. Crossing the Ticino by 
the Polmengo Bridge, and beyond another tunnel, we reach — 

81 M. Faido (2485'; pop. 991 ; *H6t.-Pens. Suisse, *H6t. Faido, 
both at the station; *Angelo, R. & A. 2^2) pens. 6-8 fr. ; *H6t.- 
Pens. Fransioli, pens., incl.wine, 7fr. ; Princeof "Wales; Hot. Vella; 



108 II. Route 30. BIASCA. 

Restaurant Belgeri; Birraria Rosiari), the capital of the Leventina, 
very picturesquely situated, and frequented as a summer-resort. On 
the right the Piumogna descends to the Ticino in a fine waterfall. 

The Valle Leventina , or Valley of the Ticino , formerly belonged in 
common to the thirteen confederated cantons (with the exception of Appen- 
zell), and was governed in the most despotic manner by bailiffs, who 
purchased their appointment at auction. A revolt broke out in 1755, bnt 
was suppressed with the aid of the Swiss troops. The French put an end 
to this mode of government in 1798, and in 1815 the Congress of Vienna 
formed the Leventina and other Italian districts into the new canton of 
Tessin or Ticino. 

From Faido over the Predelp Pass to the Lukmanier, see p. 369; over 
the Campolungo Pass to the Val Maggia, see p. 434. 

The train now carries us through beautiful scenery, richly wood- 
ed with walnut and chestnut trees, on the left bank of the Ticino ; 
the numerous campanili in the Italian style, crowning the hills, have 
a very picturesque effect. To the right lies Chiggiogna, with an old 
church. From the cliffs on both sides fall several cascades, the veil- 
like fall of the Cribiasca on the right, near (85!/ 2 M.) Lavorgo (2025'), 
being the finest. Huge masses of rock lie scattered about, inter- 
spersed with fine chestnut-trees. Below Lavorgo the Ticino forces its 
way through the picturesque Biaschina Ravine to a lower region 
of the valley, and forms a fine waterfall, while the railway descends 
about 300' on the left bank by means of two loop-tunnels, one be- 
low the other in corkscrew fashion. We pass through the La Lume 
Tunnel, cross the Pianotondo Viaduct (114 yds. long), and then enter 
the Pianotondo Loop Tunnel (1643 yds.; descent of 115'). Next 
follow the short Tourniquet Tunnel, the Travi Viaduct, and the 
Travi Loop Tunnel (1706 yds.; descent of 118'), from which we 
emerge upon the floor of the lower Valle Leventina. Crossing the 
Ticino, we next reach — 

90 M. Giornico (1480'). The large village (1295'; Posta, Vervo, 
both well spoken of), picturesquely situated among vineyards on the 
left bank, iy 4 M. to the S., has an old Lombard tower and remains 
of fortifications near the church of S. Maria di Castello. The early 
Romanesque church of S. Niccolb da Mira is said to occupy the site 
of a heathen temple. Below Giornico the train crosses the Ticino 
by a bridge 132 yds. long. On the right is the pretty fall of the 
Cramosina. — 94M.Bodio (1090'; Posta). Beyond Polleggio (Corona) 
the Brenno descends from the Val Blenio (p. 370) on the left, and is 
crossed by two bridges. The valley of the Ticino now expands and 
takes the name of Riviera down to the mouth of the Moesa. Luxuriant 
vines, chestnuts, walnuts, mulberries, and fig-trees now remind the 
traveller of his proximity to 'the garden of the earth, fair Italy'. The 
vines extend their dense foliage over wooden trellis-work supported 
by stone pillars, 6-10' in height. 

98 M . Biaaca (970' ; Rail. Restaurant ; in the village, 12 min. 
to the N., Union $ Paste, unpretending), with an old Romanesque 
church on a hill (1112'). A series of oratories near tlic station as- 



GOSCHENEN-THAL. II. Route 31. 109 

cends to the Petronilla Chapel, near ■which is a pretty waterfall. — 
To Olivone, and over the Lukmanier to Disentis, see R. 95. 

The train skirts the base of the richly clothed E. slopes of the 
valley, which is very hot and dusty in summer, and traverses two 
tunnels. lOl^M. Osogna(870'; Postd) lies at the foot of an abrupt 
rock with a rounded summit. 105 M. Claro (830') lies at the base 
of the Pizzo di Claro (8920'), a beautiful mountain with luxuriant 
pastures, on the slope of which, on a projecting eminence to the 
left, stands the monastery of S. Maria (2074'). Beyond (107i/ 2 M.) 
Castione (800') the train passes the mouth of the Val Mesocco (p. 380) 
and crosses the Moesa. To the left lies Arbedo (p. 380). We pass 
through a short tunnel and approach Bellinzona, with its three old 
castles. 

109 M. Bellinzona (760'), see p. 425. 

From Bellinzona to Lugano and Como, see p. 426 ; to Locarno, 
see p. 432; to Laveno, see p. 435. 

31. From Goschenen to Airolo over the St. Gotthard. 

22 M. Diligence from Goschenen to Andermatt twice daily in 1 hr. 
(fare 1 fr. 40, coupe" 1 fr. 70 c.) j to Bospenthal twice in l'/s-l'A hr. (2 fr. 10 
or 2 fr. 55 c). No diligence from Hospenthal over the St. Gotthard. Omni- 
buses from, the Goschenen station to the Andermatt (I-IV2 fr.) and Hospen- 
thal hotels (2 fr.). Carriage and pair from Goschenen to Andermatt or 
Hospenthal 10, to the Hospice 35, to Airolo 60 fr. ; from Andermatt to the 
Hospice 30, to Airolo 50 fr. ; from Hospenthal to the Hospice 25 (there 
and back 30 fr.), to Airolo 45 fr. Carriage with one horse from Goschenen 
to Andermatt or Hospenthal 6 fr. ; from Hospenthal to the Hospice 15 
(there and hack 25 fr.), to Airolo 25 fr. Driver's fee, 10 0/0 of the fare. 

The St. Gotthard was probably the most frequented of the Alpine 
passes down to the beginning of this century, hut being crossed by a 
bridle-path only it was gradually deserted for the new roads over the Sim- 
plon, the Spliigen, and the Bernardino. In 1820-32 the cantons of Uri 
and Ticino constructed the carriage-road, which for half-a-centnry was the 
scene of busy traffic ; but since the completion of the railway it has again 
become deserted. Travellers will, however, be repaid by a drive in an 
open carriage or a walk over the pass. On foot from Goschenen to Ander- 
matt 1 hr. 10 min. ; thence to Hospenthal, 3 /t hr. ; thence to the Hospice, 
2'/4 hrs. ; and thence to Airolo, 2 3 / 4 hrs. or by footpaths, l 3 j t hr. Those 
whose chief object is to make excursions from the Hospice will reach it 
more quickly from Airolo than from Goschenen (telephone). 

Goschenen (3640'), on the St. Gotthard Railway, see p. 105. 

The GSschenen-Thal (3 hrs. to the Gbschener-Alp, guide unnecessary; 
provisions should be taken) deserves a visit. A good path leads by Ab- 
frull to (l»/4 hr.) Wicki (43500, where the Voralpthal opens to the right 
(see p. 110); then by St. Niklaus and the Brindlistaffel (5043') to the (l 3 /4 hr.) 
Gbschener-Alp (6040 ; rustic Inn, with beds ; guides must he brought from 
Goschenen), grandly situated. To the W. descends the beautiful Damma- 
firn from the Winterberg range (which culminates in the Dammastock and 
Rhonestock) ; and 1 hr. farther up the valley the Goschenen-Reuss issues 
from the Kehle Glacier, imbedded between the Winterberg and Steinberg. 
— A moderately easy and very interesting path (5'/j-6 hrs., guide 15 fr.) 
leads from the Gbschenen-Alp over the Alpligen Glacier and the Alpligen- 
Lucke (9110'), between the Lochberg and Spitzberg (p. 116), to Realp (p. 116). 
The "Lochberg (10,130'), which affords a splendid view of the Galenstock 
and St. Gotthard groups etc., is easily ascended in 3 /i hr. from the pass. — 



110 II. Route 31. SCHOLLENEN. From Goschenen 

Several difficult passes, fit for experts only, cross from the Gbschener-Alp 
to the Rhone and Trift Glaciers (Winterjoch, Dumma Pass, Maasplankjoch; 
comp. p. 128J. Over the Susten-Limmi (10,180') or the Thierberg-Limmi (about 
10,500') to the Steinalp, 9 hrs., laborious (see p. 128). — Ascent of the 
Fleckistock (SpiUliberg, 11,215'; 7-8 hrs., guide 35 fr.) for experts only, 
difficult. We ascend from Wieki (p. 109) through the Voralpthal, past the 
chalets of Hornfeli, Bodmen, and Flachenstein to the (2 l /2 hrs.) Voralpthal 
But of the Swiss Alpine Club (6890'), finely situated at the foot of the 
Wallenbilhlfivn; thence we mount to the right to the Fliihen (78740, and 
over loose stones and steep rocks to the summit (5 hrs. from the club-hut). 

Above the Goschenen station the *St. Gotthabd Road crosses 
the Reuss by the Vordere, or Haderli-Brucke (3720'). On the left 
are the railway-bridge and the N. end of the great tunnel. Here, 
l li M. beyond Goschenen , begins the sombre rocky defile of the 
*Schollenen (2y 2 M. long), bounded by lofty and almost perpendic- 
ular granite rocks, at the base of which dashes the Reuss. The road 
ascends by numerous windings, most of which may be cut off by 
footpaths or the old bridle-path passing the dilapidatedLanjre Briicke 
(a little above are the Goschenen water-works, with a considerable 
waterfall), and crossing the (1 M.) Sprengibriick (4048'). The 
road in the Schollenen is much exposed to avalanches, and at one of 
the most dangerous points is protected by a gallery, 60yds. long, at 
the farther end of which is the bull's head of Uri. 

The road next crosses (3 M. from Goschenen) the (II/2 M.) *Devil's 
Bridge (Teufelsbrucke, 4593'), amidst wild and grand rocky scenery. 
The Reuss here falls in a picturesque cascade into an abyss 100' be- 
low, bedewing the bridge with its spray. The wind (aptly called 
'Hutschelm', or 'hat-rogue', by the natives) sometimes comes down 
the gorge in violent gusts, and endangers the hats of the unwary. 
The new bridge, built of granite in 1830, has a single arch of 26' 
span. The old bridge, 20' below, fell in 1888. Bloody contests be- 
tween the French and the Austrians, and the French and Russians 
under Suvoroff took place here in Aug. and Sept. 1799, with the 
result that the former were compelled to retreat to the Lake of 
Lucerne. 

Beyond the Devil's Bridge (cabaret ; good collection of St. Gott- 
hard minerals) the road winds upwards, passing a chapel and a 
new fort (see below), to the (i/ 4 M.) Urner Loch (4642'), a tunnel 
70 yds. long cut through the rock in 1707, originally broad enough 
for a bridle-path only. Prior to 1707 a hanging chain-bridge, called 
the Staubende Briicke, conducted the traveller round the Teu- 
felsstein, through a constant shower of spray. Both above and below 
the Urner Loch, as well as at Andermatt and Hospenthal, strong 
fortifications have recently been erected ; while new roads have been 
made from the Devil's Bridge to the Bazberg and from the Oberalp 
to the top of the Musch, two points commanding fine views. 

The Valley of tfrseren, upon which the road emerges from the 
dark Liner Loch, presents a striking contrast to the wild region 
just traversed. This peaceful valley (p. HIS), with its green pastures 



K*£$°% ^3feo* g r 




' S'afie] 



St'iirm A a.\iA 
&2. 



G w 



., ,' >. V% ^-'\ v -' fkati 



. ^ Oronswlcs,- 



K. 



_ Fieri 

, ^j«4 i: 



Veist-SrHUii ToTl ,„.». 
\ Steuijvaus- ■ Sat** JjU, tjhiugtajfe 



7 - • «*^ y^ 



G elm«rr- 
WamrfaH A. 

JTandeiek '. *• 
AiTloihorn > <*" "*'■ 
-''""* £ V '''>■ Schnribh? 



BostSe. 



~ GtV. 

Duunantstock 

JuclOistock 

jmnfl 

hi ujuun.1 u 

rjn,teraa.s ,. Wntpriair-A . _. . 

*<^ ^i/l_ Grinisel 

Di'srfKtnck ■ . , 

y,mkrnstock / 

Ob <■££*,-- Alp Bin 

; ( ;b f r^ tlf .ijfll V01 




Bl'mfc , 

Ml t 



l*,, L S n ei.s -^V. %»■ a« \ 

r -Cr - 

i 



jSjiert 



SilmtTie 



r.ott^rupKAnstall Tan 



r. 110.001: 






M 



& 



Jodv 



Shirklistock 



Siistenti 3 ?- * 

^Z \ FlerMstodt 
li/Bri&nrtitetpck^ <? (&_ 

#Tff &? * *1 ? Chihlaatc* 4 

Smteniurujo.- tPHarJwiLrtebis. 'v 

-r p . * 

HornfeUr *\BprnfeU- 





"Meiqqeltmstorti 

1 Iffc-jtafc 



SCoct-a. 



st. 






""* SVBaTmjtock 
SSMkh 



IJeschiyie 



,Mfru&_ 



arfe y 



oy™ 



C 

£ 5 



■■■"iris . '-J^jd^ stfllfelK. 

" G « c ^ 

r 






'-" 



* Alpliqe-n 





J. . 
"^ .a, b* dieSpttee 



..Kit- . 



" ! . A- 

nipenthaL'^ 



TiefenuUWhs. ^ S> 'jxa 



Mimdorf 



pfci»i^.rtay 



ve> 



.tit 



ealp -5. 

^>inta-W(ROrsino)| 












G ^ '£*# 



5 ?*^ ]&iskn«wTi 

itoniera < $ \ jgSBU 



°< 






77*' it SclTwiiTze- Maa/rren- /■ M "A, 
/ »V A- / /'iff ■ 

v rn\stcrrt. m , . ,« / \W 

»} x A. /0ba--SwKrn9 EdfUtJoifio Caxtonia-i 



L^.^Btoi* 



X^Prosa _ 



life" ^ .ifcrM^^Tv^K A' 2> Sorftvci«; 



Engl.Jfiles 







to Airolo. ANDERMATT. II. Route 31. Ill 

watered by the Reuss, is about 8 M. in length and V2-I M. in 
breadth, and is surrounded by lofty and barren mountains partially 
covered with snow. Corn grows here but scantily, and trees are 
scarce. Winter lasts nearly eight months, and during the short 
summer fires are often necessary. — % jj_ — 

4 M. Andermatt. — Hotels: *H6t.-Pens. Bellevde, a large house, 
in an open situation, V4 M. from the village, R., L., & A. 4'/2-6, B. li/ 2 , 
lunch 3V2, D. 5 fr. (Engl. Church Service); adjacent, Hdtel-Restaurant dw 
Touriste, moderate ; opposite, H6t.-Pens. Nager, small ; "Grand H6tel Ander- 
matt & Pens. Obekalp, at the upper end of the village; "St. Gotthard, 
R., L., & A. 3'/2, D. 4 fr. ; -Drei Konige, R. & A. 2'/2, B. li/ 4 , D. 21/2 fr. ; 
"Krone, R., L., & A. 2 fr. ; Sonne. 

Andermatt (4738'; pop. 711), or Urseren, Ital. Orsera, iy 4 M. 
from the Devil's Bridge , the principal village in the valley, is a 
winter resort of invalids. Adjoining the church is a charnel-house 
adorned with skulls bearing inscriptions. At the exit of the Urner 
Loch, beside the cliffs to the left, is a much older church said 
to date from the time of the Lombards (recently restored and embell- 
ished with ceiling-frescoes representing the spread of Christianity 
in the Urseren valley). The Mariahilf chapel affords a good survey : 
to the W. rises the barren grey Bazberg, in the background the Furka 
with its inn , to the left the Muttenhorn ; a few paces beyond the 
chapel, the Six-Madun, or Badus (see below), is visible; to the E. 
in long zigzags ascends the road over the Oberalp (p. 367). St. Gott- 
hard minerals sold by Frau Meyer-Muller. 

From Andermatt over the Oberalp to Coire, see R. 94; over the Furka 
to the Rhone Glacier, see R. 33. 

The Badus, or Six-Madun (9615'), the huge outpost of the Alps of the 
Grisons, is ascended from Andermatt in 4V2-5hrs. (toilsome; guide 15fr. ; from 
Tschamut easier and shorter, p. 367). The summit, which consists of blocks 
of gneiss, commands numberless peaks of the Alps of the Grisons, Bern, and 
the Valais, and the whole of the Vorder-Rheinthal. The descent may be 
made to the Toma See in the valley of the Rhine (to Sedrun, 4hrs., comp. 
p. 367). — The Ourschenstock (9423'; 4 hrs. ; guide 15 fr.) and Gamsstock 
(9728' ; 4 J /2 hrs. ; guide 12 fr.) are also fine points of view (guide nec- 
essary). — Over the Unteralp Pass to Airolo (8 hrs.), see p. 106. 

Between Andermatt and Hospenthal we observe the Glacier of 
St. Anna, high above the brow of the mountain to the left. 

51/2 M. Hospenthal (4800' ; *Meyerhof, R., L., & A. 3-4, B. l'/ 2 , 
lunch 3, D. 4-5, pens. 7-12 fr. ; *Goldner Lowe, It., L. & A. % B. 
ll/ 4 , D. 3 fr. ; Post; Schafli, unpretending) was formerly the seat 
of the barons of Hospenthal , of whose castle the ancient tower on 
the hill is a relic. Eng. Ch. Service in summer. The Furka Bond 
(R. 33) diverges to the right beyond the village. 

The St. Gotthard road ascends in numerous windings through a 
bleak valley, on the left bank of that branch of the Reuss which 
descends from the Lake of Lucendro (see below). A short-cut di- 
verges to the left by the second house beyond the Reuss bridge. 
Pleasant retrospects of the Urseren-Thal and the jagged peaks of 
the Spitzberge (p. 116), as far as the Galenstoek to the W. To the 
left of the bleak (3 M.~) Gamsboden opens the abrupt Guspis-Thal, 



112 II. Route 31. ST. GOTTHARD. From Goschenen 

at the head of which are the Guapis Glacier and the Pizzo Centrale 
(see below). At a bend in the road ( 3 / 4 M.) is the first Cttntoniera 
(Y>871)'; closed), at the foot of the Winterhorn, or Piz Orsino (8747'). 
The road enters Canton Ticino, passes the dilapidated second Can- 
toniera, and crosses theReuss for the last time, near its outflow from 
the Lake of Lucendro (to the right; not visible), by the (3 M.) Ro- 
dont Bridge (6620'). 

To the "Lake of Lucendro (6835') a digression of V2 nr - only. The 
path diverges below the Rodont Bridge (on the left hank), leads over masses 
of rock to the (15 min.) beautiful green lake, environed with snow-peaks 
and glaciers , and skirts its N. bank. To the S. rises Piz Lucendro (9708'), 
to the W. the Ywerberhorner (9265'), Piz deW Uomo (8820'), etc. — The 
path crosses the Reuss at its exit from the lake, and rejoins the St. Gott- 
hard road near the top of the pass. 

On the (1 M.) Pass of St. Gotthard (6935'j the road passes 
between several small lakes. 

The St. Gotthard is a mountain-group, 160 sq. M. in area, with a 
number of different peaks, extensive glaciers, and about thirty small lakes. 
The pass is a barren depression, destitute of view, bounded on the E. by the 
precipitous Sasso di S. Gottardo (8235'), and on the W. by the rocks of the 
Fibbia (8995') and the Pizzo la Valletta (8334'). The chief peaks of the St. 
Gotthard are : E„ the Prosa (8983') and P. Centrale (9850' ; see below) ; W., the 
Piz Lucendro (9708'), Ywerberhorn (9265'), Piz delV Uomo (8820'), and Winter- 
horn or Piz Ortino (8747') ; then, more to the W., the Leckihorn (10,070'), 
Multenhorn (10,184'), Pizzo Pesciora (10,250'), Pizzo Rotondo (10,490), Kiih- 
bodenhorn (10,080'), etc. 

133/4 M. Albergo del S. Gottardo (6867'), i/ 4 M. to the S. of the 
culminating point, is a 'dependance' of the Hotel du Mont Prosa 
which stands opposite (telephone to Airolo). The latter is adjoined 
by the Hospice. On a rock a little to the S. is the old Mortuary Chapel. 

Excursions (guides for the shorter ascents at the hotel). Pizzo Cen- 
trale , or Tritthorn (9850' ; 3y 2 hrs. ; guide 10 fr.), not difficult. Beyond 
the hospice we cross the brook to the left, and ascend the slope of the 
Sasso San Gottardo over detritus to the entrance of the Sella Valley, 
through which the route leads. To the left Mte. Prosa (see below). We 
skirt the slope high above the Sella Lake (7320') and ascend snow-fields 
to the base of the peak, which consists of crumbling hornblende. The 
"View is one of striking magnificence, embracing almost all the highest 
mountains in Switzerland (Panorama by A. Heim). The ascent may also 
be made from Hospenthal in about 5 hrs., via the Gamtboden and the 
Gmpisthal (see above). — Monte Prosa (8983'; 2>/2 hrs.; guide 7 fr.), less 
interesting. By the hut above the Sella Lake (I1/4 hr.) we diverge to the 
left from the Pizzo Centrale path, and ascend across poor pastures and 
patches of snow to the (3/ 4 hr.) saddle (8520') between the Prosa and Blau- 
berg. Thence to the left, up the arete, and lastly over sharp rocks 
to C/s hr.) the summit. The W. peak, 41' higher than the E., is separated 
from it by a chasm 20' deep. 

The Fibbia (8995'; 2y 2 hrs.; guide 7 fr.), a gigantic rock which com- 
mands the St. Gotthard road on the \V. and descends suddenly to the Val 
Tremola, is fatiguing. Excellent survey of the St. Gotthard group, the 
valley of the Ticino, and the Ticino Alps. — *Piz Lucendro (9708'; 3'/2- 
4 hrs. ; guide, 10 fr., unnecessary for the experienced), a fine point, free 
from difficulty. From the Lucendro Lake (see above) we ascend by the 
Lucendro Alp and the depression between the Ywerberhorner and the 
Pizzo la Valletta to the Lucendro Glacier and gradually mount to the rocky 
summit. — Leckihorn (10,070'), see p. 113. — Pizzo Rotondo (10,490'), the 
highest peak of the St. Gotthard, from tin' Hotel Prosa 7-8 hrs. (guide 
30 fr.), difficult. We follow the Lecki Pass route (sro p. 113) past the Pie 



to Airolo. ST. GOTTHARD. II. Route 31. 113 

Lueendro to the Wyttenwasser Glacier, ascend to the left to the Wyttenwasser 
Pass (9365') and skirt the precipitous slopes of the Pizzo Eotondo to the 
Passo Eotondo (9515'), whence we climb to the left to the summit (p. 106). 

To the Sorescia or Scara Orell (7350') , a pleasant excursion (1 hr.). 
We descend the road to the S. to the Ticino bridge, and beyond it ascend 
a narrow path to the left. Fine view, especially of the Ticino Alps, the 
Cristallina, Campo Tencia, Basodino, etc. Descent to the Sella valley un- 
advisable, there being no bridge over the Ticino. 

Passes. Oveb the Oesino Pass to Realp, not difficult (4V2hrs. ; adepts 
need no guide). We ascend either from the Rodont Bridge (p. 112) across 
the stony Rodont Alp and past the Orsino Lake (7515 1 ), or from the Lueendro 
Lake to the N.W. over grassy slopes, past the Orsirora Lake (8058'; to the 
left) to the Orsino Pass (about 8530'), S.W. of Piz Orsino (p. 112) ; striking 
view (S.) of the St. Gotthard group from the Furka to the Fibbia, (N.W.) 
of the Finsteraarhorn and Agassizhorn, and (N.) of the Galenstock and 
Dammastock range as far as the Sustenhorner and Titlis. Descent over 
the pastures of the Eisenmanns-Alp and through brushwood to Realp (p. 116). 

Ovek the Lecki Pass to the Fukka (10 hrs., guide 30 fr.), fatiguing, 
but repaying. From the Lueendro Lake to the Lueendro Glaciers see above; 
thence across the depression to the N. of Piz Lueendro (ascent highly 
recommended, see above) to the Wyttenwasser-Thal and the Cavanna Pass 
(p. 116). We then traverse the Wyttenwasser Glacier, pass the Huhnerstock, 
and reach (5V2-6 hrs.) the Lecki Pass (9555'), lying to the N. of the Lecki- 
horn (10,070' ; easily ascended from the pass in V2 hr.). Descent across the 
Mutten Glacier, past the Muttenhorner ; then an ascent between the Thier- 
berg and Blauberg to the small Schwdrze Glacier, and down to the &h hrs.) 
Furka Hotel (p. 117). — Or we may from the Wyttenwasser Glacier proceed 
to the Wyttenwasser Pass and the Passo Rotondo (see above) and thence 
descend to AW Acqua in Val Bedretto (p. 304; 10 hrs. from the Hotel 
Prosa, an interesting expedition for experienced mountaineers). 

From the Hospice to Airolo is a walk or drive of 2-2 J /2 hrs. ; 
in the reverse direction 3 hours. In winter and spring the snow- 
drifts on the road-side are often 30-40' high, and sometimes remain 
unmelted throughout the summer. Snow-storms and avalanches are 
most prevalent on the S. side. 

About y 2 M. to the S.E., below the hospice, the road crosses 
that branch of the Ticino which issues from the Sella Lake (see 
p. 112), and enters the Val Tremola, a dismal valley into which 
avalanches often fall, and descends past the Cantoniera 8. Giu- 
seppe (6010') in numerous windings , avoided by the old bridle- 
path. Rich Alpine flora. At the Cantoniera di Val Tremola (5564') 
the Val Tremola ends and the Valle Leventina (p. 108) begins. 
*View down to Quinto. To the right opens the Val Bedretto (p. 304), 
from which the main branch of the Ticino descends. 

22M. Airolo (3755'), 8i/ 2 M. from the St. Gotthard Pass, see p. 106. 

Travellers going from the St. Gotthard to the Val Bedretto need not 
descend to Airolo, but save an hour by leaving the road below the Can- 
toniera di Val Tremola (see abovej, at the angle of the first great bend 
in the direction of the Val Bedretto. The path descends to the right, and 
at Fontana (p. 304) joins the road leading from Airolo to All'Acqua. 

32. The Maderaner Thai. 

Comp. Map, p. 62. 
The 'Maderaner Thai, a picturesque valley about 8 II. in length, 
enclosed by lofty mountains (N., the Great and Little Windgiille, the Great 
Baedekee, Switzerland. 15th Edition. 8 



114 I/. Route 32. MADERANER THAL. 

and Little Ruchen, and the Scheerhorn; S., the Brittenstock, Weitenalpstock, 
Oberalpstock, and Dilssistock), and watered by the turbulent Karstelenbach, 
is worthy of a visit. Bridle-path (shaded in the early morning) from 
Amsteg to the (3>/« hrs.) HStel Alpenclub (303CC above Amsteg ; horse 12 fr. ; 
porter 6, there and back within two days 12 fr.). Beautiful return-route 
via the Stafeln (see below), 6-7 hrs., practicable even for ladies. 

Amsteg (1760'), see p. 104. "We diverge from the St. Gotthard 
road on the left hank of the Karstelenbach and ascend, passing under 
the huge railway-bridge, by a good zigzag path to the St. Antons- 
Kapelle ; then over gently sloping pastures, shaded with fruit-trees, 
to (50 min.) the hamlet of Bristen (2615'; Cafe" Fedier, with gar- 
den, beyond the chapel, to the right). The path descends a little, 
crosses by an (5 min.) iron bridge to the right bank of the foaming 
Karstelenbach, and again ascends. After 7 min. we avoid a bridge 
to the right, leading to the narrow Etzlithal (see p. 116), in which 
a fine waterfall is visible. After 20 min. the path recrosses to the 
left bank and leads to the (5 min.) houses Am Schattigen Berg. It 
then ascends rapidly to (40 min.) the top of the Lungenstutz (3600' ; 
two small inns), and (8 min.) a cross commanding a fine view. 
Passing through wood at places, we next cross the Oriessenbach and 
the Staldenbach to (^rir-) the chalets of Stossi (3904 r ). Crossing 
the Karstelenbach at a (5 min.) Saw-mill, and passing the houses 
of Balmwald on the left, in 25 min. more we reach the *H6tel 
zumSchweizer Alpenclub (4790'; R., L., & A. 3, D. 4, pens. 8-10 fr., 
Engl. Church Service^, adapted for a stay of some time. Fine view 
from the terrace on the W. side of the house. Pleasant wood- 
walks in the vicinity. About Y2 M. from the hotel is the small 
Butzli-See. 

To the Hufi Glacier, an interesting walk (1 hr., guide unnecessary). 
From the inn a path , at first through wood, ascends the grassy slopes 
on the N. side of the valley (passing opposite the falls of the Brunni- 
bach, the Stauberbach, and the Ldmmerbach) , crosses the Schleierbach, 
the Seidenbach, and the Milchbache, and ascends to (1 hr.) a rocky height 
(5230'), overlooking the glacier (which has greatly receded), from which 
the Karstelenbach issues. We may now descend to the end of the glacier 
(guide necessary, 3-4 fr.) and return to the hotel on the left bank of the 
Karstelenbach, passing the waterfalls above mentioned, and crossing the 
Alp Gufem (3-4 hrs. in all). 

Beautiful return-route to Amsteg by the *Stafeln (6-7 hrs. ; 
guide 8 fr.), the lofty pastures on the N. side of the valley. The 
path first leads to the above-mentioned rock overlooking the Hun 
Glacier (1 hr.), and then ascends to the (1 hr.) Alp Qnof (6235'), 
the (3/ 4 hr.) Stafel-Alp (62900, and thr (i/ 4 hr.) Alp Bernetsmatt 
(6553' ; Alpine fare and accommodation ), commanding a magnificent 
view of the Hun Glacier, Clariden Pass, Dfissistock , Tschingel 
Glacier, Oberalpstock, Weitenalpstock, Crispalt, Bristenstock, Ga- 
lenstock, Spitzliberg, the Windgallen , and Ruchen. [A still finer 
view, especially of the conspicuous Windgallen. is commanded by 
the* Widderegg (7810'), ll/ 4 hr. from Bernetsmatt. with guide.] We 
then descend rapidly to the pretty Oolzern - See (4636') and the 
(1 hr.) doh-ern-Alpen{i!'i85'; excellent drinking-water), and lastly in 



MADERANER THAL. II. Route 32. 115 

zigzags through underwood to the hamlet of (lyjhr.) Bristen and 
(l/ 2 hr.) Amsteg (to the station l / t hr. more). 

Excdksions fkom the Hotel Alpenclub. (Guides : Ambr., Jost, and Jos. 
Zgraggen; Jos. Maria, Melch., and Jos. Tresch; A. Baumann; Jos. and 
Melchior Onos and others ; ordinary excursions, 6 fr. per day.) The ascent 
of the Diissistock (Piz Git, 10,702'; 6-7 hrs.; guide 25 fr.) is difficult and 
requires experience. The path leads up the Brunnithal to the (2 hrs.) 
Waltersfirren Alp (6330'), ascends to the left to the (2 hrs.) Resti-Tschingel 
Glacier, and crosses it; we then clamber over the precipitous rocks of the 
Kleine Diissi (10,280') and ascend the arete to the (2 hrs.) summit. Splendid 
view. — The Oberalpstock (Piz Tgietschen , 10,925'; guide 20 fr.) presents no 
serious difficulty to adepts. We either proceed from the Alpenclub Hotel 
to the upper part of the (4-5 hrs.) Brunni Glacier (see below), and ascend 
the snowy slopes, to the right, to the summit in 2-2Vz hrs. ; or cross from 
Amsteg to the tipper part of the Strimthal by the Kreuzli Pass (p. 116), 
and ascend across the Strim Glacier, reaching the summit from the S.E. 
side (7-8 hrs., from Sedrun 1 hr. less). — Weitenalpstock (9870'), 7 hrs., 
very toilsome. — Bristenstock (10,090'), see p. 104. — Piz Cambriales (10,590'), 
4-5 hrs. from the Hun Club-hut (see below) , and Claridenstock (10,730'; 
25 fr.), 5 hrs. from the club-hut, not very difficult for practised climbers. 
Kammlistock (10,787' ; 25 fr.), 5 hrs. from the club-hut, laborious. — The 
Grosse Windgalle or Kalkstock (10,463'), from the Alp Bernetsmatt (p. 114) 
5 hrs. (guide 30 fr.) and the Grosse Scheerhorn (10,815'), from the Hiifi 
Club-hut 6 hrs. (guide 25 fr.), both very difficult, require experience and 
thorongh steadiness. — Grosse Ruchen (10,295') , less difficult , but ex- 
tremely fatiguing (from the Alp Gnof, 6-7 hrs. ; guide 20 fr.). — The Kleine 
Windgalle (9800'), from the Alp Bernetsmatt by the arete between the 
Kleine and Grosse Windgalle in 3 l /2-4 hrs. (guide 20 fr.), is not very difficult. 

Passes. To Stachelbebg over the "Clariden Pass (9843'), 11-12 hrs. 
from the Alpenclub Hotel, a grand and most interesting expedition, presents 
no serious difficulty to experts with able guides (35 fr.). The route 
ascends the slopes of the Diissistock (see above), on the left bank of the Hiifi 
Glacier, to the (2V2hrs.) Club Hut on the finely situated Hiifi Alp (5905'; spend 
night). Then a steep ascent for a short distance, over the moraine to the 
(40 min.) Hiifi Glacier , and gradually up the Hiififirn and Claridenfirn to 
the (3-3'/2 hrs.) Pass at the S. base of the Claridenstock (10,730'), command- 
ing a fine view of the Todi, the Rheinwaldgebirge, etc. We then descend 
the Claridenfirn, passing the Bocktschingel , a rock with a hole through 
its middle, and the Gemsfayrenstock (p. 62), and through the difficult 
Wallenbach Gorge to the Altenorenalp , the Auengiiter (p. 62), and (5 hrs.) 
Stachelberg . Or from the Claridenfirn (keeping to the right before reach- 
ing the Clariden Pass) we may cross the Hiifi Pass (9645'), between 
the Hintere Spitzalpelistock (9852') and the Catscharauls (10,045'), to the 
Sandfirn, and then either descend to the left to the Upper Sandalp (p. 63) 
or to the right by the Sandgrat to Disentis (p. 365 ; guide 30 fr.). — Another 
pass to Stachelberg (12-13 hrs. from the Alpenclub Hotel; guide 30 fr.) is 
the Kammlilucke (9268'), lying between the Scheerhorn and the Kammlistock 
(see above). Descent over precipitous ice-slopes to the crevassed Gries Glacier, 
the Kammli Alp, and the Klausen Pass (p. 64). 

To Unterschachen over the Ruchkehlen Pass (8790'), 8-9 hrs., laborious 
(guide 25 fr.). From the Alp Gnof (p. 114) we ascend precipitous grass- 
slopes, rock, and glacier to the pass, between the Grosse and Kleine Ruchen, 
and descend steeply through the ice-clad Ruchkehle into the Brunnithal and 
Schachenthal (p. 64). — The Scheerhorn-Griggeli Pass (9180') is also toil- 
some. From the Hiifi Club-hut we mount the Hiifi Glacier and the Bock- 
tschingelfirn to the pass, between the Scheerhorn and the Kleine Ruchen, 
and descend to the Upper Lammerbach-Alp and Unterschachen. 

To Disentis over the Brunni Pass (8875') , 8 hrs., interesting but 
fatiguing (guide necessary, 25 fr.). We ascend the Brunnithal by Rinderbiel 
and Waltersfirren (see above) to the &h hrs.) Brunni-Alp (6990'), cross the 
Brunni Glacier to the (2 hrs.) pass between the Piz Cavardiras (9505') on 

8* 



116 II. Route 33. REALP. 

the left and the Piz <TAcletta (9570') on the right, and descend throngh the 
Val Acletta to Acletla and (3>/2 hrs.) Disentis (p. 365). 

From Amsteg over the Kreczli Pass (7645') to Sedrun, 8 hrs., fatig- 
uing. Through the Etzlithal to the pass, 5>/2 hrs. ; thence down the Strim- 
thal to Sedrun (p. 365), 2'/2 hrs. 

33. From Gdschenen to the Rhone Glacier. 
The Furka. 

Comp. Map, p. 110. 

25 31. Diligence in summer daily in 6'/2 hrs. (9 fr. 85, coupe 1 11 fr. 
85 c); from GOschenen to Brig daily in 12 (Brig to Goschenen 14) hrs., 
with V2 hour's halt at Tiefenhach, and dining at the Rhone Glacier (20 fr. 
65 c, coupe" 25 fr. 15 c). — Pedestrians should allow the following times 
from Goschenen: to Andermatt IV4, Realp 2, the Furka 3'/2 (return 2>/2), 
Rhone Glacier 2 (return 272) hrs. — House from Realp to Tiefenhach 5, 
Furka 8 fr. — Carriages: with one horse from Goschenen to Realp, 
10 fr. ; with two horses from Goschenen to Andermatt or Hospenthal 
10-15, the Furka 40-50 fr. (incl. fee), Gletsch 65, Fiesch 85, Brig 125 fr. ; 
from Andermatt to Realp 15, the Furka 40, Rhone Glacier 60, Fiesch 90, 
Brig 125 fr. ; from Hospenthal to Realp, with one horse 6, two horses 10, 
to Furka 20 (there and back 25) and 35, Rhone Glacier 30 and 50, Fiesch 50 
and 90, Brig 70 and 120 fr. ; from Realp to the Furka, with one horse 12, 
two horses 20 fr., Rhone Glacier 18 and 25 fr. ; from the Rhone Glacier 
to the Furka 15 fr. 

The 'Furka Road, constructed chiefly for military purposes, and form- 
ing a convenient route to or from the Grimsel and the Bernese Oberland, 
commands striking views of the Rhone Glacier and the neighbouring moun- 
tains, and from Realp onwards should be traversed in an open carriage 
or on foot. 

To (51/2 M.)Hospentkal (4800'), see pp. 110, 111. At the upper 
end of the village the road diverges to the right from the St. Gott- 
hard route, ascends a little, and skirts the level bank of the Realper 
Reuss in the bleak Urserenthal (p. 111). On each side rise steep 
grassy slopes, furrowed by numerous brooks, and overshadowed on 
the N. by the jagged pinnacles of the Spitzberye (10,053'). 2'/ 4 M. 
Zumdorf (4965'), a group of huts with a chapel. Farther on we 
cross the Reuss and the Lookback, which descends from the Tiefen- 
gletscher (p. 117), and soon reach (l 3 / 4 M.) — 

9y 2 M. Realp (5060'; '"Hot. des Alpes, plain; 'JBeim flospis' , with 
the post-station), a poor hamlet at the W. end of the Urseren Valley. 

Over the Alpligen-Liicke to (6 hrs.) the Ooschener-Alp, see p. 109 ; Orsino 
Pats to the St. Ootthavd, see p. 113. — From Realp to Villa in the Val 
Bedretto (p. 304) by the Cavanna Pass (85G5'), between the Piz Lucendro and 
Hilhnerstoch, 5 hrs., uninteresting. 

Beyond Realp the road begins to ascend in long windings, 
which the old road to the right, 50 paces beyond the second bridge, 
'/ 2 M. from Realp, avoids. (In descending from the Furka we 
quit the new road a few hundred paces beyond the 50th kilometre 
stone, and descend by a few steps to the left.) We soon obtain 
a fine retrospective view of the broad Urserenthal, with the zigzags 
of the Oberalpstrasse in the background (p. 367); on the left are 
the Wyttenwasse-rthal with the glacier of that name, the Ywer- 
berhorner, and the Piz Lucendro. At the last winding of the road 



FUEKA. II. Route 33. 117 

(Fuchsegg, 6595'), 3>/2M. from Realp, stands the small Hot.-Pens. 
Galenstock (R. 2, D. 31/2, pens. 6 fr.). About l l / 2 M. farther on, 
beyond the Ebneten-Alp , is Tiefenbach (6790' ; Hotel Tiefenglet- 
scher, well spoken of, D. 31/2, pens. 5-7 fr.), where the diligence 
halts some time. 

By following the slope from this point and crossing the moraine, we 
reach (IV4 hr. ; guide) the Tief en Glacier, imbedded between the Galenstock 
and the Oletschhorn (10,850'), where beautiful crystals (more than 12'/2 tons) 
were found in 1868 (p. 139). — Over the Tiefensatlel to the Rhone Glacier 
(Grimsel, Trifthiitle), see p. 128. — Over the Winterliicke (9450') to the 
Goichener-Alp (p. 109), 6hrs., with guide; descent to the Winter Glacier steep. 

The road crosses the Tiefentobel and ascends, running high up 
on the N. slope. The old bridle-path (not recommended) follows 
the Oarschenthal on the left, far below. On the right lies the 
Siedeln Olacier, the discharge of which forms a fine waterfall; 
above it rise the pinnacles of the Bielenstock (9670'). Before us 
rises the Furkahom (see below). The (3 M.) — 

I71/2 M. Furka (7990'; *H6t.-Pens. Furka, R., L., & A. 3-5, 
D. 4-5, pens. 9-12 fr. ; post and telegraph office) is a saddle 
between the Muttenhorner on the left and the Furkahorner on the 
right, descending abruptly on both sides. Magnificent view of the 
Bernese Alps with the imposing Finsteraarhorn, to the left of 
it the Oberaarhorn, Walliser Fiescherhorner , Siedelhorn, and 
"Wannehom, and to the right the Agassizhorn and Schreckhbrner. 
From the *Kanzli, about 1 M. from the hotel, we obtain a view 
also of the upper part of the Rhone Glacier and of the Upper Valais 
and its Alps (Mischabelhorner, Matterhorn, Weisshorn, etc.). 

Excursions. Turkahorn (9935'; 272 hrs.; guide 7 fr., not necessary for 
adepts), to the N. of the pass , by an easy bridle-path ; very interesting. 
Admirable panorama of the Alps of Bern and the Valais, the Galenstock, 
St. Gotthard group, etc. Not advisable to descend direct to the Rhone 
Glacier. — "Muttenhorn (10,180'; 3 hrs. ; guide 10 fr.), to the S. of the 
Furka, a very fine point, not difficult. 

Galenstock (11,805'; 5 hrs. ; guide 15 fr.), not difficult for adepts under 
favorable conditions of the snow (axe and rope required). From the Furka 
to the ( 3 /4 hr.) Rhone Glacier (see below) , skirt its left margin , climb a 
steep snowy slope to the right, follow a rocky arete, and lastly mount 
very steep ne've to the overhanging snowy summit (caution required). View 
exceedingly grand. 

From the Furka over the Lecki Pass to the St. Gotthard Sospice (10 brs., 
with guide), see p. 113; over the Trift-Limmi to the Trifthiitte, see p. 128. 

To the Gbimsel Hospice (p. 176), 5 hrs. (guide 10 fr. ; alpenstock and 
nailed boots requisite). Walkers may descend from the Furka by a good 
path, diverging to the right from the road 1 /i M. from the inn, to the 
( 3 /4 hr.) upper part of the Rhone Glacier, cross it above the ice -fall in 
IV2 hr., ascend the P/ 4 hr.) "Nageli's Gratli (8470'), affording a splendid view 
of the Bernese and Valaisian Alps, and descend to the (2 hrs.) Hospice. 
The path issues at the N. extremity of the small Grimsel lake (p. 176). 

The road follows the slope to the right to the (l l /4 M.) Qalen- 
hutten (7900') and descends to the left in long zigzags, high 
above the huge *Rhone Glacier (p. 303), affording admirable 
views of its fantastic ice-masses. At the second bend of the road 
is the small Hotel Belvedere (closed). A path leads hence in i / i hr., 
over the moraine, keeping to the left, to a point commanding the 



118 II. Route U. STANS. 

upper part of the glacier. In the valley we cross the Muttbach (the 
discharge of the Gratschlucht Glacier). The road is joined here on 
the left by the steep old bridle-path from the Furka. It then grad- 
ually descends the slope of the Langisgrat, and again describes 
several long bends, which the old bridle-path, to the right, cuts 
off. Crossing the infant Rhone, we reach the (6^4 M.) — 

25 M. *Rhone Glacier Hotel, in the 'Gletsch' (5750'; p. 303). 

From the Rhone Glacier to Brig , see p. 304; over the Grimsel to 
Meiringen, see R. 52. 

34. From Lucerne to Altdorf via Stans and 
Engelberg. The Surenen Pass. 

Comp. Map, p. 78. 

Steamboat from Lucerne to Stansstad 8 times daily in 40 min., fare 
1 fr. 40 or 80 c. (see p. 92). — Electric Tkamwat from Stansstad to (2 M.) 
Stans in 15 min. (40 or 20 c, there and back 65 or 35 c.). Diligence from 
Stans to (12 M.) Engelberg twice daily in 3 hrs. 5 min.; fare 4 fr., coupe 
5 fr. 40 c; one-horse carriage 15, two-horse 25 fr. — Walkers may dismiss 
their vehicle at Grafenort (7 31. from Stans, a drive of l'/4 hr., one- 
horse carr. 7-8, two-horse 12 fr.), beyond which the road is so steep that 
travellers usually alight and walk. (One-horse carr. from Beckenried to 
Engelberg, the route for travellers from the St. Gotthard, 15-18, two-horse 
25-30 fr.; see p. 80.) — From Engelberg to Altdorf over the Surenen Pass, 
rather fatiguing (bridle-path, 9 hrs.; guide, 14 fr., unnecessary in fine 
weather; travellers from Altdorf need a guide to the top of the pass 
only, 8 fr.). 

To Stansstad, see p. 93. The road (electric tramway, see above) 
leads round the S. base of the Bilrgenstock (p. 93), through orchards 
and pastures. 

2 M. Stans or Stanz (1510'; pop. 2458; Engcl; Krone, R. 1, B. 
1 fr. ; Rossli), the capital of Nidwalden , the K. half of Canton 
Unterwalden , lies in the midst of a vast orchard , on which, 
however, from 11th Nov. to 2nd Feb. the sun shines for one 
hour only in the morning, between the Hohe Brisen (7890') and 
the Stanserhorn (see below). Adjoining the handsome Parish Church 
is the *Monument of Arnold von Winkelried (p. 21), a fine group 
in marble by SchHith. A tablet by the Burial Chapel in the churchyard, 
on the N. side of the church, commemorates the massacre per- 
petrated here in 179rt by the French, who were exasperated by the 
obstinate resistance they met with. The Tou-n Hall contains por- 
traits of all the mayors from the year 1521 ; below them is a collec- 
tion of Unterwalden flags; also two French banners of 1798; a 
picture by the blind artist Wursrh , who perished in 1798; another 
by Volmar , representing Brother Klaus taking leave of his family 
(p. 123). In the studio of the late painter Deschwanden a number 
of his paintings are exhibited gratis. Fine view from the Knieri, 
above the Capuchin Monastery . 

The 'Stanser Horn (U230'j is a splendid point of views, scarcely inferior 
to Rigi and Pilatus. Cable railway (opened in July, 1893) in 50 min.; 
5 fr., return-ticket S fr. The line (42fi. r i yards in leneth : maximum gradient 



WOLFENSCHIESSEN. II. Route 3d. 119 

60 : 100) is divided into three sections , and carriages are changed twice. 
Each section has its own power house; the electric motors are supplied 
from the central station at Buochs. In the middle of each section is a 
crossing, where the ascending and descending cars pass each other; 
there is no toothed rail, but safety is warranted by strong automatic brake 
tongues. — The line ascends gradually (12 : 100) from the entrance of the 
village through luxuriant meadows, and farther on more rapidly (27 : 100) 
to the (13 min.) station of Kdlti (275'), where carriages are changed. The 
second section has a gradient at first of 40 : 100, afterwards of 60 : 100 ; 
the line ascends a wooded ravine, crosses a torrent, and intersects a deep 
cutting to the (13 min.) second station of Blumatt (4006'), whence it proceeds 
with the same gradient (3 : 5) through a tunnel (150 yds.) and over a lofty 
viaduct to the terminal station (6070'), near the new Motel Stanserhorn 
(opened in 1893). A good path leads hence to the top (60' higher), which 
commands an admirable 5 View ofthe Bernese Apps (with the Titlis rising 
in the foreground), the Lake of Lucerne and the hills of N.W. Switzerland. 

The road to (12 M.) Engelberg traverses the valley of the 
Engelberger Aa, between the Stanser Horn on the right and the 
Buochser Horn on the left. In the background rises the snow-clad 
Titlis. Near (2 M.) Dallenwyl we cross the Aa. On a mound of 
detritus at the mouth of the Steinbach, to the right, stands the 
church of the village. 

A good bridle-path, diverging to the left, ascends to (4V2 M. ; 6 M. 
from Stans via Nieder-Biiren ; one-horse carr. from Stansstad to Biiren in 
1 hr., 4 fr. ; from Buochs 5 fr.) the finely-situated health-resort of Nieder- 
rickenbach or Mariarickenbach (3830'; 'Kurhaus zv/m Engel, pens. 5-7 fr.). 
Hence to the Buochier Horn (5395'), l 3 /t hr., repaying; to the 'Steinalp- 
Brisen (7890'), 3 hrs., via. the Ahom-Alp and the Steinalp, interesting (guide 
not indispensable for adepts). Another attractive ascent is that of the 
Schwalmie (7373'; 3 hrs.; guide unnecessary), by the Ahom-Alp, the Barfalle 
(with a cross), and the Buhl-Alp, and thence up the E. arete. The des- 
cent may be made to (3 hrs.) Isenthal via the Jochli (see below). — An 
interesting pass (4 : /2-5 hrs., with guide) leads from Niederrickenbach by 
the Biihlalp (see above) and the Jochli (6925') between the Schwalmis and 
the Reissendstock, descending by the Bolgen-Alp and the Laueli to St. 
Jakob in the Isenthal (p. 85). 

l 3 /4 M. Wolfenschiessen (1710'; *Eintracht, unpretending, 
pens. ; Kreuz). Beside the church is the hermit-hut (brought hither 
from Altzellen) of Conrad Scheuber, grandson of St. Nikolaus von 
der Flue (p. 123), whose worship he shares. 

From Wolfenschiessen via Oberrickenbach and the Schbnegg Pass (6315') 
to (5J/2-6 hrs.) Isenthal, see p. 85. Guide advisable, the descent from the 
pass to the Sulzthal Alp being steep and pathless. 

Beyond (2*/ 2 M.) Qrafenort (1885'; Inn, good wine) the road 
ascends through beautiful wood. To the right, far below, flows the 
brawling Aa. We next pass (4 M.) the auberge 'Im Griinen Wald', 
below which, in the valley to the right, the brook descending 
from the Triibsee (p. 127) falls into the Aa. After another slight 
ascent, we turn to the left, and suddenly obtain a view of the 
Engelberger Thai, a green Alpine valley, 5 M. long and 1 M. broad, 
bounded on three sides by lofty, snow-clad mountains. The Titlis 
with its ice-mantle stands forth majestically, and to the left rise the 
rocky pinnacles of the Great and Little Spannort (p. 121) ; in the 
foreground is the Hahnenberg or Engelberg (8566'). Then (l 3 / 4 M.) — 



120 II. Route 3d. ENGELBERG. From Lucerne 

12 M. Engelberg. — *H3tbl Sonnenbkbg, finely situated, E., L., 
& A. 4-5, D. 41/2, S. 3, pens. 8V2-U fr. ; 'Hotel Titlib, E., L., ft A; 
31/2, D. 4, pens. 8>/2-12fr. ; "Engel, pens. 6-8 fr., rooms separated only by 
board partitions; 'Apartments at Dr. Cattanfs, adjoining, but without 
board; "Kurhaus & Pens. Mulleb, pens. G-8V2 fr- ; "Hotel National, 
8-10 fr. ; "Hot. -Pens. Engelbebg, 6 fr. ; "Hot. des Alpes, unpretending, 
board 5 fr.; "Hot. -Pens. Hess, E. 2, B. 1 fr. Eooms at several other 
houses ; usual charges, E. l'/2, B. 1, I>- 2 fr.; whey also procurable. Beer 
at Waser's. — English Church in the grounds of the Hotel Titlis. — Guides: 
Karl, Eugen, and Jos. Hess ; Jos. Kttster, father and son ; Placidut Hess ; 
Jos. Amrhein; Jos. Imf anger; N. Hurschler; C. Waser. 

Engelberg (3315'; pop. 1973), loftily and prettily situated, and 
sheltered from the N., is a favourite health-resort, particularly for 
nervous patients. At the upper end of the village rises the handsome 
Benedictine Abbey of the name, founded in 1121, named Moris An- 
gelorum by Pope Calixtus XI., and rebuilt after a fire in 1729. 

The *Chubch contains modern pictures by Deschwanden, Kaiser, and 
Wilrsch (p. 118). High-altar-piece, an Assumption by Spiegler, 1734. In 
the chapter - house two transparencies by Kaiser, the Conception and the 
Nativity. The Libeaet (20,000 vols., 210 MSS.), which was pillaged by 
the French in 1798, contains a good relief of the Engelberg Valley. Per- 
mission to visit the monastery is now not very often granted. — The 
School connected with the abbey is well attended. The Fabm Buildings, 
with the labourers' dwellings, are very extensive, and in the cheese-ma- 
gazine several thousand cheeses are frequently stored at one time. The 
revenues of the abbey, which formerly exercised sovereign rights over 
the surrounding district, were considerably reduced by the French in 1798. 

Opposite the abbey, to the S., on the left bank of the Aa, are 
pleasant shady walks, which are reached in 10 minutes. 

Excursions. The "Schwand (4300'; Inn), affording a delightful survey 
of the valley and the neighbouring mountains, is reached by a good path in 
I1/4 hr. — The Bergli (4300'; Inn) and the Fliihmatt (1355 1 ), each 1 hr., com- 
mand a magnificent view of the Titlis. — Pleasant walk (brake several times 
daily, 60 c.) past the favourite coffee garden of Eiewaldchen to the 0>/4 hr.) 
Tatschbach Fall, which descends from the Hahnenberg (Inn). (To the left 
of this path is the End der Welt, a rocky basin at the head of the Horbis- 
thal. It may be reached in V2 br. : 10 min. from the church, and beyond 
the bridge over the Horbisbach, the path ascends to the left by the cafe' 
'Zur neuen Heimat'.) Beyond the Tatschbach we may cross the Fiirren- 
bach, which also forms several falls, and visit the 0/2 hr.) dairy-farm of 
Herrenriiti (3897' ; horse there and back 5 fr.), the property of the Abbey, 
affording a survey of the Firnalpeli and Grassen glaciers. — The Arnitobel, 
a gorge with a waterfall, 3/« hr. to the W., a pleasant and shady walk; 
thence to the right to the (1 hr.) Lower Amialp (4355'; Inn), with a good 
view of the Engelberger Eothstock, and to (1 hr. farther) the Upper 
Amialp (5300), commanding a beautiful survey of the Engelberg valley. 
— Furrenalp (6073'; 2'/2 hrs.); the path ascends to the left before reaching 
the Tatschbach Fall, and then skirts the slope above (beautiful view of 
the Titlis). 

Ascents. Eigidalstock (8515'; 4'/.jhrs.; guide 9 fr.), the last part 
difficult, fine panorama; Wildgeissberg (8710'; 5 hrs.; guide 10 fr.), rather 
fatiguing ; Widderfeld (7723' ; 4 hrs. ; guide 8 fr.), less fatiguing. — Hut- 
atock (8790' ; 6-7 hrs. ; guide 12 fr.), by the Juchli (p. 123), not difficult 
for mountaineers. — The Hanghorn (8790'), an attractive point, is reached 
in 6-7 hrs. (guide 12 fr.) by crossing the slope of the Schattband, in front 
of the Hutstock. — Engelberg-Rothstock (9250'; 5 hrs.; guide 9 fr.), interest- 
ing and not difficult. We ascend by the Alp Obliag and the Plankenalp to 
the (3>/2 hrs.) Club Hut on the Ruchhubel (7562'), not far from the Griessen 
Glacier; thence below the Rothgratli (p. 85) to the top in 1>^ hr. more. 

"Uri-Rothstock (9620'; 8'/2 hrs.; guide 17, with descent to Isenthal 






'Jrhptn 1 .! 






i /| ffU'olfrlis^liesspn' H«»nul s , 



iJlai 



/ V^ ^-SteSnalp-BrieKen """s^i '■ 






^-' filter- Ober- Fijie'r-Lutro^ 



OberWdaL ' 
StlnmrzHmMA 



Ij.Stoff &)>«•£> 

OberOtialt 



v'jifl 
9 



Vrnerstafrl 

B nun.- Alp 

WbHeaStockf „,_,_. , '"JSSf 
Wund-J, •«» Plankpusiat ..^JSK 

X BJ^Jhal-Sloukc *£. JhiclmtDrt : H 

StT-FlariknirA. H I 
3^ 



pefyqrten J ^C^lTfeseiMI 1 Alp : Jtyi&£?$2t .^^J& 



-fAd, 






^"^RjMtar*, 



4 *> Kfi-J 1 *?"-^^ " 5 ^^ '>-e=*-*~i^tSiBP-->-^iv= 



'rHgrrVis 
"brder- 



r*«W/ 



It 



»v 






staM. 



Efl&asT. 



ea- Hnnghorn. 



-Alpeitn ff rnlTi-idisc^l tcTscJ 



K\yX/b.TriiTtsee-.l 



EieJi 
''trissb,, 



Stair 



rea-A 




Grauslock 



/ 



^ 






(Si 



> M-niOpeli? i 




'irnalfelii 



^ M 'M 



5t&c iv /EngsflnifS. ) 

^Sdwrniaiilaf}tr 



Btnharn 



/ v f V ('iidincii 

■ --. I J.-' V tlllrrn/Ilrrn I 'U'mir/ ['Ilfc«//'fti 



Hfcrt 




.to/M/ < 



ifllttrfl/llrrn 



''^4 




"' Kiitgbliu) -firn : 



l|.|' \l'V( I Ml 



Knglixh Mill's 




jMerwali-l ° r " 






•Riiteli 



7/ •.--*'. 



£ / |statterS. 








[)rf 



Grot — -^y^Xilnv 



■ ~ks " 







A'i> 






pjrfeo 






a xsS&& A'MttJ. 









Jliedberg, 

Gr.SpaimDrt '• M » J •" *"»""«"' " it 

f • -^Schneelriiknprst ~~fafkT'W' . -~x w,^ *_ • I 

;C .Jv T ■■ ■> Zwaditen * ,™ •*«« * "af 

1},,r WichpQlom teu&stuirJud. f i . „ 

* i, ""hf^^ , '\1 XBniqsaqel ins Griih 'vjwg&a 



™*i7w ' 



Scbweiz^ Stundi- 



Warner! Debi'sXfipzig- 



to Altdorf. SURENENPASS. II. Route 34. 121 

22 fr.), very interesting. From the club-hut above the Plankenalp to the 
(l ] /4 hr.) gap (8878') on the S. of the Engelberg- Rothstock; thence across 
snow to the (1 hr.) Porta or Schlossttockliicke, adjoining the Schlossstoclc 
(9055'); then a rather steep descent to the Blumlisalpfim ; again an ascent 
to the arete separating it from the Kleinthal, and lastly up the Klein- 
thalfirn to the (2'/z hrs.) top (comp. p. 85). 

The Gross-Spannort (10,515') is ascended from the Spannort Club-hut 
(6500'), 4'As hrs. from Engelberg, by the Schlossberg-Lucke and the Glatten- 
firn in 41/2 hrs. ; interesting, though toilsome (comp. p. 103 ; guide 25 fr.). 
— Klein-Spannort (10,380'), from the Spannort Hut by the Spannortjoch 
(see below) 6-7 hrs. (guide 35 fr.); difficult, for expert climbers only. — 
Schlossberg (10,280'), from the Blachen-Alp (see below) in 4>/2 hrs., with 
guide, laborious. The admirable view is scarcely inferior to that from 
the Titlis. Much Edelweiss. 

The 'Titlis (10,627'; 7-8 hrs.; guide 12 fr.) is very interesting, though for 
novices somewhat trying. It is advisable to go on the previous evening to the 
HStel Sett (p. 127 ; 21/4 hrs. ; horse 10 fr.), in order not to have the steep 
Pfaffenwand (p. 127) to ascend at starting. From this point it is usual to 
start at 2 a.m., in order that on the return-route the snow may be traversed 
before the heat of the day. From the Hotel Hess the path ascends over 
the Laubertgrat to the (2 hrs.) Stand (8033'), where a short rest is taken; 
it then mounts a steep slaty incline in zigzags, over rock and detritus, 
to the p/4 hr.) Rothegg (9030'), where the glacier is reached. We ascend 
the glacier, at first gradually, then more rapidly (step-cutting sometimes 
necessary), and if the snow is in good condition we reach the (l'/2-2 hrs.) 
summit, called the Nollen, without material difficulty. The view, highly 
picturesque and imposing, embraces the entire Alpine chain from Savoy 
to the Tyrol, N. Switzerland, and S. Germany. The ascent of the Titlis, 
though requiring perseverance, is perhaps the least difficult of glacier-excur- 
sions. Descent to the Joch Pass (Engstlenalp), see p. 126. 

Passes. From Engelberg over the Joch Pass to Meiringen (9'/2-10 hrs.; 
guide, unnecessary, to Engstlen 8 fr.), see E. 36 ; over the Storegg (6 hrs.) 
or the Juchli {&/2 hrs.; guide 12 fr.) to the Melchthal, see p. 123; over the 
Rothgratli to the Isenthal (10 hrs. ; guide 17 fr.), see p. 85. 

Fkom Engelberg to Eestfeld (p. 103) via the Schlossberg-Liicke 
(8635') and the Glattenfirn (10 hrs. ; guide 25 fr.), a fine route, but fatiguing. 
By spending a night in the Spannort Hut (see above ; 2 hrs. below the pass) 
mountaineers may combine the ascent of the Gross - Spannort (see above) 
with this pass. — To Erstfeld across the Spannortjoch (9610' ; 10-11 hrs. ; 
guide 25 fr.), between the Gross and the Klein-Spannort, toilsome. 

To Wasen over the Grassen Pass (Bdrengrube, 8917'), 10 hrs., difficult 
(guide to Meien 25 fr.). — To the Steinalp over the Wendenjoch (8695'), 
10-11 hrs., fatiguing, but interesting (guide 25 fr.). 

The route to the Surenen Pass leads past the Tatschbach Fall to 
(1^4 hr.) Herrenruti (p. 120), follows the right hank of the Aa to 
(25 min.) the frontier of Canton Uri by the Nieder-Surenen Alp 
(4134'), and ascends to the (V 2 hr.) Staffeli (4652'). After a steep 
ascent to the (50 min.) Stierenbach Fall (best viewed from below), 
we cross (5 min.) the brook, and in 40 min. more recross it to the 
Blackenalp (5833'), with its chapel. The path then ascends grad- 
ually over snow, which melts in July, to the (iy 2 hr.) Surenen- 
Pass (7560'), on the S. side of the Blackenstock (9587'). 

The Titlis becomes grander as we ascend, and we observe a 
long range of peaks and glaciers, particularly the Klein- and Gross- 
Spannort and the Schlossberg, extending as far as the Surenen. On 
the other side we survey the mountains enclosing the Schachenthal, 
on the opposite side of the Reuss, the "Windgalle being most con- 
spicuous. On the E. side of the Surenen the snow, which never 



122 II, Route 35. ALPNACH. 

entirely melts, is crossed in i / l hv. in the height of summer. Then a 
steep descent to the(iy 4 hr.) Waldnacht-Alpfilbi 1 ), which is visible 
in the long valley below. At a stone bridge ( 3 / 4 hr.) the road 
divides. The very steep path in a straight direction leads to 
(13/ 4 hr.) Altdorf($- 102J ; that to the right, crossing the bridge, 
to (2 hrs.) Erstfeld (p. 103). By the latter we reach the (5 min.) 
Bockitobel , with the picturesque falls of the Waldnachtbach 
(beyond which the guide may be dismissed), descend through wood 
into the valley, traverse the pastures to the village of Erstfeld, and 
cross the Reuss to the station on the St. GotthaTd line (p. 103). 

35. From Lucerne over the Bruirig to Meiringen and 
Brienz (Interlaken). 

Comp. Maps, pp. 78, 79, 148. 

Railway from Lucerne to (28V2 M.) Meiringen in 3 hrs. (fares 7 fr. 90, 5 fr. 
45, 3 fr. 55 c.) ; to (36 M.) Brienz in 33/ 4 hrs. (fares 10 fr. 30, 7 fr. 25, 4 fr. 
25 c.). From Brienz to Interlaken, steamboat in l-Vfa hr. — Steamboat 
(preferable if time permit) from Lucerne to Alpnach- Slad ( 3 /rl l /2 hr.; 
p. 92); the direct trijs are timed to connect with the Briinig Railway at 
Alpnaeh-Stad. 

The 'Briinig Railway, opened in 1888-89, is, as far as (10 M.) Giswjl, 
i. e. about hallway, an ordinary narrow-gauge line, but from that point 
it surmounts the pass (3295') alternately by means of the 'rack-and-pinion' 
system and the adhesive system, with a maximum gradient of 18 : 100. 
Best views to the right. In point of picturesque beauty, however, the old 
Briinig lload is superior , and those who visit the Bernese Oberland lor 
the first lime may still cross the Briinig to Meiringen on foot, from Giawyl 
or Lungern. 

Lucerne (Briinig Railway Station, PI. E, 4 ; restaurant), see p. 73. 
The Bkunig Railway runs to the S."\V. in a wide curve into the 
broad valley of the Allmend, and leaving Kriens (p. 77), at the foot 
of the Sonnenberg, to the right, passes (3 M.) Horw (the village 
with its pretty church lies to the left), and approaches the S."\Y. 
arm of the Lake of Lucerne (p. 93). 5V2 M- Hergiswyl (*Rbssli; 
"'Schweizerheim) , at the foot of Pilatus (bridle-path to the Hdtel 
Klimsenhorn , p. 95). The railway now pierces the rocky Lopper- 
berg by means of a tunnel ' 3 / 4 M. in length, and skirts the Lake of 
Alpnach to — 

8 M. Alpnach-Stad ("Hotel Pilatus; Rossli; Stern), the starting- 
point of the *Pilatus Railway ; see p. 94. 

Thence the line proceeds through the partly marshy valley of 
the An and across the Kleine Schlierenbach to (9^2 M.) Alpnach or 
Alpnachdorf (1530'; Sonne; Schliissel). The church of Alpnach with 
its slender spire was erected with the proceeds of the sale of timber 
from the forests of Pilatus, which wore rendered accessible by a 
wooden slide, 8 M. lonj-', and were cut down in 1811-19. 

Beyond Alpnach the train crosses the broad stony bed nf the Orosse 
Schlieren and the Saarner Aa, the right bank of which it follows, 
past Kiiyhwyl (on the right), with its large parquetry -factory, 
to (11 M.) Kerm-Kayiswyl (1620'), the station for the Melchthal. 



SARNEN. II. Route 35. 123 

The Grosse Melchthal, an idyllic valley, 15 M. long, studded with 
numerous chalets and watered by the Meleh-Aa, well repays a visit. From 
the station a diligence plies daily in 2 3 /4 hrs. to the village of Melchthal, 
via 0/2 hr.) Kerns (1865'; "Krone; Hirseh; Riissli), a considerable village 
with a pretty church, finely situated at the foot of the Arvigrat (692CV). 
At the entrance of the Melchthal, 3 M. from Kerns and 3 3 /4 M. from 
Sarnen, is St. Niklaus (2752'), or St. Klaus, the first Christian church erected 
in this district. The ancient tower adjoining it is locally known as the 
Beidenthurm (heathens' tower). In the ravine of the Melchaa, opposite, is the 
Ranft, formerly a barren wilderness, with the hermitage of St. Nikolaus 
von dek Floe, who is said to have lived here for twenty years without 
other food than the sacramental elements , of which he partook monthly. 
After their victory over Charles the Bold of Burgundy in 1482, the 
confederates assembled at Stans disagreed about the division of the spoil, 
but through the intervention of the venerable hermit the dispute was soon 
amicably settled. After his death (1487) he was canonised. His memory 
is still revered by the people, and there is scarcely a hut in the Forest 
Cantons that does not possess a portrait of Brother Klaus. 

From the hermitage the road proceeds to the (3 M.) village of Melch- 
thal (2933' ; Alpenhof) and the (3 M.) Alp Stock, at the foot of the precipit- 
ous Ramisfluh (6115'), whence a new road, practicable for light vehicles, 
leads to (6 M.) Melchsee-Frutt (see below). At the Ohr-Alp (3975'), 3 M. 
to the E. of Melchthal, is one of the largest mapletrees in Switzerland, 
with a girth of 371/2 ft. at about 5 ft. from the ground. From Melchthal 
(guide Jos. Imdorf) a rough path crosses the Storegg (5710') to Engelberg 
(p. 120) in 41/2 hrs. ; another , more interesting but more difficult (steep 
descent; guide 12 fr.), leads thither in 6 hrs. over the Juehli (7120'). The 
Niinalphorn (Juchlistock , 7830'; fine view of the Titlis and the Bernese 
Alps) may be ascended in 1 hr. from the Juehli. View still finer from 
the Hutstock (8790'), reached by good climbers from the Juehli in 2 hrs. 
(comp. p. 120). — The basin of the Melchsee (0115'; H6t.-Pens. Frutt, Pens. 
Reinhard, both unpretending) affords an attractive picture of Alpine life. 
Rich flora. Interesting excursions may be made to Boni, 1 hr. ; Spicherfluh 
(6690 1 ), l'/2hr. ; Hohmatt, 2-2i/ 2 hrs. ; "Enegg (7138'), l'Ahr.; "Balmeregg- 
horn (7280 1 ), l'/ 2 hr. ; Abgschiitz, l3/ 4 hr. ; 'Hohenstollen (8150), 2'/4 hrs., 
with fine view (comp. p. 171); Glockhavs (8320'), 2 hrs., toilsome; Wild- 
geistberg (8710'), 3 hrs. via. Tannenalp (comp. p. 126) ; etc. To the E. an 
easy pass crosses the Tannenalp (6500') in 2 hrs. to the Bngstlen-Alp (p. 126); 
to the W. an interesting pass leads via the Weit Riss (about 7700'), to the 
S. of the Hohenstollen, in 4 hrs. (guide 10 fr.) to Meiringen (p. 170). 

13 M. Sarnen (1630'; pop. 3928 ; *Obwaldner Hof ; *Seiler, pens. 
5fr. ; Adler; Metzger, moderate; Pens. Landenberg, see below; Pens. 
Niederberger, on the 'Boll', 74 nr - to the E.), the capital of Obwalden, 
the W. part of Canton Unterwalden, with its nunnery and Capuchin 
monastery. The Rathhaus contains portraits of all the magistrates 
of Obwalden from the year 1381 to 1824, and one of St. Nikolaus 
von der Flue (see above) , and a relief model of Unterwalden and 
Hasli. The large church, on a hill, the cantonal hospital, the poor 
house, the Niklaus von Flue Penaionat (for students), and the arsenal 
on the Landenberg (1667' ; fine view; pension, see above), are con- 
spicuous buildings. The castle of Landenberg, destroyed by the 
Confederates on New Year's Day, 1308, formerly stood on the last- 
mentioned hill. 

At the head of the Schlieren- Thai, 3>/ 2 hrs. to the W . of arnen, lies the 
sequestered 'Schwendi-Kaltbad (4737'), with a chalybeate spring and whey- 
cure. The road ascends the W. slope of the Schwendiberg to (1 hr.) Stal- 
den (2614'; refreshments at the cure's), whence a bridle-path crosses the 
meadows of Bchwendi and goes on , often through wood, to the (2'/2 hrs.) 



124 II. Route 35. LUNGERN. From Lucerne 

Kaltbad. Thence to the top of the Feueritein (67000 2>/2 brg. ; to the 
Schimberg Bad, 2 hrs., see p. 129. 

To the Mekhthal (3i/z M. to St. Niklaus), see p. 123. 

The railway crosses the Melchaa, which has been conducted 
into the Sarner See (1552'), a lake 4 M. long, and l-iy 4 M. broad, 
well stocked with fish , which it continues to skirt. The valley of 
Sarnen is pleasing, though without pretension to Alpine grandeur. 
— At (15 M.) Sachseln (1598'; *Kreuz, moderate; Engel; Rosili; 
pop. 1556), a thriving village near the E. bank of the lake, is a 
large church, erected in 1663, containing the bones of St. Nikolaus 
and other relics. 

Ascending a short distance, from the S. end of the lake, and 
passing (on the left) the entrance of the Kleine Melchthal, the train 
next halts at (18 M.) Giswil (1665'; Hotel de la Qare; Krone), 
partly destroyed in 1629 by inundations of the Lauibach. A lake 
was thus formed, and 130 years later was drained into the Lake of 
Sarnen. Fine view from the churchyard, beside the highlying 
church ; to the S.W. rise the Giswiler Stock (6605') and the Brienzer 
Rothhorn (7713'). Above the station are the relics of a chateau of 
the Rudenz family. 

The Giswiler Stock (6605'), affording a beautiful view, may he ascen- 
ded in 4 hrs. from Giswil, via Kleintheil and Iwi. The descent may he 
made to the Marienthal (Entlebuch, p. 130). — The Brienzer Eothhorn (p. 172) 
may be ascended from Giswil in 6 hrs. ; path for the first 3 hrs. good, 
afterwards steep and toilsome. Pedestrians are recommended to walk 
by the old 'Briinig Road from Giswil to (3 hra.) the Briinig Pass (3395'; 
"Kurhaut Briinig , p. 125), whence they may descend to (i 3 /« hr.) Meiringm 
or (3 hrs.) Briene (p. 172). 

At Giswil, where the railway meets its first serious obstacle, the 
'rack-and-pinion' system begins. The line ascends the side of the 
valley at a considerable gradient (10 : 100), traversing wood and 
crossing two torrents and traversing two rock-cuttings, and at 
Biirgeln reaches the summit of the Kaiserstuhl (2305'). From the 
top the triple peak of the Wetterhorn is visible to the S. over 
the depression of the Briinig. The railway proceeds , high above 
the picturesque Lake of Lungern (2162'; l 1 /^ M. long) and through 
a short tunnel, to — 

221/2 M. Lungern ('2475'). The large village (pop. 1756'; *Lowe 
fy Hot. Briinig , pens. 5-6 fr. ; Bar) is, with the adjoining Ober- 
Seeioies, the last village in the valley and lies 1/2 M. from the S. 
end of the lake, half of which was drained into the Lake of Sarnen 
in 1836, by means of a channel s /i M. long. — The Dundelsbach 
forms a picturesque fall on the hillside to the W. The Oiebel 
(6680'; fine view), to the S.E., may be easily ascended from 
Lungern In 3^2 ul *s. 

The second steep gradient begins beyond Lungern; picturesque 
retrospect. The train passes through the Kappeli Tunnel (2970'; 
160 yds. in length) and ascends the wooded Brunigmatt-Thal (above 
us, to the right, is the road), at a moderate gradient, which be- 



toBriem. BRUNIG. II. Route 35. 125 

comes steeper before (25V2 M.) Briinig (3295'; *Rail. Restaurant, 
D. incl. W. 3 fr. ; *H6t.-Pens. fy Kurhaus Briinig, 3 rain, from 
the station, pens. 8-12 fr.), situated on the crest of the saddle, 
not far from the old Briinig Pass. Fine view; opposite us tower 
the Engelhorner (p. 170) and the Faulhorn chain (p. 166) ; to the 
left we overlook the valley of Meiringen as far as the Kirchet (p. 174) ; 
at the foot of the mountains to the S. is the lower fall of the Reichen- 
bach (p. 170); opposite is the fall of the Oltschibach (p. 172); 
below us flows the Aare , and to the right is part of the Lake of 
Brienz. 

Fine prospect from the Wyler Alp (4856'), l>/2 hr. to the N.W. of the 
Briinig; more extensive from the Wylerhorn (6580 1 ), 3 hrs. from the pass. 

From the Brunig to Meiringen, on foot in 2 hrs., attractive. From the 
road, about '/i M. below the station, a footpath diverges to the right, and 
crossing the railway, runs chiefly through wood to (3 M.) Hohfluh (p. 171). 
Before reaching the inn we turn to the left, take the first turning to the 
right, and cross the pastures to the right again via Was&erwmdi and 
Qolderm to the Hotel Alpbach and (3 M.) Meiringen (p. 170). After Hoh- 
fluh we have a continuous and picturesque view of the Wetterhorner and 
Oberhasli. 

The railway has been carried down the steep rocky wall at a 
considerable gradient (maximum 12 : 100) by means of blasting, 
retaining-walls under overhanging cliffs, and cuttings. We cross 
the brawling Orossbach, Kehlbach, and Hausenbach (charming view 
at the BrunnenfluK), enter the Aarethal, and beyond Hausen reach — 

28!/2 M. Meiringen (p. 170). Thence to Brienz and Interluken, 
see R. 50. 

36. From Meiringen to Engelberg. Engstlen- Alp. 
Joch Pass. 

Comp. Maps, pp. lot, 120. 

9 3 /4 hrs. : Im-Hof l 1 /*, Engstlen-Alp 5 (Lauenen direct from Meiringen 
21/2, Engstlen-Alp 2V 2 hrs.), Joch 1V2, Triibsee 1/2, Engelberg I1/2 hr. — 
Horse from Im-Hof to Engelberg 30, from Meiringen 35 fr. ; guide (un- 
necessary) 16 and 18 fr. ; horse from Engstlen-Alp to Engelberg 15, guide 
8 fr. — If the traveller can devote two days to this interesting journey 
(still more attractive in the reverse direction), he should sleep on the 
Engstlen-Alp, where an afternoon may be pleasantly spent. 

From Meiringen to (17 4 hr.) l m -Hof (2054'), see p. 175. Two 
routes lead thence to the Genthal. We follow the Susten route 
(p. 127) to the ( 3 / 4 hr.) foundry in the Miihlethal; then, beyond the 
C 3 A !"■•) bridge over the Oenthalwasser, ascend to the left through 
wood to the (Y2 hr.) Wagenkehr (rustic rfmts., good wine) and the 
(t^hr.) Oenthalalp (see below). Or we may diverge to the left from 
the Susten route at Wyler, 20 min. from Im-Hof, cross the Gad- 
menbach, turn to the left again after 5 min., and ascend rapidly 
through pastures and wood. Near the (1 hr.) chalets of Lauenen 
(3800') begins the Genthalalp. 

A path called the l Bimdschilpfi\ shorter by V2 hr., but very narrow 
at places, and somewhat dizzy (guide advisable), leads from Meiringen 



126 72. Route 36. ENGSTLEN-ALP. 

straight on for •/« "• beyond the bridge over the brook and then, ascend- 
ing to the left, skirts the brow of the Hatliberg, affording a striking 
view of the valleys which unite at Im-Hof far below, to the (2 1 /! hrs.) 
chalets of Lauenen (p. 125). 

The path soon approaches the Oenthalbach, and follows its right 
bank. On the C/4 hr.) Leimboden (3920') our path is joined on the 
right by that from Miihlethal above mentioned (small aubeige on the 
left bank). We now gradually ascend the monotonous Genthal. Be- 
hind us rise the Wetterhorner and the Hangend-Gletscherhorn at the 
head of the Urbachthal (p.175). In 20 min. we pass the Oenthalhiitten 
(3993'), on the left bank of the brook , and after a slight ascent 
reach (1 hr.) the Schwarzenthalhutten (4596'; Rfmts.). 

The valley now becomes more interesting. From the precipices 
of the Qadmer Fluke (9750') on the right, which become grander 
as we proceed, falls a series of cascades, varying in volume ac- 
cording to the state of the melting snow, and we at last come 
to eight of these close together (Achtelsassbdehe). The Engstlen- 
bach. as the brook is named above this point, also forms several 
considerable falls. The path crosses the stream and ascends, often 
steeply, through venerable wood, to the (1^4 hr.) *Engstlen-Alp 
(6033'; *Inn y R., L., & A. 3, D. 4, pens. 6 fr.), a beautiful pasture, 
with fine old pines and 'Alpine cedars'. (Excellent water, tem- 
perature 40-42° Fahr.) *View, to the S.W., of the majestic Wetter- 
horn; to the left the Schreckhorner; to the right the Blumlisalp; to 
to the E. the Wendenstocke and the Titlis. — The Wunderbrunnen 
('miraculous spring'), near the inn, is an intermittent spring which 
only flows in wet weather and in spring during the melting of the 
snow, usually about noon . 

Excursions. To Melchsee-Frutt (2 hrs. ; guide, 4 fr., unnecessary; 
horse 10 fr.). From the inn we walk to the N.W. to the waterfall and 
ascend rapidly on the right side, soon obtaining a splendid view of the 
Bernese Alps (among which the Finsteraarhorn comes in view to the left 
of the Schreckhorner). At the top we round the grassy Spicherfluh (6690), 
pass a small lake, and reach the (1 hr.) Tannenalp (6501)'), with its numerous 
chalets. We next traverse beautiful level pastures, pass two other small 
lakes, and reach (1 hr.) Melchtee- Fruit (6210 1 ; Hot. -Pens. Frutt; Pens. 
Reinhard), see p. 123. 

Ascents. Schafberg (Qwartler; 7950'; 2 hrs.), not difficult; Graustoch 
(8737' ; 2'/2-3 hrs. ; with guide), fatiguing ; Wildgeissberg (8710" ; 3 hrs. 5 with 
guide, 5 fr.), an admirable point, but rather laborious (comp. p. 120). — 
Wendemtock (9990' ; 4 hrs. ; with guide), difficult, for experts only ; im- 
posing view. 

The ascent of the "Titlis (p. 121) is shorter from the Engstlen-Alp than 
from Engelberg. From the (l'/» hr.) Joch Pass we ascend to the right 
over rocks, de'bris, and snow, and reach the (3^2 -4 hrs.) top after a steep 
and fatiguing climb. Guide from the inn lo fr. (charged in the bill) 
and gratuity (with descent to Engelberg 20 fr.). The start should be made 
not later than 2 a.m., with lanterns. 

Over the Satteli to Gadmen, 3'/j-4 hrs. (guide to the Satteli 4, 
Gadmen 10, Steinalp 14, Wasen 21 fr.), a fine route. At the W. end of 
the Engstlen-See (p. 127) we cross the Engstlenbach to the Alp Scharmad- 
l&ger, and ascend a narrow path on the slope of the Gadmer Fluh to the 
(2 hrs.) Satteli (splendid view of the Gadmenthal, Trift Glacier, and 
Bernese Alps). Then a long and steep descent to (li/ 2 -2 hrs.) Oadmen 



JOCH PASS. 11. Route 36. 127 

(p. 128). A still finer view is obtained from the 'Achtelsassgrat ('■GratW), 
1/2 hr. beyond the Satteli and a few hundred feet lower. 

For !/ 2 nr - the bridle-path to (3y 2 hrs.) Bngelberg skirts the 
Engstlen-See (6075'), a lake H/4 M. long, abounding in trout, 
and then ascends, in view of the Wendenstocke , with the Pfaffen 
and Joch Glaciers, to the (1 hr.) Joch Pass (7245'; view limited). 
A tolerable path now descends over rock and detritus to the (!/ 2 hr.) 
Obere Triibsee-Alp (Inn), on the S.E. side of the turbid Trubsee 
(5795'), and then leads to the N.E. through the flat and marshy 
valley (with the Trubsee on the left) , and across the brook which 
descends from the glaciers of the Titlis, to the (% M.) *H6t.-Pens. 
Hess, on the margin of the Pfaffenwand (5870'). The view hence 
of the Titlis and the Engelberg Valley is surpassed by that from 
the Bitzistock (6225'; easily ascended in 20 min. from the hotel), 
which includes also the Schlossberg, Spannorter, and other moun- 
tains. Ascent of the Titlis, see p. 121. 

The path now descends the steep Pfaffenwand in zigzags, leads 
over the OerschniAlp (4125') towards aclump of pines, entersawood, 
crosses the Engelberger Aa at the foot of the hill, and reaches — 

iy 2 hr. Engelberg (p. 120). 

37. From Meiringen to Wasen. Susten Pass. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 104, 120, 110. 

12 hrs.: Im-Hof l>/4, Gadmen 3, Am Stein 2s/ 4 , Susten-Scheidegg H/4, 
Meien 2 3 /4, Wasen 1 hr. Horse 35 (or, for two days, 40), guide 18 fr. (un- 
necessary). 

From Meiringen to Im-Hof (2055'), l 1 /*^, see p. 175. The 
Susten Road, constructed by Bern and Uri in 1811, and still 
tolerably well kept on the Bernese side (practicable for driving as 
far as the Stein Inn), diverges here to the E. from the Grimsel route. 
It traverses pleasant meadows and wooded slopes , and skirts the 
winding Oadmenbach. At one time the "Wetterhorn, Wellhorn, and 
Engelhorner, at another the Schwarzhorn group form the back- 
ground towards the W. 

The lower valley is called the Miihlethal, above which is the Aes- 
senthal. Beyond (20 min.) Wyler the path to the Engstlen-Alp 
(p. 125)diverges to the left. Theroadcrosses(10min.) theGadmen- 
bach, and at an (!/ 4 hr.) old iron-foundry the Oenihalbach, on the 
left bank of which a second path (see p. 125) to the Engstlen-Alp 
diverges. At (3/ 4 hr.) Muhlestalden (3117') the narrow Triftthal 
opens towards the S.E., with the Trift Glacier in the background. 

Triftthal (comp. Map, p. 110; 4>/ 2 hrs. to the club-hut; guide neces- 
sary; Andr. v. Weissenfluh of Muhlestalden, Joh. Moor and Joh. Luchs of 
Gadmen). The path ascends on the left bank of the Triftbach and on the 
left side of the ice-fall to the (3 hrs.) simple Windegg-Hutle (6237'). We now 
cross the glacier, here tolerably level, and mount the steep rocks of the 
Thaltistock to the (iy 2 hr.) Trift But of the Swiss Alpine Club (8250'), 
affording a good survey of the upper basin of the Trift Glacier. From 
the clnb-hut over the Trift-Limmi (10,170') and the Rhone Glacier to the 



128 II. Route 37. SDSTEN PASS. 

Furka (p. 117) or to the Grimsel Hospice (p. 176), 9 hrs. , fatiguing. — The 
Dammastock (H^IO 1 ; splendid view) is ascended without very serious 
difficulty from the club-hut in 41/2-5 hrs. (guide from Meiringen , 40 fr. ; 
descent by the Rhone Glacier and Sagelisgratli to the Grimsel, 7 hrs.). — 
The Schneestock (11,667'; 5 hrs.), Thieralplistock (11,140': 5 hrs-), and Diechter- 
horn (11,120' ; 4 hrs.) may also be ascended from the Trift Hut without 
difficulty. — Passes to the GSschener - Alp over the Winterberg Range 
(Maasplankjoch, Damma Past, Winterjoch), 8 hrs., difficult (comp. p. 110). 

— Over the Tiefensattel (about 10,820') and the Tie/en Glacier (p. 117) to 
the Furka, 9 hrs., interesting, and in certain states of the snow not difficult. 

— Interesting passes also cross the Furtwang - Sattel (8392') to Guttannen 
(a steep ascent of 3 hrs. from the Windegg ; descent by the Steinhaus-Alp 
to Guttannen in 2 hrs.), and the Stein-Limmi (8970 1 ) to the Stein-Alp. The 
latter route leads from the Graggi-Hiitte, opposite the Windegg on the 
right side of the glacier, in 3 hrs. to the col, between the Giglistock and 

Vorder-Thierberg, and descends over the Stein-Limmi Glacier and round the 
slopes of the Thaleggli to the (2 hrs.) Stein Inn (see below). By com- 
bining the two last-named passes, a good walker may reach the Stein Inn 
from Guttannen in a single day (11-12 hrs.). 

The road crosses the Gadmenbach and ascends by Schaftelen to 
(1 hr.) Vnterfuren (3848'), where the beautiful Oadmenthal begins, 
and (20 min.) the village of Gadmen (3945'; Bar, moderate), consist- 
ing of the hamlets of An der Egg, Buhl, and Obermatt. (Path over the 
Satteli to the Engstlen-Alp, see p. 126.) The green valley with its 
fine old maple-trees contrasts strikingly with the barren Qadmer 
Fluh (see p. 126). To the E., on the slope of the Vratstocke (95450, 
lies the Wenden Glacier. 

After a level stretch, the road ascends through wood in numer- 
ous windings to the chalets of Feldmoos (4935'), and then traverses 
a wild rocky region ('Holle') to the (2i/ 2 hrs.) Stein Inn (61220, 
at the foot of the huge Stein Glacier. 

Ovek the Sosten-Limmi to the Goscheneb-Alp, 9 hrs., laborious (guide 
from Meiringen 35 fr.). We ascend the slopes of the Thaleggli (on the W. 
side of the Stein Glacier), cross the Stein-Limmi Glacier to the Thierbergli, 
and teaverse the n4v& of the Stein Glacier to the Susten-Limmi (10,180'), 
lying to the S.W. of the Gletscherhom (11,457'). Descent over the Susten 
Glacier to the Kehlen-Alp (7562') and across the Kehle Glacier to the Hin- 
tere Rbthe and Gbschentr-Alp (p. 109). — A similar pass is the Thierberg- 
Limmi (about 10,500') : we cross the Stein Glacier to the Joch between 
the Steinberg and the Hinter-Thierberg, and descend the Kehle Glacier to 
the (9 hrs.) Goschener-Alp. — Ascent of the Brunnenstock (11,5200, the 
highest of the Suttenhornet; toilsome , but interesting , in 7 hrs. from 
the Stein Inn (guide 30 fr.). 

Over the Stein-Limmi to the Trift Glacier (5 hrs. to the Graggi Hut), see 
above. Another route crosses the snow-saddle of Zwischen-Thierbergen 
(about 9780'), between the Vorder- and the Hinter-Thierberg , to the (5-6 
hrs.) Tri/thiitle (p. 127). — To Engelberg over the Wendenjoch, see p. 121. 

The bridle-path now ascends above the moraine , describing a 
long circuit to the right (which a footpath cuts off), and overlooking 
the grand Stein Glacier, environed by the Sustenhorner, Susten- 
limmi, Gwachtenhorn, Vorder- and Hinter-Thierberg, and Oigli- 
stock, to the (I1/4 hr.) Susten-Scheidegg (7420'), which affords an 
admirable survey of the imposing mountains bounding the Meien- 
thal on the N. and culminating in the Spannorter (p. 121). 

The path, now uninteresting, winds down to the Meienbach, 
a brook issuing from the Kalehthal, a wild gorge on the right, into 



ENTLEBUCH. II. Route 38. 129 

which avalanches frequently fall from the Stiicklistock (10,855') 
and the Sustenhomer (p. 128). Below us lie the Susten-Alp 
(5767^, on the right, and the (1 hr.) Ouferplatten-Alp (5725') on 
the left. The path, now level, traverses the stony valley of the Meien- 
Reuss , which consists here of several branches , and crosses the 
brook twice. It next crosses the deep ravine of the ( 3 / 4 hr.) Qorez- 
mettlenbach (5137'), and passes the Oorezmettlen - Alp . Several 
brooks issue from the Rilttifim on the right. 

The first group of houses (20 min.) is Farnigen (4787' ; Inn, 
poor) ; then (40 min.) Meien (4330' ; Inn above the chapel), con- 
sisting of several hamlets (Dorfli, Hiisen, etc.). Above Wasen we 
pass the Meienschanz (3600'), an intrenchment erected in 1712 
during the Religious War (p. 58) , and destroyed by the French 
in 1799. Descending rapidly for a short distance, and crossing the 
St. Gotthard Railway, we at length reach (1 hr.) Wasen (p. 105). 

38. From Lucerne to Bern. Entlebuch. Emmenthal. 

59 M. Rail way. in 2Vi-4hrs. (9 fr. 90, 6 fr. 95, i fr. 95 c). 

Lucerne, see p. 73. — Near the Reuss bridge the train diverges 
to the left from the Zurich line (p. 73), and passes through a 
tunnel under the Zimmeregg, 1248yds. long, into the broad dale of 
the Kleine Emme. 3 M. Littau, at the base of the wooded Sonnenberg 
(p. 77); 71/2 M. Malters (1693'; Kreuz), with a handsome church. 

Road hence to (3'/4 M.) Schwarzenberg (2760'; 'Weisses Kreuz, pens, 
incl. R. 4'/2-5 fr. ; "Kurhaus Matt, moderate), on the hill to the S., a 
pleasant summer-resort. About 2 M. above it is the rustic Kurhaus Eigen- 
thal (3475') , in a sheltered situation. (Fine view of Lucerne and its lake 
from the Wiirzenegg.) Hence to (6 M.) Kriens, via Herrgottswald, see p. 78. 

From Schachen (see below), the old Bbamegg Road leads past the (2 31.) 
Farnbiihler Bad (2310'), a well-organised Kurhaus, with a spring impreg- 
nated with iron and soda, and over the Bramegg (3366') to (5 31.) Entlebuch. 

Above Schachen (l 1 ^ M. from Malters) the valley contracts. 
The train approaches the Emme, and crosses it near Werthenstein 
(on the left), with its handsome old monastery, now a deaf-and- 
dumb asylum. Beyond a short tunnel we reach (1272 M.) Wob.1- 
hausen (1873' ; pop. 1661 ; Rossli; Kreuz), a large village, divided 
by the Emme into Wohlhausen-Wiggern on the left bank, and Wohl- 
hausen-Markt opposite. — About 6 M. to the W., at the foot of the 
flfap/(seep. 130), lies the Kurhaus Menzb erg (3314'), a health-resort. 

We here enter the Entlebuch, a valley 15 M. long, with rich 
pastures. The train recrosses the Emme and ascends the E. side 
of the valley (several embankments and four tunnels). 

171/2 M. Entlebuch (2225'; *Hdteldu Port; DreiKbnige; *Dr. 
Kagg's Pension; pop. 2720), a well-built village, picturesquely- 
situated. — Ascent of the Napf, see p. 130. 

In the Enllenthal , on the W. side of the Schimberg (p. 130), 8 31. to 
the S., is the Schimberg Bad (4677'), with an alkaline sulphur-spring. 
Road from Entlebuch to (6 M.) the Entlenbrilcke (Inn 'Zur Entlematf), 
thence by a good new road to the right (carr. to the bridge, 1-2 pers.. 
5 fr., to the Baths, 1 pers. 10, 2 pers. 14, 3 pers. 18, 4 pers. 22 fr.) to the 

Baedbjsek, Switzerland. 15th Edition. 9 



1 30 II. Route 38. EMMENTH AL. 

(3 M.) well-equipped "Kurhaus (pens. 7-8'/-j fr.). Close to the house are 
pleasant wood-walks with charming views towards the N. ; and a good 
path ascends in 1 hr. to the top of the Schimberg (5968') , which affords 
an admirable panorama. Interesting longer excursions to (IV2 hr.) ffeilig- 
kreuz (see below); to the (2>/2 hrs.) "Feuerstein (6700'), with fine view; 
to the (2>/2 hrs.) Schwendi-Kaltbad (p. 123), etc. 

The train crosses the rapid Entlenbach , which here falls into 
the Emme. On the left lies the village of Hade, prettily situated. 

22 M. Schiipfheim (2388'; pop. 2808; Adler; Rossli), the 
capital of the valley. About */2 M. from the station is the Bad and 
Kurhaus Schupfheim, with a chalybeate spring containing iodine. 
To the E. (I72 h r * s Heiligkreuz (3700'; rustic Inn), a summer- 
resort, with a fine view. 

A road (diligence twice daily in l 3 /4 hr.; carriage for one pers. 5, two 
pers. 7 fr.) leads hence to the S. through the valley of the Kleine Emme, 
the upper part of which is rocky and narrow, and past the (6 M.) pretty 
village of Fliihli (2930' ; *H6t.-Pens. Kreuzbuch), with a sulphur-spring, 
to (4'/2 M.) Sorenberg (3812'; *Inn), in the upper Emmenthal, or Marien- 
thal. The "Brienzer Rothhorn (p. 172) may be ascended hence by a new 
and easy path in 3 hrs. 

"We now cross the Kleine Emme, which rises on the Brienzer 
Rothhorn, and ascend the valley of the Weisse Emme to — 

26 M. Escholzmatt (2815'; *L'6we; Krone~), a scattered village 
(3086 inhah.), on the watershed between the Entlehuch and Em- 
menthal ; then descend to (29 M.) Wiggen (2600' ; Rossli) , follow 
the right bank of the lifts , and reach (32'/ 2 M.) Trubschachen 
(2396'), at the confluence of the Trubbach and Ilfls, the first village 
in Canton Bern. 

The -Napf (4620'; 3'/2-i hrs., guide unnecessary; "Inn at the tup, fre- 
quented as a health-resort, pens. 5-6 fr.), to the N. of Trubschachen, 
deserves a visit. A carriage-road leads via, (2'/4 M.) Trub (2675'; Inn) to 
(6 M.) Mettlen (3454' ; carriage for 1 pers. to this point, 6 fr.), and a bridle- 
path thence to the ( s /t hr.) top of the Napf, whence there is a fine pano- 
rama from the Sentis to the Dole, and a beautiful view of the Bernese 
Alps. — From Entlebuch (p. 129) a road crosses the Grosse and the Kleine 
Emme, to the W.; we then either follow the road by Dopleschwand to 
(5 M.) Romoos (2592'; Inn), or reach it by a direct path in 1 hr. ; from 
Romoos a good bridle-path leads to the top in 2'/2 hrs. more. — From 
the Napf a footpath, with an almost continuously fine view, leads via the 
(2 hrs.) Lmshiitte (rustic inn), the Liideren - Giissli (Hotel zu den Alpen, 
moderate) and the Rafriiti (see below) to (4 hrs.) Langnau (guide convenient, 
5-6 fr.). 

35Y2M. Langnau (2245'; pop. 7644; *Hirsch, moderate; *Lowe; 
Bar ; Hot. Bahnhof; Hot. Emmenthal'), a large and wealthy village, 
the capital of the Emmenthal, a valley about 25 M. long, 10-12 M. 
wide, watered by the lifts and the Grosse Emme, and one of the 
most fertile in Switzerland. The cheese of the Emmenthal is much 
esteemed; the carefully kept pastures, the fine breed of cattle, 
and the neat dwellings with their pretty gardens bear witness to 
the prosperity of the natives. 

Railway to Burgdorf , see p. 17. — The Bagesctiwand Hbhe , 1 hr. to 
the T\.W. , commands a fine view of the Emmenthal and the Alps; the 
view from the Rafriiti (3950'), 2'/< hrs. to the N. , is still more extensive 
(panorama by G. Studer). 

Beyond Langnau the train crosses the llfls and the Emme. 38 M. 



SEETHAL. II. Route 39. 131 

Emmenmatt, 40 M. Signau (2090'; Thurm; Bar), 44 M. Zaziwyl 
(Krone), thriving villages. It then skirts the Hurnberg in a wide 
curve to (46 M.) Konolfingen, 3 M. to the S.E. of which is the fre- 
quented Schwendlenbad (2830'), surrounded by fine woods. 48'/ 2 M. 
Tagertschi ; 51 M. Worb (Lowe ; Stern) , a large village with an 
old Schloss. Pleasing view of the Stockhorn chain to the left. 

From Worb a carriage-road runs to the E. to (2 M.) the frequented 
watering-place of Enggistein (2264'), situated in a pleasant mountain-valley, 
and (1 M. farther) the charmingly situated ''Riittihubelbad (2414'; un- 
pretending and moderate), with a saline chalybeate spring and a good 
view, especially line from the Knorihuhel (3027'; 35 min.). Magnificent 
views are also afforded by the Guntmegg (3208'), reached via Walkringen 
in I1/2 hr., and by the Ballenbiihl, the W. summit of the Hiirnberg, reached 
via Schlosswyl in i 3 /t hr. (descent to the station at Tagertschi in 20 min.). 

54 M. Qumlingen, junction of the Bern and Thun line (change 
carriages for Thun, p. 141). Thence to (59 M.) Bern, see p. 141. 

39. From Lucerne to Lenzburg (Aarau). The Seethal 
Railway. 

291/s M. Steam Tramway in 23/4-4 hrs.; 2nd cl. 4 fr. 85, 3rd cl. 3 fr. 
30 c. — This 'Seethal Railway' from Emmenbrucke to Lenzburg offers a 
pleasant tour, though dusty in summer. The gauge is that of the ordi- 
nary railways, the carriages of which can run on this line. 

From Lucerne to (2!/ 2 M.) Emmenbrucke, see p. 21 ; here we 
change carriages for the 'Seethalbahn', which diverges to the right. 

4 M. Emmen (1410'; Stern), near the Reuss, on the right bank 
of which, Y2 M. to the E., is the old nunnery of Rathhausen, now 
an asylum for poor children. We traverse the fertile Emmenboden 
to (6M.) Waldibruck. The line quits the road, here unsuitable for 
a tramway, and ascends, affording a fine view of the Rigi to the right, 
to (8 M.) Eschenbach(ib&0' ; Rossli; Lowe), with its large Cistercian 
Abbey and valuable gravel - pits in the vicinity. (Diligence twice 
daily in 40 min. to Gisikon, p. 72.) 

Above Eschenbach the line rejoins the road, crosses at (9 J / 2 M.) 
Ballwyl (1693') the watershed between the Reuss and the Aa, and 
descends into the Seethal, belonging partly to Lucerne and partly 
to Aargau, one of the most fertile and attractive valleys in Central 
Switzerland. This 'lake-valley', 18y 2 M. long, is bounded on the 
E. by the long Lindenberg (2953') and on the W. by the Ehrlose 
(2670') and the Homberg (2595'), and in the middle of it lie the 
pretty Baldegg Lake (or Obere See~) and the larger Hallwyl Lake 
(or Untere See~), amidst pastures sprinkled with fruit-trees. 

11 M. Hochdorf (1653'; *Hirsch~), a picturesque and prosperous 
village, with beautiful pine-woods in the vicinity. 

Excursions. On a hill to the E. (1/2 hr.) is the cantonal deaf-and-dumb 
asylum of Hohenrain (2014'), formerly a commandery of the knights of 
St. John, with a fine view of the Alps. Thence in I1/2 hr. to Schloss Hor- 
ben (2625'; p. 22), a health-resort, affording a superb view to the N. and 
E. ; then to the P/2 hr.) ruined castle of Lieli, another fine point of view, 
to (i/ 2 hr.) Augslholz (Hydropathic Establishment), and back to (7z hr.) 
Hochdorf. The whole excursion may be made by carriage. 

9* 



132 II. Route 39. LENZBURG. 

To the W. of Hochdorf roads lead by Rdmerswyl to (4 M.) Oberreinach, 
a ruined castle, with an admirable view of the Seethal and the Jura; by 
the pilgrimage-shrine of Hildisrieden to the (5 M.) chapel commemorative 
of the battle of Sempach (p. 20); and by Urswyl to (3'/2 M.) Rain, near 
which is Oberbuchen (2133'), where we obtain a picturesque survey of 
Pilatus and the Entlebuch Mts. 

12V 2 M. Baldegg (Lowe) a pretty village with an old castle, 
now a nunnery and girls' school, lies at the S. E. end of the Bal- 
degger See (1532'), a lake 3 M. long. Skirting the E. bank of the 
lake, we next reach (15 M.) Oelfingen (Stern), where the culture 
of the vine begins. On the right is the castle of Heidegg , and 
3 / 4 M. to the N. is the pretty village of Hitzkirch (Kranz ; Engel), 
once a Teutonic commandery, -with a seminary for teachers. 

To the N. of Hitzkirch a road leads by Altwis and Aesch to (5 M.) 
Fahrwangen (Bar) and Meisterschwanden (Lowe ; "Pens. Seerose), two large 
and nearly adjacent villages, where straw-plaiting is the chief industry 
(see below) ; thence by Sarmensdorf, past Sdiloss Bilfikon, to Villmergen 
and (5 M.) Wohlen (p. 22). 

Still running towards the N. W., the tramway now intersects 
the fertile plain between the lakes of Baldegg and Hallwyl. lG^M. 
Richensee, with the ruins of the Oriinenburg , which was destroyed 
in 1386, standing upon an enormous erratic block. 17M. Ermensee, 
a well-to-do village on the Aa. At (18 M.) Mosen the tramway 
reaches the Hallwyler See (1383'), a lake 5*/2 M. long and iy 4 M. 
broad, and ascends on its W. bank to — 

20 M. Beinwyl (1700'; 1679 inhab.; Lowe), a busy, thriving 
village with considerable cigar-manufactories, commanding a charm- 
ing view of the lake. 

Railway in 5 min. to (IV4 M.) Reinach (Bar) and in 9 min. to (2!/2 M.) 
Menziken (Stern), two industrial villages in the upper Winenlhal. — A 
pleasant excursion from Beinwyl is the ascent of the Bomberg (2595'), 3 /t hr. 
to the N.W. ; beautiful view of the Alps and the Jura Mts. 

The cars now run high above the lake to (21 1 / i M.) Birrwyl, 
with its large factories, and descend thence to (23'/2 M.) Boniswyl 
(Rail. Restaurant), a busy wine-trading place. 

To Fahrwangen diligence twice daily in 1 hour. The road leads past 
the handsome old chateau of Hallwyl, the ancestral seat of the distin- 
guished family of that name, to (li/s 31.) Seengen (Bar), a large village, 
with the burial-vaults of the Hallwyl family. About V2 M. to the S. E. 
is the Brestenberg Hydropathic, formerly a chateau of Hans Rudolf v. 
Hallwyl, built in 1625, prettily situated among vineyards at the N. end 
of the Lake of Hallwyl. From Brestenberg we follow the E. bank to 
Tennwyl, Meisterschwanden, and (2 M.) Fahrwangen (see above). 

24'/2 M. Niederhallwyl-n'drreniisch; 25 '/ 2 M. Scm (Stern), a 
large manufacturing village (1794 inhab.). 

29 V2 M - Lenzburg (1300'; 2501 inhab.,- *Krone; Lfiwe), a busy 
little town on the Aa, with the large cantonal prison. On a hill 
above the town, to the K.. stands the old Schloss Lenzburg (1663'; 
Frau Dr. Wedekind's Pens, and restaurant; line view). Opposite, 
to the W., rises the Slaufberg (1710'). 

From Lenzburg to Aarau and Baden, sec p. 22. 



III. BERNESE OBERLAND. 



40. Bern 134 

Enge ; Gurten ; Zimmerwald, 140. 

41. From Bern to Thun 141 

Environs of Thun ; the Gurnigelbad, 142, 143. 

42. The Niesen 143 

43. From Thun to Interlaken. Lake of Thun 144 

a. Thunersee Railway 144 

b. Steamboat Journey 145 

Sigriswyl , 146. — St. Beateuberg. lAmisbiihel; Gem- 
menalphorn, 146, 147. — Beatushcihle, 147. 

44. Interlaken and Environs 148 

Heimwehfluh ; Harder ; Schynige Platte ; Habkernthal ; 
Hohgant; Augstmatthorn ; Abendberg; Saxetenthal : 
Sulegg, 150-153. 

45. From Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen. Staubbach . . 154 

From Zweiliitschinen to Isenfluh and Miirren, 154. 

46. Upper Lauterbrunnen-Thal. Miirren. Schmadribaeh 156 

Sehilthorn, 157. — The Seflnenthal. From Miirren to 
the Obere Steinberg, 157. — From Lauterbrunnen over 
the Seflnenfurgge to the Kienthal, and over the Dtinden- 
grat to Kandersteg, 159. — From Lauterbrunnen over the 
Tschingel Pasa to Kandersteg, 159. — From Lauter- 
brunnen over the Petersgrat to the Lotschenthal, 159. — 
"Wetterliicke, Schmadrijoch , Lauinenthor, Roththal- 
Sattel, and Ebnefluhjoch, 160. 

47. From Interlaken to Grindelwald. Wengernalp . . . 160 

Jungfrau ; Silberhorn, 162. — Mettlenalp ; Guggihiitte, 
162. — Lauberhorn; Tschuggen, 163. — From Grindel- 
wald over the Eismeer to Zasenberg. Mannlichen ; 
Mettenberg ; Schreckhorn ; Mbnch ; Eiger, 165. — From 
Grindelwald over the Strahlegg and the Finsteraarjoch 
or Lauteraarjoch to the Grimsel Hospice, 165. — From 
Grindelwald over the Jungfraujoch, Monchjoch, Eiger- 
joch, and Fiescherjoch to the Eggishorn, 166. 

48. The Faulhorn 166 

Rothihorn ; Schwarzhorn, 168. — From the Schynige Platte 
to the Faulhorn, 168. 

49. From Grindelwald to Meiringen. Baths of Rosenlaui. 
Falls of the Reichenbach 168 

Wetterhorn ; Berglistock, 168. — Rosenlaui Glacier, 
169. — Dossenhiitte; Wetterlimmi , 170. — Gorges of 
the Aare and the Alpbach ; Hasliberg ; Hohenstollen, 171. 

50. From Meiringen to Interlaken. Lake of Brienz . . . 172 

Brienzer Rothhorn, 172. — Road from Brienz to Inter- 
laken, 173. 

51. The Giessbach 173 

Enge; Axalp; Hinterburg-See, 174. — Ascent of the 
Faulhorn from the Giessbach, 174. — From the Giess- 
bach to Interlaken, 174. 

() 



134 III. Route 40. BERN. Hotels. 



52. From Meiringen to the Rhone Glacier. Grimsel . . 174 

Urbach-Thal 5 GauliPass; Berglijoch; Dossenhutte, 175. 
— Kleine Siedelhorn; Unteraar Glacier; Dullfus Pavil- 
ion ; Ewigschneehorn ; Finsteraarhorn , 177. — From the 
Grimsel over the Oberaarjoch nr the Studerjoch to 
Fiesch, 178. 

53. From Spiez to the Gemmi and Leuk 179 

From Spiez to Aeschi and Miihlenen. Renggli Pass; 
Morgenberghorn ; Schwalmern, 179. — Kienthal; Gamchi 
liicke ; Biittlassen ; Gspaltenhorn ; Wilde Frau, 180. — 
The Blaue See, 180. — Oeschinen-See; Bliimlisalp; 
Doldenhorn; Friindenhorn; Diindenhorn, 181. — Balm- 
horn ; Altels, 182. — Excursions from Bad Leuk ; Torrent- 
horn, etc., 184. 

54. The Adelhoden Valley 185 

Excursions and ascents from Adelboden. Bonderspitz. 
Elsighorn. Albrist. Gsiir. Lohner. Wildstrubel etc. 
From Adelboden to the Lenk via the Hahnenmoos; to 
Kandersteg via, the Bonderkrinden or the Allmen-Grat; 
to Schwarenbach via the Engstligen-Grat, 185, 186. 

55. From Gampel to Kandersteg. Lotschen Pass . . . 186 

Hohgleifen ; Bietschhorn, 187. — From Ried to Leuk 
over the Ferden Pass, the Gitzi-Furgge, the Resti Pass, 
the Faldum Pass, or the Niven Pass, 187. 

56. From Thun to Sion over the Rawyl 188 

Source of the Simme, 188. — The Oberlaubhorn; Miilker- 
blatt; Iffigensee; Wildhorn; Rohrbachstein ; Wildstru- 
bel, 189. — From Lenk to Gsteig, Saanen, and Leuk, 189. 

57. From Thun to Saanen through the Simmenthal . . 190 

From Latterbach to Matten through the Diemtiger 
Thai, 191. — Stockhorn, 191. — Bad Weiesenburg; over 
the Gantrist Pass to the Gurnigelbad, 191. — From 
Reidenbach to Bulle, 191. — From Saanen to Chateau 
d'Oex, 192. 



40. Bern. 

Hotels. ,! Berneehof (PI. a; C, 5), adjoining the Federal Hall, R. & A. 
4-5, D. 5fr.; -Bellevcb (PI. b; D,5), R., L., & A. 3V2-4V2, D. 4 fr.; both these 
command a view of the Alps. 'Schweizebhof (PI. c; C, 4), near the station, 
R., L., & A. 31/2, D. 41/2 fr.; 'Faucon (PI. d; D, 4), Marktgasse, R. & L. 3'/ 2 , 
D. 3V2 fr. — "Hotel de France (PI. g; G, 3, 4), R., L., & A. 3, D. 3 fr.; 
'Hotel du Juba (PI. h; B, 4), R., L., & A. 21/2-31/2 fr. ; Hiesch (PI. i; C, 4), 
these three near the station. — In the town : "Pfistern (Hdtel des Boulangers, 
PI. k; E, 4), near the clock-tower; "Storch (PI. 1; C, 4), "Lowe (PI. m; 

C, 4), both moderate; Mohe (PI. n; F, 4); Schmieden (Marichaux, PI. p; 

D, 4); Hotel-Pension Rdof (PI. e; C, 4), Waisenhaus-Platz ; "Sternen 
(PI. u ; C, 3), Aarberger^asse, plain, R. 2-2'/2, D. 3 fr. ; "Hotel zo Webeen 
(H6t. des Tuserands; PI. q; D, 4) and Hotel zu Zimmerleuten (PI. t; 
D 4), both in the Marktgasse; these last all moderate. — Unpretending: 
Schlussel (PI. r: E, 4) ; "Bar, near the station, R. 2V2-3, D. 3 fr. ; Wilder 
Mann (PI. s; C, 3, 4), Aarberger Str., R. 2, B. l'/i, D. 3fr. ; Emmenthaleb 
Hof, Neue Gasse; Kbeuz, Zeughausgasse, moderate. — *Pens. Heetee 
(PI. o; F, 4), well situated, near the cathedral; Pens. Schanzenberg, near 
the Schanzli; ,; Tens. Jolimont, Aussere Enge (l'/2 M.; p. 140), witli tine 
view (5-6 fr.); Pension & Restadrant Schloss Beemuarten, prettily sit- 
uated on a peninsula in the Aare, 2 ! /4 M. to the N. (road via Felsenau) ; 




Wildgenrt Hangendglfctscherh r ^tterh" BerglittAck Gr.Schreckh 1 



Fa ^" Gr.Lauteraarh" s, ™^, le gg 



tiger Monoh 




fraii GletBcherh? Ebnefluh Mtttagh? Gr °?J h - 

1 sil a b 7 B r s hr Aljuchh" ^hwalmem: 

. , , , , 1'8S chill- 

SuteSS ■ Lobhorner 



tfvi 



: ' : U* 



Sreilh" Gspaltanh? B 1 u m T i s a 1 p Frundenhr 1 

M Tschingelh? Morgenh? WeisseFrau 

L6tscWh.Braithr- Se " "^Bliimlisalph? 

B(iim(i5alpstoqk 



Doldenhoni 

! Bettflul 







ALPENAUSSICHT AUS BERN 

vom Klosterlioi' bei der Eii'clietifeldbnirkc f538m !. 



Baths. BERN. III. Route 40. 135 

*Pens. Victoria (5-6 fr.), on the Schanzli (p. 140), for invalids ; "Pens. Hug, 
in the Mattenhof, >/ 4 M. from the town (for surgical cases). 

Cafes and Restaurants. "Rail. Restaurant, D. 2 ] /2 fr. ; "Cafi Casino 
near the Federal Hall, terrace with view of the Alps ; "Restaurant Cassani, 
in the Museum (p. 138); Cafi Bema; Cafi Sternwarte, on the 'Grosse 
Schanze' (PL B, 3) ; Cafi du Thidtre ; Schwellenmatteli, on the Aare ; Miitzen- 
berg, Kesslergasse, moderate. At the W. pavilion on the Miinster- Terrasse 
(p. 137) refreshments are sold after 1 p.m. (Sundays after 4 p.m.) ; music 
occasionally in the evening, and on Sun. 11-12 a.m. — Outside the town : 
Cafi Schanzli (p. 140), beyond the railway-bridge (V2 M.), on the lofty right 
hank of the Aare (concert or summer-theatre daily); "Cafi in the Enge 
(p. 140), 1 M. from the Aarberg Gate ; Schloss Bremgarten, 2i/ 4 M. to the N. 
(see above). — Beer. Krone, Gerechtigkeitsgasse; "Cafi National, Bdren, 
della Casa, Schauplatzgasse ; "Cafi Rhyn, Baren-Platz; Cafi du Pont, Cafi 
Sternwarte (see above). Bernese beer: Hahnen ; * Cafi Cassani, Baren-Platz; 
Stadlgarten, Neuengasse. 

Confectioner. G. Stroebel-Durheim, Bahnhofs-Platz. 

Alpine Boots. Buhrer, Spitalgasse ; Scheidegger, Waisenhaus-Platz. — 
Cognac, Madeira, etc. at Bemme's, Aarziel. 

Zahnd's Museum of Alpine animals , Untere Alpenegg, Enge-Str. 10 
(PI. B, 2 ; to the left of the railway-bridge, on the way to the Enge), worth 
seeing (open daily 9-12 and 2-6, 1 fr. ; Sun. '/a fr.). — Diorama of the 
Bliimlisalp, Bundesgasse (50 c). 

Baths. Bilrki Bad (swimming bath) at the Holz-Platz, in the Aarziel 
(PI. C, D, 6; cable- tramway, see p. 138). River Baths (Laufenegg Bad) below 
the small Nydeck Bridge, by the 'Pelikan' (PI. G, 3), and in the Altenberg- 
bad. Water of the Aare very cold (65-68° F.). Swimming Baths (also warm 
baths) in the Lorraine, 8 min. from the Schanzli (p. 140; water 77-810 F.). 
— Warm Baths (Turkish, etc.) at Biichler's ; Frickbad, below the Miinster- 
Terrasse. 

Cabs. One-horse, for 1/4 hr. 1-2 pers. 80c, 3-4 pers. lfr. 20c. ; each 
additional l /t hr. 40 or 60c. Two-horse: same fares as for 3-4 pers. with 
one horse. Box 20 c, small articles free. From 10 p. m. to 6 a.m., double 
fares. Whole day, i.e. over 8hrs., 1-2 pers. 15fr., 3-4 pers. 20fr. 

Tramway (moved by compressed air) from the Bears'Den through the 
chief street to the railway station, and thence on to the 'Linde 1 (Bremgarten 
Cemeterv; fares 10-20 c.) and hack. Omnibus from the Kafigthurm to 
Wabern"(p. 140). 

Post and Telegraph Office (PL 15), near the station. Branch-office in 
the Kramgasse, at the old post-office. 

Theatres. SchUnzli Theater (p. 141), daily in summer, 8 p.m. ; 3, 2, 1, 
V2 fr- — Stadt Theater (PL 19; D, E, 4), closed in summer. 

British Minister, F. R. St. John, Wallgasse 2; office-hours 11-1. — 
American Minister, James O. Broadhead; Vice -Consul /. E. Hinnen, 
HirscheDgraben 6. — English Church Service in the Hall of the Lerber 
Schule, Naegeligasse 2 (10.30 a.m. ; evening services at 5 p.m. during the 
summer months and at 4 p.m. in the winter months). 

Official Intelligence Bureau ( Verkehrsbureau), Laupen-Str. 1, furnishes 
information gratis as to sights, excursions, etc. 

Attractions. Visit the 'Kleine Schanze' and the Federal Council 
Hall ; then the Kirchenfeldbrucke and the Cathedral (Miinster-Terrasse and 
Erlach Monument); follow the Kreuzgasse to the Rafhhaus; across the 
Nydeckbrucke to the Bears' Den; return past the Zeitglockthurm to the 
Corn Market, and cross the Waisenhaus-Platz to the museums ; lastly cross 
the railway-bridge to the Schanzli and then return to the station. 

Bern (1765'), the capital of Canton Bern, with 47,151 inhab. 
(including its extensive suburbs), has been the seat of the Swiss 
government since 1848. Founded by Duke Berthold V. of Zahrin- 
gen in 1191, the town became independent of the Empire in 1218. 
By 1288 its powers had so increased that it warded off two sieges by 



136 III. Route 40. BERN. Rathhaus. 

Rudolph of Hapsburg, and in 1339 the Bernese overthrew the 
Burgundian nobles at the battle of Laupen (p. 203). In 1353 Bern 
joined the Confederation, and in 1528 the citizens embraced the 
reformed faith. In 1415 they conquered part of Aargau, and in 
1536 they wrested the Pays de Vaud from the princes of Savoy; but 
in 1798 they were deprived of these territories. 

The city, in a striking situation, is built on a peninsula of sand- 
stone-rock, formed by the Aare, which flows 100' below. Most of 
the broad principal streets run from E. to W. Those in the old 
part of the town are flanked with arcades (Lauben), which form a 
covered way for foot-passengers. One of the chief characteristics 
of Bern consists in its numerous fountains, most of them dating 
from the 16th cent., adorned with statues of every variety (Samson, 
Themis, an Archer, a Bagpiper, an Ogre, etc.). In other respects 
also Bern still retains more mediaeval features than any other large 
town in Switzerland. 

The chief artery of traffic is a series of broad streets , called 
the Spitalgasse, the Marktgasse, the Kramgasse, and the Gerechtig- 
keitsgasse, which extend from the Obere Thor (PI. B, 4) to the Ny- 
deck Bridge (PL G, H, 4), a distance of nearly a mile. In this 
street are situated the Kafigthurm (PI. 20), now a prison, and the 
Zeitglockenthurm (PI. 21 ; E, 4), once the E. gate of the town, 
but now its central point, rebuilt in 1770, and recently decorated 
with frescoes. On the E. side is a curious clock, which announces 
the approach of each hour by the crowing of a cock , while 2 min. 
before the hour a troop of bears marches in procession round a sit- 
ting figure. Being the heraldic emblem of Bern, the bear frequently 
recurs. Thus, on the neighbouring Barenbrunnen (PI. 2), Bruin 
appears with shield, sword, banner, and helmet. Two bears also 
support a shield in the pediment of the Corn Hall (PI. 12), a hand- 
some building, which down to 1830 always contained a store of corn 
to be used in case of famine (wine-cellar below, much frequented; 
the largest cask contains about 8800 gal.). On the first floor is the 
cantonal Industrial Museum (collection of samples and models, open 
10-12 and 2-4, Sun. 10-12, gratis). The Kornhaus-Platz is embell- 
ished with the grotesque Kindlifresser-Brunnen [Ogre Fountain; 
PI. 3; D, 4); the ogre is about to devour a child, while other in- 
nocents protrude from his pocket and girdle. 

At the E. end of the opposite Metzgergasse are the modern 
Old Catholic Church (PI. 11), in the Romanesque -Gothic style, 
designed by Deperthes of Rheims, and the cantonal Rathhaus or 
Town Hall (PI. 16; F, 4), erected in 1406, and restored in 1868, 
approached by a handsome flight of steps, and adorned with the 
arms of the Bernese districts. 

In the Postgasse, a little farther to the right, is the interesting 15th 
century Chapel of St. Anthony. The doors on the S. side, the unfinished 
apse, and the crypt on the K. side, in the I'ostgasshalde, should be 
noticed, as also the frescoes in the carpenter's shop on the 1st floor. 



Cathedral. BERN. III. Route 40. 137 

The keys may be obtained on application to Mr. Zbinden, Postgasse 66. 
(If sufficient funds can be raised, it is proposed to restore this chapel as 
an English church.) 

The "Cathedral, or Munster (PL E, F, 4, 5), a fine late-Gothic 
structure, 93 yds. long, 37 yds. broad. , and. 76' high, was begun 
in 1421, completed in 1598, and restored in 1850. Round the whole 
of the roof runs a beautiful open Balustrade, the design of which is 
different between each pair of buttresses. The W. Portal is remark- 
ably fine ; the sculptures represent the Last Judgment ; in the 
outer arches are Christ, above, with the Virgin and John the Baptist 
on the left and right, and the Twelve Apostles ; in the inner (small- 
er) arches are the Prophets and the Wise and Foolish Virgins. 
The unfinished Tower, 134' high, is now to be finished from plans 
of the German architect Beyer. 

Intebioe (adm. 20c.)- The Choir contains Stained Glass of 1496, one 
window representing the dogma of Transubstantiation , another the Life 
of Christ. The Choir Stalls (1522) are adorned on one side with Apos- 
tles, on the other with Prophets. A monument with the armorial bearings 
of Berthold von Zdhringen , the founder of Bern (see p. 135) , was erected 
by the city in 1600. Another in memory of the magistrate Friedrich von 
Steiger, bears the names of the 702 Bernese who fell on 5th March, 1798, 
at the Grauholz , 6 II. to the N. of Bern , in an engagement with the 
French. In front of this is a Pieta in marble, by Tscharner (1870). The 
organ rivals that of Freiburg (performance four times weekly in summer 
at 8; tickets, 1 fr., at the hotels or from the verger or 'Sigrist'). 

The Platz in front of the cathedral is adorned with an Equestrian 
Statue of Rudolph von Erlach (PI. 6), the victor at Laupen (p. 203), 
in bronze, designed by Volmar of Bern, and erected in 1848, with 
bears at the corners, and inscriptions and trophies on the pedestal. 

The 'Cathedral Terrace (Munster- Terrasse; PI. F, 5), rising 
abruptly 110' above the Aare, formerly the churchyard, is now a 
shady promenade with seats , adorned with a bronze statue of Ber- 
thold von Zdhringen (PL 7; p. 135), designed by Tscharner, with 
Bruin as a helmet-bearer. The view from this terrace, as indeed 
from every open space in Bern, is justly celebrated. In clear weather 
the panorama of the Bernese Alps witnessed here is more extensive 
than from any other spot in the Oberland. 

'Views. The most important mountains are marked in the annexed 
Panorama. From other points (the Miinz-Terrasse, Casino-Garden, Bundes- 
Rathhaus, Kleine Schanze, Cafe Schanzli, and the Enge outside the Aar- 
berger Thor) the following mountains are also visible: — To the right of 
the Doldenhorn, the Balmhorn (12,180') with the Allels (11,930'; 37 M. 
distant), and over the Gurten, the bell-shaped summit of the Stockhorn 
(7195'; 18 M.) ; also, to the extreme left, the peaks of the Spannbrter (10,515'; 
53 M.) and the Schlossberg (10,280'; 54 M.), both in the canton of Uri ; the 
crest of the Bduchlen near Escholzmatt (5810'; 24 M.), and the Feuerstein 
above the Entlebuch (6700'; 30 M.). 

These mountains present a sublime spectacle at sunset in fine weather, 
especially when the W. horizon is partially veiled with thin clouds, and 
the phenomenon called the Alpengluhen ('Glow of the Alps 1 ) is produced. 
Long after the shadows have fallen upon the valleys, and the lingering 
rays of the setting sun have faded from the snowy peaks themselves, the 
mountains begin to glow from their bases upwards, as if illumined by a 
bright internal fire. 



138 III. Route 40. BERN. Histor. Museum. 

The Historical Museum (PL 14; E, 5; Tues. and Sat. 3-5, Sun. 
lO^-l^; at other times 1 pers. 1 ft. ; for 2-5 pers. 50 c. each) con- 
tains archaeological and historical collections , including antiquities 
from lake-dwellings and tombs, Swiss implements of the flint, bronze, 
and iron periods, ancient weapons from the arsenal of Bern, valuable 
Burgundian tapestry , the fleld-altar of Charles the Bold, enriched 
with gilding and precious stones (captured at Grandson), etc. 

Adjoining the museum, on the S., is the University (PI. 22; 
5-600 students), founded in 1834; on the N. side is the Town Li- 
brary (PI. 1; open on week-days 2-4 p.m. to those accompanied 
by one of the library officials) , containing numerous histories of 
Switzerland; and the University Library. 

To the S., the *Kirchenfeldbrucke (PI. E, 5; splendid view), a 
huge iron bridge built in 1882-83, 751' long, 115' above the Aare, 
crosses the Aare to the Helvetia-Platz in the Kirchenfeld, where a 
new quarter of the town is being erected. On the S. side of the 
square the new Swiss National Museum is now under construction. 

The best view of the bridge is obtained from the Munzterrasse 
(PI. 13), immediately above it, on the left bank. To the "W., in 
the Inselgasse, is the New Bundes-Rathhaus (PI. D, 5), a palatial 
building erected in 1888-92 from Auer's designs, resembling the 
Altes Bundes-Rathhaus, but of larger dimensions, destined for the 
departments of war and agriculture. — In the Casino-Platz (PI. C, 6), 
to the right, is the Museum, a club (introduction by a member), with 
a facade adorned with statues of celebrated Bernese by Dorer. 

In the Bundesgasse, on the left, rises the *Tederal Council 
Hall {Altes Bundes-Rathhaus, PL C, 5), a handsome edifice in the 
Florentine style, 400' long and 165' broad, designed by Stadler and 
Studer, and completed in 1857 (porter on the right of the principal 
entrance; entrance free). The sittings of the two legislative assem- 
blies, usually held in July and Dec, are open to the public. The 
debates, which are generally very keen, are in German or French. 
Rulings of the president, motions, resolutions, etc., are announced 
in both languages. On the third floor is a collection of antiquities 
from lake-dwellings and another of coins (adm. daily 10-12 and 
2-4). The roof (75 ft. high) commands the most extensive *View 
in Bern. 

In front of the Bundes Rathhaus is a fountain-figure of Berna, 
in bronze, on a pedestal adorned with figures of the four Seasons. 

Between the Council H;ill and the Rernerhof is a Cable Tramway, 360' 
long (gradient 3: 10), opened in 1KS5, which descends to the bathing establish- 
ments in the Aarziele (p. 135). Trains every 6 min.; fare 10 c. 

To the "W. of this point, passing the Bernerhof , a few paces 
bring us to the promenades on the *Kleine Schanze (PL B, C, 5), 
whioh affords a superb survey of the Bernese Alps (comp. p. 137; 
Panorama by Imfeld), with the Aarethal and the Kirchenfeldbrucke 
in the foreground and the town to the left. In the grounds is a 
bust of Niggeler, the 'Turnvatn' (promoter of gymnastics). 



Kunst- Museum. BERN. III. Route 40. 139 

The Kunst- Museum in the Waisenhaus-Str. (PI. C, 3), a fine 
Renaissance building, contains the municipal Picture Gallery 
(50 c, daily 9-12 and 2-5; Sun. 10i/ 2 -12 gratis). 

On the Ground Floor are two rooms to the left containing sculptures 
and casts (1st: Imhof, Atalanta, Eve, Hagar and Ishmael ; Tscharner, Pieta ; 
Lanz, General Dufonr. 2nd: Casts from the antique). — The vestibule 
of the Upper Floor contains statues of Rebecca, Miriam, Ruth, and 
David, by Imhof; busts of Bianca Capello and of an Arab sheikh, after 
Marcello (p. 204) ; Burnand, Herd leaving the mountain-pasture. On the left, 
three cabinets with early German, Italian and Netherlandish pictures. — 
Room I. (left) 241. Castan, The first snow on the Oeschinen Lake; 190. 
Metier, Children from Oberhasli; 152. Pixis, Huss parting from his friends ; 
246. Rnedisuhli , Deserted Castle ; "147. Veillon , Spring morning on the 
Lake of Brienz ; 167. Humbert , Cattle crossing a river ; 183. E. Girardet, 
Going to school; Bocion, Fishing-boat near St. Saphorin; 175. D' 1 Orschwiller, 
Ape concert; 198. D. Meyer, Girl from the Simmenthal ; 160. F. Diday, 
Chalet in the Bernese Oberland; Schrader, Abdication ofEmp. Henry IV. ; 
*251. Staebli, Landscape in the canton of Ticino ; 141. A. de Meuron, 
Chamois-hunter ; Massarani , Interior of a harem ; Steffan , Alpine lake ; 
189. Dietler, Children of Iseltwald ; Aerrti, Italian street scene. — II. Room. 
202. Frblicher, Handegg; 226. Buchser, Among the waves; *153. Anker, The 
examination; :; 172. Roller, Cow and calf in the mountains; 142. A. de 
Meuron, The dying husband; 157. A. Calame, Waterfall near Meiringen; 
135. Moritz, The husband in the tavern; 201. Frblicher, Bavarian landscape; 
218. K. Girardet. Hay -making in the Bernese Oberland; 4 165. Vautier, 
Saying grace; 168. Simon, On the road; 138. Ritz, Engineers among the 
mountains; 280. Fanart, Wooded valley in the Jura; 173. Preller, Sea 
piece ; 154. Anker, The dead friend. — III. Room. 224. Zimmermann, Arolla 
Glacier; 197. Harrer, Olevano; J. Girardet, Lake shore; Jeanmaire, Pine 
wood; 146. K. Girardet, Battle of Morat; 215. P. Robert, Echo; Castan, 
Wood near Colombier; 143. A. de Meuron, Summer; 185. Walthard, Skir- 
mish in the Grauholz; 145. Zelger, Putting in the horses; 174. Potter, 
Evening landscape in Italy; *161. Diday, Valley of Lauterbrunnen ; *Bach- 
mann, Going to baptism in winter; 195. Ziind, Forest landscape in autumn; 
199. Tobler, Checkmate; Veillon, Tombs of the Khalifs; 240. Giron, The 
model; 223. Frisching, Iseltwald; Arthur Calame, Sunrise near the Lake of 
Geneva. — Room IV. Eberle, Morning at a Bavarian Alp; 193. Snell, Fall 
of the Schmadribach ; 158. Steffan, Scene near Meiringen; 156. Al. Calame, 
Scene near the Handegg; 131. E. Girardet, Love-suit; 164. Prevost, Wood 
near the Great Scheidegg; 200. Millner, Bavarian Alp. — Cabinet V. (right) 
182. Schuler, Scene at the siege of Strassburg 1870; 127. L. Robert, Italian 
woman (study) ; 163. George, Landscape near Geneva. — Cabinets VI. and 
VII. Early Swiss paintings, water-colours, drawings, etc. 

Opposite is the Natural History Museum (PI. C, 3 ; in summer, 
Tues. and Sat. 2-5, and Sun. 10y 2 -12, free; on other days, 8-6, 
adm. 1 fr. ; for 2-6 pers., 50 c. each, larger parties 3 fr.). 

To the right on the ground-floor is the Collection of Minerals , which 
includes some magnificent crystals (rock-crystal , smoky topaz from the 
Tiefen Glacier on the Furka, p. 117). Bust of B. Studer (d. 1887). To the 
left, Fossils. *Relief of the Bernese Oberland by Ed. Beck. — On the first 
floor is the Zoological Collection. On the staircase is a group of chamois. 
In the central saloon, with ceiling-frescoes by Baldancoli, are large rumi- 
nants. In the room on the left, birds and eggs. In the room on the right, 
mammalia. Adjacent a small room devoted to the Swiss fauna. — On the 
2nd floor, to the left, amphibia, fish, and marine animals; to the right, 
conchylia, crabs, and insects. 

Adjoining theMuseum on theE. is the large new School Building 
(PI. C, 3), accommodating the Gymnasium and Commercial School. 
— To the W. of the town, in the Freiburger Strasse, is the new 



140 III. Route 40. BERN. Schanzli. 

Inselspital, a hospital admirably equipped for the treat ment of 330 
patients. — In the *Grosse Schanze. above the station to the W. 
(PI. A, B,3,4), with promenades and extensive view, are the Observ- 
atory, the Head Offices of the Jura-Simplon Railway, the Maternity 
Hospital, and a bust of President Stampfli (d. 1879). 

Crossing the Railway Bridge (p. 17), at theN.W. end of the town, 
we pass the Botanic Garden (PI. D, 2) , with a bust of Albeit 
von Haller, and reach (V2 M tne *Schanzli(Pl.D, E, 2; Cafe and 
Summer Theatre, p. 135 ; adm. for non-customers 50 c), with a terrace 
and grounds commanding the finest view near Bern. In the fore- 
ground lies the picturesque city ; above it rises the wooded Gurten ; 
to the left are the Bernese Alps, and to the right the Stockhorn chain, 
adjoined by the Freiburg Mts. ; to the extreme W. is the Moleson. 

The large Military Depot of Canton Bern, in the Beundenfeld 
beyond the Schanzli , erected in 1874-78 at a cost of 4y 2 million 
francs, comprises an arsenal, offices, stables with riding-school6, 
and a large barrack. The Arsenal contains large stores of weapons, 
and in the 'Antiquitatensaal' are various curiosities (fee). 

On the E. side of Bern the Aare is crossed by the handsome 
Nydeck Bridge (PI. Gr, H, 5), in three arches, built in 1844 by K. 
E. Miiller. The central arch has a span of 165', and is 100' high. 
On the right bank of the Aare is the Bears' Den (Barengraben), where 
Bruin is maintained, according to immemorial usage, at the cost of 
the municipality. Bread and fruit are the only offerings permitted. 
— From this point the Thuner Stalden, a handsome avenue of 
plane-trees, affording a fine view of the town, ascends to the right, 
whence we may return to the (20 min.) centre of the town by the 
Marien - Strasse, and the Kirchenfeldbriicke (p. 138). 

To the N., 1 M. from the Aarberg Gate, on the left bank of the Aare, 
past the Deer and Chamois Park, is the "Enge, a large peninsula nearly 
surrounded by the Aare, rising high above it, and commanding an ad- 
mirable view. The finest point is the cafe (p. 135), surrounded by pleasant 
shady grounds and adjoined by the beautiful Bremgarten Forest. 

The view from the : Gurten (2825'; Inn), a long hill to the S. of Bern, 
embraces, besides the Bernese Alps (p. 137), the Stockhorn chain, the Frei- 
burg Alps, the Jura for a distance of 100 M., with parts of the Lake of 
Neuchatel ; and, to the left, the Unterwald and Lucerne Mts. as far as Pi- 
latus. The ror.d from Bern to the (4 M.) Gurten, leads through the Aarziel 
to the Caft Schonegg and (H/s 31.) Wabern, from both of which points 
paths also ascend to the top. On the hillside arc the Bachiden and Vic- 
toria asylums for deserted children. 

Above Belp (p. 143), 5 M. to the S. of Bern, lies Zimmerwald (2815'; 
Hot. -Pens. Beau-Sejour), charmingly situated, and (4 31. farther) Biitschelegg 
(3470'; Inn), with an extensive view. — During a longer stay, excursions 
may be undertaken to the Bantiger (3113'; 4 hrs.), to the Belpberg (3592'; 
43/4 hrs.), and to the Falkenfluh (3410 1 ; 4 hrs., sec p. 141). 



141 
41. From Bern to Thun. 

Comp. Map, p. 148. 
I91/2 M. Railway (Centralbahn) in 1 hr. (3 fr. 35, 2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 70 c). 
View to the right as far as Miinsingen; thence to Uttigen on the left. 

— Through-trains from Bern to Interlaken (Thunersee Railway, p. 144). 
Travellers preferring the steamboat journey descend at the station of Thun- 
See (formerly Scherzligen), V2 M. beyond Thun, and go on board there. 
Railway tickets are available for the steamboat and vice versa. 

Bern, see p. 134. On the Wylerfeld (p. 17) the train turns 

to the right, affording an admirahle survey of the Alps to the right; 

to the left is the lunatic asylum of Waldau. 3 M. Ostermundingen. 

— 5 M. Giimlingen (Hot. Mattenhof), junction for Lucerne (p. 131). 
About 2 l /i M. to the E. is the finely-situated *Pension Dentenberg 
(2325')- The Giebel (1/4 hr.) commands a fine view. — 8 M. 
Bubigen ; 10 M. Miinsingen. On the right rise the Stockhorn and 
Niesen, on the left the Monch, Jungfrau, and Bliimlisalp. I2Y2 M. 
Wichtrach; 14!/ 2 M. Kiesen. From this point a road ascends via 
Diesbach in 2y 2 hrs. to the Falkenfluh (3410'), a health-resort 
with an unpretending *Inn and a fine view. Near (15^2 M.) Uttigen 
we cross the Aare. On the right near Thun is a large barrack. 

19Y2 M. Thun. — Hotels. -Thdnek Hof or Geand Hotel, beautifully 
situated on the left bank of the Aare, R., L., & A. from 5, B. l'/j, D. 4'/2- 
5fr.; "Bellevue, on the right bank, with extensive grounds, R., L., & A. 
from 4, B. IV2, lunch 3'/2, D. 5, pens. 11 fr. ; Hot.-Pens. Baumgarten, with 
garden, R., L., & A. 3-5, D. 4, pens. 6-10 fr. ; Feeienbof, by the steam- 
boat-quay, with cafe-restaurant and garden on the Aare, R. & A. 2'/2-3, I'. 

3, B. l'/4 fr-; *Falkeh, with terrace on the Aare, R. 2-3, D. 3 fr. ; "Kreuz, 
R. 2, D. 3 fr. ; !, Khone, adjoining the Town Hall, R., L., & A. 2V2 fr.; 
Schweizeehof, at the station ; Ochsen, unpretending. — *Pens. Itten, on 
the Amsoldingen road, 6V2 fr. ; Pens. Eichbuhl, on the lake, near Hilter- 
fingen, 2 M. to the S.E. 

Cafes. Fveienhof (see above) ; Cafi du Casino, on the way to the Belle- 
vue. Beer at the Freienhof, the Cafi du Pont, on the way to the railway- 
station, and the Schliissel, by the Lauithor. — Kuegakten. Concerts daily 
3.30-5 and 8-10 p.m. Adm. 50 c.j weekly ticket 2, monthly 5 fr. 

Baths in the very rapid and cold Aare, to the N. of the town, 50 c. 
Warm Baths at the Balliz Baths. — Boat on the lake, according to tariff, 
3 fr. per hour, 2 hrs. 5 fr., 3 hrs. 7, 1/2 day 8, whole day lOfr. ; but better 
terms may sometimes be made. — Carved Wood at J. Kofler^s, in the garden 
of the Bellevue. — Tekeacottas at Schoch-LaederacVs (see below). 

Cab to or from the station 1 fr. Carriage with one horse the first hr. 

4, with two horses 7 fr., each addit. hr. 3 and 5 fr. To Wimmis 6 or 10, 
to Kandersrfeg 20 or 38, to Weissenburg 13 or 24, to Zweisimmen 28 or 
30, Saanen 35 or 60, Gsteig 40 or 70, Chateau d'Oex 40 or 70, Aigle 80 or 
150, Gurnigel 30 or 50 fr. 

English Chapel in the grounds of the Bellevue. 

Thun (1844'; pop. 5507), charmingly situated on the Aare, 
8/4 M. below its efflux from the lake, forms a fitting portal to the 
beauties of the Oberland. The principal street is curious. In 
front of the houses projects a row of warehouses and cellars, 
10-12' high, on the flat roofs of which is the pavement for foot- 
passengers , flanked with the shops. Thun is the centre of the 
trade of the Oberland. The Keramia Museum (Schoch-L<ederach) 
contains a fine exhibition of terracottas, majolica, etc. (for sale). 



142 III. Route 41. THUN. 

Near the bridge (to the left) a covered way of 218 steps (and 
to the right of the bridge, at the Pens. Baumgarten, a road without 
steps) ascends to the Church, erected in 1738. *View from the 
churchyard , embracing the old-fashioned town , the two arms of 
the rapid river, the fertile and partly wooded plain, and the Niesen, 
beyond which the snow-fields of the Doldenhorn and the Blumlisalp 
are visible . — Near the churchyard rises the large square tower of the 
old Castle of Zahringen-Kyburg with a turret at each corner, erected 
in 1182, and within the walls of the castle is the Amts-Schloss, or 
residence of the Bernese bailiffs, erected in 1429. From the 
'Schloss-Promenade', beside the tower, we obtain a beautiful view, 
to the S.W., of the town, the valley of the Aare, and the Stockhorn 
chain. A road, ending in a covered flight of steps, descends hence 
to the market-place. 

Thun is the seat of the Federal Military School for officers and 
sergeants, chiefly of artillery and engineers, and contains the federal 
manufactories of ammunition. Military manoeuvres take place here 
annually on the 'Almend', or common. 

Walks. Above the town on the right bank of the Aare, through the 
Bellevue grounds to the O/4 hr.) "Pavilion St. Jacques (Jakobshubeli, 2100'), 
commanding the lake, the Alps, Thun, and the valley of the Aare. Higher 
up (8 and 10 min.) are two other 'pavilions' (Obere and Untere Wart), the 
higher of which affords a charming survey of Thun and the valley of the 
Aare. — Another walk is by the road on the right (N.) bank of the Aare 
and of the lake across the Bachimalt, with its pretty grounds and Alpine 
view (Eiger, Monch, Jungfrau, Blumlisalp , Doldenhorn , etc.) , to the (20 
min.) Chartreuse (the property of the Parpart family). Here (or by a shorter 
path 8 min. farther hack) we turn to the left, passing the BachihSlili, 
cross (10 min.) the Uiinibach, and follow a path through the picturesque 
Kohleren Ravine, where the brook forms several small falls. This path 
ascends to the Griisisbergwald (see below) and the Goldiwyl road (1/2 hr.). 
On the Bern road , 3 M. to the N.W. of Thun , lies Heimberg, with 
extensive potteries. — To the N. of Thun (Ufa M. ; diligence 6 times 
daily in 20 min.; carr. with one horse 3 fr.) is the considerable village 
of Steffisburg (brewery), whence we may ascend in '.'a hr. to the small 
Schnittweyer-Bad (trout), with its mineral spring. — Charming walk on the 
Qoldiwyl Road, which diverges to the right from the Steffisburg road, at 
the 'Bubeli\ a few hundred yards to the N. of the town. (A shorter path 
ascends to the right at the Pens. Baumgarten, with numerous guide-posts.) 
The beautifully wooded Qriisisberg, which the road ascends, is intersect- 
ed with good paths, furnished with finger-posts. The finest points of 
view are the Rappenfluh or Rabenfluh (2844'-, 1 hr.) and the Brandlisberg 
2397'; 20 min. from the Rabenfluh or 1/2 hr. from the Hiiheli direct), 
which overlook the town, the valley of the Aare, and the Stockhorn chain. 
After about 21/4 M. the road divides. The left branch leads to (IV2 M.) 
Qoldiwyl (3155'; Zysset's Inn), which may be reached also by a shorter 
road (3 M.) from Thun, diverging tn the left before the Biichimatt. The 
right branch leads to (2V« M.) Beiligenschwendi (3324 r ), 3/ 4 M. to the S. of 
which is the "ffallenegg (3287'), affording a magnificent view. A victuresque 
way back leads through the Kohleren (see above; descend to the left at 
the guide-post near the bifurcation, mentioned above). 

The handsomest of the villas on the lake is Schadau, the property 
of M. de Rougemont, a modern Gothic building, charmingly situated 
between the left bank of the Aare and the lake, and embellished 
with sculptures in sandstone. On Sundays (lie garden is open to the 
public. — Farther distant, on the right bank, is the chateau of Hiinegg, in 



NIESEN. III. Route 42. 143 

the French Renaissance style. Beautiful view from the terrace. Apply to 
the gardener, who lives on the road, L /t M. nearer Thun. 

Excursions. Thierachern (1867'; Lowe), with fine view, 31. to the 
W. ; 3 M. farther W., Bad Blumenstein and the Fallback; thence through 
wood in l'/2 hr. to the Gurnigel-Bad (see below). Baths of Schwefelberg 
(2V2 hrs. to the W. of Blumenstein, beyond the Gantrist Pass), see p. 191. — 
Burgistein, (269C), a village and castle with fine view, 8 M. to the N.W. of 
Thun. Amsoldingen (Roman tombstones), 3>/2 M. to the S.W., and the 
ancient tower of Strattligen (p. 145), 3'/2 M. to the S. of Thun, a splendid 
point of view. The undulating district between the Stockenthal and Thun 
abounds in beautiful walks and mountain-views. — The Stockhom (from 
Blumenstein or Amsoldingen 4-472 hrs.), see p. 191. 

To the Gubnigel-Bad, from Thun a walk of 372 hrs. (guide desirable), 
or a drive of 4 hrs. (carr. with one horse 25, with two horses 45 fr.); or 
from Bern direct (17 M.; diligence twice daily in 4V2 hrs.; fare 7 fr. 
15 c, coupe' 8 fr. 60 c). The road from Bern leads by Wabern and 
Kehrsatz, and (leaving Belp on the left) follows the W. side of the Giirbe- 
thal, soon affording a fine view of the Bernese Alps, to (7 1 /! M.) Toffen. 
At (1272 M.) Kirchenthurnen (1995') it ascends to the right to the large 
village of Rigguberg (2500'; Sonne), beyond which we follow a road to the 
left to (15 M.) Ruthi and ascend steeply through the Laaswald to the (17 M.) 
Gurnigelbad (3783'), a favourite health-resort, with a spring impregnated 
with lime and sulphur, situated on a broad plateau (500 beds, R. 272-6, 
pens. 6-8 fr.). Extensive wood-walks in the environs: to G/2 hr.) Seftig- 
schwend (Inn); past the Laashofe to the (1 hr.) Ldngnei-Bad ; to the (1 hr.) 
Obere Gurnigel (5070'), an admirable point of view ; to the (l'/2 hr.) Seelibiifil 
(5750'). — Over the Gantrist to Bad Weissenburg (5-6 hrs.), see p. 191. — 
From Wattenwyl, 5 M. to the W. of Thun and 3 M. to the S.W. of stat. 
Uttigen (p. 141), a pleasant path, which cannot be mistaken, ascends to Bad 
Gurnigel in 2>/2 hrs. 

To Saanen through the valley of the Simme, see R. 57. 



42. The Niesen. 

Comp. Map, p. 148. 

Two paths lead to the top : on the N. side from Wimmis a bridle- 
path (the best route) in 4'/2 hrs., and on the E., from the Heustrich-Bad, 
a bridle-path in the same time. The footpath from Frutigen is in so 
bad a condition (entirely destroyed for long tracts) that its use is not re- 
commended. Travellers ascending in the morning should start from Wim- 
mis ; in the afternoon the path from the Heustrich-Bad is better shaded. 

Railway or steamboat from Thun to Spiez , see p. 145 ; thence by 
Spiezwyler to Wimmis 3 1 /* M. (a drive of 40 min. ; post-vehicle thrice 
daily, 85 c; one-horse carr. 4 fr., two-horse 7 fr. ; one-horse carr. from 
Thun 6, two-horse 10 fr.). — To the Heustrich-Bad and Frutigen, see R. 53. 

Horse to the top of the Niesen and back, from Wimmis or Heustrich- 
bad, 15 fr. (starting before 10 a.m.) ; if the start is later, 20 fr. ; to Heustrich 
over the Niesen (or in the reverse direction from Heustrich over the 
Niesen to Wimmis), 22 and 28 fr. — Guide (unnecessary) 10 fr. — Chair- 
porters 12 fr. (four porters are required for one chair). 

From Spiez to ( 3 / 4 M.) Spiezwyler, see p. 179. The road de- 
scends in a wide curve (to the left a direct footpath through wood) 
to the Kanderbriicke, with a fine view of the Bliimlisalp, and thence 
proceeds in a straight direction to (2*/4 M.) — 

■Wimmis (2080'; pop. 1242 ; "Lowe'], a pretty village in a very fer- 
tile district, at the E. base of the Burgfluh (5072'), overlooked by a 
castle which is now occupied by a school and the local authorities. 



144 III. Route 42. NIESEN. 

The church is said to have been founded by King Rudolph II. of Bur- 
gundy in 933, but is mentioned in ancient documents as early as 533. 

Ascent of the Niesen from Wimmis. The path ascends on the S. side 
of the Burgfluh. After 35 min. it crosses the Staldenbach ; 3 min. later, by 
a gate, it turns to the left (finger-post) and ascends in zigzags through 
pastures and wood, passing the chalet on the Bergli. By the (2 hrs.) 
chalets of Unterstalden (4940") the path crosses to the right bank of the 
Staldenbach, and winds up the slopes of the Niesen, past the chalets of 
Oberstalden (5833'). The prospect first reveals itself beyond the (l'/ 4 hr.) 
Staldenegg (6345'), a sharp ridge connecting the Bettfluh (7924') or From- 
berghorn with the Niesen, where the vast snow-fields of the Blumlisalp and 
Doldenhorn become visible. Thence to the top 1 hr. mure. 

From the Heustrich-Bad (p. 179), a good bridle-path ascends the grassy 
slopes behind the baths in windings (whenever it divides , the steeper 
branch must be selected), as far as an ancient lime-tree O/2 hr.); then 
through wood (1 hr.) and over pastures, past the chalets of Schlechten- 
waldegy and the Hegera-Alp (6308'), in numerous windings, to the (2V2-3 
hrs.) Niesen Inn. This route affords beautiful and diversified views ; 
milk at the two upper chalets. 

Weissmdller's Inn, with a small terrace, lies 5 min. below the sum- 
mit (R., L., & A. 4, B. 2fr.). 

The *Niesen (7763'), the conspicuous N. outpost of a branch 
of the Wildstrubel , and like Pilatus regarded as an infallible baro- 
meter (see p. 94), rises in the form of a gently sloping pyramid. 
The rocks at the base are clay-slate, those of the upper part sand- 
stone-conglomerate. On the top there is room for about 50 persons. 
The Alps are seen to greater advantage here than from the Rigi , 
The view vies with that from the Faulhorn ; there the WetteThorner 
form the foreground; here we are close to the beautiful snow- 
clad Blumlisalp at the head of the Kienthal. 

View (comp. the panorama, p. 148). The most conspicuous snow- 
mountains are : to the E. the distant Titlis ; nearer, the Wetterhbrner and 
Schreckhbrner, the Eiger, Monch, Jungfrau, Gletscherhorn, Ebnefluh, Mit- 
taghorn, Grosshorn, Breithorn, and Tschingelhorn ; to the S. the Bliimlis- 
alp with its three peaks (Morgenhorn, Weisse Frau, Bliimlisalphorn), the 
Doldenhorn, Balmhorn, and Altels; to the W., the Wildhorn, appearing 
between two black peaks ; to the left of these the Mont Blanc group ; 
then the Sanetschhorn, the snow-fields of the Diablerets, the Oldenhorn 
and the two peaks of the Dent du Midi , the last snow-group towards 
the W. The entire Lake of Thun is visible, and part of that of Brienz, 
with Interlaken between them. The thickly peopled valleys oftheSimme, 
Engstligenbach, and Kander, and the Kienthal may be traced for a long 
distance. Towards the N. the course of the Aare, and the hill-country 
of Bern , as far as the Jura, complete the prospect. Best light towards 
sunset or in the morning before 10 o'clock. 

43. From Than to Interlaken. Lake of Thun. 

Comp. Map, p. 148. 

a. Thunersee Railway. 
l&^M. Railway in 1-1 i/ 4 hr. (3 f r . 15, 2 fr. 10, 1 fr. 14 c. ; from Bern to 
Interlaken iu 2V4-2'/2 hrs. ; 6 fr. 50, 4 fr. 50, 3 fr. 20 c). — The Lake of 
Thun (1*37'; greatest depth, 709') is 11 M. long, and nearly 2 M. broad. 
The banks are at first studded with villas and gardens, but farther on the 
N. bank becomes precipitous. The Thunersee Railway, opened in July, 1893, 
skirts the S. bank of the lake and commands a series nl picturesque views 
of the lake and the Alps. Railway tickets may be also used for the steam- 
boat journey (comp. p. 145). 



LAKE OF THUN. III. Route 43. 145 

Thun, see p. 141. — J /2 M. Thun-See (formerly Scherzligen), on 
the left bank of the Aare, which here emerges from the lake ; the sta- 
tion is opposite the steamboat-pier (see below). The train skirts the 
W. bank of the lake, with a -view of the Stockhorn chain to the right, 
and the Bernese Alps from the Wetterhorn to the Blumlisalp to the 
left, as far as (3 M.) Owatt (Sch'ifle; Post), where the Simmenthal 
road diverges to the right (p. 190), and then turns towards the S.E. 
Beyond Strattligen, with its old tower (p. 143), we cross the gorge 
of the Kander (p. 191), which here falls into the lake, by a handsome 
bridge (65 yds. long) and ascend gradually to the station of — 

6 M. Spiez (2090'; Rail. Restaur., with R.), situated high above 
the village of that name (p. 146), and enjoying a splendid view of 
the Lake of Thun and its mountains (Ralligstocke. Sigriswyler 
Kothhorn, etc.) ; in the foreground the picturesque village of Spiez 
with its chateau, and to the S.E. and S. the Bernese Alps from the 
Wetterhorn to the Blumlisalp. 

From Spiez to Fruiigen and Kandersteg, see p. 179; to Wirnmis and 
ascent of the Niesen, see p. 143; to the Simmenthal see p. 190. Post and 
Telegraph Of 'ce opposite the station. 

Beyond Spiez, the line again descends, past the village of 
Faulensee (p. 146) ; it then skirts the precipitous slopes of the S. 
bank close to the lake, passing through three tunnels near Krattigen. 
The next stations are Leissig en (Steiribock), pleasantly situated among 
fruit-trees at the foot of the Morgenberghorn (p. 153), and Darligen 
(Pens. Seiler, Scharz, Schwalbenheim). To the left, near the influx 
of the Aare, is the ruin of Weissenau (p. 151). The train skirts 
the new Aare Channel, passes along the foot of the Heimwehfluh 
(p. 150), and reaches the W. station of Jnterlaken (p. 148), in the 
village of Aarmuhle, 1/4 M. from the beginning of the Hoheweg. 

b. Steamboat Journey. 

Steamboat 4-5 times daily in l l /t-1 hrs. from Thun-See (Scherzligen; 
comp. p. 141) to Interlaken; stations Oberhofen, Ounten, Spiez, Mei'ligen, 
Beatenbucht, Leissigen (the last two not always touched at). 

The steamboat starts from the quay near the Freienhof Hotel 
(p. 141), ascends the Aare, stops at the Bellevue, and then at the 
rail, station of Thun-See (see above). To the left, among the trees, 
is the Chartreuse (p. 142); to the right, where the Aare emerges 
from the lake, Schloss Schadau (p. 142). The Stockhorn (7195'), 
with its conical summit, and the pyramidal Niesen (7763') rise 
on the right and left of the entrance to the valleys of the Kander 
and Simme (p. 191). To the left of the Niesen are the glittering 
snow-fields of the Blumlisalp ; on the right, at the head of the K.an- 
derthal, the Frundenhorn, Doldenhorn, Balmhorn, Altels, and 
Rinderhorn gradually become visible (from left to right). In the 
direction of Interlaken appear successively (from right to left) the 
Mittaghorn, Jungfrau, Monch, Eiger in the foreground, and farther 
off the SchTeckhorn and Wetterhorn. 

Baedekek, Switzerland. 15th Edition. 10 



146 III. Route 43. LAKE OF THUN. Bernese 

The steamer skirts the N.E. bank, which is clothed below with 
■villas and gardens and higher up with woods, and passes the pretty 
village of Hilterfingen and the chateau of Hiinegg (p. 142). It 
touches at Oberhofen (Pensions *Moy, *Oberhofen; Restaurant Zim- 
mermann), which has a picturesque chateau of Countess Pourtales, 
and at Gunten ( Weisses Kreuz ; *Pens. du Lac, 5 fr. ; Hirsch ; "Pens. 
Oraber, all on the lake; Pens. Schonberg , on the hill, 10 min. 
from the lake, 5 fr.). In the vicinity (l'/2 M. from the lake) the 
water of the Guntenbach has worn a curious gorge for itself, with 
waterfalls (path and bridges at present much damaged). 

A road ascends from Gunten to ( 3 /4 hr.) Sigriswyl (2620' ; Pent. Bar, 
unpretending), a prettily situated village. The Blume (4577'; fine view) is as- 
cended hence in 2 lira .via Schwanden ; the Sigriiwyl- Grat ( Vorder-Bergli, 5508' ; 
Hlnter-Bergli, t>056') by the Alpiglen Alp in 2 l /2-3 hrs.; the * Sigriswyler Roth- 
horn (6737 1 ), the highest point of the 8igriswyl-Grat, in 4 hrs. (with guide). 
— On the steep slope of the Sigriswyl-Grat towards the Justislhal (.see 
below) is the Schafloch (5840'), a grand ice-cavern, reached from the Obere 
Bergli by a giddy path in 3 /4 hr. (guide, ice-axe, and torches necessary). 

The steamer now crosses the lake at its broadest part, towards 
the S., to Spiez (*Spiezer Bof, with garden and lake-baths, R., L., 
& A. 5-6 fr., Eng. Church Serv. in summer ; *Hot.-Pens. Schonegg, 
3 / 4 M. from the lake, near the rail, station, R. 2-4, B. ll/ 4 , pens. 
7fr. ; Pens. Itten, 3 min. from the station, moderate), a small village 
prettily situated on the S. bank. The picturesque old chateau, which 
formerly belonged to the Erlach family, is now the property of a Berlin 
gentleman, who has restored it and surrounded it with pretty grounds. 
From this point two black peaks are visible for a short time towards 
the E., above the S. bank of the Lake of Brienz; that to the right 
is the Faulhorn, the broader to the left the Schwarzhorn. Above the 
village runs the new Thunersee Railway (p. 145). 

To Aetchi, see p. 179; ascent of the Niesen, p. 144. Diligence to Kander- 
tteg, see p. 179; to Zweisimmen, see p. 190. The diligences start from the 
railway station (p. 145). 

The next station is Faulensee, above which (1 M. ; 3 M. from 
Spiez) is the * 'Faulensee -Bad (R., L., & A. 4, D. 3'/o. pens. 9 fr.), 
with a mineral spring, pleasant grounds and beautiful view. On 
the N. bank we next observe the abrupt Sigriswyl-Grat, with the 
bold Ralligstbcke (6066') and the Sigriswyler Rothhorn (6737'). 
On the lake is Schloss Ralligen. Beyond stat. Merligen (*H6t. 
Beatus, with garden on the lake, pens. 5-6 fr.; Lowe), at the mouth 
of the Justisthid, the steamer proceeds to the (}/ t hr ) Beatenbucht 
(Restaurant), the station for St. Be<denberg. 

Cable Railway to St. Beateniserg, in 16 min. (ascent 2'/ 2 fr., 
descent 1 fr., return-fare 3 fr.). The line, opened in 1889, is 1 M. 
long and has an average gradient of 1 : 3. The station at the top is 
3 min. from the Kurhaus. 

St. Beatenberg. — Hotels. "Kliihaus, at the \V. end of the village, 
near a wood, with 130 beds and 2 dependances', It. 3-5, D. 4V2, 8. 3, 
pens. 8-12 fr. The following are named in their order from W. to E. : 
I'knsion Edelweiss; "Pension Beatkioe, 4'/2-6, iu July and Aug. 5-7 fr. ; 



Oberland. LAKE OF THDN. III. Route 43. 147 

Hot.-Pens. Bldmlisalp ; Pens. Waldrand; 'Hot. -Pens. Schonegg, in the 
middle of the village, 4-6V2, in July and Aug. 4 3 /4-7'/2 fr.; Feuz, village 
inn; "Hot.-Pens. Victobia, 7-9 fr. ; "Hot.-Pens. zor Post, 6-8 fr.; "Hot.- 
Pens. Bellevde, 71/2-9 fr.; Pens. Silbeehokn, 6-7'/2 fr. ; Pens. Balmer; 
on the other side of the Sundgraben: "Hot.-Pens. Alpenrose, 6-8 fr.; Pens. 
Jungfrau; "Hot.-Pens. des Alpes, 3 M. from the Kurhaus, 5-7 fr. — 
English Church. — Good wood-carvings at moderate prices. 

The village of St. Beatenberg (3775'), a favourite health-resort, 
lies in a sheltered situation on both sides of the Sundgraben, which, 
opens towards the Lake of Thun. Admirable view of the Alps, from 
the Schreckhorn to the Niesen, including the Eiger, Monch, Jung- 
frau, Bliimlisalp, Doldenhorn, and Wildstrubel. 

A much finer point of view is the "Amisbuhel (4383' ; Inn at the 
top), 25 min. to the E. of the Hotel Alpenrose (not quite 3 hrs. from In- 
terlaken). Walkers from Interlaken diverge from the road to the right by 
a finger-post, 3 /i M. below Beatenberg, and reach the top thence in l /-i hr. 

Pleasant walk from the Kurhaus to the Waldbrand (25 min.) ; beautiful 
pine-wood and charming views. 

Ascent of the 'G-emmenalphorn (6770'), the highest point of the Giiggis- 
grat, from the Amisbiihel over the Waldegg-AHmend, Leimem, and Gemmen- 
Alp, or from St. Beatenberg through the Rieschenen Valley in 2V2 hrs., not 
difficult (path marked red and white; guide 4 fr., unnecessary). Superb 
view, ranging from Pilatus to the Stockhorn chain and the Diablerets ; 
at our feet lies the Justisthal (p. 146), beyond it are the Aare valley, Bern, 
and the Jura Mts. The Lake of Thun is not visible. — The "Niederhorn 
(6445') and Burgfeldstand (6780'), each 2'/2-3 hrs. from Beatenberg, are 
also fine points of view. On the latter route is the (l'/2 hr.) Kanzli, a 
charming point. By following the arete, all three points may be visited 
in one excursion. 

The Nase, a rocky headland, here projects into the lake. High 
up on the steep bank runs the new road, hewn in the rock at many 
places (see below). On the lake is the chateau of Lerow, near the 
Beatenbach (see below) ; farther on, the ravine of the Sundgraben 
(gee above) and the Neuhaus, at the N.E. end of the lake. On the 
S. bank lies Leissigen (p. 145), then Darligen (p. 145). The steam- 
boat enters the new Aare Channel (to the left, the ruin of Weissenau, 
p. 151) and stops at the landing place of Interlciken-Thunersee, near 
theW. or principal station of Interlaken (p. 148). 

The Road on the K. Bank op the Lake of Thdn (15 M. to Inter- 
laken) leads from Thun by Hilterfingen and Oberhofen to (6 M.) Gunten 
(p. 146); then across the Stampbach (waterfall) and past the old chateau 
of Ralligen to (2'/i M.) Merligen (p. 146), 3/4 M. beyond which, at Beaten- 
bucht (Restaurant), is the station of the cable-railway to St. Beatenberg 
(p. 146). The road ascends round the Nase (see above), passing through 
two rock-tunnels, skirts the precipitous slopes high above the lake, crosses 
the Kruibach- Tobel, and leads through wood (passing the chateau of Lerow, 
below, on the rigut) to the (2 M.) bridge over the Beatenbach. A path ascends 
hence in '/ 4 hr. to the Beatushbhle (2255'), from which the Beatenbach 
dashes forth with a noise like thunder in spring and after heavy rain. 
St. Beatus, the first apostle of Christianity in this region, is said to have 
dwelt in this cavern. 

Three mare tunnels; then a gradual descent. Beautiful view of the 
lake, with the Eiger to the right. Crossing the Sundgraben, we observe 
the houses of Sundlauenen below u9, on the right. Then past the (l'/s M.) 
KiiMbad or St. Bealusbad (Engl. Pension) and the Neuhaus (on the right), 
to Unterseen and (3 M.) Interlaken. 

10* 



148 

44. Interlaken and Environs. 

Comp. Map, p. 162. 

Railway Stations. Thdnersee Railway (p. 145), at the W. end of the 
town; Bernese Oberland Railway (station Interlaken-Oit, pp. 149, 173), 
at the E. end, 1 M. from the first-named. Hotel-omnibuses and other ve- 
hicles at both stations. — Steamboat Piers for the Lake of Thnn on the 
new Aare Channel near the station Interlaken-West (p. 147); for the Lake of 
Brienz opposite the station lnterlaken-Ost, near the H6tel du Lac (see below). 

Hotels and Pensions (omnibus 1 fir.)- On the Hoheweg, from W. to £. : 
•Hot. Metropole (PL 1), R., L., & A. 51/2-61/2, D- 5 fr., pens, from 8 fr.; 
"Victoria (PL 2), with lift, expensive, R.,L.,& A. from 61/2, B. IV2, D. 5, pens. 
8-12 fr.; beyond it the small Pension Voltz (PL 13) , and 'Hot. Horn (PL 30), 
unpretending; Jungfbao (PL 3), R., L., & A. from 4'/2, lunch 3, D. 5 fr. ; 
•Schweizerhof (PL 4), R., L., & A. from 4, D. 4 fr. ; "Belvedere (PL 5), 
R., L., & A. from 4, D. 4 fr. ; "Hot. des Alpes (PL 6), R., L., & A. 4i/ 4 , 
D. 41/2 fr.; "Hotel Beaurivage (PL 9), R., L., &. A. from 4'/*, D. 4i/ 2 fr.; 
•Hot. du Nord (PL 7), R, L., & A. 41/4, B. H/2, D. 4, pens. 7-8 fr. ; Hot. St. 
Georges, R. 2'|2 3 fr., well spoken of; "Hot. Interlaken (PL 8), R., L., & A. 
31/2-4, D. 3>/2, pens. 7-8 fr.; "Hot. du Lac (PI. 10), R., L., <fc A. 4, D. 3 fr. 

To the W. of the Hoheweg, in the direction of the railway-station 
(all second-class): Hot. Oberland (PL 12), R., L., & A. 3, D. 3, pens. 6-7 fr. ; 
opposite to it, Cheval Blanc (PL 26), moderate; Croix Blanche (PL 11), 
R. 11/2-2, D. 3, B. I1/4 fr.; Adler (PL 14); "Hot. Berger (PL 28), R, L., & 
A. 21/2-3, D. 21/2, pens. 5-7 fr.; "Hot.-Pens. Kbebs (PL 27), R. 21/2-3, D. 3 fr. ; 
"Hot.de la Gare (PL 29), the last three near the station; .Schwan, E. 1-2 fr. 

— Near the lower bridge over the Aare : "Bellevce (PL 15), R. and A. 3, 
pens. 572-61/2 fr. — On the small island of Spielmatten : Hot. dd Pont or 
Alte Post (PL 16), with garden, R., L., & A. 4, D. 31/2, pens. 6-8 fr.; 
"Krone. — At Unterseen: "Hot. Unterseen (PL 17), pens. 6 fr. ; "Beau- 
Site (PL 18), pens, from 6 fr. ; Pens. Eiger, on the Neuhaus road, well 
spoken of; "Pension St. Beatds (Mrs. Simpkin), near the Lake of Thun. 

To the S. of the Hoheweg, on the road to the Kleine Rugen: Deut- 
scher Hof (PL 20), 2nd class, R., L., & A. 3'/2-4, B. I1/4, I>. 31/2, pens, from 
6V2 fr.; "Hot. National & Pension Wyder (PL 19), R., L. ifc A. 3i/ 2 , 
D. 31/2, pens. 7-8 fr.; "Hot. -Pens. Reber (PL 21), pens. 6 fr.; 'Hotel- 
Pens. Ober, or 'Schlossir (PI. 23), 6-9 fr. ; "Pens. Schonthal, 5 fr. — 
"Hot. Jungfraublick (PI. 22), on the Kleine Rugen (p. 149), a first-class 
house, commanding a splendid view, with pleasant grounds; R., L., <ft A. 
from 6, B. n/2, D. 5, omnibus IV2 fr. ; pens, in July and August 12-16, 
at other times 10-12 fr. — Hot. -Pens. Mattenhof, prettily situated close 
to the Kleine Rugen, pens. 61/2 fr. ; Pens. Zwahlen, moderate. 

In the Environs of Interlaken good and inexpensive quarters may be 
obtained. At Wilderswyl (p. 154), I1/2 M. to the S. : "Hot. Schonbuhl, in a 
fine lofty situation, pens. 5-6 fr. ; "Bar, pens. 41/2-5 fr. — On the Brienz. 
road, on this side of the church-hill of Goldswyl, C/4 M.) Pens. Felsenegg, 
51/2 fr. — At Bonigen (p. 173) on the S. bank of the Lake of Brienz, I1/2 M. 
to the E. of Interlaken: "Pens. Bellerive, "Hot.-Pens. Bonigen, "Chalet 
do Lac, and "Hot.-Pens. de la Gare (near the steamboat-pier), moderate. 

— At Beatenberg, see p. 146. 

Casino on the Hoheweg, with cafe", reading, concert, and billiard rooma, 
etc. ; music daily 7.30 to 8.30 a.m., and 3.30 to 5 and 8 to 10 p.m. ; whey-cure 
7-8 a.m.; admission 1 fr., per week 4 fr., month 12 fr.; for extra enter- 
tainments higher charges. At the back of the Casino is a whey-cure 
establishment (open 7-8 a. m.). 

Restaurants in the Bitel Mitropole and the Hdtel Victoria. Baieriicht 
Bierbrauerei, with garden, next to Hot. Beaurivage ; Cafi Oberland ; HSt. du 
Pont, on the Aare, with 'Biergarten' and a fine view; Berger and Krebs, by 
the railway-station. — Confectioners : Seilz, Bahnhof-Str. ; Berger, at the 
entrance to the Kurgarten. 

BathB in the Hot. Metropole, Beaurivage, etc. — Money Changers: 
Yolktbank, Ebersold, both Bahnhof-Str. 

Carriage from the station to Interlaken, Untersi:en, and Matten 1 fr. 




MmOmk 





Tv^H!^"™-' 1 ' •H^w.rj,;^*' 



•C- 7JW51 




a;,,,,*,,/,/ /,' V 




firtui-Jfthtl 



Hilt 









Jfi/i. 



nfotAsnql 






TWAr 







^JnfdemS.W $ 



"\JrJtfti< 






' I t^r.tr7uni - 



DarUge 



SBiliiStJ 



■*#*/» itf 



-<3v 















ffP»j«Jt^/ / 



v 5, „ VrrivpiU ./j^ S^ol-M" .1-"' 

lure Fy/ ' ntKanderfrrTtdt > *^~~^ *- t *^^^^^H 













?*i*gg^*.j*i-.Ar*** _ T "*"tr,„ 



K'tralii 












(Ulmngri 



«l • Hirroi. 



5V|»ltmV. -^ 



aqi -- ^ - 






- r ' r < 






~'$k : ^^-~wgr f y 






gnUen-St . 



' JPcakLS*- 



Uc, 



»** 



, JbA j. 

A' SxnnHwn 






S.-lt>p»8. 



i>' 



^Mffls^ ivipito*™^ \ £* ScW*U£ 



,'««d*rW 



■bUt/m JimnAei 






Sirl«l 



'0m^'^^0m^.^i 



W,/7iJt 

■fhJ, 



« -■- -<^ > ■< -ffe>-. *- : *«iMjei»l. Sf\imii»*°^ &,*w/ 



,«•? 3£W 






sZlpiptri 



WtQ 






t i 'AV<s«nk>. 






? _r a ^ J ^ e/7 



'Atku^rn" - **«^ 



=/ 
? 



[uLCT'lr,•, 



^J^ 



ijef&to 






.TieeTvl 

3* 






^^jSUA io»^S^#«\ *j#-3-, x£te ^ a, "%. 













;^i^^iO,000 ^ . Xng ljjh Trait s 



INTERLAKEN. III. Route 44. 149 

each person, to Bonigen, Gsteig, Wilderswyl, and Ringgenberg 2 fr. — 
Donkeys, l'/z fr. per hour. — Post and Telegraph Office adjoining the Ober- 
lander Hof. 

English Church Service in the old Convent Church. Presbyterian Ser- 
vice (Scottish Free Church) in the Sacristy of the Schloss at 11 and 4. 

The low land between the lakes of Thun and Brienz, which are 
2 M. apart, is called the 'BodelV. These lakes probably once formed 
a single sheet of water , but were gradually separated by the de- 
posits of the Liitschine, flowing into the Lake of Brienz, and the 
Lombach, which falls into the Lake of Thun. These accumula- 
tions, first descending from the S., out of the valley of Lauterbrun- 
nen, and then from the N. out of the Habkeren valley, account for 
the curve which the Aare has been compelled to describe. On 
this piece of land, 'between the lakes', lies Interlaken (1863'), con- 
sisting of the villages of Aarmiihle, Matten and Vnterseen, and ex- 
tending nearly as far as the Lake of Brienz (total pop. 5385). 

The principal resort of visitors is the *H6heweg, an avenue of 
fine walnuts , extending from the village of Aarmiihle to the upper 
bridge over the Aare , and flanked with large hotels and tempting 
shops. The central part of the avenue, which is open towards the 
S., commands a beautiful view of the Lauterbrunnen-Thal and the 
Jungfrau (finest by evening light). On the N. side is the Casino, 
with garden, reading-room, etc. (entrance between the Schweizerhof 
and Belvedere ; music, etc., seep. 148). On the S. side, farther on, 
rises the old monastery and nunnery of Interlaken, founded in 1130, 
and suppressed in 1528, surrounded by beautiful walnut-trees. The 
E. wing of the monastery has been used as a hospital since 1836 ; the 
rest of the building, with the Schloss added in 1750, is occupied by 
government-offices. The nunnery has been converted into a prison. 
The choir of the monastery - church is now an English Chapel. 
A small chapel is used by a French Protestant and a Scottish Pres- 
byterian congregation. The nave of the church is a Roman Catholic 
place of worship. To the left, at the upper end of the Hoheweg, the 
road to Brienz crosses the Aare by a handsome new bridge, immed- 
iately above which are the railway-bridge and the station Inter- 
laken-Ost of the Oberland Railways (pp. 148, 154). 

Towards the W. the Hoheweg is continued by the busy street 
which leads through Aarmiihle, and past the Post Office (see above), 
to the railway-station. To the right are three bridges (fine view 
from that in the centre) crossing the island of Spielmatten to the 
small town of TJnterseen (1995 inhab.) , which consists chiefly of 
wooden houses darkened with age, with a large square arid a modern 
church. Large manufactory of parquetry. 

Interlaken is a favourite summer resort, and is noted for its 
mild and equable temperature. The purity of the air, the whey- 
cure, and the beauty of the situation attract many visitors, while 
others make it their headquarters for excursions to the Oberland. 

Walks. The *Kleine Bugen is a beautiful wooded hill to the 



1 50 /IT. Route 44. INTERLAKEN. 



Bernese 



nil 

4fw" 1 



a 

d 
'S 



■3 

<d 

•P-t 

w 

CD 



S. of Interlaken, on the Wilders- 
wyl road. The principal path, 
provided -with benches, ascends 
by the Hotel Jungfraublick in a 
straight direction, leading round 
the hill to the left, and affording 
varied views of the Bodeli and 
the valley of Lauterbrunnen , to 
the 'Humboldtsruhe' (view of the 
Jungfrau and Lake of Brienz). 
In Y2 hr. we reach the Trinkhalle 
(Cafe - - Restaurant), commanding 
the Jungfrau, Monch, andSchwal- 
mern. [A little before the Trink- 
halle a path to the right ascends to 
the Tanzboden (a level spot in the 
wood) and the (20 min.) Rugen- 
hohe (2424Q, a pavilion with a 
view of the Jungfrau and the lakes 
of Thun and Brienz.] Beyond the 
Trinkhalle the main path leads 
to the left, round the hill, pass- 
ing the 'Scheffel Paviliori (with 
a view of the Lake of Thun), 
the Kasthoferstein (see below), 
and the reservoir (fed from the 
Saxetenthal, p. 153), and back to 
the H6tel Jungfraublick (1/2 hr.). 
Other paths, with benches in 
shady nooks and points of view, 
ramify from the main walk in every 
direction. About the beginning 
of the century the hill was planted 
by the chief forester Kasthofer 
with specimens of the principal 
trees of Switzerland. The stone 
above mentioned bears an in- 
scription to his memory . — Just be- 
yond the Trinkhalle a path diver- 
ges to the left, and by a (1 min.) 
bench descends to the right to the 
WagnerenscMucht (see below). 
Another leads straight past the 
bench, skirtingthe wood and keep- 
ing to the left, to the (10 min.) 
Cafe" Unspunnen (p. 151). 

*Heimwehfluh(2218'). From 



Oberland. INTERLAKEN. III. Route 44. 151 

the station , from Aarmuhle, and from Matten, roads lead to the 
(Y2 M.) entrance to the Wagrierenschlucht, to the W. of the Kleine 
Rugen. We ascend the ravine for about 300 paces, and, at a 
block of rock with an inscription in honour of Bernh. Studer (d. 
1887), diverge by a path to the right, which ascends rapidly, pass- 
ing a fine point of view on the right, in 20 min. to the Restaurant. 
The terrace commands a charming view (finest in the afternoon) of 
the Bodeli and the lakes of Thun and Brienz ; and the Jungfrau, 
Monch , and Eiger are visible from the small belvedere. — Path 
from the Trinkhalle, see above. 

The ruin of *Unspunnen (40 min.), with a splendid view of 
the Lauterbrunnen valley, the Jungfrau , the Monch, and the Lake 
of Brienz, is reached through the Wagnerenschlucht (at the end of 
which, on the left, is the *Cafe Unspunnen, with beautiful view), 
or by the Kleine Rugen (see p. 150). 

The ruined castle of Weissenau (2 M.) on an island in the Aare near 
ts influx into the Lake of Thun (p. 147), is reached by the old road 
from Matten, or by the road from TJnterseen to Thun. 

To the Hohbiihl (2070'; V* nT )i on tne rig 11 ' bank of tne Aare, a path, 
lately restored and provided with finger posts, ascends to the left immed- 
iately beyond the upper bridge over the Aare. (The lower path to the 
left leads to the Vogtsruhe on the Aare, a resting-place and spring.) The 
pavilion commands a fine view, which is more extensive from the grassy 
slopes of the Untere and Obere Bleicki, a few hundred paces higher. 
From here a narrow path, called the Greierz-Leiter, descends direct to 
the Lnstbiihl (see below). Or we may return to the Hohbiihl and 
descend thence by steps to the Vogtsruhe, skirt the right bank, pass 
a rifle-ground, and reach the narrow and stony plain of Goldei, between 
the Harder and the Aare, at the base of the Falkenfluh, the upper 
part of which, seen from the proper point of view, resembles an old 
man's face (the Hardermannli). On a rocky hill below the Falkenfluh is 
the IiUstbiihl, a pavilion commanding another fine view. We may now 
return to Interlaken by the bridge behind the Casino (in all, l'/2-2 hrs.). 
— The Harder may be ascended by a picturesque and safe route (practi- 
cable for riding) which diverges to the right, from the Habkern road, 
1 M. to the N.W. of Unterseen, before the road to Beatenberg. We as- 
cend at first through wood (path steep at places) to (2 hrs.) the Harder- 
made (3988'), which commands a magnificent view of Interlaken and the 
Bernese Alps. Thence we descend, passing above the Hardermannli (see 
above), to the Untere Bleicki and the (1 hr.) Obere Aarebriicke at the E. 
end of Interlaken (see above). The beaten path should not be quitted 
without a guide, as accidents have occurred owing to the precipitous 
character of the mountain. — The Thurmberg, ascended in V2 hr. from 
Goldswyl, beyond Felsenegg on the Brienz road (p. 173), overlooks the 
Lake of Brienz and the small, sombre Faulensee or lake of Goldswyl. — 
A walk may be taken by the same road to (3 M.) Ringgenberg , with a 
picturesque church built among the ruins of the castle (view) , and to 
the Schadburg (238S'; IV2 M. farther), on a spur of the Graggen, an un- 
finished castle of the ancient barons of Ringgenberg, a still finer point. 

Longer Excursions (comp. the Map, p. 162). To St. Beatbn- 
bbrg, by railway and steamer to (40-50 min.) Station Beateribucht 
(p. 146), and thence by cable-train in 12 min. — The direct road 
from Interlaken to St. Beatenberg (7'/2 M. ; carr. with one horse 
13, with two horses 24 fr. ; to the Kurhaus 14 and 25 fr.) di- 
verges, 1 M. from Interlaken , to the left from the road into the 



152 ///. Route 44. SCHYNIGE PLATTE. Bernese 

Habkernthal (p. 153), crosses the Lombach, and ascends through 
wood in windings (avoidable by short-cuts). 

From Interlaken to the *Oiessbach on the Lake of Brienz (p. 173) 
a steamer plies four times daily in summer (comp. p. 172). Bbmgen 
(1^2 M.), Osteig (i 3 /i M.), with a fine view from the churchyard, 
and Osteigwyler (2 l /% M.), with the 'Hohe Steg' over the Liitschine, 
also afford pleasant walks from Interlaken. 

The *Schynige Platte ("6463') is one of the finest points of view 
in the Bernese Oberland. Rack- and -Pinion Railway (opened in 
July, 1893) from station Wilderswyl-Gsteig (j>. 154; Oberland Rail- 
way from Interlaken-Ost in 9 min. ; on foot 35 min.) in iy t hr. ; 
fare up 8fr. , down 4 fr. , return-ticket 10 fr. The line (4 1 /* M. in 
length ; maximum gradient 1 : 4) crosses the Liitschine beyond Osteig 
(1870') and ascends through meadows to the (l 1 4 M.) Fuchsegg, 
where it bends back by means of the Rothenegg Tunnel (175 yds. in 
length). Passing through a rocky gate, it then enters the wood of 
beeches and pines which covers the slopes of the Schynige Platte, 
affording pretty glimpses to the left of Interlaken , the Lake of 
Brienz, etc. At the Lower Breitlauenen-Alp it emerges from the 
wood and reaches (3 M.) stat. Breitlauenen (5068' ; Kurhaus & Pens.), 
with fine view of the lakes of Brienz and Thun and the hilly country 
towards the N.W. Describing a wide curve, it then ascends to the 
mountain-crest and passes through the Griitli Tunnel (164 yds.) to 
the S. side of the ridge, where a striking scene suddenly opens. The 
Lauterbrunnen valley lies at our feet , its dizzy abysses descending 
almost directly to the Liitschine, and to the left towers the majestic 
Jungfrau. Following the S. slope of the crest, we arrive at the 
(4'/ 2 M.) stat. Schynige Platte (6463'), overlooking the Grindelwald 
valley with the Srhreckhbrner and Wetterhorner. A level path leads 
from the station along the Platte, an inclined slope of crumbling 
and 'shining' slate rock, in a few paces to the Hotel Alpenrose (R., 
L., & A. 4V 2 , B. 2, D. 4 ft.). 

In order to enjoy a complete panorama, we skirt the left side of the 
precipitous Qummihorn (6893 1 ; recently made accessible for experts) to the 
N.W. of the hotel, and ascend the (20 min.) "Daube (6772'), whence the 
survey of the lakes towards the N. is particularly fine. To the S. we 
enjoy a magnificent view of the Bernese Alps: from left to right, the 
Wellhorn, Wetterhorner, Berglistock, Upper Grindelwald Glacier, Schreck- 
horner, Lauteraarhorner, Lower Grindelwald Glacier, the Finsteraarhorn 
peeping over the Eigergrat, the Fiescherhorner, Eiger, Mbnch, Jungfrau, 
Ebnefluh, Mittaghorn, Grosshorn. Breithorn, Tschingelhorn, Tschingelgrat, 
Gspaltenhorn, Weisse Frau, Doldenhorn, and numerous nearer peaks; far 
below is the Staubbach in the valley of Lauterbrunnen. Towards evening 
the lakes of Neuchatel and Bienne are seen glittering in the distance; and 
far to the N.E. Pilatus appears. — Descent from the Platte by (Jundlischwand 
to Zweililtscliinen, 2 l /2-3 hrs., steep at places. At the small pond near the 
Platte to the right we descend across meadows to the ( 3 /< hr.) lower chalets 
of the Iselten-Alp (5116'; guide advisable to this point, 2 fr.) ; thence through 
wood, no mistake being possible farther on. 

Footpath fbom Gsteig to the Schynige Platte (3>/2 hrs.). We may 
either cross the bridge by the church of Gsteig and follow the mad to the 
right to (»/< 31.) Qtteigicyltr ; in the middle of the village take the bridle- 



Oberland. ABENDBERG. 212. Route 44. 153 

path to the left, and very soon to the left again; after 17 min. ascend to 
the right, through wood; or, shorter, we may ascend from Gsteig to the 
left, by a path between the church and the inn, turning to the right where 
the path divides, and in 20 min. reach the bridle-path at the point where 
it enters the wood. We now ascend by numerous z'gzags, crossing the 
railway twice , to the (IV2 hr.) Schonegg (4754') and the (74 hr.) Kurhaus 
Breitlauenen (p. 152). We then cross the (50 min.) mountain-crest near its 
W. extremity and follow the S. slope to the (35 min.) Alpenrose Inn (p. 152). 
From the Schynige Platte to the Faulhorn (4-4'/2 hrs. ; horse 
20 fr., guide unnecessary 8 fr.). The bridle-path (lately improved), com- 
manding splendid views, leads to the Isellen-Alp and on the S. slopes of 
the Laucherhorn (8333') to the (1 hr.) ridge bounding the Sagisthal on the 
S. We then descend slightly to the ( 3 /t hr.) Sagisthal-See, with its chalet 
(6258 1 ), skirt its N. and E. banks, and ascend to the ridge between the 
Schwabhorn and the Faulhorn. The top of the latter, 2445 above the lake, 
is gained in 2 hrs. more (see p. 163). — From Interlaken via the Schynige 
Platte, Faulhorn, Great Scheidegg, and Rosenlaui to Meiringen ,or Imhof 
in two days, horse 50, guide and porter 25 fr. 

The Habkern.th.al, between the Harder and St. Beatenberg, may 
also be explored. Road to the village of (6 M.) Habkern (3500 ; 
Inn); one-horse carr. there and back 15 fr. 

Three fine points of view may be visited hence. The 'Gemmenalp- 
horn (6773') is reached by crossing the Brdndlisegg, or by following the 
Biihlbach, in4hrs. (or better from the Amisbuhel, p. 147). The Hohgant 
(7215') is ascended in 4 hrs. via, Bohl (5902') and the Hagletsch-Alp, or by 
the Alp Bbsdlgdu and through the Karrholen. To the S.W. of the Hoh- 
gant is the Griinenberg (5095'), over which a pass leads from Habiern, to 
Schangnau in the Emmenthal (6 hrs.). The Augstmatthorn (Suggithtirm, 
6844' ; 3>/2 hrs.) is ascended via, the Bodmi-Alp. 

The *Abendberg is reached from Interlaken by a bridle-path in 
H/2-2 hrs. (horse 8, mule 6 fr.), turning to the right in the "Wag- 
nerenschlucht (p. 151), and passing mostly through wood. The 
*H6tel Bellevue (3737' ; pens. 572-7 fr.) commands a splendid view 
of the valley of Lauterbrunnen (Jungfrau, Monch, Eiger, Schreck- 
horn) and of the Lake of Brienz. A well-trodden path leads from 
the last hut above the hotel to the right, across grass, to (20 min.) 
a tall dead fir-tree, known as the Siebenuhrtanne (2125'), whence 
there is a charming *View of the Lake of Thun, lying far below. 

A foot-path leads past the different peaks of the Ahendberg to the 
(3 hrs.) Rothenegg (6230'; shortest way from the hotel, 2 hrs.) The next 
peaks of the range are the Fachsegg (6346'), the Grosse Schiffli (6374'), the 
Kleine Schiffli (6585'). and finally the Morgenberghom (7383'). The last is 
very difficult from this side (better from Saxeten, by the Tanzbodeli Pass, 
see p. 1£0). A footpath leads from the Hotel Bellevue to Saxeten in 1 hr. 
(the upper path to the right in the meadow, behind the second chalet). 

The Saxetenthal, between the Abendberg and the Bellenhochst 
(6870 r ), is reached by a pleasant bridle-path (mule 7 fr.) to Mulinen 
and the (7 M.) village of Saxeten (3600'; Kreuz). About 1 V 4 M. 
higher up are the falls of the Gilrben and Weissbach, and the valley 
is picturesquely closed by the Schwalmem (9137'). 

The Sulegg (7915'; 3'/2-4 hrs.), an excellent point of view, is ascended 
from Saxeten. We ascend by the (35 min ) Giirbenfall to the Untere 
Nesslern-Alp (4805'), cross the Giirbenbach to the left, and several other 
brooks descending from the Sulegg. Beyond the (l'A hr ) Bellen-Alp (6205'), 
we turn to the right between the Bellenhochst (6870') and the Sulegg, skirt 
the E. slope of the latter, nearly as far as the Svlsalp, for 3 /\ hr., and 



\hi III. Route 45. ZWEILUTSCHINEN. Bernese 

reach the top in 1 hr. more. The ascent is easier from Isenfluh (see below), 
via the Oummenalp and Sultalp (3'/2 hrs. ; guide 10 fr.). — From Saxeten 
over the Tannbodeli Pass and through the Suldthal to (6 hrs.) Aeschi, 
see p. 180 (interesting; guide not indispensable). 

Interlaken may also be made the traveller's headquarters for 
many of the following excursions. 

45. From Interlaken to Lanterbrunnen. Stanbbach. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 148, 164. 

8 M. Railway from Interlaken- Ost (p. 14K) in 42 min., fares 3 fr. 25, 
1 fr. 95 c, return 5 fr. 20, 3 fr. 15 c. ; circular tour from Interlaken to 
Lanterbrunnen and Grindelvvald and back to Interlaken, 7 fr. 50, 4fr. 50 c.; 
from Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen, Zweilutschinen, and Grindelwald, and 
back to Interlaken, 10 fr., 6 fr. — The Bernese Oberland Railwats 
from Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald, opened in 1890, are 
on the adhesive system (maximum gradient 35 : 1000), with short sections 
on the rack-and-pinion system (maximum gradient 120:1000). — Carriage 
from Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen (in fine weather preferable to the rail- 
way) and back, including 2 hrs. stav, with one horse 9, two horses 15 fr.; 
to Triimmelbach 12 and 22, to Stechelberg 14 and 27 fr. 

At the Interlaken- O st station (1865'; p. 148; change carriages) 
the line diverges to the right from the line to Bonigen and describes 
a wide curve through the fertile plain of Interlaken to (172 M.) 
Wilderswyl-Qsteig (1925'). To the right is the village of Wilderswyl 
(p. 148) at the foot of the Abendberg (p. 153); to the left is the 
church of Osteig (Steinbock Inn; railway to the Schynige Platte, 
see p. 152). The valley contracts ; the railway crosses the Liitschine 
and ascends, at times through wood, on the E. side of the valley. 
Below, to the right, is the Liitschine, and beyond it the high road. 
To the right rises the precipitous Rothenfluh, overtopped by the 
Sulegg; in the foreground, to the left, are the Hunnenfluh and the 
Mannlichen, with the Miinch and the Jungfrau adjacent. The rail- 
way next crosses the Black Liitschine, which descends from Grindel- 
wald, near its union with the White Liitschine, to (5 M.) Zwei- 
lutschinen (2150'; Bar), junction for the railway to Grindelwald 
(p. 160; change carriages for Lauterbrunnen). To the left, in the 
background of the Lutschenthal, rises the finely-shaped Wetterhorn. 

Interesting excursion to (l'/« hr.) Isenfluh (3600'; 'Pens. Isenfluh, 5 fr.). 
About 1 /t M. from Zweilutschinen the bridle-path diverges to the right 
from the Lauterbrunnen road and ascends the steep W. slope of the valley 
(shade after 3 p.m.; a second path ascends by the Sausbach opposite the 
Hunnenfluh, see above ; a third ascends from Lauterbrunnen, opposite the 
Hotel Steinbock). Isenfluh commands a splendid "View of the Jung- 
frau. A still finer view is obtained from the path from Isenfldh to Murren 
(3'/« hrs.; guide desirable for novices; from Zweilutschinen to Miirren 
7 fr.). At the upper end of the village ('/« hr.) this path turns to the left 
and ascends to the ( 3 /t hr.) Savsbach (5050 1 ), and then more steeply for 
25 min. to the Flbschwaldweid (5603'). Here we turn to the left and proceed 
to the chalets of Alpligen (5792'), where we descend. The path, which com- 
mands a fine view of the Jungfrau and its neighbours, next traverses the 
Pletschen-Alps, crosses the Plettchbach and the fipissbach, and reaches (li/«hr.) 
the station of Griitsch-Alp and (35 min.) Miirren (p. 156). — Ascent of the 
Sulegg (7915'), 3'/2 hra., see above. 



Oberland. LAUTERBRUNNEN. HI. Route 45. 155 

The *Valley of Lauterbrunnen begins at the Hunnenfluh , a 
rook resembling a gigantic round tower, and is bounded by precipi- 
tous limestone rocks, 1000-1500' in height. It derives its name 
(lauter Brunnen, 'nothing but springs') from the numerous streams 
which descend from the rocks, or from the springs which rise at 
their bases in summer. The railway crosses to the left bank of the 
White Liitschine and ascends its wooded valley, close to the high 
road, crossing the Sausbach, by means of two rack-and-pinion sec- 
tions (984 and 550 yds. long) to — 

8 M. Lauterbrunnen. — Hotels: "Steinbock, near the station, R., 
L., & A. 3V;j-4, B. l'/2, D. 3i/ 2 -4 fr. ; * H6tel Staubbach, with view of the 
Staubbach, R., L., & A. 3-4, D. 4 fr. ; "BCtel- Pension Triimmelbach (see 
below), R. 3, lunch 3, D. 4, pens. 7 fr. — Guides : Christ., Joh., Ulrich, 
and Peter Lanener, Heinr. and Fritz v. Almen, Fritz Graf, father and son, 
Friedr. Fucht, Ulrich Brwmer, etc. — Carved wood good and cheap here. 

Lauterbrunnen (2615'), a pretty, scattered village, lies on both 
banks of the Liitschine, in a rocky valley '/ 2 M. broad, into which in 
July the sun's rays do not penetrate before 7 a.m., and in winter 
not till noon. The snow-mountain to the left, rising above the lower 
mountains, is the Jungfrau; to the right is the Breithorn. 

From the rocky heights in the environs are precipitated some 
twenty brooks, the best known of which is the *Staubbach ('dust- 
brook'), 5 min. to the S. of the Hotel Staubbach. This brook, which 
is never of great volume , and in dry summers is disappointing, 
descends from a projecting rock in a single fall of 980', the greater 
part of it, before it reaches the ground, being converted into spray, 
which bedews the meadows and trees far and near. In the morning, 
in sunshine, it resembles a transparent, silvery veil, wafted to and 
fro by the breeze, and frequently tinted with rainbow hues. By 
moonlight also it presents a beautiful appearance. The best point 
of view is in a meadow in front of the fall, to the left of a seat in- 
dicated by a flag (20 c). 

Even finer than the Staubbach is the *Triimmelbach Fall 
(i x jl hr.'s walk, there and back; one-horse carr., incl. stay, 4 fr.). 
We follow the Stechelberg road (p. 159) on the right bank of the 
Liitschine for i.i/ 2 M. to the charmingly situated *H6tel- Pension 
Triimmelbach (see above), and diverge to the left, to the (7 min.) 
entrance of a narrow gorge (rendered accessible by steps and railings 
on both sides ; adm. 50 c), where the copious Triimmelbach, fed 
by the glaciers of the Jungfrau, is precipitatad into a round water- 
worn cauldron. During sunshine three rainbows are formed in the 
spray, one above, another opposite, and the third below the spectator, 
a beautiful scene. In 1890, two higher points of the imposing 
Triimmelbach gorge were also made accessible (steps and rails), and 
deserve a visit. 

ThTough the Triimleten-Thal to the Wengem-Alp (p. 161), 3 hrs., with 
guide, somewhat trying but highly interesting. — To the Roththal- Hut . 
see p. 160. 



156 

46. Upper Valley of Lauterbrunnen. Murren. Fall 
of the Schmadribach. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 148, 164. 

Railway (cab)e and electric railway, opened in 1891) from Lauter- 
brunnen to Miirren in 55 min. (fares 3 fr. 75 c, there and back 6 fr.). — 
Distance on foot: from Lauterbrunnen to Miirren 2>/2, Trachsellauenen 2, 
the Schmadri Fall and b;ick 2 (from Miirren over the Upper Steinberg to 
Trachsellauenen 4Vs hrs.), Lauterbrunnen 2'/2 hrs. — The excursion from 
Lauterbrunnen to 'Miirren and thence into the upper Lauterbrunnen Valley 
(Schmadrifall, Upper Steinberg Alp) is strongly recommended (easily accom- 
plished in a day by using the railway as far as Miirren.). The views from 
Miirren and the Upper Steinberg are among the grandest in Switzerland. 

The station of the Cable Railway is 2 min. from the station of 
the Bernese Oberland Railway (p. 155), above the road. The railway 
mounts straight uphill (maximum gradient 60 : 100) through mead- 
ows and wood to the upper terminus on the Griitsch Alp (4976'). 
Here we change carriages for the electric railway, which continues to 
follow the slope, high up, crossing the Pletschbach or Staubbach 
and then the Spissbach and Murrenbach to (2 J /2 M.) Miirren. To 
the left, a magnificent *View of an amphitheatre of mountains and 
glaciers unfolds : the Eiger and the Monch, the Jungfrau with its 
dazzling Schneehorn and Silberhorn , the huge precipices of the 
Schwarze Monch rising abruptly from the valley, the wall of the 
Ebne-Fluh with its conical peak to the left and its mantle of spot- 
less snow, the Mittaghorn, the Grosshorn, the Breithorn (from which 
the Schmadribach descends), the Tschingelhorn, the Tschingelgrat, 
and the Gspaltenhorn. This prospect is far grander than that from 
the Wengernalp , although the view thence of the Jungfrau itself 
isunrivalled. 

The Bridle-path from Lauterbrunnen to Murren, 2i/i hrs., which is 
very muddy after rain, ascends rapidly to the right about 200 paces from 
the Steinbock Hotel, trends to the right, and crosses the Qreifenbach twice. 
Beyond the second bridge (20 min.) it ascends through wood, crosses the 
Fluhbachli, the (20 min.) Lauibach (fine waterfall), and the Herrenbachli, 
and reaches (25 min.) the bridge over the scanty Pletschbach or Staubbach 
(4037' ; Efmts.). In 5 min. more, where the wood has been much thinned, 
we obtain a beautiful view of the Jungfrau, Monch, and Eiger, which 
remain in sight for the rest of the way. Farther up, by (V2 hr.) a saw- 
mill (4923'), we cross two branches of the Spissbach, in 25 min. more 
reach the top of the hill (view see above) and then walk alongside the 
railway to O/2 hr.) Miirren. 

Miirren (5350'; *Orand Hot. $ Kurhaus Murren, 4 min. from 
the station, R., L., & A. 5-8, B. l l /->, lunch 3, D. 5, pens, in July 
and Aug. 10-15, at other times 8-13 fr. ; *Gr. Hot. des Alpes, similar 
charges; *H6t. Jungfrau, R., L., & A. 3, pens. 8 fr. ; Hot. Eiger, 
pens. 8 fr., well spoken of; Engl. Ch. Serv.) is a magnificently 
situated mountain village, much frequented as a summer-resort. 
The Wetterhorn becomes visible to the left, and the Seflnen-Furgge 
to the extreme right (p. 159). 

A more extensive view is obtained from the Allmendhubel (6358'; 8 /« 
hr.), a height to the W., above the village, and from the Obere Winteregg 
(5738'), '/2 nr - t0 the N.W. The path to the latter diverges to the left from 
the Lauterbrunnen path about 10 min. from the Hutel Murren (finger-post). 



GIMMELWALD. ///. Route 46. 157 



The best point of view is by the upper 
chalet (to the right). Nothing is gained 
by ascending the hill to the left. 

The ^Schilthorn (9747'; 3'/ 2 -4 hrs., 
guide* 8 fr.) is an admirable point 
of view. The path ascends pastures 
to the chalets of AHmend (on the right 
is the Allmendhubel, see above), and 
farther up enters the dreary Engethal, 
which ends in a rocky basin at the 
foot of the Schilthorn (to this point, 
2'/2 hrs. from Miirren, riding is prac- 
ticable; horse 12 fr.). Then a steep 
ascent over snow, loose stones, and 
rock, past the monument to Mrs. 
Arbuthnot, who was killed here by 
lightning in 1865, to the arete be- 
tween the Kleine and Orosse Schilt- 
horn, and without difficulty to the 
(1 hr.) flattened summit. Magnificent 
survey of the Jungfrau, the queen of 
the Bernese Alps , and of the whole 
chain (including the Bliimlisalp, to 
the S.W., quite near), and of N. 
Switzerland (the Rigi, Pilatus, etc.) ; 
Panorama by Imfeld. Mont Blanc is 
not visible hence, but is seen from 
the arete, about 250 yds. to the W., a 
little below the summit. — The de- 
scent through the imposing Sefinenthal 
(see below), by the Sefinenalp and the 
Teufelsoriicke (a fine point above 
Gimmelwald), is longer by l'/2 hr. 
than the direct path, but far more 
interesting (unsuitable for ladies). A 
shorter way back leads past the Graue 
Seeli and down the steep Schillfluhe 
(guide advisable), and afterwards 
through the beautiful pastures of 
the Schillalp , with views of the 
Jungfrau, etc. — Another route (in- 
teresting ; guide advisable) crosses 
the Rolhe Herd and the Telli (a saddle 
between the Grosse Hundshorn and 
the Wild-Andrist) to the DUrrenberg 
Chalets in the Kienthal (see p. 159). 

From Miirren the path des- 
cends to the left; 10 min., we 
cross the Milrrenbaeh ; 25 min., 
Gimmelwald (4545' ; Hot-Pens, 
Schilthorn, pens. 5-6 fr., Engl. 
Church Service in summer), on 
the brink of the grand Sefinenthal, 
which is enclosed by the Biitt- 
lassen, the Gspaltenhorn, and the 
Tschingelgrat. 

To the Sefinenthal, an interest- 
ing walk (as far as the Gspaltenhorn 
Glacier and back 3 hrs.; guide unnec- 




158 III. Route 46. TRACHSELLAUENEN. Berne** 

essary). To the W. of the Pension Schilthorn we cross the (5 min.) 
Schillbach, and ascend by a beautiful path on the left side of the Sefinen- 
thal (with the superb Jungfrau behind us)j then ( 3 /4 hr.) cross a bridge 
and enter a pine-wood, and lastly, in a grand basin, with numerous water- 
falls, traverse stony de'bris to the ( 3 /4 hr.) Gspallenhorn (or Kirclmpalt) 
Glacier, at the foot of the Gspaltenhorn. Back by the same route. 

We next (^4 hr.) cross the Sefinen-Liitschine , and ascend for 
3 min., then descend. In 10 min. more we pass the fine*Fall of the 
Seflnen - Liitschine on the left. Beyond a brook descending from 
the right , 2 min. farther on , the path divides : the branch to the 
left descends steeply to (^hr.) Stechelberg (see below); that to the 
right (finger-post) leads to (50 min.) Trachsellauenen (4145'; Hot. 
Schmadribach, R., L., & A. 2 1 / , 2i B. l 1 ^) pens. 5 fr.), a picturesque 
cluster of chalets on the left bank of the Weisse Liitschine. The path 
(several finger-posts), still following the left bank, ascends, first to 
the right and then to the left, round the projecting rocks of the Nadla 
(from the top, a view of the waterfall) and past the chalets of the 
(Y2 hr.) Lower Steinberg Alp (4480'), where it crosses (to the left) 
the Thalbach (two bridges). Ascending the pastures on the right 
bank, we pass a waterfall, mount the Holdri, and reach C/2 hr.) the 
Lager Chalet, in sight of the grand *Schmadribach Fall. The stream 
must be crossed higher up by those who desire a nearer view, but 
this takes another hour, and hardly repays the loss of time. — From 
the Upper Steinberg Alp (5795') , which is seen high up on the 
pastures to the right (ascent 1 '/ 2 hr. from Trachsellauenen ; guide 
not indispensable), the * View is far more imposing ; the Tschingel 
Glacier lies close to us on the right, and we also obtain a good survey 
of the Schmadri Fall. On the Alp is the small Tschingel Hotel (well 
spoken of), and 20 min. farther up the * Hotel Ober- Steinberg (un- 
pretending; pens, from 5 fr.). 

A pleasant walk (boy as guide 17z-2 fr.) may be taken from the Upper 
Steinberg along the Tichingel Glacier, and via the Oberhomalp to the (l 1 /* hr.) 
•Oberhornsee (6822'), a beautiful blue little lake, magnificently situated 
in the rocky hollow between the Tschingel and Breithorn glaciers. 

From Mueeen to the Uppee Steinberg, direct (3 hrs.; guide 7 fr.). 
At the point where the path to Stechelberg diverges from the road to 
Trachsellauenen (1 hr. from Miirren, see above) we diverge to the right, 
and in 20 min. again turn to the right. Passing (20 min.) a deserted shaft, 
we ascend to the right in zigzags (past a good spring) to (25 min.) a cattle- 
shed, and cross a precipitous gorge. The enclosure opposite marks the 
beginning of the Obere Steinberg-Alp. In 40 min. more we reach the Inn 
(see above), and enjoy a superb view. Descent across pastures and through 
wood (Wilde Eck); then tUrough a narrow ravine, stony and steep, and 
under two timber-slides, to (1 hr.) the chalets of Unter- Steinberg. 

From Trachsellauenen to Lauterbrunnen, '2 hours. At (25 min.) 
Sichellauenen we cross the Liitschine, which dashes wildly down its 
rocky bed, and follow the lower road running close by the stream. 
At the (V« hr.) Bridge of Stechelberg (3025' ; Von Allmen's Inn, pens. 
5 fr.) we reach the bottom of the valley and the carriage-road. Near 
(3/ 4 M.) Matten, a fall of the Murrenbach to the left. At the p/ 4 M.) 
Dornige Briicke we keep to the right. We pass O/2M.) a waterfall 
of the Rosenbach, and in i/ 2 M. more the picturesquely situated 



Oberland. TSCHINGEL PASS ///. Route 46. 159 

*H6t.-Pens. Trummelbaeh (at>out l / t M. to tlie right, the Fall of the 
Trummelbach, see p. 155). — Then (l^M.) Lauterbrunnen (p. 155). 

Passes (comp. Map, p. 180). From Lauterbeunnen over the Sefinen- 
Furgge to the Kienthai,, not difficult, and on the whole attractive 
(10-11 hrs. to Reichenbach ; guide 26 fr.). From (2'Aj hrs.) Miirren (p. 156) 
the path ascends via the Alp Boganggen to the (3 hrs.) Seflnen - Furgge 
(8583'), between the Grosse Hundshorn (9620') and the Bultlassen (10,490'; 
p. 180). (The path by Gimmelwald and through the Sefinenthal is easier, but 
1 hr. longer.) Descent (fine view of the Wilde Frau and Bliimlisalp) past 
the chalets of Durrenberg (6545'), and of Steinenberg (4856' ; night-quarters) 
to the huts of Gorneren, by the Bdrenpfad to the (2 hrs.) Tschingel-Alp 
(3783'j and down the Kienthal to (2'/2 hrs.) Reichenbach (p. 180). — From the 
Steinenberg-Alp over the GamchilUcke to the Tschingelfim, see p. 180. 

Feom Lauterbrunnen to Kandersteg over the Sefinen-Furgge and 
the Hohthoeli , a long and fatiguing walk (14 hrs. ; guide necessary, 
30 fr.). The night may, if necessary, be passed at the Durrenberg chalets 
or in the Frauenbalm Hut. Over the Sefnen-Furgge to the Kienthal, see 
above. Before the path reaches the Steinenberg-Alp we descend to the 
left, cross the Pochtenbach (the discharge of the Gamchi Glacier, p. 180), 
ascend to the Lower and Upper Bundalp, and traverse pastures, stony 
slopes, and snow to (4'/2 hrs. from the Furgge) the Hohthiirli or Diinden 
Pass (8875'), a depression of the Oeschinengral between the Schwarzhorn 
(9150') and the Wilde Frau (10,693'), affording a superb view of the Bliimlis- 
alp, Doldenhorn, etc. (To the left of the pass is the Frauenbalm Club Hut, 
p. 181.) We now descend over loose stones and the rocky ledges of the 
Schafberg (with the Bliimlisalp Glacier quite near us on the left) to the 
Upper Oeschinen-Alp (6470'), and by steep steps cut in the rock, to the Lower 
Oeschinen-Alp, pass round the N.W. side of the Oeschinen- See (5223'), and 
reach (4 hrs.) Kandersteg (p. 180). 

'From Lauterbrunnen to Kandeesteg ovee the Tschingel Pass 
(14 hrs.; 6-7 hrs. on snow and ice ; guide 30, porter 25 fr.), a grand route, 
fatiguing, but for tolerable mountaineers free from difficulty. A night had 
better be spent at (2 hrs.) Trachsellauenen or on the Upper Steinberg (see 
p. 158). We now follow the W. slope of the valley to the (% hr.) Lower 
Tschingel Glacier, cross it, and toil up the left lateral moraine to the 
O/2 hr.) base of the W. rocks , the ascent of which is very steep at first; 
a nearly perpendicular part, called the Tschingeltritt, is about 13' high. 
Farther up (40 min.) we come to turf (pleasanter ; a halt usually made 
here ; superb view). Then again across debris in '/a nr - to tbe upper 
Tschingelfim, an immense expanse of snow ; for 20 min. we follow the left 
moraine, and then take to the glacier, where the rope becomes necessary. 
A gradual ascent of l 3 /4 hr. brings us to the top of the Tschingel Pass 
(9267'), where a view of the mountains of the Gasternthal is disclosed; 
behind us towers the most majestic Jungfrau with her S. neighbours, and to 
the left is the Eiger. On the right are the furrowed Gspaltenhorn (p. 180) 
and the GamchilUcke (9295' ; pass to the Kienthal, p. 180). An additional 
hour may be devoted to visiting the latter, which affords a striking survey 
of the Kienthal, the Niesen, and the Bernese plain. To the left of the 
Tschingel Pass rises the Mutthom (9978'). The descent across the snow 
is easy. (The W. arm of the glacier, bounded on the right by the rocky 
walls of the Bliimlisalp and the Friindenhorn, and on the left by the 
Petersgrat, is called the Kanderfim.) After l x /4 hr. we quit the snow for 
the left lateral moraine. The route de- scends steeply, over loose stones 
and then over grass, to the Gasternthal, passing a spur which overlooks 
the magnificent ice-fall of the Kander Glacier (which has receded greatly 
of late). We then for a considerable time follow the narrow crest of 
a huge old moraine , which descends precipitously on the right to the 
former bed of the glacier, 170-200' below ; IV2 hr., bridge over the Kander ; 
6 min., the first chalet (coffee, milk, and two beds) ; x /i hr., Selden ; 1 hrs., 
Kandersteg (p. 180). 

"From Lauterbrunnen to the Lotschenthal over the Petersgrat 
(from Trachsellauenen to Eied 10-11 hrs.), trying, but very grand (guide 



160 ///. Route 47. LUTSCHENTHAL. Bernese 

40 fr.). From Trachsellauenen to the (3>/2-4 hrs.) upper Tschingelfirn, see 
above. On the glacier we ascend to the left, between the Mutthorn and 
the Tschingelhorn, to the (3 hrs.) Petersgrat (10.515), a lofty snow-arSte 
commanding a superb view of the Alps of the Valais. Then a steep descent 
over snow, rocky slopes, and turf, either through the Auster Fafler-Thal 
to the Fuller Alp (at the Chalet Seiler refreshm. and 2 beds), or through 
the Telllhal to Blatlen and t3>/2 hrs.) Ried (p. 186). — The Wetterliicke 
(10,365'), between the Tschingelhorn and Breithorn; the Schmadrijoch 
(10,863'), between the Breithorn and Grosshorn ; and theMittagjoch(12 150'), 
between the Grosshorn and Mittaghorn, are difficult (guides 45-50 fr.). 

From Lauteebeunnen to the Eggishoen over thcLauinenthor (HfiOCf), 
a difficult and hazardous expedition (18 hrs., the night being spent in the 
Eoththal Hut; guide 100 fr.), through the wild Rotkthal, across the hugerock- 
arSte connecting the Jungfrau (13,670') and Qletscherhorn (13,064'), and down 
the Kranzberg-Fim and the Oreat Aletsch Glacier to the Concordia But and 
the Eggishorn Hotel (p. 305). — Over the Roththal-Sattel (12,330'), close 
to the Jungfrau (p. 162), also very difficult and dangerous (19-20 hrs. to 
the Eggishorn). — Over the Ebnefluhjoch (12,300'), between the Ebnefluh 
and Mittaghorn, very laborious, but without danger to experts (15-16 hrs.). 

— It will repay a good walker to go as far as the Rothlhal But (8860'; 
6 hrs. from Lauterbrunnen, crossing the Slufen stein- Alp), and to return the 
same way (a good day's walk; for experts only; guide 15 fr.). 

47. From Interlaken to Grindelwald. Wengernalp. 

Comp. Maps, pp. US, ISt. 
12 M. Obeeland Railway (comp. p. 154) in 1 hr. 12 min. (fares 5, 
3 fr., return 8 fr., 4 fr. 80 c). Cakkiage from Interlaken to Grindelwald 
and back in one day, one-horse 13, two-horse 25 fr., in two days 28 or 45 fr. 

— Far preferable is the journey via Lauterbrunnen and thence by the 
new "Wengebnalp Railway to Grindelwald (from Lauterbrunnen to 
Grindelwald, 11 M., in 2 1 /* hrs.; 2nd class 14 fr. 40 c, 3rd cl. 9 fr.). — 
Pedestrians still often prefer the beautiful Walk over the Wengernalp to 
Grindelwald ; bridle-path to the Wengernalp 3 (descent 2), Little tscheidegg 
3 /4 (descent i/i), Grindelwald 2'/z hrs. (ascent 3'/2); in all 6 l /4 hrs. from 
Lauterbrunnen. 

I. Obebland Railway. From Interlaken to (5 M.) Zweilutschinen 
(2150'), see p. 154. The railway to Grindelwald diverges to the left 
from that to Lauterbrunnen, and beyond the hamlet of Gundlitchwand 
approaches the Black Liitschine. It then ascends the left bank of 
the stream, traversing a tunnel and a snow-shed, in the finely wooded 
and populous Liitschenthal. The road runs on the other bank, 
beneath the slopes of the Schynige Platte (p. 152). Beyond the 
station of (7V2 ^) Liitschenthal (2355') the railway also crosses to 
the right bank and ascends the Stalden by means of a rack-and- 
pinion section (1936 yds. long; gradient 12 : 100) to (9 M.) Burg- 
lauenen (2915'). In front appear the Wetterhorn and the Berglistock. 
Farther on we pass through the defile of the Ortweid, after which 
a view of the beautiful valley of Grindelwald is suddenly disclosed : 
to the right is the massive Eiger, adjoined by the Jungfrau with 
the Schneehorn and the Silberhorn ; in the middle distance are the 
Mettenberg and the Schieckhorner, farther off the Finsteraarhorn 
and the Grosse Fiescherhorn ; and to the left the graceful Wetter- 
horn. The railway finally ascends another toothed rail section 
(1420 yds.) to (12 M.) Grindelwald (p. 163 ). The station (3400') 
'" ' '" " " from the liar Hotel. 



Oberland. WENGERNALP. III. Route 47. 161 

II. FfiOM LaTJTEBBBUNNEN TO GbINDELWAI/D OVEB THE WEN- 

OEBNAiiP. The *Wengernalp Line (rack- and -pinion railway on 
Biggenbach's system) skirts the left bank of the Liitschine, turns to 
the left above the village, and crosses the river opposite the Staub- 
bach (p. 155). It then rapidly ascends the steep slopes below the 
village of Wengen, where it passes over several viaducts and bridges. 
To the left we overlook the lower Lauterbrunnen Valley; high up is 
the village oflsenfiuh, and farther back the Sulegg (p. 153). As- 
cending through meadows interspersed with trees, and describing a 
wide curve, the train arrives at the (l 2 / 3 M.) station of Wengen 
(4190'), situated above the scattered village of that name, much vis- 
ited as a summer and health resort (^Pens. Alpenrose and *H6t.- 
Pens. Mittaghorn, pens. 5-6 f r. , nearest to the station; *Pens. 
Wengen, b-b^J^ fr., 20 min. to the S. ; 20 min. lower down still, on 
the Lauterbrunnen path, the small Hot.-Pens. Silberhorn , see be- 
low). — Farther on , we gradually ascend towards the S. , enjoying 
a continuous view of the grand mountains and glaciers of the upper 
Lauterbrunnen Valley, dominated by the Breithorn. We pass along 
the base of the precipitous Tschuggen (p. 163) and below the slopes 
of the Lauberhom (p. 163), and, skirting the Galtbachhorn (7608') 
to the left by a lofty embankment, reach the (4'/2 M.) station of 
Wengernalp(6158'; *H6t. Jungfrau, R,, L., & A^ 4-5, B. 2, D. 
4 fr. ; carved wood by A. Zurftiih) , situated on a sloping meadow. 
To the W. we obtain a good survey of the valley of Lauterbrunnen, 
with the Staubbach (p. 155) reduced to a mere thread, its upper 
fall, and the windings of the brook before its final leap. High above 
the valley are the large hotels of Miirren. 

Bridle-path from Lauteebruknen to the Wengernalp (3 hrs.). From 
the station, we descend to the left past the Hotel Steinbock, cross the 
Liitschine, and ascend straight on, soon joining the path from the Staub- 
bach Hotel. 3/4 hr. Hot.-Pens. Silberhorn, with a pavilion which affords 
a beautiful view of the Lauterbrunnen Valley. Farther up, where (20 min.) 
a finger-post shows the way to the right to the ( l /i hr.) Pens. Wengen, we 
keep to the left to the (8 min.) H6t.-Pens. Mittaghom, and next reach the 
(3 min.) Pent. Alpenrose (above, to the left, is the Wengen station; see 
above). We then ascend straight on towards the precipitous Tschuggen 
(p. 163), at the base of which (72 hr. ; cantine) the path turns to the right; 
it then passes a second canline (famous echo), skirts the slopes of the 
Lauberhom , and enters a pine-wood (marshy at places). On quitting the 
wood (40 min.) we avoid the broad path in a straight direction (which 
leads to the Mettlenalp, p. 162), and ascend to the left, rapidly at first, 
to the ( s /4 hr.) Hdtel Jungfrau (see above). 

The *Jungfrau (13,670'), with her dazzling shroud of eternal 
snow, flanked by the Silberhorn (12,155') on the right, and the 
Schneehorn (11,205') on the left, now appears in all her majesty. 
The proportions of the mountain are so gigantic, that the eye in 
vain attempts to estimate them, and distance seems annihilated by 
their vastness. The highest peak, farther S., is not visible hence or 
from Lauterbrunnen. The base, as far as it is seen, is precipitous. 

Avalanches. These terrible and magnificent phenomena are caused by 
the accumulation of vast masses of snow and ice on the upper parts of the 

Baedeker, Switzerland. 15th Edition. H 



162 III. Route 47. JUNGFRAU. Bernete 

mountains, from which, as the warmer season advances, they slide off by 
their own weight with irresistible force. On the Wengernalp the traveller 
will have an opportunity of witnessing the ice-avalanche, or fall of portions 
of the glacier detached under the influence of the summer s sun. Seen 
from a distance the falling ice, breaking into fragments in its descent, re- 
sembles a rushing cataract, and is accompanied by a noise like thunder. 
These avalanches are most numerous shortly after noon, when the sun 
exercises its greatest power. Except that the solemn stillness which 
reigns in these desolate regions is interrupted by the echoing thunders of the 
falling masses , the spectacle can hardly be called imposing. The appar- 
ently insignificant white cascade, however, often consists of hundreds of 
tons of ice, capable of sweeping away whole forests and villages, but 
fortunately descending into the uninhabited Triimleten-Thal, a deep gorge 
between the Jungfrau and the Wengernalp. 

Between 1811, when the Jungfrau was scaled for the first time by the 
two Meyers of Aarau , and till 1856 the ascent was only accomplished five 
times ; but it has since been undertaken frequently, and though extremely 
fatiguing, is unattended with danger to experts (guides 80 fr. each; with 
descent to the Eggishorn, 100 fr. ; porter 60 and 80 fr.). The ascent from 
Grindelwald is much facilitated by spending a night in the Berglihiltte 
(p. 166), 8-9 hrs. from Grindelwald ; thence over the Monchjoch and the Jung- 
fraufirn to the Roththal-Sattel (p. 160) 4-4'/2hrs., and to the top in li/ 4 hr. 
more. — Travellers ascending from the Eggishorn Hotel spend the night in 
the Concordiahiitle (p. 305), 5 hrs. from the hotel; thence to the summit 
6-7 hrs. — The ascent from Lauterbrunnen by the Roththal-Sattel is very 
hazardous and has now been practically abandoned. In 1885 the Jungfrau 
was ascended by a new route from the Roththal Hut (p. 160), leaving the 
Roththal to the right (5V2-7V2 hrs., a steep rock climb, but not dangerous 
for climbers with steady heads ; guide 80, with descent to the Eggishorn 
100 fr.). — The Silberhorn (12,155') was ascended for the first time, in 
1863, by Ed. v. Fellenberg and Karl Baedeker (from the Wengern-Scheid- 
egg by the Eiger , Ouggi , and Giessen Glaciers , in 12'/2 hrs. ; difficult 
and trying; guide 50 fr.). The ascent by the W. arete was first per- 
formed in 1887 by Mr. Sepmour King with the guides Ambr. Supersax 
and L. Zurbriicken. 

The Mettlenalp (5580'), on the N. side of the Triimleten-Thal, also af- 
fords a noble survey of the Jungfrau. From the bifurcation of the path, 2 hrs. 
from Lauterbrunnen and 3 /i hr. from the Hotel Jungfrau (p. 161), we reach 
the Alp in a straight direction in 3 / 4 hr.; the Jungfrau is here visible from 
base to summit. From the Mettlenalp we may either ascend to the Wengern- 
alp in 3 / 4 hr., or walk round the head of the Triimleten-Thal to the (1 hr.) 
Biglenalp, with the Kuhlauenen Glacier. From the Biglenalp to the 
Wengernalp 3 /t hr. 

A visit to the Guggi Club-Hut (7970'), at the N.W. base of the Monch, 
between the Eiger and Guggi Glaciers, is recommended to good walkers 
with steady heads (3-4 hrs. from the Wengernalp or the Kleine Scheidegg, 
with guide, 5 fr.). The passage of the crevassed Eiger Glacier, which has 
advanced considerably of late years, and forms a beautiful archway of ice 
with a lofty waterfall at its lower end, takes 1 1/2-2 hrs. (step-cutting being 
necessary from the middle onwards); then a steep climb of l'/2 hr. over 
rock, debris, and patches of snow to the Club Hut, grandly situated. 
Steep descent over the ridges of rock below the Guggi Glacier to the 
(l'/2 hr.) upper end of the Bandlauinenwand , and a somewhat difficult 
clamber down this slope to the Biglenalp (see above). 

A gradual ascent of 10 min. by rail brings us to the (53/ 4 M.) 
station Scheidegg, on the summit of the pass, called the Little Schei- 
degg, Lauterbrunnen -Scheidegg, or Wengern - Scheidegg f6788' ; 
*Hdtel Bellevue, R., L., & A. 4-5, B 2, D. 4 fr. ; wood-carver Jean 
Zurfltih). This ridge, which descends abruptly on both sides affords 
a striking view of the valley of Grindelwald , bounded on the N. by 



I 

a . 
1£ 



"'■• s '--*. - _«>7 -* w' i% 



^rfl^V S Bin 






Mask 







Vaosrairr:'' 



♦ 






^^ 









Viv-sctoeandrn V , . •' t t r , 

MnzlcnA. > T>xl> 



-\ 



HFiT 






««a- 



fJ^nspun/i 



Xaucfurhorrv 



s^B 



^ 









ciiiuttutchw, ± 



lUilflllH-. ■. , - 



■;>J8tt(u$ay 



/ 



^i^^^C^^^^^^^ 1 ^ 



^ 



•jrnj* 



r- 






i.';rr- ' 












, Atfinntichcn. 2 



j.'-4.7.Kl .^ / *fa£$rtffen. 



^5ctW| 



mtrfdr 
hi 



ItpC 



WhZSrbulrtertWXigi ^' 






hob-Barn. J 
BrcUeiihuim. ^,/ * 

-JBhllNul 



schiujgen 



Ali^^' 






^ 






J? 



J&tSm.-A 



Tjoiibprhurir' 

uuhnmatten. 



/~- 



HSc 



l-A. 









--; WWrasbirg V 5 ^ 



tf 



Bogmiggni-'Pf ■■■.. .'"' 



/ C M&leitrA. „ i. , 



"SfJte, 



' SchM'.MilHrli 



.SUberhuni ™\ ■' ' J* Jvngf ra 



Deutsclw £t*nrii\>fnfle 



UTiilisliilili'S 



> *&.; k. -mm, 



r&C3 




WvuboiSea^ Htaterbg.-A 1 ^'. J^na^ fi-:.^"^ S/ £ 






VUsdteren '•■^MUlzA. 
TfiuuUOtorn- ' rTKlfljrulIfuni- 



■Wimdel-Alp 



trofer- WUflgerst 











m^fe 



» sl T\>nffi,^ 



^.^ d Untei-s&fJ, 
.•^ •■;.(«. Snnmrtist. -A •!.(■•'•. 



'Z7B3 



>-fe 



^ptf ff tffzumn, " 



» 



Gstlfltfionv r « -A c 

2-frufcTA. ^ ~ \V 0> 









W7 











ami c S"**nfil:„ I IZZZ&, '' .... = 

V GwaeWen«ra ,*-tyi,s. 'A '■ \&,\ Grtmbergh . , 'a. §| , 

tt.<it_ - i^_ M ? 7 "Oa Jxaita-aaW. ?,-«/ ... ,,-b/, = 






- " > . | s EschBrhonu. 

I «. SjnV-mM .vtnmbrrjiti 




'% 



mVl ma.U.Fiesrl,rr-T. A> '^ iz t°T , & 



,.(r 



V C 



,A 



S A 



f^ JhWrlwrg 



'''Sttqisattcl 

Enster^rlLoriL^- 



tJnmelrtiorjVs 

J '■ ' Oberaar - ff-l. 



1:150.000 



* s "Wagiier &DebeK,lei^zii5. 






Oberland. GRINDELWALD. III. Route 47. 163 

the mountains which separate it from the Lake of Brienz (to the ex- 
treme left is the blunt cone of the Faulhorn with its inn). On the S., 
a splendid view of the Monch, Eiger and Jungfrau, with the Silber- 
hoin and Schneehorn. 

The *Lauberhorn (812ff), a peak rising from the ridge which runs to 
the N. from the Scheidegg to the Mannlichen, may be ascended from the 
Scheidegg in 1 hr., or from the Wengernalp in l'/2 hr. This ascent is chiefly 
recommended to those who have not visited the Faulhorn. View extensive 
and imposing. Travellers from Grindelwald add only i 1 /^ hr. to their walk 
by taking the route from the Scheidegg to the Hotel Jungfrau over the Lau- 
berhorn. Guide hardly necessary. — The Tschuggen (8278'; ascent more 
fatiguing), which rises to the N. of the Lauberhorn, commands a more ex- 
tensive, but less picturesque view. — Or the traveller may walk from the 
Scheidegg along the E. slope of the Tschuggen to the (272-3 hrs.) "Mfinn- 
lichen (7695'), the N. summit of this ridge (p. 165). In this case the walk 
from Lauterbrunnen to Grindelwald will take 9-10 hrs. The Mannlichen 
may also be ascended direct from Wengen (steep but not difficult; guide 
6 fr., to Grindelwald 10, from Lauterbrunnen to Grindelwald 12 fr.). — 
The Fatlbodenhubel (7136 ) , reached in 72 hr. by ascending the pastures 
to the S. of the Scheidegg, affords a good survey of the Eiger and Guggi 
Glaciers. — A 6ne new ice grotto has been hewn into the Eiger Glacier 
(bridle-path, lhr. from the Scheidegg). — To the Guggi Club Bui, see 
p. 162; ascent of the Eiger and MGnch, see p. 162 Silberhorn, see p. 165. 

We descend, at first high above the bridle-bath, over the stony 
slopes and scanty pastures of the Wergisthal-Alp, at the foot of the 
Eiger, to (8M.) station Alpiglen (5287'; *H6tel des Alpes, pens. 
5-6 fr.) , on a commanding terrace. [The direct path hence to the 
; Eismeer' (p. 165) is interesting and repaying, but should be 
attempted only by experts with guides, ice-axes, and ropes.] Then, 
a steep descent into the valley of the Black Lutschine, to (101/2 M.) 
stat. Grund (3103'), whence the train backs out, crosses the Lut- 
schine, and re-ascends to the Oberland Station at (11 M.) Grindel- 
wald (p. 160). 

Grindelwald. — *Bae, at the W. end of the village, rebuilt in 1893, 
R., t,., & A. 4-5 fr. ; "Schwarzee Adlee, at the E. end, with a pleasant garden, 
R., L., & A. 4-5, B. I72, D. 4-41/2, pens. 10 fr. ; Hot. Eigee, in the middle 
of the village, R., L., & A. 372, D. 4, pens. 6-7 fr. ; "Hot. do Glaciee, 
outside the village, to the W., R. from 272, B. H/2, D. 4, A. 1, pens. 
8 fr. ; Hot.-Pens. Gbindelwald , R. 3 fr. ; Hot.-Pens. Buegenee, R. 21/2, 
B. I1/4, pens. 6-7 fr. ; Pension Schonegg, by the post-office, with gar- 
den, pens. 5 fr. — Guides: Peter Baumann ('am Guggen'), Christ, and Ulrich 
Aimer, Chr. Jossi, Rud. Kaufmann (Obmann), Peter Baumann ■ Tuf (bach, 
Peter Schlegel, Chr. Bohren-Trychelegg, Peter Kaufmann ('Grabenpeter'), 
Rud. Kaufmann-Bohren, Chr. Roth, two Bans Kaufmanns, Bans Baumann, 
Gott. Meier, Hans Bernet, VI. Rubi, the brothers Jossi, Joh. Heimann, and 
many others. — Tariff mentioned in the description of each excursion. 

Grindelwald (3468'; pop. 3087), properly Gydisdorf, a large 
village of widely scattered houses, is an excellent starting-point for 
mountain excursions, and also a favourite summer-resort, the situa- 
tion being sheltered and healthful. A large portion of the village 
was burned down on 18th Aug. 1892, during a violent Foehn , but 
the reconstruction is rapidly advancing. 

Grindelwald chiefly owes its repute to its two Glaciers, which, 
however, are inferior to the Rhone Glacier and many others in 

11* 



164 III. Route 47. GRINDELWALD. Bernese 

Switzerland. Three gigantic mountains bound the valley on the S., the 
Eiger (13,040'), the Mettenberg (10,197'), which forms the base of 
the Schreckhorn, and the Wetterhorn (12,150')- Between these lie 
the two glaciers, which form the source of the Black Lutschine. 

To visit the *Upper Glacier (horse there and back 8 fr.) we 
follow the Great Scheidegg path (p. 168) as far as the ( 3 /4hr.) Hotel 
Wetterhorn (4040'; R. li/ 2 , pens. 4y 2 -5 fr.; cannon-shot 50 c), 
near which we pass a memorial to Dr. A. Haller of Burgdorf and 
two guides, who perished on the Lauteraar Glacier in 1880. Here 
we diverge to the right, cross the Lutschine and the moraine, and 
in 10 min. reach the artificially hewn Ice Grotto (adm. 50 c. ; a 
small fee is also usually given). 

Another way back to Grindelwald (guide not indispensable) is by a 
patb diverging before the bridge over the Lutschine, and ascending the 
left moraine to the Chalet Milchbach (auberge; visible from below; also 
reached by a direct but rather giddy path from the grotto), which af- 
fords a good view of the ice-fall. The path then enters the wood to the 
right, where it is ill-defined, passing between the Mettenberg and the Hals- 
egg, and then, becoming well marked, descends on the left bank of the 
Lutschine and across the Sulz to (l'A hr.) Grindelwald. — From the Cha- 
let Milchbach we may, by means of ladders (not recommended to novices; 
guide necessary), ascend several rocks on the N.E. slope of the Metten- 
berg, pass through the Milchbachloch and a natural tunnel formed by an 
old glacier-stream (sometimes barred by the ice) , and reach the glacier 
opposite the Schlupf. We may return by the same route; or we may cross 
the glacier and the Enge at the N.W. angle of the Wetterhorn, and reach 
the Great Scheidegg or regain the Hotel Wetterhorn by a dizzy path 
(2>/2-3 hrs. in all; guide 12 fr.). 

The Eisboden ('Ischbode , ; 4400'), a beautiful pasture, 20 min. E. of 
the Hot. Wetterhorn, and close to the base of the Wetterhorn, affords 
a noble survey of the glacier, the Mettenberg, Schreckhcirner, Eiger and 
the Grindelwald Valley. 

To the *Lower Glacier (horse 8 fr.) a footpath descends to the 
right at the notice-board above the Hotel Eiger and crosses the 
Lutschine, and then ascends to the right through underwood and 
over deT>ris. (The path straight on leads to the Biiregg; see p. 165.) 
The road forks a few min. farther on beside a refreshment-stall ; 
we follow the right branch. The retrogression of the glacier has ex- 
posed to view an interesting Gorge of the Lutschine, which has been 
rendered accessible by means of wooden galleries and steps C/2 hr. 
from Grindelwald ; 50 c). A bridle-path ascends the left lateral 
moraine to the (^ hr.) upper part of the glacier, where there is 
an artificial Ice Grotto (50 c). Interesting excursion thence across 
the crevassed glacier to the Baregg (p. 1G5 ; guide, rope and ice-axe 
necessary). If we turn to the left at the above mentioned refresh- 
ment-stall and ascend the right side-moraine, we reach (15 min.) 
a wooden bridge, affording an interesting view of the gorge (50 c), 
and in 10 min. more a hut whence another artificial Ice Grotto is 
accessible (50 c). From this point we may also ascend direct to 
the Baregg path (see below). — In returning from the gorge of the 
Lutschine we may follow the left bank and cross the lower bridge 
to (25 min.) Grindelwald. 



Oberland. GRINDELWALD. III. Route 47. 165 

A visit to the lower *Eismeer ('sea of ice'), the large basin of 
ne"ve" in -which the glacier accumulates before it descends to the 
valley, is interesting. A narrow path (guide necessary for the 
inexperienced ; to Baregg 7, Zasenberg 9 fr. ; horse to the Weissen- 
fluh, 72 hr. below Baregg, 10 fr., not advisable) ascends the slope to 
the left to the (2 hrs.) small Inn on the Baregg (5412'; dear), com- 
manding a fine survey of the glacier, to which a steep flight of wooden 
steps descends. (Fee of 1 fr. for the use of the path, whether the 
glacier itself is visited or not.) 

Glacier Expedition. The following easy walk will make the trav- 
eller more familiar with this icy region. We cross (1 hr., with guide) the 
Eismeer to the stone chalet of Zasenberg (6050'), surrounded by pastures, 
and occupied by shepherds in summer. Vegetation soon disappears. On 
every side tower huge and wild masses of ice, and the view is bounded 
by the imposing summits of the Eiger, Schreckhorner, Fiescherhorner, etc. 
If the traveller does not go beyond the middle of the Eismeer (sufficiently 
far) , the whole excursion may easily be accomplished from Grindelwald 
and back in 5 hrs. — The ascent of the * Zaseriberghom (7687'; magnificent 
survey of the glaciers) takes f/2 hr. from the Zasenberg (guide 12 fr.). 
— The Eigerhohle, a grotto visible from the Zasenberg (2 hrs.; fatiguing; 
with guide) may also be visited. — Lastly, an interesting trip may be 
made from the Baregg to the Zasenberghorn, Fiescherfirn., and Eigerhohle, 
and back by the Kalli (p. 166; 5-6 hrs.; guide 20 fr.). 

The 'Mannlichen (7695') is ascended from Grindelwald without diffi- 
culty in 4 hrs. (horse 18 fr. ; guide 10 fr., unnecessary). Our path diverges 
to the right from the Little Scheidegg path, after the Lutschine is crossed, 
and ascends by the Itramen Alp. Admirable panorama , from the TJri 
Rothstock and Titlis to the Blumlisalp. About 20 min. below the summit, 
on the depression between the Mannlichen and Tschuggen (p. 163), is the 
small °H6tel Grindelwald - Rigi (R., L., & A. 3>/2-4, B. I1/2, D. 4 fr.). — 
From the Little Scheidegg (p. 162) we may ascend the Mannlichen by 
skirting the E. slope of the Tschuggen (272-3 hrs. ; with guide). From 
Wengen (p. 161) a steep path ascends in 2'/2 hrs. 

The Mettenberg (Mittelberg, 10,197') is recommended to mountaineers 
(laborious, 4 hrs. from the Baregg Inn ; guide 30 fr.). Most imposing view 
of the Schreckhorn , rising in the immediate vicinity, and of the Finster- 
aarhorn; also a striking survey of the Eismeer and the valley of Grindelwald. 

Ascent of the Jungfrau, p. 162; Finsleraarhom (from Grindelwald 
via the Agassizjoch, dangerous as a descent on account of falling stones), 
p. 177 ; Welterhorn, p. 168. — Gross-Schreckhorn (13,3S5'; from the Schwarz- 
egg Club-hut 7-8 hrs.; guide 80 fr.), ascended for the first time by Mr. Leslie 
Stephen in 1861, very difficult. — Klein-Schreekhom (11,475'), from the 
Schwarzegg Club-hut 4-6 hrs., or from the Gleckstein Hut (p. 168) 5-6 hrs., 
interesting and for experts not difficult (guide 60 fr.). — Monch (13,465'; 
first scaled by Dr. Porges of Vienna in 1857) , ascended either from the 
Bergli-Hiltte by the Mbnchjoch (p. 166) in 372-4 hrs., or from the Guggi-Hiitle 
(p. 162) by the Guggi Glacier and the Jungfraujoch in 7-8 hrs. (guide 
70-80 fr.). — Eiger (13,040'; first ascended by Mr. Ch. Barrington in 1858), 
from the Little Scheidegg by the Eiger Glacier and up the W. arete, 
572-7' hrs. (guide 80 fr.). All these are for thorough adepts only. 

Passes. To the Gkimsel Hospice over the °Strahlegg (10,995' ; 14 hrs.; 
two guides, 40 fr. each), a grand, but toilsome route. The night is passed 
in the Schwarzegg Club-hut (8200 1 ) on the upper Eismeer, 5 hrs. from Grin- 
delwald. Thence a steep ascent over ice and rock to the (3 hrs.) pass, 
lying between the Gross-Lauteraarhorn and the Strahlegghorner; descent 
over the Etrahleggfim and the Finsleraar and Unteraar Glaciers to the 
(3-4 hrs.) Pavilion Doll/us (p. 177) and the (3 hrs.) Grimsel Hospice 
(p. 176). In the reverse direction (especially if a night be spent in the 
Pav. Dollfus) the route is less trying and more interesting. — Finsteraar- 
.joch (11,025'; 15-16 hrs.; guides 40 fr. each), between the Strahlegghorner 



166 III. Route 48. FAULHORN. Bernese 

and the Finsteraarhorn, very trying, with splendid views of the Finster- 
aarhorn, etc. — Lauteraar-Sattel (10,355' j 16-17 hrs.; guides 50 fr. each), 
between the Schreckhbmer and the Berglistock, a fatiguing pass, but with- 
out serious difficulty to proficients. The night is spent in the Gleckstein- 
Hiitte (p. 168) ; thence we ascend the Upper Grindelwald-Firn in 6-6 hrs. 
to the pass, which affords a grand survey of the Gross-Schreckhorn, Lauter- 
aarhorn, etc. We then descend a steep snow slope to the Lauteraarfirn 
(sometimes guarded by a wide 'Bergschrund 1 or chasm) and the (3 hrs.) 
Pav. Doll/us (p. 177). — Over the Bergli-Joch to the Vrbachthal, see p. 175. 
Passes from Grindelwald to the Eggishorn (p. 305), for experts 
only, with able guides. The Jungfraujoch(ll,090'; two guides, 100 fr. each), 
between the Jungfrau and Monch , leading from the Wengernalp to the 
Eggishorn Hotel in I6V2 hrs., is very difficult and trying. The night is 
spent in the Guggi-Hiitte (p. 162), and the Guggi Glacier is then ascended. 
— The passage of the Monchjoch (11,910'; guides 60 fr. each), 15 hrs. 
from Grindelwald to the hotel, also difficult, is facilitated by spending a 
night in the Bergli-Hutte (see below), or when the journey is made in the 
reverse direction, in the Concordia- Hutte (p. 305). This is comparatively 
the easiest and finest of these glacier expeditions. From the Baregg we 
cross the lower Eismeer to the opposite moraine, and ascend the precipitous 
Kalli for 2'/2 hrs. ; then cross the much crevassed Grindelwald - Fiescher 
Glacier to the (3 hrs. ; 8-9 hrs. from Grindelwald) Bergli-Hutte (10,825'), 
commanding a grand though not extensive view of the Fiescherwand, 
Schreckhorner, Eiger, etc. From the hut a steep climb of 3/4 hr. over 
rock and glacier to the Unter- Monchjoch (11,810'), between the Monch 
and Fieschergrat; thence either to the right over the Ober-Monchjoch 
(11,930'), between the Monch and Trugberg, to the Jungfraufirn (p. 162) 
and down to the Great Aletsch Glacier and (5-6 hrs.) Eggishorn Hotel; 
or to the left, over the vast Ewigschneefeld to the Aletsch Glacier (the 
two routes unite at the Concordia Hut). — The Eigerjoch (11,875'; guides 
100 fr.), between the Eiger and Monch, 22 hrs. from the Wengernalp to 
the Eggishorn, a night being spent in the Guggi-Hiitte (see p. 162), whence 
the Eiger Glacier is ascended, is very difficult. — The Fiescherjoch or 
Ochsenjoch (about 11,700'), E. of the Kleine Fiescherhorn, or Ocht 
(12,812'), 22 hrs. from Grindelwald to the Eggishorn, is very toilsome and 
lacks interest. 



48. The Faulhorn, 

Comp. Map, p. 162. 

Ascent of the Faulhorn from Grindelwald 4s/« (descent 3) hrs. ; from 
the Faulhorn to the Great Scheidegg 3 (ascent 4) hrs. ; from the Scheidegg to 
Grindelwald 2 (ascent 3) hrs. — Ascent of the Faulhorn from Interlaken by 
the Schynige Platte (p. 152) 8 hrs.; to the Platte 4 hrs. (descent 2'/2), thence 
to the Faulhorn 4 (descent 3) hrs. — Guide (10 fr. from Grindelwald and 
back ; if a night be spent at the top, 13 fr.) unnecessary. Chair-porters 6 fr. 
each ; if they pass the night on the top, 12 fr. (three generally suffice ; a 
bargain should be made beforehand). Horse from Grindelwald and back 20 
(or with one night out, 25) fr. ; to the top and back by the Great Scheid- 
egg 30, with descent to Meiringen or Im Hof 40 fr. ; from Interlaken by the 
Schynige Platte and the Faulhorn to Grindelwald 40 fr. ; from Meiringen 
to the Faulhorn in 1 day 30 fr., to the Faulhorn and Grindelwald 36 fr. 
— "Inn on the summit (unpretending, R. 5, L. & A. f/2, B. 2, D. 5 fr.). 

The Taulhorn (8803'), rising between the Lake of Brienz and 
the valley of Grindelwald, and composed of black, friable, calcareous 
schist (the name being probably derived from faul, 'rotten'), is a 
very favourite point of view, as it commands an admirable survey 
of the giants of the Bernese Oberland (see Panorama). To the N., 
at our feet, lies the Lake of Brienz, with its surrounding mountains, 




DaaTVirthshaiiagebainle -auf dnnTaiilhom 



BuSSdlp 



lauterbnuuten Sehriilt££ 
2080 



ZntlMgffcn 252.1 
L auberhidrn2W5 



Haimlicheii 23*3 



SAt / n<yi~OAXUX/Mr<ynvl(^e- J'-OAllm>X4V . 



*j AXAicyvcvttva. wy^ oAX\\)Cxy&x/y\y .-i™/ U&exxveA/ C^b-e tXouvcb . 



JyOytuyxoAiux^ stu. ^/Ou\jJu(xyxA\y^ 



Oberland. FAULHORN. III. Route 48. 167 

from the Augstmatthorn to the Rothhorn ; part of the Lake of Thun, 
with the Niesen and Stockhorn, is also visible; to the N.E. are 
parts of the Lakes of Lucerne and Zug, with Pilatus and the Rigi ; 
then the Lakes of Morat and Neuchatel. The prospect does not, 
however, embrace the hill -country of N. Switzerland, which so 
greatly enhances the beauty of the view from the Rigi. 

The Path rrtoM Grindei/wald to the Faulhorn (4 3 / 4 hrs.) 
leads for 3 / 4 hr. through enclosed meadows and past detached houses. 
From the Bar Hotel we cross the road and ascend round the house 
in front, to the left. After 3 min., to the right; 10 min., at a cross- 
way, straight on; 5 min., to the right; 2 min., to the left past a 
cottage; then generally towards the E. The footpath soon unites 
with the bridle-path ; 1/2 hr., a gate, then a wood, which we quit in 
10 min. ; i/ 4 hr., the Eertenbilhl (5157'), a large pasture with sev- 
eral chalets, in the middle of which the path turns sharply to the 
left, ascending past a little cabaret into (10 min.) wood; 10 min., 
to the right, past a small pond; 20 min., the path divides for per- 
sons descending (who here keep to the left) ; a little farther, a gate ; 
25 min., Waldspitz (6200'; *H6t.-Pens. Alpenrose, unpretending), 
with a splendid view. This point is nearly half-way, the other half 
is less steep. To the left (20 min.) a pretty fall of the Muhlibach, 
which we cross near the chalets of the Bach- Alp (6496'). Good 
drinking-water issues abundantly from the rock , 10 min. farther. 
Then a moderate ascent of 3 / 4 hr. to the Bachalp-See (7428'), in 
a stony basin , bounded on the left by the Rothihorn (9052') and 
Simelihorn (9030'), and on the right by the Ritzengratli (8282'). 
(By the stone hut the path diverges to the left for travellers de- 
scending to the Scheidegg, see below.) The top of the Faulhorn is 
now in view. The path, indicated by stakes for guidance in fog or 
snow, ascends rapidly for nearly 1 hr. over crumbling slate and 
limestone. We pass another stone hut, cross the pastures at the 
foot of the peak, and reach the top by a zigzag path in 1 / i hr. more. 
The Inn (see above) lies on the S. side, 35' below the summit. 

The Path from Gkindei/wald to the Faulhorn by the Bussalp is 
recommended for the return-route to Grindelwald (guide necessary). Ad- 
mirable view from the '■Burg' (7247'), which of itself merits a visit from 
Grindelwald (2y 2 hrs.). 

The Path from the Faulhorn to the Scheidegg (3 hrs. ) di- 
verges to the left from the Grindelwald path, near the ( 3 / 4 hr.)hut on 
the Bachalp-See, traverses the stony slopes of the Ritzengratli, and 
keeps nearly the same level for some distance ; '/-2 hr., a gate between 
the Bach-Alp and the Widderfeld-Alp ; 5 min. farther, to the left, 
not down the bed of the brook ; 10 min., the 'First', a ridge affording 
a magnificent view of the Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn, Finsteraarhorn, 
Grindelwald-Fiescherhorner, with their glacier , the Eiger, and the 
valley of Grindelwald ; 8 min., we keep to the left and cross the 
brook; 7 min., we descend to the left over black, crumbling slate, 
and reach a gate where the Qrindelalp begins. The path is now lost 



168 III. Route 49. WETTERHORN. Bernese 

at places , but soon becomes more distinct , the direction being 
slightly to the left of the Wetterhorn ; i / i hr. , a small brook is 
crossed, and the path is now well defined ; 5 min., a brook ; 10 min., 
a natural bridge over the Bergelbach ; 5 min., the Obere Grindelalp 
(6410'), with a spring; 1/4 hr., a gate, but we turn to the right 
on this side of the enclosure, pass through the next gate (12 min.), 
and make for the top of a hill; 8 min., Scheidegg Inn. 

In ascending from the Scheidegg, be careful not to turn to the left at 
the bridge over the Bergelbach ; farther on, where the path is lost on the 
pastures, again avoid turning to the left, follow a direction parallel with 
a long enclosure lying a little to the left, and make for the slope of the 
mountain, at the foot of which the path is regained. 

The view from the Faulhorn is partially intercepted by the neigh- 
bouring group of the Simelihorn (9030') and the Rbthihorn (9052') , rising 
between the Finsteraarhorn and the Schreckhorn, and, though not without 
picturesque effect , concealing part of the Alpine chain , the valley of 
Grindelwald, and the two glacier-tongues. The latter, from which the 
magnificent view is uninterrupted, is easily ascended from the Bachalp-See 
in l'/2 hr. (guide advisable). 

The view is still grander and more extensive from the "Schwarzhorn 
(9613'), which, with the Wildgerst (9488'), intercepts the view from the Faul- 
horn on the E. side. (The lakes of Lungern, Sarnen, Alpnach, and Kiissnacht 
are visible hence , all lying in the same line.) The ascent is made from 
the Great Scheidegg by the Grindelalp and the Krinnenboden in 3'/2-4 hrs.; 
or from Rosenlaui by the upper Breitenboden-Alp (6560'), to which there 
is a bridle-path, and the little Blue Glacier, in 5 hrs.; or from Axalp 
(p. 174) in 4 hrs. (guide 12 fr.). 

From the Faulhorn to the Schynige Platte (guide , unneces.-ary 
for adepts, from Grindelwald 18, horse 35 fr.), see p. 153. In descending from 
the Faulhorn , the path (3V2 hrs) is easily found if we are shown the be- 
ginning of it and follow the direction indicated by heaps of stones. The 
only doubtful point is 1 hr. beyond the Sagisthal-See (p. 153), or 10 min. 
beyond the top of the ridge bounding the Sagisthal on theW., where we 
keep to the right at the same level, instead of descending to the left. 

Ascent of the Faulhorn from the Giessbach , 6 hrs. (guide desirable, 
18 fr. to Grindelwald), see p. 174. 

49. From Grindelwald to Meiringen. Baths of Rosen- 
laui. Falls of the Reichenbach. 

Comp. Map, p. 162. 

6 3 /4 hrs. : from Grindelwald to the Great Scheidegg 3 (descent 2) hrs., 
from the Scheidegg to Rosenlaui f/4 (ascent 2'/2) hrs. , from Rosenlaui to 
Meiringen 2 (ascent 3) hours. Guide (unnecessary) 12 fr. ; by the Faul- 
horn and Scheidegg 20 fr. ; horte 20 fr. ; from Meiringen to Rosenlaui 10, 
Scheidegg 15, Grindelwald 15 fr. — Riding practicable the whole way, 
but the Keichenbach Falls must be visited on foot. 

The path (footpath to the right, 1 min. beyond Grindelwald 
church) ascends gradually through rich pastures, passing the (1 hr.) 
Hotel Wetterhorn (4040'; path to the Upper Orindtluald Glacier, 
p. 164). In the foreground towers the magnificent and almost per- 
pendicular *Wetterhorn (12,150'), with its three peaks. 

The W. peak, the Vordere Wetterhorn or Hasli-Jungfrau (12,150'), and 
the E. peak (Rosenliorn, 12,11c) were first ascended in 1841, and the 
Mittelliorn (12,165') the following year. The ascent has often been made 
since, and is free from serious difficulty, though requiring perseverance 
and a steady head (guides 60, porters 45 fr. each). The night is spent in 
the Gleckslein Hut (7695'), on the arete descending from the Wetterhorn to 



Oberland. GREAT SCHEIDEGG. IJ I. Route 49. 169 

the Upper Grindelwald Glacier, 5>/2-6 hrs. from Grindelwald. Thence over 
the Krinnen-Firn and the Bdtteli to the W. peak 5-6 hrs. — Descent to 
the Dotsen Hut (and Kosenlaui or Innertkirchen) , see pp. 170, 175. — 
From the Gleckstein Hut over the Bergli-Joch to the Urbachthal, see 
p. 175. — The Berglistock (12,000'), to the right of the Berglijoch (4Vs-5 
hrs. from the club-hut; guide 70 fr.) , commands a superb view of the 
Schreckhorner, Wetterhbrner, etc. 

Avalanches descend in spring from the Wetterhorn in four 
different directions, the snow sometimes extending to the path at 
places and remaining unmelted in summer. As travellers pass the 
(172 hr.) Obere Lauckbuhl-Hutte (5900'), and at various other points 
of the way, they are greeted with a blast of the Alpine horn, an in- 
strument of hark or wood, 6-8' long, the not unpleasing notes of 
which are echoed a few seconds later by the precipices of the Wetter- 
horn. A shot will also be fired for a fee of 50 c. 

The (i/ 2 hr.) Great Scheidegg or Hasli-Scheidegg (6430'; 
Restaur. , with a few beds) , also called the Eselsrucken, a ridge 
1 M. long and only a few paces broad, commands a striking view 
towards the W. The smiling valley of Grindelwald, bounded on the 
S.W. by the pastures and woods of the Little Scheidegg, contrasts 
picturesquely with the bare precipices of the Wetterhorn , which 
tower above us to a giddy height. To the S.W. of the Wetterhorn 
are the Mettenberg, Fieschergrat, Monch, Eiger, and lastly the 
Tschingelgrat , Gspaltenhorn, and Bliimlisalp. Towards the N. the 
view is intercepted by the sombre Schwarzhorn and other peaks 
of the Faulhorn chain. High up on the right, between the Wetter- 
horn and Wellhorn, lies the Schwarzwald Olacier, which has greatly 
decreased of late. 

Travellers from Meiringen who do not wish to ascend the Faulhorn 
should at least follow the Faulhorn path as far as O/2 hr.) the Obere Orin- 
delalp (p. 168), in order to obtain a grand view of the Schreckhorn , the 
Upper Grindelwald Glacier, and the Fieschergrat. From the Grindelalp the 
direct descent to Grindelwald (beyond the well follow the Faulhorn path for 
5 min. more, then turn to left) is not longer than from the Scheidegg. 

Immediately below the Scheidegg we turn to the left and soon 
enter a wood. On the right are the precipices of the Wellhorn, with 
the Schwarzwald Glacier. This part of the route, passing several 
chalets, is attractive and varied. We next reach (1 hr.) the Pension 
zum Schwarzwaldgletscher (unpretending) , finely situated ; then 
cross the Oemsbach , and on the Breitenboden Alp (4650') reach 
the Reichenbach , where the path divides. The path to the left 
follows the left bank of the Reichenbach, and leads in y 2 h r - to 
the Gschwandenmad Alp (p. 170) ; that to the right C/4 hr. longer) 
crosses the Reichenbach, which forms a fine cascade near Rosen- 
laui, and leads on the right bank to the (20 min.) Baths of Rosen- 
lani (4363'; *Hot.$Pem., R., L., & A. 4-5, D. 4V 2 , pens, from 10 fr.). 

Before the Baths are reached, at the point where the forest is quitted, 
a path to the right leads to the Rosenlaui Glacier, imbedded between 
the Wellhorn (10,486') and the Engelhom (91330, and famed for the beauty 
and purity of its ice. Of late years it has receded so much that an 
ascent of l 1 /2-2 hrs. , very rough towards the end, must be made in order 



170 III. Route 49. REIOHENBACH FALLS. Bernese 

to obtain a survey of it; but the grand rock-scenery will in itself repay 
the fatigue. 

Above Rosenlaui lies the Dossen-Hiitte (about 8860'; 6 hrs.), grandly 
situated, an interesting point for good mountaineers (reached also from Im- 
Hof through the Urbachthal in 8 hrs., see p. 175). This is the starting-point 
for the Dostenhorn (10,303'; 1 hr.), the Renfenhorn (10,777'; 2'/2 hrs.), the 
Hangend-Gletscherhorn (10,810'; 4 hrs), and above all for the Wetterhorn 
(12,150'; 4 hrs.). Descent from the Wetterhorn to the (3V2 hrs.) Olecistein 
Hut and (372 hrs.) Grindelwald, see p. 168. — From the Dossen Hut we 
may cross the Wetterlimmi (10,443'), the Oauli Glacier, and the Gauli Pan 
(10,260') to the Grimsel, 10 hrs., fatiguing; with this route the ascent of the 
Ewigtehneehom is easily combined (p. 177). 

The path to Meiringen now follows the Reichenbach. It leads 
at first through underwood , and then traverses the *Gschwanden- 
mad Alp, a beautiful pasture, enclosed by forest, a favourite resort 
of artists. (The first bridge must not be crossed; in the reverse 
direction, we keep to the river, avoiding the shortcut to Schwarz- 
wald, p. 169.) The bare Engelhorner, the grand Rosenlaui Glacier 
between the Dossenhorn and the Wellhorn, and the snow-clad cone 
of the Wetterhorn to the right , together with the beautiful fore- 
ground , present a picture unsurpassed in Switzerland, and most 
striking when approached from Meiringen. 

At the end of the Gschwandenmad Alp, 25 min. from the Baths, 
the Reichenbach is crossed for the last time. Following the right 
bank, the path passes (^ hr.) a saw-mill and auberge , and soon 
descends rapidly. Pleasant view of the Hasli-Thal and the moun- 
tains surrounding the Briinig and Susten. On the brink of the 
slope, 1 hr. from Rosenlaui, is the small inn Zur Zwirgi (3202'). A 
path diverges here to the left to a narrow gorge of the brawling 
Reichenbach, spanned by a wooden bridge (30 c). Farther on 
(5 min.), another path, descending in steps, diverges to the left 
from the bridle-path to the *Falls of the Reichenbach. It leads at 
first through wood , and then to the left across a meadow, to a hut 
(adm. 50c), the best point for seeing the Upper Fall with its 
beautiful jets. In the morning the sun shines into the gorge and 
forms innumerable rainbows. The less important Central Fall (Kessel- 
fall) is guarded by another hut (25c). At the foot of the hill is 
the Hotel Reichenbach (see below), from which a path leads to the 
(^4 hr.) Lower Fall (illumination every evening in summer). From 
the hotel we cross the Willigenbrucke to (*/4 hr.) Meiringen. 

The falls are seen to the best advantage in the reverse direction, 
ascending to the left by the Hot. Reichenbach, and reaching the highest 
fall in »/« hr. from Meiringen. Farther on, as Kosenlaui is approached, 
the Wetterhorn and the Wellhorn form a strikingly beautiful background. 

Travellers from Rosenlaui to Im-Hof (the Grimsel, Engstlenalp, etc.), 
may, omitting the Falls of the Reichenbach and Meiringen , save nearly 
an hour by following the bridle-path for 5 min. beyond the path to the 
falls, and then turning to the right by a footpath to the village of (25 min.) 
Geisiholz (2628'), hidden among fruit-trees. Here we ascend the pastures, 
and then rapidly descend the Kirchel (p. 174) to (40 min.) Im-Hof (p. 175). 

Meiringen. — 'Hotel do Sacvage (Zum Wildenmann), with garden, 
R., L., <fc A. 5-6','i, D. 5 fr. ; Hot. de l'Oubs, Hot. BrOkig, both near the 



Oberland. MEIRINGEN. III. Route 49.. 171 

station, new; Kbeuz, Hiksch, unpretending; Hot. de la Gare, opposite 
the station; Cafi-Restaur. Victoria; Railway -Restaur. — Hotel-Pension 
BiEichenbach, with the 'dependance' Des Alpes, on the other side of the 
Aare, B., L., <fc A. 3 J /2 (in the dependance 2), D. 4 fr. — English Church 
Service in the Hot. du Sauvage. — Guides: Melchior, Jakob, Joh., and 
Peter Anderegg, Joh. and Kaspar v. Bergen, Heinrich Fiihrer jr., Kaspar 
and Melchior Blatter, Joh. Tannler , Kaspar Moor , Kaspar Maurer , Franz 
Qlarner, Andreas Urweider, Melchior Zenger, etc. 

Meiringen (IOCS'), the chief village of the Haslithal, almost en- 
tirely burned down in Oct. 1891, but since largely rebuilt in an 
improved style, lies on the right bank of the Aare, in a level 
valley 3 M. in width , surrounded by wooded mountains , above 
which rise several snowy peaks. The Miihlebach , Alpbach, and 
Dorfbach, descending from the Hasliberg at the back of the village, 
form considerable waterfalls (illuminated every evening in summer). 
They often overflow their banks, and cover the whole district with 
rocks, mud, and the slaty debris of the Hasliberg. In order to 
afford a better outlet for these torrents the Aare below Meiringen 
has been converted into a canal , on both sides of which there are 
still extensive traces of their devastations. 

The Hasli-Thal (or Hasli im Weissland) is divided by the Kirchel (p. 174) 
into the Lower and Upper Hasli. The inhabitants are generally of a slight, 
but strong and active frame, and are remarkable for their picturesque 
costume and pure dialect. According to tradition, they are of Swedish or 
Frisian descent, and the opinions of several modern Swedish savants in 
favour of this theory are recorded in a book kept at Meiringen. 

*Gorge of the Aare (Aareschlucht; carriage there and back with 
stay of 1 hr., 4-5 fr.). A road diverges to the left , beyond the O/2 M.) 
Willigenbriicke (see p. 174), on the left bank of the Aare , and reaches 
O/2 M.) a small restaurant at the entrance to the wild and romantic 
rocky gorge, which affords passage to the Aare through the Kirchet 
(p. 174). The gorge was formerly only passable by means of a raft or 
boat when the river was very low, but a path (3 r wide; 1550 yds. long) 
has now been constructed, partly hewn in the rock, partly supported on 
wooden galleries (adm. 1 fr ). The best time to visit this highly interest- 
ing ravine is 9-11 a.m. After about 10 min. we pass a pretty waterfall 
on the left, and after 5 min. more a path diverges by a side-gorge to the 
right to the Kirchet, on the road from Meiringen to Im-Hof (p. 175), by 
which we may return (from the Kirchet via Oeissholz to the "Upper 
Reichenbach-Fall, 3 /4hr., path not to be mistaken; comp. p. 170). 

The "Gorge of the Alpbach, about 1 M. above Meiringen to the N.E., 
was also made accessible in 1889 by a gradually ascending path protected 
by iron railings (adm. 80c). It contains a waterfall, 260' high, descend- 
ing between massive crags. At the entrance there is a beautiful view of 
the valley, with the Engelhorn and Wetterhorn, etc. Small restaurant. 

On the Hasliberg, 3/4 !"*• to the N. of Meiringen , i3 the "Hdt.-Pens. 
Alpbach (5V2-8 fr.), with a charming view, and IV2 hr. farther (good path 
by Golderen and Wasserwendi) lies the village of Hohfluh (3443'; Trau 
Willy's Pension, unpretending), another fine point of view. (Hohfluh may 
also be reached direct from Meiringen by Unterfluh in l'/s hr.) From this 
point the "Hohenstollen (8150'; splendid view) may be ascended by the 
Balisalp in 4 hrs. (with guide ; from Meiringen 12, from the Hot. Alpbach 
7fr.), or from Meiringen direct, by the Magisalp and the Faulenberg in 5 hrs. 
Descent to Melchsee-Frutt, see p. 123. — To the Briinig Pass see p. 124. 

From Meiringen by the Briinig Railway to Lucerne, see R. 35. 



172 

50. From Meiringen to Interlaken. Lake of Brienz. 

Comp. Haps, pp. 14$, 162. 

From Meiringen to Brienz (8 M.) Railway in 25 min. (fares 2 fr. 60, 1 fr. 
95, 80 c). — From Brienz (station) to Interlaken Steamboat 4 times daily in 
1 hr., fare 2 or 1 fr. ; luggage additional, 50 c. for each box. 

The railway skirts the right bank of the Aare. The beautiful 
Oltschibach and other cascades fall from the precipices on the left. 
Beyond (5 M.) Brienzwyler (Hotel Balmhof), where it crosses the 
Briinig road, it skirts the geologically interesting Ballenberg (2385'), 
then bends to the right and follows the shore of the Lake of Brienz, 
via Kienholz, to — 

8 M. Brienz-Tracht (pop. 2531 ; Bar, with a terrace on the lake, 
R., L., & A. 2V2, B. II/4 fr. ; Weisses Kreuz, with garden, R., L., 
& A. 3, B. l 1 ^ fr-; Zum Schutzen , plain), a considerable place, 
li/2 M- in length, pleasantly situated on the Lake of Brienz at the 
foot of the Brienzer Qrat. It is noted for its wood-carving, which 
employs about 600 hands (Fliick's dep6t, etc.). 

The Fluhberg pavilion, '/< hr. above the Kreuz, and the Church afford a 
fine view of the lake, the Faulhorn, the fall of the Oltschibach, the Susten- 
horner, etc., and to the N. of the falls of the Miihlbach (often dry in summer). 

The "Brienzer Rothhorn (7713'), the highest peak of the Brienzer Grat, 
is a famous point of view. Rack-and-Pinion Railway (opened in July 
1892) in 1 hr. 20 min. ; up 10 fr. , down 6 fr. , Sun. there and back 10 fr. 
This line, constructed on Abt's system (ft'4 M. in length; maximum grad- 
ient 25 : 1C0) attains the highest level of all mountain railways (7288'; 
Rigi 5741', Pilatus 6768') and affords a pleasant and interesting trip (best 
views to the left). The station is opposite the Briinig station, 3 min. from 
the steamboat pier. The train ascends through luxuriant meadows, soon 
affording a view of the Lake of Brienz, the Giessbach, and the Schwarz- 
horn range. Beyond the bridge across the Trachtbach the ascent becomes 
steeper; the line approaches the Miihlbach, turns to the right by means of 
the short Schwurzfluh Tunnel and mounts to the (l'/3 M.) station of Oeldried 
(3360'). To the right, we overlook the valley of Meiringen and the Susten- 
hbrner. Describing a large loop, we pass through the Stoctugraben 
Tunnel (130 yds.) and the five tunnels of the Phmalpfluh (together 317 yds. 
in length) to the (2 M.) station Hausstadt (4415'; refrm.), situated in a 
wide valley, and commanding a view of the Bliimlisalp, Doldenliorn, and 
Wildstrabel. We now proceed on the left bank, and farther up on the 
right bank of the Miihlbach over the pastures of the Planalp, past the 
chalets of MitteUtajfel (5023'), and beyond the Kuhmntt-Tunnel (100 yds.) 
attain the (3'/2 M.) watering station of Oberstaffel (6'W). Finally the line 
sweeps in a wide curve round the uppermost valley, bends back by means 
of the two Sehonegg-Tunneh (39 and 145 yds.) and reaches its terminus at 
(4 3 /4 51.) station Rothhorn- Kvlm (7288'), a "few paces below the Restaurant 
(also R. ; hotel under construction) and 12 min. below the summit. The 
''View (Panorama at the inn) embraces the chain of the Bernese Oberland, 
with the Lake of Brienz in the foreground; a glimpse of the Lake of 
Thun beyond Interlaken; the Haslithal from Meiringen nearly to the 
Grimsel ; on the other side the small Ey-See , the Lake of Sarnen , a con- 
siderable part of the Lake of Lucerne with the Rigi, part of the Lake of 
Zug, a long strip of the Lake of Neuchatel, and even the Lake of Constance. 

The Lake of Brienz (1857'), 83/ 4 M. long, and li/ 4 -li/ 2 M. wide, 
500' deep near the Giessbach, ami 859' near Oberried, lies 20' 
higher than the Lake of Thun, with which it is supposed to have 
been once united (p. 149). It is enclosed by lofty wooded rocks and 
mountains. To the S.E. in the background are the snow-clad f>us- 



GIESSBACH. III. Route 51. 173 

tenhorner, to the right the Thierberge. The steamboat starts near 
the railway station, touches at (5 min.) the village of Brienz, and 
then crosses the lake to the (10 min.) Oiessbaeh (see below). The 
lowest waterfall only (see p. 174) is visible from the steamer; above 
it is the hotel, and to the right of the landing-place is the tramway 
station. Farther along the precipitous S. bank is the small wooded 
Schnecken-Insel, with its little chapel , and near it, on the bank, 
lies the pretty village of Iseltwald (*Pens. Iseltwald, i/ 4 M. to the 
W., 5-6 fr., unpretending; Zum Strand). The steamer then crosses 
to Oberried and Niederried, charmingly situated among fruit-trees at 
the foot of the Augstmatthom (p. 153). Farther on, to the N., on a 
wooded promontory, is Ringgenberg (Zur Seeburg), beside the' old 
castle and church of that name , surrounded by underwood and 
orchards, and the old tower of the Church of Ooldstvyl, very pic- 
turesquely placed on an isolated hill. On the opposite bank is the 
influx of the Liitschine, which descends from the valley of Lauter- 
brunnen. The lake gradually contracts to a river, which is named 
the Aare and afterwards falls into the Lake of Thun. The steamer 
stops at Bonigen (p. 148) and enters the canalized Aare , which 
it descends to the steamboat-station of Interlaken -Brienzersee , at 
the E. extremity of Interlaken, near the Hotel du Lac and opposite 
the railway station Interlaken- Ost (p. 149). 

The Road fkom Brienz to Inteklaken (12 M. ; one-horse carr. 
8-10 fr.) , on the N. bank of the lake, passes through (I1/2 M.) Ebligen, (2 M.) 
Oberried, and (3 M.) Niederried; then, high above the lake, it traverses a 
rocky tract to &fe M.) Ringgenberg, passes the small Faulensee (p. 151), at 
the base of the hill with the old church - tower , and leads by Ooldswyl 
(beautiful views) to the upper Aare bridge at (3 M.) Interlaken. 

51. The Giessbach. 

Hotels. "Hotel -Pension Giessbach, a large new building, with a 
restaurant on the ground-floor and a pension (the old hotel), E., L., & A. 
from 5-6, B. li/ 2 , lunch 3 1 /*, D. 41/2-5, pens, (for not less than 5 days) 8-10, 
with R. with view, without view l l j?, L. & A. extra, music 2 fr. per 
week; also whey and well-equipped water-cure, with electric baths etc. 
English Church Service, Post, Telegraph, and Railway Ticket Office at 
the hotel. — "Hotel Beau-Site, 1/4 M. higher, less pretentious, R. & L. 3, 
13. 3, pens. 6 fr. — Carved wood sold by C. Michel (formerly Kehrli). 

''Illumination of the Falls, with Bengal lights, every evening from 
1st June till 30th September (inmates of the hotel 1 fr. each, for the first 
evening only; other persons IV2 fr.). 

Steamboat to Interlaken in 50-60, to Brienz in 15 min., see p. 172. 

Tramway from the landing-place (small restaurant) to the hotel (380' 
long; gradient Q8'/v: 100) in 6 min. (there and back 1 fr. ; luggage under 
50 lbs. 50 c. , over 50 lbs. 1 fr. ; articles in the hand free). The two cars, 
holding 46 passengers each, are connected by a wire cable, running round 
a wheel at the top of the hill. The one car ascends, while the other 
descends, the gravitation of the latter, weighted with water, forming the 
motive power. 

The *Giesshach is one of the prettiest and most popular spots 
in the Bernese Oberland. The stream, which is copious at all 
seasons, rises on the N. slope of the Schwarzhorn (p. 168), and 



174 III. Route 52. KIRCHET. Bernese 

on its way to the lake of Brienz forms a series of seven cascades 
falling from rock to rock, the highest being 1148' above the lake, 
and framed in dark green foliage. The terrace in front of the 
hotel affords a complete view. The falls are crossed by three 
bridges. Paths ascend on both banks to the C/4 hr.) second bridge, 
from which to the third ('/ 2 hr.) there is a path on the right bank 
only. A wooden gallery enables visitors to pass behind the second 
fall. Those who have time should ascend to the Highest Fall, where 
the Giessbach , issuing from a sombre ravine, is precipitated under 
the bridge into an abyss , 190' in depth. (Best view from a pro- 
jecting rock to the right of the bridge.) Above the highest bridge 
theTe is no attraction. About noon rainbows are formed in the falls. 

The *Rauft (2460'; 20 min. from the hotel), a wooded rock on 
the N. side of the valley, rising abruptly 600' above the lake, com- 
mands a view of the Lake of Brienz , the mouth of the Aare , and 
the alluvial district of Brienzwyler ; opposite are the Brienzer Grat 
and the Brienzer Rothhorn (p. 172); then, beyond Interlaken, part 
of the Lake of Thun, overshadowed by the pyramid of the Niesen. 

Pleasant walk to the Alpine hamlet of Enge, situated among beautiful 
pastures. Pretty view at the point O/2 hr.) where the path reaches the 
lake. We then descend past the Naseli to the Aare Bridge and the Mei- 
ringen and Brienz road (p. 172). — About 2'/2 hrs. above the Giessbach 
(porter 5 fr.) lies Axalp (5580') a health-resort with an unpretending "Inn, 
whence the Axalphom (7635'; 2 hrs.), the Faulhorn (p. 166; 5 hrs.), and 
the Schwarzhorn (9610'; 4 hrs. ; guide 10 fr. ; corap. p. 16S) may be as- 
cended. — About 1 hr. from Pens. Axalp (2'/2 hrs. from the Giessbach) 
is the Hinterburg-See (5000') , charmingly situated in wood at the base 
of the Oltschikopf. 

Ascent of the Fadliiorn (p. 166) fkoji the Giessbach, 6 hrs. (guide 
12 fr.), fatiguing at places, especially on the Batlenalp, which is exposed 
to the morning sun. To the S. of the Schwabhorn this path joins the 
bridle-path from the Schynige Platte to the Faulhorn (p. 153). 

Fkom the Giessbach to Interlaken (3'/2 hrs.). A good, well-shaded 
path, crossing the first bridge over the falls, and bearing to the right (see 
linger-posts), leads to the 0/2 hr.) Hochfluh , a charming point of view. 
It then runs high above the lake and descends to (1 hr.) Iseltwald, from 
which a road leads to (li/ 2 M.) Sengg, (3 31.) Bonigen, and (l'/2 M.) Interlaken. 



52. From Meiringen to the Rhone Glacier. Grimsel. 

Comp. Map, p. 110. 

10 hrs. (road as far as Handegg; bridle-path thence to to Rhone Gla- 
cier) : Im-Hof 3'/2 M., Guttannen 7'/2 M., Handegg 6 11.; Grimsel Hospice 
2!/2 hrs. , summit of the Grimsel 1 , Rhone Glacier '/4 hr. (in the reverse 
direction about 8V2 hrs. in all). Diligence to the Handegg twice daily, in 
4 hrs. 25 min. (one-horse carr. 18, two-horse 30 fr.). Horse from the Handegg 
to the Grimsel 10, Rhone Glacier 18-20 fr.; from the Rhone Glacier to the 
Grimsel 6, to the Hospice 10, Handegg lo fr. 

Meiringen, see p. 170. The road crosses the Aare by the Willi- 
genbrilcke (passing, on the right, the upper fall of the Reichenbach, 
p. 170), and ascends the Kirchet (2313'), a wooded hill, sprinkled 
with erratic blocks of granite , which divides the valley into the 
Lower and Upper Haslithal. At the top (IV4 M.) is the auberge 



Oberland. GUTTANNEN. III. Route 52. 175 

'Zur Lamm', where a finger-post indicates the path to the 'Fin- 
stere Aarschlucht' to the left (p. 171 ; pedestrians should follow the 
path through the gorge, l /i hr. longer than the road). 

The road descends the Kirchet in long windings (short-cuts), 
traverses the fertile basin of Hasli im Grund, and crosses the Aare 
near (2i/ 4 M.) Im-Hof (2054'; *H6t. Hof, E. & L. 2-2i/ 2 , pens. 
5-6 fr. ; Alpenrose, at the bridge, poor), the principal village in the 
parish of Innertkirchen , where the Susten (p. 127) and Joch Pass 
(p. 125) routes diverge to the left. 

Travellers from the Grimsel on their way to Rosenlaui and Grindel- 
wald may go from Im-Hof direct, by Geissholz, to the Upper Reichenbach 
Fall (comp. p. 170; enquire for the beginning of the path). 

The Urbachthal (comp. Map, p. 162), opening here towards the S.W., 
deserves a visit. The path ascends to the (Vz hr.) narrow mouth of the 
valley, is then nearly level for 1 hr., and afterwards mounts steeply to the 
(2 hrs.) Alp Schrattern (4940'; beds), where the path to the Dossenhiitte 
diverges to the right (see below), and to the (1 hr.) Maltenalp (6102'), at 
the foot of the huge Gauli Glacier. In 1 hr. more we reach the Urnenalp 
(7213'; rustic quarters). Thence over the Gauli Pass (10,260') to the Grim- 
sel, combined with the ascent of the Ewigschneehom, 8-9 hrs., fatiguing, 
but very grand (guide 35 fr. ; see p. 177). — Over the Bergli-Joch (11,290'j 
to Grindelwald, 16-17 hrs. from Im-Hof, very toilsome and hardly repaying 
(guide 35 fr.). From the Urnenalp (where we pass the night) we ascend 
the Gauli Glacier to the pass , lying between the Berglistock (p. 169) and 
the Rosenhorn, and descend the Grindelwaldfirn to the Gleckstein Hut 
(comp. p. 168). — The Dossen Hut (p. 170) is reached in 4'/a-5 hrs. from the 
Alp Schrattern (see above), by the Alps Illmenstein, Enzen, and Flaschen 
(guide from Meiringen or Im Hof 20 fr.). Thence to Rosenlaui, ascent of 
the Wetterhorn, and. to Grindelwald, see p. 170. All these expeditions are 
for adepts only, with good guides. (At Innertkirchen, Joh. Tannler, Joh. 
Moor, Joh. & Melch. Thbni, etc.) 

Beyond Im-Hof the road is at first level, and then gradually 
ascends, on the right side of the picturesque valley, being hewn in 
the rock at places and passing through two short tunnels. Running 
high above the rapid Aare, it leads to (3 1 / 4 M.) Innere Urweid (2464'), 
and then under overhanging rocks and through another tunnel to 
(IY4M.) Im-Boden (2933'), opposite the hamlet of that name on 
the left bank. The road then crosses the Aare and continues on the 
left bank to ( 3 / 4 hr.) Guttannen (3480' ; Bar , unpretending), the 
largest village in the Oberhaslithal, lying in a broad basin. The 
pastures are covered in every direction with heaps of stones, brought 
down by torrents. (Over the Furtwang Sattel to the Trift Glacier, 
see p. 128; guide, Andreas Sulzer). 

The new road ascends gradually and (l*/2 M. beyond Guttannen) 
crosses the wild and foaming Aare by the Tschingelbriicke (3733'). 
The valley contracts, and barren black rocks rise on the right. 
Huge masses of de"bris deposited on the less precipitous slopes 
testify to the power of avalanche and torrent. On the right the 
Wissbach Glacier discharges its waters into the valley. Crossing 
the Aare by the (l^M.) Schwarzbrunnenbrucke (3976'), the road 
ascends in long windings the Handegg Saddle, a pine-clad ridge of 
rock apparently closing the valley. It passes the (2M.) Restaur. 



1 76 ///. Route 52. GRIMSEL HOSPICE. From Meiringen 

zum Handeggfall (whence a view point at the bottom of the falls 
may be visited; adm. 50c), and 6 min. farther on crosses the 
Aerlenbach, immediately above the *Handegg Fall, a cascade of the 
Aare , which descends amidst a cloud of spray into an abyss, 250' 
in depth. Next to the falls of the Tosa (p. 308) and the Rhine (p. 26), 
this is the grandest waterfall among the Alps, owing to its height, 
its great volume of water, and the wild surroundings. The stream 
is so rapid that it falls unbroken halfway to the bottom, and in its 
rebound it forms a dense cloud of spray, in which rainbows are 
formed by the sunshine between 10 and 1 o'clock. A bridge crosses 
the Aare to a platform provided with a railing on the right bank, 
whence the best survey of the grand spectacle is obtained. The sil- 
very water of the Aerlenbach falls from a height to the left into the 
same gulf, mingling halfway down with the grey glacier-water of 
the Aare. On the left bank, a few min. above the fall, is the 
Hotel Handegg (4570'; R. 3, D. 4 fr.). 

From the Handegg, where the road terminates , we proceed by 
a good bridle-path. The sombre pine-forest becomes thinner, and 
even the dwarf-pines disappear a little above the Handegg. The 
stony soil is clothed with stunted grass , moss , and rhododendrons. 
About Y2 nr - from the Handegg the path leads over rounded slabs 
of rock, called the Bose Seite and the Helle or Hehle ('slippery') 
Platte, both worn by glacier-friction. Opposite them the Qelmerbach 
forms a picturesque fall. It descends from the Oelmersee (5968') , 
a lake on the mountain to the left , between the Gelmerhorn and 
Schaubhorn (1 !/ 4 hr. from the Handegg; rough path). 

The valley becomes narrower and bleaker. The path frequently 
crosses the Aare, now a mere brook, and vegetation almost disappears. 
Between the Handegg and Grimsel the only human habitations are 
the (1 hr. ) two chalets in the Raterichsboden (5595'; milk) , the 
last basin below the Grimsel, and perhaps once the bed of a lake. 

The rocky but well-made path ascends for a short distance 
through a wild defile , and then becomes comparatively level. It 
again crosses the Aare, turns to the left (where persons descending 
the valley must avoid the turning to the left), and reaches (1 hr.) 
the Grimsel Hospice (6160'; *Inn, R. & L. 3i/ 2 , B. I72, D. 
4fr.), originally a refuge for poor travellers crossing the Grimsel, 
and now often crowded with tourists. The small rooms are separated 
by thin wooden partitions. Carved wood by Hans Abplanalp. 

This desolate basin, the Grimselgrund, enclosed by bare rocks 
with occasional patches of scanty herbage or moss, lies 955' below 
the pass (p. 178). Beyond the gloomy little lake, which is destitute 
of fish , lies the Seemattli, a meagre pasturage, where the cows of 
the Hospice graze for one or two months only. The jagged mountain 
to the W., above the ravine of the Aare, is the Aynssizhorn (12,630'), 
the N. pedestal of the Firuteraarhorn (p. 177). The latter is vis- 
ible from a rocky hill 150 paces to the N. 



to the Rhone 01. FINSTERAARHORN. III. Route 52. 177 

Excursions from the Grimsel Hospice (comp. Maps, pp. 110, 162; 
guide, Caspar Both). The -Eleine Siedelhorn (9075'; 3 hrs.; guide 6 fr.) 
is an easy and attractive ascent. [The Grosse Siedelhorn ( 9450') , an inferior 
point of view, lies farther to the S.W.] The path diverges to the right 
at the bifurcation of the Rhone Glacier and Obergestelen routes. The last 
1 /t hr. is fatiguing, as the top of the mountain is covered with fragments 
of granite. The view is imposing. Gigantic peaks surround us on every 
side: to the W. the Schreckhorn, the Finsteraarhorn, and the Fiescher- 
horner; to the N.E. the Galenstock, from which the Rhone Glacier de- 
scends; to the S. the Upper Valais chain with its numerous ice-streams, 
particularly the Gries Glacier; to the S.W., in the distance, the Alphubel, 
Mischabel, Matterhorn, Weisshorn, etc. (comp. Dill's Panorama). — Tra- 
vellers bound for Obergestelen (p. 304) need not return from the Siedelhorn 
to the Grimsel Pass, but may descend on the 8.E. side of the mountain 
and there regain the bridle-path (guide advisable; comp. p. 178). 

To the PavillonDollfds, 3'/2-4hrs. (there and back 7hrs. ; guide 10 fr.)- 
The Aare is formed, to theW. of the hospice, by the discharge of two vast 
glaciers, the Unteraar and the Oberaar Glacier, which are separated by the 
Zinkenstocke. The Unteraar Glacier is formed by the confluence of the 
Finsleraar and Lauteraar Glaciers , which unite at the foot (8286') of the 
rock-ar§te named l Im Abschwung*, though for a long way below that point 
they are separated by a huge moraine, 100' high at places. At the foot of 
this arete the Swiss naturalist Hugi erected a hut in 1827, which in 1840 
had descended with the glacier to a distance of 1900 yds. from its original 
site. In 1841 and several following years the eminent Agassiz of Neu- 
chatel, with Desor, Vogt, Wild, and other savants , spent a considerable 
time here, dating their interesting observations from the 'Hotel des Neu- 
chatelois', a stone hut erected under a huge block of mica-slate projecting 
from the medial moraine. These huts have long since disappeared. M. 
Dollfus-Ausset of Miilhausen in Alsace next erected the Pavilion Dollfus 
(7676') lower down, on the N. side of the Lauteraar Glacier, now used as 
a club-hut (comp. p. 165, and Maps, pp. 110, 162 and 304). A visit to this hut 
is interesting and free from difficulty. A bridle-path leads from the hospice 
across the stony Aareboden to (l ! /4 hr.) the foot of the Unteraar Glacier 
(6160'). Here we ascend the rocky slope to the right by a narrow path and 
then traverse the rocks and debris of the terminal moraine. After about 
40 min. we take to the glacier, which affords good walking, pass several 
fine 'glacier-tables'', and cross the medial moraine and the Lauteraar Glacier, 
which is here often considerably crevassed. Lastly we ascend a steep 
slope to the (1 hr.) Club Hut, admirably situated on a rocky height over- 
looking the Unteraar Glacier. Opposite rise the Zinkenstocke, Thierberg, 
Scheuchzerhorn, and Escherhorn; in the background, above the Finster- 
aar Glacier, the Finsteraarhorn; and to the right of the Abschwung the 
huge Lauteraarhorner and Schreckhtirner. — We may continue our walk 
on the glacier as far as ( s /4 hr.) the foot of the Abschwung (see above), 
where we enjoy a full view of the majestic Finsteraarhorn. In the med- 
ial moraine adjoining the Lauteraar Glacier, nearly opposite the Pav. 
Dollfus, is a fragment of rock bearing the names of 'Stengel 1844; Otz, 
Ch. Martins 1845', inscribed there during the scientific observations above 
referred to. The rock, re-discovered in 1884, was then about 2650 yds. from 
its original site. 

The ascent of the "Ewigschneehorn (10,930'; 4'/4 hrs.) presents little 
difficulty to adepts. From the Pav. Dollfus across the Lauteraar Glacier 
to the foot of the mountain (8390 1 ) l»/2 hr., to the Gauligrat (10,260') 2 hrs., 
to the top 3/i nr - (comp. p. 175). 

The Finsteraarhorn (14,025'; guide from Hof orMeiringen 70, from Grin- 
delwald 90, from the Concordia Hut 60 fr.), the highest of the Bernese Alps, 
was scaled for the first time in 1812, then in 1829 and twice in 1842, and has 
pretty often been ascended since. Travellers from the Grimsel spend the 
night in the (7hra.) Oberaarjoch But (see below). The route then ascends to 
the Gamsliicke(c. 11 ,150') between the Rothhorn and Finsteraarhorn, and skirts 
the W. flank of the latter to the Hugisaltel (13,205') and the top (7-9 hrs.). 

Baedskeb, Switzerland. 15th Edition. 12 



178 ///. Route 52. GRIMSEL PASS. 

This is the most advisable route. On the ascent from Grindelwald, the 
Schwarzegy Hut (p. 165) affords night quarters ; thence to the top in 9-10 hrs., 
over the Finsteraarjoch, the Agassizjoch (12,630'), and the Hugisattel. It is by 
no means advisable to descend by this route, which is dangerous from 
falling stones. If the Eggishorn be the starting-point, the night is spent 
in the (5 hrs.) Concordia Hul (p. 305), from which we ascend to the summit 
in 8 hrs. over the Griinhornliicke (10,843'), the Walliser Fiescherfirn, and the 
Hugisattel. The expedition is for experts only, with first-rate guides. Even 
when the ice is favourable the ascent is difficult and very trying. 

Fkom the Geimsel to the Fi'eka dikect "ver the Nagelisgratli (8470'), 
5'/: brs. (guide 10 fr.), a fine walk, preferable to the Grimsel, see p. 117. 

From the Geimsel to Fiesch, oe to the Eggishoen (p. 306), over the 
Oberaarjoch , 13 hrs., fatiguing, but interesting (two guides, 40 fr. each, 
including the Oberaarhorn 50 fr. each). We ascend the Oberaar Glacier in 
7 hrs. to the finely situated and well-appointed Oberaarjoch Hut of the S. A. C. 
(10,430") on the Oberaarjoch (10,625'), lying to the S. of the Oberaarhorn (11 ,953' ; 
which experts may scale from the hut in l>/2 hr.). We then descend the Stu- 
derfirn, passing the Rothhom (11,315'), and then either cross the difficult and 
sometimes dangerous crevassed Fiesch Glacier to the Stockalp (p. 305) and to 
the Hdtel Jungfrau-EggishomQp- 305 ; 7 hrs. from the club-hut) or, preferably, 
descend by the Griinhornliicke (see above) to the Concordia Hut (p. c05), and 
thence cross the Great Aletsch Glacier to the Hotel Eggishorn. — Ovee the 
Oberaae-Rothjoch (10,906'), to the S. of the Oberaarjoch, not difficult. 
— Ovee the Stodeejoch to Fiesch, 14-15 hrs., difficult. The route ascends 
the Unteraar and Finsteraar Glaciers to the Studerjoch (11,550'), between 
the Oberaarhorn (see above) and the Sluderhorn (11,935'; a splendid point 
of view, easily attained from the pass in 3 /t hr.). Descent over the Studer- 
firn and the Fiesch Glacier, as above. 

From the Grimsel over the Strahlegg and the Finsleraarjocli or Lauter- 
anrjoch to Grindelwald, p. 165; over the Trifllimmi to the Trift-Hiilte, p. 127. 

From the Hospice the bridle-path, indicated by stakes, winds up 
the Grimsel Pass (7103'), connecting the Haslithal with the Upper 
Valais. After about 2^4 M. the road to Obergestelen diverges to 
the right (see below). Beyond the (*/4 hr.) summit (Hauseck), the 
boundary between Bern and the Valais, lies the small Todtensee. 

In 1799 this 'lake of the dead' was used as a burial-place by the Aus- 
trians and French. The former, with the Valaisians, had intrenched them- 
selves on the Grimsel, but were surprised by the French, whom Fahner, 
a peasant of Guttannen, had guided over the Nagelisgratli, and were driven 
back into the Valais. The French presented their guide, at his request, with 
the Raterichsboden (p. 176), as a reward for his services, but the government 
of Bern cancelled the gift a few months later. 

Those who have seen the Rhone Glacier (p. 303) may descend direct 
from the Grimsel to (2'/4 hrs.) Obergestelen (p. 304). The path diverges to 
the right (see above) V< br. before the top of the pass is reached, and con- 
tinues to ascend over a stony track to the height of 7-1U0', before it begins 
to descend. Splendid views of the Valaisian Alps and the St. Gotthard 
group, and also, at the beginning of the descent, of the fall of the Rhone 
Glacier. (In the reverse direction 2'/2-3 hrs. ; guide desirable in foggy 
weather, 4 fr.). The ascent of the Kleinc Siedel/torn (p. 177) may easily 
be combined with this route. 

From the pass our path leads to the left, on the N. side of the 
Todtensee, and descends the Maienwand, a steep grassy slope 1300' 
in height, carpeted with rhododendrons and other Alpine plants in 
view of the imposing Rhone Glacier and the Galenstock. The (3/ 4 hr.) 
Rhone Glacier Hotel, see p. 303. Thence to Brig, see R.81 ■ over 
the Furka to Andermatt, R. 33. 



179 
53. From Spiez to Leuk over the Gemmi. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 148, 180. 

14 hrs. Diligence daily from Spiez to (19 M.) Kandersteg in 6V2 hrs. 
(6 fr. 95, coup6 7 fr. 75 c.) ; also Omnibus daily in 5 hrs. (return in 4 hrs.). 
One-horse carriage to the Heustrich-Bad 5, two-horse 10 fr., to Frutigen 
10 and 18, to Adelboden 18 and 32, to the Blaue See 12 and 22, to Kander- 
steg 18 and 32, with use of the horse for riding to the Gemini. 30 and 55 fr. 

The Gemmi is one of the grandest and most frequented of the Alpine 
passes. Eoad to Kandersteg (19 M. from Spiez) ; thence over the Gemmi to 
the Baths of Leuk (5'/2 hrs.) a good bridle-path (guide unnecessary) ; road 
from Leuk to the Rhone Valley (2Va hrs'. walk down, 3>/2 up). 

Spiez, seep. 146; post-office nearthe rail, station, where carriages 
also are in waiting. The road, bordered with houses and fruit-trees 
forks after i/ 2 M., on the hill at the upper end of Spiez, the left 
branch leading to Faulensee and Interlaken (p. 146), the right 
to and Kandersteg. The latter (from which a direct footpath to 
Spiezwyler diverges to the left near the fork) leads via Spiezmoos, 
where it joins the road to Thun, on the right, and proceeds in a 
wide curve to (25 min.) Spiezwyler (Bar), where it forks again. 
To the right is the road to Wimmis (p. 1 43) ; to the left to Kander- 
steg. "We cross the ridge between the Lake of Thun and the Kan- 
derthal (on the left the Sigriswyler Eothhorn and the Kalligstocke) 
and proceed high up on the right side of the latter. To the right 
rises the Niesen , with Wimmis at its W. base , while in front 
are the snow-mountains of the Kienthal. After */ 4 hr. the road to 
(2 M.) Aeschi (see below) diverges to the left. In 3 / 4 hr. we reach 
(4 M. from Spiez) Emdthal (Inn),opposite the *Heustricli-Bad(2303'), 
on the left bank of the Kander, with saline and sulphur-baths, much 
frequented (board 372-6 fr. ; ascent of the Niesen, see p. 144). To 
the left a footpath ascends to (20 min.) Aeschi (see below). The road 
crosses the Suldbach to (1^4 M.) Mulinen (2265'; *Bar, moderate). 

Fkom Spiez Br Aeschi to Mulinen (5V2 M. ; one-horse carr. 6, two- 
horse 12 fr.), a much more attractive route than the above. Walkers ascend 
by a somewhat steep path in 1 hr. (or by the road, 4 M.) to Aeschi (2818'; 
*H6t.-Pens. Bliimlisalp, pension 5-7 fr. ; "H6t.-Pens. Mesen), a village on the 
height between the Lake of Thun and the Kanderthal, with a charming 
view of the lake, and visited as a health-resort. (The Faulenseebad, p. 146, 
is 1 M. to the S.E.) Descent to Emdthal or Mulinen, IV2 M. — From 
Aeschi to the Saxetenthal , a pleasant route (7'/2 hrs. ; guide unnecess- 
ary). Road by Aeschi-Bied in the Suldthal to the (6 M.) l/ntere Suldalp 
(3418') ; then a bridle-path, past a fine waterfall of the Suldbach, to the 
fli/4hr.) Schlieren-Alp (4675'); ascent to the left to the (I1/2 hr.) Renggli- 
Pass or Tanzbbdeli-Paas (6168') , between the Morgenberghorn and the 
Schwalmem; then descend by the Hinter- Bergli- Alp to (I'/m hr.) Saxeten 
(p. 154). The Morgenberghorn (7383') may be ascended from the pass in 
l'/2hr. (guide desirable for the unexperienced), or direct from Aeschi via 
Aeschi- Allmend, the Sonnenberg, and the Hutmad Alp in 5 hrs. The ascent 
of the Schwalmern (9137') from the Suldthal is more interesting, but fit 
for experts only, with guide; descent past the Sulegg (p. 154) to Saxeten 
or Isenfluh. — From Aeschi to Inteklaken by EraHigen (Stern), Leissigen 
(Steinbock) and Darligen (p. 145), a beautiful walk or drive of 9 M. 

The road once more forks, the right branch being the shorter. 

The diligence passes through ( 3 / 4 M.) Reichenbach (2335'; *Bar), 

12* 



1 80 III. Route 53. FRUTIGEN. From Spies 

lying to the left, at the mouth of the Kienthal (superb -view of the 
Bliimlisalp). 

A narrow road ascends the attractive Kienthal, affording fine views 
of the Biittlassen, Gspaltenhorn, and Bliimlisalp, to the (4 M.) village of 
Kienthal (rustic inn); cart road thence to (3'/_'M.) the extensive Tschingel Alp 
(3783'), 10 min. from which is the Pochtenbachfall with the interesting 'Hexen- 
ketsel, a kind of 'glacier mill'. Thence over the Sefinen-Furgge to Miir- 
ren (8-9 hrs.), and over the HohthurM to Kandersteg , see p. 159. To the 
E. the valley is closed by the crevassed Gamchi Glacier, the source of the 
Pochtenbach. Experts with able guides will find it interesting to cross the 
Gramchilucke (9295'), between the Bliimlisalp and the Gspaltenhorn, to 
the Tschingelfim (p. 159). We may then either cross the Petersgrat to 
Bied in the Lotschenthal (p. 159), or the Ttchingelpass to Kandersteg 
(p. 159), or the Tschingeltritt to Lauterbrunnen (p. 159). Distances: from 
the Tschingelalp to Steinenberg 1 hr., end of the Gamchi Glacier l'/2hr., 
Gamchiliicke 2>/2, Bied 6-7, Kandersteg 6, Lauterbrunnen 4 hrs. — As- 
cents from the Kienthal: Biittlassen (10,490'$ guide 25 fr.), from the Diir- 
renberg-Hiitle (2>/ 2 hrs. above the Tschingelalp, see p. 159), 3y 2 -4 hrs., toil- 
some, but repaying. — Gspaltenhorn (11,275'; guide 70 fr.), reached by 
the Leitergrat between the Biittlassen and the Gspaltenhorn, very diffi- 
cult (first scaled by Mr. Foster in 1869). — Wilde Frau (10,693'), from the 
Frauenbalm Hut (p. 181) and up the Bliimlisalp Glacier, 3 hrs., laborious. 

The road crosses the Kander (fine view of the Kienthal to the 
left), and beyond (8 M.) Wengi reaches — 

9V 2 M. Frntigen (2717'; pop. 4021; *Bellevue , with pretty 
view, R., L., & A. 21/2, B. II/2 fr. ; *Adler; *Helvetia; Hot.-Pens. 
Bad Fruligen, well spoken of), a village situated in a fertile valley 
on the Engstligenbach (p. 185), which falls into the Kander lower 
down. Matches are largely manufactured here. From the church we 
obtain a beautiful view of the Kanderthal, the Balmhorn, the Altels , etc. 
and of the Ralligstocke (p. 146). 

A still more extensive view is commanded by the Ueblenberg (4780'), 
to theN.W., I1/4 hr. above the village.— The Gerihorn (6995'; 3V 2 -4hrs.; 
guide not indispensable) is an easy and attractive ascent. — From Frutigen 
to Adelboden, diligence daily in 4 hrs., see p. 185. 

Our road crosses the Engstligenbach and turns into the Kander- 
thal on the right, between the Gerihorn on the left, and the Elsig- 
horn on the right. In front appear the Balmhorn and Altels. At 
the (1 M.) ruins of the Tellenburg we cross the Kander (walkers 
may follow the left bank almost to the Blaue See), and traverse 
the pleasant Kandergrund, finally ascending to (3 M.) Bunderbach 
(2880'), with the church of the valley. 

About 3 /4 M. beyond the Hotel Altels a road diverges to the right in 
8 min. to the "Blauer See, picturesquely embosomed in wood, and remark- 
able for its brilliant colour (best by morning-light). II6tel-Pension on the 
bank of the lake (6-7'/j fr.). Admission and use of boat 1 fr. 

Near (II/2 M.) Mittholz (3154') we pass the ruined Felsenburg ; 
we then ascend the Buhlstutz in windings (old road shorter- fine 
view of the Bliimlisalp at the top) to the district of Kandersteg, 
and passing the (3 M.) Buhlbad (3885'; *Inn, pens 41 V5 fr )' 
reach (3/ 4 M.) — 

19 M. Kandersteg (3840'). — Hot. Victoria, E., l., & A. 3, 
B. l'/s, V. 3V2fr.; '.\lpe.\ikjse, unpretending; *Hox. Gemmi, B., L.', &A. 3-i, 
D. 4 fr., in Etjyenschwand, l',4 M. farther on, at the upper end of Kander- 



Both tin rn 



Wh**' 



/&S^ ' "-• ">.- „ .. St/nnar/fimjju^ 

jF AlbristMjij GRliri™ * 

V 2,M a* Wunnpnixr 

2J ** Add- ; -' r 

Albristhmn ,•■-- V-, , 

• \ 



"«?*—J 






?Euhmiiiiei1~ 
Tsriuhten- 



I 






ini'liprn £ r-Stilerm J ' J.tfiill>qrh. Mf- . i 



-•••Wia/ 



i£R 



lomfer- V' ■* i V 



•frmkiiuutiri 
'Bonder Krwt 

Ximihoru 1 .. 






rjtenlanA 
r vuMbq. .l&s* , 




r:-;3? 



/ 



sliudnig 



juts 
-yam 
Milfiigli? 

Loluier R 



■fJfutscMbayi 



v irleh'tl 
i ; ^b'-it-lent/rat ± 
TschingfllocWif)- ^ 

nTn *™ '**-' .i, 

r./tqsttiflcitiinu 

Amniennrtil ' Ml) Enubcttili .•*ew,*rWri| 

iTie.dy •Bomcreii lu/s Mn 

• '--Mn-tni tJOtrtat-JMrrl , 



Jfr£rr//2v.ro 

v ■•:. ' ^/SJ■RHJpnbols^^^• 207 . 

Tried", 



S Lmil.horii Jzty VMlPrtplltlOrH %,j ".', ., 









Dimbn 



\ mssw 

«rt&=F«7te . ,..-/"■ 
i ; 'jQgggberg Siehen Sriirmal <^VJ otL . 

'■^oA* - ^ LaiiHiwmhV. a ^. .. ^Jntfijnm - 

/f2 JiOiilTjodpnliorrt i <yi " / "^* 

• ro "" *<» - : 4^H 

Thierbg."?™" £>Unm#*j. '"-01. 



SclUIWlltH'Il 



01.de la Plainr icluw-J. '."' «* 



RohibQrfwrtriii i«>i,iver9c Ntt r.vi> 5. 



liCdkTl 




e 1110 rle 



3OQ0 

Ir.Sr.i (in bun v in 



i* i'*Ji 
/ JI'Tubuiij) 

Of Ores 



Tnibi>hia/oc»,' ^v 

Mi w 
>Xttuae\- larxchi '. 



Columbtrv 




1 * <* 

/.Eteiq'iiorn eS 







' \ i Sul'/.honi '«,*' 



■^Bslilmbr! . *'<-H;H> \*«? ' ' 

* t ;; „- , \ '< %mM ■*■"'>'■»■>■■>»■>•<■ <^ 

iiSK_ Sctoewmp-atti Ober-Dimtlm - g\ . -« ' 



!^BSft«S«~7ii .„ "'fmvsrr™ ; „.. \ 

First, aia, ^ V 



, Xahlerslioni | <11Wa *"' 
_ •■ekflUMstutz 2 ™ .«' - ..,, 

fv - 1 *X • r;„..„ <?*«■- 'Jtol'ilituli > •rlnUuitts . 1> ■ ■ -V; >>il 

*-^- f : »\, ^^ i T> -a-—- '• ' t „ ; "^ Ospalti'hhnrn - 

it— W"¥ -*toz/^: BImnlisnl,*. ,.,.|'fV '«> " •■ ' 



S.ii.' 



Miherij-UL ' 



Fisistikl; 

'■v-.'-> s 4 fa. w*r 

' fGelliliorn S />> . , , 

O. S<f\,-, llnjKsv Gabel 

"oh 



liimli.salp.slod;-,:,, * ^.Hu-Uul/pchiniieJ-Fu-r, 

O.STliuiriiliorn-wan > ifi 1 *' m , • . „,S 

J* os/' ?>* TscluiieelliJm, 

PriimlpTilioni \T " w#%* 









■ M?\ \ll ■•""- ffiv/,,r/y IJir«liorn '" -;,*"„ A Grinde 

■y*Bg \ MtfC ...... «^.' Jlilmrw o Tclllsprt'iCuV-^ 

|r OfejaUishom .... " /x S-irk-linTii^ 4 ' ?i 

'\ SchdnhShl i h ftdrKllOl I> \ y 



i «u.,itLiAisiiorn .... jfi- K-irlrlini'iiJV" 

SchonbBhli K ftdriUlOlU^ 

JSalmlioj^n- // 1 ' ■ Tnuilxirhliorn 

AUell tw ^ y % SSchilUioi'ii 

"■' iindpi-h* % t)" 1 , Jn * -^a; (Uocta-nhsmii v mpuHam, 

Jtuiaein. « RaJiiUuirn ?! ^O^^H 

u .;>:i ,v% ? ^yiLonsrheitJtoss \ ■.i\./'f«g 



„ "'" ■ ^- (h-indel 

I % 




' ■ , *»%>' ri u &. .:''•■„ V-"''r/ier/r.l. , 

Kindoriiorn "' ^ OS^Tf j/vr/.r,,-.!/,,,,. ■ 

.PlnUmhoiqirr \ 

Chifmr/i, /] "■-- ■-*'' 



5BP: ■ 

w.v.> ^;_ a 






t,,,llu,, "V LS&A^.-^l ^ i. .7 ... •*£ -J 1 - \ WdAufc 



: ,.- Ifofjerct 



ToiTP) 



Violfslril! 



fluereggli 

EST"""'-' y> w * ^ ■rF<it,h$, ; ^ ••«v, J ..^v 



CnliiUt 



J v ■• 1 7 ' " s?>» 

'/Each A. / Tlfeprbatiiiliorii- 

"£r~~ J&Oicrmignon b, " s, 'L j /L _ \ , 



1: 130.000 




V.i^imt xDpl;('s,L('i|)7.i.J 



to Leuk. KANDERSTEG. III. Route 53. 181 

steg; Bar, 1/4 M. farther, near the foot of the Gemmi, same charges; "Buhl- 
bad, see above. — Guides (Jakob Imobersteg, schoolmaster ; Johann, Fritz and 
Christian Ogi; David Qyger; Christian Hari; Albr. Miiller; Joh. Kiinzi): to 
Schwarenbach (unnecessary ; 3, descent 2 hrs.) 5 fr. ; to the Gemmi (summit 
of the pass, 4, descent 2s/ 4 hrs.) 7 fr. ; to the Baths of Leuk (5 hrs.) 10 fr. 
— Hoese to Schwarenbach 10, to the Gemmi 15 fr. (the descent on horse- 
hack to the Baths of Leuk is prohibited). Carriages (return- vehicles 
cheaper) : one-horse to Frutigen 10, two-horse 18 fr. ; Spiez, 18 or 32 ; Thun, 
22 or 40; Interlaken, 25 or 45 fr. 

A grand panorama is disclosed here : to the N.E. is the jagged 
Birrenhorn ; to the E . the glistening snow-mantle of the Blumlisalp 
or Fran, the beautiful Doldenhorn , and the barren Fisistocke ; to 
the S.W., between the Ueschinenthal and the Gasternthal, the 
lofty Gellihorn. On the W. side of the valley is an old moraine. 

To the E. lies the interesting Oeschinen-Thal, containing the beautiful 
*Oeschinen-See (5223'), 1 M. in length. The path to it (l'/s hr. ; guide 4 fr., 
unnecessary ; horse 8 fr.) diverges to the left by the Hotel Victoria, as- 
cends for 50 min. on the left bank of the Oeschinenbach, partly through 
wood, then crosses to the right bank, and descends to the lake (new 
Inn, opened in 1893). Above the lake tower the huge, snow-clad Blum- 
lisalp, Friindenhorn, and Doldenhorn, from the precipices of which fall 
several cascades. A row on the lake is very enjoyable (to the gorge at 
the S.E. angle and back 1 hr.). Walkers may proceed round the lake 
to the left as far as the Berglibach, opposite the glaciers. Thence to the 
Oeschinenalp and over the Diindengrat into the Kienthal (guide to Keichen- 
bach, 20 fr.), see p. 159. 

The Blumlisalp or Frau, a huge mountain-group, covered on the N. 
side with a dazzling mantle of snow, and on the S. side descending 
in bold precipices to the Kandergletscher, culminates in three principal 
peaks. To the W. is the Blumlisalphom (12,042'), the highest ; in the centre 
is the snowy peak of the Weisse Frau (12,012'); and to the E. is the 
Morgenhorn (11,894') with the lower Wilde Frau (10,693'; p. 180), Blumlis- 
alpstock (10,562'), Bliimlisalp-Rothhom (10,828'), and Oeschinenhorn (11,450'). 
The Blumlisalphorn was first ascended by Mr. Leslie Stephen in 1860, 
the Weisse Frau by Dr. Both and Hr. E. v. Fellenberg in 1862, ffd both 
have frequently been ascended since. (Both toilsome, but very interest- 
ing; guide, 50 fr. for each. The night is spent in the Frauenbalm Hut on 
the Diinden Pass; thence up the Blumlisalp Glacier, 4-5 hrs. to the sum- 
mit.) — The Doldenhorn (11,965; guide, 40 fr.), first ascended by Messrs. 
Roth and Fellenberg in 1862 (from Kandersteg by the Biberg Alp in 8 hrs.), 
is difficult. — The Friindenhorn (11,030'; guide 40 fr.), first ascended in 
1871 by Messrs. Ober and Corradi (from Kandersteg by the Alp In den 
Friinden, 10 ! /2 hrs.), is also difficult. — Interesting hut toilsome passes 
lead from the Oeschinenthal to the Kander Glacier, across the Oeschinen- 
joch (about 10,4300, between the Oeschinenhorn and the Friindenhorn, and 
across the Friindenjoch (about 10,030'), between the Friindenhorn and the 
Doldenhorn. 

The "Diindenhorn or Wittwe (9410'; guide 20 fr.), ascended from Kander- 
steg by the Obere Oeschinenalp in 6 hrs., for experts only, affords a splendid 
survey of the Blumlisalp group. We may then follow the arSte to the 
Frauenbalm. Hut (see above), and descend thence to Kandersteg (13-14 hrs. 
in all). 

The wild "Gasternthal, from which the Kander descends in pictur- 
esque falls, deserves a visit ( 3 /4-l hr.). A good path, diverging between 
the Bar and Gemmi hotels, skirts the left bank and ascends steeply through 
the Elus (p. 188) to the upper part of the valley, bounded on the S. by the 
precipices of the Tatlishorn and Altels. Splendid fall of the Oellenbach. 
— Other excursions (guide advisable for the inexperienced) may be made 
from Kandersteg, to the E. to the (2>/2 hrs.) Fisi-Alp (6448'), and to the W. 
to the (2 hrs.) Allmen-Alp (5574'), both commanding fine views. 

From Kandersteg over the Bonderkrinden to Adelboden, see p. 186 



182 III. Route 53. GEMMI. From Spiez 

(guide 10fr.); over the LBltchen Pass to Oampel (in the Valais), see R. 55 
(guide 20 fr.) ; over the "Tschingel Pass to Laulerbrunnen, see p. 159 (guide 
30 fr. ; preferable in the reverse direction, as there are no inns in the 
Gasternthal, and the ascent thence is very long and fatiguing). — Over 
the "Petersgrat to the Liitschenthal (11-12 hrs. from Kandersteg to Ried; 
guide 40 fr.), a very fine route. We follow the T9cbingel Pass route to 
the top of the Kanderfirn ; then turn to the right and ascend snow-slopes to 
the pass on the Pelersgratt, (10,660'; splendid view). Descent through the 
Faflerthal or Tellithal to Ried (comp. p. ICOj. 

Beyond the Bar Hotel (p. 181), the road contracts to a well- 
kept bridle-path, and ascends. On the right is the Alpbach, issuing 
from the Veschinenthal, with several small falls. The path ascends 
in windings at the base of the Oellihorn (7530'), on a slope which 
terminates the valley, and then leads through pine-forest high 
above the Oasternthal (p. 188), affording fine views of the Fisistock, 
Doldenhorn, etc. On the right, 2^2 hrs. from Kandersteg, are 
the chalets of the Spitalmatte (6250'). To the E., between the snowy 
Altels (11,930') and the black rocky peak of the Kleine Binder- 
horn (9865'; adjoining which is the snow-clad Orosse Rinderhorn, 
11,372'), lies imbedded the Schwarz Glacier, drained by the Schwarz- 
bach. We next traverse a stony wilderness, the scene of a landslip, 
to the (i/ 2 hr.) Inn of Schwarenbach (6775'; R., L., & A. 374, B. 

172 fr-)> ■with i ts little lake. 

The "Balmhorn (12,180'), ascended in 5-6 hrs., over the Schwarz Glacier 
and the Zagengrat (toilsome, hut free from danger ; guide 30 fr.), affords a 
magnificent panorama of the Alps of Bern and the Valais, extending to 
N. Switzerland. — The Altels (11,930') is also interesting (5-6 hrs. ; guide 
25 fr. ; much step-cutting necessary when there is little snow). Those 
who are not subject to dizziness may combine the Balmhorn with the 
Altela (guide 50 fr.). — The Wildstrubel (10,670' ; guide 25, with descent to 
Leuk %) fr-)i ascended from the Gemmi over the Lammern Glacier in 4- 
4'/2 hrs., is fatiguing, but repaying (comp. p. 189). 

We next reach the (}/% hr.) shallow Daubensee (726'S'), a lake 
1 M. long, fed by the Lammern Glacier (see below), with no 
visible outlet , and generally frozen over for seven months in the 
year. The path skirts the E. bank of the lake, and, lOmin. beyond 
it, reaches the summit of the pass, the Daube, or Gemmi (7553'; 
*H6tel Wildstrubel, R.,L.,&A.3-3V 2 ,B.17 4 , D.37 2 -4fr.), atthebase 
of the Daubenhorn (9685'), commanding a magnificent view of the 
Alps of the Valais (panorama by Imfeld). The mountains to the ex- 
treme left are the Mischabelhorner (Balfrinhorn, Ulrichshorn, Nadel- 
horn, Dom, and Taschhorn) ; more to the right rise Monte Rosa, the 
Barrhorn, theBrunegghorn, the huge Weisshorn, the Zinal-Rothhorn, 
the Ober-Gabelhorn, the bluntpyramid of theMattfrhorn, thePointe 
de Zinal, the Dent Blanche, the Bouquetins, and the Dents de Vei- 
sivi. To the right of the Daubenhorn is the range of the Wildstru- 
bel, with the Lammern Glacier. At a giddy depth below lie the Baths 
of Leuk, and beyond them Inden (p. 184). Abundant flora. 

About 4 min. below the pass is a stone hut, on the brink of an 
almost perpendicular rock, 1660' high, down which, in 1736-41, the 
Cantons of Hern and Valais constructed one of the most curious of 



to Leuk. BATHS OF LEUK. Ill Route 53. 183 

Alpine routes. From this point to Leuk it is upwards of 2 M. in 
length, and nowhere less than 5' in width. The windings are skil- 
fully hewn in the rock, often resembling a spiral staircase, the upper 
parts actually projecting at places beyond the lower. The steepest 
parts and most sudden corners are protected by parapets. Distant 
voices reverberating in the gorge sometimes sound as if they issued 
from its own recesses. Unprotected as the path appears when seen 
from below, there is no danger, even to persons inclined to giddiness, 
if attended by a guide. (Descent to the Baths 1 ] /2j ascent 2'/2 hrs.; 
the descent on horse-back is now prohibited.) In 1861 a Comtesse 
d'Herlincourt fell from her saddle over the precipice and was killed ; 
a marble cross, y^r. from the top, commemorates the accident. From 
the 'Blaue Fluh' we see on the opposite cliff a ladder (now inaccess- 
ible) and other relics of an old guard house, up to the foot of which 
thegorgewas once filled with debris. The openings in the walls of the 
meadows at the foot of the Gemmi are used for counting the sheep. 

Baths of Leuk. — 'Hotel DE8 Alpes, R. & A. 31/2, B. l'/ 2 , D. 41/2, pens, 
9-11 fr. ; "Maison Blanche, with its dependance Grand Bain ; "Hotel df. 
France; "Union, R., L., & A. 3, D. 4 fr.; "Freres Brunner, D. 3 f r. ; 
"Bellevde, R.,L., &A.2,B. l'/2, dej.2 l /2, D.3i/2fr. . q dili ,. Tell, moderate; 
Rossli, unpretending. — Horse to Kandersteg 20, Schwarenbach 12, Gemmi 
8 fr. ; Porter to Kandersteg 10, Schwarenbach 6, Gemmi 4 fr. — Diligence 
(from the Hotel de France) to the Leuk station every forenoon in summer in 
2 hrs. (3 fr. 95 a); one-horse carr. 12-15, two-horse 25 fr. — English Church. 

Bad Leuk (4630'), Fr. Loeche-les-Bains, locally known as Baden 
or Ober-Baden, a village consisting chiefly of wooden houses, with 
620 inhab., lies on green pastures in a valley opening to the S., 
and watered by the Dala, 2920' below the Daube (Gemmi), and 
2590' above the Rhone. In July and August the baths are much 
frequented by French, Swiss, and Italian visitors. In the height of 
summer the sun disappears about 5 p.m. The huge, perpendicular 
wall of the Gemmi presents a weird appearance by moonlight. 

The Thermal Springs (93-123° Fahr.), impregnated with lime, about 
22 in number, rise in and near the village, and are so abundant that nine- 
tenths of the water flow unused into the Dala. They are chiefly beneficial 
in cases of cutaneous disease. They vary in strength and temperature, the 
Lawrence Spring being the most powerful. Their sanatory properties appear 
to depend more on the way in which they are used than on their mineral 
ingredients. The 'cure' takes generally 21-25 days. The patient begin# with 
a bath of half-an-hour, the time of immersion being gradually increased. 
From the 6th to the 16th day the whole body is usually covered with an erup- 
tion, which gradually disappears between the 18th and the 25th day. After 
three weeks the daily immersion is prolonged to 4-5 hrs., 2-3 in the morn- 
ing and 1-2 in the afternoon. After each bath the patient usually lies in 
bed for an hour. In order to avoid the tedium of a long and solitary soak- 
ing, most of the patients, clothed in long flannel dresses, sit in a common 
bath for several hours together, during which the water is not changed. 
Each bather has a small floating table before him, irom which his book, 
newspaper, or coffee is enjoyed. The utmost order and decorum are pre- 
served. Private baths may also be obtained (2 fr.). 

Both the Old and the New Bath House now contain separate 
basins for ladies and gentlemen, about 3 ft. deep. Spectators are 
admitted to the galleries, where they are expected to contribute a 



184 III. Route 53. INDEN. 

small sum 'pour les pauvres'. The loud and animated conversation 
of the patients , who appear to enjoy excellent spirits, is chiefly in 
French. Small tables or trays float upon the water, bearing cups of 
coffee, newspapers, books, and other means of passing the time. 
Both houses also contain shower-baths. All the baths are open from 
5 to 10 a.m. and from 2 to 5 p.m. 

Excursions. A walk, partially shaded, and affording a fine view, leads 
from the ' Kurpromenade' to the foot of a lofty precipice ('/s hr.) on the 
left bank of the Dala. Here we ascend by eight rude Ladders (e'chelles), 
attached to the face of the rock, to a good path at the top, which leads in 
1 hr. to the village of Albinen, or Arbignon (4252'). The fine view obtained 
from a projecting rock above the second ladder will alone repay the 
climber; but persons liable to dizziness should not attempt the ascent. 
The descent is more difficult. 

Excursions may also be made to the Fall of the Dala, >/2 hi-- ; Feuil- 
lerette Alp (5850 1 ), 3 /« hr., with fine view of the Altels, Balmhorn, and 
Gemmiwand ; Fluh Alp (671CK), 2i/ 2 hrs. ; Torrent Alp (6345'), i'/a hr. (For 
longer excursions guides should be brought from Kandersteg.) The *Tor- 
renthorn (9852'; 4V2 hrs.) commands a magnificent view of the Bernese and 
Valaisian Alps ; bridle-path nearly to the summit (horse 15 fr. ; guide 
desirable, 10 fr.). The route may be varied by descending across the 
Majing Glacier (guide indispensable). Travellers from the Rhone Valley 
save considerably by going direct from the town of Leuk (see below) to 
Albinen , and thence with a guide by Chermignon (6284') to the Torrent- 
horn, whence they may descend to the Baths of Leuk. The descent by the 
above-mentioned ladders, which is usually chosen by the guides, should 
be avoided, especially in wet weather. The Qalmhorn (8080'), near Cher- 
mignon , is also frequently ascended (21/2 hrs. from the Baths , by the 
Torrent Alp). Those who do not care to ascend higher will be repaid by 
a visit to Chermignon, which affords a capital survey of the Rhone Valley 
and the Valaisian Alps. — Passes : To the Lotschenthal over the Oitzi- 
furgge, or to Kandeksteg over the Gitzifurgge and the Lbtschen Pass, 
laborious (comp. p. 187). To the Lotschenthal over the Ferden Pass, 
interesting and not difficult (comp. p. 187). To Adelboden over the 
Engstligengrat (7-8 hrs.), repaying (p. 186). 

The road to Leuk crosses the Dala immediately below the Baths, 
descends on the right bank to (3 M.) Inden (3730'; *Restaurant des 
Alpes), and then Tecrosses the (I1/2M.) torrent by a handsome 
bridge (*Restaurant du Pont) affording fine views of the ravine. 

Pedestrians effect a great saving by following the old bridle-path 
to the left from the Restaurant des Alpes. The path rejoins the road 
before the bridge, and again diverges from it to the right, beyond the 
shrine of St. Barbara (2997'; guide-post), l'/4 M. beyond the bridge. By 
this^oute the walk from the Baths to the railway -station of Leuk- 
Susten takes 2-2>/2 (the ascent 3-372) hrs. — A direct carriage-road to 
Siekre diverges to the right from the Leuk road, Va hr. below Inden 
in the Dala ravine, passing through several tunnels, and gradually descend- 
ing the slope by Varen and Salgesch (to Sierre 2 hrs.). 

The road quits the Dala ravine at a point high above the Rhone 
Valley, of which a beautiful view down to Martigny is disclosed. 
About 3 M. from the Dala bridge we reach (2 1 /2 M.) — 

772 M. Leuk, or Loeche-Vilk ('2470'; pop' 1548; Couronne), 
a small town on a height 3 / 4 M. from the Rhone, with a picturesque 
old castle. The culture of the vine begins here. The road crosses 
the railway and the Rhone by an iron bridge, to the (li/ 2 M-) — 

9 \i. Leuk Station ('2044'; Restaurant), see p. "297. 



185 
54. The Adelboden Valley. 

Comp. Map, p. ISO. 

From Spiez to (W/z M.) Adelboden, Diligence daily in 6>/3 hrs. (5 fr. 40 c), 
at 7 a. m. (from Frutigen at 10.30). Carriage with one horse 18, with two 
horses 32 fr., from Frutigen 10 and 18 fr. — The verdant Adelboden Valley, 
watered by the Engstligenbach, is one of the most attractive upland valleys 
in the Oberland. The upper end of the valley, shut in by the Lohaer 
and the Wildstrubel , presents imposing scenery, while the village 
of Adelboden is a convenient centre for numerous shorter and longer 
excursions, and is much frequented as a summer-resort. 

Frutigen (2717'), see p. 180. The new road gradually ascends 
on the left bank of the Engstligen , crossing several impetuous 
tributary brooks descending from the wooded mountain-slopes on 
the right, and passes beneath the Linterfluh (slate quarries). At 
(5'/2 M.) Binderwald it crosses to the right bank by means of a 
bold bridge, and passes the inn oiSteg and the Pochtenkessel (2min. 
below the road, see below) to Hirzboden, where it returns to the 
left bank near the Hospital for the. Poor. It continues to ascend to 
(4V 2 M. ; 10 M. from Frutigen) Adelboden (4450'; *H6t.-Pens. 
Wildstrubel, R. ll/ 2 , D. 2-3, pens. 4-7 fr. ; Adler ; Pens. Hari; 
pop. 1579), beautifully situated on a sunny terrace, 400' above 
the Engstligenbach, with interesting old timber buildings and an old 
church containing mediaeval frescoes. Pine-forests in the vicinity. 

Excursions (guides, O. Fdhndrich. schoolmaster; Chr.Egger; Chr.Barl- 
schi; Joh, and Sam. Pieren, Sam.Fryd). Shokt Walks: To the N., through 
the Aeusser-Schwand to the ( 3 /4 hr.) Biitscheggen (4480'), at the mouth of the 
Tschententhal, commanding a view of the Frutig valley and the Niesen 
chain. The Hornli (4910'), i/thr. farther up towards the Tschenten-Alp, 
commands a still more extensive view. — To the (1 hr.) Koleren Gorge, 
in the Tschenten-Graben, with a curious grotto excavated by the Tschen- 
ten-Bach (entrance from below). — To the (l'/ihr.) Pochtenkessel, a deep 
gorge of the Engstligenbach near the inn of Steg (see above), 2 min. 
below the road to Frutigen. — To the (1 hr.) Wettertanne or Scherm- 
tanne in the Allenbachthal, via. Stiegelichwand, at the foot of the tremendous 
precipices of the Albrist and Gsiir. — To the Bonderlenthal and the Lohner 
Waterfalls (2 hrs. to the foot of the cliffs of the Lohner), a charming 
Alpine glade and a beautiful cascade. Farther up towards the Bonder- 
Alp are abundant rhododendrons. — To the (2 hrs.) 'Engstlig-Falls, a 
copious waterfall, 490' high, in two leaps (the ascent to the imposing upper 
Fall not advisable for novices). A fatiguing path (guide advisable, 6 fr.) 
leads hence to the Engstlig-Alp (p. 186). — Shoet Ascents: To the Kunis- 
bergli and HSchst (5380'), 21/2 hrs., via. the Bauert Boden, a picturesque 
Alp, with rhododendrons; the Hbchst commands a view of the Adelboden 
valley (guide 3 fr., not indispensable). — To the (2 ] /2 hrs.) Schwandfeld- 
spitze (6660'; good view), above the village to the W. (guide 4 fr., not 
indispensable). — To the (3>/2-4 hrs.) "Laveigrat (7952'; guide 6 fr.), via 
the Alp Sillern and along the Sillern-Grat; fine view of the Bernese Alps 
and the Vaud and Freiburg mountains. At the W. foot of the mountain 
are the Baths of Lenk. 

Longer Mountain-Touks : 'Bonderspitz (8360'; 4-5 hrs.; guide 8 fr.) 
and Elsighorn (7695'; 6 hrs. ; guide 8 fr.), two easy and interesting ascents. 
On the Elsigalp is a small lake, with stone-pines in the vicinity. — 'Albrist 
(9065'; 5-6 hrs.; guide 12 fr.), not difficult; fine view of the Bernese and 
Valaisian Alps. The ascent leads via the elevated Furggi-Alp (6835'), and 
an attractive descent may be made via the Hahnenmoot (guide 15 fr.). — 
Gsiir (8895' ; 5 hrs. ; guide 12 fr.), difficult, for experts only ; fine view of 



186 III. Route 55. RIED. 

the Bernese Alps. — Gross-Lohner (10,020'; 7-8 hrs. ; guide 30 fr.), a fatigu- 
ing ascent, adapted only for experts ; fine view. — "Wildstrubel (Grost- 
strubel, or E. summit, 10,670*; 8-10 hrs.; guide 30 fr.), an interesting glacier 
expedition, not difficult for adepts, via. the Engstlig-Alp, where the night 
is spent, and the Strubelegg (9610'). The summit commands an imposing 
view of the entire chain of the Valaisian Alps, the Mont Blanc gronp, 
the Lammern Glacier, the Plaine Morte, etc. The descent may be made 
over the crevassed Lammern, Glacier to the Qemmi (p. 182; guide 40 fr.). 
— Felsenhorn(9175'; 7 hrs. ; guide 15fr.), via the Engstligen-Orat (see below), 
a very interesting expedition, with a fine view of the neighbourhood of 
the Gemmi, and the Bernese and Valaisian Alps. — "Mannlifluh ^Ofr 1 ), 
via Rinderwald and Otlerngral (pass to Diemtigen, 7220'), 5Va hrs., also 
interesting. 

Passes. To Lenk a path, marshy at places, leads over the Hahnen- 
moos (6410'), passing a large dairy establishment near the top, in 4-5 hrs. 
(guide 8, horse 15 fr.). Beautiful view, during the descent, of the upper 
Simmenthal, the Wildstrubel, the Weisshorn, and the Razli Glacier. In the 
reverse direction l-l'/2 hr. longer. 

Fkom Adelboden to Kandersteg, an interesting route over the Bonder- 
krinden or the Allmengrat (83U0' ; 6 hrs. ; guide 10 fr.), with which the 
ascent of the Bonderspitz (see above) may be conveniently combined. — 
To Schwarenbach, somewhat fatiguing (8-9 hrs. ; guide 15 fr.), via the 
Bonderkrinden , L'eschinenthal , and Schwarzgratli (see below). — To 
Schwarenbach over the Engstligengrat, 7-8 hrs., with guide (15 fr.), a 
fine route. From Adelboden we ascend to the S., passing the Engsllig 
Falls (see p. 185), to the (3 hrs.) Engstlig Alp (6360'j, a wide Alpine basin 
at the base of the Wildstrubel (see above). We then cross the (2 hrs.) 
Engstligengrat, passing the serrated Tschingelochtighorn (8990'), and descend 
into the Ueschinenthali, with its little lake (far below to the left lies the 
Ueichinenthal). Then to the left, over the Schwarzgrdtli (see above), to 
(2 hrs.) Schwarenbach (p. 182); or we may traverse the Ueschmenthali 
Glacier, on the W. side of the Felsenhorn (9175 1 ), and descend through 
the Rothe Kumme to the Daubensee and Qemmi Pass. The route passes 
through a rich Alpine flora, with abundant Edelweiss. 



55. From Gampel to Kandersteg. Lotschen Pass. 

Comp. Map, p. ISO. 

12 hrs. for good walkers only, in fine weather. Guide from Ferden 
or Ried to Kandersteg necessary ' (15, from Gampel 20 fr.). The LStschen- 
thal itself is worthy of a visit. A steep and rough cart-road leads to 
Goppenstein; thence to Eied and Gletscherstaffel a bridle-path. 

From Gampel (2756'; Hotel Lbtschenthal) , on the right bank of 
the Rhone, 1 M. to the N. of the station of that name (p. 297), the 
road ascends the Lutuchenthal , or gorge of the Lonza. which is 
much exposed to avalanches. Mounting rapidly at first, it passes 
the chapels of (1 hr.) Mitthal and ('/ 2 hr.) Goppenstein (4035'). 
Beyond Goppenstein the bridle-path crosses the ( '/ 4 hr.) Lonza, where 
the valley expands, and leads to (1 hr.) Ferden (4557'; poor inn) and 
(i/ 4 hr.) Kippel (4514'; bed at the cure"s). It then ascends gradually 
by Wiler to (40 min.) Ried (41)50'; *H6l. Acsthorn, unpretending), 
finely situated at the N.W. base of the Bietschhorn (12,965'). 

Excursions. (Guides, Jos. Rubin, Jos. Kalbermalten, etc.) The Hoh- 
gleifen (Adlerspilze, 10,828'; b-7 hrs., with guide) is not difficult. Superb 
view of the Valaisian Alps from the Simplon tn Mont Blanc the W. 
Bernese Alps, the Lotschenthal and I.'lmne Val]. y . and to the E. in 
the foreground the huge Bietschhorn. — The Bietschhorn (12.965' • 9 hrs. 



LOTSCHEN PASS. III. Route 55. 187 

guide 60 fr.), first ascended by Mr. LeslieStephen in 1859 , is very fatiguing 
and difficult, and fit for experts only. The night is spent in the Club- 
hvt on the Schafberg (8440'), 3 hrs. from Ried. 

The following ascents may also he made from Ried: * Lauterbrunnen- 
Breithorn (12,400' ; 7-8 hrs., guide 3 ) fr.), not difficult for experts; "Bocken- 
horn (11,81V; 572-672 hrs.; guide 8 fr.), not difficult (see below); Tschingel- 
horn (11,748'; over the Petersgrat in 6 hrs. ; guide 2) fr.), not difficult; and 
Qrosshom (12,352'; 8 hrs.; guide 35 fr.), laborious. 

Passes. Over the Petersgrat (10,515') to Lauterbrunnen (12 hrs.; 25 fr.). 
fatiguing but highly interesting, see p. 160. — Wetterliicke (10,365') and 
Schrnadrijoeh (10,863'), both difficult, see p. 160. — Over the Lotschen- 
liicke to the Eggishom, see p. 306; over the Beichpass to the Belalp, p. 299. 

Over the Baltschiederjoch (about 11, 150) to the Rhone Valley (from 
Ried to Visp 12 hrs., guide 20 fr.) , interesting but fatiguing. — The 
Bietschjoch (10,633'), 8 hrs. from Ried to Raron, is a fine route, free from 
difficulty (guide 12 fr.). 

From Kied to Bad Leuk ovee the Fekden Pass, 8-9 hrs., with guide, 
a very fine route, and not difficult. At the Kummenalp (see below) the 
path diverges to the left from the Lotschen Pass route and ascends the 
Ferdenthal to the Ferden Pass (8593 1 ), between the Majinghom and the 
Ferden-Rothhorn. Descent over long stony slopes to the Fluhalp and through 
the Dalathal to Bad Leuk (p. 183). — Over the Gitzifurgge (9613'), 
9-10 hrs. to Bad Leuk, an interesting but laborious route. The pass lies 
to the S.W. of the Lotschen Pass, between the Ferden-Rothhorn and the 
Balmhom. Descent over the Data Glacier to the Fluhalp (see above). — Ovek 
the Resti Pass, 7-8 hrs., also interesting (guide 12 fr.). From Ferden we 
ascend over the Resti-Alp (6926'; two beds) in 4 hrs. to the Resti Pass (8658'), 
between the Resti-Rothhorn and the Laucherspitze (9400'; easily ascended 
from the pass in 3| 4 hr. ; admirable view) and descend over the Bachalp 
to the town of Leuk in 3-4 hrs. more. — To Leuk-Susten over the Faldum 
Pass (8675'), between the Laucherspitze and the Faldum-Rothhorn (9310'), 
or over the Niven Pass (8563'), between the Faldum-Rothhorn and the 
Niven (9110'; a fine point of view, 72 nr - from the pass), both easy. 

The Lotschen Pass is reached from Ried in 3'/2 nrs - by Weissen- 
ried, Lauchemalp, and Sattlegi. Another route ascends from Ferden 
(p. 186) to the N.W. , through beautiful larch-wood and over 
pastures, to the (2 hrs.) Kummenalp (6808'); then over rock, 
debris, and patches of snow to the (2 hrs.) Lotschen Pass (8840'), 
commanded on the W. by the steep slopes of the Balmhom (p. 182), 
and on the E. by the Schilthom, or Hockenhom (10,817'; ascended 
from the pass in 2*/2 hrs.; splendid view). We obtain the finest view 
on the route a little before reaching the pass itself: to the S.E. 
rises the Bietschhorn, to the S. the magnificent group of the Mi- 
schabel, Weisshorn, and Monte Rosa; to theN. are the rocky but- 
tresses of the Doldenhorn and Bliimlisalp; to the N.E. the Kander 
Glacier, overshadowed by the Mutthorn (9978'). 

The path descends on the right side of the Lbtschenberg Glacier ; 
near the end of the glacier it crosses to the left side and leads over 
the SchSnbiihl to the (iy 4 hr.) Gfallalp (6036'; milk), overlooking 
the upper Gasternthal. At the bottom of the valley we cross the 
Kander to (Y2 hr.) Gasterndorf, or Selden (5315'), a group of 
hovels (the first, a small cabaret). The Gasternthal was more thickly 
peopled at the beginning of the century than now ; but indiscrim- 
inate felling of timber has so exposed it to avalanches that the 
inhabitants have to leave it from February to the hay-harvest. Be- 



188 III. Route 56. LENK. 

yond a beautiful forest, which for centuiies has resisted the avalanches 
of the Doldenhorn, we next reach (1 hr.) Oasternholz (4462'), 
amidst a chaos of rocks. The valley bends here and soon expands, 
being bounded on the S. by the snow-clad Altels (11,930') and the 
Tatlishorn (8220'), and on the N. by the Fisistocke (9200'). Of 
the various waterfalls that descend the abrupt cliffs to the S., the 
finest is that of the Oeltenbach. 

At the end of the valley the road enters the (1 hr.) Klus, a de- 
file 3 / 4 M. long, through which the Kander forces its way in a series 
of cascades. In the centre of the gorge we cross to the left bank of 
the river, and beyond its outlet we reach the Gemmi route, and [}U 
hr.) Kandersteg (see p. 180). 



56. From Thun to Sion over the Rawyl. 

Comp. Maps, pp. It8, 180, 238, 296. 

22 hrs. Diligence from Thun to Lenk (33 M.) twice daily in 8 hrs. 
(9 fr. 75 c, coupe 11 fr. 80 c. ; one-horse carr. 35, two-horse 60 fr.). From 
Lenk to Sion (10 l /2 hrs.) a Bkidle Path, good on the Bern side, but rough 
on the other. Guide desirable (to Sion 16 fr. ; horse 30 fr.). The Gemmi 
is far preferable to the Rawyl as a route to the Valais. 

To (25!/2 M.) Zweisimmen , see pp. 190-192. The Lenk road 
crosses the Simme near Gwatt , and ascends the Upper Simmenthal 
by Bettelried, passing Schloss Blankenburg on the right (p. 192), 
to the prettily situated (3 M.) St. Stephan (3297'; Falke); then 
to Orodei, Matten, at the mouth of the Fermelthal (p. 191) , and 
(5 M.) — 

331/2 M. Lenk (3527'; *Hirsch, pens. 5 fr. ; *Krone, R. & A. 
2'/2, B - 1 &• 20 c, pens. 6 fr.; *Stern, pens. 5 fr. ; Kreuz), a village 
rebuilt to a great extent since a fire in 1878, situated in a flat and 
somewhat marshy part of the valley of the Simme. About i/ 2 M - t0 
the S.W, (path in 9 min.), lies the *Kuranstalt Lenk (3624'; R., 
L., & A. 4i/ 4 , board 6-7 fr.), with well fitted up sulphur-baths and 
grounds. The Wildstrubel (10,670'), with its huge precipices and 
glaciers, whence several streams descend, forms a grand termination 
to the valley. 

Exooksions. (Guides, Chr. and Joh. Jac. Jaggi.) The -Simme rises, 
4 M. to the S. of Lenk, in the so-called Siebenbrunnen , to which an 
interesting walk may be taken (4 hrs. there and back). Road by Oberriti 
(passing on the left an isolated nummulite rock with a 'glacier mill', 
and view of the Wildhorn) to (ly 4 hr.) Stalden (4232'), at the foot of 
the falls of the Simme. A path now ascends in front of the saw-mill, 
between alders, describing a curve on the right bank of the stream, and 
skirting a deep gorge with fine waterfalls. It passes two chalets, traverses 
pastures, and crosses the brook to (V« hr.) the chalets of the Rftzli- 
berg (4583'; Fridig's Inn, small). To the S., the 'Seven Fountains^ (4744'), 
now united into a single stream, i^sue from the perpendicular rocks 
Farther on, to the left, is the Upper Fall of the Simme, which is con- 
spicuous from a long distance. To the right rise the QMscherhorn (9672') 
and Laufboaenhorn (8878 1, to the left the Ammerlenhorn (STIC) 

The Oberlaubhorn (K570'), rising to the W. of the Riizliberg is fre- 
quently ascended from Lenk either by Trogegg in 3'/ 2 hrs or by Poschen- 



WILDSTRUBEL. III. Route 56. 189 

ried and the Ritzberg Alp (5710') in 4 hrs., with guide ; back by the Riizli- 
berg, Stalden, and Oberried. — The *Mulkerblatt (6355') is well worth 
ascending for the fine view of the Wildstrubel, etc. (2'/2 hrs.). Beyond 
the Kurhaus we ascend on the left bank of the Krummbach, (10 min.) cross 
it, traverse pastures and wood, passing several chalets, and mount the 
Beltelberg to the top. 

The Iffigenaee (6826'), 372-4 hrs., is also worth seeing. By the (2 hrs.) 
Iffigen Inn (see below) we turn to the right to the (1/2 hr.) Slier en-If fig enalp 
(5512'; refreshmts.). The path, steep and stony at places, then ascends 
to the (1 hr.) saddle which bounds the lake, and leads round its bank 
to the right (where edelweiss abounds) to the (>/4 hr.) humble chalet at 
the W. end. — At the base of the Niesenhorn (9113'), 3 A hr. higher up, 
is the Wildhom Club Hut (about 7880'), from which the Wildhom (10,705') 
is ascended in 2'/2-3 hrs. (laborious and fit for experts only; guide from 
Lenk 25, porter 18 fr.). The route ascends the moraine of the Dungel 
Glacier, and the steep and toilsome E. slope of the Kirchli (9157') to the 
top of the glacier, whence a gentle incline leads to the summit. Splendid 
view of the Jura, the Tbdi, lite. Leone, Mte. Rosa, Mt. Blanc, Mte. Viso, 
and particularly of the Plaine Morte on the Wildstrubel , and of the 
Diablerets. Descent, if preferred, to the S. by the Glacier du Brozet to 
the H6tel Sanetsch at Zanfleuron &h-3 hrs. ; see p. 239). 

The 'Rohrbachstein (9690'; 672 hrs., guide 15 fr.) is a capital point 
of view, free from difficulty. From the (4 hrs.) Rawyl Pass (p. 190) 
we turn to the left and mount to the (IV2 hr.) saddle between the Rohr- 
bachstein and the Wetzsteinhorn, and to the summit in 1 hr. more. Fossils 
are found here. 

The Wildstrubel (W. peak 10,666'; central peak 10,656'; E. peak 
or Grossstrubel, 10,670') is best ascended from the Rawyl Pass. From the 
Iffigen Inn, where the night is spent, to the Rawyl 2 hrs.; we then ascend 
to the left to the snow-arete between the Weisshorn and the Rohrbach- 
stein (2!/2 hrs.), cross the Glacier de la Plaine Morte, and mount the slopes 
of a snow-arete to the W. summit in 2'/2 hrs., and the central peak in 
V2 hr. more (from Iffigen 7'/2 hrs. in all). Guide from Lenk 27, down 
to the Gemmi 30 fr. — From the Razliberg (see above) a steep path as- 
cends the Fluhwande above the Siebenbrunnen to the (2 hrs.) Fluhseeli 
(6710') ; thence over debris, moraine, and the Rdzli Glacier to the W. peak 
(4 hrs.). — A third route (toilsome) ascends steeply from the (2 I / , 2 hrs.) 
Ritzberg Alp (see above; bed of hay) past the Laufbodenhorn (8878'), via the 
Thierberg and the Thierberg Glacier, and past the Gletscherhorn (9672') to 
the Rdzli Glacier and to the W. peak (8 hrs. from Ritzberg). Descent to 
the N.W. by the Ammerten Glacier, difficult; to the E. over the crevassed 
Ldmmern Glacier to the Gemmi (p. 182); to the N.E. over the Strubelegg to 
the Engstlig-Alp and Adelboden (p. 186). 

From Lenk to Gsteig (7 hrs.) : over the Trilttlisberg (6713') to (41/2 hrs.) 
lauenen (p. 238) , and thence over the Krinnen (5463') to (2'/2 hrs.) Gsteig 
(p. 238). Path bad at places (guide 12, horse 25 fr.), see R. 67. 

From Lenk to Saanen (p. 192), 6 hrs., path over the Reulissenberg or 
Zwitzer Egg (5636'), and down the Turbachthal (guide 8 fr.). — To Adel- 
boden over the Hahnenmoos (guide 8, horse 15 fr.), see p. 186. Over the 
Ammerten Pass (8032 1 ), to the S.E. of the Ammertengrat (8580'), interesting 
7 hrs., with guide). 

The Rawyl Route (at first a carriage-road) gradually ascends 
on the W. side of the valley to (IV4 M.) the left bank of the If- 
figenbach and the pleasant Poschenried-Thal. The road ends 2 M. 
farther on. By the (5 min.) Ifflgenfall (4483'), 400' high, [the 
bridle-path ascends to the right. After 20 min. we turn , above 
the fall, into a wooded valley, through which the Ifflgenbach 
dashes over its narrow rocky bed, and traverse a level dale (with the 
precipices of the Rawyl on the left) to the (V2 hr.) Iffigenalp 



190 III. Route 56. RAWYLPASS. 

(5253'; rustic Inn, dear). Here we turn sharply to the left (Anger- 
post), ascend through a small wood on a stony slope , skirt the face 
of a cliff, cross (10 min.) a brook, and reach (50 min.) a stone hut 
on a height overlooking the Simmenthal. We skirt the W. side 
of the small (3/ 4 hr.) Bawyl-See (7743') and reach (Y4 hr.) a cross (la 
Grande Croix) which marks the boundary of Bern and Valais and the 
summit of the Eawyl (7943'; 4^4 hrs. from Lenk), with a refuge- 
hut. The pass consists of a desolate stony plateau (Plan des 
Roses) , enclosed by lofty and partially snow - clad mountains : 
to the W. the long Mittaghom (8842'); S.W., the Schneidehorn 
(9640') and the snow - clad Wildhom (10,705'; p. 189); S., the 
broad Rawylhorn (9540') and the Wetzsteinhom (9114'); E., the 
Rohrbachstein (9690' ; p. 189); N.E., the extremities of the glaciers 
of the We isshorn (9882'). 

Beyond the pass the path is bad. It passes a second small 
lake, and (8/4 hr.) reaches the margin of the S. slope, which affords 
a limited, but striking -view of the mountains of the Valais. 
It descends a steep rocky slope (leaving the dirty chalets of Ar- 
millon, 6926', to the left), and (!/ 2 hr.) crosses a bridge in the 
valley (5970' ; a good spring here). Instead of descending to the 
left to the chalets of (i^hr.) Nieder-Rawyl(¥*. les Ravins, 5768'), 
we ascend slightly by a narrow path to the right, and skirt the 
hill-side. Then (25 min.) a steep ascent, to avoid the Kdndle (see 
below); 20 min., a cross on the top of the hill (6330'), whence we 
again descend to C/2 hi-) Praz Combeira (5344'), a group of huts ; 
and lastly a long, fatiguing descent by a rough, stony path, as- 
cending at places, to (i l fe hr.) Ayent (3400'; 3 3 / 4 hrs. from the 
pass ; Inn of the cure, good wine). 

The footpath from Nieder-Rawyl to Ayent, shorter by 1 hr., leads by 
the so-called 'Kandle' (i.e. channel), Fr. Sentier du Bisse, along the edge 
of a water-conduit skirting a steep slope 1300' in height. Being little more 
than 1' in breadth, the path is only practicable for persons with steady heads. 

The path, which now improves, next leads by Grimisuat (2894'; 
Ger. Grimseln) and Champlan to (2 hrs.) Sion (p. 296; lO 1 ^ hrs. 
from Lenk). 



57. From Thun through the Simmenthal to Saanen. 

341/2 M. Diligence twice daily (7 a. m. and 12.30 p.m.) direct to Saanen 
in S l k hrs. (fare 9 fr. 30, coupe 12 fr. 5 c.) ; another to Zweisimmen daily 
at 3.30 p.m. in 5 hrs. 40 min. — One-horse carr. to Weissenburg 13, two- 
horse 24 fr., to Zweisimmen 28 or 50, to Saanen 35 or 50, to Chateau d'Oex 
40 or 70, to Aigle 80 or 150, to Bulle 70 or 120 fr. 

The road skirts the Lake of Thun as far as (3 M.) Gwatt (Schafle; 
Post), where the Spiez road diverges to the left, and gradually 
ascends towards the Niesen (p. 144). On a hill to the right rises the 
slender tower of Striittligen (p. 143). At the bottom of the valley 
flows the Kander, in an artificial channel (p. 145). The road follows 



WE1SSENBURG. III. Route 57. 191 

its left bank, and then the left bank of the Sitnme, which falls into 
the Kandei near Reutigen, a prettily situated place. 

6 M. Brothusi (*Hirsch), with a picturesque old castle on the 
hill-side. (To the E., 1 M., lies the substantial village of Wimmis, 
p. 144.) The road passes through a defile (Porte) between the Sim- 
menfluh and the Burgfluh into the Simmenthal (locally called the 
Siebenthat), a fertile valley with numerous villages. 

8i/ 2 M. Latterbach (2303'; Bar). To the S. is the Diemtigthal. 

Feom Latteebach to Matten a shorter, but uninteresting route 
(7 hrs.) leads through the Diemtigthal. At Latterbach it crosses the Simme 
and follows the right bank of the Kirel (passing the village of Diemtigen 
on the hill to the right) and then the left bank to Wampffen and (2'/4 hrs.) 
Tschuepis (3763') , where the valley divides into the Maniggrund to the 
right and the Schwendenthal to the left. We follow the latter, which 
after s/« hr. again divides at Warttannen (3970). The path now diverges 
from the road, ascends to the W. through the Grimbachthal to the (2 hrs.) 
Grrimmi (6644'), a little-frequented pass, and descends through the fertile 
Fermelthal to (2 hrs.) Matten (p. 188). 

10 M. Erlenbach (2320'; * Krone, *Lowe, both unpretending), 
with well-built wooden houses. 

The Stockhorn (7195') is sometimes ascended hence by experts in 
i l /i hrs. ; better from Thun, by Amsoldingen and Ober-Slocken (*Bar, rustic) 
in 5 l /2 hrs., or from Blumenstein (p. 143) by the Wahlalp (new chalet, dear) 
in 4 hrs.; descent, if preferred, by the Wahlalp to Bad Weissenburg, which 
is reached by means of ladders. Splendid flora and grand view. 

I41/2 M. Weissenburg (2418'; *H6tel Weissenbourg, R. & A. 
2^2 fr.), a group of neat houses. 

In a steep defile, so narrow at places as almost to exclude the sun, about 
l'/4 M. to the N.W., lies the favourite ! Weissenburg-Bad (2770'; a drive 
of 20 min., for which 4 fr. are demanded). The mineral water, impreg- 
nated with sulphate of lime (70°; at its source 81°), and beneficial for 
bronchial affections, is used exclusively for drinking. The Neue Bad, 
situated in a sheltered basin, consists of two large houses (reading and 
billiard rooms ; post and telegraph office ; board 8, R. 2'/2-5, D. 3>/2, warm 
bath l J /2fr.); the Alte Bad, buried in the ravine 72 M. higher up, is infe- 
rior (pension 5-7 fr.). The baths, with the extensive pine-forests round 
them, belong to Messrs. Hauser. 

Feom Weissenbdeg to the Gcrnigelbad (6 hrs.). Attractive path 
through the Klus, passing the Morgetenbachfall, 200' high, and the Mor- 
getenalp to the (372 hrs.) Biirglen- Battel (6434'); then down (passing Bad 
Schwefelberg, l'/4 M- to the left) to the Qantrist Pass (5217'), with a charm- 
ing view, and over the Obere Gurnigel to the (l'A hr.) Gurnigelbad (p. 143). 

2OV2M. Boltigen(2726'; *H6t. Imobersteg, Bar, both moderate), 
a thriving village with handsome houses , is reached beyond the 
Simmenegg, or Enge , a defile formed by two rocks between which 
the road passes. Above the village rise the two peaks of the Mittag- 
fluh (6198'). To the left peep the snow-fields to the E. of the Rawyl 
(p. 190). The coal-mines in a side-valley near Reidenbach (2756'; 
% M. from Boltigen) account for the sign of the inn (a miner). 

Feom Reidenbach to Bulle , 24 M. , a new road. A little above 
Reidenbach it diverges to the right and ascends in numerous windings 
(which footpaths cut off) to the (6 M.) pass of the Bruchberg (4940'). It 
then descends gradually (preferable to the bad footpath) to (3 M.) Jaun, 
Fr. Bellegarde (3336'; H6t. de la Cascade , poor), a pretty village with a 
waterfall 86' high. (Path to the Schwarzsee-Bad by Neuschels, 3 hrs., see 
below.) [A cart-track to the S. ascends on the left bank of the Jaunbach 



192 III. Route 57. ZWEISIMMEN. 

to (IV2 hr.) Mlanlschen (4280' ; Inn), at the foot of the bare rocky chain 
of the Gastlose (6542'). Easy passes thence over the Grubenberg (6418'), to 
the S. of the Dent de Ruth (7674'), to (3 hrs.) Socmen, and over the Schliindi 
to (2'/2 hrs.) Reichenstein (see below).] We next traverse the beautiful 
pastures of the Jaunthal or Bellegarde Valley, which yield excellent 
Gruyere cheese (see below), and the picturesque DifiU de la Tzintre to 
(7>/2 M.) Charmey, Ger. Galmis (2957'; Hit. dn Sapin; "Marechal Ferrant, 
pens. 5 fr.), a well-to-do village and summer resort, charmingly situated 
(diligence to Bulle twice daily in l 3 /4 hr.). Fine view from the church. The 
road next passes Cre'sus, Chdtel, and the ruin of Montsalvens (rare flora), 
crosses the Jaun, and beyond Broc (Pens, de la Grue), the Sarine, and 
leads through wood to La Tour-de- Treme (p. 241) and (7'/ 2 M.) Bulle (p. 240). 
— From Cre'sus (see above) a pleasant route leads by Cerniat and the old 
monastery of Valsainte , and over the Col de Chisalettet (4659') to the (3</j hrs.) 
Schwavzsee-Bad (p. 205). On the Kalfe Sense, 4 hrs. to the N.E. of the 
Schwarzsee, are the sequestered but well-kept Baths of Schwefelberg (4573'), 
with springs impregnated with lime, whence a bridle-path crosses the 
Qanlrist Pass (p. 191) to (2'/2 hrs.) Bad Blumenstein (p. 143). 

The road crosses the Simme at (2M.) Qarstatt and turns suddenly 
round the Laubeggstalden rock, passing a fine waterfall. "We recross 
the stream and pass the ruined castle of Manneriberg to (3 M.) — 

25V2 M. Zweisimmen (3215' ; pop. 2210; *Krone, R., L., & A. 
33/4, B. II/2, D. 3 fr.; *H6t. Simmenthal; Bar), the chief village 
in the valley, with an old church, situated in a broad basin on the 
Kleine Simme. Pleasant views from the churchyard , and from 
Sehloss Blankenburg , now containing public offices and a prison, 
1/2 hr. to the S.E. (p. 188). 

The road ascends gradually for 5 M., crossing the Schlundibach 
at (3^2 M.) Reichenstein. (To Ablantschen,'see above.) In a pine-clad 
valley on the left flows the Kleine Simme ; the road crosses four deep 
lateral ravines and finally the Kleine Simme itself. At the top of the 
hill (4227'; Inn) begin the Saanen-Moser, a broad Alpine valley, 
sprinkled with chalets and cottages. A striking view is gradually 
disclosed of the frowning Rublihom (7570'), the barometer of the 
surrounding country (comp. p. 94), the serrated Qumfluh (8068'), 
the snow-fields of the Sanetsch beyond it, and lastly the huge 
Oelten Glacier (p. 238) to the left. Lower down we obtain a fine 
survey of the Turbach, Lauenen, and Gsteig valleys (p. 238). 

341/2 M. Saanen, Fr. Gessenay (3382'; pop. 3733; Grand 

Logis, or Gross- Landhaus; Ours, unpretending), is the capital of the 

upper valley of the Saane (Sarine). The inhabitants rear cattle and 

manufacture the famous Gruyere and Vacherin cheese. 

To Gsleig, and over the Col de Pillon to Aigle, see p. 238; over the 
Sanetsch to Sion, see p. 239. 

From Saanen to Chateau d'Oex (p. L»42) 7 M. ; diligence twice daily 
in l'/3 hr., by Rougemont, or Rothenberg ("Pens. Cottier, prettily situated, 
reasonable), the frontier between cantons Bern and Vaud, where the 
language changes from German to French, and Flendrvz. 



IV. WESTERN SWITZERLAND. LAKE OF GENEVA. 
LOWER VALLEY OP THE RHONE. 



58. From Bern to Neuchatel 194 

Twannberg; Isle of St. Peter; Chasseral, 194. — Chau- 
mont, 196. 

59. From Neuchatel to Chaux-de-Fonds and Locle . . . 197 

Tete de Rang; Col des Loges , 197. — Cotes du Doubs. 
From Chaux-de-Fonds to Bienne through the Val St. Imier, 
198. — From Locle to Brenets; Saut du Doubs, 199. 

60. From Neuchatel to Pontarlier through theVal de Travers 199 

Creux du Van. Ravine of the Raisae, 200. 

61 . From Neuchatel to Lausanne 201 

Gorges de l'Aeuse, 201. — Chasseron, 202. 

62. From Bern to Lausanne ( Vevey) 203 

From Flamatt to Laupen , 203. — From Freiburg to 
Payerne and Yverdon. Schwarzseebad; Berra, 205. — 
From Romont to Bulle, 206. — Signal de Chexbres ; from 
Chexbres to Vevey, 206. 

63. From Lausanne to Payerne and Lyss 206 

From Morat to Neuchatel. From Aarberg to Bern, 208. 

64. From Lausanne to Vallorbes and Pontarlier .... 208 

Lac de Jouxj Dent de Vaulion. From Le Pont to Le 
Brassus, 209. 

65. Geneva and Environs 209 

Ferney; Bois de laBatiej Saleve ; Voirons, etc., 219-221. 

66. From Geneva to Martigny via, Lausanne and Villeneuve. 
Lake of Geneva (North Bank) 221 

Divonne ; the Dole, 223. — Signal de Bougy, 224. — Gimel ; 
Col de Marchairuz, 225. — From Lausanne to Echal- 
lens, 227. — Hauteville and Blonay; the Pleiades, 229. 
— Excursions from Montreux : Glion ; Rochers de Naye ; 
Gorge du Chaudron; Les Avants, etc., 231, 232. — From 
Aigle to Villars; Chamossaire; Corbeyrier, 235. — 
From Bex to Les Plana , 236. — Baths of Lavey 5 
Morcles, 237. — Pissevache; Gorge du Trient, 237. — 
Arpille 5 Pierre-a-Voir, 238. 

67. From Saanen to Aigle over the Col de Pillon .... 238 

The Lauenenthal, 238. — From Gsteig to Sion over the 
Sanetsch, 239. — Excursions from Ormont-Dessus ; Creux- 
de-Champ, Palette, Oldenhorn, Diableret, etc., 239. — 
From Ormont Dessus to Villars or Gryon over the Pas 
de la Croix, 240. — Pic de Chaussy; Leysin, 240. 

68. From Bulle to Chateau d'Oex and Aigle 240 

Ascent of the Moleson from Bulle or Albeuve, 241. — 
From Montbovon over the Jaman to Montreux, 242. 

69. From Bex to Sion. Pas de Cheville 243 

70. From Geneva to St. Maurice via Bouveret. Lake of 
Geneva (South Bank). Val d'llliez 244 

From Thonon to Samoens. Valley of the Drance, 245. — 
The Blanchard. From St. Gingolph to Vouvry. Gram- 
mont. Cornettes de Bise, 246. — Excursions from Cham- 
pe>y: Culet; Dent duMidi; Tour Sallieres ; Dents Blan- 
ches. From Champery to Samoens, Sixt, or Vernayaz (Cols 
de Conx, de la Golese, de Sagerou, de Clusanfe), 247, 248. 



Baedeker, Switzerland. 15th Edition. 13 



194 

58. From Bern to Neuchatel. 

41 M. Railway in 13/4-2»/4 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 91, 5 fr., 3 fr. 66 c). 

Bern see p. 134; from Bern to (21 M.) Bienne see p. 12. 
(Miinsterthal Railway to Bale see R. 2 ; by St. Imier to Chaux-de- 
Fonds see p. 198.) Near the beautiful avenues to the S.W. of 
Bienne, the train reaches the Lake of Bienne (1425'; 9'/2 M. long, 
2!/ 2 M. broad). As the train skirts the \V. bank, we obtain a very 
pleasing view of the lake, enhanced in clear weather by the magni- 
ficent chain of the Bernese Alps. — Beyond (2772 M.) Douanne, 
Ger. Twann (*Bar), we pass a fall of the Twannbach. 

Interesting excursion through the picturesque gorge of the Twannbach 
to the (IV2 hr.) Kurhaus Twannberg (2867'; well spoken of), with fine 
view of the lakes of Bienne and Morat and the whole chain of the High 
Alps. Pleasant walk from Twannberg to (IV2 hr.) Macolin (p. 12). 

29 M. Oleresse, Ger. Ligerz. 

To the left, in the lake, lies the Isle of St. Peter ('Kurhaus), clothed 
with beautiful old oaks, vineyards, and fruit-trees, where Rousseau spent 
two months in 1765. (The so-called 'Sehaffnerhaus', in which his room is 
shown, is now a good inn.) Boat from Twann or from Ligerz, there and 
back, 4, from Neuveville 6 fr. A steamboat also plies from Neuveville 
to Cerlier and the Isle of St. Peter. — The lake having been lowered by 
the construction of an artificial channel for the lower Zihl, the island of 
St. Peter is now connected on the S. side with the smaller Kaninchen- 
Insel, and with the mainland near Cerlier (see below). 

3OY2 M. Neuveville, Ger. Neuenstadt (*Faucon; Trois Poissons), 
a pleasant little town (2368 inh.), the last in Canton Bern, is 
the first place where French is spoken. The Museum, near the 
station (adm. 50c), and the house of Dr. Oross contain interesting 
antiquities from the lake-dwellings and the Burgundian wars. In 
the latter also is Beck's collection of nephritoides. On the Schloss- 
berg (1752'), 20 min. from the station, stands a ruined castle of the 
Bishops of Bale (fine view from the top and on the way up), near 
which the Beon forms a waterfall (often dry in summer). 

To the N. of Neuveville rises the "Chasseral, or Gestler (5280'), in 
three terraces, studded on the S. side with numerous villages amid green 
meadows. Road from Neuveville via Ligni&res (2654' ; 'Hotel-Pension, 5fr.) 
to the (4 hrs.) top (Chalet-H6tel du Chatseral, with 20 beds, fair). The 
view from the (10 min.) signal, grander than from the Weissenstein (p. 15), 
embraces W. Switzerland, the Black Forest, the Jura, and the Alps. — The 
ascent may be made from JIacolin (p. 12) in 3'/2 hrs. ; from St. Imier (best 
route) in 2'/i-3 hrs. (see p. 198). 

The old town of Cerlier, or Erlach (Ours), lies opposite Neuveville, at 
the N. foot of the wooded Jolimont (1980'; 3 /t hr.), a charming point of 
view (Kurhaus, with pretty grounds and view-tower). The 'Teufelsbiirde' 
is a group of large erratic blocks on the summit. — Near Cerlier on the 
E. bank of the lake, at Lilscherz, and at Miirigen, farther N., numerous 
remains of ancient lake-dwellings have been discovered. 

Near (33 M.) Landeron we quit the Lake of Bienne; the little 
town lies on the left; farther E. rises the Jolimont (see above). 
341/2 M. Cressier, with its church on a lofty rock ; 35'/. 2 M. Cornaux. 
Beyond a tunnel the train reaches (38 M.) St. BlaUe , skirts the 
slope of the mountain, and beyond another tunnel affords a survey 
of the Lake of Neuchatel (1427'). which it soon reaches. The 




^ gS -^ . •.-ran LvxJ % 

jj^'^fc ■'. a ; '■ i ~ . 'r*.-.- 










#^ 



> WW 







g 






s 




£ S 



V 



O- 



O 



A 



£ 



"*A 



\ 





J J. Mm».«io w \ -3 "\~ Sj i I 1» /J 



> 



i 



UluMnlr. 



\ 8 

_, ..UNI'-,,:. 



1 ._, 




JUUPSTIK1 



NEUCHATEL. IV. Route 58. 195 

lake, the Roman Lacus Eburodunensis , the level of which has 
lately been lowered 6' by the enlargement of its outlet, is 25 M. 
long and 4-6 M. broad (greatest depth 500'). Near the N.E. end 
the Thiele or Zihl emerges from the lake. The smiling, vine- 
clad W. bank, above which rise the abrupt Jura Mts., affords an 
extensive view, from the Bernese Alps to Mont Blanc. 

41 M. Neuch&tel. — Railway Station (PI. E, 1) on the hillside above 
the town, 1 M. from the lake. Persons bound for the museum or other 
points in the N. part of the town may descend the path and steps to the 
left, but the main road leads to the hotels on the lake (Cable Railway 
opened in 1893). — Steamboat on the Lake of Neuchatel, see pp. 201, 208. 

Hotels. ; Gk.-Hot. Bellevue (PI. a; C, 4), in an open situation on the 
lake, R., L., & A. 4-5, D. 4-5, omnibus 1 fr. ; — *Gkand-H6t. du Lac (PI. b ; 
C, 3), near the lake, R., L., & A. from 3V2, D. 3V2, omnibus 3 /i ft 1 -; "Fadcon 
(PI. c; B, 3), R. 2-3, D. 2Vz fr. ; *H3t. du Soleil (PI. d; B, 3, 4), com- 
mercial, R. 2, D. 2 1 /2ft\; Hot. des Alpes (PI. e; E, 1), at the station, 
mediocre; Hot. du Poet (PI. f; C, 3). — Pens. Bokel (Villa Sitrville), 
well situated above the town, board 4-5 fr. ; Pension Knoet, with fine 
view, pens. & R. 5 fr. 

Cafes. Beer at the Brasserie Strauss, next the Hotel du Lac ; Bras- 
serie Oambrinus, on the harbour, etc Cercle <lu Musie, in the Palais Du- 
peyrou (p. 196; a club to which strangers are admitted). Several other 
cafea at the harbour. — Rail. Restaurant, D. 2V2 fr. 

Neuchdtel (1433'; 16,504 inh.), Ger. Neuenburg, the capital of 
the canton of that name (formerly a principality of the Orange 
family, under Prussian sway from 1707 to 1815, when it joined the 
Confederation, and finally given up by Prussia in 1857), is charm- 
ingly situated on the Lake of Neuchatel, at the base and on the 
slopes of the Jura. The modern part of the town, with its handsome 
houses, grounds, and *Quay a mile long,- lies on the lake, occupying 
a strip of land partly formed by the deposits brought down by the 
Seyon from the Chasseral. It commands a fine view of the Alps 
from Pilatus to Mont Blanc. In 1839, in order to gain building 
room, the Seyon was carried into the lake above the town by means 
of the Tunnel de la Trouee du Seyon, 176 yds. long. 

The Chateau (PI. B, 3), on the hill above the town, the oldest 
part of which, dating from the Burgundian period, was restored in 
1866, is now the seat of the cantonal government. Near it is the 
*Temple duHaut (ColUyiale; PI. A, 3; key at 6 Kue du Chateau), 
an abbey-church of the 12th century. The choir contains a handsome 
Gothic monument with 15 life-size figures, erected in 1372 by Count 
Louis of Neuchatel, and restored in 1840. There are also memorial- 
stones to the Prussian governor General v. Zastrow (d. 1836), and 
the reformer Farei (d. 1565). — The Place in front of the church is 
adorned with a Statue of Farel, erected in 1875. The terrace on 
the N.E. side of the church affords a fine survey of the lake and 
the Bernese Alps. The cloisters on. the W. side, rebuilt after a fire 
in 1460, were restored in 1860-70. 

The College (PI. C, 4), on the lake, contains a valuable natural 
history collection, founded by Agassiz (p. 177) and Coulon, a public 
library (100,000 vols), antiquities from lake-dwellings, etc. (open 

13* 



196 IV. Route 58. NEUCHATEL. 

Sun. and Thurs. 2-4). A little to the S. rises a bronze statue of David 
de Purry(A. 1786), a native of Neuchatel, who bequeathed 41/2 mill- 
ion francs to the town. The Halles (PI. B, 4), a picturesque Renais- 
sance edifice of 1590, stand in the neighbouring Placedes Halles. 

On the lake, farther to the N., beyond the College Municipal, is 
the new *Musee dbs Bbaux-Arts (PI. D, 3), a handsome Renais- 
sance building, containing an interesting Collection of Antiquities 
on the ground-floor, and the municipal Picture Oallery, a collection 
chiefly of modern Swiss works, on the first floor (adm. to each col- 
lection 60 c, free on Sun. 1-4 and Thurs. 10-12). 

The room to the right of the entrance contains portraits of Prussian 
Kings from Frederick I. to Frederick William IV., and numerous other 
reminiscences of the period of the Prussian rule. — On the landing of the 
staircase is a bronze bust of M. de Meuron, the founder of the museum. 
— "Picture Gallery. Room I. (right) Dubois, Autumn evening. Summer 
morning; P. Robert, Evening ;iir; Jacquand, Arrest of Rousseau in 1762; 
"Al. Calame, Monte Rosa; E. de Pury, Venetian fishermen; Berthoud, the 
Jungfrau; Jeanrnaire, Street at Sion; E. Tichaggeny, Draught-horses; Hagua, 
Heath landscape; Berthoud, The hunter's death. — Room II. Engravings 
and drawings. — Room HI. (left) M. de Meuron, Bridge of Corchiano; 
Jsabey, Sea-piece; E. de Pury, Lucifer; Robert-Fleury, Massacre of St. Bar- 
tholomew; A. de Meuron, Girl reposing ; Jeanneret, Chrysanthemums; L. Ro- 
bert, Italian street-scene; E. Qirardet, Cromwell reproached by his daughter 
Mrs. Claypole for the condemnation of Charles I. — Room IV. Small land- 
scapes, cattle-pieces, etc. — Room V. Sketches by Liopold Robert, and copies 
of all his works by his brother Aurele. — Room VI. (left) Ovillarmod, 
Watering horses; Jeanneret, The old toper; A. de Meuron, Betten-Alp; 
Coleman, Campagna di Roma; Imer, Evening on the lake-shore, Ruins of 
Crozant; E. de Pourtales, Valley of Meiringen; K. Qirardet, Old Franciscan 
monastery at Alexandria; Guillarrnod, Freight- waggon ; Berthoud, the Jung- 
frau; Bocion, Canal Grande; A. de Meuron, Pasture near Iseltwald ; Bocion, 
on the Riviera; Schuler, Floating timber; Berthoud, Chrysanthemums; Anker, 
Retreat of the French army under Bourbaki in Feb. 1871. — Room VII. 
(left) E. Qirardet, The father's blessing; Calame, Wetterhorn; K. Girardit, 
Huguenots surprised by Rom. Cath. soldiers; Aur. Robert, Church-interior; 
Leopold Robert, Brigants pursued by soldiers, "Fishermen of the Adriatic, 
"Basilica of S. Paolo Fuori le Mura near Rome after the fire of 1823, Ira- 
provisatore (unfinished); Qreuze, Girl's head; M. de Meuron, the Eiger, 
Waterfall of Tivoli; E. Qirardet, El Kantara (Algiers). — Room VIII. (left) 
Qaud , Harvest fire; K. Qirardet, Brienz; Anker, Sunday afternoon; A. de 
Meuron, Bernina Pass; Rose <T Osterteald, St. Gingolph on the Lake of Ge- 
neva; Landscapes by M. de Meuron; E. Qirardet, Maternal love, The little 
delinquent, etc.; E. van Muyden, The darling; Qleyre, Hercules and Om- 
phale. — Room IX. (left) Jeanneret, Polisher; Bachelin, Soldiers' canteen 
on the Lake of Thun ; Ch. Tschaggeny , Flemish bridal procession of the 
17th cent.; Qrosclaude, Deademona; "Jeanrnaire, Fir-tree and cattle; Schuler, 
Sledge in the snow; E. Qirardet, Gone astray ; Bachelin, Entry of the French 
army into Switzerland in 1871; Imer, Pond in the Provence; E. Burnand, 
The village engine; Anker, Pilgrimage to Gleyresse; E. de Pury, The fenc- 
ing-master; Tschaggeny, Mother and child pursued by a bull; A. von Bon- 
ttetten, the Jungfrau. 

Next the museum is an interesting 'Sepulcre Prehistorique', 
discovured at Auvernier in 1876. A little to the N. is the new Acad- 
emy (PI. E, F, 2). — Near the museum, i/ 4 M. from the lake is the 
Palais Rouyemont or Dupeyrou (PI. 1>, 2), with a pleasant garden. 
On the ground-floor is the Cercle du Muse'e (p. 195). At the back is 
the Musee Challande, a collection of stuffed Alpine animals (1 fr.). 



LES HAUTS-GENEVEYS. IV. Route 59. 197 

The Observatory , erected for the benefit of the watch-manu- 
facturers, is in telegraphic communication with Chaux-de-Fonds and 
Locl« (p. 198). The adjoining Mail, a grass-plot planted with 
trees, commands a charming view of the lake and the Alps. 

Neuchatel is noted for its charitable institutions , such as the 
Municipal Hospital, founded by David de Purry (p. 196), the 
Pourtales Hospital , near the Bern gate , and the Prefargier Lunatic 
Asylum, 3 M. from Neuchatel, erected by M. de Meuron in 1844. 

The 'Chaumont (3845'; "HStel de Chaumont, a large house near the top, 
3700', pens. 6-9 fr. ; H6tel da Chdteau , lower down , 3 min. to the S.E. ; 
Eng. Church Service in summer), a spur of the Jura, rising to the N., is 
the finest point of view near Neuchatel. The road to it diverges from the 
Chaux-de-Fonds road, l 1 ^ M. from Neuchatel, and leads to the top in IV2 hr. 
(diligence twice a day in summer in 2'/2 hrs., 2 fr., down in 1 hr., i>/2 fr.; 
carr. with one horse 10, with two horses 20 fr.). Near the hotels at the top 
are a chapel and a schoolhouse. The view from the Signal, 15 min. above 
the hotels (indicator of the Swiss Alpine Club at the top by Imfeld) embraces 
the lakes of Neuchatel and Morat, and the Alpine chain from the Sentis to 
Mont Blanc in the background. The afternoon light is best, but a perfectly 
clear horizon is rare. A charming view of the Val de Buz and the Jura, 
to the W., is obtained from the (1/4 hr.) Pre" Louiset. — An attractive route, 
following the mountain-ridge the whole way, via, La Dame and Chuff orl 
(guide advisable), leads in 4 hrs. from the Chaumont to the Chasseral (p. 
194). — Nearer the town there are pleasant wood-walks : to the Roche de 
VErmitage, Pierre a Bot, Gorges du Seyon, ChanUaz (p. 201), etc. — "Gorges 
de VAreuse, see p. 201; "Tele de Rang, see below. — Numerous Celtic 
remains have been found at La Tine, near Marin (Pens. Nussl^, moderate), 
not far from St. Blaise (p. 194). 

59. From Neuchatel to Chaux-de-Fonds and Locle. 

Railway from Neuchatel via Chaux-de-Fonds to (23'/2 M.) Locle in 
2V« hrs. (fares 5 fr. 25, 3 fr. 80, 2 fr. 80 c). This route, as far as Les 
Hauts-Geneveys, is very attractive; views to the left. 

Neuchdtel, p. 195. The train skirts the slopes behind the town 
and the castle, at first running parallel to the Lausanne line, crosses 
the Seyon, and beyond a tunnel of 748 yds. affords a superb *View 
of the lake and the Bernese Alps (to the S., the Mont Blanc). 3 M. 
Corcelles (1880'). The train ascends through wood; two short tunnels. 

7M. Chambrelien (2300'), beautifully situated almost perpendic- 
ularly above the valley of the Reuse (p. 199). Fine view near the 
Buffet. The train backs out from the station towards the N.E. and 
skirts a wooded chain of hills. To the right is the fertile Val de Ruz, 
with its numerous villages , above which rises the Chaumont (see 
above). 

10y 2 M. Les Geneveys-sur-Coffrane (2870' ; Hot.-Brasserie du 
Jura); then (12i/ 2 M.) Les Hauts-Geneveys (3135'; Buffet; Hot. du 
Jura ; Hot. du Nord), the highest point of view on the line, where 
Mont Blanc becomes very conspicuous. 

The -Tete de Rang (4668'; Inn), ascended in l l / t hr. from Hauts- 
Geneveys (by a lane to the left, 10 min. beyond the village), commands 
a magnificent and extensive view of the Jura westwards to the plateau of 
Langres, of the Vosges, and of the Alps from the Sentis to Mont Blanc 
and the mountains of Geneva. — A path leads hence along the hill to 



198 IV. Route 59. LE LOCLE. 

the Col des Loges (4220'; "H6lel a la Vue des Alpes), on the road from 
Neuchatel to Chaux-de-Fonds. View similar, but less extensive. Descent 
either to (l'/n 31.) Hauts-Geneveys or to (3 31.) Chaux-de-Fonds. 

The train passes through a tunnel, 2 M. long (9min.), under the 
Col des Loges to (16 M.) Les Convers. a solitary station in a rock- 
girt valley, formerly the junction for St. Imier (p. 198). Beyond a 
tunnel , s /i M. long (3 min.), under Mont Sagne, and a shorter one, 
we reach — 

18V 2 M. La Chaux-de-Fonds (3255'; 25,835 inh.; *Fleur deLys, 
R. & A. 3, B. II/4 fr.; *Lion d'Or; Balance'), an important watch- 
making town, lying in a remote Alpine valley, nearly as high as the 
top of Snowdon, with handsome streets and public buildings. If time 
permit, the traveller may visit the Church with its skilfully vaulted 
roof, and the College, containing the municipal picture-gallery (good 
pictures by Swiss masters), the library, etc. The town, which for- 
merly suffered from scarcity of water, is now provided with an ex- 
cellent supply from the valley of the Reuse (near Champ du Moulin, 
p. 200), by means of an Aqueduct, 13 M. long, built in 1886-7 by 
W. Ritter and Hans Mathys. 

From Chaux-de-Fonds to the picturesque "Cotes du Doubs, a pleasant 
excursion. The road leads past the "Restaurant Bel-Air to a Restaurant and 
Hotel , near the Combe de la Greffiere (view of the Doubs below) , then 
descends through wood (short-cuts for walkers) towards the Doubt at 
(5 1 /* M.) the charmingly-situated Maison Monsieur, and skirts its bank 
past the 'Pavilion de$ Sonneurs (Restaurant) to (2V4 M.) the prettily situated 
Biaufond. Then by boat to O/2 hr.) Le Refrain, and on foot through grand 
and wild scenery to the (2'/4 M.) picturesque Moulin de la Mort (refreshm.). 
Opposite are the curious Echelles de la Mort, used by the inhabitants. Here, 
and for several leagues farther N., the Doubs, whose lower course is 
also attractive, forms the boundary between France and Switzerland. 
Visitors may take a boat to (50min.) the Verrieres du Bief d'Eloz, then below 
the Fall of the Doubs continue either by boat or on foot along the French 
bank past (right) La Goule to P/4 hr.) Bief d'Etoz. Thence we proceed on 
the Swiss bank to the ( 3 A hr.) mill of Tlteusseret, ascend to the right to 
Belfond, and again descend to (1 hr.) Goumois ("Couronne, good trout), a 
village charmingly situated on both banks of the river. A picturesque 
road ascends hence to the E. in wide curves to (3 M.) Seigneligier (Cheval 
Blanc), whence a diligence runs several times daily to Tavannes and Qlo- 
velier (p. 10). 

A pleasant road leads to the W. of La Chaux-de-Fonds to (IV4 hr.) Les 
Pianchettes (Restaurant) and the (I1/2 hr.) Saut du Doubs (p. 199). 

From Chadx-de-Fonds to Bienne, 28 M., railway in l'/2-2 hrs. (fares 
4 fr. 50, 3 fr. 15, 2 fr. 25 c). The line passes the station of &k M.) Balte 
du Creux, and enters the industrious Val St. Imier, watered by the Suze 
or Schiiss. 5'/2 M. Renan; 8 M. Sonvilier, with the picturesque ruins of 
the castle of Erguel on a pine-ckd rock. 10 M. St. Imier (2670' ; 7114 inh.; 
H6t. de la Ville; H6t. des Treize- Cantons; Couronne), the capital of the 
valley, with considerable watch-manufactories. (Ascent of the C'hasseral, 
p. 194, by a bridle-path, 2>/2-3 hrs.) — HM. Villeret; I31/2 31. Cormoret; 
15»/2 M. Courtelary; 17 M. Corteberl; 18 1 /; M. Corgfmont. — 20 M. Sonceboz, 
and thence to (28 M.) Bienne, see p. 11. 

The railway bends suddenly to the S.W. — 21 M. Eplatures. 

23V2 M. Le Locle (3020'; 11,312 inh.; *H6t. Jt* TroisRois; 
Hot. duJura; Hot. National), famed for its watches and jewellery. 
(Chronometers at Ulysse Nardin's.^) In front of the Watchmakers' 



AUVERNIEE. IV. Route 60. 199 

School a bronze statue was erected in 1888 to D.J.Richard (d. 1741), 
founder of the watch-making industry in Le Locle and La Chaux- 
de-Fonds. The top of the Sommartel (4350'), 1 hr. to the S., affords 
a wide view of a great part of the Jura. 

From Locle to Mortead (Besancon), 8 M., railway in 35 min. via, 
Col des Roches (where an interesting road diverges to the right to les Bre- 
nets, 2 M., see below) and Villers-le-Lac, 1 M. to the S.W. of the Lac des 
Brenets (see below). From Morteau to Besancon 40 M. (see Baedeker's 
Northern France). 

Fkom Locle to Brenets, 2*/2 M., railway in '/4 hr. This narrow- 
gauge line ascends to the right, passing through a tunnel, to the station 
of Les Freles, whence it proceeds through wooded valleys and meadows. 
Farther on, the train skirts the deep gorge of the Bied (beyond which 
runs the line to Morteau, see above) and passes through two tunnels into 
the valley of the Doubs to the large watchmaking village of Les Brenets 
f/Couronne; 'Lion d'Or). From the station, we descend through the vill- 
age to the (15, ascent 20 min.) Pri du Lac , on the "Lac des Brenets , a 
lake 3 M. in length, which the Doubs forms above the waterfall. A boat 
(3 fr. there and back, more than 3 pers. 1 fr. each), or the small steam- 
boat which plies on Sundays (for large parties also on week-days) now 
conveys us down the dark-green lake, gradually narrowing between precipi- 
tous wooded sandstone rocks , and presenting a series of picturesque 
scenes. In 30 min. we reach the "Saut du Doubs (H6t. du Saut du Doubs, 
with garden, on the Swiss side; Sit. de la Chute, on the French side, 
both unpretending). Visitors should first order their meal on the Swiss 
side, and then cross to the French side. In about 6 min. from the French 
inn we obtain a fine view from a point high above the picturesque water- 
fall, which is 80' in height. A new road through beautiful woods, affording 
charming glimpses of the basin of the Doubs, leads back to (3 M.) Les Brenets. 

60. From Neuchatel to Pontarlier through the Val 
de Travers. 

33>/ 2 31. Railway in 13/ 4 -2'/4 hrs. ; fares 6 fr. 75, 4 fr., 2 fr. 80 c. (From 
Pontarlier to Paris by Dijon , express in 10 l /2 hrs.; from Bern to Paris 
14y« hrs.) This Jura Railway (comp. p. 197) also traverses a most pictur- 
esque country. The most striking points are between Neuchatel and Noir- 
aigue, between Boveresse and the last tunnel above St. Sulpice, and be- 
tween St. Pierre de la Cluse and Pontarlier. Finest views to the left. 

Neuchdtel, see p. 195. The line, running parallel with that to 
Yverdon (p. 201) as far as Auvernier, crosses the Seyon. Beyond a 
short tunnel under the "Val de Travers road we enjoy a beautiful 
*View of the lake and the Alps (comp. p. 197). The train skirts 
lofty vine-clad slopes, and crosses the Gorge of Semites by a bold 
viaduct. In the valley is Suchard's large chocolate factory and 
above it rises the small chateau of Beauregard. 

4 M. Auvernier; the little town lies below, to the left (1480'; 
Hotel du Lac, moderate). The train diverges to the right from the 
Yverdon line (p. 201), and as it ascends we enjoy an admirable 
view of the lake and the Alps. On entering the rocky and wooded 
ravine of the Reuse or Areuse we observe the lofty viaduct of the 
Lausanne line (p. 202) far below us to the left. The last glimpse 
of the lake down this romantic valley is particularly picturesque. We 
soon enter a tunnel, high on the N. slope of the valley, almost under 



200 IV. Route 60. FLEURIER. 

the station of Chambrelien (p. 197). Seven more tunnels, before 
the fifth of which is the station of Champ du Moulin (2020' ; H6t. 
des Gorges, trout) in a picturesque situation (hence to the Gorges 
de VAreuse, see p. 201). 

Artificial conduits supply Heuchatel and Chaux-de-Fonds (p. 198) with 
spring water from this point; the engine-house (2067'), '/< br. up the Reuse 
to the left, is interesting. The neighbouring house of lieutenant-colonel 
Perrier was, according to the inscription, once occupied for some time 
by J. J. Rousseau. A new footpath, behind the water-wheels, leads along 
the left bank of the Eeuse to the 0/2 hr.) interesting Saat de Brot. 

12 M. Noiraigue (2360'; "Croix Blanche), at the N. base of the 
Creux du Van. The valley, called the Val de Travers from this 
point to St. Sulpice , suddenly changes its character here , and the 
Reuse now flows calmly through a grassy dale. 

From Noiraigue a steep path ascends the Creux du Van (4807') in 
2 hrs., a better route than from Boudry (p. 201) or St. Aubin (p. 202), as the 
striking view, extending from Pilatus to Mont Blanc, is suddenly revealed. 
At the top is a basin, 500' deep, shaped like a horse-shoe, and nearly 3 M. 
in circumference. Within this is an excellent spring, to which the descent 
is steep and fatiguing but without danger. When the weather is about to 
change, this 'hollow of the wind' is filled with surging white vapour, 
which rises and falls like the steam in a boiling cauldron, but does not 
quit the basin. The phenomenon seldom lasts above an hour. A gun-shot 
produces a rattling echo , resembling a volley of musketry. Rare plants 
and minerals are found here. Simple refreshments may be obtained at 
the Ferme Robert, at the top. 

From (14y 2 M.) Travers (2392'; Ours) a branch-line runs in 
the bottom of the valley via Couvet, Mdtiers, and Fleurier, to Buttes 
and St. Sulpice (see below). Farther on are asphalt-mines on the 
opposite side of the valley. — 17 M. Couvet (2418'; *Ecu de France), 
a pretty town. Here, and at Motiers and Fleurier, excellent absinth 
is manufactured. 

The line again ascends the N. slope of the valley. Opposite, far 
below, lies M6tiers(- Travers ; 2415'; Maison de Ville) , where, by 
permission of the Prussian governor Lord Keith, Rousseau lived 
in 1752 after his expulsion from Yverdon by the government of Bern, 
and wrote his 'Lettres e'crites de la Montagne'. 

The "Ravine of the Raisse (affluent of the Reuse), with its picturesque 
rocks and waterfalls, deserves a visit. About i/j)I. from Motiers we pass 
a bridge and follow the brook to the right, ascending a pretty wooded gorge. 
In 1 hr. we reach a new path, leading to the top (35 min.). From this 
point, with the aid of a guide or a good map, we may ascend the 
Chasseron (p. 202). — Behind Motiers is the Grotte de Mdtiers, a limestone 
cavern, one arm of which is 3'/2 M. long. It may be safely explored for 
about V»M. (rough walking; swarms of bats). At the entrance is a waterfall. 

19 M. Boveresse, above the village of the name. In the valley, far- 
ther on, is Fleurier (2455'; *Poste; Couronne), with extensive watch 
and absinth-factories. Hence to the top of the Chasseron in 2'/2 nrs -t 
see p. 202. Beyond a long tunnel, we observe St. Sulpice (2557') 
below us, on the left, with a large Portland cement factory. Scenery 
again very picturesque. Two bridges and two tunnels. In the val- 
ley, 172 M - to the W. of Fleurier, the Reuse, which probably flows 
underground from the Lac des Tailleres, rises in the form of a con- 



BOTJDRY. IV. Route 61. 201 

siderable stream, soon capable of working a number of mills. Road 
and railway pass through the defile of La Chaine. 

The line attains its highest point, and then enters a monotonous 
green valley with beds of peat. At (25 M.) Verrieres Suisse (3060'; 
"Balance) , the last Swiss village , the French 'Army of the East' 
under Bourbaki crossed the frontier in Feb. 1871. The train enters 
France before reaching (26 M.) Verrieres - France (3015']. Near 
St. Pierre de la Cluse the scenery again becomes interesting. The 
defile of La Cluse, which railway and road both traverse, is fortified ; 
on the left rises the ancient Fort de Joux, which was blown up 
with dynamite in 1877 , overtopped by a new fort on a bold rock 
to the right. Mirabeau was imprisoned here in 1775 at the instance 
of his father ; and in 1803 Toussaint Louverture, the negro chieftain 
of St. Domingo, died in the fort, where he had been confined by 
Napoleon. 

"We cross the Doubs, which drains the Lac de St. Point, 3*^ M. 
to the S.W., and follow its left bank to PontaTlier. Pretty scenery. 

331/2 M. Pontarlier (2854'; 4675 inhab.; Hdtel de la Poste, 
Grande Rue, R. 2 fr. ; Hot. de Paris ; Hotel National; *Rail. Restaur., 
D.incl. wine3-4fr.), a small town on theDoubs. Luggage examined 
here. Opposite the station are the College and the Telegraph Office. 

From Pontarlier to Oossonay and Vallorbes, see E. 64. 

61. From Neuchatel to Lausanne. 

46V2 M. Railway in 2-21/2 hrs.; fares 7 fr. 80, 5fr. 50, 3fr. 90 c. (to Geneva 
in 2 3 /4-5hrs.; fares 12 fr. 70, 8fr. 90, 6fr. 35 c.). — Steamboat on the Lake 
of Neuch&tel between Neuchatel and Morat (p. 208), and between Neuchatel 
and Estavayer only (twice daily in l'/2 hr. , corresponding with the train 
to Freiburg, p. 205). 

Neuchatel, seep. 195. Route to (4 M.J Auvernier, seep. 199. 
The Lausanne train, diverging from the Pontarlier line, quits the 
lake, to which it returns beyond Bevaix (p. 202). 5M. Colombier 
(Hotel du Jardin; Cheval Blanc), with an old chateau converted into 
a barrack, and beautiful avenues, yields excellent white wine. (On 
the lake, l 1 ^ M. to the E., is the Chanelaz Hydropathic, with pleas- 
ure-grounds and charming views; pens. 6-8 fr.) — 6 M. Boudry 
(1693'); the little town (1542'; Maison de Ville), the birthplace of 
Marat, lies below the line, on the right bank of the Areuse, 1 M. from 
the station. 

The 'Gorges de 1' Areuse are interesting. Leaving stat. Boudry, we cross 
the line (passing the viaduct on the left) and pass through the village of Troit- 
rodi. Before the last house we turn to the left, between walls, and descend 
in 20 min. to the entrance to the ravine. A path, hewn in the rock at 
places , affords striking views of the narrow, wooded gorge, above which 
the rocks and trees frequently meet. In 5 min. we come to a path to the 
left, leading to the Chalet aux Clies (donation for the use of the path 
expected). In 20 min. more we observe the Orotte aux Fours, above us, 
on the right, with a large entrance (easily accessible). Farther on, the Pon- 
tarlier railway runs high above the gorge, on the right, and still higher is 
the carriage-road. We next reach (55 min.; 1 hr. 40 min. from Boudry 
station) the Champ du Moulin, picturesquely situated (station for several 



202 IV. Route 61. YVERDON. 

trains, p. 200). — Perhaps a more convenient way of making this excursion 
is to take the train to Champ du Moulin and then to walk down through 
the Gorges to Boudry. Another path descends to the Gorges from Chanibre- 
lien (p. 197). Noiraigue (p. 200) is 3 M. distant. 

From Boudry to the Creux du Van (p. 200), 3 hrs. 

Beyond Boudry the train is carried by a great viaduct over the deep 
valley of the Areuse, or Reuse. The stream falls into the lake near 
Cortaillod, where the best red wine in the canton is produced. 9M. 
Bevaix (1568'). The line returns to the bank of the lake, which it 
follows to Yverdon. 11 M. Oorgier-St. Aubin; 14 M. Vaumarcus, 
with the fine well-preserved castle of that name. At (16 M.) Con- 
cise (1453' ; Ecu de France) many traces of ancient lake-villages 
have been found. To the right, above, lies Corcelles, near which 
are three blocks of granite, 5' to 8' in height, placed in the form of 
a triangle, but not visible from the line. They are said to commem- 
orate the battle of Grandson, but are more probably of Celtic origin. 
18 M. Onnens-Bonvillars. 

21 M. Grandson (Lion d'Or; Croix Rouge; Hotel de la Oare), 
a picturesque little town (1709 inh.) probably of Roman origin, has 
a handsome old Chateau of Baron de Blonay , now restored. (*View 
from the terrace.) The old Church, Romanesque with a Gothic 
choir, which once belonged to a Benedictine abbey, contains columns 
with interesting capitals. 

The chateau of Grandson, originally the seat of a family of that name 
and said to have been built about the year 1000, was taken by the Bern- 
ese in 1475, and in Feb. 1476 captured by Charles the Bold, Duke of 
Burgundy, who, contrary to the treaty, caused the Bernese garrison to be 
hanged or drowned. A few weeks later, on 3rd March , 1476, the Duke 
was surprised by the advancing Confederates near Grandson, and notwith- 
standing his numerical superiority (50,000 Burgundians, it is said, against 
20,000 Swiss) was utterly defeated. Part of the enormous booty captured 
on the occasion is still preserved in the Swiss arsenals. 

The train skirts the S.W. end of the lake, and crosses the Thiile 
near its influx into the lake. 

24 M. Yverdon (1433'; 6330 inh. ; *H6t. de Londres, R. & A. 
2 , /2i D. 3 fr. ; Paon), the Roman Eburodunum, is a thriving little 
town on the Thiele, with pleasant promenades and fine views. The 
Ch&teau, erected by Duke Conrad of Zahringen in 1135, and the 
seat of Pestalozzi's famous school in 1805-25, is now occupied by 
the town-schools , a library , and a museum of Celtic, Roman , and 
other antiquities. Near the churchyard are some mural fragments 
of a Roman fort. To the S.E. (3/ 4 M.) are the Bains d'Yverdon, 
with a sulphur spring and a KuThaus (pens. 7 fr.), halfway to 
which are the Pension La Prairie and the Pension Le Bosquet, both 
with gardens (pens. 5-6 fr.). 

The Chasseron (5285') , a height of the Jura, N.W. of Yverdon, com- 
mands a fine view. Diligence twice daily in 3y< hrs. to Ste. Croix (3635'; 
Pens. Jacques; l'/-i-2 hrs. from the top), noted I'ur its musical boxes. The 
descent may be made, if desired, by a good road to (l»/ 2 hr.) Fleurier 
(p. 200). — The Aiguille de Beaulmes (5128') and Mont Suchet (5236') are 
also fine points (3'/«-4 hrs.; comp. p. 209). 

From Yverdon to Pan erne and Freiburg, see p. 205. 



FREIBURG. IV. Route 62. 203 

The train quits the lake, and enters the broad valley of the ThiUe, 
a stream formed by the confluence of the Orbe (p. 208) and the Ta- 
lent near stat. Ependes. To the W. rises the long chain of the Jura : 
the Aiguille de Beaulmes and Mont Suchet (p. 202), between which 
in the distance are the Mont d'Or, the Dent de Vaulion (p. 209), 
and Mont Tendre. 

30 M. Chavornay-Orbe (the small town of Orbe lies IV2M. to the 
N.~W. ; omnibus at the station; p. 208). Two tunnels under the 
Maurernont. Then (33^2 M.) Eclepens (p. 208). The train en- 
ters the wooded valley of the Venoge, which is connected with the 
Thiele by the Canal d'Entreroches, passes La Sarraz (p. 208), and 
stops at — 

38 M. Penthalaz-Cossonay (1850'; H6t. des Orands Moulins); 
the little town of Cossonay lies on. a wooded hill to the right. — 
To Vallorbes and Pontarlier, see R. 64. 

Beyond (43 M.) Bussigny, to the S., appear the mountains of 
Savoy. 4472 M. Renens. 

46Y2 M. Lausanne, see p. 225. 

62. From Bern to Lausanne f Vevey). 

61 M. Railway to Freiburg in I-I1/4 hr. (3fr. 35, 2fr. 35 c, lfr. 70 c. ; to 
Chexbres in 3-3V2 hrs. (8fr. 95, 6 fr. 30, 4fr. 50 c); to Lausanne in 3V4-4 hrs. 
(10 fr. 20, 7fr. 15, 5fr. 10c); to Geneva in 5y 2 -6y 2 hrs. (16 fr. 55, 11 fr. 60, 
8fr. 30 c). — Travellers to Vevey had better alight at Chexbres (eomp.p. 206). 
Best views on the left. 

Bern, see p. 134. To the left we obtain a glimpse of the Bernese 
Alps, and the mountains of the Simme and Sarine valleys, among 
which the serrated Brenleire (7743') and Folie"rant (7690') are con- 
spicuous ; more to the right is the Mole"son ; to the left, the pyramidal 
Niesen. This view is soon hidden by wood. 3 M. Bumplitz; 6 M. 
Thdrishaw. The train descends and crosses the Sense, the boundary 
between the cantons of Bern and Freiburg. 9 M. Flamatt. 

To the W. (5'/2 M.; diligence thrice daily in 50min., via Neuenegg) lies 
Laupen (Bar), a small town with an ancient chateau, at the confluence of the 
Sense and the Sarine, famed in the annals of Switzerland for a victory gained 
in 1339 by the Bernese under Rudolph von Erlach (p. 137) over the army of 
Freiburg and the allied nobility of the TJechtland, Aargau, Savoy, and Bur- 
gundy. The anniversary is kept every five years. The battlefield on the 
Bramberg , '/a M. to the N. of the road to Neuenegg, is marked by a 
monument, erected in 1829. 

Beyond the next tunnel we enter the green valley of the 
Taferna-Bach. 12!/ 2 M. Schmitten; 16 M. Dudingen (Fr. Guiri), 
where we cross a viaduct, 100' high. Beyond Balliswyl, which lies 
to the left, the train crosses the profound gorge of the Saane or 
Sarine by means of the huge iron Viadue de Oranfey, 250' in height. 

20 M. Freiburg. — Hotel Suisse, R., L., & A. 3-4 fr., well spoken 
of; Faucon; — Hot. de l'Autruche, Hot. de la Tete-Noire, Ckoix 
Blanche, 2nd class, plain. Bail. Restaurant. 

Freiburg (2100'; pop. 12,239), Fr. Fribourg, the capital of Can- 
tonFreiburg, the ancient Uechtland, founded in 11 78 by Berthold IV. 



204 IV. Route 62. FREIBURG. From Bern 

of Zahringen, stands like Bern on a rocky height nearly surrounded by 
the Sarine(Saane). Most of the inhabitants speak French. The town 
lies on the boundary between the two tongues, and German is still 
spoken in the lower quarters. 

As the picturesque situation of the town and its bridges is not seen from 
the railway-station, the following walk of IV2 hr. is recommended. From 
the station past the little Protestant church and through the town to the 
Hotel de Ville and the church of St. Nicholas; then, to the left, cross the 
Great Suspension Bridge (p. 205), and ascend the road to the right to the Pont 
de Ootteron ; cross this, and follow a road leading to the hamlet of Bour- 
guillon. After 6 min. we take a short-cut to the right, regain the road, and 
descend to the right, through the old Porte de Bourgtiillon, to the pictur- 
esquely situated Loretio Chapel (fine view of the town). Near a small 
chapel, farther on, we obtain to the left a view of the valley of the Sarine, 
which has been converted into a reservoir to supply the town. A path 
with steps descends from this point to the lower town , turning to the 
left at the fountain and passing the church of St. John (founded by the 
knights of Malta), beyond which we cross the Sarine by a stone bridge 
(Pont St. Jean), and either ascend by the steps to the Hotel de Ville, or 
follow the road to the left leading to the station. 

The Gothic "Church of St. Nicholas, founded in 1283, and 
rebuilt in the 15th cent., has been recently restored. The hand- 
some tower, 280' high, erected in 1470-92, has a portal adorned 
with curious reliefs. 

The "Organ, one of the finest in Europe, with 67 stops and 7800 
pipes, some of them 32' in length, was built by Al. Mooser (d. 1839), 
whose bust has been placed under the instrument to the right. Perform- 
ances in summer at 1.30 and (except Sat. and the eves of festivals) 8 p.m. 
daily. If fewer than 20 persons assemble, there is no performance unless 
the sum paid for the tickets is made up to 20 fr. — The late-Gothic carved 
Stalls deserve notice. The second chapel on the S. side contains a pleas- 
ing picture by Deschwanden, St. Anne and St. Mary. The choir has three 
modern stained-glass windows (St. Nicholas and other saints). A tablet on 
the S. pillar at the entrance to the choir is to the memory of Canitiut (d. 
1597), a famous Jesuit, who is buried in St. Michael's Church (see below). 

The H6tel db Ville, near the church of St. Nicholas, occupies 
the site of the palace of the dukes of Zahringen. The octagonal 
clock-tower dates from 1611. In front of it stands a venerable lime- 
tree, 14' in circumference, supported by stone pillars. 

According to tradition, this tree was originally a twig, borne by a 
young native of Freiburg when he arrived in the town, breathless and 
exhausted from loss of blood, to announce to his fellow-citizens the victory 
of Morat (1476). 'Victory' was the only word he could utter, and having 
thus fulfilled his mission, he expired. 

In the vicinity is a bronze Statue of Father Gregoire Oirard 
(d. 1850). 

Near the Morat Gate is the old Jesuits' College op St. Michael, 
with a church, founded by Father Canisius , but now managed by 
secular clergy. Opposite it, to the left, is a plain, barrack-like 
Boys' School, founded by the Jesuits, in 1827. — The Lycee, next 
the College, contains the valuable Cantonal Museum. 

Two rooms on the ground-floor contain the "Marckllo Museum, be- 
queathed to the town by the sculptress Duchess Adela Colonna (d. 1S79), 
a native of Freiburg, who assumed the name of Marrello: busts and 
statues ('Pythia) by Miircello; pictures by her, and hy Velasquez, Regnault, 
Hubert, Delacroix", Fortuny, (ourbet, etc.; tapestry, furniture, etc.; also 



to Lausanne. ROMONT. IV. Route. 62. 205 

the Cantonal Picture Gallery of ancient and modern works. — On the 
first floor (five rooms) is a valuable collection of antiquities from lake- 
dwellings, Roman and Swiss relics, ethnographical objects, weapons and 
armour, coins, etc. — The second floor (two rooms) contains zoological 
and physical, the third floor mineralogical and botanical collections. 

The great *St/spension Bridge, oi Qrand Pont Suspendu, con- 
structed by Chaley in 1834, is 270 yds. long, and 168' above the 
Sarine. It is supported by six wire-ropes, 410 yds. in length, which 
form a single inverted arch, the extremities being secured by 128 an- 
chors attached to blocks of stone far below the surface of the earth. 
On the side next the town the chains pass through the walls of 
several houses. — A little farther up is the Pont de Gotteron (250 
yds. long, 245' high), a similar bridge, constructed in 1840 over the 
Vallee de Ootteron, a deep ravine descending to the Sarine. On 
the right side its chains are secured in the sandstone rock itself. 

Fbom Fkeibukg to Yverdon, 3i'/2 M., railway in 2 hrs. (3 fr. 75 c. or 
2 fr. 65 c). Near (3V2 M.) Belfaux is a huge embankment, forming an aque- 
duct for the Sornaz, 150 yds. in length. Stat. Orolley , Lichelles, Coutset, 
Corcelles, and (I41/2 M.) Payerne($. 207), the junction of the 'Ligne de Broye\ 
We cross the Broye and the Glane. I6V2 M. Cugy; 20 M. Estavayer (Mais on 
de Ville; Cerf), a little town with the picturesque chateau of Chilnaux, 
on the Lake of Neuchatel. (Steamer twice daily by Cortaillod and A11- 
vernier to Neuchdtel, p. 195.) — 23V2 M. Cheyres; 26 M. Yvonand, on a 
tongue of land projecting far into the lake, at the mouth of the Mentue, 
where Roman relics have been found. 3172 M. Yverdon (p. 202). 

To the S.E. of Freiburg (15 M.; road by Bechthalden and Plaffeyen ; dil- 
igence in summer daily in 4 hrs.), in the valley of the Sense, is the Schwarze 
See (Lac Noir, 3365'), amidst lofty mountains, and well stocked with fish. 
On its bank lies the "Schwarzsee-Bad, or Bains Domene (R. 1-3, board 
4-6 fr. per day), with sulphur-springs. The Kaiser eggschloss (7188'), to the 
S.E. (3 hrs., with guide), commands the Bernese and Valaisian Alps. — 
From the Schwarze See over the Col de GMsaUUes to (IOV2 M.) Char- 
mey, see p. 192; over the Gantrist Pass to Tnun, p. 191. 

"Berra (Bwreriberg, 5655'), 4 l /2-5 hrs. from Freiburg, interesting. Road 
by Marly, a village prettily situated on the Girine (A,ergerenbach), to (6 M.) 
LeMouret; thence a bridle-path up the Kasenberg to the (2 l /2hrs.) top. Ex- 
tensive view of the Jura, the lakes of Neuchatel, Morat, and Bienne, and 
the Alps. Descent to Valsainte (p. 192) 3 /i hr., to the Schwarze See l'/2 hr. 

As the train proceeds we enjoy a view of the Simmenthal and 
Freiburg Mts. to the left, the Mole"son being conspicuous. The Olane, 
with its perpendicular banks, and a handsome bridge of four arches 
which carries the road across it, are also seen to the left. 24 M. 
Matron; 25l/ 2 M. Rose; 27 M. Neyruz; 28y 2 M. Cottens; 30 M. 
Chenens. Near (33 M.) Villaz-St. Pierre the train enters the valley 
of the Olane ; on the left are the fertile slopes of the Oibloux (3947'). 
Near Romont, to the left, is the nunnery of La Fille Dieu. 

36 M. Romont (2325'; pop. 1886; *Cerf; Couronne; *Croix 
Blanche), a little town on the Glane, with ancient walls and watch- 
towers, is picturesquely situated on a hill. The Castle on the S. 
side, founded by the Burgundian kings in the 10th cent., is now 
occupied by the local authorities. The old Gothic Church contains 
choir-stalls with grotesque carving. At the S. end of the hill rises 
a massive round tower ; the adjoining grounds afford a pleasing view. 



206 IV. Route 62. CHEXBRES. 

Fkom Romont to Bulle (p. 240), 12 M., branch-line in 50min. Stations 
Vuisternens, Sale*, Vaulruz (p. 241). 

39 J /2 M. Siviriez. A tunnel pierces the watershed between the 
Glane and the Broye. 42 M. Vauderens. To the right lies the 
valley of the Broye, with the Payerne railway and the town of Rue 
(see below). At (46 M.) Oron-le-Chatel (2378') we pass through a 
cutting in the castle-hill to the station on the S . side ; Oron-la- 
Ville lies below, to the right (see below). The train now descends 
and crosses the Mionnaz and the Broye. 48 M. Stat. Palezieux (see 
below). We again ascend slightly, traversing a smiling and partially 
wooded tract, to (53^2 M.) Chexbres. 

The 'Signal de Chexbres (1920' ; *Hdt. du Signal, with garden), 10 min. 
from the station, affords a superb view. At our feet lies the greater part 
of the Lake of Geneva ; to the left Vevey ; above it, from left to right, are 
the saddle of the Col de Jaman, the tooth-like Dent de Jaman, the broad 
back of the Rochers de Naye , and the Tour d'A'i and Tour de Morges ; 
farther back, the Grand-Moeveran and the Dent de Morcles. In the centre 
of the background is the pyramid of Mont Catogne; on its left rises the 
snowy cone of Mont Velan; to the right the Savoy Mts., with the Dent 
d'Oche. — Travellers bound for Vevey may descend direct from the Signal 
to the village of Chexbres. 

From Chexbkes to Vevey, 4 M. The diligence , corresponding with 
every train, descends to Vevey in 45 min. (passengers may alight at the 
station); ascent from Vevey to Chexbres l'/2 hr., leaving Vevey about 2 hrs. 
before the train is due at Chexbres. The road leads through (1 M.) the 
large village of Chexbres (1903 1 ; "Hot. Victoria, with garden and fine view, 
pens, from 5 fr. ; "Lion d'Or), with its old castle (whence a path descends 
direct to Rivaz-St. Saphorin, a station on the W. Railway, p. 234), and then 
descends, in view of the beautiful lake and the Savoy Mts., to the Lau- 
sanne and Vevey road and (3 31.) Vevey (p. 228). 

Beyond the next tunnel (506 yds.) a **View of singular beauty, 
embracing the greater part of the Lake of Geneva and the surround- 
ing mountains, is suddenly disclosed. In the direction of Vevey, 
which is not itself visible, are the Pleiades, the Dent de Jaman, 
the valley of the Rhone, and the Savoy Mts. ; in the foreground lie 
numerous villages amidst vineyards. Beyond a tunnel (through 
which the setting sun shines in summer) and stat. Qrandvaux 
(Cully) we observe the villages of Lutry, Pully , and Ouchy on the 
lake, and Lausanne on the hill above them. Beyond another tunnel 
and a viaduct we reach (58y 2 M.) La Conversion (Lutry), and cross 
the valley of the Paudeze (p. 228) by a viaduct of nine arches. After 
another short tunnel our train reaches the Lausanne and Vevey line. 

61 M. Lausanne, see p. 225. 

63. From Lausanne to Payerne and Lyss. 

63 M. Railway in 41/2 hrs. ; fares 7 fr. 45, 5 fr. 35 c. (no 1st class). 

To Palezieux (13 M.), see above. We follow the pleasant val- 
ley of the Broye. 15 M. Palezieuz-halte ; 17'/ 2 M. Chdtillens (i/ 2 M. 
totheN.E. is Oron-la-Ville, see above); 20 M. Ec.ublens-Rue. The 
little town of Hue (2323'; Maison de Ville; Fleur de Lis) lies on 
a hill to the right, commanded by an old chateau. 23 M. Bressonaz. 

241/2 M. Moudon (1690'; pop. 2647; Hot. du Pont; Couronne; 



AVENCHES. IV. Route 63. 207 

Hot. de la Ville), with the chateaux of Carouge and Bochefort, an old 
town, the Roman Minodunum , and long the capital of the Pays de 
Vaud. Handsome Gothic church. — Farther on we cross the Broye 
twice. 271/2 M. lAicens , with a picturesque old chateau ; 30 M. 
Henniez, to the left of which are the old chateau and church of Sur- 
pierre, on a lofty crag; 32 M. Oranges- Marnand. 

37 M. Payerne (1480'; pop. 3673; *Ours; Croix Blanche), an 
old town, the Roman Paterniacum{f), was early in the middle ages 
a frequent residence of the kings of Burgundy. 

In the 10th cent. Bertha, wife of Rudolph II., erected a church and 
Benedictine abbey here, the former now a granary, the latter a school. 
Her hones, with those of her husband and her son Conrad, were dis- 
covered in 1817 below a tower of the old church, and were buried in the 
Parish Church, where the queen's saddle with a hole for her distaff is 
shown. To this day the expression, 'Ce n'est plus le temps ou Berthe 
lilait', is a regretful allusion to the 'good old times'. 

From Payerne to Freiburg and Yverdon, see p. 205. 

The valley of the Broye becomes broad and marshy. 3&Y2 M. 
Corcelles; 40'/2 M. Dompierre ; 42M. Domdidier. 

43V 2 M. Avenches (1519'; pop. 1864; *Couronne; Hotel dt 
Ville), now a smalltown, was the ancient capital of the Helvetii, 
the Rom. Aventicum. Distinct remains of an Amphitheatre and other 
buildings, and of the old town -walls, testify to its former pros- 
perity. The mediaeval Castle, at the entrance to the town, occupies 
the site of the Roman capitol. To the N.W. rises a solitary Corin- 
thian column 39' high, the remnant of a temple of Apollo, now 
called Le Cigognier, from the stork's nest which has occupied it for 
centuries. The Museum (custodian lives near the church; small 
fee) contains mosaics, inscriptions, and other relics recently found 
here; in its garden is the above-mentioned amphitheatre. 

In his Childe Harold (iii. 65) Lord Byron alludes to the 'Cigognier': — 
' By a lone wall a lonelier column rears 
A grey and grief-worn aspect of old days.' 

For centuries a tradition was current that the tombstone of a daughter 
of Julius Alpinus had been discovered at Avenches, the supposed inscription 
on which Lord Byron describes as a most affecting composition (Ch. Har. 
iii., 66, 67); but both monument and inscription are said to have been 
invented by a certain Paulus Guilelmus, who lived in the 16th cent. 

At (4572 M. ) Faoug (Soleil ; H6t. Wicky) we approach the Lake 
of Morat (1428') , the Roman Lacus Aventicensis and the Uecht- 
See of the middle ages, 5!/ 2 M. long. It is separated from the Lake 
of Neuchatel by the narrow Mont Vully towards the N. and the Char- 
rhontel to the S., but connected with it by the Broye. 

4772 M. Morat, Ger. Murten (1522'; pop. 2360; Couronne or 
Post; Croix; Lion; Pens. Kauer , on the lake, moderate; Rail. 
Restaur.), an ancient little town with well preserved gates and walls. 
Its narrow arcaded streets are overshadowed by an old Castle, which 
in 1476, with a garrison of 1500 Bernese under Adrian von Buben- 
berg, resisted the artillery of Charles the Bold for ten days before the 
battle of Morat. The School contains a collection of Burgundian weap- 
ons. Lake Baths next the Pension Kauer, at the S. end of the town. 



208 IV. Route 64. ORBE. 

About \>Ji 31. to the S. of Morat, near the lake, rises a marble Obelitk, 
erected in 1822 in memory of the Battle of Morat, which was fought on 
22nd June, 1476. This was the bloodiest of those three disastrous contests 
(Grandson, Morat, and Nancy), in which the puissant Duke of Burgundy 
successively lost his treasure , his courage, and his life ('Gut, Muth , und 
Blut'). The Burgundians lost 15,000 men and all their military stores. 

The Steamboat pkom Morat to Neuchatel (twice daily in 2 x /2 hrs.) 
crosses the lake to Motier and Praz, at the E. base of the vine-clad Mont 
Vully (2267'); at Sugiez it passes under a wooden bridge and enters the 
Broye. To the W. stretches the Jura, from the Weissenstein to the Chasse- 
ron. Near La Scrnge we enter the Lake of fleuchatel (p. 194), steering firsts. W. 
to Cudrefin, and afterwards N.W. to St. Blaise and Neuchdtel (p. 195). 

Near (50^2 M.) Galmitz, Fr. Charmey, we leave the lake. To 
the left is the Orosse Moos, an extensive marshy tract, partly re- 
claimed of late. 52'/2 M. Kerzers, Fr. Chietres (*Pens. Mosching, 
4-4i/ 2 fr.); 5472 M. Fraschels, Fr. Frasse; 57 M. Kallnach. 

59V2 M. Aarberg (1470' ; pop. 1249; Krone), an old town on 
an island in the Aare. Adjoining the church is the old castle of the 
counts of Aarberg, who sold their dominions to Bern in 1351. 

The train crosses the Aare to (63 M.J Lyss , on the Bienne and 
Bern line (p. 12). 

64. From Lausanne to Vallorbes and Pontarlier. 

45 M. Railway in 21/2-3 hrs. (7 fr. 70, 5 fr. 35, 3 fr. 70 c). Express from 
Lausanne to Paris by this route (327 M.) in 10y* hrs. (58 fr. 50, 33 fr. 65, 
26 fr. 5 c). 

To (9M. ) Penthalaz-Cossonay, see p. 203. The train at first runs 
parallel with the Yverdon line and diverges to the left at Villars- 
Lussery. 15 M. La Sarraz (1647'; Maison de Ville), a small town 
with an old chateau. Two short tunnels. We then ascend to(18M.) 
Ames (1791'); % M. to the N. lies the picturesque little town of 
Orbe(1460'; 1947 inh. ; Deux Poissow; Ecu de France) , on the 
Orbe, which is crossed here by two bridges. Early in the middle 
ages Orbe was the capital of Little Burgundy, to which period belong 
the two towers of the chateau (view from the terrace). 

The line then leads in long windings, affording a splendid view, 
at first to the right, then to the left of the entire Alpine chain from 
the Mont Blanc to the Jungfrau, by Bofflens, to £2'2 M..)Croy-Romain- 
motier, l l / 2 M. from the little old town of Romainm$tier (2295' ; 
Maison de Ville). Farther on, the train skirts wooded hills; on 
the right, in the deep valley of the Orbe, lies the village of Ltt 
Ciees with its castle, and high on the left bank are the villages of 
Lignerolles , whence Mont Sachet (5235') is easily ascended in 2 
hrs., and Ballaiguea (*H6t.-Pens. la ISapiniere; *Pens. Maillefer, 
!/ 2 M. to the E.), visited as a summer resort (Engl. Church service). 
Two short tunnels; then (26 M.) Le Day, the junction for Le Pont 
(see p. 209). Near Vallorbes we cross the Orbe by a handsome iron 
bridge above the influx of the Jougnenaz. 

28'/ 2 M. Vallorbes (2520'; 2147 inh. ; *H6tel de (hneve, at the 














s 'S' 



^ 



? i/ J^ S 



■ Jtf^o 



4.. 



T K 



iv 



ft * '\ 



% . 



w 



% 



• 



' 






LAC DE JOUX. IV. Route 64. 209 

station ; Maison de Ville, Croix Blanche, both moderate), a watch- 
making place, at the base of the Mont d'Or (4818'), almost totally 
rebuilt since the fire of 1883. 

Feom Vallokbes to Le Pont, 7 1 /* M., railway in 40 min. To (2>/2 M.) 
Le Day, see p. 208. The line to Le Pont diverges here to the right and, 
skirting the wooded slopes of the Dent de Vaulion, gradually ascends to 
the tunnel (500 yds. long) under the Monl d'Orzeires (3395'), whence it 
descends along the Lac Brenet (see below) to — 

7V2 M. Le Pont ( Truite), a hamlet at the N. end of the Lac de Joux (3310'; 
5 M. long, l l /i M. broad), which is separated from the little Lac Brenet by 
an embankment with a bridge. On the N. side of the Lac Brenet are a 
number of apertures (entonnoirs) in the rocks, serving to drain the lake, 
the waters of which , after a subterranean course of 3 M., re-appear as 
the so-called Source of the Orbe, 750' lower. 

Le Pont lies on the S. foot of the *Dent de Vaulion (4880'), the W. 
side of which presents a barren and rugged precipice , 1600 1 high , while 
the B. side is a gentle, grassy slope. The top is reached in l'/j hr. 
from Le Pont (experts may dispense with a guide). View of the Lac de 
Joux, the Lac des Rousses, the Noirmont, and the Dole; to the S.E. part 
of the Lake of Geneva, and beyond it Mont Blanc and the Alps of the 
Valais; lastly the Bernese Oberland. 

A small steamboat plies on the idyllic Lac de Joux (to Rocheray in 
50 min. ; 60 c.). It crosses from Le Pont to L'Abbaye, a prettily situated 
hamlet on the E. bank , whence the Mont Tendre (5512') may be ascended 
in2hrs. (fine view). The following stations are Le Lieu, on the W. bank; 
Grosjean and Bioux, on the E. bank; and Le Rocheray (Hot. Bellevue), at 
the S. extremity of the lake. Omnibus hence to ( 3 / 4 M.) Le Sentier ("Pens. 
Guignard ; Union ; Hot. de Ville ; Lion d'Or), a pleasant village on the Orbe, 
frequented as a health-resort. About 2 M. higher up is the village of 
Le Brassus (3412 1 ; Hot. de la Lande; Hot. de France); thence over the 
Col de Marchairuz to (I6V2 M.) Rolle, see p. 224. 

The train backs out from the'station, describes a wide curve 
and ascends the pretty, wooded valley of the Jougnenaz, where it 
soon enters French territory. A short and a long tunnel are passed 
through before (35 M.) Hopitaux-Jougne. We then cross the highest 
ridge of the Jura and descend through wooded and rocky valleys to 
(42 M.) Frambourg. Near the Fort de Joux , before the defile of 
La Cluse (p. 201), we join the Neuchatel line. 

45 M. Pontarlier, seep. 201. 

65 . Geneva and Environs. 

Arrival. Principal Station (Gare de Cornavin; PI. D, 2), for the Swiss 
Jura-Simplon and the French Paris, Lyons, & Mediterranean lines, on the 
right bank, at the upper end of the Rue du Montblanc. Omnibus from the 
station to all the hotels (and from the hotels to the station) 30 c. ; each 
box 15 c. — Station of Eaux-Vives (Gare des Vollandes), for Annemasse, 
Cluses, Annecy, Bouveret, and Bellegarde, on the left bank (PI. F, 8; 
tramway to the Place duMolard and the Cornavin Station). TheErench rail- 
way-time is about 26 min. behind that of Geneva. — Steamboat Piees on 
the S. (left) bank by the Jardin Anglais, and on the N. (right) bank by 
the Quai des Paquis (PI. E, 1 ; for the express boats only). 

Hotels. On the Bight Bank, with view of the lake and the AlpsJ: 
*Grand Hot. National (PI. f. ; F, 2), a large house on the Quai du Le"- 
man, finely situated; Hot. des Beegues (PI. a; D, 4), Quai des Bergues; 
'Hot. de Russie (PI. b; D, 4) and "Grand-Hot. de la Paix (PI. c; D, 4), 
on the Quai du Montblanc ; *H6t. Beau-Rivage (PI. d ; E, 4) and ! 'H6t. 
d'Angleterre (PI. e; E, 4), on the Quai des Paquis. -Hot. Richemond 

Baedeker, Switzerland. 15th Edition. 14 



210 IV. Route 65. GENEVA. Hotel*. 

(PI. r; B, 4), Place des Alpes. — On the Left Bank: *H6t. Metbopolb 
(PI. g; D, 5), by the Jardin Anglais; 'Hot. de l'Ecd (PI. h; C, 4); both 
with view of the lake. All these hotels are of the first class, with 
corresponding charges: R., L., & A. from 4-5, B. 1V«, lunch 4. D. 6 fr. — 
"Hot. du Lac (PI. k; D, 5), B., L., & A. 3-5, D. inel. wine 4fr.; «H6t. 
de la Poste (PI. i; B, 4), frequented hy Germans, B., L., & A. 3>/«, D. 
incl. wine 3>/2, S. incl. wine 3 fr.; *H6t. de Pabis (PI. 1; D, 5), with view 
of the lake, B. & A. 2V2-3 fr. ; *H6t. Victoria (PI. m ; E, 6), Bue Pierre- 
Fatio, E., L., & A. 3V2, D. 3 J /2 fr. ; "Hotel du Mont Blanc, Balance 
(PI. n; C, 4), and Gkand Aigle (PI. o ; D, 5), in the Bue du Rhone. — On 
the right hank: Hot. Suisse (PI. p; D, 3), B., L., & A. 372, D. 31/2 fr.; 
Hot. de Geneve (PI. q ; B, 3), B., L., & A. 3, D. 3 fr. ; Hot.-Pens. Bel-Aib 
(PI. s; D. 4), these three in the Bue du Montblanc; 'Hotel Baub et de 
la Gabe (PI. t ; D, 2), and Hot. deTla Monnaie, all near the station. 

Pensions (Pensions alimentairee), very numerous owing to the great 
influx of strangers : 120 to 300 fr. per month. Beau Site (150-200 fr.), Bue 
General Dufour 20; Vultier (6 fr. per day), Quai Pierre Fatio 12; Fitcher, 
Quai des Eaux-Vives 3 (6 fr. per day; lake -baths near it); Mmes. Livel 
& Qrdbet, Quai des Eaux-Vives 2 (for ladies, 150-170 fr.); Mme. Boeder, Bue 
de Candolle 15; Lange-Goetz, Quai des Eaux-Vives 10; Mile. Bovet, Quai 
des Eaux-Vives 12; Mme. Verdan-Courvoisier, Bue de Candolle 17; Btrard, 
Bue du Bhone 59; Mme. Fleischmann, Bond-Point de Plainpalais 5 (6-7 fr.); 
Favre - Matthey (Maison des Trois Boil), Place Bel - Air 2 (5 fr. per day, 
125 fr. per month); Mme. Chappuis, Boul. des Philosophes 15; Jactson- 
Fromont, Bue du Montblanc and Bue Pradier 1; Welten, Place Topffer 5; 
Mmei. Ewer-Lassalle's Home for Lndy Students, Bue Thalberg 4 (Place des 
Alpes); Morhardt, Boul. de Plainpalais 20; Pens, du Rhine, Boul. de Plain- 
palais 26; Mile. Tallon, Plainpalais, Chemin du Soleil levant 7 (90-100 fr.); 
Pens. Mon-Repos (Miles, de Planta), Boulevard Helve"tique 22 (4-6 fr.); Mme. 
Duraffourd, Boulevard des Philosophes 3 ; . Mme. Richardet (6 fr.), Bue du 
Montblanc 8; Vve. Picard (180.fr.), Place de la Me'tropole 2; Mme. ffugue- 
nin, Place des Alpes and Bue Levrier 13; Mrs. Watson, Bue de la Gre- 
nade 2 (Quai du Leman) ; Durand, Chemin Dancet 3 ; Maret, Petit-Floris- 
sant 12; "SSt.-Pens. Beau-Sijour, in Champel-sur-Arve (pens. 6, B. from 
l^fr.); *H6l.-Pens. de la Roseraie, same place; "H6t.-Pens. Bellevue, Rue 
de Lyon 29, with garden (5-7 fr.). — Villas. Many of the pleasant villas 
and country-houses in the neighbourhood of Geneva are let to visitors. 

Cafes. Kiosque des Bastions, on the Promenade des Bastions (p. 215), 
with music almost every afternoon and evening; Cafe~ du Nord, de la 
Couronne, and de Geneve, all on the Grand Quai ; du Thidtre, in the Theatre ; 
du Musie; Lyrique; in the Jardin Anglais, etc. — Beer at the cafe's. Also 
ScholVs, Bue du Bhone 92 ; Landolt, opposite the University and the Jardin 
des Bastions; Brasserie Bdle, Brasserie deVOpira, near the theatre ; Brass. 
St. Jean (fine view); Jaeger, Boulevard James Fazy 3, opposite the Pro- 
menade St. Jean; Bonivard, Rue des Alpes 6; Brass, du Jardin des Alpes, 
Place des Alpes; Brass. Bemoise, Brass, de la Poste, both Bue du Montblanc. 
Geneva beer at the breweries outside the gates: Treiber, Boute de Chene, 
with a pleasant shady terrace. — Restaurants. Left Bank : Caft du Nord, 
Caft du Lac, Yillard, all in the Bue du Bhone ; du Thidtre, at the theatre, 
D. incl. wine, at 12.15 and 7 p.m., 2'/2 fr. Right Bank: " Taverne Anglaite, 
Bue des Alpes 4. — The tables d'hote at the hotels are on the whole 
better and less expensive than dinners a la carte at the restaurants. 

Baths. Bains de la Poste, Place de la Poste, well fitted up, hot, cold, 
shower, and vapour baths ; Bains dee Alpes, Rne Le"vrier 5 ; Bains de Chante- 
poulet, Rue de Chantepoulet, etc. — Lake Baths. Swimming and other baths 
by the Quai des Eaux-Vives (left bank); also by the pier on the opposite 
bank (PI. F, 4) ; both open for ladies 8-11 o'clock. — "Baths in the Rhone 
above the Pont de la Machine (PI. C, 4 ; p. 213), well fitted up ; swimming- 
bath 30, plunge-bath 60, with towels 80-90 c. — Baths in the Arve, very 
cold (in summer only about 50°), Chemin des Bains de l'Arve, 20, >/|H. 
from the Place Neuve; also at Champel-sur-Arve (see above). 

General Post Office, Rue du Montblanc (PI. D, 3). — Central Telegraph 
Office '(open day and night), Rue du Stand (PI. B, 4). Branch OJficee 



Physicians. GENEVA. IV. Route 65. 211 

(Post and Telegraph): Rue d'ltalie 4, near the Palais de Justice, Rue du 
Stand, and Route de Carouge. 

Tramway from the Gare deCornavin (p. 209) by the Pont duMontblanc, 
Place du Molard, Place Neuve, Rond Point de Plainpalais to Carouge 
(p. 220), and from the chief station by the Place du Molard, and Cours de 
Rive to the Eaux-Vivei Station (p. 209) and to CMne (p. 259) and Annemasie 
(p. 259). From the Cornavin station to the Place Molard 10 c. ; Carouge to 
Chene 40 c. — Steam Tramways (Chemins deFer it vote itroite) to Veyrier, 
St. Julien, Lancy, Chancy, Vernier, Ferney, etc., see p. 219. 

Cabs. Drive in the town and suburbs, 1-4 pers. l'/zfr., trunk l /itv.; 
per hr., 1-4 pers. 2>/2 fr., each additional l /t hr. 65 c. At night (April 1 
to Sept. 30, 10-5; other seasons 8-8) per drive 6, 1-4 pers. 2 1 /*, per hr. 3 3 /i, 
each additional l /i hr. 1 fr. Over-charges are not uncommon; it is ad- 
visable to arrange the fare beforehand. 

Boats 60 c. - 1 fr. 20 c. per hr. ; with boatman 1 fr. 20 c. per br. extra. 
The English 'canots* are steadier than the 'vomers' 1 or sailing-boats. The 
smaller boats used within the harbour are called 'nacelles.'' Rowers are 
prohibited from approaching the Pont des Bergues on account of the dan- 
gerous rapids. 

Shops. The most attractive are those on the Grand-Quai, the Rue du 
Rhone, the Rue de la Corraterie (left bank), the Quai des Bergues, and 
the Rue du Montblanc (right bank). Geneva is noted for its watches and 
jewellery. Among the watch-makers of repute may be mentioned Vacheron 
<t Constantin, Rue des Moulins 1; Golay, Leresche & Fils, Quai des 
Bergues 81; Bachmann, Koehn, Patek, Philippe <fc Co., all on the Grand- 
Quai; Wirth, Place Molard 11. — Engraver, M. H. Bovy, chiefly for medals, 
Rue Chantepoulet. — Musical boxes : F. Conchon, Place des Alpes 9 & Rue 
des Paquis 2; 67. Baker-Troll £ Co., Rue Bonivard 6. 

Booksellers. Oeorg & Co., Corraterie 10; Burkfiardt, Molard 2; Stapel- 
mohr, Corraterie 24. — Reading Room (free) with English and Amer. 
newspapers at the office of the 'Geneva Telegraph', Rue Levrier 3. 

Theatre (p. 216). Performances daily in winter (adm. 11/2-5 fr. ; seats 
secured in advance, or 'en location', at higher charges). — Kursaal on the 
Quai des Paquis (PI. E, 3); concert every evening at 8 p.m., adm. 1-3 fr. 

Organ Concert in the Cathedral (p. 214) on Mon., Wed., and Sat., at 
7. 30 p. m. ; tickets (lfr.) obtainable from the concierge and at the hotels. 

— Concerts in the Bdtiment Electoral (p. 218) every Sunday afternoon in 
winter; also fortnightly in the Theatre (see above). 

Exhibition of Art, belonging to the Soci4ti des Amis des Beaux-Arts, 
in the Athe'ne'e (p. 216), open daily 10-6, Sun. 11-4; adm. 1 fr. — Ex- 
position Municipale des Beaux-Arts in Aug. and Sept. annually, in the 
Batiment Electoral (p. 218). — Public Lectures (Cours publics et gratuits) 
in the University Hall, in winter daily at 8 p.m. 

Physicians. Prof. D^Espine, Rue Beauregard 6; Dr. Cordis, Rue Bel- 
lot 12; Br. Tucker- Wise, Pens. Siitterlin (Oct.-May). — Chemists. Baker, 
Place des Bergues 3; Finck, Rue du Montblanc 26; Goegg , Corraterie 18; 
Ackermann, Rue des Allemands 13; etc. 

Hydropathic Establishment (physician Dr. Glatz) at Champel-sur-Arve 
(p. 210; tramway-station La Cluse), well fitted up. Fine panorama from 
the view-tower (Tour de Champel; '/2 fr.). 

Official Enquiry Office of the Association des Intirets de Geneve. Quai du 
Montblanc 5 (daily 9-11 a.m.). — Cook & Son's office, Rue du Rhone 90. 

British Consul (for the French-speaking cantons), D. P. F. Barton, Esq., 
Rue Bonivard 10 (10-12 a.m.). 

English Church (P1.D,3,4) on the right bank, in the Rue du Montblanc. 

— American Church, Rue des Voirons (PI. E, 3), not far from the Brun- 
swick Monument and the Kursaal. — Presbyterian Services (8-11 a.m.), Place 
de la Fusterie 7. 

Geneva (1243'; pop. 73,000, including the suburbs), Fr. Ge- 
neve, Ital. Oinevra, the capital of the smallest canton next to Zug 
(total pop. 106,738), is the largest and richest town in Switzerland. 

14* 



212 IV. Route 65. GENEVA. History. 

It lies at the S. end of the lake, at the point where the blue waters of 
the Rhone emerge from it with the swiftness of an arrow, and a little 
above the confluence of the Rhone and the Arve (p. 220). The 
Rhone divides the town into two parts : on the left bank lies the 
Old Town, the seat of government and centre of traffic; on the right 
bank is the Quartier St. Oervais, formerly a suburb only. The old 
fortifications having been removed since 1850, the town has extended 
rapidly, and new streets are still springing up. 

History. Geneva makes its appearance in the 1st cent. B. C. as ff«- 
nava, a town of the Allobroges (Cses. de Bell. Gall., i. 6-8), whose terri- 
tory became a Roman province. In 433 it became the capital of the Bur- 
gundian kingdom, with which it came into the possession of the Franks 
in 533, was annexed to the new Burgundian kingdom at the end of the 
9th cent., and fell to the German Empire in 1033. In 1034 Emp. Con- 
rad II. caused himself to be crowned here as king of Burgundy. In the 
course of the protracted conflicts for supremacy between the Bishops 
of Geneva, the imperial Counts of Geneva, and the Counts (afterwards 
Dukes) of Savoy, the citizens succeeded in obtaining various privileges. 
In 1518 they entered into an alliance with Freiburg, and in 1526 with 
Bern. Two parties were now formed in the town, the Confederates ('Eid- 
genossen', pronounced by the French 'Higuenos'', whence the term '27m- 
guenots'), and the Mamelukes, partisans of the House of Savoy. 

In the midst of these discords dawned the Reformation, which Geneva 
zealously embraced. In 1535 the Bishop transferred his seat to Gex, and 
the following year the theologian Jean Calvin (properly Caulvin, or Chauvin), 
who was born at Noyon in Picardy in 1509, a refugee from Paris, sought 
refuge at Geneva. He attached himself to Farel, the chief promoter of 
the new doctrines at Geneva, and soon obtained great influence in all affairs 
of church and state. In 1538 he was banished, but on his return three 
years later he obtained almost sovereign power and succeeded in esta- 
blishing a rigid ecclesiastical discipline. His rhetorical powers were of 
the highest order, and the austerity which he so eloquently preached he 
no less faithfully practised. In accordance with the spirit of the age, 
however, his sway was tyrannical and intolerant. Castellio, who rejected 
the doctrine of predestination, was banished in 1540; and Michael Servetus, 
a Spanish physician who had fled from Vienne in Dauphine* in consequence 
of having written a treatise against the doctrine of the Trinity (de Trinitatis 
erroribus) , and was only a visitor at Geneva, was arrested in 1553 by 
Calvin's order and condemned to the stake and executed by order of the 
Great Council. In 1559 Calvin founded the Geneva Academy, which soon 
became the leading Protestant school of theology, so that the hitherto 
commercial city now acquired repute as a seat of learning also. Calvin 
died on 27th May, 1564, but his doctrine has been firmly rooted in Geneva 
ever since. — The attempts made by the Dukes of Savoy at the beginning 
of the 17th cent, to recover possession of Geneva were abortive, Protestant 
princes, who recognised the town as the bulwark of the Reformed church, 
having contributed considerable sums towards its fortification. 

In the 18th cent. Geneva was greatly weakened by dissensions, often 
leading to bloodshed, between the privileged classes, consisting of the old 
families (citoyens), who enjoyed a monopoly both of power and of trade 
and the unprivileged and poorer classes (bourgeois, habitants, and tnjets). 
To these differences the writings of Jean Jacques Rousseau, the son of a 
watchmaker, born here in 1712, materially contributed. At the instigation 
of Voltaire and the university of Paris, his 'Emile' and 'Contrat Social' 
were burnt in 1763 by the hangman, by order of the magistrates, as being 
'teme'raires, scandaleux, impies, et tendants a detruire la religion chre'tienne 
et tnus les guuvernements'. — In 1798 Geneva became the capital of the 
French Dipartement du Liman, and in 1814 it joined the Swiss Confede- 
ration, of which it became the 22nd Canton. 

The two halves of the city separated by the Rhone are con- 



Quai du Montblanc. GENEVA. IV. Route 65. 213 

nected by eight bridges. The highest of these, the handsome *Pont 
du Montblanc (PI. D, 4, 5), 280 yds. long, leads from the Rue du 
Montblanc, a broad street descending from the railway-station, to the 
Jardin Anglais (see p. 214), and with this garden forms the centre 
of attraction to visitors in summer. Between the Pont du Mont- 
blanc and the Pont des Bergues is Rousseau's Island (PI. D, 4), 
united to the latter by a chain-bridge, and planted with trees (small 
cafe). In the centre rises the bronze statue of the 'wild self-tortur- 
ing sophist', by Pradier (1834). At the third bridge, the Pont de la 
Machine (PI. C, 4, above which are the Rhone baths, p. 210), the 
Rhone divides into two branches, the left of which is conducted 
to the waterworks (p. 218) , while the right forms the canalized 
channel for the discharge of the lake. 

Handsome quays with tempting shops flank the river near these 
bridges, the principal being the Grand-Quai on the left bank, and 
the Quai des Bergues on the right. Adjacent to the latter is the 
Quai du Montblanc (PI. D, E, 4), extending from the Pont du Mont- 
blanc towards the N.E., and affording a beautiful survey of the *Mont 
Blanc group, which presents a majestic appearance on clear evenings 
(mountain indicator on the railing). 

An idea of the relative heights of the different peaks is better ob- 
tained from this point than at Chamonix. Thus Mont Blanc is 15,730' in 
height, whilst the Aiguille du Midi on the left is 12,605' only. Farther to 
the left are the Grandes Jorasses and the Dent du Geant; in front of the 
Mont Blanc group are the Aiguilles Rouges; then, more in the foreground, 
the Mole, an isolated pyramid rising from the plain; near it the snowy 
summit of the Aiguille d'Argentiere; then the broad Buet; lastly the long 
crest of the Voirons, which terminate the panorama on the left, while 
the opposite extremity is formed by the Saleve. 

In the Place des Alpes rises the sumptuous Monument Bruns- 
wick (PI. E, 4), erected to Duke Charles II. of Brunswick (d. 1873), 
who bequeathed his property (about 20 million fr.) to the town of 
Geneva. 

The monument (in all 66' in height) is a modified and slightly enlarged 
copy of that of Can Signorio della Scala at Verona. It was designed by 
Franel, and consists of a hexagonal structure in the form of a pyramid, in 
three stories, composed of white and coloured marble. The central story is 
in the form of a Gothic chapel with a sarcophagus, on which is a recum- 
bent figure of the duke by Iguel ; and the reliefs on the sides (scenes from 
the history of Brunswick), are by the same master. At the corners , under 
projecting canopies borne by pillars, are marble statues of six celebrated 
Guelphs; higher up are the Christian virtues, the Twelve Apostles, etc. 
The bronze equestrian statue of the duke, which crowned the monument, 
proved too heavy and has been taken down. — The platform is em- 
bellished with mosaic pavement, flower-beds, and fountains. On the right 
and left are two colossal Griffins by Cain. 

The continuation of the Quai du Montblanc is formed by the 
Quai des Paquis, planted with trees, on which is the Kursaal (PI. 
E, 3; p. 211). Behind it is the American Church (p. 211). This quay 
extends to the Jetee, or pier, which affords another fine view of the 
Alps and of the city. From the pier, the Quai du Leman extends 
to the villas of Secheron. — In the Rue du Montblanc are the hand- 



214 IV. Route 65. GENEVA. Cathedral. 

some new H6tel des Postes (PI. D, 3), with a rich facade crowned 
by figures representing the nations of the world, and the Gothic 
English Church (PI. D, 3, 4), erected by Monod in 1853. 

On the S. (left) bank of the lake, to the left of the Pont du Mont- 
blane, rises the National Monument (PI. D, 5), a bronze group of 
Helvetia and Geneva by Borer, commemorating the union of Geneva 
with the Confederation in 1814. — Adjacent on the lake are the 
pleasant grounds of the Jardin Anglais (Promenade du Lac), with 
a cafe-restaurant , where a band often plays on summer-evenings. 
To the left of the entrance is a 'barometer column', and in the 
centre of the garden are a pretty fountain and bronze busts of 
Al. Calame (p. 217) by Iguel, and Fr. Diday by Bovy. A pavilion 
here contains an interesting *Belief of Mont Blanc (adm. 50 c; Sun. 
9-3 gratis), in limewood, 26' in length, affording a good general idea 
of the relative heights of the 'monarch of mountains' and his vassals. 
On the lake, to the N. of the Jardin Anglais, extends the broad 
Quai des Eaux-Vives, planted with trees. (To Ve"senaz, see p. 221). 
Near the Quai is the Salle de la Reformation (PI. E, 6), containing 
a large concert-hall, the Calvinium, with memorials of Calvin, art- 
icles brought home by missionaries, etc. (adm. 50 c), and an 
interesting Relief Model of Jerusalem by Hies. 

Ascending the Rue d'ltalie , to the right near the Hotel Me"tro- 
pole, for a few paces, we reach the Promenade de St. Antoine (PI. 
C, D, 6), a terrace planted with trees. On the right is the College 
de St. Antoine, founded by Calvin in 1559; to the left(E.) i= the 
Observatory, and on a height farther off (S.E.) rises the Russian 
Church, with its gilded domes, the interior of which is worth seeing. 
Adjacent is a bronze bust of R. Tbpjfer (d. 1846), the author. 

The Rue des Chaudronniers leads S.W. from the Promenade to 
the Place du Bourg-de-Four (PL C, 6), in which to the right is 
the Palais de Justice. ■ — Leaving the upper end of the Place by the 
Rue de l'Hotel de Ville, we turn to the right to reach the — 

Cathedral (St. Pierre ; PI. C, 6) , completed in 1024 by Emp. 
Conrad II. in the Romanesque style, altered in the 12th and 13th 
cent., and disfigured in the 18th by the addition of a Corinthian por- 
tico. The interior is in the transition style of the 13th century. 
The verger lives at the back of the church, liue Farel 8. (Adm. 
week-days 1-3, free, at other hours, except Sun. 10-12, each pers. 
20 c, parties of more than five, 1 fr.; ascent of the tower, 1-5 pers. 
1 fr., each additional pers. 20 c). 

Intekiok. Carved stalls of the 15th century. Monument of Duke Henri 
de Rohan (leader of the Protestants under Louis XIII.), who fell at Rhein- 
felden (p. 18) in 1638, of his wife Marg. de Sully, and his son Tancrede ; 
the black marble sarcophagus rests on two lions; the Statue of the duke, 
in a sitting posture, by Igucl, is modern, the original having been destroyed 
in 1798. Beneath a black tombstone in the nave lies Cardinal Jean de 
Brogny (d. 1126), president of the Council of Constance. A black stone in 
the S. aisle is to the memory of Agrippa d^Aubigni (d. 1630 at Geneva, in 
exile), the confidant of Henry IV. of France, erected to him, in gratitude 



ffitel de Ville. GENEVA. IV. Route 65. 215 

for his services, by the Republic of Geneva. Under the pulpit is a chair 
once used by Calvin. Adjoining is the beautiful Gothic "Ghapelle des Mac- 
chabe'es, dating from the beginning of the 15th cent, (recently restored). Ad- 
mirable Organ (concerts, see p. 211). 

We now return to the Rue de l'Hotel de Ville, and turn to the 
left to the Hotel de Ville (PI. C, 5, 6), a clumsy building in the 
Florentine style, which is entered by an inclined plane, enabling the 
councillors to ride, or be conveyed in litters, to or from the council- 
chambers. — Opposite is the Arsenal (PI. C, 5 ; Sun. and Thurs., 
1-4), containing the Musee Historique Qenevois, a collection of old 
weapons, the ladders used at the 'Escalade' (see below), etc. 

In the vicinity, Grand' Rue No. 40, is the house in which Routseau, 
the son of a watchmaker, was born (1712, d. 1778 at Ermenonville near 
Paris). His grandfather lived at that time at the back of Rue Rousseau 27, 
on the right bank of the Rhone, which bears an erroneous inscription that 
Rousseau was born there. — Calvin's Home is No. 11 Rue Calvin (PI. C, 5). 

The Musee Fol (PL C, 5 ; Sun. and Thurs., 1-4), Grand' Rue 11, 
founded by M. W. Fol, contains (in the court to the right) a valuable 
collection of Greek, Roman, and Etruscan antiquities, the yield of 
recent excavations, and mediaeval and Renaissance curiosities. 

The Rue de la Cite, the lower prolongation of the Grand' Rue, leads 
to the Rue des Allemands, where a tasteful Fountain Monument (PI. C, 4) 
commemorates the last and nearly successful attempt of the Savoyards to 
gain possession of the town (comp. p. 212). The day on which the 'Escalade' 
was repulsed (early on 12th Dec. 1602) is still kept with public rejoicings. 

A gateway adjoining the Hotel de Ville (see above) leads to the 
shady promenades of La Treille, which afford a fine view of the 
Saleve. Below this terrace is the Botanic Garden (PI. B, 0, 5, 6), 
laid out in 1816 by the celebrated Aug. De Candolle (d. 1841). The 
hot-house is adorned with marblebusts of famous Genevese, and in 
front of it rises a colossal bust of De Candolle. Close by is a bust of 
E. Boissieu (d. 1885), the botanist. The adjoining Promenade des 
Bastions is a favourite resort. (At the entrance, adjoining the Place 
Neuve, is the Kiosque des Bastions, p. 210.) In the grounds opposite 
are a statue of David by Chaponniere and the ''Pierre aux fees', or 
l aux dames', with four figures, said to be a Druidical stone. To the 
E. is a monument of Gosse, the geologist. 

The Athenee (PI. C, 6), to the S.E. of the Botanical Garden, 
a Renaissance edifice, the facade of which is adorned with busts of 
nine famous Genevese, was erected by the wife of the 'philhellenist' 
Eynard, and presented to the Societe des Amis des Beaux-Arts. It 
contains lecture-rooms, a library of works on the history of art , an 
exhibition of art (p. 211), and on the sunk-floor the Musee Industriel 
(Thurs. and Sun., 1-2), with the machines used by L. Favre in 
boring the St. Gotthard tunnel. — Near it is the Ecole de Chimie. 

The University Buildings (PI. B, 6), on the Bastion Prome- 
nade, erected in 1867-71, consist of three different parts connected 
by glass galleries. The central part contains the lecture-rooms and 
laboratories, the E. wing the collections of antiquities and coins, and 
the Library, and the W. wing the Nat. Hist. Museum. In the square 



216 IV. Route 65. GENEVA. University. 

in front of it is a bronze bust of Ant . Carteret (d. 1889), the statesman, 
by Charmot. In the vestibule is a bronze bust of the Swiss author 
Marc Monnier (d. 1885), by Dufaux. The university has 70 profes- 
sors and about 700 students. Ladies are admitted to the lectures. 

The Bibliotheque Publique, containing 100,000 vols, and 16l0 MSS., 
founded by Bonivard, the prisoner of Chillon (p. 232), in 1551, is splendidly 
fitted up. The first floor contains the reading-room (open on weekdays 9-12 
and 1-6; closed in the afternoon during the university vacations). The 
Salle Ami Lullik on the ground-floor, to the right of the entrance (open 
Sun. and Thurs., 1-4; at other times apply to the concierge; fee) contains 
valuable ancient and modern portraits of princes, reformers, and Gen- 
evese and French statesmen and scholars, chiefly of the time of the Refor- 
mation (Necker; Lafontaine; Descartes; Winckelmann, by A. Kavfmann; 
De Saussure; Turquet de Mayerne, attributed to Rubens; Ch. Bonnet, by 
Juehl; Sismondi; De Candolle, by Hornung; Humbert; Euler; D'Aubignil; 
Farel ; Beza ; Calvin ; Diderot ; Knox ; Zwingli ; Admiral Coligny ; Rabelais, 
etc.). This room also contains a collection of MSS., including autographs 
of Calvin and Rousseau. The most valuable MSS. are exhibited in glass 
cases : homilies of St. Augustine on papyrus (6th cent.) ; house-keeping 
accounts of Philip le Bel (1308); many with miniatures, some of them 
captured from Charles the Bold at Grandson (p. 202). On an old reading- 
desk is a French Bible (printed at Geneva in 1588), richly bound in red 
morocco, and bearing the arms of France and Navarre, which was destined 
by the Council of Geneva as a gift to Henry IV., but never presented 
owing to his abjuration of Protestantism. On the ground-floor is also the 
Cabinet of Coins; and on the sunk-floor is the Archaeological Museum, 
containing prehistoric and other antiquities, chiefly of local interest (Sun. 
and Thurs., 1-4). In the court is the Musie Epigraphique, a collection of 
Roman and mediaeval inscriptions found at Geneva. 

The Natural History Museum, admirably arranged by F. J. Pictet, 
contains the famous collection of conchylia of B. Delessert (formerly 
Duke Massena), which has been described by Lamarck ; Pictet's collection 
of fossils ; De Saussure's geological collection , described in his 'Voyages 
dans les Alpes' ; Melly's collection of about 35,000 coleoptera; a complete 
collection of the fauna of the environs of Geneva ; valuable rock-crystals 
from the Tiefengletscher (p. 117), presented by M. Revilliod, etc. — Ad- 
mission to the Museum on week-days (except Tues. and Sat.), 1-4, and 
Sun., 11-4, gratis ; at other times apply to the concierge (fee). 

To the N.W., in the Place Neuve (PI. B, 5) is an equestrian 
statue of Oen. Dufour (d. 1875), in bronze from a model by Lanz. 
On the W. side of the Place rises the *Theatre, designed by 
Goss, and erected in 1872-79, a handsome Renaissance building, 
with a facade enriched with columns and figures. The interior (with 
1300 seats), richly embellished with sculptures and mural paint- 
ings, deserves a visit (adm. on week-days 1-4). 

The *Musee Rath, opposite the theatre, a collection of pictures, 
casts, etc., was founded by the Russian general Rath, a native of 
Geneva , and presented to the city by his sisters. It has since been 
much extended. Adm. in summer, Mon., Wed., Thurs., and Frid. 
1-4, and Sun. 11-4, gratis; at other times, i/ 2 ir. (catalogue '/a &•)• 

Vestibule. In the centre, Borghese vase; on the right, busts of 
Keeker, bySoudon; Ch. Bonnet, by Jaquet; Sismondi, by Pradier; Humbert, 
by Dorciere; Jeremy Bentham, by David; Duke Charles II. of Brunswick 
(p. 213). Paintings: 122. Jeanneret, Vintage; 292. Hodler, Fable of the 
miller; 190. Roll, Cement-workers; 159. Melton, Dent d'Oche; 279. Baud- 
Bouvy, Wrestlers on the mountain-pasture ; 151. A. Lugardvn, The Eiger. 
Loft (Sali.k Pkadikk): Models and busts by Pradier; busts in bronze of 



MuseeRath. GENEVA. IV. Route 66. 217 

Pradier (by himself) and Dumont (by David); Venus de'Medici, by Bartolini; 
Sleeping boy, by Chittone. Paintings: 180. Ravel, Drawing -school; 170. 
Odier, Charles the Bold in the church at Nesle. Right (Salle Chaponnieke) : 
Principal door of the baptistery at Florence by Ghiberti; antique torso; 
Venus. Chaponniere: Greek captive, Hagar and Ishmael ; bronze statuettes 
of Rousseau and Mme. Roland; bust of Moliere, by Houdon; somnambulist, 
by Reymond; busts of Victor v. Bonstetten (p. 224), Gen. Dufour, etc. 

Picture Gallery. — Central Room. Entrance-wall : "32-35. Alex- 
andre Calame, of Vevey (1810-64), The Seasons. Left wall: 23. Bocion, 
Lake of Geneva near St. Saphorin ; 101. Guigon, View of the Rhone from 
St. Jean near Geneva; 1. Agasse, At the smithy; !: 217. Thuilier, Lake of 
Annecy; 147. Lugardon, Arnold von Melchthal; 47-50. Corot, Landscapes; 
146. Lugardon, Freeing of Bonivard; Humbert, "116. The ford, 117. Land- 
scape with cattle; 184. Robellaz, Tavern scene; 74. Dunant, Harvest; 311. 
Veillon, Sea of Tiberias; 82. Feyen-Perrin, 'Yanneuse' (girl winnowing 
corn); 107. Hornung, Calvin's farewell; 80. Favas, General Dufour; *289. 
George-Gulliard , Walensee ; 304. L. Robert, Italian brigands ; 64. Francois 
Diday, of Geneva (1802-77), Giessbach; 97. Grosclaude, The volunteer; 
"108. Hornung, The Eve of St. Bartholomew; 220. Tbpffer, Coming from 
church in winter; "31. Calame, Thunder-storm on the Handegg; 118. 
Huguenin, Landscape with cattle; 3. Agasse, Horse-fair; L. Robert, 186, 
187, Bernese and Italian girls, 188. Sacristy of S. Giovanni in Laterano 
at Rome; 150. Lugardon, Last day of a condemned criminal; Diday, 
"65. Lake of Lucerne, "36. Thunder-storm on the Handegg, 63. Pissevache, 
"62. Oaks in a storm, 61. Lake of Brienz; 2. Agasse, The repose; 185. 
Robellaz, Brawler. In the middle are a bust of General Rath and a stand 
with miniatures. 

Left Room. 246. Weenix, Dead game; 127. Largilliere, Portrait; 51. 
Coypel, Bacchus and Venus ; 172. Oudry, Dog and heron ; Velazquez, 239, 
240. Philip IV. of Spain and his consort Maria Anna of Austria, 241. 
Spanish minstrels; 248. P. Wouverman, Naval battle; 227. Van der Heist, 
Portrait; 96. Greuze, Child's head (a study); 197. Ryckaert and Molenaer, 
Flemish tavern; 165. Molenaer, Tavern scene; Salvator Rosa, 191, 192. Land- 
scapes ; Van Os, 232, 233. Fruit and flowers ; N. Berchem, 18. The prodigal 
son, 19. Abraham and Sarah; 216. Tenters, The smoker; 98. Guercino, 
Charity; 308. Teniert, The five senses ; 43. Phil, de Champaigne, Dead nun; 
244. P. Veronese, Entombment; 175, 176. Poelenburg, Landscapes; 130. Lebrun, 
Elias's offering. — In the adjoining Cabinet are portraits, mostly by 
Liotard (141, "142, 143). 

Right Room. To the left: 249. Ziegler, Wedding on board ship; "198. 
Sabon, Brook near Carouge; 55. Darier, Choristers; "283. Douzon, Winter 
landscape ; 20. Berthoud, Sorrento ; 40. Gastres, The relation of the prisoner 
of war (1871) ; A. Dumont , Return from the church ; 75. Durand , After 
the review; 303. Ritz , Village studies; 39. Castan, Autumn landscape; 
287. Furet, On the Aeschi-Allmend; 121. Jeanmaire, Pine forest; 297. 
Massip, The hour of repose; 300. Potter, Gulph of St. Raphael; Hibert, 
Baking cake; H. van Muyden, Alp; 92. /. Girardet, Flight of the Vendeans 
after the battle of Cholet; "296. Jacot-Guillarmod, Cows fighting; "Marie 
Ravel, Fruit; "284. Dufaux, Market-boat to Vevey; "171. Odier, Pond in 
Berry; 290. Gos, Before the storm; "6. Anker, Communal meeting in the 
Canton of Bern; 30. Ravel, Singing -lesson; 157. Menu, Landscape; 237. 
Vautier, Peasants carrying on a lawsuit; "94. Giron, Education of Bacchus; 
299. Palizieux, Return from the market; 12. Baud-Bovy, Portrait of Diday; 
13. Beaumont, the Tiber; S. Durand], Grandfather and grandchild; "77 
Duval, On the upper Nile; Rirolle, Landscape; 14. Beaumont, Sacrificial 
offering; 298. Monteverde, The surprise; 36. Arthur Calame, Vevey; 123. 
Roller, Cattle; 93. E. Girardet, Arab at prayer; E. de Pury, Strings of 
pearls; Fr. Diday, three landscapes; 291. Guinand, Roses; A. Bandit, 
Landscape; 91. Gaud, The last load; "281. Castres, Swiss battery on the 
march; 213. Stiickelberg, Swiss nun; 245. Vuillermet, Portrait; 231. Van 
Muyden, Pifferari; 24. Bodmer, Edge of the wood; 30. Burnand, Cattle 
yard; 29. Louise Breilau, The friends; 119. Ihli, Child's funeral; 126. 
Lawyer, Chateau in the Vendee; 238. Vautier, The sick mother; S. Durand, 



218 IV. Route 65. GENEVA. Mwee Arkma. 

Sunday afternoon on the Lake of Geneva ; 160. A. de Meuron, Morning in 
the High AlpB; 104. Htbert, After the escalade (p. 215). 

On the S.W. side of the Place Neuve is the Conservatoire de 
Musique , erected in 1858 ; behind it is the handsome Eglise du 
Sacre-Coeur. To the S. of this , between the Rue du Conseil-Ge*- 
neral and the Boulevard de Plainpalais , is the Bdtiment Electoral, 
bearing the motto of Geneva, 'post tenebras lux\ — Farther N., in 
the Boulevard de Plainpalais, is a Panorama of the Siege ofBelfort, 
by Berne - Bellecour (adm. 1 fr.); the side - building contains an 
interesting Relief of Geneva before the demolition of the fortifications 
in 1850 (adm. 50 c). — Beyond the Plaine de Plainpalais (drill- 
ground) on the Arve are situated the Barracks and the well- 
equipped Ecole de Medecine. In the neighbourhood, Chemin Dancet 
2 (PL A, 7), is the interesting Jardin Alpin a" Acclimatation, with 
a rich collection of European and Asiatic Alpine plants (for sale), 
open daily except Sun. (best time 8-10 a.m. and 5-8 p.m.). Director 
Mr. H. Correvon. 

Returning to the Place Neuve, we may now pass the Synagogue 
(PI. B, 4 ; to the W.) and cross the Pont de la Coulouvreniire (P1.B, 
3,4), the lowest of the Rhone bridges. Below the bridge are the new 
Waterworks (Forces Motrices du Rhdne) , with large water-wheels 
driven by the dammed-up water of the Rhone, which not only supply 
the houses of Geneva but afford motive power equal to 4200 horses 
for the use of manufactories. On the left, beyond the bridge, is the 
Promenade St. Jean (PI. B, 3), with a bronze bust of James Fazy 
(A. 1878), the Genevese statesman, by Rolland. We next pass the 
Ecole d'Horlogerie (not accessible), with the Musee des Arts Deco- 
ratifs (on the first floor; adm. daily, except. Sat., 11-4, Sun. 9-12), 
containing an important collection of engravings and the models of 
the Brunswick Monument (p. 213), the Ecole des Arts-Industriels, 
and the Place des Vingt-deux Cantons (p. 219), with the old-Catho- 
lic church of Notre-Dame, and soon reach the railway- station. 

About 2 l /i M. to the N.W. of the railway-station , at Varembi 
(steam-tramway for Ferney, from the Place des xxn Cantons to 
Pregny, 7 min., thence to the right in 5 min., see p. 219), is the 
*Musee Ariana, founded and bequeathed to the town by M. Gust. 
Revilliod (d.1890), a handsome Renaissance building, adorned with 
busts of celebrated artists and commanding a magnificent view of 
the lake and the Alps. (Adm. on Sun. 10-6, Wed., Thurs., and 
Sat. 12-6, gratis; Tues. and Frid., 1 fr., children 50c.) 

The imposing "Central Hall, with a double tier of marble columns, 
contains a group of Sleep and Death (in the centre) by Guglielmi, marble 
busts, vases, etc. The Central Corridor (right and left) is hung with 
valuable tapestry representing the history of Constantine the Great, after 
Rubens's designs; the ceiling-paintings (the seasons, etc.) are by Dufour. 
To the left of the hall are two Oriental Rooms, containing Asiatic porcelain, 
bronzes, inlaid work, ivory carvings, and European faience ; to the right are 
the collections of European porcelain, Etruscan vases, articles from Ale- 
mannic graves, etc. — Firtt Floor. On the staircase is a Chinese boudoir, 
and at the top, antique furniture, reproductions of the Hildesheim treasure, 



Ferney. GENEVA. IV. Route 65. 219 

weapons, and stained glass. The Pictube Gallery occupies four rooms 
on this floor. Boom I.: Portraits hy Guercino, Giorgione, Holbein, Rig mid. 
Bronzino , and others; in the centre, a small antique head of Venus. — 
Boom II.: Copy after Qu. Malsys, Tax-gatherers; Seb. del Piombo, Bearing 
of the Cross; Ribera, John the Baptist; Lucas van Leyden, Madonna; Fyt, 
Boar-hunt; "Raphael, Madonna of Vallombrosa; Madonnas by L. Credi, 
Van Dyck, and others. — Room III. contains chiefly flower-pieces, studies 
of still-life, and other small examples of the Netherlands school ; marble 
busts of M. Revilliod and his mother Ariana (ne'e De la Eive) by Duphot. — 
Boom IV.: Modern paintings. Lugardon, Matterhorn, Jungfrau, Swiss 
Confederates at the Riitli; Landscapes by Diday, Galame, Duval, Veillon, 
and Loppi; Cattle-pieces by Humbert, Agasse, and Delarive; Genre-scenes 
by Vautier, S. Durand, Bubio, Tbpffer, and others. — On the other side 
of the large hall are paintings by Horace Bevilliod; portraits, pastels, and 
drawings by early Genevese masters; engravings (10,000 plates); a hand- 
somely fitted library, with glass-cases containing interesting autographs; 
glass, ivory carvings, antique Genevese tinware; and the Silver Chamber, 
containing ornaments, coins, medals, enamels, etc. Fine view from the 
balcony. — In the grounds close to the museum is the sumptuous Tomb 
of Reviliod (see above). 

Environs of Geneva. An extensive system of Stuam Team- 
ways (Chemins de Fer a voie etroite) much facilitates a visit to the 
charming environs of Geneva, which axe studded with villas ami 
country-houses with beautiful gardens. The following lines were 
open in the spring of 1893. 

I. From Geneva to Ferney, 4>/2 M., fifteen times daily in 35 min., 
starting from the Place des XXII Cantons (p. 218). The tramway-line 
passes under the viaduct of the Paris, Lyons & Medit. line and follows the 
Gex road, halting at Voie Creuse, and (7 min.) Pregny, the station for the 
Ariana (5 min., see p. 218) and for ( 3 /4 M.) Baroness Adolph Rothschild's 
"Chateau (adm. on Tues. and Frid, 2-5 or 6, by tickets procured gratis 
at the hotels in Geneva), with a fine park and a pavilion commanding a 
magnificent view of Mont Blanc. — "We next pass the pretty villages of 
Petit- Sacconnex (to the left) and Grand-Sacconnex, and crossing the French 
frontier before the Tuilerie, reach (4'/^ M.) Ferney, officially Ferney- 
Voltaire (Truite ; Hdlel de France), a place of some size, founded by 
Voltaire in 1758. Opposite the station is a bronze "Statue of Voltaire 
('au patriarche de Ferney, 1694-1758-1778'), by E. Lambert, presented by 
the artist (1890). Following the street leading straight from the station, 
then turning to the left, we reach the (1/2 M.) Chateau erected by Voltaire, 
now containing various memorials of the founder (adm. iu summer on 
Mon., Wed., and Frid., 2-5; fee to the concierge). Over the former chapel 
is the well-known inscription: 'Deo erexit Voltaire'. The garden-terrace 
commands a beautiful view. — From Ferney an omnibus plies thrice 
daily (7.45 a, m., 2 and 7.30 p. m.) to (1 hr.) Gex (p. 224). 

II. From Geneva 10 Vernier, eleven times daily in 25 min. (from the 
Place des XXII Cantons, p. 218). The line runs to the N.W., passing the 
College de la Prairie (on the right), via Les Dilices, with Voltaire's country- 
house, and Les Charmilles. Beyond the hamlet of Chdtelaine, with the 
'Theatre Voltaire' (now a store), we pass the much-frequented Bois des 
Freres (on the left) and reach the prettily situated village of Vernier. The 
line is being prolonged via Bourdigny to the little town of St. Genix, in 
French territory. 

III. From Geneva to Chancy, six times daily in 1 hr. 13 min. (to 
Bernex 11 times daily in 34 min.; to Laconnex 9 times in 48 min.). Start- 
ing from the Quai de la Poste (PI. B, 4), the line follows the Boulevard 
de Plainpalais to the Panorama (p. 218), there turns to the right by the 
Route de St. Georges, and beyond the Abattoirs reaches the new Pont de 
St. Georges over the Arve. On the other side of the river a path ascends 
to the right to the Bois de la Batie (!•/< M. from Geneva), a plateau 



220 IV. Route 65. GENEVA. SaUvt. 

covered with woods and meadows (several Cafes), affording a fine survey 
of the town and environs. The blue water of the Rhone and the gray 
water of the Arve flow side by side without mingling for several hundred 
yards below their confluence. — From the bridge the tramway ascends 
to the station of Rampe Quidort, whence a short branch diverges to the 
Bois de la Batle and the Cemetery of St. George (trains on Sun. and Thurs. 
only in fine weather). Beyond Petit Lancy and Onex is (3'/a M.) Bernez 
(several restaurants), a considerable village whence the Signal de Berntx 
(1655' ; fine view) may be ascended in '/a hr. The following stations are 
Vally, Bizenove and (6 M.) Lac annex, a picturesque village, beyond which 
the line proceeds via Cartigny, Eau-Morte, Athenai, and Amity to the 
railway-station of Chancy (p. 252). 

IV. Fkom Geneva to Lanct, l 3 /* M., thirteen times daily, in 20 min. 
Starting from the Quai de la Poste (PI. B, 4), the line follows the 
Boulevard de Plainpalais and the shady Chemin des Terrassiers, passing 
the Plaine de Plainpalais. At the Temple de Plainpalais we turn to the 
right, cross the Pont d^Arve and traversing the quarter of Acacias, cross the 
Pont-Rouge to Lancy, with its attractive villas and a fine view of Geneva 
and the Saleve. 

V. Fkom Geneva to St. Jolien, 5'/2 M., sixteen times daily in */i hr. 
(to Carouge in 13 min.), starting from the Quai de la Poste (see above). 
Beyond the Pont d'Arve our line diverges to the left from that to Lancy, 
and reaches (1% M.) Carouge (1260'; Balance; Ecu de Savoie), a suburb 
(5700 inhab.) of Geneva, founded in 1780 by Victor Amadeus III. of Savoy, 
who attracted a number of Genevese artisans hither by the offer of 
special advantages. There are two stations: Grand-Bureau, at the N. 
end, and Carouge-Rondeau, at the S. end, near the terminus of the tram- 
way to Geneva and Annemasse (p. 259). Ascent of the Saleve, see below. 
■ — The tramway next passes Bachet-Pesay, Plan-les-Ouates, with the drill- 
ground and rifle range of the Geneva troops, Arare, and Perly, and 
reaches (5'/2 M.) St. Julien, a little French town, with 900 inhab., on 
the Aire, a station on the railway from Bellegarde to Bouveret (p. 252). 
About 1 M. to the W. are the picturesque ruins of the chateau of Ternier, 
captured in 1589 by Savoyard troops who hanged the defenders on a large 
chestnut-tree, which was destroyed by fire in 1873. — The Pitoni (460!/), 
the higher mountain adjoining the Saleve on the S.W., may be ascended 
from St. Julien via Beaumont in 3 hrs. 

VI. Fkom Geneva to Vetkiee, 3'/.j M., fifteen times daily, in 25 min., 
starting from the Cours de Rive (PI. D, 6). The line ascends, passing 
the Russian chapel, on the right, amid gardens and villas, to Floritiant. 
Thence it descends, with a pretty view of the Arve valley and the Saleve 
to the right, crosses the Arve between the hamlets of Villette and Sterne, 
and reaches Vevrier i*H6t. Beau-Sijour) , a village prettily situated at the 
foot of the Saleve, with a large Rom. Cath. girls' school. 

Veyrier is the best starting-point for the ascent of the 'Saleve, a long 
hill of limestone rock to the S.E. of Geneva. The N. end is called the 
Petit-Saleve (2950'), adjoining which are the Grand-Saleve (4290') and the 
Petit and Grand Piton (see above). The finest point of view is the Grand- 
Saleve, whence we survey the Mont Blanc chain, the Lake of Geneva, the 
Jura, the cantons of Geneva and Vaud, and part of France. — The route 
descends to the left from the station at Veyrier, crosses (7 min.) the rail- 
way at the foot of the mountain , and ascends the Pas de VEchelle (elec- 
tric tramway under construction) to ('/« hr.) Monnetier (2336' ; "Htt.-Pens. 
de la Reconnaissance ; "H6t. du Ch&ieau de Monnetier ; Chalet de Monnetier ; 
Pern, des Plalanes; Mdt.-Pens. Trotlel; H6t. Belvedere), situated in a depres- 
sion between the Petit and Grand-Saleve. In the neighbourhood are the 
Balmes de VErmitage, a series of grottoes offering pretty views of the 
Lake of Geneva. From this point the Petit-Saleve is ascended in >/a nr> i 
the Grand-Saleve in 1% hr., by a good bridle-path (electric railway see 
below). About '/« ^ r - below the summit is the Auberge des Treite Arbru 
(3840 1 ). — Another route leads from Carouge (p. 220) in 2y 2 hrs. to the 
Grand-Saleve. By the tramway terminus a finger-post indicates the road 
to (»/« hr.) Bossey or Crevin to the left. Where the road divides we always 



Voirons. GENEVA. IV. Route 65. 221 

keep to the left till we reach the railway - embankment, under which we 
pass; we then ascend the Grande Gorge hy a path which reaches the 
plateau inl 3 /4 hr. 

Electric Railway (opend in 1893) to the Grand Saleve from Etrem- 
bieres, 5 M. from Geneva (p. 259; reached either hy railway via Annemasse 
in 40 min., or by tramway, several times daily in 50 min. ; fare 60 c). 
The line ascends in 55 min. (fare 3 fr. 10 c.) via, Mornex (1805 1 ; "Hit.-Pens. 
Bellevue, above the village, with a full view of the Alps; "Bit. Beau-Site; 
H6t. de Savoie; "Pension Bain, in the old chateau, etc.), a charming village 
on the S. slope of the Petit-Saleve, visited as a health-resort, and Monne- 
tier (p. 220) to its terminal station, near the Aub. des 13 Arbres (p. 220). 

On the left or E. bank of the lake a picturesque walk (tramway see 
below) may be taken along the Quai des Eaux-Vives, planted with plane- 
trees to (3 M.) Vesenaz (Garden Restaurants by the lake, in La Belolte); 
return to (3'/2M.) Geneva viaCologny (Chalet Suisse ; Cafi desAlpes), with 
a charming view of the lake, or farther to the E. via Vandceuvres and 
Chougny (see below), with a fine survey of Mont Blanc. 

VII. Feom Geneva to Douvaine, four times daily in IV4 hr. (to Corsier 
eleven times, in 40 min.). Starting from the Cours de Rive, the line follows 
the Quai des Eaux-Vives (see above) as far as Ruth, ascends to the right 
to La Belotte and Visenaz (Hot. Vesenaz ; Hot. Coutty), above the villages 
of these names (see above), and traverses a monotonous plain (view of the 
Alps to the right) via Corsier and Teigy to Aubonne, with a nunnery, and 
Douvaine (Croix d'Or, Poste), a small French town, pleasantly situated. To 
the right on a hill covered with vines is the handsome chateau of Ballaison. 

VIII. Pkom Geneva to Jussr, six times daily in 50 min. (to Vandceuvres 
12 times in 25 min.). The line starts from the the Cours de Rive, ascends 
via. Chougny to Vandceuvres, with a fine view of the Alps, and descends 
via Crete, Chonlex- Chewier, Prisinge, and Sionnet to Jussy, a pretty village 
situated at the W. foot the Voirons, which may be ascended hence via 
St. Cergues in 31/2 hrs. (see below). 

The long range of the "Voirons, to the N.E. of Geneva, commanding 
a superb view of the Alps of Savoy, the Jura Mts., etc., is another favourite 
point. Railway (Geneva and Eaux-Vives Station, p. 209) via. Annemasse 
(p. 259) to (50 min.) Bons-St. Didier; thence a drive of 3 hrs., or a walk of 
2>/2 hrs. to the summit. In summer omnibus from Bons-St. Didier to the 
top on three afternoons weekly (Mon., Wed. , Sat.) in 3 hrs. (4 fr., one- 
horse carr. 10 fr.). On the E. slope, 100' below the summit, is the "Hotel 
de VErmitage (pens. 6-8 fr. ; frequented hy the French), in the midst of 
pine-wood, visited as a health resort; and 10 min. below it is the "H6t. 
Chalets des Voirons (pens. 8-12 fr.). Charming walks to the (10 min.) pavilion 
on the Calvaire, or Grand Signal, the highest point (4875') ; to the (20 min.) 
old monastery (4590') on the N.W. slope ; to the Crete d'Audoz, an eminence 
l k hr. to the S.W.; and to the (1 hr.) Pralaire (4630'), the S. peak. 

Ascent of the "DSle from Geneva, 7 J /2 hrs., see p. 224. 

66. From Geneva to Martigny via Lausanne and 
Villeneuve. Lake of Geneva (North Bank). 

81 M. Railway in 43/ 4 -6 hrs. (to Lausanne 1V2-2V«, to Vevey 21/,- 
31/4 hrs.); fares 13 fr. 35, 9 fr. 35, 7 fr. 70 c. (to Lausanne 6 fr. 35, 4fr. 45, 3fr. 
20c; to Vevey 8fr. 35, 5 fr. 85, 4fr. 20c). Return-tickets from Geneva to 
St. Maurice, and from Bouveret to Brig, are available for two days, and 
may be used for the steamers, and vice versd. 

Steamboats along the Nokthekn Bank, far preferable to the railway : to 
Morges (4fr., 1 fr. 70c) in 2»/2 hrs. ; to Ouchy (for Lausanne, 5fr., 2 fr.) in 
3 hrs. ; to Vevey (6 fr. 50, 2 fr. 70 c.) in 31/4-4 hrs. ; to Villeneuve (7>/2 fr., 
3fr.) in 4V2-4»/4 hrs.; to Bouveret (71/2 ft'., 3 fr.) in 4'/4-5 hours. Return- 
tickets for three days at a fare and a half, available also for returning by 
railway, but not unless specially asked for. The cabin-tickets are available 



222 IV. Route 66. LAKE OF GENEVA. 

for the second class only ; if the holder desires to travel first class he may 
obtain a supplementary ticket from the guard. Steamboat-stations on the 
N. bank (all with piers): Bellevue, Versoix, Mies, Coppel, Ciligny, Nyon, 
Rolle, St. Prex, Morges, Bt. Sulpice, Ouehy (Lausanne), Pully, Lutry, Cully, 
Rivaz-St. Saphorin, Corsier (near the Grand H3tel de Vevey), Vevey-Marchi, 
Vevey-la Tour, Clarens, Montreux-Vernex, Territet-Chillon, Villeneuve.Bou- 
veret. The express steamers leaving Geneva (Quai du Montblanc) at 9 a.m. 
and 1.25 p.m. touch at the following stations only: Nyon, Thonon and 
Evian on the S. bank, Ouchy, "Vevey, Clarens, Montreux, Territet, Ville- 
neuve, and Bouveret. — Several steamboats also ply daily between the N. 
and S. banks (Nyon-Nernier, Nyon-Thonon, Evian-Ouchy). — Good restau- 
rants on board the larger steamers (D. 2>/2-3 fr.); those on the smaller 
boats are mediocre. 

The *Iake of Geneva (12300, Fr. Lac Leman, Gei. Genfer See, 
the Lacus Lemanus of the Romans, is 45 M. in length, upwards of 
8 M. broad between Morges and Amphion, and l!/ 2 M. between the 
Pointe de Genthod and Bellerive ; 250' deep near Chillon , 940' 
near Meillerie, 1099' between Ouchy and Evian (deepest part), and 
240' between Nyon and Geneva. The area is about 225 sq. M., 
being 15 sq. M. more than that of the Lake of Constance. In shape 
the lake resembles a half moon, with the horns turned towards the 
S. and this form is most distinctly observed from the Signal de 
Bougy (p. 224). The E. horn formerly extended 9 M. farther to- 
wards Bex , but the deposits of the Rhone have gradually filled up 
this part of the lake, and are daily extending this alluvial tract. 

The deep-blue Colour of the Lake of Geneva differs from that of the 
other Swiss lakes , which are all more or less of a greenish hue. This 
blue tint was supposed by Sir Humphrey Davy (who lived some years at 
Geneva, and died there in 1828) to be due to the presence of iodine, 
but the cause of the phenomenon has never been actually ascertained. 
The Birds which haunt the lake are wild swans (Cycnus olor), the de- 
scendants of tame birds introduced at Geneva in 1838, gulls (Larus nVK- 
bundus), sea-swallows (Sterna Mrundo), and numerous birds of passage, 
such as ducks and divers. There are twenty-one different kinds of Fish, 
the most esteemed of which are the trout, the 'Hitter', the 'Fera' (Core- 
gonus; the 'Felchen' of the Lake of Constance), and the perch. 

The Vegetation of the banks partakes to some extent of a southern 
character. Side by side grow the sweet and the wild chestnut-tree, the 
magnolia, the trumpet-wood, the cedar of Lebanon, and trellised vines. 
Figs and pomegranates are also of frequent occurrence, but only the former 
reach maturity. 

A phenomenon frequently observed on the Lake of Geneva, and some- 
times on other lakes also, consists in the so-called 'Seiches', or fluctua- 
tions in the level of the water, which within a few minutes rises or falls 
several inches or even feet above or below its usual level. These seiches 
are caused by any sudden alteration in the atmospheric pressure and most 
commonly occur after storms, being in fact analogous to the ground-swell 
of the ocean. The seiches longitudinals*, or those running from one end 
of the lake lo the other, usually take abrjut 73 min. to travel from Ville- 
neuve to Geneva, while the seiches transversales cross from the Swiss to 
the Savoy side in 10 minutes. The highest longitudinal swell on record 
was observed at Geneva on 3rd Oct. 1841, measuring over 6 ft. in height, 
while the transverse swell rarely exceeds 8 inches in height. (F. A. Forel.) 

The Level of the lake is lowest at the end of winter, and highest in 
summer during the melting of the snow on the Alps. The average dif- 
ference between high and low water is about 5 ft., while the difference 
between the highest (1817) and lowest (1830) recorded levels amounts to 
nearly 9 ft. — The Temperature of the lake varies from 45° in winter 



Wa. j feiv.1 <'■ jiQ.i: 






■ !^ 



Ox 

11^ 



Jehahiij 






, S|BE5IS 



hpetJBblotMi! 






-'-it 






iris** .,„ 



:(ii.M,, 



aKHn „ 




j f 3*«i«le« 






Jfafadatrt 



I>W 






&/.«, 



'ifoirettfS 



■>' .1 A A' 4,1V ■'V ^feiipjaSBSJSW 

leJUtriir ,.-*£* ** "' f v Kj ■ r~^lff,fll»:)rdp'- ^ , „ if ",'H£ M " , " L- ''.; ,. . . t 

, Benie: 




3Ion.tr e 






■TOolatn**/ 



W^Wv\ ^/^r-^Ss^"* JSS^^S*^ .. 







>-W T^v 







/ fCtTWCOJC 



liinte lie Sro"^ # -J J 



3 ..^.^l 






Mffv 



MOW 



*&atre 

¥ f 



■ .....i / I-'— 






, j , i — ■ s = i Momitnj ilaasstab 1:350,000 



■■n — i I English' miles 



VERSOIX. IV. Route 66. 223 

to 75° or even 85° in summer, while in the deeper parts it never rises 
above 42-44". The lake has never been known to freeze over entirely. 

The Navigation is inconsiderable, but large barges of 300 tons' burden 
are occasionally seen. The graceful lateen-sail used here, and rarely seen 
elsewhere except on the Mediterranean, has a very picturesque appearance. 

The lake has for centuries been a favourite theme with writers of all 
countries — Byron, Voltaire, Rousseau, Alex. Dumas, and many others. 
On the N. side the deep-blue water is bounded by gently sloping hills, 
richly clothed with vineyards and orchards, and enlivened with numerous 
smiling villages. To the E. and S. a noble background is formed by 
the long chain of the mountains of Valais and Savoy, of which the 
higher ground on the N. bank affords a good survey ; but Mont Blanc 
itself is visible from the W. bank only, from Geneva, Nyon, nolle, and 
particularly from Morges (p. 225). 

Steamboat Joukney (piers by the Jardin Anglais and the Quai 
du Montblanc; comp. p. 209). The banks of the lake are clothed 
with rich vegetation and studded with charming villas. On the 
left, the large Hotel National, the Musee Ariana, and the finely 
situated chateau of Pregny (p. 219) ; farther on, Genthod, prettily 
situated, once the residence of the famous naturalists De Saussure, 
Oh. Bonnet, and Pictet de la Rive. The steamer stops at Bellevue. 

Versoix (Lion d'Or), a considerable village (1379 inhab.), once 
belonged to France. Choiseul, the minister of Louis XV., being 
hostile to Geneva, contemplated founding a rival city here, and the 
streets were mapped out, but the design was afterwards abandoned. 

Coppet (Croix Blanche; Ange; Hot.-Pens. duLac). The chateau, 
now the property of M. d'Haussonville, was inhabited from 1790 
till 1804 by Necker, a native of Geneva , who became minister of 
finance to Louis XVI. His daughter, the celebrated Mme. de Sta'il, 
also resided at the chateau for some years. Her writing-table, her 
portrait by David, and a bust of Necker are shown to visitors. 

From Coppet (carr. at the station) a road leads by Commugny and 
Chavannes de Bogis to (3'/2 M.) Divonne (1543'; excellently fitted up hy- 
dropathic estab.), charmingly sitnated beyond the French frontier in the 
Pays de Oex (from Nyon 5 M., diligence in connection with the express 
trains in 55 min. ; from Geneva 12 M., carr. in l'/z hr., with one horse 15-18, 
with two horses 25 fr.). Ascent of the Dole from Divonne, see p. 224. 

Celigny is prettily situated on a hill a little way inland. Farther on 
is the handsome chateau of Crans, belonging to Herr Van Berchem. 

Nyon (*Beaurivage , with terrace on the lake; *Ange , pens. 
5-6 fr. ; Hotel du Lac) was the Colonia Julia Equestris , or Novio- 
dunum, of the Romans (4225 inhab.). The ancient castle, with walls 
10' thick, and five towers, built in the 16th cent. , and now the prop- 
erty of the town, was once occupied by Victor v. Bonstetten(d. 1832), 
the author, who was frequently visited here by eminent Swiss savants. 
The terrace and the pleasant promenades of the upper part of the 
town afford a beautiful view of the lake, the Jura, and the Alps, 
with Mont Blanc. Several relics of the Roman period still exist here. 

Ascent of the Dole, very interesting. A high-road (diligence) leads 
from Nyon through the Jura by (1 hr.) TrUex, (2 hrs.) St. Cergues, and 
(2 hrs.) Les Pousses, a small French frontier fort, to (1 hr.) Morez, a little town 
in the French department of Jura. Walkers ascend from Nyon in 2 1 /* hrs. 
to St. Cergues (3432'; B6tcl de laPoite; °H6t.-Pens. Capt; 'Pension Auberson ; 



224 IV. Route 66. ROLLE. 

Observaloire Amat, a hotel and pension on a height, 5 min. to the E., with 
a splendid view of the Lake of Geneva and Mont Blanc), a village and 
summer resort in a. green valley at the N.E. base of the Dole, two-thirds 
of the way from the top. The traveller should drive from Nyon as far 
as the beginning of the well-shaded old road, l'/j M. beyond Trglex, 
which follows the telegraph-wires, and ascends straight to St. Cergues 
(3 31.). From St. Cergues (guide 5 fr.) we ascend to the (1 hr.) Chalet du 
Vouavne, and through the depression (La Porte) between the Vonarne 
and the Dole, to the (1 hr.) top of the "Dole (5505'), the highest summit 
of the Swiss Jura. The view (best in the afternoon) is picturesque and 
extensive, and Mont Blanc is seen in all its majesty. — From Oingins, 
I1/2 M. to the W. of Trelex, a good road_ leads to the (772 M.) Chalets de la 
Divonne, V2 h r - from the top of the Dole. — Another route leads by La 
Rippe, 33/4 M. from Celigny (p. 223), and I1/2 M. from Divonne (p. 223), 
and before reaching ( 3 /< M.) Venddme, enters the broad path (to the right) 
through the wood, which after 3 M. joins the road from Gingins. — The 
best route for pedestrians from Geneva (Y'/2 hrs. to the summit of the 
Dole) is by the Col de la Faucille, a deep depression in the Jura chain, 
to the N.W. of Geneva. Steam tramway to Ferney see p. 219; omnibus 
theuce in 1 hr. to Gex (2120'; Hot. de la Poste; Hot. du Commerce), a small 
French town, at the foot of the Jura, whence we proceed (shorter by the 
old road) to the (2hrs.) Col de la Fuwcille (4355'; -Hot. Regade). We keep 
to the road (to Morez, p. 223) for l'/i hr. more, finally diverging to the 
right beyond the La Vasserode inn, whence we ascend to the summit 
in IV2 hr. 

Diligence from Les Roasses (see p. 223) to Le Brassus, to the Lac de 
Joux, and Le Pont, a pleasant route (comp. p. 209). 

Farther on, among trees, is the chateau of Prang ins, formerly 
occupied by Joseph Bonaparte. A great part of the estate of La Ber- 
gerie, or Chalet de Prangins, which once belonged to him, was after- 
wards the property of Prince Je'rome Napole'on (d. 1891). The old 
chateau itself now contains a Moravian school for boys. 

On a promontory lies Promenthoux, and on the opposite (Savoyard) 
bank, 3 M. distant, Yvoire (p. 245). The Jura Mts. gradually recede; 
the most conspicuous peaks are the Dole (see above), and to the right 
of it the Noir-Mont (5118'). The lake forms a bay between the mouth 
of the Prornenthouse and the Aubonne (p. 234) beyond Rolle , and 
here attains its greatest width. The banks of this bay, called La 
Cote, yield one of the best Swiss white wines. 

Rolle (*Tete Noire, plain, with garden; Couronne), the birth- 
place of the Russian general De la Harpe, tutor of Enip. Alexanderl., 
and one of the most zealous advocates for the separation of Canton 
Vaud from Bern (1798). An islet in the lake contains an Obelisk 
to his memory. 

On a vine-clad hill, 1 hr. to the N. of Rolle, above the village of Botigy, 
is the "Signal de Bougy (2335'), a famous point of view, which commands 
the lake, the Savoy Mts., and Mont Blanc. The best way to it is from 
stat. Aubonne-Allaman (p. 234) by omnibus or on foot to (2>/4 M.) Aubonne 
(-Couronne), a very old and picturesque little town, with numerous gardens, 
a beautiful avenue, and pleasant public grounds, and thence on foot to the 
top in less tlian an hour. — About 5 M. to the W. of Aubonne, and 
51/2 M. to the N. of Rolle, is Orimel (2395'; Union, pens, from 5 fr.), with 
beautiful wood-walks, a favourite summer resort of the Genevese. 

A road (diligence to St. Georges daily) leads from Rolle to the N.W. 
by Gilly, Burtigny, and Longirod to (!) M.) St. fleonji-s (3067^; Inn) and over 
the (I M.) Col de Marchairuz 07ui'; Inn) to (\',-i M.) 



Le Brassus (p. 209). 




Grave et imp rune pa 




Wagner fcDebes , Leipzig 



to Martigny. LAUSANNE. IV. Route 66. 225 

On the way from St. Georges to the col, we enjoy charming views of the 
Lake of Geneva and the Rhone Valley down to the Fort de l'Ecluse, and 
beyond the col we overlook the Lac de Joux and the Dent de Vaulion. 

The bank of the lake between Rolle and Lausanne is somewhat 
flat. On a promontory lies the village of St. Prex ; then, in a wide 
bay, Morges (*H6t. du Port; *H6t. du MontUanc, pens, from 5 fr.; 
Couronne), a busy little town (pop. 4088), with a harbour and an 
old chateau now used as an arsenal. The mediaeval chateau of Vuf- 
flens, on a height at some distance to the N., is said to have been 
erected by Queen Bertha (p. 207). From Morges we obtain a fine 
view of *Mont Blanc in clear weather through a valley on the S. bank. 
The steamer next reaches the station of St. Sulpice, and then — 

Ouchy (1230'), formerly called Rive, the port of Lausanne. 

'Hotel Beaueivage, with pleasant garden, baths, etc., R., L., & A. from 
6-7, D. 5 fr.; "Hot. du Chateau, near the stemboat pier, new, with splen- 
did view from the tower (lift) ; *H6t. d'Angleteere, R., L., & A. 2 l /2-3, 
B. I.1/2, D. 4 fr. ; Hot. du Pokt, plain; all on the lake. Pens, du Chalet, 
Avenue Reseneck. — Lake Baths, two establishments, one '/iS. to the 
W., the other 1/4 M. to the E. of the landing-place; bath 80 c, including 
towels, etc. — Boat 60 c. per hour, or with boatman f/2 fr. 

The Railway Station of the Jura-Simplon line (p. 234) is 3 /t M. from 
Ouchy, and Lausanne lies fully l fa M. higher. Cable Railway (commonly 
called Ficelle) from Ouchy to Lausanne in 9 min. (station at Ouchy near 
the steamboat quay ; station at Lausanne, called 'Gare du Flon\ under the 
Grand-Pont; 42 trains daily; fare 50 or 25 c, return-ticket 80 or 40 c. - 
intermediate stations Jordils and Sle. Luce ('Gare'), the latter near the 
Jura-Simplon station. — Porterage of small articles to or from the steamer 
10 c, trunk 20c, if over lOOlbs. 30c. 

Lausanne. — 'Hotel Gibbon (PI. a; F, 4), opposite the post-office, R., 
L., <fc A. 4-6, B. l'/2, lunch 3 ] /2, D. 5 fr. ; in the garden behind the dining; 
room the historian Gibbon wrote the concluding portion of his great work 
in 1787. "Hot. Riche-Mont (PI. b; D, E, 5), with pleasant grounds, R., L., & 
A. 4-5, D. 41/2 fr. ; Taucon (PI. c ; F, 3), R., L., & A. 4, B. I1/2, D- 4, pens, 
from 6 fr. ; Hot. du Grand-Pont (PI. d; E, 4), near the bridge, R., L., & A. 
3 3 / 4 , B. I1/4. D. 3»/2fr. ; *H6t.-Pens. Beau-Site (PI. e; D, 4), R., L., & A. 
from 3, 1). 6, B. l^fr.; "Hot. -Pens. Victoria, Avenue deRumine; "Hot. 
do Nord (PI. f ; F, 3, 4), Rue St. Pierre, with restaurant, R., L., & A. 3, B. 
l'A, D. 3 fr.; Hotel Bellevue; Hot. des Messageeies, Place St. Francois 4; 
Hot. de la Poste, Petit Chene 4. — Hot. Terminus, at the Jura-Simplon 
station, new. — Pensions : Beausijour, Campari (Avenue du Theatre), Mer- 
canton (Rue du Midi), Ferret, Etraz, Pittet (at St. Luce, see above; 5fr. per 
day, incl. R.), and many others. — Restaurants: Ildtel du Nord, Edtel du 
Grand-Pont, see above; Restaur, du Thi&tre (see below); Deriaz, Place St. 
Laurent ; Rail. Restaurant, D. 2>/2 fr. ; Cafi Vaudois, Place de la Riponne 3 ; 
Gambrinus (beer), Rue Haldimand, near the Place de la Riponne; Bavaria, 
Rue de Bourg. — Theatee (PI. f ; open in winter only), Avenue du Theatre 
(with cafe"). 

Omnibus from the station into the town 1 fr. ; to the steamboat at 
Ouchy, only if ordered. — Cabs : with one horse V2 nr - 1 f''- 50, with two 
horses 3 fr. ; 1 hr., 3 and 5; 172hr., 4 and 7; 2hrs., 5 and 9 fr. ; from 
Lausanne to Ouchy 2 and 4, to the rail, station l>/a and 3, from Ouchy to 
the rail, station 2 and 4 fr. — Booksellers, with lending library, etc.: Benda, 
Rue Centrale 3; Th. Roussy, F. Payol, both Rue de Bourg. — Pianos, music: 
E. R. Spies, Place St. Francois 2. 

English Chukch, Avenue de Grancy. Scottish Free Church, Rue Ru- 
mine. Wesleyan Church, Rue du Valentin, Place de la Riponne. 

Lausanne (1690'; pop. 34,049), the Lausonium of the Romans, 

Baedeker, Switzerland. 15th Edition. 15 



226 IV. Route 66. LAUSANNE. From Geneva 

now the capital of the Canton de Vaud, occupies a beautiful and 
commanding situation on the terraced slopes of Mont Jorat, over- 
shadowed by its cathedral on one side, and its castle on the other. 
The interior of the town is less prepossessing. The streets are hilly 
and irregular, and the houses in the older part are poor ; but the 
new quarters contain a number of handsome houses. The two 
quarters are connected by the handsome Orand-Pont (135 yds. long), 
erected in 1839-44, also named Pont Pichard after its builder. The 
valley of the Flon , spanned by the bridge, has been largely filled 
up and cultivated. A nearly level street, passing the castle and 
cathedral, skirts the town and leads under the castle to the N. by a 
tunnel, 50 paces long. Lausanne possesses many excellent schools. 

The *Cathedral (PI. E, 2; Prot.), erected in 1235-75, is a 
simple but massive Gothic edifice. In 1875-87 it was judiciously 
restored from plans by Viollet-le-Due (d. 1879). The terrace on 
which it stands is approached from the market-place (Place de la 
Palud) by a flight of 160 steps. The church is open in summer on 
week-days 9-12 and 1-4; at other hours, adm. 50 c, each person 
more 30 c. Bell for the sacristan by the entrance. 

The -Intekioe (352' long, 150' wide) is remarkable for its symmetry 
of proportion. The vaulting of the nave, 66' in height, is supported by 
20 clustered columns of different designs. Above the graceful triforium 
runs another arcade, which serves as a framework for the windows. The 
choir contains a semicircular colonnade. In the arcades of the choir-ambula- 
tory appears an ancient form of pilaster, a relic of the Burgundian- 
Romanesque style. The beautiful but sadly damaged rose-window and the 
sculptured portals also merit inspection. (The W. portal is in a ruinous 
condition; the S. portal was restored in 1884.) Above the centre of the 
church rises a slender tower (245'), erected in 1874. The finest Monuments 
are those of Otto of Grandson who fell in 1398 in a judicial duel with 
Gerard von Estavayer (hands on the cushion, a symbol of the ban; 
statue accidentally deprived of its hands); Bishop Guillaume de Men- 
thonex (d. 1406) ; the Russian Princess Catherine Orloff (d. 1782) ; the Duchess 
Caroline of Courland (d. 1783) ; Henrietta Stratford-Canning (d. 1818), first 
wife of Lord Stratford de Redcliffe, then ambassador in Switzerland (by 
Bartolini) ; Countess Wallmoden Gimborn (d. 1783), mother of the Baroness 
of Stein, the wife of the celebrated Prussian minister. A tablet on the wall 
of the N. transept near these monuments bears the inscription : 'A la mi- 
moire du major I. D. A. Davel, mort sur Vichafaud en 1723, le 2i avril, 
martyr des droits et de la liberie" du peuple vaudois\ a tribute paid to his 
memory by Gen. De la Harpe (p. 224), who effected that for attempting 
which Davel was beheaded as a traitor. — In 1536 a famous Disputation 
took place in this church, in which Calvin, Farel, and Viret participated, 
and which resulted in the separation of Vaud from the Romish Church, 
and the overthrow of the supremacy of Savoy. 

The Terrace (1735'), formerly the churchyard, commands the town, 
the lake, and the Alps of Savoy ; and the prospect from the terrace of 
the old episcopal Palace (Evlche; now occupied by the cantonal 
authorities), higher up, is also very fine. The Bishop's Hall contains 
old carved furniture and stained glass windows. In the Place du 
Chateau is the new Ecole de Chimie. 

The Cantonal Museum (PL E, 2; Wed. and Sat. 10-4, Sun. 
11-2 o'clock), in the College near the cathedral, contains natural 



to Martigny. LAUSANJNK IV. Route 66. 227 

history collections, a valuable collection of fresh-water conchylia, 
presented by M. de Charpentier (d. 1855), relics from Aventicum 
(p. 207) and Vidy , the ancient Lausanne, interesting Celtic anti- 
quities from lake-dwellings, coins, medals, etc. The same building 
contains the Cantonal Library (120,000 vols.). 

The Musee Arlaud (PL D, 3; Sun., 11-2, Wed. and Sat. 10-4; 
at other times, 50 a), founded by an artist of that name in 1846, in 
a building in the Rip onne opposite the corn-hall (Grenette), con- 
tains a small picture gallery. 

Among the most interesting paintings are: DomenicMno, Joseph's 
Dream; Caracci , Joseph cast into the pit. — Modern paintings: Anker, 
New-horn child; Bocion, Tug-steamer; Burnand, Village on fire; Calame, 
Lake of Brienz; Diday, Rosenlaui, Fall of the Reichenbach; Girardet, Re- 
turn from the mountain-pasture; Gleyre, Execution of Major Davel (p. 226), 
Adam and Eve, Divico's victory over the Romans, etc.; Jouvenel, Healing 
of the leper ; Roller, Cattle-pond ; Mvyden, Hide-and-seek ; Vautier, Sabbath 
morning; etc. 

On the Montbenon, a hill immediately to the W. of the town, 
•planted with fine avenues, and affording a charming view of the 
lake, is situated the handsome new Palais de Justice Federal, or su- 
preme court of appeal for the whole of Switzerland. 

The admirably organised Blind Asylum (Asile des Aveugles), 
to the W. of the town (PL A, 3), was founded by Mr. Haldimand 
(d. 1862), who amassed a fortune in England, and Miss Cerjat. — 
In the Champ de I' Air, to the N.E., the highest point in the town, 
are the well-arranged Hopital Cantonal (250 beds), a Station Viti- 
cole (vine-growing) and Meteorologique, and an Ecole d' Agriculture. 
— At Cery, 2 M. to the N., on the line to Echallens (see below), 
is the handsome Lunatic Asylum, one of the largest and best on 
the continent, containing a chapel, concert-room, etc. 

The *Signal (2125'), Vs nr ' above the town, is a famous point of view. 
From the post-office to the castle >/< hr. ; then cross the Place de la Barre 
(PI. E, i) and follow the road straight on for about 100 paces ; ascend to 
the right by a paved path, and thence by a flight of steps on the left to the 
carriage-road ; follow this to the right till the hut with the trigonometrical 
pyramid and grounds are seen on the right. (This point may also be reached 
by a broad path diverging from the road to the right.) The view embraces 
a great part of the lake, the Diablerets, Grand Moeveran, etc.; Mont Blanc 
is not visible from this point, but is seen from the Grandes Roches (1/2 hr. 
from the town, to the right of the Yverdon road). — A pleasant way back 
from the Signal is through the wooded valley of the Flon, on the E. side 
of the hill, and then by the Rue des Eaux to the Place de la Barre. Cab 
from the town to the Signal, and thence to the station, 5 fr. 

From Lausanne to Beechee, 12'/2 M., a local narrow-gauge railway 
(1 hr. 27 min.). The lunatic asylum mentioned above is near (2 M.) Jouxtens- 
Cery, the second station. 8 3 /4 M. Ecliallens (20K4' ; 10S9 inhab. ; "Balances) 
is a thriving little town, with an old castle now used as a boys' school. 
From (12V2 M.) Bercher the line is to be extended to Payerne (p. 207). 

The slopes rising to the E. of Lausanne are named La Vaux, and 
yield good wine. Above the station of Pully, on the hillside, is the 
lofty viaduct crossing the PaudHe (p. 206), below which is the bridge 
of the Martigny Railway (p. 234); above Lutry is the viaduct near 
La Conversion, mentioned at p. 206. The amphitheatre of mountains 

15* 



228 IV. Route 66. VEVEY. From Geneva 

becomes grander as the steamboat advances : the Rochers de Verraux, 
Dent de Jaman, Rochers de Naye, Tour d'A'i, Tour de Mayen, Dent 
de Morcles, and Dent du Midi ; between these, to the S., Mont Ca- 
togne, and in the background the snowy pyramid of Mt. Velan. 
Stations : Cully and Rivaz-St. Saplwrin. 

Vevey, Ger. Vivis, the Vibiscus of the Romans. 

Steamboat Piers: (1) Corsier, to the W., near the Grand Hotel de 
Vevey, (2) Vevey-Marche", at the town itself; (3) Vevey-La Tour, to the E. 
near the Grand Hotel du Lac. — Railway Station on the N. side of the 
town, on the left bank of the Veveyse. For excursions to the E. (Mon- 
treux, etc.) the station of La Tour de Peilz (p. 230) is more convenient. 

Hotels. *Grand Hot. de Vevey, at Corsier, to the W. of the town, with 
lift, large grounds, swimming and other baths (closed in winter) ; *H6tel 
Monnet (des Trots Couronnes) ; "Grand Hot. du Lac ; these three hotels, 
all on the lake, are large and comfortahle : R., L., & A. from 5, D. 5 fr. ; 
pension from 15th Oct. to 1st May. To the E. of the town, -Hot. Mooser 
(p. 230). — °H6t.-Pens. du Chateau, to the E. of Monnet's, with shady 
garden and lake-view, pens. 6-12 fr.; *H6t.-Pens. d'Angleterre, R., L., & 
A. 3-4, D. 3, pens. 572-8 fr., on the lake; 'Hotel du Pont, at the station, 
with garden; j Trois Rois, moderate, not far from the station, R. & A. 
21/2, B. 1, D. 3 fr. ; *Hot.-Pens. de Famille , opposite the station, E. 
H/2-2, pens. 31/2-4 fr. ; "Hotel Central , Rue de la Poste , for single gen- 
tlemen; Hotel de la Gare. — Pensions, see p. 230. 

Cafes. "Cafi du Lac (Munich beer), Bellevve, both on the quay; Cafi 
du Thi&tre; Brasserie du College. — Cercle du Liman, with reading-room 
and a large garden on the lake (open to strangers). — Casino -Restaurant, 
at Vevey -La -Tour. — Coindet, dealer in preserved meats, etc., Rue des 
Deux Marches. 

Lake Baths at the E. end of the town. 

Post and Telegraph Office, Place de TAncien Port. — Bankers : Geo. 
Glas, Rue du Le'man ; A. Cuinod Churchill, Place du Marche 21. 

Omnibus from the station to the hotels 20, box 10 c; to La Tour de 
Peilz 30, box 15 c. ; to Chexbres from the post-office 1 fr. (see p. 206). — 
Cab with one horse, per drive in the town l'/2, with two horses 2 fr.; 
i J2 hr. l'/2 or 2 fr., 1 hr. 3 or 4 fr., for every '/z hr. more 1 or IV2 fr. 

Electric Tramway from Vevey to Chillon every 10 min. from 6.30 a.m., 
in 59 min. (fares 10-60 c). Stations: Grand-Hdtel, Yevey-Gare, Ildtel du Lac, 
Villa Thamine, Maladeyre, Clarens, Vernex, Kursaal, Terrilet, and Chillon. 

Rowing-boats at the quay and the Grande Place, 1 fr. per hr.; with 
one rower 2, with two rowers 3fr. ; to Chillon 6 or 10 fr. ; to St. Gingolph 
(p. 246) same charges ; to Meillerie (p. 246) 12 or 15 fr. 

Bookseller. Benda, Hotel Monnet (also music, etc.). Pianos at Ratzen- 
berger's (also, at Montreux and Bex). — Theatre, Rue des Anciens Fosse's. 

English Church at the E. end of the town. 

Vevey (1263'), charmingly situated at the influx of the Veveyse, 
with 8144 inhab., is the second town in the Canton deVaud, and owes 
much of its repute to the writings of Rousseau. The quay of Vevey- 
Marche, and the turreted Chateau of M. Couvreu (beautiful garden 
with exotic plants, fee 1 fr.) overlook a great part of the scene of the 
l Nouvelle Helo'ise\ the 'burning pages' of which accurately describe 
it. To the E. La Tour de Peilz, Clarens, Montreux, and Chillon are 
visible ; next, Villeneuve and the mouth of the Rhone ; in the back- 
ground the Alps of the Valais, the jagged, snow-covered Dent du 
Midi, Mont Velan, and Mont Catogne (the 'Sugar-loaf); on the S. 
bank of the lake, the rocks of Meillerie, overshadowed by the Dent 
d'Oche ; and to the left, at the foot of the Grammont, St. Gingolph 



to Martigny. VEVEY. IV. Route 66. 229 

(p. 246). The Quais Sina and Perdonnet afford a beautiful walk, 
sheltered from the N. wind. The new Musee is a gift of Mme. 
Jenisch. Near the station are the Russian Chapel with its gilded 
dome and the Ecole des Jeunes Filles. At the E. end of the town 
are the pretty Roman Catholic Church and the English Church. 

The Church op St. Martin, erected in 1498, on a vine-clad 
hill ('Terrasse du Panorama! ) outside the town, surrounded by lime 
and chestnut-trees, commands a charming view (see the l Indicateur 
des Montagues'^. Service in summer only (organ-concerts). 

In this church repose the remains of the regicides Ludlow {'potestatis 
arbitrariae oppugnator acerrimus\ as the marble tablet records) and Brough- 
ton. The latter read the sentence to King Charles ('dignatus fuit senten- 
tiam regis regum profari, quam ob causam expulsus patria sua' is the in- 
scription on his monument). Charles II. on his restoration demanded the 
extradition of the refugees, a request with which the Swiss government 
firmly refused to comply. Ludlow's House, which stood at the E. end of the 
town, has been removed to make way for an addition to the Hotel du Lac. 
The original inscription chosen by himself, 'Omne solum forti palria\ was 
purchased and removed by one of his descendants. A new memorial tablet 
was erected in 1887 at the E. end of the quay. 

The tower among the trees on the lake farther on, the Tour de 
Peilz (Turris Peliana), said to have been built by Peter of Savoy in 
the 13th cent., was once the seat of a court of justice, and was 
afterwards used as a prison. The neighbouring chateau of M. Sarasin 
contains a collection of ancient weapons. 

The chateau of 'Hauteville, 2 M. to the N.E. of Vevey, with an 
admirably kept park, commands a beautiful view from the terrace and 
the temple. In the same direction, 2 M. higher, is the mediaeval chateau 
of Blonay, which has belonged the family of that name for centuries. The 
road from Hauteville to Blonay passes through the villages of St. Ligier 
(Pens. Beguin; Pens, des Alpes) and La Chiisaz, many houses in which 
are adorned with clever sketches by A. Beguin, a native of the place, now 
an artist in Paris. In returning , we may descend by a path to the right 
beyond the bridge to the carriage-road below, which leads to (1 M.) Chailly 
(see p. 230), (1 M.) the bridge of Tavel, below the Gh&leau des Crete* (see 
below), and p/4 M.) the Clarens station. — About 1 hr. to the N.E. of 
Blonay are the Pleiades (4488'), a famous point of view (auberge near the 
top), at the E. base of which, 3 / 4 hr. from the top, are the small sulphur- 
baths of UAlliaz (3428'; pens. 4-5 fr.). 

From Vevey to Freiburg, see R. 62. — Pleasant excursion to St. Oin- 
golph (p. 246; l l /2 hr. by boat), on foot to Novel, in the valley of theMorge, 
and thence to the top of the Blanchard (p. 246). Inns at St. Gingolph and 
Novel very poor; the traveller should bring provisions from Vevey. 

On the lake, 3!/2 M. from Vevey, lies the beautiful village of 
Clarens [English Church Service in winter), immortalised by 
Rousseau. On a height to the W. rises the *Chdteau des Crites, 
a favourite summer resort of Gambetta, with its pleasant grounds, 
and a beautiful view from the terrace (visitors admitted). Ad- 
joining it is a chestnut copse , called the 'Bosquet de Julie 7 . 
Rousseau's 'Bosquet', however , has long since disappeared, having 
been, according to Lord Byron, uprooted by the monks of St. Bernard 
to make way for their vineyards. Splendid view from above ClaTens, 
near the churchyard , and also from the terrace of the chateau of 
Chatelard (at Tavel, 1 / i hr. to the N.), which gives its name to the 



230 IV. Route 66. CLARENS. From Geneva 

"W. part of Montreux (p. 231). Between Clarens and Vernex is the 
new German Protestant Church, with its slender tower. Near the 
station is the imposing Ecole Primaire. 

Pensions (p. xviii) abound on this favourite S.E. bay of the Lake of 
Geneva. The best-known are here mentioned in their order from Vevey. 
Charges often raised in the busy season. 

At Vevey: "Hdt.-Pens. du Chdteau, see p. 228; Pens, du Panorama, at 
the back of the town, recommended to ladies; Pens. Maillard; "Hdtel et 
Pens. Mooser, at Chemenin, 10 min. above Vevey, charming view (6-10 fr.); 
Pens. Florentina. At St. Legier: Pens. Biguin. — At La Took de Peilz, near 
Vevey: "Pens. Comte; "Pent, des Alpes. 

Near Clarens, 'An Basset': "Hdt.-Pens. Ketlerer, sheltered (6-8 fr.); 
lake baths adjacent. This is the beginning of the region which, being shel- 
tered from the 'Bise' or bitter N. wind , is often recommended to persons 
with delicate lungs as a winter residence. The gay cluster of 22 villas 
near Clarens was built and fitted up by M. Dubochet of Paris (d. 1877), 
at a cost of 2'/2 million francs. They now belong to Mr. J. Guichard, and 
are let furnished for 3 months or upwards at rents varying from 4000 to 
8000 fr. per annum (apply to the 'regisseur', at Villa No. 6). — At Clarens: 
on the left, Beausite (Moser); on the right, "Pens. Verte-Rive (5-7 fr.); on 
the left, Pens. Sanssouci (5 fr.) ; on the right, "Hdtel Roth, with a garden 
on the lake. At the station : Hdt.-Pens. des Cretes (5-6 fr.) ; "Hdt.-Pens. du 
Ch&lelard (5-7 fr. ; good cuisine). — At Chaillt (1580'), 1 M. above the 
Clarens station, and about 300' above the lake, "Pens. Mury, with pleasant 
garden; Pens, la Colline. At Charnex, IV2 M. above Clarens, Hdt.-Pens. 
Dufour. — Between Clarens and Vernex: "Hdtel Roy, with pleasant garden; 
"Pens. Oermann; Clarenzia; "Lorius (three houses; 6 fr. and upwards), 
with fine garden. 

At Montreux- Vernex : On the left, "Cygne, R. & A. 31/2-6, B. H/2, D. 4, 
pens. 6-8 fr.; "Pens. Pilivet; on the right, "Monney {^feS'/ifa.), good cuisine; 
Beau-Sijour an Lac (adjoining which is a bath-house); Bon-Accueil (small); 
all on the lake ; "Hdt.-Pens. Suisse (b'fe fr.), on the left side of the road, 
with a garden on the lake; Beau-Lieu. At the station, "H6t.-Pens. Belle- 
vue (5V2-8 fr.); Hdtel de la Gare; Hdt. Victoria <fc Pens. Buret; Hdt.-Rest. 
Marguet. By the steamboat-pier, Hdt.-Restaurant Tonhalle, for single gentle- 
men, moderate. — Preserved meats, etc., sold by Miautis. Beer at the 
Tonhalle, Cafi des Alpes (both near the pier), and at Marguets. — Bazaar 
Wanner, with a good and varied stock. — Strangers' Enquiry Office at the 
College (ground-floor, to the right). — English Physician, Stewart Tidey, 
it. B., Villa Magnolias. — Chemists: Biihrer at Clarens; Engelmann at 
Territet. — Booksellers: Benda; Meyer, at Clarens. Reading-rooms at 
Benda's and Gotlslebens. 

In BoNrORT, on the Territet road (where the Kursaal is on the right, 
see p. 231; adm. 1 fr.; weekly subscription 3, monthly 10, quarterly 20fr.), 
on the lake, farther to the S.E. : on the right, Hot. du Leman; "Hdt.-Pens. 
des Palmiers; Pens, des Fougeres; on the left, "Hdt. de Paris; "Hdt. de France; 
"Hdtel National, with a terrace high above the lake, 6-9 fr. On the right, 
"Hdt.-Pens. Beaurivage (Spickner), "Hdt.-Pens. Breuer, both with gardens 
on the lake; "Hdt.-Pens. Bon-Port. The four last, l fa M. from the station, 
command a fine view. — In the village of Les Planches, V2 M. from the 
lake and the station: "Pens. Visinand, the oldest in Montreux; "Pent. 
Mooser (5-6 fr.), Biensis, and " Vautier (7-8 fr.), all with a fine view. 

At Territet (just E. of stat. Territet-Glion) : "Grand Hdtel <fc Hdt. des 
Alpes (pens. 7-15 fr.), an extensive establishment with handsome rooms, 
cold-water cure, and terraced grounds on the lake, with a fine view. "Hdtel 
Mont-Fleuvi, finely situated higher up (6-8 fr.). — Hdtel du Lac, moderate; 
"Hdtel d'Angleterre; to the right, "Pens. Mounoud (5-6 fr.); "Pens. Bound. 

At Veytaux: "Hdtel Bonivard, R., L., &. A. from 3fr. ; "Masson (5-7 fr.); 
Villa Clos-de-Grandchamp ; Hdt.-Pens. Chillon, near the castle. — Between 
Chillon and Villeneuve, the handsome "Hdtel Byron (6-9 fr.), finely sit- 
uated (omnibus from the Villeneuve station, p. 233). 



to Martigny. MONTREUX. IV. Route 66. 231 

At Glion (2254'; cable tramway, see below): *H6tel Righi-Vaudois (pens. 
8-12 fr.); "H6tel Victoria (872-IO fr.), both with beautiful gardens; -Hdtel 
du Midi, "Hdtel Olion (6 fr.) with garden, "Hdt. Bellevue, H6l.-Pens. du 
Pare (5 fr.). — Above Glion, "Qrand-H6t. de Caux (3B10'; see below). 

Most of these pensions receive passing travellers at hotel-charges, but 
in autumn they are generally full. At many other houses rooms with or 
without board may also be obtained. The Grape Cuee begins towards 
the end of September and lasts about a month. — Aigle (p. 234) and Bex 
(p. 235) are also pleasant resorts in early summer and in autumn. In 
the height of summer, when the heat on the lake and in the valley of 
the Ehone becomes overpowering, the pensions at Chateau d'Oex (p. 242), 
Ormont-Dessus (p. 240), Villars (p. 235), etc., are much frequented. 

English Chorch at Territet, daily services from Oct. to June, three 
services on Sun. during the whole year. Subscription library in the Parish 
Boom next the church. — Presbtterian Church at Montreux-Vernex, Rue 
de la Gare (serv. Sun. 10.30 a.m. and 4 p.m.; Chaplain Rev. William Milne). 

Clarens, Charnex, Vernex, Olion, Colonges, Veytaux, and the other 
villages which lie scattered about, partly on the lake and partly on 
the hill-side, are collectively called Montreux (pop. 10,696). The 
parish of Montreux, which extends to the Dent de Jaman, is divided 
into three parts, Le Chdtelard, Les Planches, and Veytaux, by the 
brook (Bate) of Montreux and the Verraye. The central point of the 
district is the village of Montreux-Vernex, on the lake, with a rail- 
way-station and steamboat-pier. About i / i M. from the S. end of it 
is the Kursaal, with pleasant grounds (adm. see p. 230) ; opposite 
is $he new Roman Catholic Church, in the Romanesque style. 
About 1/2 M. higher up, at the foot of the mountain, lies the vill- 
age Les Planches, separated from Sales, to the W., by the Baie de 
Montreux, which descends from the Gorge du Chaudron (p. 232) 
and is here spanned by the handsome *Pont de Montreux, 100' in 
height. Above Les Planches rises the quaint old Church of Montreux 
(recently restored), the shady terrace in front of which commands a 
superb and far-famed *View of the lake (mountain indicator). 

Excursions from Montreox (electric tramway from Chillon to Vevey, 
see p. 228). Chief excursion to *Glion and the *Rochers de Nate. To 
Glion (2254'; Hotels, see above) a cable-tramway (Chemin de l'er funiculaire') 
ascends in 9 min., starting from the Territet-Glion station on the Jura-Sim- 
plon Railway (21 trains daily; fare 1, return-ticket V/ifr.). The line, con- 
structed by Hr. Riggenbach on the same system as the Giessbach tram- 
way, but much steeper, is about 750 yds. long, the maximum gradient 
being 1 : l3/ 4 . At the top is a Buffet-Restaur., which commands a delightful 
survey of the upper end of the Lake of Geneva and the mountains enclos- 
ing it, with the snow-clad Dent du Midi in the centre. Pleasant way 
back through the Gorge du Chaudron (see below) to the village of Montreux 
in 1 hr. (enquire for beginning of path). 

'From Glion to Nate, 4i/2 M., rack-and-pinion railway in l'/4 hr. 
(fare from Territet to Naye and back 10 fr.). The station adjoins that of 
the 'Funiculaire' to the right. The line is carried beneath the houses of 
Glion by means of a tunnel, beyond which to the left we look down into 
the gorge of the Baie de Montreux (see above) ; on the opposite bank is 
the village of Sonzler and the reservoir of the Montreux electric works. 
We ascend gradually through meadows and pass over a viaduct, enjoying 
a fine view to the left of Montreux and the Lake of Geneva and of the 
large Hotel des Avants below us (p. 232). Ascending more rabidly, we 
pass through a cutting and the curved Tunnel de Tremblex (147 yds. in 
length) to the E. side of the ridge and the (l>/< M.) station of Caux (3457'; 
Buffet). Above, on the brow of the hill, is the 'Grand Hotel de Caux 



232 IV. Route 66. CHILLON. From Geneva 

(3610'; R. & L. from 3'/*, B. H/ 2 , Lunch 3, D. 5, board 5 fr.), commanding 
a splendid view of the lake and the Alps of Savoy and Valais. — We now 
skirt the head of the valley of the Verraye (to the right, the Rochers de 
Naye) and beyond the chalets of Sandys pass again to the N. side of the 
ridge, where the conical Bent de Jaman (6493') suddenly appears. The line 
ascends rapidly to the ridge between Jaman and Naye and passes through 
a tunnel (82 yds. long) to the (3 3 /4 M.) station of Jaman (5715') in the seques- 
tered Combe d^amont; to the left below us is the small Lac de Jaman (5144'). 
[The Bent de Jaman, a fine point of view, may be climbed hence by experts 
in IV2 hr.; see p. 242.] Farther on we are carried over a narrow arete, com- 
manding a view of the Lake of Geneva to the right and of the mountains 
of the Gruyere to the left. We then pass through the rocky wall of the 
Rochers de Naye by a tunnel 267 yds. in length and ascend round the 
uppermost valley to the (472 M.) station of Naye (6470'; new Hotel and 
Restaur.), 338' (10 min.) below the summit of the "Rochers de Naye (6808'J. 
The splendid view (Panorama 1 fr. 80 c.) commands the Bernese Alps (Wet- 
terhorn, Eiger, Stanch, Jungfrau, Finsteraarhorn), the Alps of the Canton 
de Vaud (Diablerets, Grand-Mreveran, Tour de Mayen and Tour d'Ai), part 
of the Valaisian (Grand Combin, Dent du Midi) and Savoyan Alps (Aiguille 
d'Argentiere, Aig. Verte) and the whole of the Lake of Geneva. 

To the *Gorge du Chaudron , a wooded ravine between Qlion and 
Sonzier, watered by the Bale de Montreux (p. 231). From the bridge of 
Montreux to the head of the gorge, and back, 1 hr., or returning by Glion 
2 hours. — Les Avants (3230' ; "H6tel des Avants, pens, in summer 6-12 fr., 
in winter 6-10 fr.), a charmingly situated health-resort for both summer and 
winter, lies l 3 /i hr's. drive from Montreux via Chamex and Chaulin (om- 
nibus from April 15th to Oct. 15th, from Montreux railway station at 9 
a.m., in l 3 /4 hr., returning at 4 p.m. in 3 /4 hr. ; fares, up 3, down 2, return- 
ticket 4 fr. ; carriage with one horse 12 , with two horses 18 fr.). Les 
Avants may be reached on foot from Montreux via Sonzier (Maison Blanche, 
moderate) in IV2 hr. , or from Glion via the Gorge du Chaudron in 
l 3 /4 hr. From Les Avants to the top of Mont Cubli (3525'), with charm- 
ing view, lhr.; Dent de Jaman (6165'), via the Col de Jaman (p. 242), 2 l lihis.; 
etc. — By Chamex and Chaulin to the Bains de VAUiaz and the Pliiades 
(4488'), returning by Blonay (p. 229), 8 hrs. — By Aigle to the Ormonts, see 
R. 67. — To Villars, see p. 235. — To the Pissevache and Gorges du.Trient 
(p. 238) by railway, and back, in one day. 

Stat. Territet-Chillon (*H6t. des Alpes, etc. ; see p. 230"). The 
*Castle of Cbillon, with its massive walls and towers, 3 / 4 M. from 
the pier ( 3 / 4 M. from stat. Territet- Glion ; i/ 4 M. from stat. Vey- 
taux-Ohillon), stands on an isolated rock 22 yds. from the bank, 
with which it is connected by a bridge, but the strait is now dry. 
'Chillon ! thy prison is a holy place, 
And thy sad floor an altar, — for 'twas trod, 
Until his very steps have left a trace, 
Worn, as if the cold pavement were a sod, 
By Bonivard ! — may none those marks efface, 
For they appeal from tyranny to God. 1 
The author of these beautiful lines has invested this spot with 
much of the interest which attaches to it, but it is an error to identify 
Bonivard, the victim to the tyranny of the Duke of Savoy, and confined by 
him in these gloomy dungeons for six years , with Byron's 'Prisoner of 
Chillon' (composed by him in the Anchor Inn at Ouchy in 1817). The author 
calls his poem a fable, and when he composed it he was not aware of the 
history of Bonivard , or he would, as he himself states, have attempted to 
dignify the subject by an endeavour to celebrate his courage and virtue. 
Francis Bonivard was born in 1496. He was the son of Louis Bonivard, Lord 
of Lune, and at the age of sixteen inherited from his uncle the rich priory 
of St. Victor , close to the walls of Geneva. The Duke of Savoy having at- 
tacked the republic of Geneva, Bonivard warmly espoused its cause, and 
thereby incurred the relentless hostility of the Duke , who caused him to 



to Mattigny. VILLENEUVE. IV. Route 66. 233 

be seized and imprisoned in the castle of Grol^e, where he remained two 
years. On regaining his liberty he returned to his priory , but in 1528 he 
was again in arms against those who had seized his ecclesiastical revenues. 
The city of Geneva supplied him with munitions of war, in return for which 
Bonivard parted with his birthright, the revenues of which were applied by 
the Genevese to the support of the city hospital. He was afterwards em- 
ployed in the service of the republic, but in 1530 when travelling between 
Moudon and Lausanne fell into the power of his old enemy, the Duke oi 
Savoy, who confined him in the castle of Chillon. In 1536 he was liberated 
by the Bernese and Genevese forces under Nbgelin, and returning to the 
republic, he spent the rest of his life as a highly respected citizen. He died 
in 1570 at the age of 74 years. 

Above the entrance (fee) are the arms of the Canton de Vaud. 
The rooms with their old wooden ceilings , the dungeons with 
their pillars and arches, and the other reminiscences of the time of 
the dukes of Savoy are interesting. A fine effect is produced by 
the beams of the setting sun streaming through the narrow loopholes 
into these sombre precincts. Among the names on the pillars are 
those of Byron, Eugene Sue, George Sand, and Victor Hugo. 

It is an historical fact that in 830 Louis le Debonnaire imprisoned 
the Abbot Wala of Corvey, who had instigated his sons to rebellion, in 
a castle from which only the sky, the Alps, and Lake Leman were visible 
(Perlz , Monum. ii. p. 556); this could have been no other than the 
Castle of Chillon. Count Peter of Savoy improved and fortified the castle 
in the 13th cent., and it now stands much as he left it. The strong 
pillars in the vaults are in the early-Komanesque style, and belonged to the 
original edifice. The Counts of Savoy frequently resided in the castle, 
and it was subsequently converted into a state-prison. Since 1798 it has 
been used as a military arsenal. 

Between Chillon and Villeneuve , on the slope of the hill , is 
the handsome Hotel Byron (p. 231). The He de Faix, an islet 30 
paces long and 20 wide, ^3 M. to the "W. of Villeneuve, and */4 M. 
from the S. bank, commanding a fine view, was laid out and planted 
with three elms by a lady a century ago, and recalls Byron's lines : — 
'And then there was a little isle, 
Which in my very face did smile, 
The only one in view.' 

In the E. bay of the lake, l 1 ^ M. from Chillon, lies Villeneuve 
(*H6t. du Port; */?<3t. de Ville), a small walled town, the Pennilucus, 
or Penneloci of the Romans. The 'Clos des Moines' is a good wine 
grown here. (Railway-station, see below.) 

Footpath to Montbovon (p. 241) over the Col de la Tiniere (5340') in 
4>/ 2 hrs., to Chateau d'CEx (p. 242) in 6 hrs. 

Railway Joub.net. Geneva, see p. 209. The train runs high 
above the lake, overlooking the hills on the E. bank with their num- 
erous villas, above which rises the long ridge of the Voirons and 
in clear weather Mont Blanc. 2 1 / 2 M. Chambesy ; iM. Oenthod- 
Bellevue; 5 1/2 M. Versoix (p. 223); 8V2 M - Coppet (p. 223). At 
(11 M.) CelignytheDdle (p. 224) becomes visible to the left. Be- 
yond (1472 M.) Nyon (p. 223) the line skirts Prangins with its 
chateau, and then quits the bank of the lake. 

The tract of country between the Promenthouse, which the train 
crosses near (1772 M.) Oland, and the Aubonne (see below) is 



234 IV. Route 66. AIGLE. From Geneva 

called La Cote and is noted for its wine. 20 M. Gilly-Bursinel ■ 
211/2 M. Bolle (p. 224). The height to the left is the Signal d'e 
Bougy (2910'; p. 224), a splendid point of view, easily reached 
from Rolle or from the next station (25 M.) Aubonne-Allaman. 

The train crosses the Aubonne and returns to the lake. 28 M. 
St. Prex; the village lies on a promontory below, on the right. 
From (30'/ 2 M.) Morges (p. 225; station 8 min. from pier) Mont 
Blanc is seen in all its majesty in clear weather, but soon disap- 
pears. In the distance to the N.W., above the valley of the Morges, 
which the train crosses here, is the chateau of Vufflens (p. 225). 

The line again leaves the lake, crosses the Venoge, and joins 
the Neuchatel railway (p. 203). 35'/2 Renens. 

38 M. Lausanne (*H6t. Terminus 4 T Rail. Restaurant), see p. 225. 

The train (views on the right) skirts the lake the greater part of 
the way to Villeneuve. We cross the Paudeze by a handsome bridge 
(above which , to the left , is the lofty nine-arched viaduct of the 
Freiburg line, p. 206), pass through a short tunnel, and skirt the 
vine-elad slopes of La Vaux (p. 228). 42 M. Lutry. 

From (44 M.) Cully (p. 228) to (47 M.) Rivaz-St. Saphorin the 
train runs close to the lake, then quits it, and crosses the Veveyse. 
50 M. Vevey (p. 228); 50>/ 2 M. La Tour de Peilz (p. 229); 52 M. 
Burier; then a tunnel, beyond which we obtain a fine view ofMon- 
treux, Chillon, and the E. bay of the lake. 53 M. Clarens (p. 230). 

54 M. Montreux - Vernex (p. 231), beyond which we again 
approach the lake. 55 M. Territet-Olion (Cafe-Restaut, and small 
bazaar), immediately above the steamboat-pier of Territet-Chillon 
(p. 232), and the starting-point of the cable-tramway to Glion 
(p. 231). 551/2 M. Veytaux-Chillon (p. 231) is »/ 4 M. from the castle. 

57 M. Villeneuve, see p. 233. The train now enters the broad 
and somewhat marshy Rhone Valley , bounded by high mountains. 
The Rhone flows into the lake 3 M. to the W., near Bouveret. Its 
grey waters, the deposits of which have formed an extensive alluvial 
tract, present a marked contrast to the crystalline azure of the same 
river where it rushes through the bridges at Geneva. 

The first station in the Rhone Valley is (591/2 M.) Roche. 
Part of the mountain near Yvorne (1560'), to the left, was pre- 
cipitated on the village by an earthquake in 1584. Excellent wine is 
grown in the gorge ('Crosex-Grille ' and 'Maison Blanche' or 'Clos 
du Rocher'). To the right towers the jagged Dent du Midi (p. 247). 

63 M. Aigle. — 'Grand Hotel, 1 M. above Aigle in the valley of the 
Grande-Eau, with extensive grounds, suitable for a prolonged stay, E., L., & 
A. 3V2, B. I1/2, D. 4, pens. 6-10 fr. — ' Hot.-Pens. Beau-Site, at the station, 
with grounds; 'Victoria, with garden, moderate; Hot. du Midi and Hot. 
du Nord, both unpretending. — English Church Service at the Grand Hotel. 

Aigle (1375'; pop. 3555), a small town with a large chateau, 
is prettily situated on the turbulent Grande-Eau. 

The Planlour (1604'; p. 236), a hill 1/2 hr. to the E., with a tower 
(60' high) .of Roman origin and grounds, affords charming views of the 
Rhone Valley. 



to Martigny. BEX. IV. Route 66. 235 

Villaes, 3V4 hrs. E.of Aigle, 2V2 hrs. above Ollon (see below), a very 
favourite summer resort, lies on the hill-side, high above the right bank 
of the Rhone. It is best reached from Aigle (carr. 15, with two horses 
30 fr., down 25 fr., and fee; a drive of 3 hrs.; diligence daily at 3.30 p.m. 
in 4'/2 hrs., returning from Villars at 8.20 a.m. in 2 1 /i hrs.; fares 3 fr. 
75 c), as the hotel and other accommodation at Ollon is poor. High-road 
to (2 M.) Ollon (Hotel de "Ville, poor) ; thence a good road in numerous 
windings , with fine views. Pedestrians follow the Panex road , which 
diverges to the left immediately above Ollon. After 1 min., where the path 
divides, we follow that to the extreme right. At (40 min.) La Pousaz we 
take the path to the left, by the second fountain, in the middle of the vill- 
age; 35 min. Huemoz (3307'; pron. Wems by the natives), charmingly sit- 
uated ; 40 min. Chesieres (3970'; s H6tel du Chamossaire, moderate), with beau- 
tiful view ; 20 min. Villars (4166' ; "Hdt.-Pens. Breuer, R. & A. 2, B. ly 4 , 
D. 3'/2, S. 2'/2, pens. 7-9 fr. ; a little farther on, "Grand Hotel Muveran, 
patronized by French visitors , pens. 6-10 fr. ; "Bellevue. a little higher 
up, 6-8 fr.). Pleasant park-like environs, affording a variety of walks, with 
benches at all the best points of view and shady spots. The air is bracing 
but mild, and there is no N. or E. wind. Magnificent view of part of 
the Diablerets, the Grand and Petit Jtaveran, the Dent aux Favres, Tete 
Noire, Dent de Morales, the N. spurs of the Mont Blanc group with the 
Glacier de Trient, the Dent du Midi, Rhone valley, etc. The finest ex- 
cursion is the ascent (3 hrs.; guide unnecessary) of the "Chamossaire 
(6950'), which commands a most picturesque view of the Bernese Alps, 
the Weisshorn, the Diablerets, Grand Moeveran, Dent de Morcles, Mont 
Blanc, Dent du Midi, Valley of the Rhone, and Sepey. The route is by 
a cart-track nearly to Bretayes (1 hr. from the top), a little below which 
we ascend by a path to the left to the stone signal on the summit. — 
From Bretaye a tolerable path leads past the small lakes des Chalets, Noir, 
and "des Chavonnes, to (2 hrs.) La Forclaz (4144'), and crossing the Grande- 
Eau, to C/2 hr.), Le Sepey (p. 240). We may return to Villars the same 
day by carriage, via Aigle ; or the next day on foot by Au Pont, Plambuit, 
and Chesieres (see above). — Shorter excursions may be made from Villars 
to 0/4 hr.) Les Glosalets, a point commanding a fine view of the Rhone val- 
ley and of Mont Blanc ; to (2 hrs. ; horse 10 fr.) Panex or Plambuit via. Che- 
sieres and Les Ecovets ; to the (I74 hr.) Montagne de la Truehe (fine view) 
via. Chesieres ; etc. — From Villars to Ormonl-Dessus over the Col de la 
Croix (5687'), 4 hrs. ; guide (6 fr.) unnecessary, if the traveller is shown 
the beginning of the route (comp. p. 240). — From Villars by Arveye to 
Gryon (p. 243), 1 hr. ; to Les Plans fp. 236), 4 hrs. 

From Aigle a road leads by Tvorne (p. 234) to (2 hrs. ; one-horse 
carr. 8, two-horse 15 fr.) Corbeyrier (3235'; Hdt.-Pens. Dubuis, 5 fr.), a village 
in a sheltered situation, with fine views. The Signal 0/4 hr.) overlooks the 
Rhone Valley from St. Maurice to the Lake of Geneva; more extensive 
view, particularly of the Tour Sallieres and Dent du Midi, from the plateau 
of the Agittes (4997' ; road, ls/ 4 -2 hrs.). The Tour de Mayen (7620'), from 
Corbeyrier by the Alp Luan and Alp Ai in 3'/2-4 hrs., and the Tour d'Ai 
(7818'; 3'/2 hrs.) are attractive ascents (not difficult). 

From Aigle to Leysin (Grand Hotel, p. 240), road by Le Sepey in 
3'/2 hrs. (carriage in 3 hrs., with one horse 15 fr., two horses 25 fr.), direct 
footpath in 2V2-3 hrs. — Fkom Aigle to the Oemonts see (p. 240), one- 
horse carr. to Le Sepey 10, to Ormont-Dessus 15 fr. and fee of 1 fr. ; 
diligence to Le Sepey daily in 2'/4 hrs., to Ormont-Dessus in 5'/2 hrs. 

Between Aigle and (65 M.) Ollon-St. Triphon, on the left, rises 
the Plantour with its tower (p. 234). The village of St. Triphon 
lies on the S. slope of a hill, 1 M. from the railway; Ollon is on 
another hill, to the N.E. (Road to Villars 2 ] /2 hrs., see p. 235.) To 
the left tower the Grand Moeveran and the Dent de Morcles. 

68 M. Bex. — "Grand Hotel des Salines, with salt and other baths, 
and a well-equipped hydropathic establishment, in a fine sheltered situa- 
tion, 2 M. from the station, R., L., & A. 31/2-5, D. 4-5, pens. 6-12 fr. 



236 IV. Route 66. ST. MAURICE. From Geneva 

(in August the visitors are almost exclusively French); adjacent, "Hot.- 
Pens. Villa des Bains; in the village, "Grand Hotel des Bains; *H6t.- 
Pens. des Alpes, pens. 4'/a-5 fr. ; "Union, moderate; :: 'Hot.-Pens. du 
Crochet ; Hot. do Monde. At ChiUre near Bex : "Pens. Moesching, 4-4V2 fr. 
— English Church, opposite the Gr. Hot. des Bains. 

Bex (1427'; pop. 4420; pronounced Bay), charmingly situated, 
on the Avancon, and affording many beautiful walks , lies 8/4 M. 
from the station (omnibus 30 c). Bex is a favourite resort in spring; 
and in autumn it is f req uented by patients undergoing the 'grape-cure'. 

Fine view from Le Montet, a hill to the N. (72 hr.), from the BoSt, and 
from the Tour de Duin, a ruin on a wooded hill ( 3 /4 hr. to the S.E.). — The 
extensive salt-works of Divens and Bivieux, 3 M. to the N.E., reached by a 
shady road of gradual ascent, may be visited in half a day (guide 5 fr.). 
Visitors usually drive to Devens , see the salt-works, and then visit the 
mines, where the salt is obtained from the saline argillaceous slate by a 
process of soaking. Salt is also obtained from the salt-springs by evapor- 
ation. In the wood at the back of the salt-works are two huge erratic blocks. 

A road leads to the E. of Bex, on the left bank of the Avancon, to 
(3V2M.) Frenieres (2850'; Pens. Giroud) and (2 M.) Les Plans (3612'; "Pens, 
de V Argentine, D. 21/2 fr.; "Pens. Bernard, "Pent. Marletaz, 5-7 fr., these two 
unpretending; guides Philippe Marletaz, Charles and Jul. Veillon, Alexis 
Moreillon), in the sequestered Vallie des Plant, a good starting-point for 
excursions. Thus, to the Pont de Nant (41 10' ; Restaurant), with view of 
the glaciers of the Dent de Morcles, •/* hr. ; to the Croix de Javernaz 
(6910') 3 hrs.; to the Glacier de Plan-Nevi 3 hrs. ; ascent of the Argen- 
tine (79850 4 hrs.; 'Dent de Morcles (9775'), with an imposing view of 
the Mont Blanc chain and the Alps of the Valais, 7 hrs. via Nant and the 
Qlacier de Martinet (descent to Morcles, see p. 237, 3>/2 hrs.); THe a Pierre- 
Grept (9545') 7 hrs.; Grand- Mceveran (10,043'), by the Fre'te de Sailles (8527'; 
a pass to the Rhone Valley between the Grand and the Petit Mceveran), 
7 hrs.; to Anzeindaz (p. 244) over the Col des Essets (6690') 4 hrs.; etc. 

From Bex to ffryore, and over the Pas de Cheville to Sion, see K. 69. 

To Chesiires and Villars (by Divens, 3 hrs.), see p. 235. 

The train crosses the Avancon and the Rhone, joins the line on 
the S. bank (p. 248), and passes through a curved tunnel. 

71 M. St. Maurice (1377'; pop. 1666; Hotel-Pens. Grisogono, in 
connection with the Rail. Restaurant ; Ecu du Valais ; Hot. d°,s Alpes 
moderate ; Hot. de la Dent du Midi, plain), a picturesque old town 
with narrow streets, on a delta between the river and the cliffs, the 
Roman Agaunum, is said to derive its name from St. Maurice, the 
commander of the Theban legion, who is said to have suffered 
martyrdom here with his companions in 302 (near the Chapelle de 
Ve"roilley, p. 237). The abbey, probably the most ancient on this 
side of the Alps , supposed to have been founded at the end of 
the 4th cent, by St. Theodore, is now occupied by Augustinian 
monks, and contains some interesting old works of art (shown by 
special permission only) : a vase of Saracenic workmanship, a cro- 
zier in gold, a chalice of agate, Queen Bertha's chalice, and a rich 
MS. of the Gospels, said to have been presented to the abbey by 
Charlemagne. On the walls of the churchyard and on the tower of 
the venerable abbey-church are Roman inscriptions. — To the W. of 
the station , halfway up an apparently inaccessible precipice , is 
perched the hermitage of Notre - Dame - du - Sex (sax, i.e. rock), to 
which a narrow path has been hewn in the rock. Farther to the N., 



to Martigny. VBRNAYAZ. IV. Route 66. 237 

above the mouth of the tunnel , halfway up the hill , is the Orotte 
aux Fees, an interesting stalactite cavern with a lake and a waterfall 
(Y4 hr. from the station ; tickets and guides at the old chateau). 

Travellers descending the valley change carriages at St. Maurice for 
Bonveret, where steamers (far preferable in fine weather) correspond 
with the trains. Comp. pp. 221, 244. 

The Baths of Lavey (1377'; 'Betel, D. 31/2, S. 2^4, omnibus >/ 4 fr.), 
l>/2 M. above St. Maurice, are much frequented. The warm spring (100° 
Fahr.), first discovered in 1831, impregnated with sulphur and common salt, 
rises in a wooden pump-room, 5 min. from the hotel. — A narrow road 
(one-horse carr. If fr.) ascends through wood in zigzags, to the E. of 
the baths, to (2 l /2 hrs.) Morcles (3822' ; Pens. Gheseaux; guides Ch. Guillat 
and Jul. Cheseaux), prettily situated at the foot of the Dent de Morcles. 
Ascent of the Croix de Javernaz (6910'; fine view from the top) from Morcles 
via Planhaul in 2 3 /4 hrs. (descent to Les Plans, see above); of the Dent de 
Morcles (9775'), 5'/2 hrs. (see above) ; bed of hay if required on the Baut de 
Morcles (5740'), l'/2 hr. from Morcles. 

Beyond St. Maurice, on the right, is the Chapelle de Veroilley, 
with rude frescoes. Opposite, on the right bank, are the Baths of 
Lavey (see above). The line approaches the Rhone, and passes the 
spot where huge mud-streams from the Dent du Midi inundated 
the valley in 1835, covering it with rocks and debris. 

75 M. Evionnaz occupies the site of Epaunum, a town which 
was destroyed by a similar mud-stream in 563. Before us rises the 
broad snow-clad Grand Combin (p. 289). Near the hamlet of La 
Balmaz railway and road skirt a projecting rock close to the Rhone. 
On the right is the *Pissevache, a beautiful cascade of the Salanfe 
(p. 248), which here falls into the Rhone Valley from a height of 230' 
( 3 /4 M. from Vernayaz ; best light in the forenoon). A path ascends 
on the right side, and passes behind the waterfall (adm. 1 fr.). 

77 M. Vernayaz (1535' ; *6r.-H6t. des Gorges du Trient, 1/2 M. 
from the station , finely situated at the entrance of the Gorge, 
1st class, R., L., & A. 5, D. 5 fr. — Hot. des Alpes, R. 2*/ 2 fr. ; 
Hot. de la Poste , plain ; Hot. de la Gare at the station , with 
Restaurant, moderate), the starting-point of the routes to Chamonix 
via, Salvan (p. 274) and via, Gueuroz (p. 274; guide to the Tete-Noire 
or Chatelard 6, Chamonix 12, Cascade du Dalley 4 fr.). 

On the right , beyond Vernayaz , we observe the bare rocks at 
the mouth of the *Gorges du Trient, which may be ascended for 
Y2 M. by means of a wooden gallery attached to the rocks above the 
torrent. Tickets (1 fr.) at the Gr.-H6t. des Gorges du Trient. 

The view at the entrance to the gorge is imposing. The rocks, here about 
420" high , approach each other so closely at every turn , that the gorge 
almost resembles a huge vaulted cavern. Where the path crosses the 
Trient for the second time, the stream is said to be 40' deep; at the end 
of the gallery it forms a waterfall, 30" high. The gorge (inaccessible farther 
np) is 7'/2 M. long, extending almost to the Hotel de la T§te-Noire (p. 273), 
from which its entrance is visible. 

To the left of the entrance to the Gorges a path ascends to the (25 min.) 
*H6tel det Alpes at Gueuroz (2205'), commanding a beautiful view of the 
Khone valley, the Grand Combin, Dent de Morcles , etc. (Hence to the 
Tete-Noire, see p. 274.) 

Near Martigny, at the right angle which the Rhone valley here 



238 IV. Route 66. MARTIGNY. 

forms , on a hill to the right, stands La Batiaz (1985*), a castle of 
the bishops of Sion, erected in 1260, and dismantled in 1518. The 
tower (ascent from the Drance bridge in i / i hr., adm. 30 c.) com- 
mands a splendid view of the Rhone Valley and its environs. — The 
train crosses the Drance (p. 287). 

81 M. Martigny. — 'Hotel Clekc, R., L., & A. 4'/z, D. 5fr. ; 
'Hotel du Montblanc, R.. L., & A. 3>/2-4V2, D. 4 fr. ; — Aigle, second 
class, well spoken of, R. l^-Q fr.; Grand St. Bernard, Hotel-Restaurant 
de la Gare (mediocre), the two last at the station, 1/2 M. from the town. 

Martigny- Ville (1560'; pop. 1552), the Roman Octodurus, is a 
busy little town in summer, being the starting-point of the routes 
over the Great St. Bernard to Aosta (R. 78), over the Tete-Noire and 
Col de Balme (RR. 74, 75) to Chamonix, and for the Val de Bagnes 
(R. 79). In the market-place , which is planted with trees , is a 
bronze bust of Liberty by Courbet. A large Roman building has re- 
cently been excavated at Martigny. — Above Martigny, on the road 
to the Great St. Bernard, lies (1 M.) Martigny -Bourg (Trois Couron- 
nes, good 'Coquempey' wine), the vineyards of which yield excellent 
wine {Coquempey and Lamarque, both known to the Romans). 

Excursions. Near Branson, on the right bank of the Rhone, 3 M. to 
the N.E. of Martigny, is the rocky hill of Les Follaterres, famed for its flora. 

Ascent of the Arpille (6830 1 ; 4-5 hrs. , with guide). The bridle-path 
ascends beyond La Batiaz (p. 237) through vineyards to the hamlet of 
Sow/met des Vignes; then past the hamlets of Ravoire, through wood, to 
the chalets of Arpille (5965 1 ) and the summit. Superb view. Descent to 
the S., through wood, in 1 hr. to the Col de la Forclaz (p. 273). 

The *Pierre-a-Voir (8123'), a peak of the limestone range which separates 
the Rhone Valley from the valley of the Drance, is ascended from Mar- 
tigny, the Baths of Saxon (p. 295), Sembrancher (p. 288), or Chable (p. 293). 
From Martigny a bridle-path, 6 hrs. (guide 8, mule 10 fr.). From the Col, 
\/i hr. below the summit, the descent to Saxon may be made rapidly, but 
not very pleasantly on a sledge in l-D/2 hr., or on foot in 3 hours. Beauti- 
ful view of the Valaisian and Bernese Alps, of the Rhone, Entremont, and 
Bagnes valleys, and the glacier of Gietroz (p. 294). 

"Gorges du Durnant (3-4 hrs. from Martigny, there and back), see p. 287. 

67. From Saanen to Aigle over the Col de Pillon. 

32 M. Diligence from Saanen to Aigle daily in 91/3 hrs. (from Aigle to 
Saanen 8 hrs.) ; 11 fr. 15, banquette 14 fr. 95 c. From Saanen to Gsteig 
8 M. ; Ormont-Dessus 9 M. ; Sepey 71/2 M. ; Aigle 7'/2 M. One-horse carr. 
from Saanen to Gsteig 8, two-horse 15 fr., to Ormont-Dessus 20 and 38, to 
Aigle 40 and 70 fr. and fee ; from Thun, see p. 142. 

Saanen (3382 r ), p. 192. The road leads to the S. through the 
broad and smiling Osteig-Thal to Ebnit and (13/ 4 M.) Gstad (3455'; 
Bar), at the mouth of the Lauenenthal. 

A road ascends on the right bank of the Lauibach, crossing the Tur- 
bach after '/« M -i to (4 M> ) Lauenen (4130'; Bar, rustic), the chief place 
in the valley, beautifully situated. The picturesque Lauenen-See (4557'), 
1 hr. higher up, is best surveyed from the Buhl, a hill on the E. side. 
To the S. the brooks descending from the Gelten and Dungel glaciers form 
fine waterfalls on both sides of the Eahnenschritthorn (9304'). — From Laue- 
nen to Lenk over the Triittlisberg, and to Gsteig by the Krinnen, see p. 189. 
Over the Gelten Pass (Col du Brozet, 9270') to Sion, to Zanfleuron (p. 239) 
8 hrs., with guide, toilsome. — The Wildhorn Club-hat (p. 1S9) is reached 
in 5 hrs. from Lauenen. 










Ou.rprOliirn 





.^rsvorne 
ClOLE 









k/^ tf&yvfit^^ 



Idlest 



'ItenmJitj 






nXT'V -ft. 



Oi^^-f^J'ftir^e^ 



"I 



SersHi 



.tiers (liws 






^aife 



2*#\ *|^(H1q|i/ ' _ * 



u>»Av 



BUM 






riait' 






Vt I. A.™ 

-ft/// /wye » i-i.Vaka/^ SffSouOk t, JJ -" . f"~ 



le Montet ^^f^FS 






Geograph-An stall von 



:K '\77V/a 

S' Maurice ^^••^■^■^"^■^■•^■^■■■^^^^^^^^^™ 



IbnfjL'Jfimt 




vnt Rouge *f' : %~Vj&"*Sjl»V/fc*t 



'yea Ovset 



RodemozS 



\-tallm, 



«H4 















^pffitrPOlen 



*■»**. 



3b 



ditDcmX \ 









' = aso7- fesSean aurora? nr joit'A* ■ 

'Ej&HrJlr ArpeVftWBk, 

/" Sanetschhorn ^f.. r SJ pBP-- 

feCerae 



Mrozet.- 



fejpiwfrv 





&HlillS&; 






Thorn 

. Iaichet 



SJWsrV - 



. JJg"! .J lj Wil . .. .11 ifflmriL ." ' "~ .... y^^tSa^SS^^I^WO^' J^aHarmence 



Fauige s~ 



BBS*!' 






)> 



VgltisA •JSfedeFilosw*- 



iCnniba.' 






MantaOmroere ,1 

• 2ffl3 / V 



KBI^^ ,^fc \*„ \ ..0(2/ •1)1 may • ^V 
/• ^ >L Wimamnis. SStmtsdej^r-^ 



i\ 



ktfoiftkis Ppo/.Ho(z« 



&;rj»7l 



Keor 



^jcrjy* 



scheii 



'/i^i^fessM 



-W^Rfrf 






\itrvtouje , 



' En||is"h.^BTes 



1:150000 



■ MartigiW'*" 



Kilometer 



Wagner fcDebes .Leipzig 



ORMONT-DESSUS. IV. Route 67. 239 

Gsteig, Fr. Chatelet (3937'; Ours, pens. 5-6 fr.), 6i/ 4 M. from 
Gstad, is finely situated. To the S. rise the Sanetschhorn (9665') 
and the Oldenhorn (10,250'). 

To Sion over the Sanetsch, 8'/2 hrs., attractive on the whole (guide 
13, horse 25 fr. ; experts may dispense with a guide in fine weather). The 
path crosses the Sarine, and ascends steeply through pastures, and after- 
wards in windings partly hewn in the rock, through the Rothengraben, 
to the (272 hrs.) dreary Kreuzboden (6565'); thence 1 hr. to the pass of the 
Sanetsch (7287'), on this side of which there is a cross (La Grande Croix). 
Descent (passing the large Zanflev/ron Glacier on the right) to the (Va hr.) 
Alp Zanfleuron (6775'; Hot. Sanetsch, plain), with fine view of the Alps of 
the Valais, whence the Oldenhorn (see below) may be ascended in 4 hrs., the 
Wildhorn, (p. 189) in 4'/2 hrs., the Sanetschhorn, or Montbrun (9665') in 5 hrs., 
and the Diableret (see below) in 6 hrs. (ascent of the latter easiest from this 
side). The Sublage (8973'), 2'/2 hrs. from the hotel, affords a magnificent 
view of the valleys and mountains of the S. Valais as far as Mont Blanc. 
Then by a winding path down to the Alp Glary (4920") and through the 
wild ravine of the Morge to the bold Pont Neuf, whence a road leads to 
(3 hrs.) Chandolin, and by Granois and Ormona to (l'/a hr.) Sion (p. 296). 
Ascent from Sion to the pass 6, descent thence to Gsteig 3 hrs. 

The new road here turns to the S.W., and ascends the valley of 
the Beuschbach through woods and pastures, in view of the preci- 
pices of the Oldenhom (see below) and the See Rouge (9767'), to 
(5 M.) the Col de Pillon (5085'), at the S. foot of the Palette (see 
below). In descending (passing the Cascade du Dard, above us on 
the left) we soon obtain a view of a valley bounded by fine wooded 
mountains, and thickly studded with houses and chalets known col- 
lectively as Ormont-Dessus. To the left is the rocky Creux de Champ, 
the base of the Diablerets , the numerous brooks falling from which 
form the Orande-Eau. "We first reach (3 M. from the Col) Le Plan 
(3815'; *H6tel des Diablerets, with baths, R., L., & A. 3V2> *>, 4, 
pens. 6-8 fr., opposite the post-station for Ormont-Dessus, English 
Church Service in summer ; *Pens. Bellevue, moderate ; Pens, du 
Moulin, Pens, du Chamois), and in ^2 br. more, past the prettily- 
situated *H6tel Pillon, Vers l'Eglise (3650'; Pens. Mon Sejour; 
Pens. Busset ; Hotel de VOurs, all unpretending), with the church 
of the upper part of the valley. 

Excursions from Le Plan. (Guides: Mollien, V. Gottraul, Fr. Bernet, 
Fr. and Moise Pichard.) To the Creux de Champ (4275'), a grand rocky 
basin at the N. base of the Diablerets, with waterfalls on every side, 
IV2 hr. (to the foot of the largest fall). A good survey of the Creux de 
Champ, the Oldenhorn, etc., is obtained from La Layaz (5340'), IV2 nr - s - °f 
Plan. — Ascent of the ''Palette (7133'; guide 5, horse 12 fr.), easy as far as 
the (2!/4 hrs.) chalets of Isenaux; thence, without path, and rather rough, 
s /i hr. more to the top; view of the Bernese Alps from the Diablerets to 
the Jungfrau and of the Dent du Midi to the S.W. ; at the N. base of the 
mountain lies the pretty Amen-See. Or we may ascend from the Col de 
Pillon in 11/2-2 hrs. , past the small Retlau-See. — Pointe de Meilleret 
(6404'), 2'/2 hrs. from Vers l'Eglise, not difficult; view extending to 
Mont Blanc. — Good walkers need no guide for any of these. 

The Oldenhorn (10,250'), Fr. Becca d'Audon, a superb point of view, is as- 
cended from Gsteig (7 hrs.), or from Le Plan (8 hrs.; guide 15 fr.). A 
steady head and sure foot necessary. Travellers from Ormont spend the 
night in the chalet of Pillon; those from Gsteig on the Upper Oldenalp. 

The Diableret (10,650'; 7 hrs.; guide 18 fr.), from the Hotel des Diab- 



240 IV. Route 67. LE SEPEY. 

lerets, difficult. Descent over the Zanfteuron Glacier to the Hit. Sanetsch 
(comp. p. 239). 

To Villars (4 hrs.), ok Gryon (41/2 hrs.) by the Col de la Cboix, a 
fine ronte (or over the Col de la Croix and the Chamossaire to Villars 
6V2 hrs); guide, 6 fr., not indispensable. From the Hotel des Diablerets we 
ascend the valley of the Grande-Eau for l'/< M-t and then enter a lateral 
valley by a bridle-path to the right (S.W.). After a somewhat steep ascent 
of l 3 /4 hr., with almost uninterrupted views of the Diablerets , we reach 
the Col de la Croix (5687'), 5 min. N. of the hamlet of La Croix. View lim- 
ited. (Travellers who do not ascend the Chamossaire should at least 
mount the pastures to the right of the Col de la Croix for 1 /2 hr. in order 
to obtain a fine view of Mont Blanc.) The path descends on the right 
bank of the Gryonne, and after IV4 hr. divides : to the left to Arveye 10 min.; 
to the right to Villars 20 min. (p. 235). — The path to Gryon descends to 
the left a little above Arveye , crosses the brook , and reaches Gryon in 
40 min. (p. 243). This route is preferable to a path to Gryon which crosses 
the Gryonne V'-s hr. from the pass and follows the left hank. 

Adjoining Ormont-Dessus are the houses of the lower part of the 
valley, known as Ormont-Dessous. About 4 1 / 2 M. from Vers l'Eglise 
the road joins that from Chateau d'Oex (p. 242); to the S. appears 
the Dent du Midi. iy 2 M. Le Sepey (3704'; Hot. des Alpes; Mont 
d'Or, well spoken of; Cerf, moderate; one-horse carr. to Plan 8fr., 
and fee of 2fr.), the chief village in the lower part of the valley. The 
clock here strikes each hour a second time after a minute's interval. 

Excursions. Pic de Chaussy (7798'), 4 1 /* hrs., not difficult (comp. p. 243). 
— Ascent of the "Chamossaire via Brelaye (372-4 hrs.), and descent to Villars 
(IV2 hr.), see p. 235. — A road, with fine views, leads from Sepey by Let 
Cretes to the lofty village of (2'/ 2 M.) Leysin (4150'; "Grand ffStel de 
Leysin, 650 1 above the village, in a sheltered situation, with splendid view 
towards the S., 120 R., pens. incl. E. 8-15 fr. ; "HStel du Mont-Blanc, pens, 
from 6 fr. ; "Pens. Cullaz, in the village). Pretty new walks near the hotel ; 
excursions to ( 3 /4 hr.) Prafondaz, with view of the Lake of Geneva, and 
to the Lac d'Ai, on the Tour d'Ai' (2 J /2 hrs., fatiguing). From Leysin to 
Aigle a good path, mostly through wood (l'/s hr., ascent 272-3 hrs.). — 
Footpath to (l'/2 hr.) Corbeyrier (p. 235). 

The road turns suddenly to the S.W. in a fine wooded valley. 
Far below, the Grande-Eau forms several falls ; to the left rises the 
Chamossaire (p. 235). Near Aigle we cross the Grande-Eau. 

Aigle, 7 M. from Sepey, see p. 234. 

68. From Bulle to Chateau d'CEx and Aigle. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 222, 238. 

4IV2 M. Diligence thrice daily to (17 M.) Chateau d'CEx in 3'/2 hrs. 
(5 fr. 70 c); thence to (21'/ 2 M.) Aigle daily in 51/3 hrs. (8 fr. 90 c). — Car- 
riage and pair from Bulle to Aigle in 7 hrs., 75-80 fr. 

Bulle (2487' ; pop. 2797 ; *H6t. des Alpes, near the station, R. 2, 
B. 1, D. 2V2 &. ; *Vnion ; Cheval Blanc; *H6tel de la Ville or Poste), 
a busy little town, the chief place of the Oruy'ere and the centre of 
the Freiburg dairy-farming district, is the terminus of the Romont 
and Bulle railway (p. 206). The environs consist of rich pasture- 
land, famed for Gray ere cheese and the melodious 'ranz des vaches'. 
The natives speak a Romanic dialect, known as 'Grue"rien'. 

On the slopes of the Mole'son, 2 M. to the 8. (carriage in 20 min. lie 
the sulphur-baths of Montbarry (2712'; "H6t. Montbarry. pens. 5-6 fr.; 



MONTBOVON. IV. Route 68. 241 

"Bdt.-Pens. du MoUson), commanding a charming view. Ascent of the Mole- 
son hence, 3-3V2 hrs. 

Ascent of the Moleson from Bulle, 4 hrs.; guide (8 fr.) unnecessary 
for the experienced. We follow the Chatel St. Denis road (see below) for 
3 /4 M., and diverge to the left by a saw-mill. The path gradually as- 
cends by the brook La Treme, which it crosses by a (20 min.) mill, to the 
(V2 hr.) red-roofed buildings of Part-Dieu, formerly a Carthusian monastery 
(3133'), and leads along the W. slope (guide-posts) of the mountain, cross- 
ing several brooks. We pass (V2 hr.) the Grot-Chalei-Neuf; (1 hr.) Qrot-Pla- 
nay (4855'; a rustic inn in a large pasture) ; ( 3 /4 hr.) the chalet of Bonne 
Fontaine (5945'). Thence by a steep path to the summit in V2 nr - more. 

The "Moleson (6578'), the Rigi of W. Switzerland, is a bold rock, preci- 
pitous on every side, surrounded with meadows and forests, which afford 
an excellent field for the botanist. The view embraces the Lake of Geneva, 
the Mts. of Savoy, the Dent d'Oche and Dent du Midi, and stretches to the 
Mont Blanc chain, of which the summit and the Aiguille Verte and Aiguille 
d'Argentiere are visible. To the left of the latter, nearer the foreground, 
rises the Dent de Morcles, the first peak of a chain which culminates 
in the Diablerets in the centre, and extends to the heights of Gruyere 
at our feet. The only visible peak of the Valaisian Alps is the Grand 
Combin, to the left of the Mont Blanc group. Most of the Bernese Alps 
are also concealed. To the extreme left, the Titlis. To the W. the Jura. 

Ascent of the Moleson from Albedve (see below ; 3'/2-4 hrs.). On 
the outskirts of the village the path crosses to the left bank of the brook, 
traverses pastures, enters a picturesque ravine, and follows a well-shaded 
slope to a small chapel and a saw-mill. Here we cross the stream , re- 
cross it at a charcoal-kiln , 1/2 hr. farther , and reach (5 min.) the first 
chalet. Towards the N.K.E. the ridge separating the Moleson from the 
Little Moleson is now visible. The path continues traceable to the vicinity 
of the highest chalet, which we leave on the left. Thence a somewhat 
fatiguing climb of l'/4 hr. to the arete, which is easily found, though 
there is no path, and to the summit, which rises before us, in 10 min. more. 

From Bulle through the Jaunthal to Boltigen in the Simmenthal, see 
p. 192. (Diligence in summer daily in 6'A hrs.) — From Bulle diligence 
every afternoon, by Vuadens, Faulruz (Hot. de la Ville), and Semsales, 
to (2'/2 hrs.) Chatel St. Denis (2670' ; H6t. de la Ville) , a small town 
prettily situated on the Veveyse. (The Moleson may be ascended hence, by 
the Alp Tremettaz , in 4 hrs.) From Chatel St. Denis a diligence plies 
thrice a day in 50 min. to the railway-station of PaUzieux (p. 206) ; another 
runs every morning in 1 hr. 40 min. to Vevey (p. 228). 

The road from Bulle to Chateau-d'GEx leads past ( 3 / 4 M. ) La 
Tour de Treme, with Its picturesque old tower, to (l 4 /2 M.) 
Epagny (2390' ; Croix Blanche ; one-horse carr. to Montbovon 7 fr.). 
On a steep rocky hill to the right lies the old town of Gruyeres 
(2723' ; *Fleur de Lys, plain), with a well-preserved old castle of 
the once powerful Counts of Grrayeres, who became extinct in the 
16th cent. , flanked with massive towers and walls, and now con- 
taining frescoes, a collection of old weapons, etc. (fee to attendant). 

We enter the pretty valley of the Sarine, or Saane. At (IV2 M.) 
Enney (2410') we observe the tooth-like Dent de Corjeon (6460') 
in the background; on the right are Les Vadalles (5207') , spurs 
of the Moleson. At the mouth of a ravine opposite (2V4 M.) Vil- 
lard-sous-Mont lies the large village of Grand- Villard (Hotel-'Pens.). 
Passing Neirivue, we next reach (1M.) Albeuve (2487'; *Ange, mod- 
erate; ascent of the Moleson, see above), cross the Hongrin (below, 
to the left, is a picturesque old bridge), and arrive at (3 M.)Mont- 
bovon (2608'; *H6t.-Pem. duJaman, moderate; horses and guides). 

Baedeker, Switzerland. 15th Edition. 10 



242 IV. Route 68. CHATEAU-D'CEX. 

From Montbovon over the Jaman to Montreux (6 hrs.), guide tin- 
necessary (8 fr.); horse to the top of the pass 15, to Lea Avants 20, to 
Montreux 25 fr. A most attractive walk; but the pass should be reached 
as early as possible, as the midday mists are apt to conceal the lake from 
view. — From the hotel we follow the road for 30 paces, and then ascend 
to the right; 25 min., we tnrn to the right by a house; 35 min., bridge 
over the Hongrin ; l /i hr., church of the scattered village of Allieres; l / t hr., 
Oroix Noire inn. (A direct route from Albeuve to this point follows the 
Montbovon road for V2 M., and diverges to the right by a path to Sciernet 
and Allieres, l 3 /4 hr. ; beyond Seiernes we take the path descending a little 
to the left.) 

The path now ascends gradually to the foot of the pass, then more 
rapidly over green pastures (not too much to the left), to the chalets of 
the Plan de Jaman, a little beyond the boundary between cantons Freiburg 
and Vaud, and the (IV2 hr.) 'Col de la Dent de Jaman (4974'). A most 
beautiful prospect is suddenly disclosed here, embracing the Rochers de 
Naye and the entire range to the S. as far as the Tour d'Ai, and to the 
N. as far as the Dent de Lys and the Moleson; also the rich Canton de 
Vaud, the S. part of the Jura chain, the long range of the Savoy Alps, 
the E. angle of the Lake of Geneva, and the huge Valaisian Mts. to the 
S. From the Dent de Jaman (6165'; fatiguing ascent of l'/4 hr. from the 
Col) the view is still more extensive (descent to station Jaman of the 
Glion and Naye railway, see p. 232). — The "Rochers de Naye (p. 232) may 
be reached from the col in 2hrs. 

From the pass to Montreux the path cannot be mistaken; 12 min. 
from the chalets it turns to the right (the path to the left, skirting the E. 
slope of the Baie, or brook of Montreux, being shorter but rough); 25 min., 
a bridge over the brook; then a slight descent by easy paths to the left 
at the division of the roads, to (V2 hr.) Les Avants (3230 1 ; p. 232). A road 
descends the W. slope of the valley. Where it trends to the W., 2 M. from 
Les Avants, at the beginning of the region of fruit-trees, we descend by a 
paved path to the left to (10 min.) Sonzier, and then rapidly to the left 
again to (V2 hr.) Montreux- Vernex (p. 231). 

The valley of the Sarine now turns to the E., and we enter a 
■wooded ravine, the stream flowing far below in a deep rocky chan- 
nel. In a wider part of the valley lies (274 M.) La Tine (Inn), with 
beautiful meadows. Farther on (2'/2 M.), on the opposite bank, is 
the pretty village of Rossiniere (*H6t.-Pens. Grand- Chalet, 5-6 fr.; 
Pens, de la Tour; Eng. Ch. Serv. in summer). At (l'^M.) LesMou- 
lins, the road to Aigle diverges to the right (see below). We cross the 
Sarine by the ( 3 / 4 M.) bridge of he Pre, and ascend to (1 M.) — 

18 M. Cb.Steau-d'(Ex. — *H6t. Beethod, in an open situation, R., 
L., & A. 3, D 3 fr., patronized by English visitors; "Ours, in the village, 
R., L., & A. 2V'2-3'/2 fr. ; H. de Ville; "Pens. Rosat, Briood, de la Che- 
neau, Martin, du Midi, Morier-Rosat, etc., pens, from 5 fr. — Turrian, 
confectioner, ices, also a few rooms, opposite Berthod. — English Church 
Service in summer. 

Chateau-d'Oex, Ger. Oesch (3498'; pop. 2691), is a scattered 
village and summer resort in a green valley. The church, situated 
on a hill, commands a good view. To the E. rise the jagged Bubli- 
horn (7570') and the Gumfluh (8068'). 

"Mont Cray (6795'), may be ascended from Chateau -d'CEx in 3 hrs. 
(guide desirable). The view embraces the Bernese and Valaisian Alps as 
far as Mont Blanc, and the lakes of Bienne and Neuchatel to the N. 

From Chateau-d'Oex to (2'/s hrs.) Saanen, see p. 192. 

From Chatbau-d'OEx to Aigle (23 M. ; diligence daily in 
5'/3 hrs.). The road diverges from the Bulle road at (13/ 4 M.) Les 



GRYON. IV. Route 69. 243 

Moulins (p. 242) to the left, and ascends the valley of the Tour- 
neresse (Vallee de VEtivaz) in long windings. (Walkers follow 
the old road, diverging at Le Pre, just beyond the Sarine bridge.) 
The road runs high above the valley, affording picturesque views of 
the profound rocky bed of the brook. At (3y 4 M.) Au-Devant the 
road enters a more open tract, and its continuation is seen on the 
mountain to the right, but it remains in the valley as far as (2 M.) 
VEtivaz (3865'), where it turns and quits the ravine. (Pedestrians 
avoid this long bend by a rough, stony path ascending to the right 
by a saw-mill in the valley, and rejoining the road considerably 
higher up.) From Etivaz (5 min. farther up, the *H6t. des Bains, 
with sulphureous springs) to the top of the hill (5070') 2 M.; then a 
slight descent to ( 3 / 4 M.) La Lecherette (4520' ; Inn). We next 
reach (1 l / t M.) Les Mosses (Inn) , where we have a splendid view 
of the Dent du Midi. The road now descends the valley of the Ra- 
verette to (2i/ 4 M.) La Comballaz (4476'; *Couronne, pens. 9 fr.), 
charmingly situated , and much frequented for its mineral spring 
and its pure air. {Pic de Chaussy, 7798', an easy ascent of 3 hrs.; 
see p. 240.) Beyond this the road overlooks a very picturesque 
basin, with the Diablerets and Oldenhorn in the background, and 
winds down to (3 M.) Le Sepey (p. 240) and (7 M.) Aigle (p. 234). 

69. From Bex to Sion. Pas de Cheville. 

Comp. Map, p. 238. 

12 hrs. From Bex to Gryon 7 51. (diligence daily in 3>/2 hrs., 2 fr. 
90 c; one-horse carr. 12 fr., descent 8fr.); then a bridle-path. Guide to 
Aven desirable (P. L. Amiguet, P. F. Broyon, and O. F. and Henri Aulet 
at Gryon: a guide may generally be found at Anzeindaz also; from Gryon 
to Sion 12 fr.). Horse 20 fr. — This route, cutting off the right angle formed 
by the Rhone Valley at Martigny, presents an almost continuous series of 
wild rocky landscapes, especially on the Valais (S.) side, and commands the 
Rhone Valley towards the end of the journey. 

Bex, p. 235. The road leads to the N. to Bevieux (p. 236), crosses 
the Avancon, and ascends in zigzags (which the old path cuts off), 
passing the villages of La Chine, Fenalet, and Aux Posses. Fine 
view of the Dent du Midi (p. 247). Near Gryon we obtain to the 
right a pleasing glimpse of the village of Frenieres and the falls of a 
branch of the Avancon, descending from the Valle"e des Plans (p. 236). 

7M. Gryon (3632'; Pens. Saussaz; Pens. Morel, pens, at both 
4'/ 2 -5fr.) is a considerable village in a picturesque situation (to Villars 
and Ormont-Dessus, see p. 240). 

Bridle Path. By the (10 min.) last house of Gryon we follow 
the path to the right, in view of the four peaks of the Diablerets, 
and skirt their steep S. slopes in the valley of the Avancon. 
On the right rise the Argentine (7985') and the Grand Mceveran 
(10,043'). Above the (1 hr.) chalets of Sergnement (A2A6') we cross 
the Avancon, and for a short distance traverse a pine-forest on 
the abrupt limestone slopes of the Argentine, which glitter like silver 
in the sunshine. Crossing the Avancon again, and passing the 

16* 



244 IV. Route 69. PAS DE CHEVILLE. 

( 3 / 4 hr.) chalets of Solalex (4810'), we ascend a stony slope in a long 
curve, and next reach the chalets of (lV^hr.) Anzeindaz (6220'; Inn 
•with 9 beds, open from the middle of July to Sept. only). To the 
S. lies the Glacier de Paneyrossaz, descending from the Tete a Pierre 
Grept (9545'), adjoined on the E. by the Tete du Gros- Jean (8567'). 
To the N. rise the rugged and riven limestone cliffs and peaks of 
the Diablerets (highest peak 10,650' ; ascent from this side difficult 
and dizzy; experts take 4 hrs. from Anzeindaz; comp. p.239). Our 
path now ascends gradually, to ( 3 / 4 hr.) the Pas de Cheville 
(6720'). In the distance to the E. are the Alps of Valais, over which 
towers the Weisshorn. The path now descends to the left, round 
the mountain, where a wall and gate mark the frontier of Valais, 
and over steep and stony slopes, past a waterfall, to the ( J / 2 hr.) 
Chalets de Cheville (5710'). Here we cross the brook, follow the slope 
to the right, and then descend in zigzags, passing the chalets of Der- 
borence (5213'), to (Y2 hr.) the Lac de Derborence (4698'), in a 
gloomy basin formed by a fall of rocks from the Diablerets in 1749. 
To the left, high above us, lies the large Zanfleuron Glacier (p. 239). 

We skirt the S. side of the lake, then cross ( 3 / 4 hr.) the Lizerne, 
follow the left bank, and, passing the chalets of Besson (4370'), 
descend into the Vol de Triquent, and skirt a wooded slope descend- 
ing steeply from the E. into the profound gorge of the Lizerne. 
The path, for the most part protected by a low stone wall, and quite 
safe, except that at certain times it is exposed to showers of stones, 
gradually descends to (l 3 / 4 hr.) the Chapelle St. Bernard (3530'), at 
the end of the Lizerne gorge, where an extensive view of the Rhone 
Valley is suddenly disclosed. We now descend to the left to (20 min.) 
Aven, surrounded by fruit-trees, follow the slope to (20 min.) Erde 
and (25 min.) St. Severin , a thriving village belonging to Conthey, 
one of the chief wine-growing villages in the Rhone Valley , which 
extends to the (l!/ 2 M.) bridge over the Morge. From this point by 
the high-road to (2i/ 4 M.) Sion, see p. 296. Instead of following 
the dusty road , we may cross the vine-clad hill of Muraz from St. 
Severin by a path commanding a fine view. 

A shorter route (shady in the afternoon) on the right bank of the 
Lizerne diverges to the right 5 min. before the Lizerne bridge (see above). 
It crosses de'bris at first, and is not easy to trace. Beyond the (10 min.) 
chalets of Mottelon, we ascend to the right and pass above the chalets 
of Servaplana (4075'; milk) to (1 hr.) those of VAirette. Then nearly 
level, with fine views of the Rhone Valley ; lastly a zigzag descent to 
(l'/ihr.) Ardon (Hotel du Pont), 1/2 M. from the station of that name (p. 296). 

70. From Geneva to St. Maurice via Bouveret. 
Lake of Geneva (South Bank). Val d'llliez. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 222, 258. 
Steamboat to Bouveret along the S. Bank 3 times dailv, in 4i/ 2 -5hrs. 
(fare 6 or 3 fr.). Stations : Cologny, La Belotte, Bellerive, Corsier, Anieres, 
Hermance, Tougues-Douvaine, Nernier,^ l'votre, Sciez, Anthy-Stchex, Thonon, 
AmpMon, and Evian. — Railway via Annemasse to (42 M.) Bouveret in 
2'/z hrs. (fares 8 fr. 30, 6 fr. 25, 4 fr. 55 c. ; comp. p. 252). 



THONON. IV. Route 70. 245 

Geneva, see p. 209. On leaving the quay the steamer affords a 
fine retrospect of the town with its numerous villas. It touches at 
Cologny (the village lying on the hill above, p. 221), La Belotte (for 
Vesenaz, p. 221), Bellerive (for Collonge, a little inland), Corsier, 
and Anieres. At Hermance (*Pens. Sinai; *Pens. Gillet, 5fr. ; Pens, 
du Colombier) the brook of that name falls into the lake, forming 
the boundary between the Canton of Geneva and Savoy (France). 
Then Tougues and Nemier, opposite which Nyon (p. 223) is con- 
spicuous on the N. bank. 

Beyond Yvoire with its ancient castle, situated on a promontory, 
the lake suddenly expands to its greatest width (S 1 ^ M.). The N. 
bank is now so distant that its villages are only distinguished in 
clear weather. A large bay opens to the S. , in which lies Excenevrex. 
The Savoy Mts. become more conspicuous. The next stations are 
Sciez and Anthy-Sechex. 

Thonon (1400'; pop. 5500; * 'Hotel de France, at the station; 
Hotel de I'Europe, on the terrace; Hotel du Midi; Balance; Ville de 
Geneve~), rising picturesquely from the lake, the ancient capital of 
the province of Chablais , possesses handsome buildings and a lofty 
terrace in the upper town, the site of a palace of the Dukes of Savoy 
which was destroyed by the Bernese in 1536. (Cable-tramway from 
the steamboat-quay in d.1/2 min.) 

Railway to Bellegarde, see p. 252. — To the S. of Thonon (3 M.) is 
the village of Les Allinges, commanded by a ruined castle (ascent '/^ nr -i 
fine view). 

From Thonon a road ascends the pretty Valley of the Drance by 
Le Biot and jS(. Jean d'Aulph (with ruins of a monastery) to (20 M.) a bridge 
which crosses the Drance opposite to Montriond, beyond which the road 
divides. The road to the right leads by Les Gets (3645') to (10 M.) Tan- 
inges (p. 262); that to the left to (3 M.) Morzine (Hotel des Alpes). From 
Morzine over the Col de Jotiplane or the Col de la Oolese to (4 hrs.) Sa- 
moens, see p. 262; over the Col de Coux to (5'/2hrs.) Ghampirtj, see p. 248; 
to the Baths of Morgin, see p. 247. 

The steamer next passes the ancient chateau of Bipaille, on the 
lake, a little to the N. of Thonon, once the seat of Duke Victor Ama- 
deus VIII. of Savoy. The long promontory round which the vessel 
now steers has been formed by the deposits of the Drance, which 
falls into the lake here. To the E. in the bay lie the baths of Amphion 
(Gr. Hot. des Bains), with a chalybeate spring, in a chestnut-grove. 

"We next touch at Evian-les-Bains (Grand Hotel des Bains, 
above the town; *Grand-H6t. d'Evian, with garden on the lake, 
high charges, II., L., & A. from 4 1 / 2 , D. 5 fr.; Hot. de Fonbonne, 
on the lake; Hot. de France; Hotel des Etrangers; Hot. du Nord; 
Restaurants at the Casino and Chateau Gothique, dear), a small town 
picturesquely situated (2913 inhab.), with a conspicuous church- 
tower. In the centre of the town is the Bath-house (water containing 
bicarbonate of soda), the terraced garden behind which affords a 
beautiful view. At the end of the pleasant lake promenade is the 
Casino, with a theatre and a garden on the lake. — Railway to 
Bouveret and Bellegarde, p. 252. 



246 IV. Route 70. BOUVERET. From Geneva 

On the lake, near station Tourronde-Lugrin, is the old chateau of 
Blonay with a park. Opposite lies Lausanne (p. 225), picturesquely 
situated on the hill-side ; more to the right is visible the lofty 
Paudeze viaduct, on the Freiburg Railway (p. 206). The hills of the 
S. bank, which the boat now skirts , become steeper and higher. 
In a romantic situation close to the lake is Meillerie, where, in 
Rousseau's 'Nouvelle He"lo'ise', St. Preux takes shelter at the house 
of Mme. Volmar. It was accessible from the lake only, until Napoleon I. 
made the Simplon road through the rocks. The railway is here car- 
ried through a tunnel. Beautiful view near Les Vallettes. 

St. Gingolph (* Hotel Suisse; Lion d'Or), on a promontory 
opposite Vevey (p. 228), belongs half to Savoy, and half to Valais, 
the boundary being the Morge , which flows through a deep ravine. 
The grotto of Viviers, with its springs, may be visited by boat. 

Interesting excursion, with fine views, up the ravine of the Morge and 
across the mountain to Port Valais (see below). We may extend our walk 
on the left bank of the Morge to (1V4 hr.) Novel (two poor inns), ascend 
the Blanchard (4642'; with guide, l 3 /4 hr. ; milk etc. to be had in a chalet 
near the top), and return by the right bank of the Morge through beautiful 
forest to St. Gingolph. — Ascent of the Dent d'Oche (7300') from Novel, 
interesting, 4-5 hrs. (with guide) ; the Qrammont (7145 1 ) 4 hrs. (with guide), 
also interesting. — To the E. of Novel a tolerable bridle-path leads round 
the W. and S. sides of the Grammont, and past the lakes of Lovenex and 
Taney, in 4V2 hrs. to Touvry (see below). 

Bouveret {Tour; Restaurant Chalet de la Foret, with extensive 
grounds) lies at the S.E. end of the Lake of Geneva, 3 / 4 M. to 
the S. W. of the mouth of the Rhone , which has converted the ad- 
joining land into a marsh. Its impetuous current , called la Bat- 
tagliere, may be traced for upwards of 1 M. in the lake. — Rail- 
way to Annemasse and Geneva and to Bellegarde, see p. 252. 

The Railway enters the Rhone Valley to the S.E. and follows 
the left bank. At the foot of a rocky hill to the right lies Port 
Valais, the Portus Vallesiae of the Romans, once on the lake, but 
now I72 M. inland. Near the defile of La Porte du Sex (1290'), 
which was anciently fortified, and formed the key to Canton Valais 
in this direction, the rock approaches so near the river as scarcely 
to leave room for the road. A wooden bridge crosses to Chessel on 
the right bank. To the right rises the Dent du Midi (p. 247). 

4 M. Vouvry (Poste), on the right, is the first station; beauti- 
ful view by the church (3 M. from the station of Roche, see p. 234). 
The Rhone is joined here by the Stockalper Canal, begun a century 
ago by a family of that name, but never finished. 

The ascent of the "Grammont (7145'; 5 hrs. ; guide not necessary for 
adepts) from Vouvry is very attractive and not difficult. A bridle-path 
(Bee above; horses at Vouvry) ascends via Miex to (3'/2 hrs.) Taney (rustic 
inn), at the W. end of Lac Taney; thence in l'/2hr. to the summit, which 
commands a magnificent view, ranging from Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn 
and the Jungfrau and over the Lake of Geneva. Steep descent to Novel 
(for adepts only, with guide), see above. 

The "Oornettes de Bise (8005' ; 6 hrs. ; guide not indispensable) may 
also be ascended without difficulty from Vouvry. The route ascends via 
Miex (see above) to the (3V2-4 hrs.) Col de Vernal, then crosses the ridge 



to St. Maurice. VAL D'lLLIEZ. IV. Route 70. 247 

to the P/4 hr.) chalet of La Challaz (hay-bed), about •/« hr. below the top, 
which commands a magnificent view. The descent may be made (with 
guide) to Lovenex or Taney (p. 246) , or (without guide) to La Chapelle, 
whence we may descend by a good road to the right to (5 hrs.) Evian, or 
ascend to the left via Chdtel and the Pas de Morgin to (2Vz-3 hrs.) Margin 
(see below). 

To the right are the villages of Vionnaz and Muraz at the foot 
of the hills. Opposite the former lies Yvorne (p. 234), to the 
right of which rise the Diablerets and the Oldenhorn. We next pass 
Colombey, with its nunneryfflne view). A suspension-bridge, 70yds. 
long, crosses the Rhone here to Ollon-St. Triphon (p. 235). 

10M. Monthey (1380'; * Croix d' Or; *Cerf, both moderate), with 
an old chateau and glass-works. In a chestnut-grove (guide advi- 
sable) 20 min. above it, among a number of boulders, is the huge 
Pierre-a-dzo, balanced on a point not exceeding a few square inches 
in area. 

To the S.W. of Monthey opens the "Val d'llliez, about 15 M. in length, 
remarkable for its fresh green pastures, picturesque scenery, and stalwart 
inhabitants. (Diligence from Monthey in summer twice daily in 3'/4hrs., 

2 fr. 90 c; one-horse carr. from Monthey to Troistorrents 6, two-horse 10, 
to Champery 10 & 20, to Morgins 12 & 24 fr. and fee.) Near Monthey the new 
road ascends on the left bank of the Vieze through vineyards, and afterwards 
for 2 M. through a chestnut-wood , in numerous windings (cut off by the 
old paved bridle-path, following the telegraph posts, the beginning of which 
had better be asked for at Monthey). Beautiful retrospect of the valley 
of the Rhone , Bex and Aigle, the Diablerets , and the Grand Mceveran. 
About 3/4 M. above Monthey the old path joins the road, which we now 
follow to the left where the telegraph-wires turn in that direction, and do 
not again quit. (The path to the right ascends to Morgin.) We next 
reach (I1/2 M.) the prettily situated village of Troistorrents (2500 1 ; Hotel- 
Pens. Troistorrents), with a good fountain near the church. (Here to the 
W. opens the Val de Morgin, in which lie the Baths of Morgin., 4405', 

3 hrs. from Monthey ; the chalybeate water is chiefly used for drinking ; 
'Grand Hotel, pens. 6-8 fr.) The road in the Val d'llliez gradually ascends, 
in view of the Dent du Midi all the way, to (2V2 M.) Val oVIlliez (3145'; 
Hot.-Pens. du Repos) and (2 M.) Champery (3450'; "Hotel de la Dent du 
Midi, R. 2, lunch 2V2, D. 31/2, pens. 6-8 fr. ; Hdtel des Alpes ; *E6t.-Pens. 
Berra; '-Croix Fidirale, R. {1/2, D. 2 fr. ; Pens, du Nord), the highest village 
in the valley, beautifully situated. 

Excursions from Champ£ky. (Guides, Maur. Caillet, the brothers 
Orenon, Ant. Clement, E. Joris, etc.) To the (20 min.) "Galleries, we de- 
scend to the Vieze and cross it, passing a saw-mill, to the passage con- 
structed along the sheer cliffs opposite the village, which commands a 
charming survey of the valley as far as Troistorrents (adm. 50 c ). — The 
Roc d^Ayerne (1 hr.) affords a good survey of the environs. — The'Culet(6448'; 
3 hrs.; guide 4 fr.) commands a splendid view, especially of the Dent du 
Midi. We follow the path to the Col de Coux (p. 248) for 3/4 hr., turn to 
the right by a small shrine where the path divides, pass a large chalet 
on the left, and another on the right, farther up ; then through pine-wood, 
and by a narrow path to the cross on the top. Frequent opportunities of 
asking the way. 

'"Dent du Midi (10,450' ; 7-8 hrs. ; guide 18, with a night at Bonaveau 20, 
with descent to Vernayaz 24 or 26 fr.). The previous night is spent in the 
chalets of (2 hrs.) Bonaveau (5103'; good quarters); thence by the Pas 
d'Encel, the Col de Clusanfe, and the Col des Paresseux to the summit 
5-6 hrs., the last 3 hrs. very fatiguing, but without danger to the sure- 
footed. Late in summer the path is almost free from snow, and there is 
no glacier to cross. The view of Mont Blanc and the Alps of the Valais 
and Bern is imposing; the background to the S. is formed by the Alps of 



248 IV. Route 70. COL DE COUX. 

Dauphine" and Piedmont; the Lake of Geneva is visible from Villeneuve 
to Vevey. We may descend to Salvan (5y« hrs.) ; at first a toilsome descent 
over debris to (3'/4 hrs.) the meagre pastures of the upper Salanfe Alp 
(6278 1 ; occupied in August only); then across the Alp and past the pic- 
turesque falls of the Salanfe by a steep and stony path to (IV2 hr.) Van 
d"en haut (milk), where we cross the Salanfe. A better path- now skirts 
the S. side of the valley (affording a view of Mont Blanc as the corner of 
the Col de la Matze is turned), and then descends to (1 hr.) Salvan. 

Tour Sallieres (10,587'; 9-10 hrs., guide 30 fr.; spend night at Bona- 
veau, see p. 247), a difficult and fatiguing ascent, crossing the Qlacier du 
Mont-Ruan. Superb view of Mont Blanc. Descent to Salvan, see p. 274. — 
Similar view from the Dents Blanches (9100'), ascended by the Barmaz 
Alp in 6 hrs., without danger for proficients (guide 15 fr.). 

Passes. From Champert to Samoens over the Cols de Coux 
and de la Golese, 6V2 hrs. ; guide (13 fr.) unnecessary. At the (3/« hr.) 
small shrine mentioned on p. 247, we keep to the left, and, passing several 
chalets and looking back on the imposing Dent du Midi, reach (2 hrs.) 
the Col de Coux (6310'; Inn), the frontier of Switzerland and Savoy, 
which towards the W. overlooks the valley of the Drance. The saddle to 
the left is the Col de la Golese. In descending, partly through wood, we 
avoid the paths leading to the right to Morzine (p. 245). On leaving the 
wood we see the continuation of the path bearing to the left to the (l>/2 hr.) 
Col de la Golese (5480' ; fine view). We descend past the chalets of Les 
Chavannes, leaving the hamlet of Les Allamans to the left, then by the 
valley of the Giffre, to (l 3 /4 hr.) Samoens (p. 262). A good road thence to 
(5 M.) Sixt (p. 263). 

From Champert to Sixt over the Col de Sagerou, 8-9 hrs., ar- 
duous, only for adepts (guide necessary, 18 fr.). From the Hotel de la 
Dent du Midi, we descend by a narrow road leading towards the head of 
the valley to a (20 min.) bridge, and beyond it, at (3 min.) the point 
where two brooks unite to form the Vieze, we cross another bridge, and 
avoid the path to the left. After 10 min. more we take the path to the 
left, ascending rapidly for 1 hr., and 10 min. from the top of the ascent 
reach the Chalets de Bonaveau (p. 247); thence we ascend gradually, 
skirting precipitous rocks, to the (40 min.) Pas oVEncel, where a little climb- 
ing is necessary (caution required). In 1 /t hr. more the path to the Col 
de Clusanfe diverges to the left (see below). Our route now ascends slowly 
over the pastures of the Clusanfe Alp, on the left bank of the brook, crosses 
the brook (','2 hr.), and then mounts a very steep path to the (1 hr.) Col 
de Sagerou (7917'), a sharp arete descending abruptly on both sides, be- 
tween the (r.) Denis Blanches (see above) and (1.) lit. Ruan (9995'; 3 hrs. 
from the pass; attractive). We descend thence to the ( 3 /4 hr.) chalets of 
Vogealles and (1/2 hr.) Borce, and along a sheer rocky slope into the 
(V2 hr.) valley of the Giffre. In l'/4 hr. we reach Nunt Bride, and in 
I1/4 hr. more Sixt (p. 263). 

From Champert to Vernataz over the Col de Clusanfe or Sezanfe 
(7940' ; 10-11 hrs.; with guide), fatiguing. Beyund the Pas d'Encel (see above) 
we ascend to the left to the col, between the Dent du Midi and the Tour 
Sallieres, and descend through the Salanfe Valley (see above) to Salvan 
and Vernayaz. — Or we may ascend to the right from the chalets of 
Salanfe, 1 hr. beyond the Col de Clusanfe, and cross the Col or Chieu 
d'Emaney (79600, lying between the Tour Sallieres and the Luisin (p. 274), 
to the valley of the Triege, Emaney, and (5-6 hrs.) Triquent (p. 274), or the 
Col d'Emaney and Col de Barberine (S136') to the valley of the Eau Noire, 
Barberine, and (7 hrs.) Valorcine (p. 272), or finally to the E. by the Col 
de Salanfe (7290') to OV2 hrs.) Emonnaz (p. 237). 

The train crosses the Vieze, which descends from the Val d'llliez, 
and at Massongex approaches the Rhone. At (14i/ 2 M.)<Sf. Maurice 
(p. 236) our line is joined by that of the right bank. 



V. SAVOY, THE VALAIS, AND THE ADJACENT 
ITALIAN ALPS. 



71. From Geneva via, Culoz and Aix-les-Bains to Oham- 
bery and back via Annecy '252 

Perte du Rhone. From Bellegarde to Bouveret, 252. — 
Excursions from Aix-les-Bains : Lac du Bourget ; Haute- 
Combe; Revard, etc., 254. — From Aix-les-Bains to 
Annecy, 254. — Excursions from Chambery. Dent du 
Nivolet, 255. — From Albertville to Moutiers and to 
Beaufort; to Contamines via the Col Joli, 256. — From 
Ugine to Sallanches or St. Gervais, 256. — Semnoz ; Par- 
melan; Tournette, 257. — From Annecy to Cluses via 
Grand Bornand and to Sallanches over the Col des 
Aravis, 258. 

72. From Geneva to Chamonix 258 

i. Via Cluses 258 

From Cluses to Taninges, 260. — Pointe Percee. St. Ger- 
vais-les-Bains, and over the Col de la Forclaz to Les 
Houches, 260. — Gorges de la Diosaz, 261. 
ii. ViS Sixt 261 

Pralaire; Mole; Pointe de Marcelly, 262. — Excursions 
from Sixt: Vallee du Fer aCheval; Fond de la Combe; 
Pointe de Tanneverge; Pointe Pelouse, 263. j — From 
Sixt to Chamonix over the Buet, 263. 

73. Ghamonix and Environs 264 

Mont Blanc, 269. — From Chamonix over the Col du 
Ge'ant to Courmayeur; Cols de Triolet, de Talefre, de 
Pierre-Joseph, des Hirondelles, de Miage, 270. 

74. From Chamonix to Martigny over the Tete-Noire, or 

to Vernayaz via, Triquent and Salvan 271 

Glacier d'Argentiere ; Col d'Argentiere ; Col du Char- 
donnet; Fenetre de Saleinaz; Col du Mont Dolent; Col 
des Grands Montets, etc., 272. — Gouffre de la Tete-Noire, 
273. — Cascade du Dalley; Luisin; Dent du Midi; Tour 
Sallieres. From Vernayaz to Chamonix via Gueuroz, 274. 

75. From Martigny to Chamonix. Col de Balme .... 275 

Glacier de Trient, 275. — From the Col de Balme to the 
Tete-Noire, 276. — To Orsieres over the Col du Tour, 276. 

76. From Chamonix to Courmayeur over the Col du Bon- 
homme and the Col de la Seigne. Tour du Mont Blanc. 277 

Col de Voza, 277. — Mont Joli; Cols du Mont Tondu 
and de Trelatete, 278. — From Chapieux to Pre -St. 
Didier over the Little St. Bernard, 279. — Col de Che'- 
couri; Mont de la Saxe; Pavilion du Mont-Fre'ty; Gr. 
Jorasses, 281. — From Courmayeur to Martigny over the 
Col Ferret, 281. 

77. From Courmayeur to Aosta and Ivrea 282 

Crammont. From Pre'-St. Didier to Bourg-St. Maurice 
over the Little St. Bernard. Mt. Valaisan, Belvedere, 
Lancebranlette, 282. — Becca di Nona ; Mont Emilius ; 
Mt. Fallere, 284, 285. — From Aosta to Zermatt over 
the Col de Valpelline. Mont Luseney. Passes from 
Valpellina to the Val St. Barthelemy, 285. 

78. From Martigny to Aosta. Great St. Bernard . . . 287 

Gorges du Durnant, 287. — Mont Chemin. Pas du Lens. 
From Martigny to Orsieres via Champex. Excursions 



16, 11 



250 SAVOY AND VALAIS. 



from the Lac de Champex and the Cabane d'Orny. Mont 
Brule 1 , 288. — Valsorey; Grand Combin; Mont Velan, 
289. — Chenaletta; Pointe des Lacerandes; Mont Mort. 
From St. Bernard's Hospice over the Col de Fenetre to 
Martigny, and over the Col Ferret to Courmayeur, 291. — 
Col de la Serena, 292. 

79. From Martigny to Aosta over the Col de Fenetre. Val 

de Bagnes 293 

Col de Sexblanc. Cabane de Panossiere ; Grand Combin ; 
Cols du Cret, de Sevreu , de Cleuson , and de Louvie, 
293. — Excursions from Mauvoisin and Chanrion. Mont 
Avril; Tour de Boussine; Grand Combin; Mont Blanc 
de Seilon ; Mont Pleureur, etc., 294. — From Chermontane 
to Bourg-St. Pierre over the Col du Sonadon or the Col 
des Maisons Blanches; to Liappey over the Cols de Seilon, 
de Breney, and de Vasevay ; to Valpellina over the Cols de 
Crete Seche, d'Otemma and de laKeuse dWrolla, 294, 295. 

80. From Martigny to Domodossola over the Simplon . . 295 

Col des Etablons, 296. — Mont Bonvin. Forest of Pfyn ; 
Illgraben, 297. — Belalp; Aletsch Glaciers; Sparrhorn ; 
over the Beich-Pass to the Lotschenthal, 298, 299. — 
Excursions from Berisal: Wasenhorn, Bettlihorn, and 
Bortelhorn; to Iselle via Alp Veglia; Passo Valtendra, 
300. — Schbuhorn; Monte Leone, 300. — From Simplon to 
Saas; Rossbodenjoch ; Laquinjoch; Sirvolten Pass; Si- 
meli Pass ; Gamser Joch ; Fletschhorn, 301. — From Gondo 
to Saas over the Zwischbergen Pass, 302. — From Domo 
d'Ossola over the Antrona Pass to Saas, and over the 
Antigine Pass to Mattmark, 303. 

81. From the Rhone Glacier to Brig. The Eggishorn . . 303 

Gerenthal. From Ulrichen to Airolo over the Nufenen 
Pass. Loffelhorn ; Blindenhorn, 304. — Eggishorn ; Mar- 
jelen-See; Concordia Hut, 305. — Gr. Aletschhorn; via 
the Lotschenlucke to Ried ; Riederalp and Rieder Furka. 
From the Riederalp tn Belalp and Morel, 306. — From 
Fiesch over the Albrun Pass to Baceno, or to the Tosa 
Falls; Binnenthal; Ofenhorn. From Fiesch to Baceno 
over the Geisspfad Pass or the Kriegalp Pass, and to 
Iselle over the Ritter Pass, 3C6, 307. 

82. From Ulrichen to Domo d'Ossola. Gries Pass. Falls 

of the Tosa. Val Formazza 308 

Monte Basodine. From the Tosa Falls to Airolo over 
the S. Giacomo Pass; to Bignasco over the Bocchetta di 
Val Maggia, 309. — From Andermatten to Cevio over 
the Criner Furka, 309. 

83. The S. Valleysof the Valais, between SionandTurtmann 
(Val d'He'rens, Val d'Anniviers, Turtmann Valley) . 310 
i. From Sion through the Val d'He'rens to Evolena, 

and over the Col de Torrent to the Val d'Anniviers 310 
Mayens de Sion, 310. — Val d Heremence ; Pic d'Arzinol, 
311. — Mt. del'Etoile. Excursions from Arolla: Lac Bleu 
de Lucel ; Mont Collon; Eveque; Pigno d' Arolla; Dents 
de Veisivi ; Aig. de la Za ; Dent Perroc ; Dent des Bouque- 
tins, 312. — Cols de Collon, de Za-de-Zan, and de Ried- 
matlen; Pas de Chevres ; Cols de Chermontane, de FEve- 
que, deBertol, du Mont l!rul< ! , and de Yalpelline, 312,313. 
— Ferpecle 5 Alp Bricolla. Dent Blanche; Grand Cornier 



SAVOY AND VALAIS. 251 



Cols du Grand Cornier, de laPointe de Bricolla, d'Herens, 
and des Bouquetins, 313, 314. — Sasseneire ; Pas de Lona ; 
Bees de Bosson. Col de Sorebois, 315. 
ii. From Sierre through the Val d'Anniviers to Zinal . 315 
From Sierre to St. Luc ; Illhorn. From Vissoye to the 
Hotel Weisshorn. Alp de l'Allee, 316. — Alp d'Arpitetta; 
Eoc de la Vache; Constantia Club-hut; Roc Noir; Pointe 
d'Arpitetta ; Besso;Pigno de l'Allee ; Bouquetin ; Diablons ; 
Grand Cornier; Zinal Rothhorn, Gabelhorn, 317. — Col 
de l'Allee; Col de Couronne; Triftjoch; Col Durand; 
Morning Pass; Schallijocb, 317, 318. — From Zinal to 
St. Luc, 318. 
iii. St. Luc. Bella Tola. Over the Pass du Bceuf (or 
the Meiden Pass) into the Turtmann Valley, and 
over the Augstbord Pass to the Valley of the Visp. . 318 
Col des Diablons ; Pas de la Forcletta. From Gruben to 
Turtmann. The Schwarzhorn, 319. — Jung Pass; Barr 
Pass; Brunneggjoch ; Biesjoch, 330. 

84. From Visp to Zermatt 320 

From Stalden to the Simplon over the Bistenen Pass, 
320. — Excursions from Zer